Categories
News

Fighting for calm

Charlottesville High School was unexpectedly closed for three days, from Friday, November 17, through Tuesday, November 21, after student fights tipped an already short-staffed school over the edge. Brawls and disruptive behavior have been a persistent problem at CHS this school year, causing safety concerns for students, staff, and parents. Though Charlottesville City Schools has labeled the days without instruction a “cultural reset,” details of how the school will fix its student behavior issues remain murky.

Problems at the school most recently escalated when a large-scale fight broke out on Thursday, November 16. In a video of the fight obtained by C-VILLE, several girls can be seen swinging at each other, with dozens of observers cheering, filming, and spectating. There does not appear to be a CHS staff member visible at any point in the short recording.

While particulars about the students involved in the altercation are limited, CCS officials confirmed that an 18-year-old not affiliated with the school was let into the building during the incident. The unknown individual was reportedly involved in the fight, and came to the school for the altercation.

Charges have been pressed against the 18-year-old, according to CCS Superintendent Royal Gurley. Based on information from the Charlottesville-UVA-Albemarle Citizens Connect portal, there are two cases pending that align with the date, time, and location of the incident: non-domestic disturbance and simple assault.

Gurley said the November 17 school closure was a result of both expected staff absences and call-outs following the fight. “There were some teachers who were going to be at conferences, but most certainly there were some teachers who decided yesterday that they wanted to take care of themselves today,” he said during a press conference. “They want to see support for their students, so that the climate is better, but they also want to see supports for themselves and their colleagues.”

While Gurley indicated that recent incidents have largely involved the same small group of individuals, the impact of the CHS fights extends well beyond those directly involved in the altercations.

CHS does not have student resource officers, so care and safety assistants and teachers are often responsible for breaking up altercations between students. There have been unconfirmed reports of a staff member injured in a fight that occurred in October, with multiple students reporting seeing a care and safety assistant wearing a sling in the following days. CCS officials would not confirm or deny the alleged injury.

“What we know is that it seems that students are bringing some issues that are non-school related into the building, and they are engaging in this inappropriate behavior,” said Gurley. “That type of behavior is not welcomed and tolerated in this building. And we need to know what supports do you need in order to be successful? And if it’s not here, then let’s help you to find where those supports are located.”

As part of its effort to improve the environment at CHS, CCS plans to reaffirm consequences for inappropriate student behavior and direct students with persistent disciplinary issues to alternative learning environments, including Lugo-McGinness Academy and the soon-to-be-launched Knight School.

Gurley and CCS Supervisor of Community Relations Beth Cheuk acknowledged a call by the Charlottesville Education Association for classes to be canceled through Thanksgiving break at the Friday, November 17, press conference, but reiterated that school would continue as scheduled with several changes made to improve security and safety at CHS. Less than 24 hours later, the district reversed course and announced November 20 and 21 would be teacher workdays.

“We agreed to cancel classes at Charlottesville High School on Monday and Tuesday, November 20-21 to allow administrators and staff to continue planning for a ‘reset’ of school policies, procedures, and culture so that we can return to our core purpose—offering a safe learning environment in which our students will grow and thrive,” wrote school board chair James Bryant in a press release announcing the closure.

Speaking to C-VILLE about his experiences at the school, CHS counselor and wrestling coach David Wilkerson says he hopes the workdays will allow staff to find proactive solutions to the problems plaguing the school. “We’re all so busy throughout the day managing kids, that when something happens, that erupts, and we have to take care of it, we’re putting out fires rather than communicating,” he says. “I think it’s extraordinarily fortunate that we’re able to take two days, and just talk with no kids to manage in the building so that we can establish norms and structure and expectations and a way to communicate as we move forward.”

The situation at CHS is still rapidly developing, with next steps changing day-to-day. After the sudden November 8 announcement that Principal Rashaad Pitt would not return after the Thanksgiving break, retired Charlottesville principal Kenny Leatherwood was named interim leader at CHS.

