The last year has been a turbulent one on the W. Main Street corridor, and we blame the stormy weather there for the fact that our metaphors are all mixed up. One longtime fixture bit the dust (Blue Bird Café) while another rose from the ashes (Blue Moon Diner). In the Main Street Market a torch was passed from Ciboulette to Orzo. And, as we’ll explain shortly, a nearby pair of butterflies is about to emerge from their cocoons. (Stop us, please!)
The first of these winged beauties is in the former Southern Culture spot. Culture was lost to the diabolical influence of videogames and…strike that, it closed and passed into the hands of Christian Kelly (formerly of Clifton Inn) and Peter Castiglione (formerly of Zocalo) last May. At that time, says Kelly, the partners foresaw a quick transformation and an autumn reopening, but, well, those are famous last words in the restaurant biz. Here we are in February and they’re still doing construction; April’s now the target for opening. The napkins might not exactly be pressed and folded yet, but the spot does have its new name: Maya.
A chef by training, Christian Kelly (right) says that when it comes to construction, "I do what I’m told." |
It’s a family name, and it ended a torturous discussion. “Peter brought it up to me that he likes my daughter’s name,” explains Kelly. “We had been roasting over names, getting so existential it was disgusting.” Maya it was. Though one might reasonably think of another hemisphere upon hearing this moniker, one should stop it and remember that the American South, not South America is the true inspiration for the menu here.
“I’ve been doing a lot of research on Southern food and kitchens,” says Kelly. “‘Meat and threes’ is a term that they use where you choose the protein, then two or three sides.” Sides will be small, complete dishes in themselves, which you’ll mix and match with the protein entrée of your choice.
As for the remodeling, it ended up including everything from plumbing and electrical to redoing the floor plan and putting in a new cherry-wood bar. Patrons will enter through a different door than in the past; most of the seating will be upstairs.
Says Kelly, “We really opened up the proverbial can of worms.”
Multicultural
Down the street, an Asian bloom has withered and, um, a European metal will take its place. Vietnamese nightspot White Orchid is no more. There’s paper on the windows and an ABC notice on the door, along with a sign announcing the new name: Zinc.
“A zinc bar is traditional for a bistro in France,” explains co-owner Thomas Leroy, who grew up in that foodie’s paradise and is joining forces with Vu Nguyen to bring us the new spot. It’ll be a combination bistro (and Leroy has particular ideas about what that word means, being that he’s, you know, French) and British gastropub. What’s that? It’s a new take on the old Brit-pub formula, Leroy explained—essentially, same atmosphere but with better food. Confused about this gistro or bastro or whatever it is? The French part means croque monsieur and moules frites, the English part means fish ’n’ chips and shepherd’s pie. And on St. Patrick’s Day Zinc will serve corned beef and cabbage.
Whew! That’s a lot of national cuisines to keep track of, but we’re game. These guys have the chops—Leroy’s worked at Bizou, Bang and now-defunct Metropolitain, and Nguyen honed his skills at Bizou and Cassis. You can line up at Zinc’s zinc bar in early March.
Storm chasing
Recently, we reported that we suspected Monsoon had blown out of town. Not so: They were merely taking a break. We’re glad to hear it.
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