Categories
Living

A Clockwork Grape

Making wine is incredibly scientific and complicated, yet its marketing still emphasizes the pastoral. The country estate, the family dog, the dirty hands and worn Barbour jacket; it’s farming as reimagined by F. Scott Fitzgerald. The truth is that today’s winemakers might just as easily wear lab coats as Carhartts. The head-on collision between nature and science at the heart of winemaking is exemplified by Silicon Valley-funded wineries like Clos de la Tech and Vineyard 29, but it also happens CRASH! BANG! every day at Madison’s Acorn Hill Winery.


Get mobile: All the machines at Acorn Hill’s winery can be wheeled into any configuration a winemaker can dream of.

Acorn Hill is huge. The farm totals 300 acres, 40 of which are scored with vines. Scattered amongst the grapes are 25’-tall towers with propellers mounted on top—wind machines that automatically turn on when the weather threatens frost, engines rumbling like Harley-Davidsons, and blades blurring with head-chopping speed, to warm the air around the vines.

Frantz Ventre, looking, with his small rectangular glasses, more like a Bauhaus architect than a winemaker, grew up in Bordeaux, France, where he began working in the vineyards at 16. His life’s passion brought him to Virginia in 1996, and now at Acorn Hill he’s cranking the wind machine to top speed just for fun.


Don’t stop wining: Frantz Ventre began working in the vineyards of Bordeaux, France, when he was 16 years old, and came to Virginia in 1996 to continue in the biz.

Acorn Hill’s winery is 26,000 square feet of silver and gray; the snaking air ducts and rows of chrome fermenting tanks seeming to stretch on for miles. From the moment the grapes are brought in from the vineyard, they are bounced along vibrating sorting tables and up conveyer belts. Motorized winches carry steel bins along overhead tracks, emptying their contents into the tanks, where the juice is punched down, not by a traditional wooden staff, but by a spring balanced electric device that looks like it could shoot laser beams. All of the machines are mobile, able to be wheeled into any configuration a winemaker can dream of. The system is so well oiled it’s possible for the entire process to be run by two people.

Below, on the second of three floors, a laptop displays all 40 of the custom-made, $15,000 fermentation tanks: their temperature, what grape varietal they contain, and what stage of the winemaking process each one is in. Should he choose to, Ventre could monitor and control the condition of each tank from home. It’s all adaptable and controllable and the winery resembles an assembly line at an automobile factory.

But Ventre likes to inject some chaos into the system. Since coming to Virginia, he has been experimenting with wild yeast fermentation. “It’s fun,” he says, “but it’s risky winemaking.” Grapes in the vineyard are covered with naturally occurring, “wild” yeasts; a grab bag of ambient strains that float in the air. Most winemakers circumvent these indigenous yeasts by adding a single, cultured yeast, carefully chosen for its particular properties the way a DJ chooses a beat.

Wild yeast fermentation takes much longer and the results are unpredictable. But when done right the wines can be fascinating, “like a firework of complexity and flavors,” Ventre says. “Sometimes you lose a barrel…[but] that’s the beauty of it. You never know what’s going to happen in the end.”

Ventre tells a story about tasting wine from two different French producers, one high-tech and large, producing 300,000 cases a year (Acorn Hill’s max is about 25,000), and the other a tiny, organic winery. The first, he says, was technically great, but the second “had a soul.” What he’s doing at Acorn Hill is “trying to find a balance between those two worlds.”

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News

Former addict gets Cavalier encore

He hadn’t received this much applause from a UVA crowd in 34 years, and hadn’t had this much attention “since the police in the Bahamas weren’t real thrilled about me trying to bring marijuana into their country.” In those 34 years, he went from being a basketball star to being practically homeless, from being a millionaire to stealing money from his mother’s purse. Standing on a makeshift stage in the ballroom of Newcomb Hall, 6’8" with size 15 feet, he looked out at the couple hundred people sitting awkwardly close together in front of him and said, “My name is Gus Gerard and I’m a drug addict and alcoholic.”


Former UVA basketball player—and former cocaine addict—Gus Gerard found a way to entertain an audience as he told the story of his descent from NBA riches into drug-induced poverty.

When Gerard arrived at UVA in the early ’70s, he was a poor white boy from Uniontown, Pennsylvania, who played “way above the rim.” When he left UVA his junior year to go pro, he was a 21-year-old paid $900,000 to play basketball. But when he hit the NBA, he found cocaine, and from then on he was basically just a cokehead: He played and got high, or went to Vegas and got high, or lied to his wife and got high, and soon the money was gone, and he was watching his wife get arrested for the bad checks he’d written on her account so he could get high.

Gerard’s April 7 talk, presented by Hoos in Recovery, a support group for UVA faculty, students and alums, was as much a mass 12-step meeting as it was a typical lecture. Although many in the crowd were probably there to fulfill the alcohol/substance abuse program requirement that all student athletes and fraternity/sorority members have, there were clearly former addicts in the house, and friends of addicts, and maybe current addicts as well. Gerard was a very likeable host, his face behind his bushy mustache and under his UVA cap turning red when he laughed. It turned darker when he teared up as he described the suicide attempt that finally set him on the road to his 15 years of sobriety.

