Cumbre’s flavor-filled empanadas are stuffed with your choice of beef, ham and cheese,
or organic chicken. Photo by Tristan Williams.
Cool beans
It’s all about the flavor at Cumbre Bakery, a culture-fusing concept on East Jefferson Street. Owners Tito and Juanchi blend flavors from Italy and Argentina in their mouth-watering alfajores, medialunas, and empanadas, served alongside aromatic coffees.
It’s easier than ever to get your caffeine fix on the go with the opening of Future Coffee Co., a drive-through in the old Brews on High space. The extraterrestrial-themed menu includes breakfast sammies, sweets, and syrup flavors like lavender, blackberry, coconut, and cinnamon.
On the Corner, SK Coffee & Co serves up elevated coffee shop classics in a sleek space. The panini’s are perfectly melty and the frappes are a decadent treat.
Fresh eats
The mooves continue at Dairy Market with the opening of Al Basha, an Iraqi eatery offering made-from-scratch kabobs, platters, sandwiches, and sides.
For sizzling meats and hearty stews, head to Bulpan Korean BBQ at Stonefield. Take your pick of beef, pork, or chicken, or try the vegetarian DanHoBak JJIM, a sweet and spicy tofu and vegetable stew with kabocha squash.
Mod Pod, part of The Little Mod hotel on the Corner, offers inventive breakfast and lunch eats from a sleek Airstream. Test your taste buds with the savory waffle cones—the Piggly Wiggly wraps up pork belly, avocado, roasted vegetables, and a maple citrus glaze.
And at Potter’s Craft Cider, a new sandwich menu from chefs Ian and Allie Redshaw makes for a yummy outing.
New sips
The taps and tunes are flowing at the much-anticipated Superfly Brewing Co. The small, independent brewery serves up a rotating selection of drafts and is already hosting bands, a run club, and art galleries.
Ed Liversidge’s Superfly Brewing Co. on Preston Avenue has a rotating selection of draft beer. Photo by Tristan Williams.
Pop a cork at Southwest Mountains Vineyards, the newest winery in Keswick. Head winemaker Boela Gerber came to Virginia from South Africa, and currently offers an impressive menu of reds, whites, and rosés. Try a fancier tasting in the second-floor space, with tableside service, or grab a spot downstairs for a more casual experience.
They’re done
Say it ain’t so—after three years of baking flaky croissants and delicate macarons, Bowerbird Bakeshop is turning off the ovens. The bakery’s last day is December 16, and they’re selling out quickly, so get your last fix.
Fry’s Spring Station will sling its last pizza on November 26. The neighborhood staple regularly hosted trivia nights, and was a popular spot on UVA game days.
Moves
Miami eatery Guajiros is moving—thankfully only a few short blocks away. The West Main location will stay open through the end of the year, before moving to the old Peloton Station space on 10th Street.
Selvedge Brewing is leaving The Wool Factory on December 2, and will begin operations at 2415 Ivy Rd. on January 12.
Kindness Cafe + Play is getting a second location at the Common Grounds Building near UVA. The mission-driven coffee shop is known for its excellent service and sips.
Kudos
The local wine industry has exploded in recent years, making an undeniable mark on the global viticulture scene. Recently, Wine Enthusiast named Charlottesville and the Monticello AVA, Wine Region of the Year, recognizing the area’s high-quality wines and innovation—and it’s not just the wines that’re sweeping awards. Ragged Branch Distillery’s Honey Barrel Finished Bourbon won the Virginia Bourbon Invitational’s blind tasting.
Noe Garcia Corona will pour wine from Grace Estate Winery at the Two Up Wine Down Festival on Sunday at the Jefferson School African American Heritage Center. Photo by Derrick Waller.
The Two Up Wine Down Festival will showcase Virginia wines of all kinds, but it will also shine a spotlight on broader talent from our winemaking region when 11 curators pour 15 wines at the Jefferson School on October 29 from 3 to 6pm.
Tracey Love, one of the event’s organizers and the marketing and sales head at Blenheim Vineyards, calls the afternoon “an opportunity to highlight the work of underrepresented communities of all sorts.”
Grace Estate Winery’s Assistant Winegrower Noe Garcia Corona says, “it has been hard to find people who want to bring the entire wine community together. In the past, sometimes vineyards have been stuck in a bubble.”
When asked what it means to be part of a more inclusive community, Garcia Corona says it makes him “feel comfortable, it’s an opportunity to meet passionate people who are contributing to the wider community of wines in Virginia, and it makes us better able to advise each other.” Today’s wider professional wine community better serves all types of people who are interested in wine, he says. “That is how you get more sales.”
Garcia Corona adds that the event is not only a chance to highlight Grace Estate’s wines, but also to impart his vineyard’s formal wine philosophy: “Everything we need to make great wine is already in the soil and the fruit itself, and so we strive to produce a product free of outside inputs.”
Garcia Corona and winegrowing partner Robbie Corpora use minimal, mostly organic insecticides, employ a chemical-free period before harvest, and depend on indigenous yeasts and bacteria on the grape skins for the final taste. They use no refrigeration and minimal sulfites. The result is popular—about 80 percent of the grapes grown at Grace Estate are purchased by other winemakers.
