Author: Tracey Love

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Living

When it comes to wine, what’s the difference between organic and biodynamic?

Early Mountain Vineyards is using “thoughtful viticulture,” which is a cross between organic, Courtesy Early Mountain Vineyards

Gears are changing when it comes to our awareness of what we’re putting into our bodies. The local food movement is making us increasingly cognizant of where food comes from and how it was produced, and there’s been a recent shift in the booze world, too. We’ve seen a drastic move toward local craft beers as opposed to domestic brews, small distilleries are popping up all over the place, and winemakers are taking steps toward organic grapes and biodynamic vineyards. So what exactly does it all mean, especially in Virginia’s wine country?

The USDA states that organic operations must demonstrate that they’re protecting natural resources, conserving biodiversity, and using only approved substances. Organic wines are made with organically grown grapes and without any added sulfites, though naturally occurring sulfites are still present. Sulfites are present in all wines to some extent, and are commonly introduced to halt fermentation and act as a preservative to prevent spoilage and oxidation. Without the addition of sulfites, wine (and grape juice, for that matter) would quickly turn to vinegar. Organic wines are not necessarily without sulfites, but often have lower levels which are closely regulated. Because of this, organic wine is made for immediate consumption, and since the sulfite levels are lower they won’t last longer than a couple years.

Unfortunately, obtaining organic certification for a farm or winery is a challenging, expensive, and arduous process. For some winemakers, the organic label or “certified” status is meaningless compared to the sustainable and healthy growing practices they adopt in an effort to improve the land and create a thriving ecosystem.

Another option is biodynamic farming, a spiritual, ethical, and ecological approach to agriculture, food production, and nutrition. The concept was developed in the 1920s by Austrian educator and social activist Dr. Rudolf Steiner, and the biodynamic movement encompasses thousands of gardens, farms, vineyards, and agricultural organizations around the world. Biodynamic farmers strive to create a diverse, balanced ecosystem. They use preparations, or teas, made from fermented manure, minerals, and herbs like dandelions, nettles, and valerian to help restore and harmonize natural resources, while also improving the quality and flavor of the grapes.

The U.S. government regulates use of the term “organic,” but “sustainable” and “biodynamic” have no legal definitions.

“We don’t need everybody to see organic on the label, but it is enough to know we are doing something good for the soil and environment,” said Early Mountain Vineyards manager Jonathan Hollerith.

The folks at Early Mountain Vineyards in Madison are trying their hand at “thoughtful viticulture,” a cross between organic, biodynamic, and conventional grape growing practices. Hollerith has been working closely with winemaker Steve Monson since 2012 to move toward healthier growing practices in the vineyards, starting with converting one acre completely organic.  

“[The plan is to] expand slowly, with a gradual and thoughtful progression, which could be a complete disaster,” Hollerith said. “We are working with a 10,000-piece puzzle and only have 1,000 pieces.”

Going the organic route is a challenge no matter how you slice it, especially when it comes to managing pests and mold.

“We’re fighting an unfair fight with invasive species,” Hollerith said. “And there is no organic solution to fighting black mold in the vineyard.”

Hollerith splits his time between Virginia and southwest Germany, where he and his family run a vineyard called Weingut Joachim Hollerith, which is maintained in a similar way. Their goals are to promote biodiversity in the soil and to invigorate soil biomass, unlocking the nutrients that exist in the land to make them accessible for the vines to absorb. They’ve planted cover crops, and you can see from the road that alternating rows are overgrown and not mowed to enhance vineyard health. Their long term goal is not to print “certified organic” on their wine bottle labels, but to promote overall health and balance in the vineyard, thus creating better quality land, soil, and ultimately, better wine. Some of their wines can be purchased at Wine Warehouse, and are always available in the tasting room.

Loving Cup Vineyard and Winery in North Garden is Virginia’s first organic winery, and it’s clear that maintaining certified organic status is no easy task. Owners Karl and Deena Hambsch are dedicated to growing completely organic hybrid grapes on their family property tucked into the hills a few miles off Route 29, and they said they’ve had their ups and downs. Karl Hambsch said it’s essential to keep a close eye on organic vines, because managing pests and mold is such a challenge, and the slightest defects can compromise production.

The Hambschs are pouring their 2012 releases in the recently opened tasting room, including Loving Cup White, a blend of Cayuga, Vidal Blanc, and Traminette, and Loving Cup Red, a blend of Marquette and Corot Noir. Grape variety is key in the success of their organic growing practices, because unlike other Virginia wineries who grow Vitis Vinifera (European rootstock varieties), these hybrid Hungarian varietals—“not cookie cutter vines,” according to Hambsch—are hardier and less disease prone.

Since planting the first grapes in 2008, some trials have been more successful than others. Nothing has been successful against the black mold, Hambsch said, but as dedicated environmental stewards, they’re going full-steam ahead with their stab at maintaining an organic winery.

“It’s a business with no regrets, because everything is done right,” Hambsch said.

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Living

Red red wine: Mountfair winemaker shares her secrets

Kelly Meyers Rogan, who’s been with Mountfair Vineyards for years, recently took on the role of winemaker. Photo: Rammelkamp Foto

Tucked away at the end of a windy dirt road at the foot of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Mountfair Vineyards is not a spot that you’re likely to just stumble upon. The tasting room is modest, both in size and décor, making it clear that the emphasis is on the wines, not the show. The wines are intentional, and they are focused on making small-batch, blended red wines from (mostly) traditional Bordeaux varietals, namely Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. The wines with quippy names like Twang, Intertwined, and Irreverent are all aged for 18 months or longer in barrel and cost $30 per bottle. To learn more about these wines, and to get the perspective of someone directly involved in making them, I sat down with Mountfair’s newly promoted winemaker, Kelly Meyers Rogan.

