Categories
Culture Living

Serendipit-cheese: Former local food scene standout Polina Chesnakova pens her first cookbook

Charlottesville lost a rising food industry star when Polina Chesnakova moved away in 2017.

The accomplished baker, chef, and blogger suffered a devastating car accident while driving to work at Greenwood Gourmet Grocery in December 2016. Most of the functionality in her left hand was gone after the crash, and she moved back to her childhood home to recover.

Charlottesville’s loss, though, may have been the wider food world’s gain. Chesnakova transitioned from cook to full-time writer after her accident, and she’s recently published her first cookbook, Hot Cheese. We spoke by phone with Chesnakova about her tome, time in C’ville, and next steps.

C-VILLE: Most folks in the Charlottesville food community know you as a baker. What’s up with a book on cheese?

PC: It all started when I graduated from UVA and started working at Feast!. That was my first intro to the world of artisan cheese. It was 2014, and they carried this magazine called Culture. When I moved back home, with all my injuries, I couldn’t take on a cooking job. Culture was hiring an intern for the fall.

It was through the internship that an editor at Chronicle Books found my work. They said, ‘Would you want to write a book on hot cheese?’ My dream has always been to write a cookbook and become a cookbook author. But hot cheese was not necessarily part of that.

At that point, you’d already started your blog, Chesnok, correct?

I started the blog even before working for Culture. I knew my journey was into the food world when I graduated, and I kind of knew I had something special with my Russian-Georgian heritage. That’s where my love of food and being in the kitchen started. I started the blog to share that food and heritage, and after the accident, it became my outlet.

So the book came to you?

Yeah. The next step was coming up with 50 to 55 recipes, not having tested any of them. That was one of the hardest parts—that and bringing them all to life. My khachapuri—Georgian cheesy bread—of course that was going to be in the book. I did a Philly cheesesteak with a Korean bulgogi marinade, and that is one of my favorites. We did a Midwest hotdish. I also had a lot of influence from France and Italy and Switzerland.

How does a first time cookbook author compete with all the established writers?

I draw upon my community to support me—who do I know to collaborate with and connect with? That’s how one’s following grows. The more you put out, the more you get back. That’s why I did this cookbook. It might not be the greatest work I will ever accomplish, but it is getting me there. I think everyone has their own path.

What do you miss most about the C’ville food scene?

It’s a small town, and that makes it easy to get together. For its size, there’s so much happening on the food scene, as well as music, culture, arts. Every night there was something happening. You can call up four or five different friends and have a wonderful night. You lose that in a big city. Looking back, most of my friends were in the food industry, where you have an eclectic mix of people. It makes the potlucks pretty interesting.

What’s next for you?

So, my first book ended up being on hot cheese. But I’m not stopping there. I’m working on a second book and getting back to my roots of baking with Piece of Cake.

Polina Chesnakova

Any last messages for C’ville foodies?

I miss everyone. It’s just a really special community that is living and supportive. I knew that before the accident, but afterward, the outpouring of support was just overwhelming. That’s something I will always carry in my heart.

Categories
Culture Living

Not-so-happy endings: The messy frustration of happy tail

“There’s blood on the ceiling,” says my frazzled client as her retriever thumps his massive tail against the wall in joyful appreciation of nothing in particular. The metronomic sound is only slightly muffled by a makeshift bandage cobbled together from a T-shirt and some masking tape. Spots of blood are soaked through the material and I can only imagine what her house looks like right now.

I don’t know of any official name for this phenomenon, but veterinarians often call it “happy tail,” a description that is simultaneously accurate and ironic. It can happen after any tail injury. Perhaps a bite wound, or maybe the tail got snagged on some thorns. Dogs—typically of a larger breed with a long, powerful tail—just can’t stop wagging it into things. It would heal if given the chance, but with every enthusiastic thwack, the situation worsens. The tail can become raw, swollen, and infected, and blood gets flung all over.

I’m often asked why dogs keep wagging their tail against things when it must hurt, and I honestly don’t know. I assume it’s like our inability to keep a straight face when something is funny. Some emotions are powerful enough to hijack our physical behavior, and dogs are intrinsically happy beings. They aren’t going to stop wagging, so we need to find a way to make it less traumatic.