Love and Reggie Leonard, winemaker and co-creator of the fest, tout the many Charlottesville- and Shenandoah Valley-area wineries that women and BIPOC producers have founded or work for. Some are even a one-person show, like Seidah Armstrong, who owns Sweet Vines Farm Winery, and makes and sells her wines. “She does it all,” Love says. (And if you’re looking for some out-of-town star power, NBA Hall of Famer Dwayne Wade, a co-partner of Wade Cellars, is also on the program.)
The Wine Down is an offshoot of local efforts that continue year-round, Love says. “The name is an homage to our incredible Commonwealth, Virginia (Two Up, Two Down). The V is two fingers up (like a peace sign) and the A is two fingers down for VA and we riffed on that idea for the festival name and TUWD design by Tim Skirven.”
The Oenoverse, a wine club based at Blenheim Vineyards that includes people from historically underrepresented and excluded communities, and a related nonprofit group called the Veraison Project (volunteer wine industry professionals committed to making the industry more diverse and equitable) chose the curators for Two Up Wine Down.
Celebrate good food and seasonal recipes with Mary Beth Lind, co-author of Simply in Season. Now in its 10th anniversary edition, the cookbook invites novice and master chefs alike to embrace the art of sustainable and mindful cooking, and offers up stories, tips, serving suggestions, and substitutions alongside over 300 recipes organized by season. Foodies will have the opportunity to ask Lind about her recipes and cooking, and gather inspiration to explore their own creativity in the kitchen.
Saturday 10/14. Free, 1pm. Ten Thousand Villages, 105 W. Main St., Downtown Mall. tenthousandvillages.com
By Mary Esselman, Maeve Hayden, Tami Keaveny, and Susan Sorensen
Walking in to a busy diner is an exciting sensory experience. The clang of silverware and dishes banging around, orders called from front-of-house to back, and air laden with the savory perfume of the kitchen. Trays go by filled with warm toasty waffles, deliciously greasy bacon and eggs, chicken-fried steak, Reuben sandwiches, turkey melts, and thick slices of lemon meringue pie. The anticipation builds until you’re seated, a server splashes coffee into a thick china cup, and asks, “What can I get ya?” Charlottesville has plenty of formal restaurants, but lucky for us, the city also abounds with (too many to count!) diners that deliver a nostalgic dream of American mealtime, where the food feeds the soul and the folks feel familiar. Here’s a roundup of some of our favorites. Post your go-to on our Facebook page and tell us why you love it.
Like its longtime proprietor Mel Walker, this legendary Charlottesville landmark exudes an aura of relaxed excellence.
Stop by near lunchtime, and you’ll find a line out the door, giving you a chance to peruse the menu taped to the window. Will you opt for breakfast, served all day? Perhaps the George Omelette: ham, cheese, onions, green peppers, and diced tomatoes, topped with chili beans? Or is lunch calling you to the fried fish sub or that BBQ rib sandwich?
Your stomach and heart rumble in anticipation of stick-to-the-ribs ecstasy, and already you know what you’ve heard is true: Mel’s, with its humble, homespun name, offers food for the soul.
Community photos cover the walls inside, along with tributes to beloved friends (and to the team formerly known as the Washington Redskins). A sign above the cash register reads: “Family, where life begins, and love never ends.”
Life and love never tasted as good as the fried chicken you order once you reach the counter and ask for Mel’s most popular dish. Hot, moist, and crunchy, it’s made to order and worth the 15-minute wait. Creamy mac and cheese, followed by Mel’s famous sweet potato pie complete the out- of-body experience.—ME
Something wonderful is going on at The Villa Diner. And it’s not just the joy we felt when The Wahoo (buttermilk pancakes, eggs, and sausage) and Super Big Complete Breakfast (bacon, hash browns, biscuits, and cheese on the scrambled eggs, please) arrived at our table.
We’re talking about an epidemic of paying it forward at the popular Emmet Street eatery. Just ask Mike, a local unhoused man. Or the Albemarle High School track team. Or the random person who’s caught the attention of a couple of UVA football players who regularly buy a stranger breakfast.
“It happens all the time,” says Jennifer Beachley, who’s co-owned the Villa with her husband Ken since 2005. One long-time customer buys everything from a veggie omelet to a Philly cheesesteak or grilled turkey melt (three of the diner’s most popular items) for people she’s never met, several times a month. “She says it’s the best part of her week,” according to Beachley, who gave the woman a map of the restaurant so she could give the cashier specific table numbers when paying her bill.
As if a Reuben and fries for under 10 bucks isn’t enough, imagine your delight when, after polishing off a plate of steak and eggs, you get to the register and learn that the guy who might score the winning touchdown at Scott Stadium this weekend has picked up the tab for your meal.—SS
Blue Moon Diner has evolved many times since its inception in 1979: owners Laura Galgano and Rice Hall took the reins, a lengthy closure, thanks to years of construction, COVID-19, and now a new service model. But some things never change.
Last month, the midtown diner switched to a coffee shop-style service. No more reservations, just walk in and choose your stickered booth (during the weekend brunch madness you’ll still have to put your name on a waitlist), then order through QR codes or up at the counter using a self-serve kiosk—and don’t forget to drop your dirty plates in a bus bin when you’re done.
Though ordering looks a little different, it’s still the same heavenly Blue Moon food coming out of the kitchen—like the ever-popular Hogwaller Hash with a side of home fries, or crispy beignets topped with powdered sugar—and the restaurant is full of familiar faces running food and making drinks, including Galgano.