A UVA grad and longtime Virginia resident, Rogan first learned of Mountfair before the winery even opened, when she and her husband stopped by to talk with the folks planting vines on Fox Mountain. While Rogan got her winemaking chops from her professors and classmates at UC Davis, she gives most credit to the winemakers she trained under, particularly Frtiz Repich, her predecessor at Mountfair.

For her, the most satisfying aspect of her job is watching the wine transform as it ages.

“Wine and winemaking are very organic,” Rogan said. “At times the wine almost acts like it is a living thing, the ways it improves as it ages and becomes more interesting and nuanced and responds to the nudges I give it. And I love sharing that with people, giving barrel tastings or wine tastings to folks and talking about this.”

With this sense of satisfaction also comes frustration, she said, and the most challenging aspect of the job is the “occasionally uncooperative” weather of Central Virginia.

“Having a beautiful growing season sullied by a tropical depression bringing lots of rain is tough,” Rogan said.

At least she isn’t alone in this department, nor is it under her control—Virginia weather is unpredictable, as seen by the recent blizzard followed by sunny days in the mid-60s.

She also noted a common misconception about red wine in particular (which is her forte) and the length of time necessary to let it “breathe.”

“The secret to properly aerating a bottle of wine is a function of the amount of time you have and how much exposure to air the wine has,” Rogan said. “So if you know ahead of time what you would like to drink with dinner, you can simply pop the cork around lunchtime, pour off a splash and re-cork it. When you come back six or seven hours later that little bit of air has had that time to circulate through that wine and open it up nicely.” Just in time for dinner. She also prefers to “stick to Virginia red wines since that is what I make at Mountfair.” Fair enough.

Since food and wine go hand-in-hand, I asked Kelly about her favorite pairings. Maybe it’s because she works in a forest-studded environment, but her preference is venison and a bold well-aged red.

“The jammy, earthy notes in a mature wine reflect the gamey, rich venison and can be really fabulous,” she said. “A great Virginia example of this type would be a significantly aged Petit Verdot, such as the Wooloomooloo here at Mountfair that will be released this fall.”

When I asked Rogan how she relaxes after a workday in the cellar, she made it clear that she practices what she preaches.

“I love a nice glass of red wine after a long day to unwind,” she said. All in a day’s work, I suppose.

The Mountfair tasting room is open Friday-Sunday from noon-6pm, otherwise by appointment only. Located at 4875 Fox Mountain Rd., in Mountfair. (434) 823-7605

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Living

Find the perfect food and wine pairing to enhance umami on your palate

At Mas, Chef Tomas recommends pairing Spanish sherries with foie gras for a taste experience full of umami. Rammelkamp foto

Maybe you’ve heard of umami, the elusive concept that’s been popping up in the food world the last couple of years. Umami is the mysterious taste that gives your favorite dishes that rich, deep flavor you can’t quite put your finger on. But what about wine? As someone who often analyzes both what’s on my plate and in my glass, I’ve been searching for food and wine pairings that bring out that unmistakeable but hard to pin down quality. My own palate is tuned toward savory, meaty tastes, but sensitivity to umami certainly varies from person to person.

Umami, pronounced oo-MOM-eee, is considered to be the fifth taste, following salty, sweet, bitter, and sour. It is unique because of the way it interacts with other taste receptors to make whatever touches your tongue seem simply more delicious. There’s speculation that umami flavors are related to fermentation, as foods like cured meats, dried shiitake mushrooms, and dried sardines have more intense flavors than their fresh counterparts. Other umami-rich products include parmesan cheese, soy sauce, fish sauce, hot sauce, Worchestershire sauce, Vegemite, tomatoes, beer, and some wines.

If you want a truly dynamic experience with this enigmatic fifth flavor, keep an open mind to food and wine combinations that may meld the savory character of umami on your palate.

Zac King, General manager of Ten, suggested pairing sherry—“and not your mom’s cooking sherry from the ’70s,” he said—with the “musty-mushroom” of miso soup, or fish with higher fat content like bluefin toro and sea urchin. If you’re not a sherry fan, he said other white wines on the menu like gruner veltliner from Austria will also complement most of the Japanese menu items.

“This varietal tends to be very light bodied, slightly acidic, and full of minerality, nicely contrasting the umami flavors in our food,” King said. “We also have the Tascante Buonora carricante from Sicily, which is dry and balances the delicate flavors of Japanese foods, and the subtle flavors of sashimi.”

On the other side of town (and the other side of the globe), Mas offers up some Spanish pairings. Fortified wines like Oloroso or Amontillado sherries from Jerez, Spain, Madeira from Portugal, and Marsala from Sicily, are also super-rich with umami. They have a dry, oxidative, mushroomy quality that is really the epitome of umami flavor in wine.

The menu at Mas offers an expansive collection of sherries worth working your way through. Chef Tomas Rahal helped get me started by introducing me to the the Hidalgo “Faraon” Oloroso from Jerez, Spain. Neither too rich nor too sweet, exuding notes of caramel and dried figs, it’s a perfect pairing for foie gras or liver, Rahal said.

