As temperatures rise and the days get longer, wine lovers look for different options in their glass. Whether chosen to accompany a day by the water, an afternoon on the deck, or an evening gathered around the grill, most of us move away from big-bodied, high-tannin, and high-alcohol red wines and instead reach for lighter, brighter, and more refreshing alternatives.
While many already have a “go to” wine for the summer months, perhaps a favorite chardonnay or rosé that you turn to every year, look for these local, and perhaps lesser-known, varieties if you’re open to something new.
Sauvignon blanc
Perhaps a surprising choice to lead with, since sauvignon blanc is widely known and popular worldwide. However, you’re likely drinking options from France, where this grape originated, or from New Zealand, where examples have become known for their prominent expression of grassy aromas and flavors. It seems that, while sauvignon blanc has been produced for quite some time in Virginia, only recently have local examples started to receive greater attention and garner critical appreciation.
Some people may not like the distinctive aroma and green grassy notes of this wine, but the best examples balance those components with citrus, green apple, and sometimes peach flavors. The Stinson Vineyards 2022 Sauvignon Blanc and the Grace Estates Winery 2021 First Baron Sauvignon Blanc are two local examples of this balanced style. The natural acidity is crisp and refreshing on the palate. A great option for hot weather and natural pairing with salads, oysters, or fish.
Albariño
This grape variety originates from the Rías Baixas region of Spain, located along its southwestern coast. The climate there is humid with frequent rainstorms, which led many local winemakers to surmise that albariño might also grow well here in Virginia. The grape grows with an open cluster structure, increasing ventilation and reducing disease. It also features relatively tough skins, which helps resist damage from pests.
Chrysalis Vineyards and Horton Vineyards are credited as among the first to plant albariño in Virginia. There still isn’t a lot of it locally in terms of acreage, but the variety is quickly becoming recognized by growers and winemakers as producing excellent results in both the vineyard and in the winery. As a result, more and more albariño is being planted and data shows it is currently the fastest-growing grape variety in the state.
The resulting wine is extremely popular in Spain and in neighboring Portugal where it pairs well with the local tapas cuisine and ingredients such as smoked ham or anything from the sea. Stylistically, it is a crisp, white wine with high acidity featuring aromas and flavors of lemon, lime zest, honeysuckle, pear, and frequently a characteristic hint of salinity. Try two excellent examples produced nearby: the Blenheim 2021 Vineyards Albariño and the Afton Mountain Vineyards 2021 Albariño.
Vermentino
Vermentino is an Italian variety predominately found in Sardinia, an island located in the Mediterranean Sea with a maritime climate that is hot and humid. Like albariño, vermentino grapes grow in loose clusters and have relatively thick skins which helps to reduce disease and pest damage. Barboursville Vineyards deserves credit for championing vermentino in Virginia, and the success of this variety locally is almost entirely due to its efforts.
The Barboursville Vineyards 2021 Vermentino Reserve is a medium-bodied, high-acid white wine with notes of citrus, white peaches, green herbs, and wet stone minerality. Its intriguing complexity and slightly fuller mouthfeel pairs well with grilled fish, vegetable pasta, or even a seafood stew.
Various vintages of the Barboursville Vermentino Reserve have been included in the Governor’s Cup Case for five years in a row. The case recognizes the top 12 wines in the annual competition, so its consistent inclusion is a testament to the high quality and crowd- pleasing flavors of this wine.