With Barboursville to the east and Staunton to the sun—er, west, Charlottesville’s practically bookended by the Bard. Four County Players’ offerings set the Swan of Avon’s best work at the Barboursville Ruins, the remains of a Jefferson-designed mansion, while at the American Shakespeare Center you can get a taste of the playwright’s Globe Theater (read: It’s the world’s only recreation of the historic setting!).
Thomas Jefferson wrote only one book during his lifetime, Notes on the State of Virginia. He published it while serving as Minister to France, first anonymously in a limited private edition in 1785, then in a public edition in 1787. It’s a monumentally important work, offering a window into Jefferson’s thinking about democracy, religion, race, and more. As you can imagine, it’s not easy to get your hands on one of those first editions. If you can find one at all, a well-preserved copy even of the 1787 edition will run you tens of thousands of dollars.
Kinsey Marable has owned several.
Marable is a bookseller of an unusual sort. He has no storefront. He lives on a farm just outside of Charlottesville, hunting and collecting out-of-print books for his buyers from a cottage on the property. He usually trades not in single volumes (though he’s more than willing to seek out a single volume if someone needs it), but in whole collections, whole libraries.
The libraries he builds are studiously composed, ranging from a few dozen books to a few thousand. His specialty is in what he calls “country house libraries,” focused on books about architecture, sport, food, drink, and the like. But he’ll accept any challenge. He’s built libraries about true crime and libraries about alchemy. He’s working now on one collection entirely devoted to Italy, and another collection—3,000 volumes—about democracy and liberty. He has even put together a library for Oprah Winfrey, consisting of first editions of every single Pulitzer-winning novel.
Marable began his professional life as a securities trader, of all things, for Goldman Sachs. The job took him often to London, where he discovered the joys of combing out-of-print bookshops for unusual volumes. Books gradually grew more interesting than finance, so he left Goldman, and under the mentorship of the legendary Jane Stubbs, who ran an eclectic and beloved art and book shop in New York, opened up his own shop in Georgetown selling books and library furniture.
Those years gave him his practical education in the book business. “I had no background in this,” Marable recalls. “I was interested in books, I liked buying books for myself, but the only way I really learned was by traveling, and traveling a lot, to bookshops—all up and down the East Coast, a lot in England, even to France a couple of times, just to buy books.” He sources many of his books online these days (though more often he buys whole libraries from others), but of course that wasn’t an option when he started. And Marable is grateful for that. “By spending all this time going bookshop to bookshop, I found this huge range of books I never knew existed. It was the visual, looking through these books all through the country. Otherwise, I don’t know what I would have done. I don’t think I would have been able to do it.”
Picking the right cheese can be overwhelming—there are so many choices—so we had a quick cheesy chat with local cheesemongers Ivan Rodriquez from Foods of Nations and Elias Reyes from Feast!, on what they look for in the perfect fromage. Hint: Manchego for the win.
C-VILLE: Cow, sheep, or goat’s milk cheese?
IR: To me, I would have to say sheep cheeses are the best. My favorite quality is the nutty flavor typically found in most sheep cheese. Unlike goat cheeses, they aren’t usually tangy but consist of a buttery richness that is very approachable to the majority of people interested in cheese. Sheep cheese has something to offer to every cheese-lover.
ER: All are unique, but goat’s milk is my choice because it has a more powerful flavor that shines through when cooking and making a cheeseboard. Our goat gouda is my favorite and is always a hit with children and adults. The local dill and garlic chevre is a customer favorite spread on our housemade crostini.
What’s one must-have cheese you have at home?
IR: Truffle manchego to me is an absolute must-have. Manchego is one of the best cheeses in the world and comes in a variety of ages and flavors, but truffles take this to another level. Truffles add a nice mushroom flavor with a wonderful aroma to the cheese itself.
