Virginia is for tomato lovers
If there were a seasonal state slogan, in late summer Virginia would be for tomato lovers. Can’t you see the heart on the t-shirt replaced with a hunky heirloom?
Hot, humid summers and acidic, red clay soil combine to produce a jungle of hairy vines and a staggering array of bulging, exploding fruit just bursting for the chance to be the star of your table. Tomatoes are native to South America but have been selectively bred and hybridized regionally in the U.S. since the early 1900s. Hybrid plants will be the most resistant to disease and pest pressure, and will consistently produce uniform fruit that is easy to handle.
 Heirloom tomatoes’ personality and flavor make them irresistible, especially when local farmers do such a magnificent job of cultivating and bringing them to market. |
In comparison, heirloom varieties can be quirky to cultivate and overly sensitive to harvest and transport because they have been bred for flavor and color (not necessarily for their willingness to travel). However, their personality and flavor make them irresistible, especially when local farmers do such a magnificent job of cultivating and bringing them to market. Recent favorites from the annual tomato tasting at Appalachia Star Farm in Nelson County were Cherokee Purple, Brandywine, Green Zebra and Striped German, plus the omnipotent Sun Gold cherry.—Lisa Reeder
Spaghetti with Fresh Tomatoes and Mozzarella
A hot-weather favorite from D’Ambola’s Restaurant.
1 lb. spaghetti
2-3 lbs. vine-ripe tomatoes, cored,
cut into 1/2" dice
2-3 Tbs. chopped fresh basil
1 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano
1/2 lb. fresh mozzarella, cut into 1/4" dice
1/2 lb. fresh Roma green beans,
or snow peas
2 cloves garlic (or more to taste),
minced or pressed through a garlic press
1/4-1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
to taste
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
red pepper flakes, optional
Blanch Roma beans or snow peas in salted boiling water for two to three minutes, until crisp but tender. Remove and place in an ice bath to stop the cooking and retain the color. Drain. Cut into thirds. Place tomatoes, basil, oregano, mozzarella, half the garlic, green beans, salt and black pepper to taste in a bowl large enough to accommodate these ingredients and spaghetti. Let this mixture sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or up to one hour.
Prepare spaghetti according to package directions, cooking it to just below the “al dente” stage. When pasta is two to three minutes from being done, heat olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Drain spaghetti, reserving 1/4 cup of cooking water. Add garlic to oil, sauté for 10 seconds, then add spaghetti, a sprinkling of salt and cook and toss for about one minute. Add more oil or cooking water so pasta has a loose sauce.
Place spaghetti on top of ingredients in bowl. Let sit for one or two minutes so the heat from the spaghetti heats the ingredients. Toss mixture, adding more salt and pepper to taste. Top each serving with more olive oil and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Pass the red pepper flakes for those who want a little more heat. Serves four.
Put it through the mill
What to do with that bumper crop of Roma tomatoes? Overwhelmed by heirlooms at the City Market? If you are thinking ahead to sunny flavors in February, make the time now to put away tomato product for winter. The gear of choice for processing tomatoes is the food mill; it will strain the seeds and skins out of your sauce after you make it, while also milling the flesh and any added savories and herbs into a smooth, soup-like texture. What else can the food mill do? Applesauce, soup, jams and jellies, riced potatoes (like mashing, but creates less starch and guarantees no lumps), baby food—and perfect spaetzle, milled right into the cookpot.
 food mill |
The food mill is a classic kitchen piece that does not require electricity, and can often be found at yard sales and junk shops (must be rust-free!). For a selection of new mills in various sizes, try the Happy Cook at Barracks Road Shopping Center (thehappycook.com; 977-2665).—L.R.