Author: Tracey Love

Choosing wine is never easy, but it’s always a pleasurable challenge. The mere thought of heading to the local wine shop makes me giddy with anticipation, with so many possibilities looming behind those doors. But finding quality, everyday drinking wines under $20 is difficult, and even harder if you don’t know what to look for.

As a rule of thumb, wines from appellations neighboring some of the most famous in the world are about a third of the price, without compromising integrity. The areas of the Rhône and Loire valleys are some of the best examples. Domaine du Coing Chardonnay from the Loire Valley is versatile and crisp, due to being unoaked, allowing the fresh fruit notes of pears and quince to display prominently. Its lowly designation of a Vin de Pays, meaning “country wine,” makes its value underappreciated by the French—lucky for us ($10.99 at Market Street Wineshop).

Another great Loire Valley find is a Sauvignon Blanc made by Michel Langlois. Right off the bat, it’s pretty obvious they saved some money on label design, as it’s not much to look at, but that’s not nearly as important as what’s inside. The wine shows classic notes of grapefruit and refreshing minerality that come from the limestone and clay soils of its origin. This wine is best suited for those who prefer a fuller bodied, yet dry white wine ($12.99 at Market Street Market). In the Rhône Valley, value wines are easy to come by with plenty of Côtes du Rhône and village appellations to choose from. These wines, in a nutshell, are declassified Chateauneuf du Pâpe and Vaqueras wines, which come with much stricter wine laws and a hefty price tag. Michel Chapoutier’s Bila Haut is a Côtes de Roussillon Village-designated wine made from syrah, grenache, and carignan grapes ($13.99 at Market Street Market). It shows the savage aromas of syrah, the jammy spiciness of grenache, and the dried herb characteristics of carignan, making it a full-bodied, mineral-driven red wine suited for grilled meats and duck. The Chapoutier line of wines spans from high end, single origin appellations to organic and middle-of-the-road whites and reds.

I’m a sucker for Italian wines across the board, but the whites from Campania take the cake, and are often priced affordably, which make them a realistic option. They have personality, floral aromas, bright acidity, and an oily texture unmatched by other regions. The Cantina del Taburno Falanghina is optimal, with hints of lemon peel, pineapple, and supple ripe pear. It is well suited for seafood and light appetizers ($16.99 at Market Street Market).

Moving north to the Piedmont region, where some of the finest wines of the world are crafted, the G.D. Vajra Langhe Rosso comprises a mélange of pinot nero, dolcetto, nebbiolo, barbera, and albarossa. It is a lighter-bodied red wine with noticeable tannins (almost) rivaling its big brothers, Barolo and Barbaresco, while showing similar notes of bright cherry and violets. The family-owned and run winery makes fantastic expressions of those as well, but at an affordable price, this bottle can be enjoyed with greater frequency ($15.99 at Beer Run). It’s a solid match for charcuterie and aged hard cheeses, which cut through the sharp tannins.

The Folk Machine Tocai Friuli rivals its Italian heritage in the new world. It is round, creamy, and ripe, with candied lemon rind, grapefruit, and plenty of aromatics. This producer focuses on making quality, esoteric wines and has succeeded with this one. Serve it with Vietnamese food and the puzzle is complete ($14.99 at Greenwood Gourmet).

Austrian wines are often affordable and quaffable, with many Grüner Veltliners on the market that are thirst-quenching and don’t require much thought. Meinklang in Burgenland makes a Pinot Noir that is organic and biodynamic ($16.99 at Market Street Market). With this grape gaining popularity in the U.S., prices are going up in regions like Oregon and California, and have remained steadily high in France’s Burgundy region, but this one hovers within our everyday threshold. It is fresh, with notes of white pepper and jammy fruit, and easily packable for a picnic of prosciutto, cured meats, and cheese—it even has a screw cap! The wine is vegan and vegetarian friendly, even if the picnic foods aren’t.

Finding inexpensive local wines proved more challenging than anticipated, with many selections hovering right around or just over the $20 mark. The Pollak Vineyards rosé is made from the saignée (meaning “to bleed”) method from cabernet franc grapes. It’s refreshing and reminiscent of strawberry and rhubarb jam, but with a dry finish and vibrant acidity. Perfect for end-of-summer weather ($16 at Greenwood Gourmet).