Blue Moon’s coffee selection continues to reign supreme, with bottomless Trager Brothers Blue Moon Blend for $3, and canned Snowing in Space nitro cold brew for $5.
And, of course, Wednesday evenings are still for Jim Waive. The local musician brings the classic country tunes, Blue Moon shakes the cocktails and not-tails, and diners enjoy eggs all night long.—MH
Hiding in plain sight just before the Locust Avenue exit off 250 West sits the best little diner you’ve never noticed: Doodle’s. Walk through the door, and you’re in an American time capsule of clean, comfy, country ease: brightly lit booths and tables, homey decorations, and a sweetheart of a server named Kim.
Since she was 14, Melanie “Doodle” Lohr wanted to run a restaurant, she says, and for the past 10 years, she, her mom, and her Aunt Barbara have brought that dream to life. Morning regulars devour the breakfast combos and omelets, while evening folks come for the specials: salmon cakes, catfish dinner, hamburger steak, and Wednesday-night spaghetti. Popular desserts include three-tier cakes like the Sunshine (orange with mandarin oranges, whipped cream, and diced pineapple), chocolate chess pie, and bread pudding.
Almost as big a draw as the food is Kim, beloved for making everyone feel at home. When a grandpa comes in with his young grandson, Kim asks how their sleepover went the night before, and takes their drink orders. The boy asks for a soda, and Kim says, “Well, is that okay with Grandpa?” Grandpa smiles, “I don’t care, he won’t be with me today,” and Kim jokes back, “Oh, so a Mountain Dew then, huh?”—ME
If you’re looking for the classic country diner experience—with a twist—gather your herd and head to Moose’s by the Creek.
Tucked inside an unassuming building off Monticello Road, the family-owned eatery serves breakfast all day, juicy burgers, and specialty sweets for a reasonable price. Loyal patrons stop by every week to tuck into their tried-and-true favorites, like the Maine Moose (eggs, home fries, and your choice of meat and carb for $8) or the CVille Way (French toast topped with whipped butter, eggs, home fries, and a protein for $12). The pancakes are delightfully fluffy, the Mimoosas are bottomless for only $20, and it’s one of the few restaurants in town that serves scrapple as a side.
You can’t talk about Moose’s without mentioning the elephant in the room, which in this case is a moose—and a bear, and a turkey, and a deer. Yep, you read that right. Moose’s multiple dining rooms are tastefully decorated with busts of taxidermied animals. If that’s not your thing, they do offer takeout.
In addition to housing racks of antlers (with one that patrons stand under for the ubiquitous Moose crown), the restaurant also has a hockey sports bar in one of its back rooms, complete with foosball, pool, signed memorabilia, and, come hockey season, a room full of Caps fans rooting for Ovi to score another goal.—MH
Somehow Tip Top manages to be both a Southern and a Northeastern diner.
Head in for breakfast, and you’ll find corn cakes (“a true Southern delight,” declares the menu) and a country ham special that includes two eggs, home fries, and grits. A cheerful waitress greets you with “Good morning, honey!” and a hot mug of coffee (better than Starbucks but not as good as JBird Supply). You might try the popular buckwheat pancakes (“Tastes like you’re in Texas”), or the two biscuits with sausage gravy and two eggs, about as Southern as you can get.
Show up for lunch or dinner, however, and you’ll feel the “Seinfeld” vibe of Jerry, George, and Elaine’s NYC diner, Monk’s Café. Owner Terry Vassolous, originally from Greece, has crafted a menu full of Greek and Italian specialties, from grape leaves, souvlaki, and moussaka to lasagna, manicotti, and fettuccini alfredo. The meatballs are sublime, and the pizzas stand out for their Greek-influenced toppings, like the peasant’s feta cheese, fresh tomatoes, black olives, scallions, bell peppers, and pepperoni. There’s even a “big salad” (one Greek, one chef).
Any time of day, Tip Top feels sparkling and friendly, a haven for weary families, workers, students, and Route 250 travelers.—ME
Around the corner from UVA Medical Center, the Korner Restaurant has been feeding Cherry Avenue and Lee Street folks for over 50 years. “A good place to eat, where two streets meet,” proclaims the menu, and that’s what you find at the Korner, from 5:30am to 4pm, hefty, low-cost portions of hearty homemade food, with a side dish of neighborly love.
Philip Templeton runs the place that’s been in his family since 1950, arriving at 3:30am to prepare from-scratch dishes like macaroni salad, cole slaw, potato salad, and BBQ. Once the breakfast rush starts, he’s at the counter with his regulars, who show up every day.
Two Tammys and a core Korner crew keep the place humming. Tammy One greets you like your favorite aunt, bringing you heaping portions of home fries and grits, and keeping the strong coffee coming. A Korner mainstay for decades, she lights up describing customer favorites: the juicy burgers (fresh ground beef, never frozen), stuffed subs, tangy wing dings, and homemade chicken salad. Tammy Two handles the griddle, the register, and any diner thing that needs doing.
Wahoowa-proud, the Korner loves the community it serves.—ME
Waiting in line for a table at The Nook during the weekend brunch rush is one of those quintessential Charlottesville experiences. One of C’ville’s OG diners, The Nook opened in 1951, and offers an elevated diner experience with local and seasonal offerings and specialty cocktails.
