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Living

Straight from the source: The heart of Shark Mountain coffee and chocolate

In April 2013, Jonny Nuckols and his team of enthusiastic coffee gourmands opened Shark Mountain Coffee. Philippe Sommer, director of the University of Virginia’s Center for Entrepreneurial Leadership and the i.Lab at the Darden School of Business, had space for a café, and Nuckols, a former Burley Middle School math teacher-turned-entrepreneur, had an idea in line with the spirit of the i.Lab’s mission: “a nexus for entrepreneurship and innovation…[meant to inspire] deep cross-collaboration with no boundaries, across disciplines, schools or ways of thinking.”

“We will work towards forming collectives with other shops, feature other roasters’ coffees, create a customer co-op with a democratic voice and eventually a barista timeshare in which baristas from other shops and other cities can literally run the shop for a day,” Nuckols told a reporter a couple of days before opening at 621 Nash Dr., between the UVA School of Law and Darden. “We want to make coffee a craft akin to wine and beer, and Charlottesville a destination coffee city.”

Although the demands of the past three years of ownership have halted the co-op rhetoric, Nuckols and company certainly seem to be making good on the promise of spearheading a java renaissance.

A little more than two years ago Nuckols had an epiphany: Since Shark Mountain was already importing and roasting cocoa beans, and making its own syrups and sauces, why not up the ante, enlist a chocolatier and produce bean-to-bar chocolates as an accompaniment to the shop’s already thriving single-source coffee offerings?

“I realized the paths to making good coffee and good chocolate are similar,” says Nuckols. “They’re both complementary and challenging in their own way. …At first. I thought chocolate is more complex, there are certain things you have to do. There’s refining and tempering and a lot more chemistry involved. So I was a little hesitant to get into it.”

However, the allure of another foray into the realm of fine, artisanal craftsmanship drew Nuckols in, and for guidance he turned to baker-turned-chocolate-maker Christian Anderson.

Photo: Tom McGovern
Photo: Tom McGovern

“You know, it’s a very scientifically minded process,” says Anderson. “Whether it’s nutty, fruity, spicy or whatever kind of flavor tone the bean might have, we want to make sure that flavor is coming through as purely as possible.”

To retain this integrity of flavor, and in keeping with Shark Mountain’s ideology, the new line of bean-to-bar chocolates were likewise to consist entirely of single-source offerings.

“We aim to keep things simple,” says Nuckols. “We just use cocoa and sugar, so all the other flavors you taste are intrinsic to the bean and the process.”

But what about the single-origin distinction? What’s so important about it and what does it do for the chocolates?

Bryan Graham, founder of and chocolatier for Spokane, New York’s acclaimed Fruition Chocolate, told Wired magazine: “Finding a good chocolate bean is tricky and depends on quite a few factors. The genetics and geographic region in which they’re grown is extremely important. If you don’t have great beans, you won’t have great flavor.”

Thus, the Shark Mountain logic seems to run that, via securing a primo selection of regionally specific, genetically superior beans and steering clear of blending and the use of other seasoning agents, the integrity of the crop’s natural flavor will be retained. This focus results in a taste sensation not only truthful to the beans themselves but to the ecosystem that produced them.

“We create chocolate with superior, nuanced flavor for chocolate enthusiasts and taste-seekers alike,” says Nuckols. “Our hope is that, when a customer tries one of our offerings”—which include the geographically eponymous Madagascar Sambirano Valley, Trinidad San Juan Estates and Tanzania Kokoa Kimila, among others—“they’ll find our confidence justified.”

Shark Mountain products are available at a variety of shops in the area, including its coffee at Studio Ix and Grit Coffee locations, and its chocolate at Beer Run and Foods of All Nations.

–Eric J. Wallace

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News

Glass half-full: ABC suspends Escafé license for two weeks; beer and wine available

Escafé owner Todd Howard knew he was in trouble with the Virginia Department of Alcoholic Beverage Control, which requires at least 45 percent of his sales be in food. Unfortunately for Howard, Escafé is popular in Charlottesville as a bar, and last week he learned the penalty: For 15 days, he can’t sell cocktails, and he has to pay the ABC a $1,000 fine.