Tracey Love is the event coordinator at Blenheim Vineyards, the sales and marketing associate for the Best of What’s Around farm, and proprietress of Hill & Holler.

Virginia is home to many international transplants—residents, tourists, students, laborers, and…vitis vinifera grapes. Every person and every grape planted here has been rooted elsewhere, and many have found a home amongst our mountains, valleys, and ever-changing climate.

Thomas Jefferson planted upwards of 30 European grape varieties at Monticello in the 1770s, which did not yield successful results. Gabriele Rausse tried again in the mid-1970s at what is now Barboursville Vineyards with better results. Now, with hundreds of wineries around the state, it is becoming more apparent which European varietals are better suited for our climate and our tastes than others.

Linden Vineyards was started by Jim Law in the 1980s, and he remains at the industry’s forefront. He makes a red blend called Claret, a compilation of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet Franc, merlot, carmenere, and petit verdot, which, with the exception of carmenere, are all grapes hailing from the Bordeaux region of France. The name Claret derives from the French word clairet, meaning light red wine, a nickname given to the reds of Bordeaux dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries, when the wines were as pale and light as rosé. Linden’s Claret is rich with herbal notes, black currant, blueberries, and a refreshingly crisp acidity (available at Tastings for $24.95).

Another famous French grape grown in our area is viognier. This fine, yet rare grape originated in the Northern Rhône area of France, known for its prestigious whites such as Condrieu, Chateau Grillet, and Côte Rôtie. The viognier grape exploded in popularity in the U.S. in the ’90s, and is widely planted from California to Virginia, with great success. The wines are aromatic and full-bodied, with notes of apricot, tropical fruit, and a lanolin texture. Grace Estates makes a fine example that’s estate-grown and only available in its tasting room for $22.95.

Chardonnay is grown everywhere, and is a malleable grape suited to many growing conditions and winemaking practices. It too thrives in our unpredictable climate, with origins in Burgundy, France, where it is a neutral, lean, crisp, and mineral-driven wine. Our warm climate makes for a fuller bodied style, with hints of apple, stone fruits, and often caramel or vanilla (depending on the use of oak barrels). Ankida Ridge Vineyards makes a stellar Burgundy-esque Chardonnay, with notes of Granny Smith apple, and a chalky minerality, which is available at Market Street Wineshops.

Both Syrah and Grenache hail from the Rhône Valley in France, where syrah rules the north in Côte Rôtie and Hermitage, and grenache reigns in the South. In Spain, this wine is called garnacha, and makes up 50 percent of the country’s total wine production. Syrah is lean and rustic, with undertones of smoked meat, damp earth, and cracked black pepper. Grenache is softer and rounder, with characteristics of ripe blueberries, black cherry, and leather. Syrah cuttings were brought to South Africa (where it was renamed Shiraz, as in Australia) in the 17th century by French Huguenots. Blenheim Vineyards makes an outstanding Syrah from grapes grown in the Shenandoah Valley. It has the classic characteristics of its French counterparts, and does not last long on shelves or in tasting rooms.

Blenheim’s winemaker, Kirsty Harmon, also released a single varietal grenache, which is lighter than traditional Rhône versions, and is lean, versatile, and impressive.

Italian varietals like barbera and nebbiolo are also popping up in vineyards around the state, with Barboursville making a delightful version of the former. It is bright and crisp with a lighter palate than other red wines, making it a diverse culinary partner brimming with acidity and black fruits. It is the most widely planted grape in Piedmont, Italy, and is slowly catching on here.

While nebbiolo is head honcho in its hometown (also Piedmont), where it is responsible for making some of the world’s finest Barolo and Barbaresco, it is still small potatoes in Virginia. However, Italian native Rausse has succeeded in making a fine reproduction. It is reticent of violets and tar, with massive tannins and ageability. The name of the grape is derived from nebbia, the thick fog that envelopes the hills of Piedmont in the fall when grapes are being picked, not unlike the fog over the Blue Ridge Mountains.