A Nook brunch is best experienced at one of the coveted outdoor patio seats—just be prepared to wait in line (pro tip: Send one person to the restaurant 20 minutes before you’d like to eat to put your party’s name on the list). Though the wait can sometimes be up to 30 minutes, it’s not unpleasant. The hosts juggle and flip tables with ease, waiters bustle back and forth carrying steaming plates that make your stomach growl, and if you’re lucky, a busker’s accordion rendition of “Toxic” by Britney Spears will drift down the mall.
As you peruse the menu and begin sipping on your mug of coffee, keep these three things in mind: the breakfast potatoes, which are perfectly seasoned and served with peppers and onions, are some of the yummiest in the city, brunch pairs best with a boozy cocktail, like the Spiced Apple Mimosa, and you have to try the eggs benny at least once.—MH
Holly’s is a nighttime diner, offering comfort food and friendly fun from 5pm to 2am, Tuesday through Saturday. The place is funky and cute, with an industrial-meets-farm chic, and a honky-tonk happy soul.
An older crowd comes early to claim swivel-stool seats at the long concrete bar, or to grab a spot at the hidden outdoor patio. There they throw back signature cocktails like the Belmont Sweet Tea (Southern tea with a kick), while enjoying Holly’s most popular dinner dishes—homemade meatloaf, chicken poblano pot pie, Brussels sprout hash, and fried green tomatoes.
After 9pm, a younger crowd fills the tables and booths near the small stage that sparkles with live music on Fridays and Saturdays, Thunder Music Karaoke on Tuesdays, Open Mic Night on Wednesdays, Game Night on Thursdays, and, on occasion, Goth Takeovers with DJs. Folks who work and party into the wee hours love Holly’s late-night handheld options, like the catfish po’boy, Reuben sandwich, and the Hangover Burger (gently dressed with bacon, fried egg, pepper, pepper jack cheese, special hot sauce, and lettuce).
Even the olds often hang around for dinner and “a show,” just to chat with beloved manager, Morgan, and to soak in the diner’s welcoming vibe.—ME
Bring your appetite and sweet tooth to the Ikore Festival, a farm-to-table celebration of Black food, cooks, and farmers. Using fresh produce and ingredients grown by Black farmers, participants will whip up delectable dishes for sampling and judging. Grab a plate, chat with a farmer about seasonal gardening, then cast your vote for best in show for savory, desserts, and grill. The harvest festival (Ikore means harvest in Yoruban) draws influence from similar celebrations held throughout the African continent to celebrate gathered crops.
Saturday 9/9. $10, 11am. Jefferson School African American Heritage Center, 233 Fourth St. NW. jeffschoolheritagecenter.org
“It’s been a thrill to have someone who’s interested in the business and interested in food and cooking,” says The Ivy Inn’s Angelo Vangelopoulos about his line cook Noel Hayden’s departure for The Dabney in Washington, D.C. Supplied photo.
Wisdom from the grill
If you’ve visited The Ivy Inn in the last two years, chances are lead line cook Noel Hayden had a hand in preparing and plating your dinner. Hayden began his culinary career at age 14 at Greenwood Gourmet Grocery, and joined The Ivy Inn’s close-knit staff in 2021, training under chef/owner Angelo Vangelopoulos. Hayden is about to take his culinary journey to the next level at Michelin-starred restaurant The Dabney in Washington, D.C.
Hayden is quick to give credit to Vangelopoulos, whose lessons are grounded in a history that includes culinary school, time spent working with a French master chef, and more. Those lessons have contributed to the training of many young chefs—including The Dabney founder Jeremiah Langhorne.
“With Noel, he was so moldable … and he learned really fast, and I’ve probably said it a thousand times now but he’s really good with his hands, and the other things he likes to do [rock climbing] make him have some skill and dexterity which you don’t always get,” says Vangelopoulos.
Passing on wisdom to the next generation and getting young people excited about cooking is how local restaurants that take food seriously—like C&O, Fleurie, and The Ivy Inn—have been able to stand the test of time, says Vangelopoulos. “It’s the perfect time for him to go somewhere new and exciting, and if he wants to continue his culinary journey, there’s maybe no better place for him right now because it will teach him, and wake him up to what’s out there.”
More reasons to eat out
The Monsoon Siam family continues to grow, with the addition of Maple Pine Thai Kitchen on Pantops. The lunch and dinner joint joins Coconut Thai, Pineapples Thai, and the downtown flagship location, making it easier than ever to get your fix of simmering curry and spicy noodles.
With the opening of Al Basha, Iraqi food is officially on the menu at Dairy Market. Owner Omar Al Shaban is serving up family-style, made-from-scratch sandwiches and platters with fillings like chicken shawarma, falafel, and hummous.
Sip on this
After closing its doors in 2008, Oakencroft Farm & Winery is back in business. The farm is committed to environmental conservation, regenerative farming, and solar power. The tasting room is open by reservation, and serves a rotating selection of wines from Virginia and around the world.
Something’s brewing on High Street, and it’s a new venture from restaurateur Will Richey and Reason Beer co-founder Mark Fulton. Högwaller Brewing will fill the vacant space at 1518 E. High St. left by The Pie Chest and Lone Light Coffee, and will eventually produce its own beers, paired with a menu of burgers, barbecue, and more.