This requires a padded bandage to protect wounds while they heal and to provide some shock absorption. These bandages can be a challenge to keep in place, and dogs often need to wear a “cone of shame” to keep them from chewing them off again. Depending on the extent of the damage, the bandages may need to be replaced frequently for a few weeks while everything heals up. For that reason, this approach works best when cases are caught early and can heal faster.

In some cases, the injuries are too great to heal properly. Other times, the tail heals well, but the dog keeps developing the condition again. In these instances, the best option may be to surgically remove enough of the tail to eliminate the damaged tissue and minimize the potential for recurrence.

This can be an emotionally challenging decision for owners to make, and understandably so. Tails are so expressive and endearing; they can almost seem like a physical manifestation of a dog’s personality. It is only after a great deal of consideration (and perhaps a few weekends of grisly house cleaning) that many people become comfortable with this outcome.

In my experience, these dogs are back to wagging their newly shortened tails as soon as they wake up from the procedure. And that shouldn’t be a surprise. Nothing ever stopped them from wagging before.

Dr. Mike Fietz is a small animal veterinarian at Georgetown Veterinary Hospital.  He received his veterinary degree from Cornell University in 2003 and has lived in Charlottesville since.

Categories
Arts Culture

Missed opportunity: Jon Stewart makes a disappointing return to political satire

This review contains mild spoilers, so if you prefer to avoid them, let your main takeaway be that Irresistible is an unfunny comedy, an uneven production, and a toothless satire with a message about as clarifying in the current political climate as a Check Engine light in a demolition derby.

The second film from writer-director Jon Stewart, Irresistible follows Democratic strategist Gary Zimmer (Steve Carell), who’s attempting to reconnect his party with the voters it lost in 2016. Battered by that defeat, he finds hope in Deerlaken, Wisconsin, the source of a viral video showing Marine Colonel Jack Hastings (Chris Cooper) standing up for the immigrant population of his hometown. Seeing an opportunity, Zimmer flies to Wisconsin, and convinces Colonel Hastings, aided by his daughter Diana (Mackenzie Davis), to run as a Democrat against Republican Mayor Braun (Brent Sexton). That campaign catches the eye of Zimmer’s nemesis, Republican strategist Faith Brewster (Rose Byrne). Soon, the town becomes a battleground for the soul of America, gaining national attention, and outside money.

The premise isn’t terribly original, but there’s room enough for a savvy storyteller to fill it with good characters, witty repartee, and a few choice jabs at worthy targets. Though the entire cast is talented, there’s precisely one notable character—Byrne’s Brewster—and almost no jokes worth remembering. Much of this stems from the film never figuring out how it wants to treat the audience. Are we in on the joke? Are we supposed to find it mind blowing that our political system is corrupt? There’s a broad tone that never gels with the inside baseball shenanigans, and the amount of effort Stewart exerts to avoid pandering is itself patronizing.

Even when satire doesn’t land, there’s always the possibility that the narrative might make things worthwhile. Sadly, it doesn’t. Zimmer is wholly unsympathetic, and the film isn’t mean enough to make him an antihero. Natasha Lyonne and Topher Grace appear as analysts who do mostly the same thing, but have contempt for the other’s methods. This ought to be a terrific pairing, and the two have excellent chemistry, but the material gives them little to work with. The funniest moments in Irresistible barely rise to a chuckle, and when they’re over, it’s back to the pointless stuff. The bigger gags are often years too late to be of worth anything, like CNN’s grid of far too many pundits at once, or Fox juxtaposing the Hastings campaign with Al Qaeda training footage. Might as well throw a Bill-Clinton-likes-McDonald’s reference in there while we’re at it.

Stewart’s tenure on “The Daily Show” is one of the greatest combinations of the right host with the right platform at the right time. He helped cut through the noise of the Bush years, emboldening those who felt disconnected and hopeless, pinpointing exactly how our institutions were failing us and how our discourse became fractured. He did it by being funny, and by being right. Over time, though Stewart remained as funny and intelligent as ever, a negative trend found its way into more episodes. Too often, he favored individual targets over broad analysis. As the topics became murkier, like the financial crisis, the show became less bully pulpit and more soapbox, less call to action and more preaching to the choir.