“[Spanish] sherries, Madeiras, and non-fortified wines are products of patient, slow vinification,” he said. “Many are from old vines and ancient soils and see considerable time on the lees, and in barrel-aging in contact with wild yeasts. The end results are deep and full-flavored, reflecting the totality of their environments.”

For a little bit of everything, head up Route 29 for some small plates and the extensive wine list at recently-opened Parallel 38. Owner Justin Ross recommended the 2012 Domaine Christian Lauverjat Sancerre ($48 on the restaurant’s wine list), which is smooth and round with hints of smoke, river bed minerals, and tangy citrus.

“Any time we’re pairing multiple items with one wine we turn to wines that have umami qualities because they allow the diner to experience many different sensations throughout their meal,” Ross said.

Umami in wine is created simply from yeast, and fermentation, especially when aged sur lie (wine that is aged on top of, or stirred into the dead yeast cells created during fermentation), with the dead yeast cells acting as a source for amino acids. Muscadet from the Loire Valley is a great example of this theory. It’s made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, which benefits from aging sur lie, creating a richer body in an otherwise tart, mineral driven wine. The Bruno Cormerais Muscadet Sevre et Maine ($32.95 at Tastings) is an eclectic, opulent version of wine from this region.

Big, fat, ripe, buttery chardonnays and Champagnes seem to have the most profound flavors, and aging Champagne “en tirage” (or on the lees) after secondary bottle fermentation creates flavor distinctions consistent with umami. Ulysse Collin Champagne ($69.95 at Tastings) is savory, bready, yeasty, and seethes this sumptuous mouth feel.

The Rare Wine Company, based in Portugal, created a special series attributed to the long history of Madeira. One of these labels is the “Thomas Jefferson Special” ($79.99 at Market Street Wine Shop), which ties Madeira’s history all the way back to Virginia—Thomas Jefferson was evidently a lover of these wines, evidenced by bottle pieces discovered at Monticello. Madeira is a fortified wine meant to last forever, with off dry, salty, caramel, and dried mushroom notes, finishing with a touch of honey-like sweetness. With almost 20 percent alcohol, a little bit goes a long way, as the complex layers of flavors add contemplation before, during, or after dinner.

What umami means

Umami was identified by Japanese scientist Kikunae Ikeda in the early 1900s. He wondered if the sea-
weed that gave flavor to Japanese broth could do the same for other foods. He discovered that the active ingredient in the seaweed was glutamic acid. Glutamic acid, or glutamate, has a taste distinctive from sweet, sour, bitter, and salty. Ikeda named it “umami” from the Japanese words umai (delicious) and mi (essence), and created monosodium glutamate (MSG), a sodium salt that enhances umami flavors.

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Living

State of the vineyard: Local winemakers look forward to what 2014 will bring

Grace Estates winemaker Jake Busching recaps last year’s successes and looks ahead to what 2014 will bring this vintage. Photo: Christian Hommel

Every year around this time, our nation’s president makes a State of the Union address reflecting on the challenges and accomplishments of the previous year, while also looking ahead at the agenda for the upcoming year. While the president’s address typically includes legislative proposals and government-related issues, this State of the Union address is written by local winemakers based on their feelings about the 2013 vintage, and what we might expect this year. We figured this would be a good opportunity to read it through their own words, out of the cellar and into the real world.

Benoit Pineau, winemaker at Pollak Vineyards

The 2013 vintage was good overall at Pollak Vineyards. In contrast with the challenges of a wet spring, we had an excellent late season. Heavy rainfall early in the season made canopy management and spray programs difficult to keep up with, but once summer arrived it was pretty smooth sailing. The last leg of the season was comfortable and dry with nights trending cooler than usual. These are optimal conditions to let the red grapes ripen on the vine until the ideal sugar, acid, and phenolics balance is reached.

It’s another planting year for us, and we’re implementing some specific changes in regards to technique in the vineyard. We are moving towards a tighter plantation density, cane pruning and planting specific clones we strongly believe will result in better intensity and complexity for our wines.

So far 2014 is off to a good start thanks to the “polar vortex.” The past two years, harvests have been under threat of new pests like the spotted winged fruit flies. I am convinced this cold stream will help to push the infestation further south without causing damage to the vines.

Jake Busching, winemaker at Grace Estates

[Last year] was typical for Monticello area vineyards, in that it was nothing like any of the previous vintages. It had a smattering of similarities but nothing that would drive any of us to say, ”Oh that was just like 2008!” We had a proactive plan to make the most of it, and become very reactive as the vintage rolled out before us. Doing well in a vintage is the ability to interpret what’s coming over the mountain or what’s flashing green and yellow on the radar screen and harness all of the chaotic elements to your advantage. It’s what we do as winegrowers; an art grown from a medium of elemental chaos.

Riding this sense of accomplishment, we look ahead to what we’d like to do next year to improve, change, or just have fun with the grapes that we will steward to fruition once again. I am looking at making some new wines: sauvignon blanc, new growths of tannat and cabernet franc, and starting a port program.

We simply cannot make any assumptions of the vintage upcoming. We deal with the elements and the elements aren’t talking…yet. When asked about the next vintage, or even the current vintage, and how it’s doing or looking, I like to answer with something like “ask me when it’s been in bottle a few months.”

Nathan Vrooman,
winemaker at Ankida Ridge

[The year] 2013 produced a well-timed bud break, followed by nice weather at bloom giving us healthy, well-populated vines. Warm, dry weather toward the end of the growing season helped the vines recover from previous gloomy weather and everything ripened, just a little later than previous vintages.

