University of Virginia and intelligence community leaders celebrated the official launch of the National Security Data and Policy Institute on November 21. The institute is a collaboration between the Office of the Director of National Intelligence and UVA.
“My belief is that this institute also fits squarely within UVA’s longstanding condition of public service,” said university President Jim Ryan at the event, which was held at the Rotunda. “Even if Thomas Jefferson would never have imagined artificial intelligence or a field called cyber security, I believe he would have been thrilled to learn that the university he founded would play a role in protecting the freedom and safety of American citizens from new kinds of threats and challenges.”
Funded through a two-year, $20 million contract, NSDPI is the realization of a joint effort by Director of National Intelligence Avril Haines and Virginia Sen. Mark Warner, chair of the Senate Intelligence Committee.
“We all recognize the growing importance of data in our world, and it is nowhere more important than in the intelligence community,” said Haines. “Data and our ability to manage it properly is fundamental to our work and to maintaining an advantage in an increasingly complex and interconnected global security environment, and increasingly important to our competitive edge in that environment.”
While figures vary, whatsthebigdata.com estimates that more than 320 million terabytes of data are generated every day as of 2024. For comparison, Edge Delta estimates that watching YouTube videos uploaded at 1080p generates approximately 2.5 to 4.1 gigabytes per hour—or 0.0025 to 0.0041 terabytes.
By bringing together public, private, and academic research into data analysis, the institute will employ developing technologies like artificial intelligence to identify potential national security threats. Professor Philip Potter will lead the NSDPI, drawing on his experience as founding director of the Batten School’s National Security Policy Center.
“It really takes that policy acumen and knowledge,” says Potter. Beyond the initial tasks of determining how to quantify metrics and prioritize known challenges within the intelligence community, the institute is, at its core, about building predictive models. “Our policy folks are often really good at identifying the right questions. Our data science folks are really good at knowing how to predict patterns. Bringing those two things together presents really exciting opportunities.”
A major advocate in the creation of the NSDPI, Warner emphasized both the potential for the institute to advance American intelligence-gathering capabilities and the importance of protecting the independence of the intelligence community amid the transition of power.
“The value of the intelligence community must be that it speaks truth to power, and it must speak truth to power with independence, without fear of retribution, because that’s the only way policy makers can come to a judgment that makes sense,” says Warner. “I worry at times, some of that independence may be threatened. As long as I have a seat in that room, I’m going to do everything I can to maintain that independence.”
Come January, president-elect Donald Trump has said he will appoint Tulsi Gabbard as the new Director of National Intelligence. Despite the change in leadership, Potter does not anticipate any major impacts on the NSDPI.
“Transitions are a normal part of democratic governments, and they always involve change,” says Potter. “We’re going to put our heads down. We’re going to do important work that is moving things forward for the nation and for the university, and that’ll be our process through every part of the democratic cycle.”
Game stores can be intimidating. For the layman, walking into The End Games and hearing someone discuss their level 18 Halfling Rogue in Dungeons & Dragons or their Warhammer 40k Space Marine Army is like listening to an advanced trigonometry lesson given entirely in Urdu. That’s why, while building his crowdfunded board game Springsign, Andreas “Andy” Mangham wanted to avoid making just another entry into the crowded field of math-heavy table-top role playing games, or collectible-focused trading card games like Magic the Gathering. “I wanted to make something that families could play,” he says. “In fact, it’s designed to be kind of an accessible gateway game that can introduce some cooler game concepts/mechanics to less experienced, ‘entry-level’ gamers.”
Yet to describe Springsign as a simple board game like Monopoly or Chutes and Ladders is inaccurate. The game, at its core, is a popularity contest, where several fantasy archetypes—like the strong, silent Soldier, or the wily Smuggler—complete tasks to win the affection of the townspeople for the highly coveted office of Mayor of Springsign, while an invisible third player—anarchy—competes against them all. Therefore, popularity becomes your scoreboard.
When you sit down to play, you’re given a reversible player card, and both sides contain your character’s picture, spaces for your inventory, and directions on what choices you can make during the action phase of the game. While one side is for beginners (with a more basic and streamlined experience), the other side of the card has more complex and deeper mechanics for the experienced gamer. The game is designed so that both the beginner and adept sides are balanced and can be played at the same time. This asymmetric gameplay style offers a lot more accessibility for families who want to have a game that’s fun for their kids, while also giving adults and experienced players a product that is engaging and strategic.
However, Mangham goes out of his way to make sure people understand one thing about his game: “This is not a cooperative game,” he says.
The project is part of The End Games initiative to branch out from its strictly retail focus and embrace Mangham’s skills as a game creator. The store’s co-owner Sam Fogelgren says that, once they discovered Mangham’s imagination and creativity, they decided to capitalize on his talents and let him chase his dream of game design.
“Andy started off as a front-of-house employee behind the counter,” Fogelgren says. “Once we all talked about his passion for making games, we moved him into that role to attempt to create a game. Retail is great and we love hosting events, but [we wanted to create] something new with The End Games that could be enjoyed by people around the world and we could leave our mark that way.”
Mangham is a local who grew up in the Shadwell area and graduated from UVA’s literary prose program in 2020.
“It’s a fancy way of saying creative writing,” Mangham says. “Not a very marketable skill set, some would say, but I’m pleased to say I’ve been using my education a lot. Right out of college, I wanted to work for The End Games. I knew I wanted to design games for a living.”
