Category: Food & Drink

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Culture Food & Drink Living

Take us out

Tavola’s cotoletta di maiale alla Milanese (breaded pork cutlets) is served over a bed of sautéed baby arugula and roasted Roma tomatoes, capers, and a creamy lemon sauce.

In an ongoing effort to support local dining establishments during the pandemic, our writers have been enjoying a variety of takeout meals
from some of their favorite restaurants. Contribute to this ongoing series by sending your own delicious experiences to living@c-ville.com.

Tavola

There are restaurants I desperately want to survive, and Tavola* is one of them. Before COVID, each time we landed a coveted table at Tavola, we sat down knowing the food would excel, the service would be top-notch, and the perfectly curated Italian wines would send me back to favorite meals in Tuscany. And if we got “stuck” waiting in the bar, the mixologists’ cocktails were out of this world. It’s a place where my loved ones and I have marked joyful special occasions and toasted friends prematurely lost. This place is very dear to me.

All that said, Tavola offers easy online ordering and curbside pick up. These days, I often start with a gimlet. Tavola bartenders make theirs with pineapple-infused Tito’s vodka, lime, cardamom, and pink peppercorn. It goes down a little too fast.

Normally I’m a creature of habit, but at Tavola I struggle over what to order. I love the carciofi, traditional fried roman artichokes, served atop whipped goat cheese and garlic aioli. I adore the spiedini di gamberi, a pancetta-wrapped shrimp on a bed of baby arugula and oven-roasted tomatoes with fresh mozzarella and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. I find myself returning to the burrata—gooey-soft and luscious mozzarella served with housemade crostini, arugula pesto, and sundried tomatoes. I often order the insalata verde, a simple local bibb lettuce salad with Meyer lemon vinaigrette, crunchy garlic croutons, and grated Grana Padano.

I’m also a sucker for the bucatini con polpette, the housemade meatballs with bucatini pasta, and the capellini gamberi raucci—sautéed shrimp, tomatoes, capers, soave, lemon, garlic, and Gorgonzola fonduta. (Ditto the pappardelle Bolognese, with housemade pasta.) But my heart belongs to the cotoletta di maiale alla Milanese—breaded pork cutlets (from my wonderful friends at Double H Farm) served over a bed of sautéed baby arugula and roasted Roma tomatoes, capers, and a creamy, buttery Meyer lemon sauce.

In my most recent Tavola takeout meal, I skipped the tiramisu. But I immediately regretted that decision, as Tavola’s compares to the best I’ve had in my many trips to Italy, finding the perfect balance of zabaglione and espresso-soaked ladyfingers. I guess that means I’ll just have to return soon.—Jenny Gardiner

Ivy Provisions

Ivy Provisions reopened in October after being closing at the beginning of the pandemic, and on a recent Saturday I ordered online to avoid weekend lines. There were no customers ahead of me when I picked up my Winner, Winner sandwich—roasted chicken, smoked bacon, lettuce, tomato, and green goddess dressing served on a baguette with a pickle spear on the side. The only complaint I had was my pickle was pitifully skinny and limp, but the sandwich made up for it with its substantial size. My favorite part was the contrast of the crispy bacon and baguette to the tender, roasted chicken. I wanted the sandwich to have a bit more kick or maybe more sauce, but that’s being picky. The green goddess dressing was sufficient. The rest of the menu is enticing too—the small sandwich joint offers immense flavors with its creations—and you can now get a free cup of locally roasted coffee with the purchase of a sandwich before 10am, Monday-Friday.—Madison McNamee

Al Carbon

When I crave something different, I turn to Al Carbon. The restaurant’s specialty, as its name implies (Spanish for cooking over charcoal), is chicken prepared in a Peruvian-style charcoal oven. The locally sourced chicken is marinated in a blend of spices for 24 hours before being slow-cooked rotisserie style. It’s served whole, by the half, or by the quarter.