ER: With our broad selection I can’t keep it to just one, so… My must-have-at-home cheeses are the one-year aged Vermont Shelburne cheddar for making grilled cheese sandwiches for my son, and our Reserva Spanish manchego for the rich, nutty flavor of sheep’s milk that goes great with an after-work beer.
Charlottesville is famously late to the trend game (anyone remember the national cupcake craze of the early aughts…which hit the ’ville about 10 years later?), but we’re (almost) right on time with this one: Birria—a regional Mexican stew of goat, garlic, cumin, bay leaves, thyme, and chili peppers, slow-stewed—has taken Charlottesville by storm, with nine (and counting!) restaurants and taco trucks serving it on their menus to date. Throw in Mexican Taco at City Market, which serves it as a rare special, and Good Waffles & Co., which sometimes sells birria with its fries, and C’ville has birria loaded up with all the spins.
With roots in Jalisco, Birria was popularized in Tijuana through birrierias, after taquero Don Guadalupe Zárate opened a street stand in the 1950s. Los Angeles first got hip to birria in the early 2000s, when restaurants began serving it as tacos de birria, birria en caldo, and quesabirria, but recent articles from The New York Times and Eater (not to mention a “Taco Chronicles” episode on the spicy stew) has given it a resurgence.
Quesabirria is what’s really making mouths water in our area—birria and melted cheese in a corn tortilla, served with that riquisimo consommé, topped with white onions and cilantro, and finished with a squeeze of lime. Most spots serve birria with beef instead of goat, since the fat content, cost, and availability of it fares better in Charlottesville.
Wanna try them all? Let’s go, birria crawl-style. Start at 10am Tuesday through Saturday to make sure all the spots are open.
Let’s taco ’bout it!
Tacos Gomez (above)(1348 Long St.)
La Michoacana Taqueria & Restaurant
(1138 E. High St.)
Taqueria El Comalito
(905 E. Market St.)
The Bebedero
(201 W. Main St., Downtown Mall)
Remy’s La Mejor
(600 Preston Ave.)
El Tako Nako Food Truck
(2405 Hydraulic Rd.)
Plaza Azteca Mexican Restaurant
(101 Seminole Ct.)
Taqueria El Chavo
(1215 Seminole Trail)
Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant
(various locations)
Nothing beats the feeling of scoring a sweet secondhand find. Whether you think of thrifting as an art, habit, hobby, or lifestyle, here are the best places to pop some tags.
Rethreads Charlottesville: A multi-room boutique with eclectic apparel (and more!) for modern- and vintage-lovers, with size- and gender-inclusive options.
Twice is Nice: You can always score a fashionable vintage dress here, plus modern wearable clothes, accessories, and shoes.
High Tor Gear Exchange: Nab lightly used name-brand athletic apparel at this Allied Street shop, as well as used outdoor gear and equipment.
Low: The city’ OG vintage shop, find everything from costume jewelry to perfectly worn-in denim to romantic lingerie.
SPCA Rummage: The highlight here? The rummage store’s glass and kitchenware.
Arsenic & Old Lace: The folks at this downtown shop stick to vintage rules (it must be 40 years old). Find cool clothes and funky décor.
Schoolhouse Thrift Shop: Clothes for men and women, plus a robust kid’s section, set in a charming schoolhouse off Rio Road.
Natalie Dressed: Contemporary clothing and accessories for men, women, and children.
Darling & Dashing Boutiques: From Linnea White (of Darling notoriety) recently came Dashing—a secondhand clothing for men.
Agents in Style Luxury Consignment Boutique: Luxury and designer—think Chanel! Louis Vuitton! Marc Jacobs!—handbags, shoes, and women’s clothing on the Downtown Mall.
A functioning—thriving—wine culture like the Monticello AVA requires participation on both sides of the equation: winemakers cultivate varieties of grapes while locals curate and encourage community.
But when oenophile Tasha Durrett relocated from northern Virginia to Charlottesville for a job opportunity, she found herself craving more social and educational opportunities at local wineries. Hoping to make space for herself and other Black women in those environments, she launched Black Women Who Wine.