Spirit Lab Distilling’s new brew is sure to put a pep in your step. The coffee whiskey is a collaboration with Snowing in Space, and was left in the barrel for an extra year. The amber elixir is stronger than espresso, and pairs perfectly with a scoop of vanilla in an affogato.
A final toast
Recently, we’ve toasted toodle-oo to some favorite eateries. Due to Champion Hospitality Group getting in the financial weeds (see page 22), Passiflora, Champion Brewing Company, Brasserie Saison, and Siren have shuttered their doors. Baccio Mediterranean Cuisine in Crozet fried its last falafel, and after 11 years Meriwether Springs Winery & Brewery has bottled its final bevvies.
Tossing back suds and spirits with the folks who know a thing or two about alcohol. Photo by Tom McGovern.
For this year’s Drink Issue, we asked local bartenders what wets their whistles at the end of a shift, queried winemakers on their favorite brews, and raised a toast to the time-honored drinks we’ve featured over the years.
Negroni from The Alley Light
This tried-and-true
bittersweet aperitif is
right at home in the
dusky vibes of downtown’s secret spot. Photo by Tom McGovern.
.38 Special from The Local
The spicy-sweet old-fashioned gets amped up with Bulleit Bourbon, local honey, Canton Ginger Liqueur, bitters, and muddled cherry and orange. Photo by Emily Sacco.
B. Moss from Bang!
Made with just three ingredients, this refreshing and crisp cocktail is served in a frosted martini glass. Photo by Emily Sacco.
Murano from Maya
Take it onto the patio: Some natural light helps illuminate the stained glass effect of this sweet update on the cosmo. Photo by Emily Sacco.
Where the pros go
Drinking with friends after a long shift
Miller’s serves food and liquor into the wee hours, which makes it a favorite after-work spot for area bartenders. Photo by Tristan Williams.
Bartending shifts are long, physically demanding, and often psychologically draining. So it makes sense that there is a deep camaraderie that develops between co-workers and across the industry. Going out for a drink is both an opportunity to relax and a chance to swap stories and connect with bartenders at other spots. So where do some of your favorite bartenders head when not delighting you with their latest concoctions?
“My favorite place to drink after a bar shift, or on a day off, is anywhere where the crowds have cleared out and you can walk in and be a breath of fresh air for a colleague who’s just been through the weeds,” says Drew Kuechler, who spreads his time behind the stick working at Smyrna and consulting at the newly opened Crozet rooftop spot, Bar Botanical.
Andrea Rouillard, assistant bar manager at The Alley Light, doesn’t venture out with the same frequency as she did in years past, but when the mood to hit the town strikes, she has some favorites. “I like to pop by Lost Saint and see a whole bunch of my friends,” she says. “Nicky and Niko there usually have some playful cocktails with good puns or jokes that make me giggle.”
In a state where drink programs are often limited by brands and ingredients, it can feel more difficult to be innovative, so it’s not uncommon for bartenders to swap advice on fixes for impossible to stock products or share specs on a rediscovered classic. Having recently returned to the Charlottesville bar scene to take the helm as bar manager and assistant general manager at Café Frank, John Higginbotham is viewing things with a fresh perspective. After spending the last two years digging into San Diego’s cocktail culture, Higginbothom is eager to put his learnings to work. “I got to work with some of the absolute best in the business, working in and around incredible bar programs and having access to ideas, techniques, and ingredients I hadn’t experienced previously,” says Higginbotham.
He also finds himself in an era of life where nightly bar outings are a thing of the past. “I don’t go out nearly as much as I used to, but when I do make it out I really dig sitting at the bar at Oakhart chatting with the staff, or the patio at Guajiros, anywhere that has a solid daiquiri and mojito on the menu is calling my name.”
Often when their evenings have been spent crafting the perfect cocktails for thirsty patrons, asking for the same experience from another in the trenches isn’t the look, rather bartenders keep it quick and simple when patronizing other spots. Kuechler says the best part of a post-shift drink—or any drink on a day off—is just chatting with whoever is behind the bar, and “a beer and a shot of fernet, or a rail bourbon, depending on the day” hits the spot.
Rouillard agrees. “I’m a huge fan of all the Miller’s bartenders. And a place that serves me shots of tequila or fernet (depending on the night I’ve had), cold Coors Light, and chicken tenders or pretzel bites until 1am is sure to find a way into my heart. And I have a soft spot for Dex over at Brightside, with his Miami Vices and pimento dip.”
As the long days of summer set in, and much of the Charlottesville service industry sees the pace slow, look for your favorite bartender on the other side of the bar, enjoying a cold drink, whatever their go-to may be.—Carrie Meslar
Original WJ Moonshine Punch from The Whiskey Jar
The once-illegal moonshine gets dressed up with a mix of seasonal fruit and citrus, plus some dashes of orange and angostura bitters. Photo by Eze Amos.
Espresso Martiki from Vitae Spirits
A modern favorite gets an infusion of coconut plus the distillery’s own coffee liqueur, a local collaboration with Mudhouse Coffee Roasters. Photo by Eze Amos.
Big City Blues from Public Fish & Oyster
This hybrid concoction is a fusion of a mint julep and a Manhattan (with a touch of
blueberry shrub). Photo by Emily Sacco.
Beer before wine
Local winemakers share their brewery favorites
Local brewers offer many refreshing beers, from crisp lagers to fruity IPAs and unique sour beers. Our list of favorites from area winemakers might help you find your own new favorite. Supplied photo.