Slightly off the beaten path is Lemberger, or as it is known in Austria (by its German name), Blaufrankish. Hungarian growers brought it to the U.S. in the early 20th century, first planting it in British Columbia and then in Washington State in the 1940s. By the mid-1960s, it was considered to be the third best-suited grape for this climate. Ox Eye Vineyards in the Shenandoah Valley produces an excellent bottling (found at Feast! for $19.95), with notes of pepper, cranberry, and spice. It is the perfect pairing wine, while also being tame enough to drink on its own. Go out on a Lemberger and try it for yourself.

Tracey Love is the event coordinator at Blenheim Vineyards, the sales and marketing associate for the Best of What’s Around farm, and proprietress of Hill & Holler.

Hot weather screams for cold drinks, and in the summertime, nothing wets the whistle faster than chilled white wine. There are plenty of “patio pounders” on the market, meaning an inexpensive bottle of easily quaffable wine that takes little to no effort for the brain to compute, while delivering a much-needed respite from the heat. There are also a plethora of wines on the market that are a tad more serious, affordable, and easy to come by if you know what you’re looking for. Whether shopping for a beach vacation, an informal picnic, dinner party, or poolside, a white wine is just the thing.

For that first glass after relaxing on the beach, still waxy from sunscreen and gritty with sand, open (corkscrew not required!) a bottle of Meinklang Burgenland White. It is a perfectly crisp, floral, organic, and biodynamic blend of Grüner Veltliner and Muskat from Austria and retails for $12.99 at Wine Made Simple. This wine is ideal for sipping anytime, but will also accompany seafood and antipasti quite well. With dinner at the beach house (and assuming the day’s fresh catch is being grilled), I’d serve the Musar Jeune from Bekka Valley in Lebanon, which is an uncanny blend of viognier, vermentino, and chardonnay. It is a young, vibrant white that is un-oaked and leeches freshness. Wines from Lebanon are not commonplace, but this winery estate is one of the largest and its wines can be found at Wine Made Simple and at Market Street Wineshops for less than $20.

When selecting the perfect bottle to bring to a dinner party, test the waters with a unique wine from Hungary, typically know for its dessert wines. The Evolucio Furmint from Tokaj is an off dry, un-oaked white made from the furmint grape and possesses notes of citrus, apricot, and good minerality. It is a fuller bodied wine that would accompany fish, chicken, and spicy foods. Foods of All Nations sells it for a mere $10.99.

Another choice would be the Sauvignon Blanc from Barboursville Vineyards ($17 at Wine Made Simple). Perhaps your host is unfamiliar with the delights of Virginia wine, so introduce her to a whole new world of local vino. This one is piercingly crisp, with notes of grapefruit and green apple, and everyone recognizes the varietal, which is always a safe bet.

For the impromptu picnic, pack a bottle of the ultimate summer wine, Txakoli (pronounced “chacoli”) from Spain’s Basque region. This young, fruity, high acidity white wine is an ideal treat for a sweaty outdoor afternoon. Made from two grapes, hondarrabi zuri and hondarrabi beltza, it is lower in alcohol and develops a slight spritz during the fermentation process, adding to its refreshing qualities. Foods of All Nations has three to choose from, one of which is a rosé.

Summer just isn’t complete without barbeque—and there are wines to go with that, too. The ‘Tami’ Frappato from Occhipinti in Sicily is hard to beat on its own, but tastes as if it were made to keep barbeque company. The winemaker is a mere 30 years old, yet her wines are more complex and intriguing than those made by folks with decades more experience. Frappato is a grape that is grown predominantly in Sicily, and despite the hot climate of Southern Italy, it is surprisingly light and floral, reticent of roses and dried herbs.

Another fascinating Italian red wine is the De Angelis Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio from the region of Campania, with Aglianico and Piedirosso grapes grown on the volcanic soils of the famous volcano, Vesuvio. It is also fruity and floral, with characteristics of raspberry and plum preserves, but has a spicy, peppered finish unlike any other wine I’ve tasted ($21.99 at Foods of All Nations).

For the iconoclastic “patio pounder” I’d choose something light, bubbly, and lower in alcohol, such as the Lodali Moscato D’Asti, which is slightly sweet and smelling of honeysuckle. It’s too easy to gulp this wine, but that’s the point right?

