Merrie Mill Farm & Vineyard owners Elizabeth and Guy Pelly bought the 21-year-old deli and specialty grocery lovingly known as Feast! in January. Now under new direction, the Main Street mainstay is surrounded by pressing questions. (For one, what about the exclamation point?)
Elizabeth Pelly recently talked to Knife & Fork about her budding stewardship of the Charlottesville culinary institution, the latest at Merrie Mill, and more.
Knife & Fork: What made you want to buy Feast!?
Elizabeth Pelly: They actually approached me. I didn’t know it was for sale. And to be totally honest with you, I was not looking for another business acquisition because Merrie Mill is still a pretty new business. So I kind of thought, ‘No way, this is not the right time.’ But I couldn’t get it out of my head. I decided it was an opportunity I should take. It’s such a beloved institution.
Have you made many changes?
If I didn’t know it then, after a couple of months, I know that everyone loves Feast!. Everyone is attached to something. And anyway, I was buying a business that works. It’s a well-oiled machine, and luckily all the staff decided to stay under my leadership. They are my most valuable asset.
How does Feast! fit with Merrie Mill in your portfolio?
Another reason it was attractive was that I could see the synergies. Now you are seeing Feast! products at Merrie Mill. We have updated our menu to include some of the signature sandwiches from Feast!. Our shareable platters are all Feast! salads and spreads. That’s elevated the food experience at Merrie Mill. Nobody likes change, period. So, even if a new product at Merrie Mill is better quality and made with local ingredients, some people still want it the way it was. But the synergy is worth it. Eventually, we are going to be able to sell our wine at Feast!.
Merrie Mill’s decor has made a splash. Any plans for design changes at Feast!?
My aesthetic is high on design, and people that appreciate the art and design at Merrie Mill are often the same types of people that appreciate the great curation and quality at Feast!. If I’m going to change anything, it is simply to elevate the shopping experience at Feast!. I never wanted to come in guns blazing and change everything up.
What about the store’s branding?
Feast! was started 21 years ago, and [owners] Eric and Kate [Gertner] didn’t know what it was going to become. And we as a culture didn’t understand branding the way we do now. I’m giving myself some time to really understand the business and our mission, but that is what’s coming—some type of brand rejuvenation. It is such a sophisticated brand and has such a great reputation, and I want all those aspects to be reflected in the logo.
What’s your ultimate goal for both Feast! and Merrie Mill?
I just want to keep offering great quality products and keep people fed and wined happily. I want to continue to be a presence in the community—maybe more so at Merrie Mill than at Feast!. At the winery, we do a concert series and art fests and other outdoor events. It’s about giving people opportunities to see Virginia artisans and arts and crafts makers. Feast! used to be all about tasting, but I don’t know if we’re a tasting society anymore. We do our weekly wine tastings in a controlled way and are gently introducing the idea back in, but I don’t think we will ever have the big bowl of bread and olive oil for dipping again.
ROAD TO NEW WARES
New Feast! owner Elizabeth Pelly likes the stories behind retail products. “Not necessarily the story of why we are selling it, but the story within the product,” she says. Following are four items Pelly has brought or is bringing to the boutique grocery store’s shelves.
Askinosie Chocolate. “It’s made with cacao beans from different regions, sourced from small holder farmers. So it’s basically like, here’s your farmer, and his picture is on the chocolate bar.”
Wiseacre Tiny Bomb American Pilsner. “I have a connection to this brewery in Memphis, and this product is amazing. It is from the largest craft brewery in Tennessee, and it is the number four pilsner in the country.”
Oat Haus Granola Butter. “It is nut free, dairy free, soy free, and vegan. It spreads like peanut butter, and it’s delicious.”
Vegan cheese. “We already have such great cheeses, and I would love to look into some good vegan cheeses. Some of the new products out there are good enough to carry alongside traditional cheese.”—SG