Categories
Culture Living

C’mon, get happy at the Brooks Family YMCA

Let’s say you hate going to the gym, i.e., dragging your flaccid, corporeal form over to that place where, when you walk in, you’re supposed to stride toward a bunch of metal contraptions and cables and bars, as if you know exactly what you’re doing — all while avoiding eye contact with a Noah’s Ark of mammalian shapes and sizes who are grunting, huffing, and swinging around you. You hope that they’ll wipe down the equipment when they’re done and that you won’t run into any of them naked in the locker room, should you find yourself needing to use the bathroom.

Can’t you stay healthy without the gym? Especially during the holiday season, when it gets dark at 4pm, and you eat pumpkin pie for breakfast and family stress for lunch? Why add the gym to your plate?

My eggnoggy friends, I’m here to tell you that the Brooks Family YMCA is the perfect antidote to holiday hell. Because technically, yes, it is a gym, but emotionally, it’s a warm hug of community love (like a Hallmark Christmas movie, minus the cringe, and yes, I mean you, Lacey Chabert).

What

Building physical and social muscle at the Y. 

Why

Because in an age of debilitating loneliness, the Y offers an affordable, accessible playground for people of all ages and backgrounds.

How it went 

Here’s how much I love the Y before I even walk in: I love the view of the trees and softball fields when I pull into the parking lot. I love glimpsing the city bus out front, and knowing people from all across town hang out here. I love seeing the morning sky reflected in the floor-to-ceiling windows, checking out the children’s chalk drawings on the sidewalk next to the Little Free Library, and I love mumbling “hi” and “thanks” to the folks ahead of me who hold the door and let me go first. 

I haven’t even started working out, and already my heart’s grown three sizes. 

The Y is like some kind of gift you’d find under the tree if you spent the holidays with Mr. Rogers and the Grinch (after he learned to love the Whos). I walk in the front doors and briefly flash back to my favorite-ever day of kindergarten. Friendly staff greet me with just the right measure of cheer, even if they opened the place at 5:30am. Festive seasonal decorations drape the front desk, along with bright fliers and handwritten signs announcing food drives, teen night out, rumba lessons, fun runs, and a general cornucopia of community stuff that warms me to my hammertoes.

Yes, yes, they have all the machines and weights and classes you’d want from a gym. You’ll get your steps in and your blood pressure down, your muscles as swole as the Rock if you like. You’ll try Deep Water Intervals with the old folks, and realize it has kicked your cream-cheese behind. 

But better still, you’ll work out in full view of the woods behind the building—glorious. You’ll discover the frittatas, pastries, and Grit coffee at the Kindness Cafe + Play, which employs adults with cognitive disabilities, and spreads goodness to all. You’ll slam the battle ropes like a damn Marvel hero, then recover while watching a dad teach his kid to swim, or what could be the cast of Cocoon schooling each other on the pickleball courts.

It is fun to stay (for a workout) at the YMCA, to paraphrase some wise Village men circa 1978, and more than that, it’s good for your heart, especially when you feel stressed or lonely. “Look for the helpers,” Mr. Rogers said. That’s you, and your neighbors. That’s community. That’s the Brooks Family YMCA, where, any time of year here in Hooville, you’ll find the strength of 10 Grinches, plus two.

Categories
Arts Culture

Thomas Jefferson & Bill Barker in the HotSeat

Thomas Jefferson—you love him, or you love to hate him. Either way, wouldn’t it be interesting to ask ol’ TJ some questions? We thought so, so we spoke to historical impersonator Bill Barker, Monticello’s resident Thomas Jefferson. A veteran historical actor and interpreter, Barker portrayed Jefferson in Colonial Williamsburg for 26 years before coming to Monticello in 2019. Barker regularly pops up at Monticello and at other events around Charlottesville, and he’s also performed as Jefferson at the White House, the Palace of Versailles, and more. Together, Jefferson and Barker answer some very pressing questions on favorite foods, books, and emojis. Got more burning questions for TJ? Catch Barker in action November 24 at 6pm at the Rotunda Planetarium public viewing night. rotunda.virginia.edu and monticello.org

Name: Col. Thomas Jefferson. (Many have forgotten, I was commissioned Lieutenant Colonel of Albemarle Militia before the American Revolution.)