A proprietary white wine blend of pinot blanc, pinot gris, riesling, and gewürtztraminer from Brooks Winery in Oregon’s Willamette Valley is another strong selection. It’s crisp and revitalizing but also elegant and multifaceted, making it certain to cool you off, and no doubt finish the bottle (found at Wine Made Simple and Market Street Wineshops).

Now, get out there and start sipping—it’s not going to get any cooler!

Tracey Love is the event coordinator at Blenheim Vineyards, the sales and marketing associate for the Best of What’s Around farm, and proprietress of Hill & Holler.

When faced with the decision of what to drink with dinner (or while cooking dinner), when a white just isn’t enough and a red is too much, rosé bridges the gap of indecision. Possessing a lovely pinkish hue and noticeable tannins, a rosé is extremely food-friendly, while also drinkable on its own.

Known around the world by many names (rosé in France, rosado in Spain, rosato in Italy, and as outdated “blush” in many parts of the United States), most rosés begin just like red wines, whereby red grapes are destemmed, crushed, and fermented. However, instead of spending a few weeks on the grape skins, with pulp and seeds intact, the juice is pressed after a few hours up to a full day. The relatively short period of skin contact allows enough time to make the wine pink, and adds a touch of tannin.

The second method of making rosé is a process called saigneé, literally meaning “to bleed,” during which the excess juice from an already fermenting red wine is drained off. It also simultaneously helps to concentrate the original red wine. This process is used to make many of the rosés in Provence, France. Two of the more well-known rosés from this region are Domaine Tempier and Chateau Pradeaux, both blends of cinsault and mourvedre hailing from Bandol, the only region in the world making mourvedre-based red wines. These rosés are redolent of white flowers and honey, with ripe tannins and a dusty finish—a perfect match for grilled chicken and pork.

When it comes to seasonal summer foods, rosé makes the easiest pairing for just about anything. Pizza topped with fresh arugula, tomatoes, and pesto is sublime with the Proprieta Sperino Rosa del Rosa 2012 from Piemonte, Italy (found at Wine Warehouse). It is nebbiolo- and vespolina-based, giving this wine a slight orange color reminiscent of its red counterpart. Grilled beef and lamb are highlighted, not overwhelmed, by the Charles & Charles rosé from Columbia Valley, Washington. It’s a blend of what would have been full-bodied red grapes—syrah, mourvedre, cinsault, and grenache.

Sausage Craft, based out of Richmond, makes specialty small-batch sausage (sold at Greenwood Gourmet Grocery) such as Carmelina’s, San Miniato, and Bratwurst that are quick grillables, and an ideal accompaniment to any rosé. Edmunds St. John “Bone-Jolly” Gamay Noir Rosé from El Dorado County, California, will chill the heat of any of these spicy offerings. Light in body, with hints of melon, and thirst-quenching gulpability, “There aren’t many kinds of food this wine won’t make more fun to eat,” winemaker Steve Edmunds said. This wine can be found at Market Street Wineshop (Uptown) and Greenwood.

Favorite local selections include Pollak Vineyards’ 100 percent cabernet franc rosé, which elicits notes of strawberry and rhubarb, a dry finish, and a desire to drink the whole bottle (whether food is ready or not). Keeping it in the neighborhood, Veritas Vineyard & Winery also presents a refreshing blend of cabernet franc and merlot that is bright in color and spirit, making it the ideal beach wine when served chilled alongside fresh seafood.

Since we live in a Southern state lush with good barbeque, rosé stands up to the diversity of the assorted flavors of smoky pulled pork, vinegary slaws, and gooey baked beans. The Jean Maurice Raffault Chinon, another cabernet franc from the Loire Valley, has a piercing acidity and crisp, clean finish that cuts through any fat, while matching the citrus or vinegar in accompanying sauces and sides. I was pleasantly surprised by the selection at Wine Warehouse.

Europeans caught the rosé bug long before Americans, and their cuisine balances the wines miraculously. Try a few tapas at MAS while sipping on the classic rosado from Muga in Rioja. Garnacha based with a touch of the white grape viura to lend brightness, it has hints of strawberry and raspberry, and finishes dry with subtle lingering fruit that begs for just one more taste.