“It takes a lot of beer to make good wine” is oft repeated among winemakers, though the saying’s origin remains unknown. After a hot and tiring day working in the vineyard, a cold refreshing beer is often the beverage of choice. Curious as to what local brews area winemakers are enjoying, we asked for their recommendations.
Emily Hodson Veritas Vineyards and Winery
Hodson names the Baby Bask from Basic City Beer Co. as her current favorite. She finds the New England-style IPA to be “a balanced IPA with great freshness and citrus quality.”
Ben Jordan Common Wealth Crush Co.
Jordan also includes a Basic City beer among his favorites. The Te Reo, which the brewery describes as a “New Zealand pilsner,” is a distinct lager, dry-hopped with hops sourced from New Zealand. (Jordan’s recently established winery is located immediately adjacent to Basic City in Waynesboro.)
Stephen Barnard Delfosse Vineyards and Winery
Barnard, who recently took over winemaking at Delfosse after leaving Keswick Vineyards, points to the Home Run Hefe from Patch Brewing Co. as his current favorite. Barnard describes the beer as “cloudy, fruity, and full of that yeasty character” that he loves.
AJ GreelyHark Vineyards
A self-proclaimed “sucker for Belgian-style Tripels,” Greely appreciates complexity not just in wine but also in her beer. She finds the Tripel Note from Starr Hill Brewery to be a great example of the style, specifically appreciating the “hints of fruit and spice” that it brings.
Kirsty Harmon Blenheim Vineyards
Harmon favors the Helles Lager from Fine Creek Brewing Company, located in nearby Powhatan. She describes it as a “light and crisp, no-nonsense beer that is refreshing and perfect in hot, humid weather.” Harmon has sampled numerous Fine Creek brews thanks to an ongoing professional collaboration between Blenheim and Fine Creek.
Rachel Stinson VroomanStinson Vineyards
The Raspberries on Acid from Blue Mountain Brewery currently sits at the top of Vrooman’s list. Although she clarifies that she isn’t seeking this flavor profile in her wine, she finds a “high alcohol sour beer so refreshing in the summer.” She also applauds the fact the beer is aged in used barrels from Michael Shaps Wineworks.
Michael Shaps Michael Shaps Wineworks
Speaking of Wineworks, Shaps offers two recommendations. For everyday consumption, he likes the Three Notch’d 40 Mile IPA due to its “slightly richer style,” and notes the West Coast-style IPA has just enough hop character. However, during harvest, he opts for a lighter, thirst-quenching beer and favors the Hardywood Park Craft Brewery Pils, a classic German-style Pilsner.
Matthieu Finot King Family Vineyards
“I was drinking a lot of IPA 10 or 15 years ago, but I have to say with my old age that I am not drinking as much … I need to watch my dad bod!” This is how Finot humorously explains his preference for beers that are, in his words, “everything that is not trendy.” Finot proffers the “light, crisp, and refreshing” Vienna Lager from Devils Backbone Brewing Company as a great example that aligns with his tastes.—Paul Ting
It may not be the obvious choice in warmer weather, but chillable red wine is an excellent way to explore new flavors and challenge conventional norms. File photo.
As temperatures rise, wine enthusiasts naturally adjust their drinking preferences. Besides the desire for something chilled, lighter, and more refreshing in the glass, the culinary options tend to be lighter as well. Seafoods, salads, grilled chicken, and similar dishes pair better with lighter-bodied wines with higher acidity.
Opting for a red wine, instead of white or rosé, is considered an unconventional choice in the summer. Red wines are typically served at room temperature to allow their depth, body, and complexity of aroma and flavor to shine. However, as it heats up outdoors, so does the temperature of wine in the glass, which can amplify the perception of alcohol, often already high in bigger-bodied red wines, making it heavier and less refreshing.
Warmer temperatures also intensify the higher amount of tannins in red, resulting in a more astringent and drying sensation on the palate that’s unappealing when seeking out a thirst-quenching beverage. What is often overlooked is that some red wines benefit from a slight chill. They may even be intentionally crafted in a style best served at a lower temperature. These wines offer an interesting and often delightful alternative for warm weather enjoyment.
In general, chillable red wines possess characteristics that allow them to retain the allure of red wine while providing a pleasurable experience when chilled. Look for reds that are lighter bodied, lower in alcohol, higher in acidity, and lower in tannins.
To produce these lighter wines, producers turn to grape varieties such as pinot noir or chambourcin. Harvesting fruit earlier, at slightly lower ripeness levels, helps retain acidity and can result in lighter-bodied wines with lower alcohol levels. Limiting skin contact before pressing the grapes will decrease tannin levels. And some winemakers blend white grape varieties with red grape varieties, reducing body and tannins.
When served chilled, wines of this nature often reveal vibrant fruit flavors and refreshing acidity, in addition to exhibiting great versatility when it comes to food pairing. Keep in mind that even red wine meant to be chilled is not typically served as cold as white wine, and overly cold temperatures can mask the flavors in wine. By experimenting, you might find the best of both worlds—a chilled and refreshing drink that still retains the complexity and flavor associated with red wine.