It could have been worse.

Originally he was looking at a 60-day suspension that was reduced to a still-devastating 30-day suspension if he paid a $2,500 fine. Howard appealed to the ABC Board in January and told it the impact such a penalty would have on his business.

The board considers statements from the licensee about why he disagrees with the initial decision, and when determining penalties, takes into account the licensee’s history, as well as penalty guidelines, says ABC spokesperson Kathleen Shaw in an e-mail.

Howard calls the board’s decision “quite generous, quite thoughtful.”

Escafé’s predicament is an example of how Virginia grapples in the 21st century with Prohibition-era regulations that don’t allow bars. “Obviously there are some flaws in the code,” says Howard. “Reform is necessary for two reasons.”

Since Virginia last amended its food/alcohol ratio in 1980, there are a lot more restaurants and choices, and Charlottesville is a very competitive market, says Howard. “It’s hard to make that ratio,” he says, with so many places selling food.

And for those who fear the presence of bars in the commonwealth, says Howard, “The news is that we already have them based on the choice of the public, and I think that’s appropriate.” He objects to the definition of a bar that’s from the temperance era. “We’re not a roadhouse. We’re a very clean operation. And you can’t justify calling a bar a nuisance just because it doesn’t sell enough food.”

A bill in the General Assembly attempts to reduce the food/alcohol ratio to 25 percent of sales. That bill, HB219, made it past its first hurdle, the subcommittee, before the General Laws committee continued it to 2017 on February 11.

When customers at Escafé have asked why they can’t get a cocktail during the ban, Howard explains Virginia’s food-alcohol ratio, and he says they respond, “In 2016? Really?”

Howard can still sell wine and beer, and he hopes customers will be in the mood for bubbly over the Valentine’s Day weekend. Escafé will be serving mixed drinks again February 23.

 

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Arts

ARTS Pick: Country Sweethearts

Take five of Virginia’s finest singer-songwriters, pair them with some of country music’s most poignant love (or lost-love) songs and put them onstage for the annual Country Sweethearts Valentine’s Day show. Be it single and looking, or fed up and freedom-bound, there’s no way to deny the pure passion that emanates from these authentic voices. Terri Allard, Holly Allen, Tara Mills, Ashley McMillen and Sarah White perform solo and together, confirming our faith in loving one another.

Saturday 2/13. $12-15, 8pm. The Southern Café and Music Hall, 103 S. First St. 977-5590.

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News

Truck catches fire, plow stolen

D&D Lawn Care got hit with a double whammy February 11 when one of its trucks caught fire and a snowplow attached to the truck was stolen.

The truck was traveling on U.S. 29 southbound near Fabrics Unlimited when it burst into flame Thursday morning. Seminole Trail Volunteer Fire Department was there within three minutes and extinguished the fire, says Jessica Dudley, office manager at D&D. A snowplow attached to the front of the truck had to be removed for towing, and before D&D could retrieve the $9,000 blade, it was swiped off the side of the road, she says.

At around 11:50am, a D&D supervisor saw an older white man with a gray beard removing the plow using a white utility truck with a boom and thought the man was someone sent by the company to retrieve the nine-foot Meyer blade, says Dudley.

“We lost an entire truck and the plow was stolen,” says Dudley. That means the Ruckersville-based business won’t be able to run a snowplow crew if it snows this weekend, she says. The company is offering a reward for information leading to the return of its plow, she says.  Anyone with information about the purloined plow should call Albemarle police at 296-5807.

Updated 1:32pm with Albemarle police phone number.

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Arts

ARTS Pick: Lovefest

The Beatles taught us that “All You Need is Love,” and they’re probably right. “The tricky part is how to get it, keep it, give it, know it,” says indie-folk songwriter Devon Sproule. Learn more at Lovefest, where Sproule and her friends Mira Stanley and Chuck Costa of The Sea The Sea play sets about love, as well as old favorites and some tunes from upcoming releases.

Sunday 2/14. $12-15, 8pm. The Southern Café and Music Hall, 103 S. First St. 977-5590.