It took a couple years for Mangham to “pay his dues” and for the store, which Fogelgren describes as “a community where players and staff come together and share their passion in a welcoming environment … and create unforgettable experiences,” to be in the right position to back him and take the plunge on a project. But when the time was right, the tight-knit crew decided it was time for their adventure to begin.
“About a year into working there, my bosses approached me. They told me they knew I was into game design and wanted to experiment with starting an in-house game dev department, and was wondering if I could make that happen,” Mangham says. “So now, I’ve switched to only doing game development stuff. Springsign was proving to be like three or four jobs rolled into one, and I just wasn’t able to make meaningful progress on it with my time and attention divided. When you self-publish games, what most people don’t talk about is that making the actual game is only a third of the job; the rest is marketing, logistics, community-building, manufacturing, and budgeting.”
Fogelgren says they “had talked about if this went well and Andy was successful, we would love to continue spreading the word of Springsign and would look into supporting Andy and maybe other designers in creating more successful Kickstarter campaigns and new games.”
Endangered species?
Thanks to the boom in popularity from TV shows like “Stranger Things” and popular online shows like “Critical Role,” gaming has started to become more mainstream. What once was considered a niche market with eroding margins has seen a boom in recent years, and Charlottesville’s gaming scene has been no exception.
“Tabletop gaming is a growing market [in Charlottesville],” Mangham said. “The End Games used to be the only game shop in Charlottesville, and now two others have opened around C’ville in the past two years.”
As the world emerged from the pandemic, the desire for more social interaction led to increased popularity in the gaming scene, communities were reforged at local gaming stores around board games, table-top role playing games, and trading card games like Magic The Gathering and Yu-Gi-Oh. Early gamers congregated at the game store as a shelter from the insults and jabs of their peers, and an escape from pearl-clutching parents caught up in the “satanic panic” of the ’70s and ’80s. This was back when the word “nerd” was a pejorative, and religious conservatives were convinced that playing Dungeons & Dragons would have their kids summoning Cthulhu in the basement.
Times have changed, however, and as the teenagers from those early days have kids of their own, there are tabletop gaming groups that are into their second generation.
The End Games’ current owners—Fogelgren, Shane Borrelli, and Brian Roberts—bought the business 14 years ago and have since grown it into a viable mecca for fellow local nerds who now wear that title with pride. Though the popularity of game stores may no longer be waning, it still feels unique to find the same discussions about magic decks with like-minded individuals who find nothing strange about a five-hour argument over whether their lawful neutral paladin could beat your chaotic good elven mage in a karaoke contest.
“Because of amazing community support, we’ve been able to grow and provide so many people with a second home,” Fogelgren says. “That’s what we love about The End Games; it’s an inclusive fun atmosphere [where] you can come in and play for hours and not spend a dime. We do sell games and accessories for the games people play, but joining your friends to play or many of our events are free. We also have bigger tournaments with prizes for our more competitive players. We call it a second home because you can always come in, there’s a good chance our staff know your name, and we all try to make sure it’s a safe and fun environment for everybody.”
All or nothing
Springsign’s October launch party at the store quickly became a crowded affair, with eager players gathered around two boards while Mangham explained the mechanics of the game for what must have been the 100th time that night.
“I also had about three hours of sleep last night,” he said over the crowd. The game had occupied his brain for so long, and not knowing whether it would be popular had cost him many nights’ sleep. Not to mention that, as of the launch party, the all-or-nothing crowdfunding campaign (if the project did not meet its goal, all of the hard work would have been for the friends they met along the way) was still flying short of its $18,000 ask.
Mangham needn’t have worried. A week later, with 23 days left on the clock, Springsign had reached its goal.
“We hit our funding goal of $18k last night, so we are definitely making the game,” Mangham said via email. “Any further funding will go to our ‘stretch goals,’ which lets us unlock upgrades, better stuff for our backers, and improve the game in other ways.”
With the success of the crowdfunding campaign, the likelihood of The End Games branching out into developing other games increases tenfold, according to Mangham.
“My hope is that Springsign will not only pay for itself, but raise the capital we need to further invest into our game dev department,” he says. “Springsign is an experiment for us, on every level. Once our campaign ends and we can look at how much we raised, my bosses and I will be able to unpack everything we’ve learned from this project and figure out what comes next for us.”
If Virginia had a flavor, it might taste like Fine Creek Brewing’s Somewhereness Festival. On Saturday, December 14, the brewery will host its second annual celebration of Virginia’s fields and forests. Featuring beer, cider, and wine made primarily with Virginia-grown ingredients, this event is a true toast to terroir. Sip your way through offerings from local favorites like Selvedge Brewing, Mount Ida Reserve, Barboursville Vineyards, and Blenheim Vineyards, all while soaking up the “somewhereness” of Powhatan’s rolling hills.
A Grit-y move
After a decade of grinding on the Downtown Mall, Grit Coffee is relocating to 201 W. Water St. The fresh digs promise even more cozy corners for caffeine lovers. Don’t worry—Grit will keep its Mall location open until the move in early 2025.
A nest next door
From the team behind Chickadee—the Glass Building brunch and lunch spot that’s made mornings fly by with clever memes and crave-worthy eats—comes Swift Market, opening soon right next door. While Chickadee keeps its cozy sit-down vibe, Swift is all about grab-and-go convenience, with snacks, novelty gifts, and ready-to-eat fare. Expect everything from Doritos and Red Bull to salads, wraps, and premade eats with a gourmet touch.