The post-credits sequence of Irresistible indicates that this film might have sprung from the latter sensibility. Stewart interviews Trevor Potter, former chairman of the Federal Election Commission, and the two discuss a key plot point of the film. Potter explains a legal loophole, Stewart explains it back to him, and the two laugh at its absurdity. That’s it. No strategy, no next steps. People watching this movie will either already know what a PAC is or be lost about what they’re supposed to do about it. Folks who do engage in these practices won’t be shamed out of doing so. It is no revelation that there’s money in politics, political strategists lie, and partisanship blinds us to the bigger picture.

It’s certainly not Stewart’s fault that American discourse devolved the way it did, and he could not have anticipated releasing the film during a global pandemic and nationwide rebellion. But his decision to return to political satire with Irresistible is disappointing. He’s funnier than this, he’s smarter than this. He’s affected real change, especially with his fierce advocacy for 9/11 first responders. For many years, he was the face of bold political comedy. So why is this project such a dud?

Stewart’s previous film, Rosewater, had a sense of purpose that carried it through any problems it might have had. He felt an obligation to the film’s subject—journalist Maziar Bahari, who was arrested and tortured in Iran after appearing on “The Daily Show”—and to the viewers. It appealed to our empathy, raising real questions about unintended consequences of our actions, and keeping hope alive no matter what. It’s hard to imagine why he felt the need to reemerge five years later to tell us what we already know. It’s a bit like the Rally to Restore Sanity and/or Fear. You can see the talent and respect the intentions, but why so much pageantry to say so little?

Irresistible

R, 102 minutes/Streaming (Amazon Prime)

Categories
Arts Culture

PICK: Maupintown Film Festival

Royal viewing: Queen is the theme of the 2020 Maupintown Film Festival, the annual showcase of narrative movies and documentaries by and about African Americans. It’s all online this year, and programming will honor the 100th anniversary of the passage of the 19th amendment, with a selection of women-centered films such
as Byrdland: From Being Property to Owning Property. Byrdland tells the story of the descendants of the five Byrd siblings, who, in 1865, pooled their money to buy land from their former slave owner in Albemarle County. Also showing is Little Forest Space, a dance installation celebrating the beauty of the local landscape, produced by two sisters.

Through 7/12. $20 for all access viewing. maupintownfilmfestival.com.

Categories
Arts Culture

PICK: Sharon Harrigan

Double take: Sharon Harrigan’s debut novel, Half, tells the story of identical twin sisters who are so close they can barely distinguish the boundary between their minds. In Harrigan’s poetically crafted prose, the women narrate as one, and, through the death of a father that towers over their lives, as two separate people. Dealing in grief, complicated family relationships, and magical realism, Harrigan presents a complex and emotional tale of intertwined lives. The author participates in a virtual discussion of her work with fellow author Kristen-Paige Madonia.

Saturday, 7/11. 7pm. Zoom required. ndbookshop.com.

Categories
Culture Living

PICK: Creature Builder Collective camps

Art smarts: Calling all Picasso, Harry Potter, and Bob the Builder fans who want to explore their creative potential at IX Art Park’s Creature Builder Collective camps. Dedicated teaching artists will engage imaginative 6-12-year-old minds in art workshops that offer everything from sculpture and painting, to puppet and stop-motion animation. Campers learn the technical skills of art, and have the freedom for thoughtful artistic expression. Themes include Dragon vs. Unicorn, Monster Makers, and Install-Ocean. Social distancing measures will be in place, with most days spent outside.

Through 8/14. $300, 9am-5pm, Monday-Friday. IX Art Park, ixartpark.org/education.

Categories
Arts Culture

Art emergence: McGuffey’s annual Incubator Studio show cracks open online

For fledgling artists, the Incubator Studio at McGuffey Art Center is an opportunity for growth. Each spring, renting artists Susan Northington and Eileen French select up-and-coming area talent to use the Incubator for a calendar year that runs from July to June, and ends with a group exhibition. “The studio has been set up to nurture and help grow these artists in their artistic practices,” says French.