But mostly Gerard laughed, and we laughed, and he appeared to end his talk by saying, “Don’t give up on anyone…I love you.” But then, as the crowd applauded, he said, “One more thing…there’s this old drunk guy sitting in a diner—” and Gerard told a joke, and then another one, and it became abundantly clear that after 34 hard years, with a new job as CEO of the Houston-based treatment program Extended Aftercare Inc., Gus Gerard is finally a happy man.

C-VILLE welcomes news tips from readers. Send them to news@c-ville.com.

Categories
Living

The pursuit of happiness   

A 46-year-old Thomas Jefferson seemed different when he returned to America after five years in France, stepping off the boat wearing “silk suits, ruffles, and an unusual topaz ring.” In Paris, living, as Patrick Henry put it, “in splendor and dissipation,” our man TJ really came into his own. Reading John Hailman’s 2006 book, Thomas Jefferson on Wine, I learned that we owe our third President for much more than a great university and a few important documents. Jefferson, it turns out, was America’s Founding Foodie.

As American Minister to France, Jefferson led the life of the bobo gourmet, pontificating on the quality of pork (“…they find that the small hog makes the sweetest meat…”), discussing breakfast (“Remarkably fine bread here…”), and ordering wine, sometimes under great duress (“…I now find myself with a pressing need…send me immediately 250 bottles of wine…let the price be what it has to be…”). Traveling through the wine regions of France and Germany, Jefferson fell in love with the sweet wine of Chateau d’Yquem (now hundreds of dollars per half-bottle), the reds of Chateau Haut-Brion (where a bust of the great man watches over the barrel room), and, of course, Champagne (although he preferred it without bubbles). As he traveled, he bought, amassing a wine cellar in Paris that numbered well over 2,000 bottles. Not that this presented a problem. TJ’s pal Ben Franklin probably drank up more than his share; by 1785 Franklin was so plagued with gout from his excessive eating and drinking that he had to leave France. He was carried out of Paris on a litter donated by King Louis XVI.

Once back in the U.S. of A., Jefferson set about ensuring that his presidency would be a heavily gustatory one. He spent almost $146,000 on food over his eight years in office (out of a total earnings of $200,000). On what, you ask. Check out the shopping list for an 1807 feast for the Tunisian ambassador: 120 pounds of beef, 90 pounds of mutton, 35 pounds of veal, 27 pounds of pork, three turkeys, 30 “small birds,” 204 eggs, 25 pounds of butter, 30 pounds of rice, and assorted vegetables. Wine? Jefferson not only had a wine cellar dug beneath the White House, but according to Hailman, he spent $3,200 on wine each year during his first term—this at a time when Champagne cost 75 cents a bottle. 

Jefferson went to great lengths all his life to have olive oil, anchovies, pasta, and of course wine sent over from Europe. Hailman’s book goes to great lengths as well—400 pages to be exact—documenting every bottle. It’s a tedious, but nonetheless remarkable portrait of our town’s patron saint as seen through the long, narrow lens of his obsession. Jefferson, I think, would love Charlottesville today. Can’t you just see him? Making wine, growing organic heirloom tomatoes, a “Buy Fresh, Buy Local” bumper sticker on his hybrid?

Our Founding Foodie turns 265 April 13, and in this election year it would do us well to ponder a president who knew what truly mattered in life. Seven years before his death, in a letter to a doctor who asked how he remained so healthy, Jefferson outlined his diet and then added, “I double however, the Doctor’s glass and a half of wine, even treble it with a friend.” When he died, Hailman writes, “his wine cellar was filled with nearly fifty cases of good wines with a new shipment en route.” We should all be so lucky.

Categories
Living

Judge not!

The eight judges arrived at Keswick Hall at 9am on a beautiful day last week and, except for lunch and two small breaks, didn’t stop tasting wine until around 3:40pm. This year’s Monticello Wine Cup competition featured 95 wines—soon to adorn tasting rooms and be bragged about in newsletters—from the Monticello AVA (the American Viticultural Area centered on Charlottesville), all but five of which received medals. There were eight gold medal winners and of those, the King Family 2006 Petit Verdot was anointed the top dog. Is it the best wine in the area? I don’t know. But it’s very, very good.

After the sixth and seventh flights of wines, the judges had to pause and utter a collective “Damn!” The quality of the red wines was staggering. Virginia whites used to outshine the reds, if only because it was easier to mask their flaws. But in the past 10 years, a combination of successive good vintages, maturing vines and rapidly growing knowledge has resulted in a real red wine renaissance in our state.


The aftermath: Of the 95 bottles of wine featured at the Keswick Vineyards Monticello Wine Cup, only five didn’t win a medal of some kind.

When the judging was over, a small group of winemakers and assorted industry folks gathered around a long wooden table covered with 20′ of open wine bottles; an all-you-can-taste display of the 95 entrants. As we greedily stained our teeth purple, I asked Jefferson Vineyards’ young winemaker, Andy Reagan, what he thought of competitions. “They’re inherently flawed,” he replied.