While you can order online or over the phone, I opted for DoorDash. I ordered the Para Papa, which includes half of a chicken, two sides, and one salsa. The chicken was tender and flavorful. The spot offers many side choices, from French fries and mac and cheese to roasted cactus and tamales, and I selected the poblano rice and street corn. The healthy serving of rice paired well with the chicken, and the street corn, slathered with mayonnaise, cotija cheese, chili powder, and lime zest, was a perfect combination of sweet and savory. For the salsa, I chose the jalapeño cilantro, which is mildly spicy.

I finished the meal with churros, rolled in cinnamon sugar. They had just the right amount of crunch on the outside and sweet Bavarian cream on the inside.

Al Carbon also serves an array of South American and Mexican cuisine—huarache, tamales, tacos, flautas, burritos. No matter what you order, the portions are substantial—I had food left over for lunch the next day.—Laura Drummond

*Tavola is co-owned by culture editor Tami Keaveny.

Categories
Culture Food & Drink Living

Keep funding so they can keep feeding

Meals on Wheels provides meals for seniors in need.

Go with Grace

Cavalier Produce has put a creative twist on feeding those in need. The food distributor announced Grace’s Good Food Box Program as a way to get fresh food into homes that need it through a partnership with Loaves & Fishes, PB&J Fund, Louisa County Resource Council, and Blue Ridge Area Food Bank’s Lynchburg branch. The boxes are filled with fruits, veggies, and other groceries for holiday meals, and delivered at cost. The program is named for the owners’ daughter, who “reminds us every day to pay attention to these little things and to take nothing for granted.” To donate, go to cavalierproduce.com.

Wheels of good fortune

In lieu of its annual Taste This! fundraiser, Meals on Wheels of Charlottesville/Albemarle is hosting a bingo event focused on supporting local restaurants. Unlike regular bingo, this version uses cards with area restaurant logos occupying each square. Players visit a variety of establishments, get their card stamped, and then enter the cards into a raffle—one entry per stamped logo—for multiple prizes. The event runs from December 15-March 1. Participating restaurants include The Alley Light, Orzo, Grit, Tavola, and MarieBette.

The fundraiser will help MOW keep its clients fed through this difficult time. Executive Director Leigh Trippe says Meals on Wheels has been very fortunate so far: “I should not ever be surprised by this community, but I’m amazed at all the help that we’ve gotten,” she says. “It has made us extremely grateful that we live where we live.”—Will Ham

A nod to excellence

When The Ridley opens in The Draftsman hotel in January, it won’t just add to Charlottesville’s upscale dining scene, it will bring an important legacy into focus.

The  seafood-meets-sophisticated -Southern-cooking restaurant is named for Dr. Walter N. Ridley, who was the first African American to receive a doctoral degree from a Southern, traditionally white university. Ridley had to persevere through years and layers of resistance to earn his doctorate in education from the University of Virginia in 1953, and his achievements paved the way for the thousands of Black students who came after him.

The team behind The Ridley, UVA/Darden alum Warren Thompson (Thompson Hospitality) and his friend and business partner, Ron Jordan
(Jordan Hospitality Group), honor Ridley not only in name, but by supporting his foundation through their venture. Thompson’s parents both studied under Ridley, and he considers the project to be deeply personal. “The Ridley is a way for me to publicly recognize his contributions and his commitment to action and equality in a town critically important to both his story and my own,” says Thompson.

The Ridley crew say they’ll provide an elegant yet casual atmosphere that feels like a big city dining experience, plus a tantalizing menu of Southern, coastal offerings. Expect to fill up on soft shell crab, fried lobster tails, branzino, red snapper, and Cajun oysters at 1106 West Main.

Categories
Culture Food & Drink Living

Take us out

C&O’s Retreat Farm lamb, Mochiko’s Spam musubi, and Passiflora’s tacos are all delicious reasons to order out. Staff photo

In an effort to support local dining establishments during the pandemic, our writers have been enjoying a variety of takeout meals from
some of their favorite restaurants. Contribute to this ongoing series
by sending your own delicious experiences to living@c-ville.com.

C&O

From rounds of Greyhounds to late-night grilled cheeses at the bar, C&O has been a staple in my Charlottesville dining repertoire for years. So when I walked up to the restaurant’s Dutch door labeled “takeout” to pick up my order, I felt an overwhelming sense of comfort. Through the open window, I could see the downstairs bar where, despite my longing, I wouldn’t be taking a seat—instead I’d be taking my cocktail home with me.