Swift Market is set to open before the end of the year. Until then, keep full on Chickadee menu staples such as The Cronchy Boy—a breakfast masterpiece topped with a double-fried hash-brown patty.
Off the shelf
The Doyle Hotel transforms its Rooftop for Elf’d UP, a winter wonderland where you can relax with a spiked hot cocoa, hum along and sip a Rum, Rum Rudolph, or swing your bling and swig an All the Jingle Ladies spritz—now through the holiday season.
Old Tom, new tricks
Spirit Lab Distilling is making Old Tom gin new with its amped-up holiday blend. A twist on the classic 18th-century recipe, this version is richer, darker, sweeter, and stronger—barrel-aged and unfiltered for extra depth. Distilled with rice and green bananas fermented with koji mold (think sake), it bursts with exotic citrus and spice. Perfect for a holiday Tom Collins or your favorite festive cocktail. Swing by the red door at 1503 Sixth St. SE to grab a bottle, or order for pick-up or delivery at spiritlabdistilling.com.
Where to feast & be merry
Whether you’re dreaming of gingerbread, cozy comfort food, or globally inspired holiday menus, here are a few spots where you can gather while someone else sets the table.
Restoration at The Clubs in Crozet Serving up a three-course Christmas Eve dinner that’s as charming as its mountain views, this spot makes sure your holiday is both cozy and indulgent. oldtrailclub.com/restoration
Multiverse Kitchens For those who prefer Christmas at home without sacrificing flavor, Multiverse Kitchens has you covered. The virtual food hall’s decadent holiday menu features starters like fried Scotch eggs, mains such as beef Wellington or pork belly, and desserts that’ll make your guests swoon. multiversekitchens.com
Marigold by Chef Jean- Georges at Keswick Hall Enjoy a three-course prix-fixe Christmas Day menu. Full of classic comforts and global inspiration, dishes include Japanese mushroom risotto, applewood smoked butter beans, and indulgent desserts like white chocolate bûche de Noël. marigoldjg.com
1799 at The Clifton 1799 Restaurant, located in the historic hotel, will offer three-course menus for both Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, blending elegance and charm befitting its late 18th- and early 19th-century surroundings. the-clifton.com
The Pie Chest Though the brick-and-mortar shop may be closed, pie lovers rejoice—you can still order pies for Christmas! The Pie Chest’s Thanksgiving pre-order sold out in four days, so don’t delay when the next menu drops. eatdrinkbewordy.com
Mill Room at Boar’s Head Resort Breakfast with Santa? Yes, please! Join St. Nick and his elves for magical Sunday mornings in December (8, 15, and 22). Prefer a hands-on holiday? Sign up for one of the resort’s gingerbread workshops. And if you’re not up for cooking, the Christmas dinner will leave you feeling jolly. boarsheadresort.com
Less than two months before the start of his trial, Christopher Darnell Jones Jr. pleaded guilty to three counts of first-degree murder and seven additional charges in connection with the November 13, 2022, fatal shooting of three University of Virginia student-athletes on Grounds. New details of the incident emerged during the November 20 hearing at Albemarle County Circuit Court.
As part of the plea agreement, aggravated murder charges—which carry a mandatory sentence of life without parole—for the deaths of Devin Chandler, Lavel Davis Jr., and D’Sean Perry have been dropped.
In Virginia, first-degree murder is a class 2 felony, with a sentencing range of 20 years to life imprisonment. While Jones also pleaded guilty to two counts of malicious wounding and five firearms charges, the commonwealth declined to prosecute those seven charges at this time.
The UVA and Charlottesville communities continue to process the information revealed during the plea hearing.
According to a proffer filed by the state, Jones was “excited and happy when he arrived at the bus,” but his mood “turned irritable after the football players arrived.”
There is no indication that Jones knew any of the victims prior to November 13, 2022. While he was briefly on the UVA football roster, his time on the team did not coincide with Chandler, Davis, Perry, or Mike Hollins, who was injured in the shooting.
Most of the people on the bus were current or former students in a theater class on its way to Washington, D.C., to see The Ballad of Emmett Till, but Jones and three other students, who were enrolled in a seminar with the same professor, were invited because there was extra space.
During the ride to D.C., Jones sat alone and texted family members, including a “cryptic message that something might happen today,” sent to his younger brother. He also sat alone at the performance.
The group of students reboarded the bus around 7:30pm to return to Grounds. Witness accounts describe the mood as “jovial,” with people chatting and Chandler playing music over the bus speakers.
Several survivors recall Jones sitting alone and “frequently looking towards the back of the bus.” Earlier in the trip back to Charlottesville he “accused another student of staring at him, but that student chose not to engage with him,” according to the filing. Another student heard Jones speaking to himself, saying things like, “I’m sorry if I offended you. I didn’t mean to offend you,” “I’ve been through so much in my life,” and “I don’t have any weapons.”
Around 8:19pm, Jones texted an adult mentor and told him to contact a criminal defense attorney who had previously represented Jones. He then wrote, “This entire trip these boys been fcking wit me… tonight I’m either going to hell or jail. I’m sorry.”
The mentor asked Jones to call him, and for his location. Rather than respond, Jones said people were “talkin about killin” and he asked the mentor to “Just tell my story. I was a good guy I never meant or initiated any harm to anyone.”
