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Living

A toast to your health: Because fermented beverages can be nonalcoholic too

Fermented things scare a lot of people. Submerged veggies in dubious states of edibility are not exactly as mouthwatering as they may have been in the past, and the staple and tradition of fermented food in the human diet has declined as most of the foods in supermarkets are sterilized, pasteurized, or rendered a-biotic through other means.

With a proliferation of first-world ailments—namely a host of autoimmune disorders—a recent influx of research has focused on how fermented foods benefit gut health, and how a healthy gut might affect overall wellness. The emerging research suggests that maintaining a healthy flora of intestinal bacteria can combat a wide range of maladies, from dermatitis to colon cancer. Fermented foods and beverages, like kimchi, kombucha, sauerkraut, sour pickles, and water kefir soda, are key sources of healthy varieties of intestinal bacteria that can result in improved overall health.

Dawn Story is a local who has deep appreciation for the tradition of fermentation. Having grown up with homesteading hippies for parents, Dawn learned at an early age about fermentation and both how delicious and healthy ferments can be. She started New Moon Naturals, an herbal tea and tonic company, and found herself helping people the most by prescribing fermented foods as a focal point of a healthy diet. Encouraged by seeing the results of ferments on health, she started Farmstead Ferments, where she produces raw, naturally-fermented foods and drinks by hand. I sat down with Dawn to talk shop, health, and the difference between water kefir soda and kombucha.

Lots of folks are interested in consuming or making fermented foods, but are concerned about the safety of these foods. Are they safe? Any tips for the home fermenter?

By definition, fermented foods are foods that have undergone microbial transformation by various yeasts and bacteria, which produce beneficial acids including lactic acid. It is this high concentration of lactic acid that preserves food by destroying the harmful bacteria, which can decompose food and sometimes make you sick. The USDA has no reported cases of foodborne illness due to fermented foods, probably because E. coli 0157, salmonella, and botulism cannot exist in the acidic environments of properly fermented foods. When fermenting foods at home, you want to process fresh ingredients using clean equipment and provide the proper environment for your brews in terms of time and temperature. Follow recipes but trust your instincts. For example, if it looks like kraut, and it smells like kraut, it is probably kraut. If in doubt, pitch it and try again. Fortunately, most fermented foods are inexpensive to make.

How important are ferments in the human diet? Have you seen ferments make a big difference in the health of individuals you’ve counselled?

Fermentation is about as old as agriculture itself and some fermentation enthusiasts claim that it was the fermentation of grain into alcohol which catapulted humans from a hunter-gather society to an agrarian one. Fermenting foods was a common practice of our ancestors and was frequently how they ate before the advent of chemical preservatives and refrigeration. It was a survival technique used to secure food supplies and maintain community health in harsh living conditions.

Still today, over one third of food eaten is fermented. Think chocolate, coffee, tea, beer, wine, cheese, sour cream, yogurt, sauerkraut, miso, salami. These are some of the world’s most beloved foods! They’ve been around for a long time and remain popular today, yes, due to their intriguing tastes and aromas, but also because I believe we have a natural resonance with them due to their life-enhancing properties. Fermented foods are super-foods. That is, they are loaded with easily assimilated and digested vitamins, minerals, enzymes, amino acids and probiotics. Fermented foods also help us digest the foods they are eaten with, which is why they’re often associated with meats and heavier foods. Indeed, I have witnessed numerous improvements in the health and well-being of my friends and customers reporting improved digestion, enhanced immunity, increased metabolism, clearer skin, and clearer thinking. Modern science is proving more and more what Hippocrates knew all along —that good health starts in the gut!

What is water kefir soda and how is different from kombucha? What does it taste like? 

Water kefir soda is fermented sugar-water while kombucha is fermented sweet tea. It is a light, refreshing and effervescent beverage that can be flavored with a wide variety of fruits and herbs. Right now, we are playing with apples and herbs like hibiscus, nettle, lemongrass and elderberry. The sodas can be found locally at Rebecca’s, and the water kefir starter grains will be available soon. Kombucha enthusiasts who wish to give home brewing a try can pick up a kombucha starter culture at Rebecca’s, Whole Foods, and Fifth Season Garden Supply. Our website lists the many locations to find our krauts and kraut juices.

What’s your favorite fermi-bev this time of year?

Right now, I’m downing a lot of kraut juice shots from summer batches of Salsa Kraut. Pickle juice shots, too. For something more nourishing and filling, I fill a mug with fresh, hot broth, which is always bubbling in our kitchen, and add a shot of Garlicky Greens Kraut Juice. This warming, immune-boosting combo is just the right thing on cold mornings to get the life force going. On special occasions, I like to serve up some gorgeous red hibiscus water kefir soda in my prettiest, vintage glasses. And for brunch, Kimchi Bloody Marys anybody? Just drop a shot of kimchi juice into Bloody Mary mix and boom! It’s easy to enhance any beverage with a blast of probiotic goodness.