The biggest setback to the 2013 vintage was the rain in the middle of the growing season that caused a lot of worry that the fruit would not be able to adequately ripen.

The winter has shown us a big cold spell already. Assuming the vines have not been damaged, we think we are off to a great 2014. It will soon be time to start pruning!

Kirsty Harmon, winemaker at Blenheim Vineyards 

As everyone has said, 2013 was unbelievably wet, but luckily the rain stopped for the entire duration of harvest, which certainly saved the vintage from disaster. Reds are still in a bit of a weird place since malic acids were so high (likely due to all of the rain and not enough sunshine). Many of our red wines are still going through malolactic fermentation, so it’s tough to figure out how everything will taste once they are done.

We made a sauvignon blanc for the first time, and if things go as planned, we will also make a roussanne.

For 2014, we hope to make more sauvignon blanc and will continue to experiment with the block of pinot noir that we have.

Who knows what the weather will bring us? But as always, I’m hopeful for sunshine and excited for another chance to make wine!

Rachel Stinson, winemaker at Stinson Vineyards 

[Last year] was a big year in the vineyard for us—our first harvest! Our first grapes came in on August 31 and the last ones on October 27. We do an extended fermentation on our port-style wine, so we didn’t press everything off until right before Christmas.

Ripening in general was a bit behind due to cooler temperatures throughout the summer and LOTS OF RAIN. Fortunately the sun came out for a very key few weeks in September and produced a fine finish on the fruit. We look forward to playing around with blending trials on the new clones.

In 2013 we planted a block of tannat, which is the varietal we use in our port–style wine. Its hard to find growers who are willing to let the grapes hang late into the season, so this will be a new experience for us. We’re also experimenting with our new sauvignon blanc plantings to better protect them from cold damage.

What little we’ve seen of 2014 so far has been continued unpredictable weather! While some cold weather is good as it may help to kill off bugs and certain diseases, it also means keeping a careful eye out for cold damage to the vines and timing pruning just right. We’re also looking forward to higher yield from our vines. I think this will be another big year for Virginia wine in the press so hopefully the weather will cooperate!

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Living

A Charlottesville wine lover takes on the grapes of Sicily

Not unlike here in Central Virginia, winemakers in Sicily take pride in producing wines specific to the area. File photo

We all know the “locavore” movement is in full swing, as evidenced by the evolution of restaurant menus across the country, and countless articles and books written about the local food scene. Charlottesville thrives in the midst of farms and locally grown food, and as Virginia gains credibility as a wine destination, our little town also takes local pride in its winemakers. There are few places that produce so many commodities within tight borders as we do, or so I thought.

My husband (I’m still getting used to this term) and I recently took our honeymoon in Sicily, where local pride abounds like I’ve never experienced. We started out in the northern city of Palermo, headed south along the coast, and finally landed at the base of Mount Etna over the span of 10 days. Each town we passed through showcased slightly different riffs on local cuisine, ingredients, and wine. The wine part is very important here, as it is the main reason we ended up in Sicily in the first place. The residents of each area of the island (which can be traversed in about six hours from coast to coast) rely so heavily on what they grow and produce that they are not even aware of what the next town over may have to offer. Each small town may as well be its own island within the island.

When scouring the wine list at a restaurant in Trapani on our first night, we found that the selections were solely from this particular region. One of the wineries holding more than a few spots on the list is Fondo Antico, whose wines I was already familiar with. We actually poured a couple of them at our wedding, so this really brought our trip full circle. Fondo Antica produces excellent wines spanning from nero d’avola, which hails from Sicily and is the most recognized grape from the region, to a passito-style dessert wine.

We had the opportunity to tour the winery and to meet Agostino Adragna, who runs the sales and marketing aspect of the family business. We tasted wines not available in the states, and he kindly sent us off with a few souvenir bottles, which we were giddy to try. One was a Grillo Parlante, a white wine made from the grillo grape, which is also indigenous to the island. This bottling in particular was bright, minerally, and had a ton of gleaming acidity whetting our palates before dinner. Tavola is currently pouring the Fondo Antico nero d’avola by the glass if you’d like a taste without flying across the Atlantic.

Our next destination was a historic town called Modica, which is located just outside the towns of Ragusa and Vittoria, both major producers of reputable wines. A young winemaker named Arianna Occhipinti is making waves in Vittoria where she crafts natural wines, without the use of chemicals or pesticides. She’s a seminal figure for the new generation of wine lovers, and has been making exceptional wines since 2004. She got started in the industry at the age of 16 with her uncle, Giusto Occhipinti, who undisputedly produces some of the best wines in Sicily at his own winery, COS. Her selections include a local specialty called Cerasuolo di Vittoria, which by law is a blend of only frappato and nero d’avola grapes, both of which are native to the area. Frappato is a one of a kind red wine grape that is light in body and color, and has an amazing floral aroma and tart acidity. When blended with nero d’avola which is dark, smoky, and broods warm ripe fruit, it creates a nice blend of these two polar opposites. The Cerasuolo di Vittoria is not available in Charlottesville, but Occhipinti’s SP68 Sicilia Rosso, which is also a blend of nero d’avola and frappato, is available for $29.99 at Mona Lisa Pasta. Her second label  and side project, called Tami, was started with a few friends to introduce simple but good wines to younger wine drinkers at an affordable price. The Tami frapatto 2012 can be purchased at Market Street wine shop (uptown) for $18.99.