At 8:36pm, Jones sent his last message: “They not getting off this bus.”
Sitting in front of Jones, Marlee Morgan was seated next to Davis, who called his aunt to talk about the play. Perry called his mom to share his “excitement over seeing his first live play.” Chandler slept.
As the bus approached Culbreth Parking Garage two hours later, students were mostly sleeping and doing homework, with some scattered conversations. Jones and Davis briefly talked about video games.
Jones abruptly said, “Y’all been fucking with me all day,” and shot Davis “through the gap in the seats.” As other students reacted to the sound, Jones and Davis struggled in the aisle of the bus. Jones stood over Davis and shot him in the back of the head after he collapsed. Morgan was shot in the right hip during the struggle.
After shooting Davis, Jones “stalked towards the back of the bus … methodically checked each seat until he reached the back of the bus where [Perry] and [Chandler] were.” He shoved over a female student crouching by Perry, then shot Perry once.
Chandler, who had noise-canceling headphones on, was still asleep when he was shot.
While fleeing the bus, Jones passed the professor, who was trying to evacuate students, and then fell out of the bus to the ground.
Hollins and another football player had been sitting at the front of the bus and already evacuated. When Hollins realized there were still people on the bus, he went back toward the doors. As he approached, Jones exited the bus with a gun in hand. Jones shot Hollins in the back as he ran toward the parking garage for cover.
Police were on scene within minutes of the first 911 calls at 10:16pm. All three victims died from gunshot wounds to the head.
UVA went into lockdown as Jones ran through Grounds toward his car, which was parked at Scott Stadium. He tossed evidence, including a firearm, as he ran. He was arrested the next day in Henrico County.
After the shooting, police found two additional firearms—a semi-automatic pistol and a Ruger AR-15 semi-automatic rifle—in Jones’ dorm.
Though the commonwealth’s proffer offers more insights into the shooting than was previously known, UVA refuses to release the attorney general’s independent report of the incident.
In an emailed statement, UVA Deputy Spokesperson Bethanie Glover told C-VILLE, “The University’s position hasn’t changed, we are committed to release the reports at the conclusion of the criminal proceedings, which will end with sentencing.”
Jones waived his right to appeal and admitted guilt as part of the agreement, but sentencing has been left to the discretion of Judge Cheryl Higgins. Sentencing has been set for February 4 through February 7, 2025, with a pre-sentencing report scheduled for 9:30am the first day.
As you prepare for the big feast this Thursday, why not start off with a side of jam? The table is set for an evening of Americana music at Thankful Dead, featuring early Grateful Dead tunes performed by local five-piece group Mama Tried, and covers of Jerry Garcia Band songs by Sisters & Brothers. It’s a testament to the lasting legacy of the Dead and JGB that these tribute shows continue to draw fans eager to experience the folksy blues-rock and psychedelic sounds of the ’60s.
Wednesday 11/27. $15–18, 7:30pm. The Jefferson Theater, 110 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. jeffersontheater.com
Beat the Black Friday blues with a night of Americana holler-core and down-home honky-tonk. Palmyra (above) and Ramona & the Holy Smokes take the stage for a post-holiday double bill sure to shake you out of your tryptophan stupor and take the edge off holiday shopping. It’s always a foot-stomping, booty-shaking, sing-along good time when these local faves do their thing. Is there a better way to celebrate the festive season than by sweating out your Thanksgiving meal under low ceilings and stage lighting with your loved ones? Probably not.
Friday 11/29. $15–18, 8pm. The Southern Café and Music Hall, 103 First St. S. thesoutherncville.com
A cybersecurity and risk intelligence firm founded by former Republican congressman Denver Riggleman recently secured $3 million in seed funding. His company, Riggleman Information and Intelligence Group, said in a November 19 press release that the money will go toward the launch of AI solutions and expanding its workforce and client support.
RIIG specializes in open-source intelligence, using AI technology to offer security and risk management for organizations across government and business sectors. In an evolving cybersecurity landscape, the firm boasts access to 17 intel agencies and collaborations with commercial and academic partners.
Funding was led by the Felton Group, a family office of Charlottesville-based hedge fund manager Jaffray Woodriff.
“RIIG applauds the support of Felton Group and their appreciation of the vision laid out for advanced AI, cyber threat identification and analysis products set for delivery in 2025,” Riggleman said in the release.
For Riggleman, the firm represents a return to his business and technology roots. He co-founded a contracting company in 2007 that supported the intelligence community and Department of Defense programs.
The Felton Group invested earlier this year in two other companies with local ties—Caju AI, a platform offering customer engagement solutions, and DoorList, an event-management application. Woodriff, a University of Virginia alum, donated $120 million to establish the university’s School of Data Science in 2019.
Welcome Home (Depot)
An increasing number of shopping centers have struggled over the last two decades, creating a “dead mall” phenomenon across the U.S. Charlottesville’s Fashion Square is no exception, and is trying to buck the trend—starting with a Home Depot set to open in summer 2025.
The home-improvement retailer announced plans for a July 2025 opening following the purchase of the shuttered Sears in September 2022. The new store will create more than 100 jobs, according to Albemarle County, and marks the first Home Depot in the area.
Although foot traffic has declined, Fashion Square sits at the busy intersection of U.S. 29 and Rio Road. Home Depot has agreed to support the county in its Rio29 plan to create a mixed-use, walkable hub at the site. In addition to the former Sears location, Home Depot purchased much of the remaining spaces in the mall for a total investment of more than $26 million.