Categories
Living

Punch bowl: Dusting off the tradition of the communal beverage

Before the water cooler, there was the punch bowl. The bowl contained the original social medium—a beverage spiked with alcohol—and it brought people together. Groups of people congregated around the bowl, catching up on gossip, making merry, and enjoying one another’s company.

Sumerian art from as early as the 3rd century BC reveals that it’s been around for thousands of years, depicting ancient Mesopotamians drinking beer from a shared bowl with straws. The contents of the bowl have changed over the years as breakthroughs in alchemy in the 15th century brought a swift “punch” to the beverage, and the subsequent Western colonial period in the 16th and 17th centuries saw a massive proliferation of both distilled spirits and sugarcane, which ultimately gave birth to the era of the personal cocktail. In the ensuing centuries, drinkers could then hunch over their single-dram drinks instead of rubbing elbows with their neighbors; the communal bowl and the age of a the shared beverage experience was in decline.

Thanks to the bookish bartender of the 21st century, the historical cocktails from the communal bowl are making a comeback and being reinvented to boot. There is no better time to have this discussion than when the communal beverage is most relevant—during the holidays. Germans congregate over gluhwein, Americans over eggnog, Brits over wassails, the French over vin chaud, Norseman over glogg, and so on. Most cultures recognize that the nature of a communal beverage shares the spirit of the Holy Days of Winter: bringing people together to share in each other’s lives. Modern bartenders, being both academic and economical, realize that making these communal punches is not only a precedented social service, but it is also a great way to make a large quantity of drinks for many people to enjoy at once. The communal bowl is the perfect way to throw a party and encourage your guests to be social.

I checked in with some local drink craftsmen to see what is filling their bowls this time of year.

Mmm…rum punch.

Tyler Hudgens
Cocktail enthusiast and protégé of drinkmaster Nick Crutchfield from Commonwealth Restaurant

“Punch is one of my favorite things to make and drink,” Hudgens said. “It’s easy and communal and festive and just makes me want to celebrate. I guess a punch for me is the sound of a champagne cork popping for a lot of people. It makes everything merry and bright.”

Tyler’s winter warmer punch

Combine equal parts: Sherry (try Lustau Manzanilla cream sherry), Appleton 12 Year, Peaty scotch (like Laphroig, Ardbeg, or Pig’s Nose), honey or honey liqueur, water (“Trust me, this is boozy,” Hudgens said. “And we aren’t stirring ice into it for dilution like we do for your Manhattans and such.”)

Turn on the crock pot and warm your mixture on low-medium heat. Ladle into a punch glass (if you don’t have one don’t fret; a rocks glass or snifter work just as nicely) and garnish with an orange peel studded with cloves. Just poke three or four cloves right into the skin of the orange in a fun pattern.

Christian Johnson
Bar manager at Blue Light Grill

Johnson has been riffing on gluhwein, the German-style mulled wine that is enjoyed communally in open-air markets throughout the holidays in many parts of Europe. Gluhwein is the perfect low-alcohol, warm beverage to sip as the cold of winter sets in.

“The punch is well-rounded with citrus notes, and the earthy tea-like nature and sweetness are subtle and do not overwhelm the palate,” Johnson said.

Dillard’s gluhwein weiss

Dillard’s gluhwein weiss, courtesy of Blue Light’s Christian Johnson, is a sweet, tart, and spicy winter punch. Photo: Elli Williams

1 1/2 bottles of Barboursville Riesling, 1 cup sugar, 1 cup honey, 1/2 cup lemon juice, 1 1/2 cups water, 4″ sprig rosemary, 2″ cinnamon stick, 1/2 tsp. clove, 1/4 tsp. cardamom

Coarsely grind the cardamom and clove, and combine all ingredients in a non-reactive pot. Bring to a gentle simmer and cover for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and strain. Garnish with rosemary sprig and lemon wheel. Serves five to six.

As the holidays approach, don’t forget the rich history of humans taking a moment to share both a beverage and their company. If making a batch is too much work, belly up to a bar in town. The bartenders will be happy to see you and share a pour from their bowl with you.

“Punch is one of my favorite things to make and drink,” said Tyler Hudgens. “It’s easy and communal and festive and just makes me want to celebrate.”

