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Carpe diem

Most of the time, we at Restaurantarama are privy to would-be restaurateurs’ solemn oaths that they will be opening their new eateries “in late spring”—which means August—or that they’re “just waiting on the health inspector”—which means that the kitchen equipment will be delivered sometime next month.

Most of the time, we at Restaurantarama are privy to would-be restaurateurs’ solemn oaths that they will be opening their new eateries “in late spring”—which means August—or that they’re “just waiting on the health inspector”—which means that the kitchen equipment will be delivered sometime next month. (Unless it won’t.) In other words, opening a restaurant is a long road full of potholes. That’s why we were so amazed to hear Dan Herlong’s account of opening Thai Mex in Nellysford last July.


Dan and Ubon Herlong opened Thai Mex in Nellysford faster than you can say "curry and cumin."

Herlong and his wife, Ubon Herlong, were traveling through Nellysford from Falls Church, where they’d been living, to Florida, where they planned to move. “My wife got info from a friend of hers that this restaurant was available,” says Herlong, referring to the former Thai Dutch Exchange spot on Route 151. It was a Thursday when the pair decided to change their plans and take over the space. Then, says Herlong calmly, “We worked steadily until we opened up on Sunday.” He adds, “We had a fair attendance.”

Wow! That’s what we call grabbing life by the chiles.

Part of the reason the process was so quick, Herlong explains, is that they’d already had their menu developed, serving it at various festivals over the last 13 years. It’s strange that the same spot that once housed an odd combination of ethnic cuisines, one of which was Thai (the Thai Dutch Exchange) now hosts another odd combination of ethnic cuisines, one of which is Thai. In the Herlongs’ place, crispy duck battles it out with chalupas, and everybody wins. There are stir-fries with ginger and Thai basil…and then there are tamales, tacos and burritos. There’s a full bar too: Have a margarita with your green curry.

So far, says Herlong, things are “ticking right along” at the hybrid eatery, despite a slow Wintergreen season. Given the greater familiarity most people have with Mexican food as compared to Dutch, we predict this place has a better chance of survival than Eddie Keomahathai’s Thai-Dutch venture, which took off from his successful Thai ‘99 empire but lasted less than a year. (The Herlongs’ apparent chutzpah shouldn’t hurt, either.) Drop in for a bit of half-Thai, half-Mexican, all-American melting pot fun.

Good eggs

In the first week of ‘07, we noticed the Bluegrass Grill & Bakery on Second Street was closed for a minor facelift. The breakfast standby, owned by Jim and Lalah Simcoe, is one of those places that has earned a following (and mile-long lines on Saturday mornings) by doing things in its own serene, delicious way (for example, being closed on Sunday when the Simcoes could undoubtedly see those same mile-long lines, if they wanted). So we were glad to hear the changes were small: new carpet, some new kitchen gear and a more proper hanging for the place’s trademark quilt. “The dining hall’s quieter,” reports Jim. This means we’ll be able to more clearly hear ourselves groaning with delight as we down those biscuits.

Quick bites

Java Java has opened its new store on the Downtown Mall. The place has the look of Olde Virginia, like something you’d find on the UVA Lawn, and was quite empty when we visited on its second day of business. However, the established Java Java name (the original’s on Ivy Road) should help this place break into a crowded joe market on the Mall.

We also hear that a new sports bar called Rivals will open in the former Wolfie’s Smokehouse spot on Rio Road, and from Andreas Gaynor that he is now serving lunch at Kiki’s. The rumor mill, finally, tells us that Belmont will soon have a new barbecue joint across from La Taza. More details soon!

Got some restaurant scoop? Send tips to restaurantarama@c-ville.com or call 817-2749, Ext. 48

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