This year’s show is titled “Cracked,” and like nearly all current gallery openings, it’s online due to the social distancing requirements necessary to control the spread of coronavirus.

French says the show reflects the artistic growth experienced during the artists’ time in the creative space. “At the end of an incubation period, the egg cracks open and the new life emerges,” she says. “So we felt that ‘Cracked’ was an apt title for their end-of-year show.”

The exhibition features the work of Piers Gelly, David Joo, Logan McConaughy, Lisa Philipps, Hannah ThomasClarke, and Abigail Wilson, and the artists chose their own submissions for the online gallery.

Gelly’s oil on canvas pieces are both vivid and intimate, especially “Confession,” which depicts two men in what appears to be a hushed conversation.

Piers Gelly, “Confession”

McConaughy’s multiple submissions become revelatory through their intricate, orderly patterns, described as the “interpretation of connections between neurons and the intersections between human intent and the energetic flow of our planet.”

In her ongoing project about endangered species, Philipps’ oil on canvas entries, such as “Last Call: Red Fox,” are bright and endearing, and gently balanced by monotypes that include large abstract florals, and a pair of lacy panties in black and white.

ThomasClarke uses embroidery to craft complex scenes that capture “the intersection between the expectations of traditional 1950s-era family dynamics and contemporary society.” “Dishwasher Chronicles” is a busy, thought-provoking caricature that twists and turns through domestic stereotypes.

Wilson’s unique interdependent style is based in symmathesy, exploring a natural order of connection using linoleum block prints, watercolor, pen and ink, and cut paper.

Abigail Wilson, “Murmuration”

While it’s impossible to declare any one of the diverse works as a favorite, French says the submission that surprised her the most is Joo’s “Imaginary Landscape lll,” a sculpture created with handmade paper. “I was a witness to his process of papermaking, and was fascinated with the amount of effort that went into just that,” she says. “But to then have such a stunning work of art emanate from that was very thrilling to me.”

Categories
News

Factory-made: Brewery, restaurant, café hint at the future of Charlottesville’s woolen mill

 

Charlottesville’s old woolen mill, peering over the Rivanna River on the town’s eastern edge, had been gathering dust for years. Now, the rubble has been cleared, and it’s time to drink beer.

In 2018, app development company WillowTree began a $25 million overhaul of the building. WillowTree’s employees will move into their 85,000-square-foot offices next year. The Wool Factory, an adjacent 12,000-square-foot hybrid space that includes a brewery, restaurant, and coffee shop, has just opened.

The symbiosis between the two outfits is obvious—The Wool Factory is a selling point for WillowTree, as the tech company tries to tempt employees into town, says Claire Macfarlan, The Wool Factory’s director of operations and sales, while The Wool Factory benefits from a “built-in [customer] base on top of the neighborhood.”

The mill itself was originally built in the 1790s, and has “a mixed history,” says Bill Emory, a longtime Woolen Mills neighborhood resident who’s conducted extensive research into the area’s past.

During the Civil War, the mill produced uniforms for Confederate soldiers. Union troops burned down the building, and its associated railroad bridge, when they occupied Charlottesville in 1865, according to the Encyclopedia Virginia.

In the 20th century, the mill grew into Albemarle County’s most productive industry, and the surrounding area became a steady, white working-class neighborhood.

“They had a large, over 50 percent female workforce,” says Emory. “The people who worked at the mill were able to afford housing in the neighborhood. Of course, it was sharply segregated. There was one African American employee in 1920.”

The woolen mill circa 1920. Photo: Albert and Shirley Small Special Collections Library

The mill closed in the 1960s, and has since served a variety of purposes. Most recently, it was a storage facility. 

“There wasn’t a lot of community interaction with the mill site,” says Emory. “It might have been under-used, but it was never a piece of crap. The previous owners were storing stuff in it so they always took care of the roof.”

Selvedge Brewery, one of The Wool Factory’s three dining options, leans into the setting. It’s full-on urban-industrial brewery chic: The walls are rough brick, the stools are spare metal, and an ancient Remington typewriter sits on a side table. Yellow exposed light bulbs glow from strings above the courtyard.