“We’re an organization I started in 2019, for the purpose of working to increase visibility of Black women who enjoy wine and participate in the wine industry,” she says.
Durrett, who by day is a communications manager for Southern Environmental Law Center, delved into the wine world as soon as she was able to legally drink. “My parents enjoy wine and spirits,” she says, “so I learned a lot from them.”
Around once a month, Black Women Who Wine coordinates wine tastings with local wineries for groups of seven to 14 women through its website, blackwomenwhowine.com. Durrett focuses on merging socializing with education, giving Black women a space to engage with the wine community and each other.
“I want to know how things work and what others think of them,” says Durrett, a self-proclaimed “naturally curious person.” She is studying for the Wine & Spirit Education Trust certification, which helps those looking to teach others about wine and spirits. With the certification, she’ll be able to continue growing Black Women Who Wine, and establishing the group’s presence on the Charlottesville wine scene.
“We want to build relationships with wineries throughout Virginia and I want to see more opportunities for black women in that space,” she says. “We’re here to take up space and enjoy wine.”
It’s no secret Charlottesville is home to a wonderful food and wine scene—situated in the middle of Virginia wine country, benefiting from strong ties to farm-to-table culture, and featuring outstanding chef-driven restaurants and diverse cuisine. In this environment, it should not be a surprise that many local wine shops also flourish. All the favorites presented here feature knowledgeable staff to help find the bottle that best suits your taste and needs, but every shop also has its own focus and character, and part of the fun is finding the one that best suits you.
Market Street Wine
First opened in 1979, Market Street is a mainstay that “relaunched” in 2018 when the former owner decided to retire, and two employees purchased the shop rather than let it close. Now, the focus is on organic, biodynamic, and natural wine from small and family-owned wineries. In addition to focusing on these “wines with stories,” owner Siân Richards wants the store to make “everyone feel welcome in the world of wine.”
Wine Warehouse
For more than two decades, Wine Warehouse has been a no-frills shop that takes pride in a broad and carefully curated collection representing both quality and value. The novice and experienced wine drinker alike will find something to love here, and the staff does an excellent job of making approachable suggestions whether you know nothing about wine or want to talk about all the esoteric details. Widely known among area wine lovers as the store where “if you can’t find it, they can find it for you,” they also feature an amazingly complete selection of craft beers from all over the world.
In Vino Veritas
Owner Erin Scala describes her store as “global selections focused on small producers.” At the same time, Scala features a selection of high-quality Virginia wines on her shelves, and is a great supporter of the local industry. Scala, an experienced sommelier who also oversees the wine and beverage program for Common House, is the true attraction here, and her deep knowledge, professionalism, relationships with winemakers, and infectious enthusiasm for the world of wine encourages customers to try new things and dig deeper on old favorites.
Bottle House
Bottle House opened in 2020 and has quickly become known for its hospitality, as wine lovers take advantage of its central location on West Main and free tastings that often feature unusual or higher-end wines. The owners, Daniel Kaufman, who also owns Public Fish & Oyster directly across the street, and Guillaume Gasparini, a sommelier and part of the family who formerly owned Restaurant Pomme in Gordonsville, focus on more classic wines. Their knowledge and experience bring depth to the inventory and there is no hesitation to bring in high-quality bottles—something connoisseurs will appreciate.
Crushpad
A new offering on the Downtown Mall from local restauranter Vincent Derquenne, well-known locally for both his palate and his personal wine cellar. The question can be asked, is Crushpad a wine bar with delicious food that also sells wine, or is it a retail wine shop that begs the customer to linger with inviting seating and wonderful small bites? Whatever question you are asking, Crushpad is the answer. The food is a step above the average wine bar, and the carefully selected offerings clearly reflect a deep love of wine. Those with a soft spot for large format bottles and Champagne will find simpatico here.