Tracey Love is the event coordinator at Blenheim Vineyards, the sales and marketing associate for the Best of What’s Around farm, and proprietress of Hill & Holler.

If rain is Oregon’s best-known cliché, then Pinot Noir is the runner-up. With May celebrating Oregon Wine Month, and the Willamette Valley being one of my favorite wine regions in the world, what better time than now to delve into this sustainable wine mecca?

Viticulturally, Oregon is a big state, with five AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) of varied terrain, climate, and soils. The largest of these is the Willamette (pronounced Will-AM-ette, it rhymes with dammit) Valley, which stretches southwest of Portland and runs for 100 miles south to Eugene, with the Coast Ranges to the west and the Cascades to the east. The Willamette Valley is situated an hour from Portland and the coast, about 30 minutes from a plethora of mushroom foraging, biking, hiking, and moss-saturated adventures in the mountains. The area has it all—including a rainy season lasting from October to May, which creates challenges for winemakers.

“The weather—that’s the biggest issue in growing grapes here in the Willamette Valley, which can be a positive and a negative,” said David Lett of Willamette’s Eyrie Vineyards. “The negative is that if it rains at the wrong time you’re had. The positive, of course, is having the great wines that come out of here.”

Lett set up shop in the northern section of the Willamette Valley, where he uprooted 20 acres of prune trees to plant Pinot Noir and establish Eyrie (which is currently run by his son, Jason). His peers thought he was crazy to grow grapes in such a wet, cold, and unpredictable climate, but his foresight and perseverance led the way to many world-class wines. In 1970, Jim Maresh, David Adelsheim, and a few others planted vines in the Dundee Hills, which is now the most concentrated wine region in the Willamette Valley.

But Oregon wine is more than just Willamette. The Tualatin Valley has a group of good, primarily white, vineyards in the north. Heading south, the Chehalem Mountains grow some of the finest fruit. The Eola Hills south of McMinnville also produce some great wines. Brooks Winery, located on the Eola Crest, makes some of the most intriguing wines in the area. Winemaker Chris Williams has a natural skill with all grapes (some of which are estate grown) but shines with Amycas, a blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Muscat, and Riesling. It is crisp with a touch of minerality and a lot of personality. Try a bottle at the Ivy Inn Restaurant or Greenwood Gourmet Grocery.

The backbone and vision of the first grapes grown in Oregon are based on two great European styles of wine—the Rieslings of the Rhine and Mosel valleys in Germany, which are flinty and mineral driven, and classic Pinot Noirs from Burgundy, with refreshing acidity and red cherry fruit. Pinot Noir reigns, but Pinot Gris and Chardonnay are sneaking up behind. The Amalie Robert Chardonnay is a fine example of this subtle, Chablis-style chardonnay, handcrafted by Dena Drews and Ernie Pink at their winery near Salem. Find it at Beer Run for $25.99 per bottle.

As for Pinot Noirs, Belle Pente’s 2010 has complex aromas of mint, red fruit, flowers, and smoke, and is available at Greenwood Gourmet Grocery. Cameron Winery consistently makes solid Pinot Noir, and sources from a few vineyards throughout the Willamette Valley; the 2005 Abbey Ridge in Dundee is stellar and lean, with bright cherry fruit notes, and reminiscent of red burgundy; and Left Coast Cellars does an excellent job of making quality, affordable wines that are versatile and accessible. The 2011 Cali’s Cuvée Pinot Noir is a great accompaniment to light meats and charcuterie at the Ivy Inn, or on the shelf at Beer Run.

What truly differentiates Oregon winemakers from their peers? A lack of ego. “It really started out with a bunch of well-educated hippies sitting around in meadows passing around bottles, critiquing each other,” said Josh Bergstrom of Bergstrom Winery in Newberg. “It was all about sharing information. [That mentality] is still very much alive today.”

In Oregon, the close relationship between winemakers, alongside an overall sense of camaraderie, has created a truly unique wine-based community. With a laid back attitude, and a strong focus on sustainability, Oregon wines are only gaining strength and popularity. As long as the rain doesn’t get in the way.