Age: 80 years, in this year of ’23 (1823).

Hometown: Charlottesville, Albemarle County, Commonwealth of Virginia.

Job(s): Farmer, public servant, and educator.

Describe a perfect day: Rise before the sun and complete necessary administrative and personal correspondence before breakfast. Have breakfast with family, friends, and guests, then spend several hours in my study reading and pursuing further efforts to create a universal system of education for our commonwealth and our nation. Ride horseback across fields and through the woods in the surrounding neighborhood, conversing with many whom I meet along the way. Have dinner in the late afternoon with family, friends and guests, accompanied by a bottle of elegant wine to share at the table after the repast. In the early evening I would enjoy a family read, musicale, or enlightening conversation. To bed about 9:30–10pm after a good read upon something in moral authority.

Proudest accomplishment: Acquiring the hand of Mrs. Jefferson in marriage. We were only married for “ten years of uncheckered happiness.”

What’s your favorite part of your house, Monticello: Views of the out of doors from every window in the house.

Favorite food: Vegetables well-cooked, especially the English pea.

Favorite wine: An elegant claret, Haut-Brion.

Favorite book and/or author: The Complete Works of William Shakespeare and The Life and Opinions of Tristram Shandy by Rev. Lawrence Stern.

Were you a good slave owner: No individual entitled under the laws of man to the ownership of his fellow man, thereby denying another their right to live their own lives, may be considered a good owner of an enslaved individual.

How do you celebrate Thanksgiving: Welcoming many around the table to enjoy the bounty of a successful harvest while giving thanks for good health and the continued efforts for providing the inherent right of the pursuit of happiness for every individual.

Favorite Thanksgiving dish: Cooked pasta cut in short hollow tubes and smothered in melted Parmesan cheese.

Now we’ll pass the quill to TJ’s good friend, Bill Barker

Name: Bill Barker

Age: 70 years.

Hometown: Abington, Montgomery County, Pennsylvania.

Job: Historical Interpreter (Thomas Jefferson).

What’s the hardest thing about being Thomas Jefferson: Interpreting him in the context of his own time and place to the “presentism” of a time and place 200 years after his own.

Is the costume comfortable: Yes.

Favorite local restaurant: The delightful variety of many great restaurants in Charlottesville makes it impolitic to recognize simply one.

Who is your hero: My mother and father.

Best advice you ever got: “Do you want to know who you are? Don’t ask. Act! Action will delineate and define you.”

Proudest accomplishment: Every time, if possible, I may help someone to be happy.

Describe a perfect day: Tomorrow.

If you could be reincarnated as a person or thing, what would you be: Me, and live it all over again.

If you had three wishes, what would you wish for: Tomorrow, the day after tomorrow, and the day after the day after tomorrow.

Do you have any pets: I grew up with cats and dogs, but no pet at present.

Favorite movie and/or show: The Lost King and “Finding Your Roots” with Henry Louis Gates, Jr.

Favorite book: Any history or biography in which the factual story is stranger than fiction.

What are you listening to right now: Nothing at present, while focused on this interview.

Go-to karaoke song: None.

Who’d play you in a movie: Me.

Celebrity crush: Gilbert and Sullivan.

Most used app on your phone: Ancestry.com.

Last text you sent: “I’m almost finished with the interview.”

Most used emoji: I rarely use emojis.

Subject that causes you to rant: A closed mind.

Best journey you ever went on:
My life.

Next journey: Have to wait and see… 

Favorite word: Pleasure.

Hottest take: Never go back to the darkest ages to find the greatest enlightenment/Human nature does not change.

What have you forgotten today: The dream I had last night.

Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello

Categories
Culture Food & Drink

Guajiros grows, coffee gets a new Future, and Bowerbird bows out

Cool beans

It’s all about the flavor at Cumbre Bakery, a culture-fusing concept on East Jefferson Street. Owners Tito and Juanchi blend flavors from Italy and Argentina in their mouth-watering alfajores, medialunas, and empanadas, served alongside aromatic coffees.