To accompany my Retreat Farm lamb entrée and side of Brussels sprouts, I opted for the Half Smoke—reposado tequila, mezcal, agave, and bitters. When unpacking my meal at home, I was pleasantly surprised to find a handwritten note, instructing me to “sip, enjoy, repeat,” after pouring the Half Smoke over ice and squeezing the twist, which was included in its own small container. The chef had also thrown in an additional serving of Brussels because they had extra, and they truly abide by the adage that the dish is best served hot. The Brussels were delicately prepared, while the lamb entrée came with three different cuts of meat, accented by a rosemary jus. But it was the personal touches that made this a special takeout experience, like visiting an old friend.—Desiré Moses

Mochiko Cville

I’d heard great things from many friends about Mochiko, the Hawaiian BBQ and deli located in The Yard at 5th Street Station, and was eager to try it. The ordering process was easy to navigate online directly from the Mochiko website. Pickup was quick and simple, at the exact time specified when ordering, with ample parking outside the restaurant.

I opted for the Mochiko Chicken over white rice with a side of ahi (tuna) poke. The signature chicken dish reminded me of what you might get at an Asian-style restaurant at a mall food court, but well-balanced flavors (chicken marinated in garlic, ginger, and soy then lightly breaded in rice flour and fried) and the fact that it was freshly prepared elevated the overall meal.

The highlight was the ahi poke. Small pieces of raw tuna marinated in sesame oil, soy sauce, and green onions evoked memories of a vacation in Hawaii. In the end, I was sorry that I had only ordered a small side portion. Next time I will order poke as my main dish and perhaps add another Hawaiian classic, the Spam musubi. While I won’t be sitting on a beach in Hawaii anytime soon, the classic flavors of Mochiko allow me to close my eyes and imagine that I am there.—Paul Ting

Passiflora

Passiflora, downtown’s newest dining spot, is set to be a C’ville favorite, thanks to its fresh flavors and hospitable service. I was delighted by its takeout options, and, aside from a lack of utensils in the to-go bag, I had a speedy and pleasant experience. The restaurant’s Baja-Mediterranean style is something we haven’t seen much of in Charlottesville, so deciding on just a few dishes from Passiflora’s menu is almost an exercise in futility. Nevertheless, I managed to assemble a delicious spread of fajitas, tacos, grilled pineapple, and fruity cider.

Everything delivered a refreshing brightness, along with an authentic mix of Latin spices. The piquant chimichurri particularly stood out, deftly bridging the gap between the sweet char of the grilled pineapple and the spice of the pickled cherry tomatoes.

Of course, the best way to enjoy great food is with great company, and my friend loved the chicken fajita, though it was slightly messy as a finger food. The pico de gallo, sour cream, and queso perfectly exemplified the Tex-Mex half of Passiflora’s diverse menu.

The portions were generous as well; one appetizer and the single Baja fish taco were a perfect light dinner for less than $20. And the beer-battered cod, topped with red cabbage, creamy queso asadero, rich aioli, and wrapped in a flour tortilla, was just dense enough to be satisfying without the heavy decadence that usually accompanies fried foods. Paired with El Chavo, a flavorsome mango-habanero cider, our dinner from Passiflora provided an impressive array of flavors that will definitely prompt a return.—Will Ham

Categories
Culture Food & Drink Living

Spirit guidance: The catch is in the rye for Square One vodka’s Allison Evanow

Allison Evanow used her marketing savvy to launch Square One Organic Spirits and put some heat on a lackluster vodka industry with her eco-conscious, 100 percent American rye vodkas. Image: Eze Amos

It was the middle of the night in 2004 when Square One organic vodka founder Allison Evanow saw her future. Evanow’s career, marketing fine beverages had taken the Waynesboro native to Spain, Mexico, and California, working for the Jose Cuervo family before entering the wine industry in Napa.

