Hand off
“Where’s your best friends?” a chef instructor at cooking school used to chant; he referred to tongs (in the dominant hand) and a dry kitchen towel (in the other hand).
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The ideal set of tongs should be loose enough (in their action) so as not to cause hand cramping; the ‘teeth’ of the tong should be fluted (for traction) and click gently together. Longer tongs are best for sparing arm flesh in high-heat situations; shorter tongs are suited to tossing salads, flipping bacon, and pulling asparagus out of blanching water. For the best buy in tongs (just under $3 a pair), check out Charlottesville Restaurant Supply (984-3663).—Lisa Reeder
Sprout shout
What’s related to the garden lily, takes three to four years to be harvestable, may make your urine smell funny, and is a harbinger of spring? That’s right, the noble asparagus. We eat the slim, new shoots; if the plant is allowed to mature, it grows to 4′ and has ferny foliage and a crimson berry. Oddly enough, the thickest sprouts will be the most tender, while the thin “pencil” asparagus is crisp and crunchy.
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Some foods pair classically with les asperges—lemon, fresh farm egg, chervil, and aged cheese like Everona Piedmont. If you manage to be an early bird at the City Market over the next few weeks, you may get your hands on truly local asparagus; enjoy them steamed to preserve the unparalleled flavor. Otherwise, several stores carry regional asparagus grown in the sandy soils of Tidewater and should have them through the end of May. As for the smelly urine? Authorities have told me that some folks lack the enzyme that creates the telltale wee; my curiosity ends where another’s urine begins.—L.R.
Crema di Asparagi
This classic spring soup comes from Ristorante al Dente, soon to sprout in a new Ix Building location. Here’s to all that’s green and hopeful.
1/4 cup butter
2 cloves fresh garlic
1 bunch fresh asparagus, chopped
Salt and pepper
1 glass pinot grigio or other white wine
1 cup milk
1 qt. heavy cream
fresh grated parmigiano cheese
In a heavy saucepan, heat the butter over low heat and add whole cloves of garlic. Sauté garlic for about one minute. Add asparagus, salt and pepper (to taste) and sauté over medium-low heat for about five minutes. Add wine and stir until evaporated. Add milk and bring to a boil. Add heavy cream and allow to simmer until mixture thickens. Remove from heat and press the mixture through a strainer. Return to heat and bring to a soft boil. Serve hot with fresh grated parmigiano cheese. Garnish with a few stalks of fresh boiled or steamed asparagus if you like. Serves 3-4.