By Ella Powell
arts@c-ville.com
Emily Harpster launched SugarBear, an artisanal ice cream brand that prizes local ingredients and collaboration, in 2022, hoping to honor “food, small business, and community.” She takes a lot of pride in making each pint from scratch, but where does she find inspiration?
For Harpster, it’s simple: Most of her flavors evolve from personal experience. Take Wild Woman Whiskey, a nod to spiked eggnog that was inspired by a friend’s heartbreak.
Perfectly creamy and smooth, Wild Woman Whiskey has subtle hints of nutmeg that make it taste like spiked eggnog. But unlike the hotly contested Christmas beverage, here SugarBear’s use of whiskey and holiday spice creates a rich flavor that’s not overpowering, but strong enough to mend a wounded heart.
The Call Me Old Fashioned, a take on the classic cocktail, features Elijah Craig bourbon and sour Morello cherries. Infused with bitters, the ice cream is sweet and refreshing with a hint of orange in every bite. The cherry topping adds a sour punch, keeping the dessert versatile and edgy. If you like the cocktail, you’ll enjoy the flavor profile of this unique treat.
SugarBear’s traditional flavors are equally worth a lick. Emperor of Ice Cream, a nod to poet Wallace Stevens, who wrote a piece by the same name, is a chocolate pint reminiscent of a rich brownie.
“I was trying to think what the Emperor of Ice Cream should be, and I knew it had to be chocolate,” says Harpster.
Mint Chocolate Chunk, made with coconut oil, has a smooth texture with a glossy mouthfeel. The strong kick of mint is not for the weak, but those committed to a refreshing blast contrasted by nibs of dark chocolate are in for an elevated summertime treat.
The East High Street store’s fruity flavors—Blueberry Sunshine and Passionfruit included—are perfect for summer. Blueberry Sunshine contains blueberry coulis from local Eastwood Farm & Vineyards and lemon zest swirled into sweet cream. Though the tangy lemon hits the palate first, the flavor quickly transforms to sweetness. Meanwhile, Passionfruit includes real fruit puree as its central ingredient, and its balance of subtle tartness against a heightened sugary taste makes it, as Harpster says, “most popular with the kiddos.”
SugarBear’s menu is vibrantly handwritten and features a rotation of local collaborations and seasonal specials that pique curiosity. A row of picnic tables in the back allows customers to relax like it’s their own backyard, while velcro ax-throwing and jumbo Connect Four await groups of family and friends who are in for a sweet time.