“This public-private partnership jumpstarts the first development with speed, cleans up environmental contamination present at the site, and significantly contributes to transportation connectivity through the Rio29 area,” Albemarle County Board of Supervisors Chair Jim Andrews said during an August meeting.
Self improvement
Diving back into the headlines, UVA swimmer Gretchen Walsh bested her own American record with a time of 47.35 seconds in the women’s short course 100 butterfly at the Tennessee Invitational on November 21. An Olympic medalist, Walsh made waves earlier this year when she set the world record in the long course 100-meter fly during the U.S. Olympic trials semi-finals. She won four gold and two silver medals at the Paris Olympics, where she competed on Team USA alongside her sister Alex, also a UVA student-athlete. UVA second year and fellow Olympic medalist Claire Curzan set another American record on the last day of the meet, with a time of 1:46.87 in the 200-meter backstroke.
Location TBD
The Salvation Army is looking for a new spot for its thrift store ahead of the anticipated conversion about turning the site into a low-barrier shelter, according to a November 20 Charlottesville Tomorrow article. The creation of a low-barrier, year-round shelter has long been a top priority for city and local nonprofit leaders amid a rising unhoused and housing insecure population. Work on the shelter could begin as early as next year.
Zones of interest
In a bonus newsletter released November 21, Charlottesville City Schools shared updates about its ongoing elementary rezoning project, including the extension of the feedback period through the end of 2024. More information about potential phasing of the rezoning will be available once the community advisory committee reaches a final recommendation, according to Superintendent Royal Gurley.
Crowds rarely attend meetings of the Charlottesville Board of Architectural Review, but quite a few people showed up for a November 19 preliminary review of a potential 184-foot-tall building at the Downtown Mall site of the Violet Crown movie theater.
“I completely understand the magnitude of the importance of this property cannot be overstated,” said Jeffrey Levien of the firm Heirloom Development.
Levien has a contract to purchase the site, so he was allowed to ask the BAR for its initial thoughts on the height and massing of the proposed structure. He said the current building underutilizes a location that would be used to support the new Comprehensive Plan goal of providing more housing.
“It’s a very important first test of our code,” Levien said.
The BAR will eventually be asked to approve a certificate of appropriateness to demolish the building because it is a contributing structure to the Downtown Architectural Design Control District. It would also have to approve plans for a new building.
Jeff Werner, the city’s historic preservation planner, said little remains of the original building constructed on the site in the late 1800s. He said the BAR has approved projects with height before, such as the CODE Building, which rises to nine stories in some locations. What matters is context.
“BAR’s review is not just the building, but its relationship to the historic district as well,” Werner said.
Under the city’s new development code, the building can be up to 10 stories or 142 feet by-right. There is also a bonus provision if additional affordable units are added above the 10 percent required by the code’s inclusionary zoning provision. If the city is satisfied, the building could be 184 feet or 13 stories.
So far, Levien has not demonstrated how he would fulfill those requirements. The Office of Community Solutions would be responsible for ensuring compliance.
“The Violet Crown is a jewel,” Levien said. “But it’s a jewel that’s just become outdated as far as a business model in the world of theaters. That’s my opinion based on a lot of fact.”
In a statement released after The Daily Progress reported that closure was imminent, the company that operates Violet Crown said it is still in business and plans to continue operations as long as it has a lease.
The president of the group Preservation Piedmont reminded those in attendance that the Downtown Mall is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
“As the members of the BAR, in effect, you’re the curators of the Mall, which is our city’s special space,” said Genevieve Keller.
Keller said any demolition of a property on the Downtown Mall must be considered very carefully. She said this location, as well as a proposed hotel at 218 W. Market Street, are in what used to be the Vinegar Hill neighborhood. Levien is the principal owner of that project, which he was previously planning to develop as a nine-story residential building.
‘When an application comes in for a demo there, just down from McGuffey School, that would be taking out the last fabric left of Vinegar Hill,” Keller said.
The BAR took no action because the discussion was a pre-application conference.
Get into the holiday spirit early with Coney Island Christmas, a seasonal show that’s poised to become a classic. Pulitzer Prize-winner Donald Margulies has penned a story filled with memories and mirth that should appeal to folks of all ages and faiths. Centering on a young Jewish girl cast to play Jesus in her school’s Christmas pageant, at its core, this is a tale about what it means to be an American during the holidays.
Through 12/15. $12–20, times vary. Four County Players, 5256 Governor Barbour St., Barboursville. fourcp.org
By BJ Poss, Sarah Golibart Gorman, and Ella Powell
The simple recipe of ingredients and technique
Behind an ever-changing food scene, local cooks, mixologists, and makers are working every day to bring out the best in their fields of expertise, and teach a deeper appreciation of what grows in the backyard. From olive oil and pasta to mezcal, world cuisine, and kitchen skills, the passionate culinarians in these pages are just a few reasons why Charlottesville is a delicious place to live.
“The first step in learning to cook is building confidence in the kitchen. It’s about fostering a mindset where you’re not afraid to experiment, try new things, and even make mistakes. Cooking is an iterative process, and every “failed” dish is a learning opportunity.”