The Wool Factory comes by some of this character honestly. The green metal lamps that hang from the ceiling are refurbished but original. The gray and white paint—sparse enough to reveal the bricks beneath it—dates back to the building’s industrial days. An original wooden wall separates the kitchen from the dining room in Broadcloth, the Wool Factory’s sit-down restaurant.

“We try to keep it a little bit raw,” says Brandon Wooten, the project’s creative director and a co-founder of Grit Coffee, another tenant. “Normally you have to create the character. We didn’t have to create the character.”

“From the point of view of the historic repurposing and renovation, I’m in awe of the place,” Emory says.

The county’s Architectural Review Board oversees the renovation of historic properties, and the board’s influence can be felt on the property in a few places. An elevated metal chute cuts through the air across the courtyard. “This chute up here that doesn’t do anything had to stay,” says Wooten. 

The renovators replaced all the windows in the mill, but had to install window frames that matched the originals. And the lettering on the side of the building—“Charlottesville Woolen Mill,” in squarish white sans-serif—was freshened up but couldn’t be moved, even though the words are spaced oddly, says Lizzy Reid, a public relations manager working with The Wool Factory. 

The Wool Factory team says it wants to communicate the history of the building to visitors, but doesn’t have concrete plans in place.

“We’re trying to figure out where that stuff will actually go,” Wooten says. They might put historical information on the menus at Broadcloth, he says, and they “have talked about having something you can scan.” 

Macfarlan says they don’t want to install a permanent plaque with historical information, because they wouldn’t be able to remove it during events.

“The names of the beers are very intentional,” says Reid, when asked about the mill’s history. In homage to the space’s original purpose, Selvedge Brewery’s beers are named after fabrics. Patrons can suck down a pint of Seersucker, Herringbone, or even Flannel No. 1.

Now, Emory says, the onus is on the city and county to make the building accessible. Broadway Street, which leads through the Woolen Mills neighborhood to the mill, is a “super-wide street with no pedestrian facilities, no bike facilities,” says Emory. “Totally uninviting place to get to if you’re doing anything other than driving a car.”

WillowTree has said it will offer kayaks to those employees ambitious enough to commute to work via the Rivanna. That’s a creative solution, but it won’t be enough to insulate the neighborhood from hundreds of new commuters. (And brewery-goers beware: Kayaking under the influence is illegal in Virginia.)

“It’s potentially a keystone for recreation and a lot of good things happening,” says Emory. “If the county and the city figure out how they’re going to get people to and fro without destroying all the city neighborhoods around the mill.”

 

This story was corrected 7/9 to reflect that the Albemarle County Architectural Review Board, not the Charlottesville Board of Architectural Review, oversaw the renovation of the woolen mill property.

Categories
News

In brief: No pipeline, name game, and more

Pipeline defeated

The Atlantic Coast Pipeline is history. In a surprise announcement on Sunday afternoon, Dominion Power called off the 600-mile natural gas pipeline that would have run from West Virginia to North Carolina. “VICTORY!” declared the website of the Southern Environmental Law Center.

The news is a major win for a wide variety of environmental advocacy groups and grassroots activists, who have been fighting the pipeline on all fronts since the project was started in 2014. The pipeline would have required a 50-yard-wide clear-cut path through protected Appalachian forest, and also disrupted a historically black community in rural Buckingham County.

Dominion won a Supreme Court case earlier this month, but that wasn’t enough to outweigh the “increasing legal uncertainty that overhangs large-scale energy and industrial infrastructure development in the United States,” says the energy giant’s press release.

Litigation from the Southern Environmental Law Center dragged the pipeline’s construction to a halt. Gas was supposed to be flowing by 2019, but less than 6 percent of the pipe ever made it in the ground.

The ACP had the backing of the Trump administration, and U.S. Secretary of Energy Dan Brouillette blamed the “obstructionist environmental lobby” for the pipeline’s demise.

“I felt like it was the best day of my life,” says Ella Rose, a Friends of Buckingham member, in a celebratory email. “I feel that all the hard work that all of us have done was finally for good. I feel like I have my life back. I can now sleep better without the worries that threatened my life for so long.”