Moving further south towards the looming (and recently erupted) Mount Etna, we arrived just outside the sleepy town of Randazzo, surrounded by a grape lined mountain scape. We stayed in a house at the base of the volcano, shrouded with nero d’avola vines that we later learned were sold to nearby winery Tenuta Delle Terre Nere, which is one of the oldest and finest wineries in this area. We had the opportunity to visit the winery, and were given a surprise tour of some of their highest vineyard sites situated at 800 meters. Olive trees and terraced grape vines as far as the eye can see. We even had the pleasure to meet the owner, Marc de Grazia, who additionally runs a wine importing company bearing his name. The grapes of nerello mascalese, nerello cappuccio, nero d’avola, catarratto, and frappato grow rampant, and the wines from the Etna appellation are becoming more recognized in the states. The soils here are carpeted by volcanic rock, stones, and ash, which the vines (some as old as 130 years) love. The wind from the mountains and the salt from the sea intermingle within the grape clusters to create wines that are micro specific to their vineyard site. An affordable choice from Tenuta Delle Terre Nere is the Etna Rosso 2012. It’s a blend of nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio, and is available at Market Street Wine Shop for $21.99.

The wines from Etna are lean and fierce. They are unlike any other wines from Sicily—but then again, the same can be said of all the others. For an island to have such a drastically diverse landscape and changing micro climates, it makes sense that the wines and foods dwelling in each place would differ. It was made very clear to us that the people of Sicily are not part of the rest of Italy, and that their roots grow deep but stay local—just like Charlottesville.

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Living

What’s on the shelves at Tastings for Thanksgiving

Check out Tastings of Charlottesville for a selection of Thanksgiving wines for every budget. Photo: Elli Williams

I am thankful for…wine! And the best advice I can give for a stress-free Thanksgiving holiday is to keep a glass of vino nearby before, during, and after the big meal. It doesn’t even have to be excellent wine—just something that’s refreshing and takes the edge off.

Planning a multi-dish feast for your nearest and dearest and coordinating the logistics of fitting a houseful of people around your table for dinner is arduous enough, so don’t fret over the perfect bottle. Do, however, be sure to err on the side of extra—one bottle per of-age guest is sensible. Besides, leftovers are the best part of Thanksgiving anyway, and wine can certainly fall under that category. Don’t make yourself crazy by selecting multiple bottles to side with every last side dish. Stick with one red and one white to carry you through the course of the meal. If you want a little something extra, splurge for a sparkling wine or rose to kick off the festivities, both of which can act as a failsafe backup.

Make mine Italian 

Wines from the base of Sicily’s Mount Etna posses a kindred spirit to the wines of Beaujolais, with their energy and lightness. Mount Etna is one of the most active volcanoes in Europe, with regular smolderings of ash and lava, and the vines growing at its feet thrive on the deposits of rocky, volcanic soil. The nutrient-poor earth creates wines with minerality and acidity specific to this region of Italy. The 2009 Meraviglie A Picca A Picca Etna Rosso is made with the elegant nerello mascalese grape indigenous to this area, and will set you back $19.95 for a bottle at Tastings. It rivals gamay with its brimming cherry notes, yet offers a peppery spice more reminiscent of syrah.

Sangiovese, hailing from Tuscany, is also a fine partner for complex feasts, as it retains acidity while having enough backbone to stand up to the bird. Focusing our attention on American version instead (for the sake of the holiday), I chose the 2008 Pietra Santa sangiovese from Cienega Valley, California. Characteristically, it is similar to its Italian counterparts with notes of tobacco leaves and earth, but with an added juiciness that your guests are likely to enjoy ($16.95 at Tastings).

Barbera d’Alba takes the prize for most versatile red wine, with or without food. It is luciously juicy with just enough grip to give the wine texture and weight. It’s the classic “table wine” in Piedmonte, which is also responsible for gems like Barolo and Barbaresco, which often steal the spotlight. Thanksgiving is Barbera’s time to shine. The 2009 Montaribaldi “Du Gir” barbera d’alba is a crowd pleaser to say the least. The wine loves turkey, cornbread stuffing, and Aunt Celeste’s green bean casserole. You name it, and they’ll get along swimmingly.

Finds from France 

I tend to gravitate toward Italian wines, which are both versatile and usually affordable, when it comes to pairing with classic holiday dishes. But if you love French wines, there are Burgundys and Beaujolais that would make any turkey swoon. Beware, though, they can be difficult to serve for a crowd, as the price tag is often hefty.

You may have noticed the Beaujolais Nouveau cases stacked at the end of grocery store and wine shop aisles around this time each year. This is not the same Beaujolais I’m referring to here. Beaujolais Nouveau is fermented for just a few weeks, making the wine light in body and color, youthful in vigor, and always released the third Thursday of November. These wines are intended for immediate consumption, whereas wines from specific appellations in Beaujolais are smooth, ageable, and perfect for Thanksgiving. My unbridled choice is the 2010 Jean-Paul Thevenet Morgon. It helps that 2010 was a particularly ripe year and excellent vintage, rounding out the tartness and showing more fruit and earthiness. Tastings still has a few cases at $35.95 per bottle, so stock up while you can.

If you’re willing to shell out a little extra, the Domain Besson “Le Petit Pretan” 2010 Givry Premier Cru is worth the splurge. At $37.95 from Tastings, this quintessential Thanksgiving wine warrants its price tag. Known for its cheerful acidity and lean fruit, a good burgundy is just plain hard to beat. If you’re hosting a small, wine-savvy crowd, invest in a few bottles, but know that it’s not for everybody. Pinot noir from Burgundy is much leaner than new world styles like the Doman Besson, with less jammy fruit, more earth, and quite a bit of acidity, making it a more universally friendly pairing wine.