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Arts

Album reviews: Cross Record, Sierra Hull, Trixie Whitley

Signature styles

Cross Record

Wabi-Sabi/Ba Da Bing Records

Emily Cross’ sophomore release is equal parts creepy, beautiful and utterly haunting. From the unusual opener, “The Curtains Part”—with its orchestral flourishes, off-kilter jazz horn, in-and-out ambient acoustic guitar and breathy, airy vocals—to “Wasp in a Jar”—with its plodding, thick-as-molasses bass and distorted electric guitar led by a steady cadence of a tambourine—this album is an engaging experience that is truly alternative. Where else are you going to hear everything from drum machines to the presence of a kalimba and a marimba? Or hear songs that one moment explore the depths of relationships, commitment, what we will do to protect them and how each differs from one another (“Two Rings”), and then liken the struggles of life to those of an insect (“Wasp in a Jar”)? Bright-eyed and energetic one moment, elegiac the next, Wabi-Sabi—a Japanese aesthetic that finds beauty in imperfection—is a diverse musical and emotional experience.

Sierra Hull

Weighted Mind/Rounder Records

The prodigious mandolinist is back with her third major-label release, and it’s killer. The title track is a sexy mix of bluegrass melodies, jazzy upright bass and vocals that sound more than a little vaudevillian, while the dreamlike mandolin ballad “Fallen Man” hits the other end of the spectrum, taking on a more solemn, mournful tone. Hull pulls no punches lyrically, filling this record with palpable tension. “Wings of the Dawn” is practically a church hymn, and “Birthday” immediately follows with lines about how unconditional love isn’t so unconditional anymore. Unsurprisingly, much of the narrative on Weighted Mind centers on someone who is dealing with a lot of emotional and personal situations as she tries to find her direction in life, as demonstrated by such titles as “Stranded,” “Compass” and “Choices and Changes,” and Hull approaches these moments with grace, courage and the occasional bit of wittiness to boot. She marries her internal struggles with gorgeous instrumentation throughout, making Weighted Mind a beautiful record.

Trixie Whitley

Porta Bohemica/Megaforce Records

After dazzling listeners with her left-of-center 2013 debut, Fourth Corner, Whitley’s long-awaited follow-up does not disappoint. “Salt” perhaps encapsulates the tone of the album best, and also gives listeners a sense of her vocal prowess. The track features dueling time signatures, a style that’s not quite rock and not quite ambient pop, and Whitley hitting the higher and lower registers with regularity. You truly never know what you’re going to get from her. The electric guitar on “Hourglass” incorporates a lively flamenco rhythm sensibility while the track as a whole is alternative rock via a ’60s era spy movie soundtrack. The midtempo synth rock of “New Frontiers” is paired to surprising effect with an anthemic, dramatic chorus about how Whitley’s going to find new frontiers, while the stirring closer, “The Visitor,” is a soulful, bluesy piano ballad with lyrics such as these: “I don’t need any more / Than what I give / I just want to be / With those who know secrets / Or else alone.” Porta Bohemica is an exotic, intoxicating release.

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News

Will the 9mm match? Bryan Silva goes to grand jury

 

In a preliminary hearing for Bryan Silva, the 25-year-old social media celebrity who starred in an hours-long police standoff January 3, was denied bond—again.

This time, his mother, Robin, was present to testify that she had no firearms at her Orange County home and Silva could come live with her if he were allowed out on bond.

Silva is charged with abduction and possession of a firearm by a convicted felon in his most recent arrest. Since 2009, he has been charged with assault, shoplifting or altering the prices of merchandise, destruction of property and possession of marijuana in Charlottesville and in Albemarle and Orange counties.

At the February 11 preliminary hearing, Assistant Commonwealth’s Attorney Joe Platania said police found a 9mm handgun in Silva’s house after the standoff and argued that it matched a gun Silva can be seen holding in his Facebook photos. Both the gun they found and the one in the photo had a LaserMax mounted onto it, which matched the description of what his 17-year-old girlfriend said he pointed at her that morning. Police found the LaserMax box, along with a pistol cleaning kit, in a desk drawer in Silva’s house.

Charlottesville Police Detective Lee Gibson testified that after Silva’s girlfriend called 911 on January 3 to report being held against her will and threatened with a gun, she gave police the Facebook photo of Silva holding the gun and said it was the same gun and laser he pointed at her.