__________________

Quote of the week

It is past time. As the capital city of Virginia, we have needed to turn this page for decades. And today, we will.

Richmond mayor Levar Stoney on the city’s removal of its Stonewall Jackson and Matthew Fontaine Maury statues

__________________

In brief

Loan-ly at the top

On Monday, the government released a list of companies that accepted loans through the federal Paycheck Protection Program, designed to keep workers employed during COVID’s economic slowdown. A variety of Charlottesville businesses accepted loans of $2-5 million, including Red Light Management, St. Anne’s-Belfield, and Tiger Fuel.

Renaming re-do

An advisory committee recommended last week that recently merged Murray High and Community Charter schools be renamed Rose Hill Community School, but this suggestion immediately raised eyebrows: Rose Hill was the name of a plantation that later became a neighborhood. The committee will reconvene to discuss options for a new moniker.     

City hangs back

Charlottesville is one of a handful of localities that have pushed back against Governor Ralph Northam’s order to move to Phase 3 of reopening. While some of the state has moved forward,  City Manager Tarron Richardson has decided to keep the city government’s facilities operating in accordance with Phase 2 requirements and restrictions. As stated on its website, this decision was made in order to “ensure the health and safety of staff and the public.”

Soldier shut in

Since at least the beginning of July, the gates of UVA’s Confederate cemetery, where a statue of a Confederate soldier stands, have been barricaded, reports the Cavalier Daily. A university spokesman says the school locked the cemetery because protesters elsewhere in the state have been injured by falling statues. Or maybe, as UVA professor Jalane Schmidt suggested on Twitter, “they’re tryna keep the dead from escaping.” 

Categories
Coronavirus News

School’s (not) out: City schools debate reopening

As new cases of the novel coronavirus pop up each day, it’s become increasingly difficult for area schools to decide how and when to reopen. And after over five hours of discussion and debate on Monday night, the Charlottesville School Board got no closer to a definite answer.

Last week, the district rolled out a proposal for reopening, which would send students in kindergarten through sixth grade to school for in-person classes—with social distancing guidelines and safety measures—four times a week. Seventh through 12th graders would be split into two groups and alternate between in-person and virtual classes throughout the week, but would work from home on Fridays. All students could opt in to online-only learning, ahead of September 8, the first day of school.

A number of parents, teachers, and other community members raised concerns about this model during public comment at Monday’s meeting, pointing to a variety of ways in-person classes could go awry. 

“I believe that people will get sick,” said Tess Krovetz, a second grade teacher at Jackson-Via Elementary. “Right now we can say with some confidence that COVID-19 does not affect children the same way it affects adults. But that’s because for the most part since March we’ve kept our children home and safe. Sending them back to school is a science experiment that can—and will—lead to trauma and loss.”

Krovetz and kindergarten teacher Shannon Gillikin penned an open letter to Superintendent Rosa Atkins and the school board in support of a virtual reopening, citing case spikes due to the state reopening, among many other concerns. To date, more than 150 staff members from across the district have signed it.

Instead of putting a large amount of time and effort into planning for in-person classes, they encouraged the board to focus on training teachers and parents for equitable distance learning.

Lashundra Bryson Morsberger was the only board member who fully supported an all-digital reopening. She believes there are “too many unknowns” about the virus, and that the community isn’t safe enough for in-person classes. She also thinks the proposed plan spreads staff too thin and does not adequately address concerns about contracting the virus, which could put them out of work “for months,” making it even more difficult to implement distance learning if schools had to shut down.

“We need to take this time to do the best plan that we can for virtual learning, instead of losing time now talking about a plan that probably in September will just be a distant memory,” she said.

Last week, more than 70 parents signed an open letter to the school district, asking for it to offer in-person classes five days a week.

Multiple speakers during public comment were strongly in favor of face-to-face classes, particularly for younger students, mentioning the equity and learning gaps exacerbated by distance learning in the spring. A significant number of parents in the district are unable to work from home, they said, and would be forced to find child care, which could lead to more risk of contracting and spreading the virus.

The board will make its final decision on either July 23 or 30.

“No matter what we do, we’re going to have someone upset with us,” concluded board member Juandiego Wade.