It’s easier than ever to get your caffeine fix on the go with the opening of Future Coffee Co., a drive-through in the old Brews on High space. The extraterrestrial-themed menu includes breakfast sammies, sweets, and syrup flavors like lavender, blackberry, coconut, and cinnamon.

On the Corner, SK Coffee & Co serves up elevated coffee shop classics in a sleek space. The panini’s are perfectly melty and the frappes are a decadent treat.

Fresh eats

The mooves continue at Dairy Market with the opening of Al Basha, an Iraqi eatery offering made-from-scratch kabobs, platters, sandwiches, and sides. 

For sizzling meats and hearty stews, head to Bulpan Korean BBQ at Stonefield. Take your pick of beef, pork, or chicken, or try the vegetarian DanHoBak JJIM, a sweet and spicy tofu and vegetable stew with kabocha squash.

Mod Pod, part of The Little Mod hotel on the Corner, offers inventive breakfast and lunch eats from a sleek Airstream. Test your taste buds with the savory waffle cones—the Piggly Wiggly wraps up pork belly, avocado, roasted vegetables, and a maple citrus glaze. 

And at Potter’s Craft Cider, a new sandwich menu from chefs Ian and Allie Redshaw makes for a yummy outing.

New sips

The taps and tunes are flowing at the much-anticipated Superfly Brewing Co. The small, independent brewery serves up a rotating selection of drafts and is already hosting bands, a run club, and art galleries. 

Ed Liversidge’s Superfly Brewing Co. on Preston Avenue has a rotating selection of draft beer. Photo by Tristan Williams.

Pop a cork at Southwest Mountains Vineyards, the newest winery in Keswick. Head winemaker Boela Gerber came to Virginia from South Africa, and currently offers an impressive menu of reds, whites, and rosés. Try a fancier tasting in the second-floor space, with tableside service, or grab a spot downstairs for a more casual experience. 

They’re done

Say it ain’t so—after three years of baking flaky croissants and delicate macarons, Bowerbird Bakeshop is turning off the ovens. The bakery’s last day is December 16, and they’re selling out quickly, so get your last fix.

Fry’s Spring Station will sling its last pizza on November 26. The neighborhood staple regularly hosted trivia nights, and was a popular spot on UVA game days. 

Moves

Miami eatery Guajiros is moving—thankfully only a few short blocks away. The West Main location will stay open through the end of the year, before moving to the old Peloton Station space on 10th Street. 

Selvedge Brewing is leaving The Wool Factory on December 2, and will begin operations at 2415 Ivy Rd. on January 12.  

Kindness Cafe + Play is getting a second location at the Common Grounds Building near UVA. The mission-driven coffee shop is known for its excellent service and sips.

Kudos

The local wine industry has exploded in recent years, making an undeniable mark on the global viticulture scene. Recently, Wine Enthusiast named Charlottesville and the Monticello AVA, Wine Region of the Year, recognizing the area’s high-quality wines and innovation—and it’s not just the wines that’re sweeping awards. Ragged Branch Distillery’s Honey Barrel Finished Bourbon won the Virginia Bourbon Invitational’s blind tasting.

Categories
Arts Culture

Friendsgiving Revue

Enjoy a night of companionship and song at Chamomile and Whiskey’s Friendsgiving Revue. The local band headlines with its signature blend of roots, rock, and Americana, and invites an array of guests on stage for a song or two. Richmond singer-songwriter Deau Eyes brings her alt-indie tunes, and Rebecca Porter, who’s known for her commanding, soulful voice, performs her heartfelt country songs, among many others.

Friday 11/24. $12–18, 8pm. The Jefferson Theater, 110 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. jeffersontheater.com

Categories
News

In brief

Walking it back

The University of Virginia is withholding the independent report on the November 13, 2022, shooting on Grounds, citing potential impacts on the criminal trial of accused shooter Christopher Jones.

“Making the report public at this time, or even releasing a summary of their findings and recommendations, could have an impact on the criminal trial of the accused, either by disrupting the case being prepared by the Albemarle County Commonwealth’s Attorney, or by interfering with the defendant’s right to a fair trial before an impartial jury,” said UVA President Jim Ryan in a November 17 press release.