Tracey Love is the event coordinator at Blenheim Vineyards, the sales and marketing associate for the Best of What’s Around farm, and proprietress of Hill & Holler.

Like Italian food, Italian wine has an innate, comforting presence that draws you in and keeps you coming back for more. Regardless of where in Italy it comes from, good Italian wine (and food) speaks to the soul.

Once simply cheap jug wine and basket-wrapped bottles of Chianti, Italian wine has morphed into a respectable, drinkable, and lovable product. On recent trips to New York and San Francisco, I was shocked at how many non-Italian restaurants featured mostly Italian wine lists, but I shouldn’t have been: Many Italian wines (both white and red) are affordable, complex, and extremely versatile with food.

While Tuscan darlings like Chianti and Piedmont showstoppers like Barolo and Barbaresco were introduced and admired initially, the jewels of southern Italy are on the rise. The wines from Apulia (Puglia in Italian), like Negroamaro, Primitivo, and Nero d’Avola, are perfect examples of full-bodied, spicy reds with dried fruit characteristics. The Fatalone Teres Primitivo (found at Tastings) is lighter in style than most Primitivos, with notes of dried flowers and blackberries, and is a real treat with antipasti.

Campania is a southern Italian region surrounding Naples that makes intriguing whites like Greco di Tufo, with honeyed aromas and bracing acidity. Wines from this region, such as Falanghina and Aglianico, have been accepted and adapted for their uniqueness and versatility. The predominant red wine of this region is Aglianico (pronounced al-YAHN-i-co), which tends to have full tannins, a leathery texture, and pronounced smokiness. Like nebbiolo, the grape in Barolos and Barbarescos—or sangiovese, the main ingredient in Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino, Aglianico—can be rough when opened young. Its tannic structure and notes of tar and chewing tobacco make it a wine that’s better suited with food. At Orzo, you can sample the Grotta del Sole Aglianico (for $9 per glass) with the Bolognese with Italian rigatoni, pomodoro, chili flakes, and cream.

Barbaresco is the Piedmont twin of Barolo, but not necessarily its identical twin. Like Barolo, Barbaresco is made from the nebbiolo grape, which is thick skinned and grows on the hillside slopes of the region. Both have aromas of red fruits, rose petals, licorice, and tar, with good acidity balanced with fierce tannins. These wines need age, and a lot of it. They differ in size of the vineyards planted, with Barbaresco being only one third the size of Barolo. Technically speaking, Barolo must be aged for three years, with two in barrel before it can be released, where Barbaresco is required to age only two years, with one in barrel. Historically, Barolo is often portrayed as being the “masculine” and Barbaresco as “feminine.” Practically, this means nothing as they are often indistinguishable. Glass Haus Kitchen has the 2008 Montaribaldi Palaxxina Barbaresco, which pairs fantastically with the Best of What’s Around ribeye with “dirty oats” (which is a play on dirty rice made with Anson Mills heirloom oats), housemade malt vinegar, glazed shallots, celery, and red wine sauce.

But back to Chianti. Located in Tuscany, it’s widely known as a popular Italian wine region, and sangiovese is its star grape. It is also a region where the quality and style of winemaking differ substantially. These wines can be thin, soft, rough, and dull, or they can be some of the finest examples of Sangiovese made anywhere. The Buondonno Chianti Classico Riserva ($76 at tavola) is a prime example of what wines from this region taste like when they’re made well. Another example of the versatility of this grape can be found at Clifton Inn, where you’ll find Sassetto Sangiovese di Romagna 2009 by the glass for $11. This wine is unfiltered and lighter in body and oak than those from Chianti. It pairs delightfully with the restaurant’s rye spaetzle with housemade pastrami, pickled cabbage, and crème fraiche.

The white wines of Tuscany are often overlooked yet are affordable, quaffable, and versatile. The Elisabetta Toscana Vermentino ($32 at Duner’s) is a perfect complement to the panko-crusted fried oysters with red pepper aioli. Vermentino is typically grown along the sea in places like Liguria, where fish and seafood are prevalent, lending itself as an easy match. Red wines from Liguria are not as commonly found in the U.S., but Orzo Kitchen & Wine Bar has the Durin Rossese ($39), which stands up to the grilled octopus with potato gnocchi, chorizo sugo, green olives, and merguez sausage.