Police arrived at Silva’s Jefferson Park Avenue home around 7am and Silva walked in and out of the front door several times while yelling at the officers, said Gibson. Soon after, they made phone contact with the local Internet celebrity, who was posting videos of the standoff to his thousands of followers but refused to exit the home. A SWAT team shot tear gas into the home, forcing Silva out around 3pm, and Gibson said he talked with Silva while other officers secured the home.

According to Gibson, Silva said a friend had left the gun in the house.

Silva’s attorney, John March, said several people had access to the home and in the bedroom where police found two live rounds of ammunition, not all materials belonged to Silva.

“I don’t think there is anything that puts the gun in possession of Mr. Silva,” March said. He also told the judge that Silva has been in solitary confinement ever since he’s been in prison.

Silva will appear in front of a grand jury February 16.

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Arts

Other-worldly: Live Arts’ play blurs the line between time and reality

In the art world, every overnight success will tell you there’s no such thing as overnight success. Playwright Sharr White knows this better than most.

“I’ve been very lucky that it only took me 25 years to get established as a playwright,” he says with a laugh. “When The Other Place was produced at MCC Theater Off-Broadway, with Laurie Metcalf acting and Joe Mantello directing, that was a huge break for me.”

The Other Place is arguably White’s highest-profile play to date, earning a Tony nomination for Metcalf and a number of awards, including the 2010 Playwrights First award, the 2011 Blanche and Irving Laurie Foundation’s Theatre Visions Fund award and an Outer Critics Circle award nomination for Outstanding New Off-Broadway Play.

Making its regional debut at Live Arts this month, The Other Place centers on a brilliant scientist named Juliana whose life is falling apart (think divorce filing, runaway daughter, terminal health scares). It’s a tightly crafted mystery, a first-person narrative that blurs the lines of truth, time and reality, and that’s about all you can say without spoiling the plot.

“I find that a lot of my plays become about people who are lost and on some very simple level are found or discovered or helped or saved,” White says. It’s a theme that bubbles near the surface of his own life, a reflection of his formative years as a struggling playwright.

“Strangely, it was when I committed myself to acting that I realized that I was a writer,” White says. After moving to New York City following his graduation as an actor from the American Conservatory Theater in San Francisco, he took the standard creative route, waiting tables to support his writing. But he didn’t anticipate the challenge of making it without formal training, a degree or a network of working peers.

“I really ran into some very, very difficult years,” he says. “When you go through a grad school program, especially in something like theater, which is so collaborative, you graduate with a lot of peers who are directors, who are actors, who are writers, who form your world. I didn’t really realize how difficult it was going to be not to have that peer group.”

He began doing a lot of self-producing, but by the time he turned 30, “I was still a waiter and I hadn’t had any major productions. I was writing all the time, but there was a long period in which I would write, I would finish a play, and I wouldn’t have anybody to send it to because I didn’t have representation,” he says. “Things got pretty dark.”

In an act of desperation, he sent an e-mail to all his friends asking if anyone could get him a job working as a copywriter. At a minimum, he figured, it was a corporate job that would allow him to work with language.

As luck would have it, a friend of a friend hired him to work as a writer for J. Crew catalogues. “Then I started developing this side career as a fashion advertising copywriter, which was sort of a bizarre world for me to be in. I didn’t have any corporate training at all,” he says.

But that connection with a steady paycheck, health insurance and stability meant he began a better life. He got married, had kids, and “I think as my life got better my writing got better because it was less angry,” he says.

These days, White no longer has a nine-to-five. Instead, he writes for the stage, for colleges, even for the Showtime series “The Affair.” But he ground it out as a corporate copywriter for 14 years. “I look at it as sort of a private corporate sponsorship of the arts,” he says. “It was a winning gig. I didn’t have to think about it when I got home. As a matter of fact, the hardest part about the job was concealing how much I didn’t care about it.”

In 2006, White had his first real break: the production of his play, Six Years, in the Humana Festival of New American Plays in Louisville, Kentucky. At the time, he says, “We had a newborn and I was writing in the hallway and getting up at six and then five, trying to beat everybody up. Not beat everybody up, like get back to life. You know? So I could get work done. I was exhausted.”