While the public release of the report has been delayed until the conclusion of criminal proceedings, Ryan has committed to its eventual publication, acknowledging the importance of the report for community healing. “We recognize that many people, including the families of those who were killed or injured that night, are awaiting more information as they continue to grieve and recover from the incalculable loss they experienced,” he said. “We are committed to providing it as soon as we can be sure that doing so will not interfere in any way with the criminal proceeding.”

It is currently unclear if UVA, which initially indicated it would release the findings in early November, is planning to hold the report until the end of Jones’ trial, or if the university is defining​ the end of criminal proceedings with a different legal benchmark. Jones’ next court appearance is scheduled for February 5, 2024.

Breaking the bank

Photo by Skyclad Aerial.

The Albemarle County Board of Supervisors voted to approve interim financing for renovations to the Albemarle-Charlottesville Regional Jail, even though 27 local organizations signed a letter of opposition.

Those that opposed funding the project—including the People’s Coalition Jail Committee and Legal Aid Justice Center—said in a November 14 release that “We demand our taxpayer dollars be invested in resources that create safety and prevent imprisonment and recidivism. This means investments in affordable housing, diversion programs, reentry programs, mental health services, and youth recreation programs. They also said funds should go toward “resourcing reentry programs that support our community members in successful reintegration.”

According to the proposal by Moseley Architects, the jail’s renovations will cost $49 million initially, with interest taking the total up to more than $72 million. Beyond cost, the groups that oppose it are concerned about the lack of transparency from project leaders, limited level of community input, and the extensive funding going to the punitive system rather than preventive resources.

In brief

Good fight

State Sen. John McGuire has announced that he will challenge U.S. Rep. Bob Good in next year’s Republican primary. In a Facebook post, McGuire accused Good—who represents Virginia’s 5th Congressional District—of abandoning former president Donald Trump by endorsing Florida governor Ron DeSantis for the 2024 general election. The senator’s break from his campaign promise to not challenge Good has sparked statements of condemnation from Virginia Republicans. McGuire won his state senate seat after running unopposed in this month’s election, and has been a member of the House of Delegates since 2018.  

Rake-a-thon  

Habitat for Humanity of Greater Charlottesville held its 10th annual Rake-a-thon fundraising event on Saturday, November 18. More than 400 volunteers pledged to participate by raking over 80 lawns to raise money for affordable housing. Donations support projects throughout the city, including the mobile home park redevelopment project at Southwood.

Filling in

In a letter to President Joe Biden, Virginia Senators Mark Warner and Tim Kaine recommended Patice Holland and Jasmine Yoon to fill an upcoming vacancy on the U.S. District Court for the Western District of Virginia. Holland is a principal attorney and chair of the diversity, equity, and inclusion task force at Wood Rogers Vandeventer Black PLC in Roanoke, and a substitute judge in the 23rd Judicial Circuit of Virginia. Yoon is the vice president for corporate integrity, ethics, and investigations at Capital One Financial Corporation.

Categories
News

Fire watch

The Albemarle County Fire Marshal’s Office issued a burn ban on November 17, following a wave of wildfires across Virginia. Though the Afton Mountain and Quaker Run fires are now contained, the Charlottesville area is not yet out of the woods this fire season.

No big fires have broken out in Albemarle County, but Albemarle County Fire Rescue has been busy helping neighboring communities and fighting drought conditions. “In the fall, there’s always the increased fuel load from debris that’s falling, leaves and other dead vegetation that’s died off, so that creates ground fuel,” says ACFR Deputy Chief Emily Pelliccia. “[Albemarle’s] been in better shape than … some of the other areas in terms of that ground moisture.”

Containing fires in remote areas or on difficult terrain, like Afton Mountain, can be challenging for firefighters, says Pelliccia. Between difficulty accessing the location of the flames and restrictions on heavy equipment, containing fires on mountaintops is literally an uphill battle.