Categories
Living

Foggy Ridge’s Diane Flynt crafts cider from heirloom apples

Cider is not on the mind of most diners and tipplers when they’re out on the town. In fact, most people may be surprised to know that the cider industry in the United State is currently experiencing an explosion of craft beer proportions. It’s easy to imagine winemakers as slight Frenchmen, or beer brewers as stocky, bearded, and Carhartt-clad. But who are these folks who are making cider? History enthusiasts? Foodies? Scientists? Philosophers? Or seasoned farmers?

Diane Flynt of Foggy Ridge Cider is a bit of all of the above. Her passion for crafting Virginia cider with heirloom apple varieties is fueled by her combined love of farming, history, the science of fermentation, and a strong desire to renew the legacy of a once-forgotten drink. Her nurturing and outgoing personality struck me as so benevolent and maternal, that I couldn’t help but think of her as The Matron Saint of The Orchard. I sat down with the Cider Saint to pick her brain about all things apple and cider.

C-VILLE Weekly: As the market for craft and local beer/wine/spirits expands, why cider? Was there a “eureka!” moment that got you into making cider? 

Diane Flynt: For me, cider began—and continues—in the orchard. I love growing trees, knowing that my apple trees will produce delicious fruit long after I’m gone. People sometimes forget that cider is first and foremost an agricultural product, fermented from fruit, not brewed from dried ingredients mixed with water. Great cider demands high quality ingredients and the challenge of growing great fruit. Doing my best to get those nuanced and complex flavors in the bottle is the best part of cidermaking.

What is your approach to making a batch of cider? Do you have an idea of what the finished product should be like?

While there are some interesting single varietal ciders out there (think Steve Wood at Farnum Hill in New Hampshire), I think cider is best made from blends of different apple varieties, each with a unique contribution. At Foggy Ridge, we ferment many tanks of a variety of apples; we use several different yeasts depending on the apple variety, and we use slightly different fermentation protocols for different apples. For example, some tanks are fermented at lower temperatures than others. Then we age our finished cider for several months, and finally we create the blends. This is a time consuming and complex way to make cider but one that, I believe, results in layers of flavors that can’t be equaled in bottling a single ferment.

As homebrewers know, yeast plays a vital part in the flavor of a fermented beverage. How do you select your yeast strain to optimize the flavor of your ciders? How much does yeast impact the flavor of your finished product? 

This may sound like heresy, but I think home cidermakers (not brewers; cider is fermented not brewed!) overestimate the effect of yeast on cider. Yes, yeast is very important and we use several yeast strains at Foggy Ridge, and we constantly experiment. That said, many other factors contribute to the flavor of finished cider such as temperature and nutrient levels. I have always used temperature as a key tool in cidermaking—our stainless steel tanks are temperature controlled and we ferment at fairly low temperature. So we need yeast strains that function well at 48 to 52 degrees F. Also, since my focus is on growing and sourcing complex cider apples, I want to express the flavor of the fruit, not create new flavors through yeast activity. Many home cidermakers don’t have access to true cider apples with tannin and complex flavors, so they may have to resort to yeast that plays a larger role in flavor than I’d choose with our great apples.

What is your personal favorite cider apple variety and why? 

Tom Burford [of Albemarle Cider Works] says his favorite apple is the “last one I ate.” I’m tempted to say my favorite cider apple is the last one I fermented, but let me list a few —for tannin, I love Tremlett’s Bitter and Dabinett, two wonderful English cider apples full of soft tannin, good acid, and lots of full flavor. I also like russetted apples, cider apples with what the old timers call “rusty coats.” Ashmead’s Kernel is a favorite and I’d have an orchard full of this apple. I also like the earthy notes that come from Roxbury Russett, the first named American apple. Everyone in Virginia likes Hewe’s Crab, and we have a big planting of this tiny apple that packs a big wallop of flavor. We do use some “eating apples” that contribute to cider blends, like Stayman. But I think the future of fine cider is in the complex apple varieties grown for making cider.

What is your favorite part of your job?

My two most favorite aspects of making cider are also stylistic opposites—first, working with talented chefs, sommeliers, shop owners and bartenders in all our markets, from New York to Alabama. I learn from these food and beverage professionals every day. And, second, walking in our orchards at Foggy Ridge Cider, by myself…checking on my trees, taking notes, tasting apples, looking at growth patterns and just being close to powerful growing trees.

Where would you like your business to go in the future? 

Foggy Ridge Cider is distributed in eight states and we don’t really want to grow to more markets, just continue to deepen relationships in our current markets. I’ll feel successful when more people drink well made artisan cider more often, and when there are more cider apples orchards!

Cider Week will feature eight Virginia cideries through events, workshops, and dinners in and around Charlottesville and Richmond on November 15-24. For more info, visit ciderweek va.com.