I agree. There are a million reasons why a wine might not do well at a competition, which means that 90 percent of what happens at a competition is bullshit. Many worthy wines get silver, but only worthy wines win gold. I tasted the eight gold medalists and the judges got it right. But there is undoubtedly some gold hidden in the mountain of silver.

Then there’s the question of the people doing the judging. “It’s just too hard to have people taste so many wines,” Andy said. Ninety five wines is a lot; at wine 50 you start to forget the subtle nuances of wine number one. At wine 70 your mouth starts to feel like you’ve been chewing on clay. Not that subtle nuances get noticed. Competitions favor big, showy wines with lots of fruit; wines that have the power to override palate fatigue and boredom. Elegance is not rewarded.

Neither, generally, is age. “It’s almost a shame to taste these wines,” Chad Zakaib, Jefferson’s general manager, said about the 2005 and 2006 reds in the competition. Mark Golub, the organizer of this year’s Monticello Cup, says much the same thing. Eighty to 90 percent of the wines are excellent, he told me, but in two or three years they’ll be perfect. (Continuing what they started with last year’s Governor’s cup, Barboursville entered an older wine, the 2001 Octagon, winning a gold.)

But the biggest problem with wine competitions is that, unlike a tennis player or a basketball team, wines are generally not made with direct comparison to others in mind. Wines are unique and solitary creatures; forced combat seems almost sinful.

Still, it’s a cab eat cab world, and competitions are not all bad.

“The best wines in the state are made in Charlottesville,” Reagan told me, “so to have your wines go up against the best in the state will show you where you stack up.” He pauses. “Plus, I won a gold medal.”

The 2008 Monticello Cup Gold Medal winners; an excellent snapshot of the wine being made right now in our town:

  • King Family Petit Verdot 2006 (overall winner)
  • Barboursville Octagon 2001
  • Jefferson Petit Verdot Reserve 2005
  • Veritas Cabernet Franc Reserve 2006
  • King Family Meritage 2006
Categories
Living

A moveable feast

How do you remove the snobbery and elitism that underlies the wine world? A liberal application of wine itself. “A Spring Dinner to Benefit Meals on Wheels,” the invitation said. For 30 years, Meals on Wheels has been bringing food and companionship to people who cannot otherwise get them, and now it was their turn to do so for their volunteers (and a stowaway wine journalist) with one great meal to celebrate hundreds of life-sustaining ones.

The party was held two weeks ago at the Colonial-era Silver Thatch Inn and featured wines from local wineries Cardinal Point and First Colony. “Oh god, not Virginia wines,” was my first thought, because despite my great love of local vino, at heart I’m a French and Italian wine snob. It was going to be an evening of old people talking about charity work, accented by wines I’ve drunk many times before. I braced myself for a boring night.

There is a schism in the wine world between those who feel wine should be judged solely by what’s in the glass, and those who feel that wine is, at its heart, meant to be part of a meal. This is an argument you hear routinely between, for example, lovers of Australian Shiraz, a wine that’s hard to distinguish from rum and Coke, and fans of more subtle wines like Loire Valley Cabernet Francs, where the fruit is buried in layers of chalk and stone. Online message boards routinely feature discussions on this subject, especially as it relates to wine ratings, as most wine critics contend that in order to accurately arrive at a numerical score, they must taste in what they regard as a professional environment; presumably a sterile room with a sink, a wine glass and a row of bottles. Sip, spit, evaluate. All that matters is what’s in the glass; everything else is a distraction.

Well, it was not a boring night, and when I reached the car at the end of the evening, I realized that my prejudices had been entirely, and delightfully, shattered. The welcoming glass of 2006 Viognier from Cardinal Point was excellent—un-oaked and without the syrupiness that often mars other Viogniers. Mike Woolard, who owns the Virginia-only distributing company, Commonwealth Wines, oversaw the wine and food combinations to perfection. Two examples: Cardinal Point’s Meursault-like Barrel Select Chardonnay with a crawfish cake on a bed of new potato straw, and their Cabernet Franc Reserve, which, surprisingly, paired better with the accompanying spring pea risotto and forest mushrooms than with the nevertheless excellent flank steak.

On their own, none of the wines—save perhaps the Viognier—would have impressed me, but as part of a harmonious whole, they were glorious. That whole extended to my tablemates, who turned out to be lively and intelligent, with conversation ranging from organic farming to Democratic politics. Yes, they were my elders, but we found plenty in common, including the local wine scene. One, for instance, was a retired neurologist who now runs an eight-acre vineyard and whose daughter-in-law is a local winemaker. You never know where wine will take you, and in our town you never know where you’ll find good wine and wine people.

Wine never truly blossoms in a vacuum. Just as decanting a wine can wake it up and bring to light what was lurking in the bottle, pouring a bottle into a social setting, even if the society is just you and a favorite book, is the only way to really know the value of what’s inside. Forget the sterile room and the sink, and most especially forget the numbers. What’s in the glass is usually only as good as what surrounds it.