Maybe it was insomnia, maybe it was the over-exhaustion that stems from new parenthood—or maybe it was a spirit guide. But Evanow, then the mother of 6-month-old twins, describes waking with a bolt of inspiration that caused her to start planning a new business, her mind flashing back to an advertising campaign she’d come across in Food & Wine magazine earlier that day.

“There was an ad for an American vodka with an old farmer that touted ‘all natural’ and I remember thinking, if it’s all natural why wouldn’t they just go all the way to organic,” says Evanow. “You can cheat all natural.”

She was living in northern California at the time, immersed in the movement toward organic, green, and eco-friendly consumption. Evanow describes the realization that no one was distilling organic spirits as “going off like a bell.” That bell sounded an idea that would alter the spirits business and define her as an innovator in a niche industry.

“I wrote down the name Square One,” says Evanow. “The idea that if you start at square one you’re doing it the right way. No herbicides, no pesticides, no fake stuff. You’re telling the truth in your marketing—and no sexy bikini marketing!”

Initially, she thought she’d run the table and produce organic vodka, rum, and gin. After writing the business plan, she says reality set in, and the challenges of building her own distillery caused her to focus solely on vodka.

“People ask if I started a vodka company because I like vodka and I say, ‘No I started it because I hated vodka,’” laughs Evanow. Vodka’s bad image on the cocktail scene at the time stemmed from using less expensive, synthetic ingredients, and Evanow says she decided to “focus on the category that needs the most help because they’ve done the most fake stuff.”

Sixteen years after that fitful night, the Square One brand operates from Evanow’s home office in Ivy and features five labels of vodka: clear, cucumber, bergamot, botanical, and basil, plus a line of mixers and ready-to-drink canned cocktails—all of them organic. Evanow’s farming, fermentation, and distillation processes are certified organic, and use 100 percent organic American rye. This is far more difficult to pull off than the conventional distilling process, but Evanow never deviated from her goal.

“That was the idea, all organic, all real botanicals, plant-based infusions,” she says. “Deriving the extracts or essences from the real plant instead of some guy in a lab coat pretending he made strawberry out of chemicals.”

Evanow made two other key decisions. She used rye to make her vodka and she took a culinary approach to the science of distillation. Get her going on botanical formulas and she utters poetic streams of ingredients: Pear, rose, lavender, chamomile, lemon verbena, coriander, rosemary, and citrus peel…mandarin, navel, and tangerine…juniper, ginger and coriander. “Our original distiller said, ‘No one has ever talked to me about their spirits the way you do. You come at it like you’re a cook,’” says Evanow.

She chose rye because she didn’t want a sweet style like you get with corn, or an “uber neutral” vodka, typical when using wheat or potato. “What I love about rye is it’s got character,” she says, also quick to note that working with rye is not easy, due to its lower yield and a tougher process to make it certified organic. After getting her formula down, the next step was to expand the product’s flavor profile.

Square One’s real cucumber flavored vodka was another industry first and it became a bestseller. “That was a beast to make,” says Evanow. “It tasted like pickles, it was so bad.” The flavor solution came from the world of fine perfumes. “My distiller had been in the perfume biz before…and went out and worked with six different perfume and flavor companies to find stable extraction essences.” The result tastes fresh from the garden.

At first, the bartending community was lukewarm about putting a new vodka into the lineup. But the use of rye, and the authenticity of Square One’s mission, made it a valid addition to the craft cocktail movement.

Now the vodka is a fixture on cocktail lists at high-end restaurants like Morton’s The Steakhouse and boutique hot spot Goose & Gander in Napa Valley. Jason McKechnie at The Ivy Inn tries to feature a new cocktail with Square One vodka seasonally “because the flavors are unique, bold yet balanced, and it’s a product I can trust through and through,” he says.

As with the ingredients and process she uses in her Square One spirits, integrity and authenticity are important to Evanow personally. She’s one of the first women to start her own distilled spirits company, and it’s an industry in which the glass ceiling is still very high. “I’m asked, ‘Did you do this with your husband?’ and I say, ‘No, I started the company and he does not work for me,’” says Evanow.