Chef Antwon Brinson, Culinary Concepts AB LLC
C-ville Bites
Pasta, gelato, and more with Chef Kelvino Barrera
“I don’t think I can imagine the number,” laughs C-ville Bites Chef Kelvino Barrera when asked to calculate how many tortellini he’s hand-rolled. Barrera, who mastered pasta rolling during his time at Pippin Hill Farm, will, along with C-ville Bites owner MJ Padilla, turn your home kitchen into a fine Italian cucina. You choose your pasta style, sauce, protein, and accompaniments, and they’ll teach you the ins and outs of pasta-making.
“One of the most interesting requests I’ve had is raviolo al’ uovo,” says Barrera, “It’s challenging to get the ravioli with the runny egg yolk just right. But when you see people get it, and their eyes light up, that’s the priceless part of the experience.”
These classes allow Barrera and Padilla to take little bits and pieces of influence, much like they do in their home kitchens, and provide “an experience not just for the guests but also for us,” Barrera says. “It’s more intimate; everybody feels comfortable coming and talking to you while you cook or asking questions.”
Barrera and Padilla both spent their early years in Honduras, with Barrera moving to Charlottesville at age 13. He got his first kitchen job as a line cook, where he fibbed his way into a meat counter job and learned how to trim steaks on the fly. He’s since run the kitchen at The Shebeen, had stints at The Bebedero and South and Central, worked a food truck, and is now running pasta, gelato, and sauce-making classes at C-ville Bites.
“I always like to put a little bit of my mom’s touch in recipes,” says Barrea, reflecting on growing up assisting his mother and grandmother in the kitchen. “It makes me feel like I’m home in my cooking.”
Along with C-ville Bites’ cooking classes, consider Padilla’s Friday and Saturday food tours, where you’ll stroll the Downtown Mall and sample some of her favorite local fare, and then enjoy a meal that is Charlottesville dining through and through.
“Don’t be afraid to burn that pot of quinoa or overcook the chicken breast. Sit down, enjoy your creation for what it is, notice what went wrong, what flavors you like, what it needs more of, and try again next week. Cooking is all about repetition, failing miserably, and just simply trying again!”
Chef Travis Burgess, Bizou /Bang /Luce Pasta
Women in olive oil
Olive Oil tasting lesson from sommelier Jill Myers
One of the greatest gifts a home chef or any admirer of quality cuisine can learn in the kitchen is that if each dish is to be enjoyed as its own entity, its contents should be considered with the same grace. Alongside the culinary staples crowding your cupboard–the flaky salt, five-pepper grinder behind a glass ramekin of dried oregano—is the sometimes overlooked foundation of many meals: olive oil.
The enviable life goal of Jill Myers, certified as an olive oil sommelier by New York’s International Culinary Center, is to increase accessibility and appreciation for the breadth of crushed and fine goodness that comes from the fruits of a Tuscan olive tree. “It’s a beautiful product,” she says. “Liquid gold.”
Myers offers tasting lessons on the history of olive oils from around the world. Her classes teach the influence of terroir and mindful pressing, and are typically held at wineries throughout the Monticello AVA, in conjunction with a wine pairing. “It’s always through wine that people love olive oil,” she says.
Olive oil and wine parallel in their growing season, in their elegant complement to the culinary experience, and in that the best production is likely resting in a glass jug tucked somewhere in an Italian countryside farmhouse. “I love the culture behind slower food processes,” says Myers as she spills out a golden shade of a Tuscan leccino from her recent Italian harvest.
Myers guides you through the nooks and crannies of the Mediterranean as she recounts conversations held at a sturdy table after a long day’s harvest. “Quality olive oil should taste like a summer garden,” she says. The care and attention it takes to cultivate worthwhile oils calls for their consumption to be paired as you would a thoughtful wine list. As Thomas Jefferson said, “The olive is surely the richest gift of heaven.”
“Learning to cook for me truly began when I delved into the history of French cuisine, which sparked an appreciation for the art of cooking, especially in a professional setting. That passion led me to connect with other chefs and ultimately to the Culinary Institute of America, where my journey took shape with foundational courses like Product Knowledge and Skills 1—covering everything from knife cuts to stocks. The skills and insights I gained during those early days have become a part of my daily life, both inside and outside the kitchen.”
Chef de Cuisine Aaron Bellizzi, Marigold by Jean-Georges
the Bebedero / mejicali
Mezcal lessons with mixologist River Hawkins
River Hawkins has made a life of conjuring, experimenting, and articulating agave delicacy. Hawkins, a mixologist and partner in The Bebedero on the Downtown Mall and Mejicali on West Main Street, offers two-hour classes for both mezcal and tequila. At your station, stocked with lime, salt, and a rarely empty 1.5 oz. glass, you’ll learn the intricacies of these spirits, their traditions, and why Hawkins pours two parts lime, one tequila, one sugar, and salts the rim. “The lime and salt excite the palate and enhance flavor,” he says. “Spirit, citrus, sugar, salt—the margarita is the quintessential cocktail.”
For every tequila drinker who shivers at the leer of the soaked worm watching from the bottom of the bottle, there is an equivalent in mezcalero that should be tried: the one buried in goat dung. The five regions of Jalisco, Mexico, produce agave that draws comparison to what Champagne is for sparkling wine.
Nuances of flavor are drawn from different appellations, aging styles, mixtos, and production within the five regions, but according to Hawkins, mezcaleros are in agreement: The blanco stage is the perfect stage; this is what tequila is supposed to taste like. Blanco is the unadulterated stage of tequila. Farmers appreciate its simplicity in retaining the essence of the purveyor’s terroir.