Categories
Living

The Collector [with video]

Can you picture a time when our town didn’t have a wine bar on every corner? Paul Gaston can.

“When we first came [to Charlottesville],” says the emeritus UVA history professor, “we would go to a reception at the home of the chairman of the department, and the only thing served would be Bourbon and Scotch, and maybe martinis. You wouldn’t have found a bottle of wine."

Since he arrived here in 1957 to teach Southern history, Gaston’s involvement with the local Civil Rights Movement has been justly celebrated: helping to coordinate Martin Luther King’s 1963 visit; getting beaten up and arrested at a local sit-in; working to reopen the public schools during Massive Resistance; writing the 1970 classic, The New South Creed; being honored by the NAACP; and more. At 80, he is still politically active, holding fundraisers for local democrats like Al Weed (where Gaston pours generous quantities of wine). One of the most important aspects of his life, however, has yet to be documented.

Paul Gaston giving a tour of his wine cellar.

“In the early ’60s,” he says, “a student wrote a profile on me for one of the student magazines, and after it came out I remarked to the editor that his reporter didn’t have the searching curiosity that I would expect in a good reporter. He said, ‘What do you mean?’ I said, ‘Well, he never found out that one of my favorite hobbies is collecting and drinking wine.’”

“Growing up in southern Alabama,” Gaston says, “there were Scuppernong [grapes], which I plucked from my aunt’s grape arbor when I mowed the lawn. I had never had a glass of wine, red, white, rosé or any other color, until I went to college.”
In the early 1950s, newly married, Gaston traveled to Europe and fell in love with French wine. Returning stateside, he tried unsuccessfully to find those same wines in Charlottesville.

“There was no place to buy wine here. Foods of All Nations had a few wines, but there were no wine stores.”

But at Central Liquors in Washington, D.C., Gaston found some of the same wines he’d drunk in France selling for 79 cents a bottle. Thrilled, he bought several and showed them to a neighbor who knew a little bit more about wine. The neighbor handed him an article by wine writer Alexis Lichine. “It blew my mind,” Gaston said.


The expenses of raising children led Paul Gaston to stop collecting wine during the ’70s, “but then in 1983 I said, ‘Well hell, I’m only going to go around once, and I might as well start collecting again.’”

And so a wine collector was born. “Within a couple of years I had maybe 30 bottles. …I got a little bit obnoxious about the subject of wine. I used to talk to people at the table when they would come to dinner, and tell them about the wine, what the chateau was, and what its peculiarities were. I had red marks on my shin from my wife kicking me.”

Gaston’s cellar peaked at about 800 bottles; these days it’s a bit less. “I always thought it was ironic,” his daughter Chinta told me, “that someone who grew up in modest circumstances in Alabama and is such a populist would be such a wine connoisseur.” But to visit Gaston in his wine cellar is to see a man in the place where he’s perhaps most happy (“Whenever I can’t find Paul,” his wife says, “I look down in the cellar”). 

“I’ve had a lot of memorable wines,” he says, “but some stand out. I remember once when Mary was away…I cooked up a hamburger on the grill outside—it was
summertime—and onions, and maybe just a little bit of garlic, and I drank a bottle of a premier cru Volnay. I still remember the taste of that Volnay.

“I’ve drunk great wines since then…and if I was to taste any of those again I would say, ‘Oh, I know you.’”

Categories
Living

The Vine Whisperer

Grapevines are everywhere Chris Hill goes. The first thing he says, standing tall and white-haired beneath the great terraced slopes of Delfosse Vineyards, wearing a Virginia Tech hat and aviator sunglasses, is “Are you familiar with how a grapevine grows, Toby?” Not really, and so at 9am on a chilly February morning, one of Virginia’s premier vineyard consultants begins to explain to me what he has spent almost 30 years perfecting
.
A typical day for Hill might involve getting a call from a winery that has a problem and needs his advice, or he might get a call from a winery that wants to avoid problems. He might have meetings with vineyard managers about spraying schedules, or about when to prune. Sometimes he gets asked to advise wannabe winery owners as to whether the land they’ve chosen is good for grape growing. If it’s a terrible site, he tells them, and they get angry, even though he’s saved them thousands of dollars and a lot of heartbreak.


“Everything in nature wants to eat grapes,” says vineyard consultant and grape grower Chris Hill. “It’s a war out there.”

Fifty-eight years old, Hill was born and raised in Virginia. He did a stint in the army after college, and was a social worker in Charlottesville for a time, before getting a second B.A. and an M.A. in horticulture from Tech. He returned to the Charlottesville area and, in 1981, planted his first grapevines at Glendower, an estate near Scottsville. He still maintains that vineyard today. About 13 years ago, he got serious about consulting. He is currently one of maybe five people in the state whose sole business is to help you grow grapes, and he does it for a dozen vineyards, most in Albemarle.
 