With the plethora of food and wine out there, my heart always seems to be drawn right back to Italy. I’m just glad to know I’m not alone.

Virginia wine began as a collaboration between Thomas Jefferson and the Italian merchant Filipo Mazzei. But between war and pestilience, the dynamic duo wasn’t really able to ever make great wine. They did, however, realize that the name of the game was adapting European varietals to American soil. Virginia wine as we know it today began when Gianni Zonin brought Gabriele Rausse to Barboursville Vineyards in 1976 and they figured out how to graft Vitis vinifera. Now the Italian love story has come full circle, as the folks at Barboursville (three-time Governor’s Cup winners) have for the first time created a Virginia Pinot Grigio.

The grape accommodates many adaptations in name, style, and place. In Italy, it’s known as Pinot Grigio, in Germany as Grauburgunder or Rulander. It’s called Malvoisie in Switzerland, and in Alsace it was formerly Tokay—now Pinot Gris. Due to international marketing in the United States, Pinot Grigio is more widely recognized than Pinot Gris, but both names are acceptable. In Australia, Pinot Grigio indicates a dry and crisp style, whereas Pinot Gris refers to a richer and weightier wine.

Pinot Gris, like Pinot Blanc, is a natural mutation of the Pinot Noir grape and translates to “gray pinot” because of its bluish-silver to mauve-pink skin color, and the word pinot is derived from “pinecone,” due to the grapes’ tightly banded clusters. The color of the wine itself also varies depending on grape color and style of winemaking (the wine darkens and develops deeper tannins with longer maceration).

The style varies dramatically based on growing climate, the attitude of the winemaker, and location. In Italy, Pinot Grigio can be simple, light, and refreshing, or opulent, rich, and honeyed.

The regions of Collio and Collio Orientali are renowned largely for their un-oaked, viscous whites derived from warm growing conditions and low yields. This area is considered to be one of the best white wine regions in Italy and lies in the province of Friuli Venezia Giulia on the border of Slovenia. Collio has earned the DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) classification, which ranks the second highest in Italy. The Venica “Jesera” Pinot Grigio from Collio has a subtle pinkish hue, with crisp, lightly floral notes, and is one of my favorites from this region. It can be found at Market Street Wineshops for $21.99.

The Vie di Romans Dessimis Pinot Grigio from Friuli is a highlight on the wine list at tavola with its citrusy, slightly floral notes, making it a perfect complement to any of the restaurant’s Italian seafood dishes.

Moving further north in Alto Adige lies Abbazia di Novacella, a working 12th century Augustinian abbey producing some of the finest wines available. The Pinot Grigio posseses hints of white flowers, pear, and anise; pairs well with cheese and cured meats; and can be found at Tastings of Charlottesville for $22.95.

Also near this area is the Sudtirol (South Tyrol), which was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until WWI. This area has a strong German inclination in food and language, with a shared culture between both Italy and Germany. The wines from this region are often packaged in slender bottles (as are most Alsatian whites), with labels written in both languages. Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro makes a fantastic Pinot Grigio from this region, with notes of lemon curd and apple blossom. Find it at Market Street Wineshops for $12.99 (a bargain!) and pair it with seafood and spicy dishes.

Alsace, in the very northern part of France, is acclaimed for its Pinot Gris d’Alsace and Pinot Blanc. These wines are markedly different than Pinots from any other area. The grapes grow on steep terraced vineyards with little water, and produce light, innocuous, dry wines that still maintain a mouth-wateringly unctuous texture. The J. Fritsch Pinot Gris at Tastings is a classic example of this region for $21.95.

Oregon has become the leader in producing fantastically rich, yet bright Pinot Gris. These wines are ripe and crisp, with notes of juicy pear, melon, fresh citrus, and a medium-to-full body. Giradet is one of southern Oregon’s oldest wine estates, located in the Umpqua Valley. Second-generation winemaker Marc Giradet makes a luscious Pinot Gris, which matches sublimely with salmon and oily fish. It’s poured occasionally by the glass (and always by the bottle) at Tastings for $19.95.