Play it cool with these local reds
Early Mountain Vineyards 2022 Young Wine Red ($24) The hybrid grape chambourcin grows consistently in Virginia, and provides a unique combination of good color extraction and low to moderate tannin levels. The 2022 Young Wine is 58 percent chambourcin blended with 42 percent vidal blanc, which is a white hybrid grape. This is intentional winemaking that creates a highly approachable, lean-bodied wine with minimal tannins, low alcohol content, and refreshing acidity.
Lightwell Survey 2022 Between the Light and the Dark ($25) A collaborative project with Troddenvale Cider, this intriguing blend combines 67 percent grapes including chambourcin and vidal blanc, with 33 percent Ashmead’s Kernel apples. Flavors of citrus, cranberry, green apple, and blossom finish with a hint of gentle tannins. With a modest alcohol level of only 10 percent and refreshing acidity, this blend is light on the palate and very easy to drink.
Bluestone Vineyard 2022 Half Bubble Off-Center ($27.50) Bluestone characterizes this as rosé, but it has enough color to be considered a light-bodied red wine. Made with 100 percent chambourcin, the bubbles were created utilizing the pétillant naturel method. In short, the wine was bottled just prior to completing fermentation, allowing the naturally occurring carbon dioxide to remain as it finished fermenting in the bottle. The result is a playful wine that delivers red fruit flavors accompanied by a rolling effervescence on the palate.
Ankida Ridge 2021 Pinot Noir ($58) Pinot noir is suitable for chilling. The grape thrives in cooler conditions, which help preserve its acidity and keep alcohol levels moderate. Additionally, the grape has thin skins, resulting in lower extraction and tannin levels. This example from Ankida Ridge features flavors of bright red cherry and cranberry, complemented by notes of dried leaves and spice. Wonderful without chilling, but a light chill makes it an excellent option for a summer evening.
Jennifer Mowad has some sweet things to say about taking ownership of
Firefly Restaurant & Game Room. Photo by Chris Martin.
Spring has brought us a burst of foodie news, and we can hardly keep track of what’s new, what’s gone, and what we can’t wait to try.
Taco the town
Brazos Tacos has officially opened a second location at Barracks Road Shopping Center. The Texas-style taqueria is open from 11am–8pm daily, with a menu Brazos enthusiasts know and love, sans boozy beverages—for now. While the taqueria waits on its ABC license, enjoy your lunch break in style with a juicy NA watermelon marg and munch on an I Willie Love You or This is My Yam in the newly renovated interior, or on the sunny outdoor patio.
New orders
The arrival of The Forum Hotel at UVA brought two new restaurants to the scene. Birch & Bloom is a modern, farm-to-table steakhouse. For a more casual night out, visit The Good Sport, a welcoming craft beer bar with tavern fare.
Black Cow Chophouse, a new eatery from the team at Public Fish & Oyster, has been serving up quality cuts from its wood-fired hearth in the former Little Star space.
Up route 29, the much anticipated Seoul Korean BBQ & Hotpot is now open for business. And in Belmont, Tavola expanded by four seats, with the Piccola—a cozy private dining room featuring upscale, chef-curated prix-fixe.
Sip on this
Devils Backbone Backyard, the brewery’s first urban location, opened May 23 at 1000 W. Main St. The space has housed multiple breweries in the past, including Hardywood Pilot Brewery & Taproom.
Monticello got back into the wine business when Jefferson Vineyards was acquired by the Thomas Jefferson Foundation in February. It’s a full circle acquisition that traces back to 1773, when Jefferson convinced Italian vintner Philip Mazzei to plant a vineyard on a plot of land down the road from Monticello. Their enterprise wasn’t as successful as they’d hoped, but 250 years later Jefferson Vineyards is dedicated to crafting outstanding wine, including the 2023 Virginia Governor’s Cup award-winning Petit Manseng 2021.
Moving and shaking
There’s a lot cooking out in Crozet. A flood in Piedmont Place forced early goodbyes to Morsel Compass and Blue Ridge Bottle Shop, but Crozet Creamery is still serving up scoops. Smoked Kitchen made it to higher ground, moving into the former Taste Shack space at 2291 Seminole Ln. Slated to top things off this summer is Bar Botanical, a rooftop concept with mountain views, craft cocktails, and small plates from vegan eatery Botanical Fare.
The Yellow Mug is serving coffee and pastries in the old Green House Coffee space, and up the road Praha Bohemian Bakery & Cafe is open for business. Snag a freshly baked bagel sandwich or kolach from 7am–5pm daily.
Greenwood Gourmet Grocery brought back its weekly supper club—talk about elevated takeout. The $35 meal feeds two people, with optional dessert, wine pairing add-ons, and a new menu dropping every two weeks.
Dairy tales
At Dairy Market, Angelic’s Kitchen has closed up shop, but it’s not goodbye forever. Owner Angelic Jenkins still serves up her soul food for catering, and says she hopes to land at another brick-and-mortar spot soon. Bee Conscious Baking Co. has also moved out of the food hall. The husband-and-wife duo now offer their delightful baked goods at Ix Farmers Market, and launched their first CSA this year. Flaky pastries will be back soon, once Paradox Pastry moves into the empty stall. Meat-free eaters can find GRN Burger in a new location next to Citizen Burger Stand with new menu additions like the Chik’n Mocknuggets.
