SECRET INGREDIENT
Tastemakers
Dried spices can sit on supermarket shelves for a long time, growing dimmer all the while—and how long has that cayenne been in your pantry? You know it’s supposed to be spicy, right? To perk up elderly spices, toast them briefly in the oven or fry them in oil at the beginning of cooking, Indian-style.
Most of the Mediterranean seasonings begin as leaves, including parsley, basil, oregano, thyme, and sage. They degrade very rapidly in dried form, but can be found fresh in most stores (or grown easily at home and dried in a cool, dark cupboard). The spices that start as seeds—mustard, coriander, fennel, cumin, peppercorns, and cardamom—can be purchased and stored whole and ground just before cooking.
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Throw some seeds and coarse salt in a mortar and get grinding with the pestle; the task is complete when your arm is tired. If you get your workouts at the gym, turn a coffee grinder into your spice mill, and chunk and grind some bread to clean it between uses (and to wow your friends with spiced breadcrumbs).
Finally, there are a few spices that are best not eaten; these should be used for flavor infusion (like bay leaves in tomato sauce, lemongrass in coconut rice, star anise in baked goods, kaffir lime leaves in tom yum). The conscientious chef removes these spices before her guests bite into them.
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If you’re restocking your spice shelf this spring, Bantry Bay Tea and Spice Company is headquartered right here in Charlottesville (bantrybayspice.com) and its retail-size jars are sold at Foods of All Nations and C’ville Market. Compared to commercially prepared spices, Bantry Bay’s goodies are vibrant in color and flavor and markedly fresher. In addition to standard spices, proprietor Pat Mullarney has exotic herbs such as zataar, ras el hanout, sumac, and a full line of nuts, dried fruit and teas.—L.R.
GET THIS GEAR
El molcajete y el tejolete
Traditional cuisines around the world rely on the daily grinding and cooking of various grains, nuts and spices. In Mexico, spice grinding is accomplished in un molcajete (volcanic rock mortar and matching pestle, or el tejolete). For the traditional heavy black tool (along with lighter weight ceramic and wooden models) visit the El Paso Tienda Latina (1221 E. Market St., 984-3040). Proprietor Imelda Huerta established the first tienda Latina in Charlottesville 13 years ago, and today offers sunny greetings and shelves full of Mexican products (don’t miss the handmade corn tortillas from Harrisonburg). Buen provecho!—Lisa Reeder
GREAT TASTES
Jambalaya
This Cajun classic, courtesy of The Virginian restaurant, makes enough spicy stew to keep you and your honey warm through winter’s last dregs.
8 oz. sliced boneless chicken breast
1/4 lb. andouille sausage, sliced 1/4" thick
6 large shrimp—21/25 ct.
3 oz. sliced green peppers
3 oz. sliced yellow onions
6 oz. pureed roma tomatoes
14 oz. cooked basmati rice
2 oz. sliced jalapeno peppers
1 tsp. cayenne pepper
Heat the chicken breast in a large sauté pan coated with a little olive oil. Once the chicken has cooked through, add the shrimp and andouille and heat until the shrimp turns pink. Add peppers, onions and jalapenos and sauté until the peppers are tender. Add rice, tomatoes, and cayenne and let simmer for five minutes. Serves two.