“We were really fortunate with the Afton fire that the Madison [Quaker Run] fire was at a point where there were a lot of state and federal resources that had been kind of demobilized or were in a holding pattern,” says Pelliccia. “The Department of Forestry was able to relocate some of those quickly to the Afton fire.”

With the Afton and Quaker Run fires contained, ACFR is focusing on preventing future forest flames. ACFR monitors data from both the Virginia Department of Forestry and the National Weather Service to determine if a burn ban should be issued.

While Albemarle’s burn ban is still in effect at press time, that could change soon according to Pelliccia. 

“Fire ban season usually runs till about December 1. … I will say this year we’ve not seen a big spike in incidents as compared to the last few years,” she says. “With all the rain that we’re anticipating getting in the next couple of days, we may end [the burn ban] sooner.”

Even when the ban is lifted, precautions should still be taken when burning anything outdoors.

“We recommend keeping a really wide clearance around whatever it is you’re burning,” says Pelliccia. “We recommend 300 feet from structures—so any houses or any buildings—and then 500 feet from any other burning combustible.”

The holiday season is a prime time for increased calls to ACFR. Between decoration mishaps, cooking accidents, and candle overabundance, hearts aren’t the only things that can light up in the wintertime.

“There is a risk of fire from overloading circuits with extra lights. Hopefully no one’s using real candles in windows anymore, I think everyone’s switched to LED,” says Pelliccia. “We sometimes get a spike with people using turkey fryers … when they do it improperly and it splashes burning oil, that can sometimes catch stuff on fire.”

For more information on how to keep your holidays merry and bright (and safe!), visit albemarle.org/government/fire-rescue

Categories
News Real Estate

What and where

One of the major ideas driving reform of land-use approvals in Charlottesville is the notion that developers will construct much more housing if City Council and the Planning Commission are not involved in deciding what gets built and where.  

“Height restrictions effectively require all multifamily projects to obtain special use permits to make development feasible,” reads the Affordable Housing Plan adopted by City Council in March 2021. “Beyond this, the development processes are cumbersome, and significantly increase the time and cost to develop new housing.” 

Yet the draft version of the Development Code that council will consider at its December 5 public hearing contains elements that will keep appointed and elected officials more involved than had originally been envisioned.

Since the Planning Commission’s public hearing on September 14, two new zoning districts have been created including one where a “special exception permit” would be required for additional height. 

The exact boundaries for these have not yet been finalized, but the Neighborhood Core Overlay District will cover portions of Cherry Avenue and Preston Avenue. Developers will need to demonstrate they’ll provide some community benefit, in addition to providing more affordable units than otherwise required. This was added after concern was shown about the third phase of a large city complex. 

“What’s being proposed for the corridors is responsive to the concerns that were brought to us about the Dairy Market project when we had all of the people showing up at our Planning Commission meeting back in August,” said City Councilor Brian Pinkston at a recent work session.

On November 1, council directed staff to require a special exception to exceed more than five stories in the commercial corridor districts. There’s no map yet for how extensive these may be due to notice requirements for council’s public hearing. 

City Councilor Michael Payne was worried about what a lack of a permit might do to existing businesses. 

The new rules will still give the ability for property owners to change zoning districts through an amendment to the zoning map. At least one developer has signaled it will seek more density on land designated as Residential-A.

Last week, the Charlottesville Planning Commission granted more time for a rezoning application that’s making its way through the existing system. A company called Green Retro Salvage II Holdings wants to upzone three properties currently designated for single-family use to multifamily. That would allow for as many as 44 units on 0.95 acres of land.

That level of density would not be allowed under the future Development Code, which designates the land as Residential-A. That would allow between nine and 16 market-rate units assuming each lot would remain independent. 

Staff has not yet made a decision on when existing applications under the existing rules must be approved, but there will be a provision for developers to seek a rezoning to a different district.

“If it comes down to it and the ordinance is passed and it said ‘we’re cutting it off on this day and you’re not approved’ I think we would simply amend this to like an R-X,” says Justin Shimp, the project’s civil engineer. “My entire career now, I’ve essentially fought against density restrictions everywhere I go.”