Passing the apron
Market Street Wine founder Siân Richards was ready for a new adventure, and turned the keys over to wine aficionado Erin Scala. Ace Biscuit & BBQ closed its doors, before opening again thanks to fan-turned-owner Stefan Friedman. Jennifer Mowad is the new owner of Firefly Restaurant & Game Room. Mowad, who owns Cocoa & Spice in York Place, says “the Firefly you know and love is here to stay … maybe with a little extra sweetness added over time!” She takes over from longtime owner Melissa Meece.
Let’s get dranks
Drink your way through downtown at the Spring Stroll, currently underway through the month of May. The bar crawl features cocktails, mocktails, and specialty drinks at various bars spots including Twisted Branch Tea Bazaar, The Alley Light, and Quirk Hotel. For more info, go to friendsofcville.org
The sips continue with a Pride Bar Crawl on June 3–4. The self-paced bar hop starts with a party at Dairy Market, before moving to Starr Hill, Random Row, Umma’s, and more. Get more deets at @cvillebarcrawl
Finally, enjoy a nightcap during daylight at the Virginia Spirits Expo on June 3. Visit with, learn about, and sample from over 20 award-winning Virginia distilleries. Learn more at virginiaspiritsexpo.com
Pie praise
Help yourself to a piece of pie at Cville Pie Fest (cvillepiefest.com) on June 10. The fundraiser for WTJU includes a tasting, judging, and live music. Got your eyes on the pies? Register your own pie by May 31 to compete for first.
At Siren, chef Laura Fonner has built a following around her seasonal, Mediterranean comfort dishes. Photo by Eze Amos.
By Carrie Meslar
The story of Siren is a love story. Maybe not a typical love story, but like many authentic ones, the path that led chef Laura Fonner to open her own restaurant was full of unexpected twists and turns. And some major bombshells.
If you haven’t dined at Siren, located in the former Shebeen Pub & Braai spot on Ridge McIntire Road, you’ve likely heard of Fonner, who won The Food Network series “Guy’s Grocery Games,” hosted by celebrity chef Guy Fieri, and then was the victor on a spinoff of the show that featured a tournament of “Guy’s Grocery Games’” champions. Fonner is not just a name on the local food scene, she’s a seasoned veteran of cooking under the added pressure of cameras, lights, cash prizes, and business partners.
The longtime head of the kitchen at Duners, Fonner seemed to many, including herself, destined to find her happily-ever-after as the eventual owner of the legendary establishment. But a twist of fate found her partnering in a restaurant with an entirely new concept. And then another twist.
“In July of 2022, we suddenly started experiencing money issues,” says Siren’s General Manager Erin McGowan. “Our bank card was being declined, vendors were starting to complain that they hadn’t been paid, etc. … Laura didn’t have access to the bank account and fully trusted that her partner was making sure bills were paid. Siren was a successful restaurant from the day we opened, so it was quite a shock to find out how bad of a place we were in.”
With Siren being a product not just of Fonner’s physical labor, but her emotional energy as well, she vented her frustration in a widely shared social media post last winter. “I know who I am. I know how hard I have fought to keep my dream alive. I know how hard I will continue to fight,” she wrote.
Eventually coming to an agreement with her business partner, Fonner acquired full ownership of the restaurant this spring. And as Siren settles into its second year, the seafood spot with a Mediterranean flair has quickly become a highlight on lists of where to eat in a town.
The menu features not just seasonal fare, but a rotation of dishes rooted in the inspiration Fonner derives from what is fresh and interesting—a quick scroll through the restaurant’s Instagram shows a gallery of specials that arrive and disappear at a rate that is only feasible in a chef-driven environment. There are fan favorites that have remained staples, including the panko-fried oysters (recently featured in C-VILLE), plus clam chowder, shaved beet salad, and eggplant moussaka.
The ambience at Siren is equal parts cozy and airy. Its extensive patio holds the promise of good times on balmy evenings, and the bar offers its own welcoming pocket-sized vibe for those looking for a casual drink or dinner. Monday nights feature live bluegrass and a “gourmet stoner food” menu at the bar. This is particularly noteworthy on a night of the week that can often prove challenging for those looking to eat out.
As dining culture continues to adjust post-pandemic, it seems patrons crave more than just the food: They want to connect with the personalities that make a restaurant successful. Fonner says this current fascination with kitchen life can create a disconnect between chef and customer. “We are real people who have real lives, and I think sometimes customers forget that,” she says. “Sometimes we get dehumanized.”
The professional kitchen has long been a workplace dominated by men, but Fonner looks at the environment as a welcome challenge, and is optimistic about the future. “This industry has gotten better and more accepting to female chefs, and the thought that it doesn’t matter your gender—your drive and your grind is what counts.”
“Laura is unlike any chef I have ever met,” says McGowan. “She’s humble, down to earth, she listens and would rather people ask her questions to make sure things are done correctly the first time versus trying to fix a mistake later.”
As she prepared to participate in a recent out-of-town event, Fonner worked late into the night. “As I was wrapping up prep work at around 2:30am, the song ‘More of You’ by Chris Stapleton came on,” says Fonner, an avid music fan. “This is my love song for food. My food tasted like my love for that song. It was amazing, so amazing I told the story to the guests at the event and got to watch them taste music in my food. It was one of the most special and fulfilling moments ever.”
As she surveys her future in Charlottesville’s dining scene, Fonner has faith in a love story inclusive of her peers. “If you truly know what we have to offer as a culinary community, then you know we are rich in amazing choices of amazing food,” she says.—with additional reporting by Tami Keaveny