Small business owners push hard to keep the gears of entrepreneurship moving and oiled, and Mohammed Alazazi is no exception.
Originally from Iraq, Alazazi doesn’t have a background in the grocery business—encouragement from his culture, wife, sons, and in-laws inspired him to represent and sell the food that feeds them. Hummus Grocery is his first business venture, and he spent a long time debating whether or not to open the store.
“My wife supports me so much,” Alazazi says. “Without her, I wouldn’t be able to open this business—or do anything else.”
Alazazi brings most of his inventory from Michigan, where larger Middle Eastern distributors are thriving. He makes the trip—a 10-hour drive one way—once a month.
Hummus Grocery has been open for two months, selling varieties of Middle Eastern beverages, tahinis, spices, dry goods, and frozen items. But the real showstoppers are his fresh hummus (obviously) and tabbouleh, which he plans to eventually make part of a full menu.
“Once I get the proper licenses, I want to start selling sandwiches, like shawarma and falafel,” he says.
Considering the cost of commercial sinks and other equipment, as well as the time for a kitchen buildout, Alazazi says he’s “going to start step by step. I’m giving it my best.”
You might expect that The Bradbury—that monumental, stone building with carved columns on the Downtown Mall—has a storied history. It stands out with an allure of grandeur. That expectation is realized by stepping into the tiled grand hall with parallel rows of towering columns and a high, echoing ceiling.
Designed in 1916 by prolific Charlottesville architect Eugene Bradbury to house the People’s National Bank, its tiled grand hall, towering columns, and high, echoing ceiling—not to mention its swinging vault—still project the security that would have been valued by that institution. In 2016, the building was reborn as Prime 109, a high-end steakhouse. It wasn’t until the summer of 2021 that the current operators got a hold of the space and opened The Bradbury as an event venue.
The relatively young spot is driven by the combined experience of Harvest Moon (caterers), Just a Little Ditty (event planners), Cramer Photo, and business specialists. Together they form the board of managing partners that launched The Bradbury to synthesize their skills in hospitality.
While The Bradbury expects to find the majority of its clientele via private events such as weddings and corporate bookings, its café is open to everyone from 8am-2pm, Monday-Friday, and it has hosted public festivities: fun-cville’s disco parties, UVA’s Crave fashion show, and the Tom Tom fest’s late-night dancing.
T
he return to playing his trumpet in front of a live audience was emotional for John D’earth—and for the crowd that had gathered once again for Thursday Night at Miller’s earlier this year to see him perform.
“The minute we played the first notes, they were yelling and cheering,” D’earth says. “And we were elated to be playing again.”
D’earth started performing at Miller’s in the early ’80s, after he, Dawn Thompson, and Robert Jospé, the core members of the band Cosmology, moved to Charlottesville from New York City. Recognizing their immense talent, Miller’s owner Steve Tharpe invited them to take the stage at his Downtown Mall bar, sweetening the deal by also getting the best players from Richmond, Washington, D.C., and beyond to join them. Current owner Scottie Kaylor picked up the baton and ran with it, keeping Thursday Night at Miller’s alive for hundreds of audiences.
These days, the band includes D’earth on trumpet, Peter Spaar on bass, Devonne Harris on drums, JC Kuhl or Charles Owens on sax, and Garen Dorsey and Mark Payne on piano, but D’earth says for the more than 30 years they’ve been playing at Miller’s, there’s been a rotating cast of musicians. They’re what he calls “WWCGH” (when we can get him/her), lending even more magic to the one-of-a-kind performances that, over the last three decades, have gained national (“though secretly,” D’earth says) renown in jazz circles.
D’earth says he doesn’t think these gem performances could have happened anywhere but Charlottesville and, more specifically, anywhere but “the sustainable cultural vortex” that is Miller’s.
“As musicians being invited into this milieu, we recognize that we are just damn lucky,” he says. As are we.