“In every endeavor it’s human nature to simplify things. …I complicate things because that’s my job,” he says. His job is grapes—perhaps the most complicated crop regularly grown in Virginia. “You can’t make any mistakes,” he says. Hill’s job is to prepare his clients for the mistakes and many disasters they don’t foresee, like frost, hurricanes, and the microclimates that make one vineyard get 3" of rain and another 17. Ultimately, he says, “It all comes down to the weather. …We can get as much rain in one week as some [places] get in a year.”

More grapes are grown in Albemarle than anywhere else in Virginia, and as Hill and I spend the day driving the county from grapevine to grapevine, I watch him engage in highly technical conversations with all sorts of people, from Spanish-speaking laborers to winery owners. He’ll lean against a pickup truck, or study a gnarled vine, his mild manner belying the fact that Chris Hill may be one of the most important people in Albemarle County. Grapevines are everywhere, and few people know them better than he does. Guys like Hill tie this industry together. They connect the dots between French winery owners, wealthy D.C. businessmen, and Virginia farm boys. Chris “Turtle” Zwadlo, the vineyard manager at the spanking new Greenwood winery Pollak Vineyards, is one of many local grape growers who turn to Hill to keep them out of trouble and ensure good fruit. “He’s as much of a mentor,” Zwadlo says, “as a consultant.”

As I prepare to take my leave at the end of a long day working with grapevines, I ask Hill what he’s got planned for the rest of the day. “I like going and doing my own pruning,” he says. On a beautiful, sunny, 50-degree February day, “you out in your vineyard pruning. …It’s a great place to be.”

Categories
Living

The Smiths is Dead

A little before 6pm Friday night, walking up Third Street Downtown, I see a man who looks a lot like Morrissey getting out of a Hyundai Santa Fe. His hair is styled in a proper Teddy Boy quiff and he’s wearing a very British duffel coat, the kind Paddington Bear always wore. If I squint, it could almost be the iconic, adored, former front man for The Smiths, but it’s not, it’s the lead singer for Girlfriend in a Coma, a Smiths/Morrissey tribute band from Baltimore. It’s cold and getting dark as he slings a hanger with a sport coat and silk shirt over his shoulder and heads down to Gravity Lounge to begin pretending to be a legend.


Bigmouth strikes again: Christopher Quinn writhes on the floor, Morrissey-style, in homage to the Smiths frontman during a set by cover band Girlfriend in a Coma.

When he takes the stage, our Morrissey for the evening certainly looks the part, but before he starts to sing, someone in the audience shouts out, in a fake Mancunian accent, “Where’s your Gladioli?” a reference to the flowers that, in the early days, Morrissey often stuck in his back pocket, or swung above his head like a mace. “Morrissey” steps up to the mic and replies, in his own Manchester-approximate accent, “Didn’t you bring me flowers?”

He hits all the right poses: arms akimbo looking fey, tongue stuck out coyly, pulling desperately at his shirt then collapsing to the ground and singing curled up like a dead bug. The band is pretty tight as well: The chunky, shimmering siren of a riff that begins “How Soon is Now?” is perfect and the synthesized pan-pipe coda on “There is a Light that Never Goes Out” rings true. The set list is a predictable greatest hits rundown, with a few solo Morrissey anthems like “Suedehead” and “Everyday is Like Sunday” thrown in for good measure, and it seems that everyone is getting what they want: Lyrics are mouthed, people are smiling and swaying in their seats, and a small but energetic group gets up and dances at the foot of the stage.

When I was in high school, I worshipped Jim Morrison and went to see a Doors cover band, The Backdoors, play at Trax. The show left me feeling weird and a little sad—watching a fake Lizard King in fake leather pants just made the real thing seem that much farther away. Most of us in the crowd at Gravity Lounge tonight were too young to see The Smiths; we became fans after it was all over. When a young woman runs up onto the stage to hug “Morrissey,” just as the fans have always done at his shows, I wonder if what we are is a tribute audience, “cover fans” acting out a role just as much as the man at the mic.


Heard this one before? Girlfriend in a Coma ran through a Smiths and Morrissey hit parade during a free show at Gravity Lounge.

Onstage tonight, the man who would be Morrissey tells the story of his conversion, how he had been a long-haired “metal merchant” until one day he heard “Heaven Knows I’m Miserable Now” on the radio and everything changed. He cut his hair and bought a Smiths album, and in 2006 started this tribute band to help spread The Good News. I turn and look at the crowd. They seem happy; the look on faces young and old is one that says, “Don’t burst my bubble. Let me pretend.” Why not? All of us were born too late for something.

But when I turn back to the band, the singer rips off his shirt to reveal “Charlotte take a bow” written on his chest. Is that a clever reference to the dead queen our town is named after, or does this idiot think he’s in North Carolina? Oh well, nothing’s perfect.

Categories
News

Up in smoke

More features:

Salvia 101
What is it?

It might be legal, but there’s still a stigma
A high school newspaper censors a student journalists attempt to write about salvia use

In the name of God, leave salvia alone!
The Rutherford Institute’s John Whitehead weighs in

I am still unable to comprehend that the drug has taken hold. I open my eyes and the colors in the Mexican blanket on my lap seem baked, as if they’re on fire. The furniture is stretched out and far away and my conscious mind bobs just out of reach in the middle of the living room.