Hawkins’ classes teach you how to navigate the liquor store aisles and select the spirit to fit your evening. For a spirit to be considered tequila, it must be 51 percent blue agave and hail from Jalisco, Mexico. The other 49 percent is where you’ll run into over-sugared mixtos that lead to the hangover, swearing you off it. “You can find good things in any mezcal,” Hawkins says, but in selecting tequila, there is a creed that he emphatically implores: 100 percent blue agave.
Hawkins’ classes run year-round through the Bebedero, where you’ll make your own cocktail and taste test an array of spirits (snack breaks for housemade guac and elote are included). Go beyond the shot and keep an eye out for the next class and some blue agave.
“In the beginning, knowing how to measure dry or liquid ounces for savory recipes and understanding how many ounces are in a cup (8 oz.) is so key. Especially when it comes to baking, working in grams and using a digital scale will allow you to have much more control and understanding of ingredients and how they work in recipes. Baking is a science, and it really helps when your measurements are exact.”
Christina Martin, Head baker and owner of bakernobakery LLC
The Happy Cook
Tastes from around the world by chef Soledad Liendo
In a shop at Barracks Road Shopping Center there’s a narrow doorway that leads to an array of handcrafted cookware and your place among some of the world’s most notable cuisines. The back of The Happy Cook is where Soledad Liendo shares her culinary journey from her Buenos Aires home to the mastery of global cuisine.
Tickets are sold by the station, each of which accommodates two students. There’s an array of classes to choose from. Perhaps you want to perfect your knife skills or master the cuisine of Argentina. Or maybe just sign up for a seasonal course, one of which is a play on “The Bear”’s seven fishes episode. The two-hour classes lean on technique to master specific dishes amongst a full-course meal and local wine.
Liendo says her culinary journey doesn’t end when the burners cool. “Cooking, for me, is not locked in the kitchen. It’s about cooking, getting together, and enjoying a meal.”
For plenty of chefs, the pursuit of a family-worthy meal comes from the warm memories of their youth. “Gathering was the number one priority,” says Liendo. She recalls thumbing through a family cookbook put together to preserve the aromas and conversations over generations. She calls on this well of flavors to guide her popular Argentinian empanadas and alfajores classes. Liendo also navigates students through comforts from shepherd’s pie to decadent truffle pasta.
Courses at The Happy Cook, as noticed by Forbes, make for a cozy night out or gift idea. In addition, Liendo offers private lessons for small groups that are looking to hone in on a particular cuisine, and her training in French, Spanish, and Italian provides access to unique flavors of the world.
“I teach a variety of very active cooking classes here … and the first step to learning how to cook is ensuring that [students] are reading the recipes before they begin. Getting their mise en place ready before they start cooking is another crucial step. But the most important thing is to have fun with cooking. I always encourage [everyone] to play with recipes once they are comfortable. Exchanging herbs for different ones or playing with different chilis as long as they are cooking savory recipes, if they are baking they have to stick to the original recipe.”
Executive Chef Victoria Cosner, Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyard
PVCC
Technical kitchen skills
Ready to take your skills pro? Begin your professional training at Piedmont Virginia Community College, where you can get an associate’s degree in culinary arts, a culinary career studies certificate, or take a class if you’re looking to perfect a baking technique or learn to trim the whole cow.
“If you’re passionate about what you’re doing, we’ll help you get there,” says PVCC culinary arts instructor Caitlin McCabe. “Whether your goal is to open a restaurant or just get better at cooking.”
McCabe brought her degree in food service management to Virginia in pursuit of Southern hospitality, eventually becoming executive chef at The Palms in Lexington.
During their first year, students learn knife skills, the secrets of soups and stocks, and even the philosophical side of a bloody mary before noon. “We’ll break down why brunch is what it is,” says McCabe. “Aside from being fabulous.”
Along with these skills, students learn how to prepare and purchase meat and seafood to cook for a cozy, intimate gathering or a bustling chophouse that feeds hundreds. They’ll gain an understanding of mixology and have the opportunity to pursue classes like artisan bread-making—many of which McCabe is working on developing into one-day courses open to the public.
Year two of the associate’s degree includes understanding the culture of cooking. Where do international and regional cuisines come from? How does religion and historical expansion bring baguettes to South Asia or spices to England? Students will learn to collect twists of global staples and sprinkle them into a menu made for their kitchen.
McCabe emphasizes the program’s ability to accommodate any students looking to further their culinary journey. “We’re happy to be in the community, and look forward to expanding it.”—BJ Poss
“The best chefs all understand the professional kitchen from the ground up. For all cooks—casual and professional alike—the unrelenting desire to understand how a dish you love was made, assessing how it could be improved upon, and then figuring out how to do it yourself (with said improvements) is when you know you’ve officially embraced the concept of learning to cook, which is a never-ending process and constant evolution.”
Executive Chef Chuck Adcock, Rooftop Charlottesville at The Doyle Hotel
Claiming terroir
Anna Kietzerow is one of those people wholooks perfectly at home swirling a glass of wine. Fingers cradling the stem, wrist twirling, champagne rising masterfully close to the rim, Kietzerow takes a sip of vintage Alexandre Bonnet Brut Nature, remarking on how much drier and crisper it is compared to the creamier Drappier Brut we tried moments ago. If brut and vintage already feel like a foreign language, or if you’re right at home in the world of oenology, then Kietzerow is precisely who you need to meet.