Categories
Living

Three cheers for Three Notch’d: A new beer spot makes its mark in the local craft brew lineup

“Of course a macrobeer can’t compete with a craft brew!” I couldn’t agree more. What is surprising, however, is that I agree with Heineken CEO Jean-Francois Van Boxmeer, in a quote from this past August on beveragedaily.com. He went on: “Craft beers have been taking the lion’s share of beer market growth over the last decade—practically exclusively.” That has indeed been the trend in the David and Goliath story of Craft vs. Big Beer.

After Prohibition, the United States beer industry was totally sacked. Up to that point in U.S. zymurgic history, the overwhelming majority of beer was produced by local or regional brewers, and most folks enjoyed what was made in their own area. In 1887, there were over 2,000 breweries nationally, most quenching the thirst of those in watershed. When Prohibition ended in 1933, the number or breweries briefly spiked, then atrophied as larger brewers started buying out their competitors or pushing them to unprofitable corners of the market. In the late 1970s, only 44 craft breweries remained, and it appeared that the U.S. was headed for a beer market with five main players, each peddling bland lagers that were nearly indistinguishable from one another. And then, something interesting happened: The economics of taste began to transform the market. Flavorful ales started gushing out of craft breweries over the next 35 years, infuriating Big Beer and getting Americans equally fired up about craft beer. The trend has most definitely pervaded our area, as we have 60 craft breweries in our state, and now three within walking distance for most townies.

Last year, Charlottesville welcomed the finely crafted ales of Champion Brewing Co., and this September, we welcome Three Notch’d Brewing Co. Named after the famed route linking Richmond and Charlottesville, Three Notch’d focuses on craft ales that take their names from the pages of C’ville history—like the 40-mile IPA and the Hydraulion Red. Owner Scott Roth and brewmaster Dave Warwick fit the craft mold of intrepid beer lovers—advocates for taste and small players in the ever-growing beer market.

I stopped by the brewery to talk beer over a pint of their Trader Crystal-Hopped Saison.

How did you get into brewing? Was there a beer that gave you a Eureka moment?

Dave: There definitely was. “Honey Bear Brown” at North Country Brewing Co. in Slippery Rock, Pennsylvania. I was celebrating finishing my very last final exam of my college career on a beautiful May afternoon in the backyard of their brewpub. A combination of my experience in the beer industry, the malt complexity and smoothness of Sean McIntyre’s brown ale, along with my brand new college degree, led to the epiphany that brewing was the next endeavor I wanted to pursue.

What’s in your fridge right now?

Dave: All local. I’ve been so excited to get to know the Charlottesville area’s brew scene since I moved here in May, that’s all I’ve been drinking lately. Currently, 8-Point IPA from Devils Backbone, Legend’s Brown Ale, and Blue Mountain’s Kolsch.

Scott: Same here. Currently I have a six-pack of Devils Backbone Vienna Lager and of course a growler of Hydraulion Irish Red.

Tell us about your homebrewer’s pilot system.

Scott: The pilot system is something we really wanted to focus on during this project. We admittedly went a little overboard, but hats off to the Fermentation Trap (a locally owned homebrew shop) for working with us on such a great system. The two goals for this 55-gallon system are simple. First, we want to make unique beers that we can offer in the tasting room and receive feedback on. Second, we want to use the system to engage our local homebrew community. We will be starting a regular rotation of home brewers coming in to work with Dave, and at the completion of their recipe, we will feature it in our taproom. It’s a great way for local beer fans to showcase their talents and also learn more about the production side from a professional like Dave. If you’re interested in brewing with him, please reach out to us via our website or Facebook page.

How have you tried to structure your business to overcome some of the disadvantages of being a smaller brewery?

Scott: We really wanted to focus on Charlottesville first. Our taproom and production facility are in the heart of the city and we think the visibility and the fact that we are just here for the beer will make local restaurants all the more excited about carrying Three Notch’d. In addition, we’ve started out with a distributor that only carries our brand. There is a lot of rising competition and this strategy allows Central Virginia Distributing to put its full attention towards developing our story and hopefully getting us on taps all over town. Obviously we hope to outgrow Charlottesville, and when that time comes then we will need the size and strength of one or more of the other fine distributors in the state to help us out.

Any advice to aspiring brewers?

Scott: If you get the chance to be a part of a business like ours, take it. Coming to work is exciting and every day something different is going on. If you can’t make it a profession, homebrew. It’s relatively inexpensive, and who knows? Someday soon you might be brewing with Dave Warwick and have one of your recipes featured in the Three Notch’d taproom!

Micah LeMon, formerly the bar manager at Blue Light Grill, is the current bar manager at Pasture.

 

Try it out

Three Notch’d is located at 946 Grady Ave. and is open Tuesday-Thursday 4-10pm, Friday 3-11pm, Saturday noon-11pm, and Sunday noon-8pm.