More women in leadership roles can expand the industry creatively, says Evanow. She makes sure her brand and marketing is never “dumbed down” and that people know Square One is founded by a woman. “Because, I don’t think a bro would do this,” she says as she carefully inhales the essence of a basil vodka. “I don’t think a bro would care about the quality in this way.”

 

How-tos for tasting the hard stuff

Start from scratch
Before tasting, be sure your palate is clean and neutral. Drink water and avoid spicy foods and strong flavors.

Hold the rocks
Sip the spirit at room temperature, neat.

Don’t nose it
Wave the glass gently to get the aromatics. Hold the glass slightly away from your face, with the nose outside the glass as you inhale, in order to avoid the “burn” of the alcohol.   

Double dip
Don’t judge by the first sip. Take it slow, and take a few.

Savor the flavors
Depending on the base ingredient, you’ll discover bready/yeasty/cereal notes
(vodkas made from grain), vanilla/caramel/butterscotch notes (oak-aged spirits),
smoke/brine/peat (scotches), herbal/vegetal/earthy (tequilas), and citrus/botanicals
of all kinds (flavored spirits like vodka, gin, and aquavit).

From the Ivy Inn
Perfect pear

 1 oz. Square One Organic vodka

 1.25 oz. spiced pear liqueur (preferably St. George Distillery Spiced Pear
Liqueur or Rothman & Winter Orchard Pear, infused with 2 cinnamon sticks and
14 clove pods for 36-48 hours)

 .25 oz. elderflower liqueur

 .25 oz. maple syrup

 .5 oz. lemon juice

Shake with ice for 20 seconds and strain into a chilled coupe/martini glass. Garnish with freshly grated cinnamon or a pear wheel, or both!

Categories
Culture Food & Drink Living

All in favor, say pie

The pie chart (get it?) above shows the results of a social media poll asking about respondents’ favorite pies. A handful of commenters objected to our exclusion of sweet potato pie from the multiple-choice poll—we concede it wasn’t very sweet of us to leave it out!

Shaun Jenkins, owner of Soul Food Joint, grew up in a pie-loving household. The weekend before Thanksgiving, his mom would make about 40 pies, and folks would stop by to pick one up after church—free of charge.

Jenkins carries on that tradition by baking a bushel of his own favorite sweet potato Thanksgiving tarts every November. We asked a few other soul food chefs for their take on holiday pies, plus we polled our readers about their faves too.

Jeneatha Douglas, JBD Mobile Catering & Events: “My sweet potato—sweet potato pie, most definitely. I have to say I cheat with [a store-bought] crust, but everything else is all me.”

Dejua Douglas, Dejua’s Creations (as told by Jeneatha Douglas): “She does holiday cakes and pies, as well. I would say her favorite pie is a mean apple pie—and sometimes a cherry or peach.”

Angelic Jenkins, Angelic’s Kitchen: “My favorite is apple pie a la mode—those apple pie crumbs and vanilla ice cream, it’s a must-have. It brings happiness and laughter to the whole table.”

Ryan Hubbard, Red Hub Food Co.: “I’m going to go with our chocolate pecan bourbon pie. It’s got that essence of bourbon and uses a 60 percent dark chocolate.”

Shannon Campbell, Croby’s Urban Viddles: “Pecan. My nana made the best pecan pie.”

Categories
Culture Food & Drink Living Uncategorized

Take us out: Local restaurant favorites will make you happy at home

Monsoon Siam’s Fresh Rolls are made with spring mix, avocado, and carrots, and wrapped in rice paper and served with a tamarind peanut sauce. Image: John Robinson

Restaurant dining has changed dramatically due to coronavirus, but we still want our favorites— and a night off from the kitchen. We asked our writers and staffers to give us their best takes. Keep watching for more, and send in your own to living@c-ville.com. Oh, and save the griping for Yelp. We want to support the hard work our restaurants are doing and see them through this COVID winter. See our Take Out Guide for your next order.