“This is the drug,” I think. “That’s what’s happening. I didn’t think it would come on so fast. I didn’t think it would be this intense. Will it ever stop?”

Delegate John O’Bannon, a Republican neurosurgeon representing Virginia’s 73rd district, first heard of Salvia divinorum about a year and a half ago when an Assistant Commonwealth’s Attorney told him about a drug bust in Richmond that produced paraphernalia and something called salvia. His interest peaked, O’Bannon learned that Salvia divinorum, a strong, natural hallucinogen, was not only legal, but could be purchased in a store in downtown Richmond.

So O’Bannon, whose record tends towards medical issues but which otherwise shows no obvious interest in drug abuse, drafted a bill to make salvia illegal in Virginia. On November 29, Virginia bill HB21 was pre-filed to make the active ingredient in the plant, salvinorin A, a Schedule I hallucinogenic drug, joining in that category Ecstasy, LSD and Heroin. On January 15, the bill passed the House 98-0 and made its way to the Senate floor, where it again passed unanimously, on February 18. Once Governor Tim Kaine signs his name to it, the bill will be law and Salvia divinorum will be illegal in Virginia.

So let us herald salvia’s last legal days in The Old Dominion. Raise your hand if you’ve ever heard of it before.

“Beavis” and “Butthead” (not their real names) are both 18 and seniors at Western Albemarle High. Each has tried salvia only once, and knows of around four or five other students, they say, who’ve done it. (In the course of reporting this story, I came across several students at other local high schools who had taken salvia.) One of Butthead’s friends has tried it more than once, and she was the one who introduced him to it.

“When it hit, it hit pretty hard,” he says when I talk to him on the phone. Butthead was outside when he took the salvia, and he says that “everything turned kind of reddish,” and the trees seemed to pull at him. “I kind of lost myself and started rambling about trees and goats.” Beavis tells me that his body was tingling and he couldn’t stop laughing. “It was awesome,” he says.

Salvia divinorum, a type of sage, is a relative of the mint plant. It originates in Oaxaca, Mexico, where for perhaps thousands of years the Mazatec shaman have squeezed the juices of the plant into water, drinking the mixture as part of religious and medicinal ceremonies. Salvia derives its hallucinogenic properties from the chemical salvinorin A, the most potent naturally occurring psychoactive drug known, one that is chemically quite different from all other hallucinogens. Its popularity on the fringes of the drug culture as one of the last legal highs comes via the Internet, where a wide variety of sites sell it as “incense.” With a wink and a nudge, these sites inform you that in no way are you supposed to put it in a pipe and smoke it.

And the really crazy part? Salvia seems to be relatively harmless. In 2003, doctors at the University of Nebraska pumped massive doses of salvinorin A into rats for 14 days straight and found it did zero damage to any of the rodents’ organs. Nor is there evidence, according to a study conducted by researchers from the University of California-Berkeley and California Pacific Medical Center Research Institute, that salvia is addictive or has any significant negative side effects.The trip only lasts for about 30 minutes (compare this to 8-10 hours for LSD) and there’s no hangover. I can attest to this. Currently legal in 42 states (and dropping fast) salvia is off the radar of most police departments and hospitals for the simple fact that it doesn’t seem to be causing many problems.

Which makes you wonder why anyone would bother to make it illegal.

I begin to get a grip on what is passing for reality and to enjoy the echoing music and distorted colors. Something drags through the air at the edge of my vision, and I see dripping orange claws hanging down like demented tree limbs. My senses are deranged: Colors bleed and seem thick and multidimensional.

The galvanizing incident in the movement to ban salvia was the suicide in January 2006 of 17-year-old Brett Chidester. Brett had started using salvia, which he purchased online, several months before he killed himself. Kathy Chidester, Brett’s mother, is convinced that it was salvia that made her son depressed, and three months after his death, the chief medical examiner in Brett’s home state of Delaware changed the death certificate to include Salvia divinorum as a contributor to the youth’s demise.

Despite there being no direct evidence cited between Brett’s salvia use and his suicide (no traces were found in his system when he died), nor any other official reports of salvia-linked deaths, Brett’s mother is actively advocating for salvia criminalization. In a phone interview, Delegate O’Bannon tells me that Mrs. Chidester wrote him a letter to support the proposed salvia ban in Virginia. I mention to him the seeming lack of connection between the suicide and salvia. “That’s not what his mother thinks,” he snaps.

The drug seems to absorb whatever comes in through my eyes and ears and manipulate it, as if it, the drug, is rummaging around in the attic of my mind, pulling stray thoughts out the corners and making them dance like Balinese shadow puppets. “Little green men!” I think, “Leprechauns!” and each thought brings the idea to mind as a transparent image hanging in the air in front of me. I am stubbornly holding on to the fraying edges of reality, but if I were to let go, I’m pretty sure that the visions would really start pouring in.