City Council will hold one last work session on the Development Code on November 29.

Categories
Culture Food & Drink

Wild harvest

October is the tail end of the harvest for Patrick Collins, the cidermaker behind Patois Cider. But the apples on one of his favorite trees are just about ripe.

“That guy there, with all the yellow orbs,” Collins says. “That tree is so delicious. See how it’s still full of leaves? It tastes fantastic, but the fact that it hasn’t defoliated means that it has a super strong immune system.”

Collins has driven his pickup truck to the top of a mountain pass in the Blue Ridge. There are other apple trees scattered in the area, but their branches are bare. This one, Collins notes, impressed and enthusiastic, still has dark-green leaves. 

It’s been a dry summer, and drought stress can make trees let go of their leaves early. Even more challenging are the many pests and diseases that plague apple trees. There’s fire blight, cedar apple rust, blossom end rot, apple scab. They are such a problem that the general consensus among orchardists is, you simply can’t grow organic apples in Virginia. But these trees, left to grow untended for 100 years, are doing just fine.

Patrick Collins (right) and Danielle LeCompte formed Patois Cider just two years after meeting. While wild apples are at the core of their cidery business today, Collins and LeCompte began foraging because they had little in startup money and materials. Photo by Stephen Barling.

None of the apples here have names. Despite the saying “the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree,” apples grown from seed famously have different characteristics than their parent trees. All of these have grown from scattered seeds. Collins speculates that the trees are descended from a former plantation nearby.

“Almost everybody back then, no matter if it was like a substantial landholder or just a homesteader, one of the first things they would plant would be apple trees,” Collins says. Apples have tremendous variety when grown from seed. “That would allow you to have a variety of different types of crop from the apple trees. Then you’d have fruit that was suitable for drying, fruit that would keep through the winter in your root cellar, and, of course, apples that were suitable for cider, or brandy.”

Now, they’re feral. Which is exactly what Collins is looking for. They’re the opposite of the giant, sugary apples prized in grocery stores.

“These apples are intense,” Collins says. “They’re small, they’re gnarled, the skins are thick, the flesh is substantial, and when you bite into it, you can get popped in the mouth. It’s also about the aromatics. Retro-nasally there’s all these leachy, rose-petal, or sometimes it can be really mossy.”

The things that have been bred out of commercial apples are exactly what Collins wants for cider. Tannins, which are bitter and astringent compounds, give the cider structure and body. High acid content helps control fermentation and adds an enticing flavor. 

Collins and his partner, Danielle LeCompte, met while working in the beverage industry, thanks to their passion for cider and wine. They bonded over humble meals and bottles of wine. 

“Working in restaurants kind of opened my world to wine,” LeCompte recalls. “There’s something special about a table ordering a bottle of wine instead of everyone getting a separate thing. There was this immediate sense of unity, of a shared experience.”

Photo by Stephen Barling.

Two years after meeting, the couple decided to launch a cider business. Collins read books on cidermaking while LeCompte held down a job as a wine distributor. At the time, foraging apples was a necessity. The pair had little more than their passion to work with.

“We started off with a couple thousand dollars in shared savings,” Collins says. “Enough money, essentially, to buy a press, some used barrels, and pay rent.”

Wild apples are a resource that is already out there, if you are willing to get them. 

“Going on walks, we noticed an abundance of apples, the apple trees that are wild, on mountainside hikes and mountainside vistas,” LeCompte says. “And Patrick was super keyed in to just being able to look at topographical maps, finding out where some of these orchards are.”

Luck played a part too.

“In 2019, when we did our first fruit foraging run, there was a bounty of fruit,” LeCompte recalls. “Then 2020 followed and there was a late frost, so there was no fruit. If we had started the project in 2020, that would have been extremely discouraging.” 

Slowly, Collins and LeCompte learned where to hunt for Virginia’s lost orchards.

“Most of them are around 950 feet on the eastern slopes of the Blue Ridge, because that’s the frost line,” Collins says. “Everything above that, unless it’s on a really well-draining slope, will get frosted. If you see a road that goes to about that elevation and stops on the eastern slopes of the Blue Ridge, there’s hopefully some trees there.”