Once you’re seated at the table and facing whatever spread you’ve treated your guests to, certain aspects of the meal will call for a white wine. Chenin Blanc is often a sommelier’s pick for its off-dryness, tropical fruit notes, and aromatics. Vouvray, France, is a good region to find respectable chenin blanc, even if the grape isn’t mentioned on the label. Jacky Blot’s Domaine de la Taille aux Loups “Les Cabroches” is the perfect balance of piercing and honeyed, and can be picked up at Tastings for $22.95. The wine is rich but not cloying, and will be a hit from the pre-meal appetizers down to the last bite of apple pie.

I also can’t get enough of the white wines from Piedmonte, Italy, namely arneis. This varietal is medium bodied, and its persona is not strongly defined by any one attribute, which makes it perfect for pairing with food. The 2012 Collina Serra Grilli “Quantus” Roero arneis fits the bill with unassuming notes of grapefruit and citrus which will perfectly complement the vegetables alongside your turkey.

These particular bottles have found their way into my own kitchen on Thanksgiving, but they’re just a representation of the types of wines that go well with turkey and mashed potatoes. On a day centered around food and gratefulness, drink what you like, and try to relax.

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Living

Cold weather combos: Local chefs and farmers offer their favorite fall food and drink pairings

Cold weather combos Local chefs and farmers offer their favorite fall food and drink pairings. Photo: Elli Williams

Crisp fall air thick with lingering wood smoke. Unbeatable mountain views as the leaves change. Pumpkin beer. There are plenty of reasons to love this time of year, and as the days shorten into darker evenings, the motivation to linger over the stove increases in proportion. Family meals once again exude the aromas of the crock-pot, piquing the urge to sip red wine and other soul-succoring libations. Restaurant menus shift focus to hard-skinned root vegetables, thick, hearty stews, and slow-cooked meats to fortify us during the impending cold months.

Our town is filled with professionals capable of guiding us through this annual transition, so we asked a few friends to offer up their favorite fall food and drink pairings as inspiration.

Pasta + dry cider 

Ivy Inn’s chef Angelo Vangelopoulos looks forward to making his signature fall dish of pumpkin agnolotti every year. A roasted medley of pumpkins and seasonal squash is mixed with mascarpone, Parmigiano, and sage, and stuffed into thinly rolled pasta sheets folded into little pillows. He blends brown butter, diced pumpkin, chopped kale, pumpkin seeds, and pecans into a sauce and serves the whole concoction on a velvety bed of pureed parsnips. Albemarle Ciderworks Old Virginia Winesap, with its dry, slightly effervescent profile, balances the dish perfectly.

“The flavors and textures of this pairing really scream ‘fall!’ in my mouth,” Vangelopoulos said.

Braised meat + barleywine 

Maya’s chef Christian Kelly’s favorite meal to dig into when the leaves turn and the temperature drops is the restaurant’s braised Rock Barn pork cheeks with housemade ricotta dumplings. He pairs the dish with the Anniversary Barley wine at South Street Brewery—a beer with bitter hops and notes of pine, resin, and caramel—to round out this tender, flavorful, and often overlooked delicacy.

Rabbit stew + crianza

Over at Mas, chef Tomas Rahal favors his rendition of a traditional Spanish cacerola—literally meaning “stew pot”—of local duck, pork, and “wabbit.” Most complementary to the dish, he said, is a glass of Elias Mora crianza from Ribera del Duero, which exhibits rich notes of black fruit, licorice, tobacco, and a spicy finish perfect for this hearty stew on a chilly evening. Both are currently available at the restaurant.

Venison + cabernet franc 

Grace Estates Vineyard winemaker Jake Bushing has specific tastes and very little time to cook during harvest. But when he does sit down for a hearty dinner, his favorite fall dish consists of a venison loin marinated in red wine and lees—the dead yeast cells that fall to the bottom of the tank or barrel after fermentation is finished. He grills it rare and serves it alongside butternut squash, date risotto, and cooked greens. Bushing prefers to pair it with the 2007 Pollak Cabernet Franc which, unfortunately, is no longer available in the retail market. The next best thing is a mid-weight Virginia red wine like the Glen Manor Hodder Hill 2010, a ripe blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and petit verdot—if you’re lucky, you might be able to dig up a bottle at Market Street Wineshop.

“Smoke hangs heavy in the fall air, and a medium Honduran cigar with Connecticut wrap leaf and a glass of tannat port cap the meal,” Bushing said.

This time of year is all about traditions, but don’t be afraid to test out new flavor combinations, and share your favorites with us! Follow @eatdrinkcville on Instagram and tag us in your photos. 

Other fall favorites

  • Former Glass Haus Kitchen chef Ian Boden favors the old French classic cassoulet—slow-cooked meats like pork sausage or goose—paired with Foggy Ridge First Fruit cider, available at Feast!.
  • Chef Aaron Cross of Keswick Hall loves crock-pot chicken thighs with sauerkraut and caraway dumplings, with a glass of the 2011 King Family Meritage, which you can pick up at Foods of all Nations.
  • Free Union Grass Farm’s Erica Hellen’s go-to fall dinner is roasted chicken marinated in apple cider with roasted sweet potatoes, garden-picked kale salad, and a bubbly glass of Potter’s Craft Cider, available at Beer Run.
Categories
Living

An apple a day: Your guide to Virginia Cider Week

Get a taste of east and west at North Garden’s Albemarle Ciderworks on November 22, when it hosts a blind tasting. File photo

Thomas Jefferson must be smiling in his grave right about now. The resurgence of viticulture, agriculture, and hard cider surrounding his homeplace and spanning the breadth of the state is astounding. Virginia has not seen this much activity and excitement about fruit, whether it’s fermenting or not, since the early 1800s. Even during this technological age, we are reverting back to our historical roots. And those roots lead to the base of an apple tree.