Beavis and Butthead bought their salvia at the same place, a store called Kulture Clothing Co. on the Corner. Kulture has only been open in Charlottesville for six months, and given that none of the high school students I talked to mentioned buying salvia online (too risky, they said, what with their parents and everything), I conclude that salvia hasn’t been used at local high schools for very long.

“Do you sell salvia?” I ask the sales-dude when I visit the store for the first time. He pauses for a moment. “Yeah, I think so.” He digs around behind the counter and then reaches into a cardboard box and hands me a small plastic bag with a big colorful label that says “Purple Sticky Salvia.”

“That’ll be $60.”

I don’t tell the guy that I’m a reporter, but he talks freely about the drug. The cardboard box behind the counter is all the salvia left in the store, and when it’s gone, he volunteers, they won’t be ordering any more. Apparently, it sold much better in Richmond than in Charlottesville. All kinds of people buy it, he says, ages 18 to 70. He usually tries to convince them not to buy it, but they do, and then inevitably they bring it back the next day and say that they didn’t like it. When they initially got it in the shop, he tells me, the first person to try it had a bad reaction, but sales-dude himself tried it and liked it. When he tripped, he thought it was 1999, and kept telling his friends that he hadn’t met them yet.

I leave the store with a small plastic container holding about two thimbles full of purple, almost black, shredded leaves that smell like bitter tea. The packaging says that it is “Not intended for human consumption” but also that it was “Atomix Laboratory Approved.” Neither statement reassures.

According to the Drug Enforcement Agency, which considers salvia a “drug of concern,” “information on the user population is limited. It appears to be mostly adolescents and younger adults influenced by promotions of the drug on Internet sites.” The DEA would be better off surfing YouTube, where live thousands of videos of kids tripping on salvia—lots of off-camera giggling while the star of the show stares into space and smiles.


YouTube videos of people taking salvia. To see similar videos, click here.

Local law enforcement does not seem to be keeping a watchful eye on salvia. I put in a call to JADE, the Jefferson Area Drug Enforcement task force, and after a bit of effort manage to get someone to call me back, although he won’t tell me his name. “Look,” he barks, “I’m not going to be quoted in your paper. Now tell me what you want to know.” He hasn’t heard of salvia. I seem to be wasting his time. If it’s made illegal, he tells me, JADE will enforce the law.

According to Laura Bechtel at Blue Ridge Poison Control, there have been 11 calls about salvia in the past four years, only four of which were people who had ingested the drug, the other seven being callers seeking information (to put those 11 calls into perspective, in the same time period a total of 148,650 calls came into the poison control center). The salvia callers have been of all ages—in fact, one of the four ingestion calls concerned an infant who had accidentally swallowed salvia. “As far as I know,” Bechtel says, “we haven’t had any cases that needed medical attention.” (The baby was probably fine, as salvia is rendered inactive by stomach acids.) Most of the callers have been concerned about the hallucinations. “It’s hard,” she continues, “to put a number on how emergent the drug is,” but it’s getting an increasing number of hits on Internet medical sites. I ask what her professional advice would be if someone called and said something like, “I have some salvia. Should I take it?”

“No,” she says, “don’t smoke it.”   

I don’t like hallucinogens. I don’t even like smoking pot. So it takes me several days to get up the nerve to try the purple sticky. I sit down in a chair in my living room with a borrowed bong, put a small pinch of the salvia in the bowl, light it and watch the tube fill up with white smoke. I hold the smoke in my lungs for a few seconds, and then blow it out.

As soon as I do, I realize that I have forgotten to note the time. I get up from the chair and head into the other room to look at the clock. When I move I feel a little bit strange, and I think, “I better hurry up before it hits.”
 
My body feels like it’s being twisted, wrung out like a towel. Twin, white plumes of smoke are spiraling into me.
 
I can barely focus on the clock

the time is 8:59pm

and I turn and run back to my chair,

still with this spiraling, twisting feeling. It alternates on either side of my body, as though the world was rushing into me like water down a drain.

The strange thing is that I’m not yet aware that the drug has kicked in; my ability to process what is happening is lagging way behind my experience of it. I sit down, still not understanding that the trip has begun, and close my eyes.

The air is filled with green and white caterpillars marching in time to the music, a vast moving kaleidoscope, into and out of little holes in the air.

I’m not exactly seeing things, but I’m sure I could if I were willing to let go of the flimsy life raft that journalism affords me. Part of me is analyzing everything, thinking, “I see how this could cause people to think they had traveled to other worlds.”

It is, to quote one of the high school students, “absurdly intense.”

It’s like the fever dreams I remember from childhood. My body is tingling all over, is warm and light.

At 9:05, six minutes after it started, I can think well enough to grab my notebook and begin to write down what has happened. By 9:08, I’m able to get up and walk over to my computer. An hour later I feel relatively normal, but with a persistent body buzz that lingers until I finally go to sleep.

The next morning, I feel great.