Seedlings are better adapted to the climate, Collins says, and can be found by going up in elevation in an area where there have been apple trees.  

“There’s probably a pretty good chance you’ll see at least one or two,” Collins says.

The pair found themselves retracing Virginia’s faded apple history.

Collins and LeCompte prefer to forage from wild apple trees, partly because they adapt to the environment over time, and genetic variability affects taste. Photo by Stephen Barling.

“Apples and peaches were a huge cash crop,” Collins says. “If you look at where the railroad goes, it sort of follows along where these old orchards were because it was exported across the Atlantic and to the West Coast.”

Some of those heirloom varieties, such as Winesaps and Albemarle Pippins, have lasted in abandoned orchards, and Collins and LeCompte still salvage them for cider.

“Albemarle Pippins were the export apple in the 19th century for Virginia,” Collins says. “It’s a keeper and it tastes like a pineapple dessert, but it has the complexity of flavor that you can make cider from it.”

For Collins and LeCompte, necessity overlapped with preference and, more importantly, values. The couple knew they wanted to make organic cider from unsprayed fruit, something that more acutely comes from the earth, rather than what a commercial orchard could supply.

Wild apples are organic as a matter of course, but they’re also uniquely sustainable. Because the trees are still entwined with the environment, they continue to adapt to it.

“Long term, it provides genetic renewal and suitability to the climate,” Collins says. “Genetic variability is not just about disease resistance, it’s also flavor. The apple has some amazing genetic variability and there’s so much potential for complexity of the flavors.”

That reward complements Patois’ forager spirit and the flavor of its cider. There is a sense of discovery, of finding out what nature has decided to make, adapting to it, and using it to its full potential. 

Collins is the first to admit that he can romanticize cidermaking, but he enjoys the idea that someone is tasting the mountains and the year and how those regional forces have come together to form these apples year after year. 

He contrasts that enjoyment to the enjoyment of commercial wine and its position as an aristocratic symbol.

“What are we celebrating when we celebrate wine?” Collins says, reflecting on the emphasis that is placed on styles made from a particular region or a particular grape variety. “There’s a lot that’s beautiful right here. We’re really motivated to make wine from the commons and celebrate nature as it exists. It’s not being formed or shaped or forced.”

Patois Cider’s 21 Bricolage, made from crab, heirloom, and seedling apples. Photo by Stephen Barling.

Collins says he would like to have an orchard of his own someday. Tending the trees year after year strikes him as a special and affectionate relationship. But even then, he says, he wouldn’t give up foraging.

“We’ll keep foraging for as long as our bodies allow,” Collins says. “I think there’s something very unique and special to the chance element of foraging. The fact that these just popped up. There’s something very special about them.”

Today’s apples from Jarman’s Gap will go into a particularly interesting cider from Patois, the Bricolage. Bricolage comes from French and denotes something that is built from the parts that are available. Patois Bricolage is just that—a mixture of the apples in abandoned orchards and feral woods crafted into the year’s unique taste.

“Whatever we have on hand, we try to make something beautiful out of it,” Collins says.

Other pressings available are bottled from just one area, one abandoned orchard, or one variety of apple. Albemarle Pippin is a heritage variety that Collins enjoys bottling on its own as an homage to the industry.

Most of their products go wholesale to small, craft wineshops as far away as New York, Chicago, and New Orleans. Locally, they can be found at Greenwood Grocery, Market Street Wine, and Wine Warehouse. For those who want to meet the makers, bottles are also available directly from Patois via its website. 

Categories
Arts Culture

Nutcracker

Get an early start on the holiday spirit at Talmi Entertainment’s Nutcracker. The Christmas classic is full of falling snow, growing trees, handcrafted sets and costumes, and acrobatic moves. An international cast featuring Ukrainian principal artists jetés and pirouettes across the stage as beloved characters like the Mouse King, the Sugar Plum Fairy, and Mother Ginger.

Friday 11/24. $32.50–177.50, 3 and 7pm. The Paramount Theater, 215 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. theparamount.net