A philosophy Ph.D. candidate at UVA with a passion for wine, Kietzerow co-founded Cellar Road in 2023 with her “partner in wine” Adam Wagner as a space to explore and share their knowledge with others. Last year, the duo led an educational trip to Champagne, France, immersing guests in exclusive tours of champagne houses and Michelin-starred dinners. If this sounds like your scene, stay tuned: Their next tour will explore Germany’s Moselle Valley—the region where Kietzerow first cut her teeth, or rather her taste buds, on wine.
“How I approach wine has been heavily influenced by my background in philosophy,” explains Kietzerow, who sees wine as a sensory portal to the philosophical ideas about which she’s already passionate. “My dissertation is about the topic of place, and what it means for something to be a place, and the role that place plays in our social and political lives.” If your mind jumps to terroir, you’re on the right track.
For Kietzerow, terroir goes beyond the soil, climate, and terrain of a region; it includes the winemaker’s hand and cultural essence of a place. Her next class will dive into wines of Tuscany—chianti, brunello, and the complex Super Tuscans. While chianti and brunello are made exclusively with sangiovese grapes, Super Tuscans blend sangiovese with French varietals like merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and syrah. Grown in Tuscan soil, these French grapes create a layered terroir, a “gray area” where Kietzerow thrives.
During our conversation, she introduced the sorites paradox, a classic philosophical problem that tackles vagueness. “Imagine I place a single grain of sand before you,” she says. “Is it a heap?” Of course not, but then she adds another. “Is it a heap now?” She’s onto something. When do individual grains of sand become a heap? When does sauvignon blanc from Sancerre differ meaningfully from one grown in the neighboring Loire Valley village of Pouilly-Fumé?
These are the kinds of questions Kietzerow explores as she works toward her Wine and Spirits Education Trust diploma, a challenging credential equivalent to master sommelier. When not at a UVA library, Kietzerow can be found studying at The Wine Guild of Charlottesville, tasting wines, writing descriptions, searching for quality vintages to make accessible to the Charlottesville community. And if you miss her classes or the upcoming Moselle trip, you can join Kietzerow and Wagner on Cellar Road’s podcast, which launches this month. Look out for her masterclass episode with Edouard Cossy, global director at Champagne Laurent-Perrier. It reflects on an in-depth tasting and paired dinner at The Alley Light—a rare chance to learn about champagne from someone who doesn’t just swirl the glass, but opens up the story within.—Sarah Golibart Gorman
“Don’t be afraid to make mistakes. Every time I’ve screwed something up, it’s sent me down the path to learning why I goofed, and those lessons prove invaluable as you continue cooking.”
Executive Chef Chris Humphrey, Bonny & Read
Pour your heart into Mudhouse’s coffee classes
The Mudhouse has been grinding beansfrom its local roasters since 2009. In fall 2023, the shop began offering classes, giving customers the chance to learn the art and science behind a perfect cup of joe.
Certified as Q graders by the Coffee Quality Institute, Mudhouse professionals are trained in the sensory evaluation of coffee.
“We want typical everyday drinkers to be able to come in and learn something if they’re interested,” says Lindsey Simpkins, Mudhouse’s sales and events manager.
Coffee curious students are taught a range of skills that include triangulation (mini cuppings or tastings), explorations of coffee and sound, how to work specialty equipment, and how to create latte art.
Simpkins says the latte art classes have been the most popular among the public. Not only do they offer a unique date opportunity on the first Friday of each month, the classes also introduce the basic concepts and processes that uphold the Mudhouse standard.
“When [baristas] first come in, they have to learn the difference of the fat content in milk,” says Simpkins. The higher the fat content, Simpkins notes, the more air you want to introduce into your milk while steaming.
Listening to your latte is equally important. Simpkins points out that the sounds accompanying the production of your morning pick-me-up reveal whether the blend is up to par.
“Once it’s steaming, it should sound quiet, almost like a roller coaster going up a hill,” she says. “That’s how I teach people to envision it. If it’s screaming at you, then you didn’t introduce enough air.”
In the cupping class, Mudhouse’s diverse international coffee blends are concentrated in a process of setting ground beans with hot water until they rise and form a crust that is broken for an exquisite tasting experience. This allows students to distinguish the fine details of blends originating from regions such as Ethiopia or Colombia.
“You’re able to tell where coffee comes from based on the flavor profile and acidity level,” says Simpkins. Ethiopian blends, for instance, are normally accompanied by a fruity and floral flavor with a bright acidity, while the Colombian blends are notably chocolaty and sweet. “Once you get to a more elevated level, you’re actually scoring coffee.” Aroma and acidity are broken down to explore the complexities of different coffee blends, and participants are trained to notice all of the subtleties in preparing a grade A cup of coffee.
“We have also considered the fact that some of this isn’t as simple as learning it in a 30- to 45-minute class,” says Simpkins. “So come spring of 2025, [Mudhouse] will be opening up the roaster for private classes.”
The new classes will be conducted one-on-one with professional Mudhouse roasters, and Simpkins says the expanded programming gives participants an opportunity to become true coffee connoisseurs. “I just want people who want to learn and be involved in specialty coffee to know that they have a safe place to learn. We’re going to give you all the information you need so that you can go home and be able to do what we do every day,” Simpkins says. “Hopefully other coffee shops will join suit, and if not we’ll still be here growing.”—Ella Powell