I would definitely take salvia again, but with reservations. It was very strong (salvia is typically sold as leaves that have been fortified with extracted salvinorin A. These are sold in varying strengths, the one I tried being relatively potent) and came on frighteningly fast. Being prepared for those two things would make the trip a lot more manageable. At no point did I feel out of control or completely out of touch with reality. As is the case with many drugs, if you research it, have a friend on hand (I didn’t) and approach salvia with caution, you’re likely to be fine.

I didn’t feel depressed in the slightest. This is not an issue I take lightly, being someone prone to depression with or without drugs, and it was the greatest fear I had before I tripped. As far as I could tell, it seems unlikely that salvia would cause a suicide. Granted, my lack of suicidal thoughts is not evidence of salvia’s harmlessness, but by the same logic, neither is Brett Chidester’s suicide proof of salvia’s menace.

A week after my trip, HB21 unanimously passes through the State Senate making what I had done, without hindrance or consequence seven days before, a de facto crime. Score another one for the War on Drugs, for the swelling of prisons and jails with small-time users, for politicians that will make criminals out of people who need or want a 30-minute break from reality.

The ongoing attempt to make Salvia divinorum illegal is not being driven from the bottom up by police battling crime or doctors concerned about public health. It is instead coming from the top down, the result of hand-wringing news stories and grandstanding politicians wanting to appear tough on drugs. Some say it is being done hastily and without any real thought being given to the consequences (see sidebar, p. 22).

Making salvia illegal, 18-year-old Butthead told me, is “kinda silly, frankly.” It’s hard to understand how making a drug user into a criminal makes the user safer. The penalties for salvia possession in Virginia are yet to be set, but in some of the states where the drug is already illegal, they are quite severe. In Missouri, for instance, salvia possession is a felony punishable by a maximum of seven years in jail. In Louisiana, it’s 10 years. It’s worth asking why our government’s time and money is being spent criminalizing something that doesn’t seem to present a problem. How are high school kids—or society at large, for that matter—any safer going to jail for 30 minutes of nontoxic, nonaddictive mind alteration? Meanwhile, the search inevitably begins for the next legal high, or the next soon-to-be-illegal one—whatever we can get our hands on. Beavis told me that he probably wouldn’t do salvia again, legal or not. Butthead, on the other hand, said that he would. “[Making it illegal is] not gonna make it go away,” he said. “As a high school student, I know it’s easier to buy pot than beer.”

With additional reporting by Scot Masselli

Categories
News

Salvia 101


More features:

Up in smoke
Practically unknown, salvia will soon become the latest casualty in the War on Drugs

It might be legal, but there’s still a stigma
A high school newspaper censors a student journalists attempt to write about salvia use

In the name of God, leave salvia alone!
The Rutherford Institute’s John Whitehead weighs in

Name: Salvia divinorum

Botanical family: Lamiaceae (mint)

Genus: Salvia (sage)

Other names: Diviner’s Sage, ska Maria Pastora, Sage of the Seers, Magic Mint, Sally D

Drug type: Salvia is a Psychoactive, a drug that temporarily alters brain function by acting on the central nervous system. Within that category, salvia is a hallucinogen, because it distorts thinking and sensory perception, and it is also an entheogen, a drug used for religious or spiritual rituals.

History: Traditionally grown and used by Mazatec shamans in Oaxaca, Mexico. Salvia is unusual in that it is a cultigen, a type of plant that is only found in its domesticated form, and not wild. Salvia was first written about in 1939, but it wasn’t until the 1990s that its psychoactive ingredient, salvinorin A, was isolated.

Chemistry: Salvinorin A is the strongest naturally occurring hallucinogen; also a unique vision-causing drug.

How to obtain it: While it’s still legal, salvia can be purchased online, either through sites like sagewisdom.com (which has a detailed user’s guide) or on eBay. It can also be found at some head shops. I bought a gram of 20X strength salvia for $60 from a local store. Average online prices range from $10 to $15 for a gram of the lowest strength, to $96.99 for a gram of salvia advertised as 40X. One website sells the dry leaves in bulk: a pound for $148.95 and $248.95 for a kilo. In addition, plants can be purchased from specialty nurseries, allowing you to grow it at home.

How to take it: Salvia comes in three forms: dried leaves, “extracts,” the most common form (dried leaves enhanced to different strengths with salvinorin A), and tinctures (salvinorin A in alcohol).

The most common way to take salvia is by smoking it in a pipe or water bong. The plain leaves are mild and it takes a fair amount to get any effect. Most people smoke the significantly stronger extracts.

Salvia can also be taken orally, causing milder effects that last longer. The only hitch is that stomach acids destroy salvinorin if it is swallowed, so the plain dried leaves must be held in the mouth like chewing tobacco. This allows the juices to be absorbed by the mouth. The same thing can be done with tinctures. Additionally, tinctures can be added to water or just placed under the tongue, but must be held in the mouth to be effective.

Warnings: So far, there is no sign that salvia is toxic or addictive, according to several scientific studies, but some people do find the effects unpleasant and there are numerous anecdotes connecting it with dysphoric and irrational behavior. It is best to take salvia with someone, and of course, never drive while on it.