Also in the Northwest, in neighboring Washington State, you’ll find the Sineann Wy’east Vineyard Pinot Gris from Columbia Gorge, which is a good pour at Market Street Wineshops for under $20.

Many of the spring classes offered by PVCC’s Workforce Series will focus specifically on cooking and food. Here’s a look at what you can expect this semester. (Bonus: Many of the classes will be held in the newly renovated Jefferson School City Center!)

Jack Hanny, former White House visiting chef and author of Secrets from the White House Kitchens, will teach “From the White House to Your House” on Mondays from 6-9pm. Unlock the secrets of official White House recipes (and favorite dishes of former presidents!) for $89.

Learn the fundamentals of soups, stocks, and sauces with Chef Dean Maupin of C&O Restaurant in a two-part class on Tuesday, March 5 and 26 from 6-8pm for $159.

Keep it local with CIA graduate and Darden food and beverage director Tom Cervelloni, who is instructing on creative ways to prepare local foods throughout the year. The $99 classes are taught on Monday, February 25 and Tuesday, February 26, from 5:30-7:30pm.

If oenology and viticulture pique your interest, join godfather of Virginia wine Gabriele Rausse in a part-lecture, part-field study of how to start a vineyard. Learn the principles and practices of grapevine production from the best throughout the semester. Cost for four classes is $109 on select Tuesdays from March-June.

Winemaker Matthieu Finot will lead a one-day class on the tasting and analysis of wine from 9am-5pm on May 18 for $109 at King Family Vineyards. The basis of the class is to develop the palate for describing the taste and aromas of wine.

The full class schedule can be found online at digital.pvcc.edu/i/97583 or by e-mailing workforce@pvcc.edu.

Beyond champagne
Greg Hirson, assistant winemaker at Blenheim Vineyards, will teach a sparkling wine class in the tasting room that goes beyond just the realm of champagne. He has selected sparkling wines from around the world to be tasted, discussed, and analyzed. He will address the fundamentals of sparkling wine production, where it comes from, and what exists outside the small appellation of Champagne. The class is on Monday, January 28 from 6-8pm and costs $40 ($35 for wine club members). E-mail greg@blenheim vineyards.com for reservations.

Got a tip for us? E-mail bites@c-ville.com.

Whisky’d away
Just in time for holiday shopping, Virginia Highland Malt whisky, from the Virginia Distillery Company, arrived in 80 Virginia ABC stores earlier this month. Grab a bottle of this local offering, which the press release notes has “a lovely acacia honey and ginger flavor from the Scottish whisky with the added notes of dark chocolate, tobacco, and raspberry from the Virginia port-style wine barrels.” For more information about the project to produce Scotch whiskey in Nelson County, visit vadistillery.com.

The last supper
It’s a wonder why chefs enjoy playing the oddly morose game of selecting their final meal with one another, but their efforts may have paid off, as Brookville Restaurant will host a seven-course tasting menu in preparation (and celebration?) of the end of the Mayan calendar on Thursday, December 20. Chef Harrison Keevil has prompted the Charlottesville community for suggestions in choosing the menu, and will be “taking orders” on Facebook (@ Brookville Restaurant) through December 18. The menu will depend on seasonality and will draw six of the courses from entries, with the final decision being Keevil’s personal last meal choice, posted on December 19. $60 gains you entry to this once-in-a-lifetime meal. Make reservations online at brookvillerestaurant.com or by calling 202-2791.

Going down swilling
If the world really is set to end on Friday, December 21, we might as well go out with a bang. Glass House Winery will throw an “End-of-the-World Costume Party” from 5-10pm on Friday, December 21, with live music from Yankee Dixie. It will be a (somewhat) festive affair, where attendees are asked to dress in their costume of choice. The options are Mayan (pre-apocalypse), Zombie (post-apocalypse), or a Bright and Brave new beginning (imagination required). Since it’s an informal potluck, guests may bring their own picnic food to the event, but are also asked to bring snacks or finger food to contribute to the community food table for others to enjoy. For more information, call 975-0094.