Selvedge Brewing has been open since midsummer, but only started offering takeout recently. The menu is brewery food, but with Chef Tucker Yoder at the helm in the kitchen, it’s elevated above average pub fare. Online ordering was simple and pickup was quick. The food did not disappoint. Bibb lettuce salad with garlic dressing was nicely accented by slices of smoked pork jowl and house-pickled red onions that were just the right balance between sweet and sour. Croutons made from pretzel buns brought a bit of crunch. The chicken sandwich is the best I’ve had in town, a pickle-brined thigh fried with light batter that reminds me of Japanese tempura, topped with a generous amount of pickles and some white barbecue sauce. Their small-batch, craft beer is available for takeout only in 32-ounce “crowlers” (single-use cans filled on demand). I opted for the Poplin, an Italian-style pilsner that was light, full of mildly sweet biscuit flavors, with just a hint of bitterness on the finish.—Paul Ting

Dr. Ho’s Humble Pie offers alternative pizza, but it has so much more. Everything on the diverse menu is made from scratch. To partake of the deliciousness involves a short drive (pickup only; no delivery) to North Garden, and the process is easy. On what appeared to be a pretty busy night, my order only took 20 minutes to prepare, and it was ready for me when I arrived.

A Dr. Ho’s meal is not complete without the Fat and Sassy. This pull-apart garlic cheese bread is a shareable appetizer that looks like a pizza. Mozzarella and cheddar cheese are melted on hand-tossed pizza crust made from homemade dough loaded with cloves of roasted garlic. The Fat and Sassy is traditionally served with marinara sauce and homemade ranch, but the ranch is so good I skipped the marina and opted for two ranch dressings. (The ranch dressing is so popular, Dr. Ho’s sells it by the pint and quart.)

On this night, I wasn’t feeling pizza, so I decided to go for another staple—the burger. The cheeseburger is made with local grass-fed beef, sharp cheddar cheese, lettuce, and tomato. The burger was cooked perfectly to the temperature I specified, and the toppings tasted fresh. It comes with a large helping of hand-cut French fries—so many that I couldn’t finish them all. It was super satisfying comfort food.—Laura Drummond

C-VILLE Weekly staff takes:

Al Carbon remains a gem. The chicken itself is delectable and tender with just the right amount of rich smokiness. The South American spices are different from almost anything else in town. And the caramelized plantains are heavenly.—Ben H.

Citizen Bowl and Monsoon Siam: Ready on time, always fresh, always correct, and COVID protocols followed.—Nanci M.

I recently ordered delivery from Lemongrass via DoorDash. I had the mango curry with tofu, and it was the perfect blend of sweet and savory. However, beware if you’re getting delivery in the evening and have a taste for sushi—for the second time in a row, I ordered sushi to go with my entrée, but the restaurant was out of it.—Brielle E.

We have loved our experiences at Oakhart Social and Now & Zen. Delicious options and safe, easy pickup at both locations! We love Oakhart’s pizzas and shaved salad. I am so happy to be able to get my Green Giant roll to go from Now & Zen. The Bodo’s drive-through experience is fantastic too. The lines move fast and the process is easy.—Anna H.

I have ordered Maru from DoorDash recently. I was happy with the items I picked and they traveled well. The food and service was excellent, and I will definitely be ordering from them again.—Gaby K.

During the heart of COVID stay-at-home restrictions, the fact that Chimm would deliver to Lake Monticello every Saturday was a godsend. A bowl of hot pho on a cold April day made me feel a little normal again.—Tracy F.

Up 29 North is the Timberwood Grill, which has kept us supplied with Honey Fire Tenderloin Tips; Stoplight Enchiladas; Wild Mushroom Ravioli; and BEER (build-your-own sampler = four different brews for $7.95) since the pandemic started.—Susan S.

TEN sushi to go was the perfect choice to celebrate a birthday with a small group during these careful times. The chef’s omakase nigiri was a glistening, jewel-like array of fresh, perfect slices over rice, the rainbow roll of sashimi wrapped around the kani avocado roll was a decadent, fun conversation starter, and the spicy toro roll stood out with chu toro, avocado, pickled jalapeño, crunch, spicy sauce, and tobiko sending an exhilarating rush of heat and umami across the palate. The easy curbside pickup and careful packaging made for an impressive home dining experience.—Tami K.