Jefferson’s clairvoyant vision of viticulture and agriculture is unrivaled, and the resurgence of all of these components is especially apparent near Charlottesville. Heirloom apple varieties are currently grown at multiple orchards, both for eating and drinking, but lately it has been more frequently for the latter. Hard cider has regained popularity, especially the drier styles that are reminiscent of Champagne. Certain varietals of apples are grown to attain specific flavors, such as Hewe’s Crabapple, also known as Jefferson’s “table drink” because of the crisp dry flavors that accompany many foods.

Like wine, cider is a fermented fruit juice and the best fruit makes the best cider. Each year’s harvest in our unexpected climate proves new challenges, and blends are dependent on these obstacles. Cider and wine are also alike in that they are both forms of agriculture completely dependent on similar factors such as the weather, their shepherd, and the visionary at the helm of their flavor profile. Some are better for quenching thirst, and others are contemplative and complex, better suited for sipping slowly.

In Colonial America, cider was the drink of choice. John Adams attributed his health and longevity to drinking a tankard of cider before breakfast each day. As the Industrial Revolution progressed, the farms and orchards decreased, and Prohibition was the final straw. Orchards have been replanted and have gained strength ever since. Apple growth is at an all time high, thanks in part to modern “Jeffersonians” like Tom Burford, who grows more than 100 varieties at Albemarle Ciderworks (a.k.a. Vintage Virginia Apples). Burford is responsible for planting and reinvigorating numerous heirloom apple varieties that once flourished on the East Coast, like the Albemarle Pippin, Ashmead’s Kernel, Ralls, Baldwin, Winesap, and Esopus Spitzenburg, to name a few.

Another notable cidery in the area is Potter’s Craft Cider, owned and run by Tim Edmonds and Dan Potter. They make only two styles of cider, the Farmhouse Dry and the fuller-bodied Oak Barrel Reserve, but unlike most of the other cideries, Potter’s bottles its selections as well as kegs them for restaurant taps.

These, in addition to Castle Hill, Old Hill, Blue Bee (in Richmond), and Bold Rock, will be accessible during November’s Virginia Cider Week.

Celebrated during the second week of the month, the event kicks off at Feast! with a cider tasting featuring Virginia’s finest from noon-4pm on November 15.

On November 17 at Meriwether Springs Vineyard, Hill & Holler hosts a dim sum-style dinner party, with small plates passed on rolling carts so guests can sample both exquisite food and ciders simultaneously. Information and tickets can be found at hillandholler.org.

On November 20, learn to make cider at home during a free workshop at Fifth Season Gardening Co. from 6-8pm.

On November 22, celebrate the second annual “East/West Smackdown” at Albemarle Ciderworks from 6-8pm. This event involves blind tasting ciders from the East and West coasts. (It also involves cheese, which is always a bonus.)

Cider Week concludes November 23 at Castle Hill’s “Cider Fest” from 11am-5pm, featuring a plethora of cider samples and food, plus music from Love Canon.

Start doing your cider homework now before the celebration of this deliciously crisp (and historically hip) beverage commences.

 

Tracey Love is the event coordinator at Blenheim Vineyards, the sales and marketing associate for the Best of What’s Around farm, and proprietress of Hill & Holler.

Categories
Living

Umlaut or not: Fill your glass with a wine from Austria

Whether Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, or Grüner veltliner, wines from Austria are more than just a jumbled mix of letters and umlauts: They’re dry, well-crafted, and easily pairable whether white or red. File photo.

Austrian wines easily intimidate American oenophiles, who generally lack knowledge about wines from this country save for the 1985 diethylene glycol wine scandal, a.k.a. the “antifreeze scandal.” We tend to think of these wines as hard-to-pronounce grape varietals from unrecognizable regions with long names that are sticky on the tongue. So, that being said, let’s throw out all of those pretenses and taste some dry, well crafted, easily pairable white and red wines from Austria, shall we?

Austria and Germany are neighbors with a similar language, yet their wines differ in many ways. Austrian white wines hold a good deal of minerality and spice while remaining bright, crisp, and dry, where German whites posses an oily, off-dry minerality that stays on their side of the border. Grüner veltliner or “Gru-Ve” is the most recognizable white varietal grown in Austria and is the perfect go-to wine for every occasion.