But instead of faulting his lack of sleep, he sees it as a litmus test. “The right piece takes you out of bed and forces you to sit down in front of it. It becomes something you can’t stop picking at until it becomes fully formed.”

White’s desire to scratch the artistic itch is how he determines whether he’s onto something. “I’ll have a catch, a sort of profound emotional reaction to something in the storytelling. That’s when I know.”

That emotional drive, White believes, is the mark of work that will truly resonate—for both the artist and the viewer.

“You have to know that you’re working towards catharsis,” he says. “It has to be cathartic for you as a writer or an artist or whatever medium you’re working in in order to know that it’s going to be cathartic for an audience.”

Ironically, his work on The Other Place began as a purely intellectual exercise.

“A friend of mine challenged me to write on the subject matter,” he says. “I don’t really care for the one-person format, and I felt certain that nobody would want to see a play about [this topic]. But I took it on as a challenge, thinking, ‘If I were to do this, how would it be done?’”

White layered the monologue with a Greek chorus of characters who appear across time and space, transporting Juliana in the process. Only after several months of work did he discover his own heart in the piece—where the story got personal.

“It’s a very hard thing for me to talk about,” he says, “but it really became a play about forgiveness. Self-forgiveness.”

As its title suggests, The Other Place centers where its characters aren’t. This notion of absence surfaces as the memory of a beloved beach house, a fractured mother-daughter relationship and the threat of adultery. While Juliana swoops between remorse, anger and fierce control, lack of clemency tugs like undertow.

Juliana needs catharsis whether she knows it or not. And, in that way, her life mirrors White’s at the outset of his career.

“I certainly wanted to be anywhere other than where I was,” he says. “At the end [of the play] there’s an act of caring committed by a perfect stranger. I think in certain dark hours in the very early stages of my career, yeah, I just wanted someone, anyone, to help. Very simple gestures can mean a lot, I think, to people in dire straits.”

On the long road to catharsis and creative success, perspective also helps. Looking back, White says, “You adjust your definition of success. You adjust a successful day. I think a successful day as a writer is any day when you can sit down and have half a page that really works. I think the bottom line is I’ve always been stuck on that.”

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News

Work at Wegmans

Wegmans, though still under construction at 5th Street Station, a retail center with almost half a million square feet of space, is currently hiring and training full-time employees.

The upscale grocery chain is on schedule to open this fall and will employ about 550 people, with current openings for 200 full-time employees. Part-time jobs will be available later this month, according to a release.

Available jobs range from entry-level management, customer service and culinary jobs, such as line cooks and restaurant servers. Apply online at or call 1-877-WEGMANS. Interviews will begin in March.

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News

Davis story airs on Valentine’s Day

A Crozet man who went to prison for nearly 13 years after making a false confession in a grisly murder is the subject of a “Dateline NBC” episode airing Sunday, February 14, at 7pm.

Robert Davis was 18 years old when he was named as an accomplice by siblings Rocky and Jessica Fugett, who were convicted in the February 19, 2003, slayings of Nola “Ann” Charles and her toddler son. After a six-hour, middle-of-the-night interview by a cop Davis thought of as a friend, Davis asked the fateful question, “What can I say I did to get me out of this?” Experts have called that interview a textbook case of false confession.

Because of the confession and the threat of the Fugetts’ testimony, Davis entered an Alford plea, in which he maintained his innocence but acknowledged the prosecution had enough evidence to convict him. He was sentenced to 23 years in prison. In the ensuing years, the Fugetts recanted, and on December 21, Governor Terry McAuliffe granted Davis a conditional pardon.

“Dateline” has been working on the story since 2012, when Davis’ lawyer, Steve Rosenfield, prepared a clemency petition to go to then-governor Bob McDonnell. “Dateline” reporter Keith Morrison was in town in January to film final interviews with Davis as a free man.

“I’m a little nervous,” says Davis. “I know it’s going to be emotional, and I’m trying to prepare myself for that.” He says he’s glad the episode is finally airing. “I hope it will help someone in the future,” he says.