Austria is divided into four major wine-growing regions—Neiderösterreich, Burgenland, Steier Mark (Styria), and Wien (Vienna)—each of which has specific sub regions. Neiderösterreich has eight specific wine growing sub regions. The region of Kamptal, within Neiderösterreich, is centered on the river Kamp and makes some of the best wines in the country. Wachau is in the west of Neiderösterreich, and is also home to some fine white wines, including the best selection of riesling. Weingut Josef Bauer makes a Pfarrleithen riesling from Wagram that is mind-blowingly good ($22.95 at Tastings). It is goldenrod yellow in color and packed with ripe stone fruit aromas, and has bright acidity without being piercing. The Steininger Kamptal Reserve Grüner Veltliner is one of my personal favorites with notes of green pea, apple, white pepper, and a mineral-driven finish ($25.99 at Wine Warehouse). It is dry, yet fruity, and is an excellent counterpart to any Asian dish, especially Vietnamese cuisine. It also pairs well with seafood, smoked ham, and bitter greens or salad, which are typically challenging to match. Grüner veltliner is usually affordable, with most bottles costing less than $20. On the higher end, the Nikolaihof “Hefeabzug” grüner veltliner from the Kamptal region ($29.99 at Wine Warehouse) is an amazing find. “Hefe” means “aged on lees,” which are the dead yeast cells that drop to the bottom of the barrel. This style adds a nice creaminess to the wine, and has a salty minerality with bigger bones and spice. The winery is Demeter-certified biodynamic and family-owned since 1894. Its goal is “to get as much power and energy into the wine as possible whilst interfering with nature as little as possible.” The family uses stinging nettles, valerian root drops, and valerian tea preparations on the soil, which act like homeopathic medicine for the grapevines to remain healthy. All of its wines go through natural fermentation, meaning no commercial yeast cells are added to get the fermentation process started.

With the weather transitioning to cooler nights and a hint of drying leaves in the air, we should all be drinking Austrian red wines. Starting with blaufränkisch, which is grown mostly in Austria and some in Germany and in the U.S., where it’s called lemberger. The wines are spicy, smoky, herbaceous, and lighter bodied, making them easy to pair with most foods. It’s a fun replacement for Pinot Noir or Gamay (which it closely resembles), hailing from Burgenland, on the eastern edge of Austria abutting Hungary. The Weingut Netzl Carnuntum Cuvee is a blend of blaufränkisch, zweigelt, and merlot ($15.99 at Wine Warehouse). It is deep ruby in color, with spicy fruit, dark berries, and juicy elegance with pleasant tannins. This wine would pair beautifully with roast duck. Wines from Leo Hillinger are prominent in stores around our area and they are a good starting place for trying out Austrian wines. The Leithaberg blaufränkisch ($32.99 at Wine Warehouse) is powerful and dark with notes of licorice, graphite, and blackberries.

For something a tad tamer, try the Hillinger Hillside Red, which is a meaty blend of syrah, merlot, and zweigelt ($24.99 at Tastings). The spice and white pepper notes from the syrah really show through and give this wine a nice kick to an otherwise juicy, yet full-bodied wine. This is a perfect substitute for someone who enjoys cabernet sauvignon and is trying to branch out of her comfort zone.

Of all the wines in Austria, zweigelt (a.k.a. blauer) has stolen my heart. It is the perfect marriage of savory and spicy, with good structure, medium to full body, and strong character. It also goes with everything. I have yet to find a dish that zweigelt hasn’t complemented, from Italian food to sushi. Hard to believe, right? The Steininger zweigelt Novemberlese from Kamptal is a good example of this varietal that is relatively easy to find on shelves. It gets its name because it is harvested in November and it possesses notes of red cherry and smoke, and pairs especially well with cured meats and charcuterie. But, like I said, give it a whirl with anything and you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

Tracey Love is the event coordinator at Blenheim Vineyards, the sales and marketing associate for the Best of What’s Around farm, and proprietress of Hill & Holler.

Categories
Living

Overheard on the restaurant scene…This week’s food news (September 9)

Pad ped from Thai '99. Photo: Elli Williams.

Let’s get right to the national buzz meter: Six Charlottesville restaurants have been accepted to participate in this fall’s Taste America Local Dish event, held by the James Beard Foundation, one of the nation’s premier culinary organizations. Throughout September and October, select restaurants around the country will create one dish that conveys their area’s local cuisine, and donate the proceeds from sales to the James Beard Foundation’s educational efforts. The Charlottesville restaurants are: Brookville, Clifton Inn, Fossett’s, Glass Haus Kitchen, Ivy Inn, and Tempo. Details of each dish will appear on the food website The Charlottesville 29 (charlottesville29.com).

The duo behind Boylan Heights, JR Hadley and Alan Taylor, recently opened Toro’s Tacos on The Corner. The concept includes 30 tequilas, tacos (duh), Luchador matches, and margaritas from 4pm-2am, Monday through Sunday. Ben Loquet is managing the bar and is the man behind the margarita and cocktail list, which boasts potential. No website yet, but it’s on Facebook.

Eddie Keomahathai, owner of the popular Thai ’99 on Fontaine Avenue and Bangkok ’99 in Crozet, recently opened Bangkok ’99 II Thai Cuisine & Bar in the Village Green Shopping Center, where he’ll be serving the same authentic Thai cuisine that put his previous restaurants high on the list of local favorites. Check it out at bangkok99usa.com.

Now & Zen will host another pop-up noodle bar where chef Toshi Sato will be slinging his addictive ramen on Sunday, September 22 and Monday, September 23. Prepare for it to be busy as he makes a damn good bowl of noodles. Hopefully the back dining room will be open again by that time.

Speaking of legends of their craft, Nick Crutchfield of Commonwealth Restaurant & Skybar has outdone himself behind the bar again, serving nitrous cocktails on draft. He’s tried a few thus far, including a cuba libre, dark & stormy, and currently the El Diablo, which is comprised of tequila blanco, hellfire shrub, lime, cassis, and fresh jalapeno. The nitrous pour gives the cocktail a unique freshness and light spritz. Do you really need another excuse to visit their bar?