Tag: Brasserie Saison

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Culture Food & Drink Living

Students grab healthier options, and the Downtown Mall faces French paradox

Smoke in our eyes

A new Q joint started smoking last Friday. Vision Barbecue is pioneered by co-owners Mike Blevins and Gabi Barghachie, who came up with their “vision” for the restaurant while working together at Maya. These barbecue boys are on a mission to add their own take on authentic smoked meats and sides to the downtown restaurant scene. “We are using local wood and a match,” Barghachie says. “No chemical starters, no gas, no electric. Everything done the way it’s supposed to be done.” The menu offers meats by the pound, traditional sides with a spicy variation on pimento cheese, and Little Pig- and Big Hen-sized sandwiches for all appetites. Be sure to grab the wet naps when you pick up VB’s signature sammie, The Hot Mess, loaded with 10 ounces of brisket, pork, and chicken, and topped with pickled onions and jalapeño plus housemade cheese and pepper sauces. Vision Barbecue is located next to The Shebeen at 249 Ridge McIntire Rd., and is open Thursday through Monday.

Crammin’ the good stuff

While we can’t imagine students completely ditching Gusburgers, donuts, and Chinese food delivery, it’s exciting to see UVA’s commitment to healthy, sustainable eating through a new partner­ship with Harvest Table. A subsidiary of Aramark, Harvest Table specializes in bringing locally sourced, high-quality food to institutional dining. Throughout the fall semester, the company tested its “immersive culinary movement” with pop-ups inside Runk dining hall, before fully integrating to bring Hoos a fresh, eco-friendly alternative.

All Runk food now comes from within a 150-mile radius of Charlottesville and is prepared entirely in-house—no premade hamburger patties, no packaged desserts. Through the initiative, students can choose non-GMO, antibiotic-free, and grass-fed as well as plant-based proteins, and there are options for those with food allergies and sensitivities.

Peter Bizon, executive chef for Harvest Table at Runk, says that university dining halls provide an excellent opportunity to bring local businesses together. He’s teamed up with Shenandoah Joe’s for coffee and Blue Ridge Bucha for on-tap kombucha.

“Some farms have the necessary licensing to do business with us and some don’t,” says Bizon. “We specialize in connecting the ones who don’t with the ones who do in order to foster cooperation among local producers. It means a lot when you can work with local farmers. You can get others involved and create a strong community.”

Harvest Table is also partnering with Babylon Micro-Farms, an organization founded by UVA alumni that helps restaurants grow produce in-house with systems that are remotely climate controlled and can support a wide
variety of plants, from lettuces to herbs, and even some edible flowers.

The university hopes to extend Harvest Table’s services to its other two dining halls in the future.

Frites on hold

While many local restos have pivoted creatively to stay open safely, using igloos, outdoor heaters, blankets, and stepped-up takeout offerings, Brasserie Saison has opted to close temporarily for the winter. The official statement from the popular Euro-pub says, “The health and safety of our restaurant family and community come first and we feel that the risk is too great for indoor dining during these winter months.” Owners say they plan to reopen in the spring, after the majority of the restaurant staff is able to receive vaccines. Then we can finally get back to enjoying the moules frites.

Frites on the go

Meanwhile, just up the mall, there’s another new restaurant from Ten Course Hospitality (the group behind Brasserie Saison, Revolutionary Soup, The Alley Light, The Pie Chest, The Bebedero, and most recently The Milkman’s Bar at Dairy Market): Café Frank, with an original menu from Chef Jose De Brito, whose resume includes Fleurie, The Alley Light, and The Inn at Little Washington. The new café is located in the former home of Splendora’s Gelato (we miss you!), and promises casual, French dining on the Downtown Mall (plus a robust daily to-go menu). The café’s bar program is by Mike Stewart, and Will Richey will curate the bistro-style wine list. We are excited to try the Royal Paella-for-Two with lobster, mussels, shrimp, and chorizo, but the hidden gem of this new foodie magnet might be the 4pm aperitif hour, when De Brito creates unique bites to pair with a prosecco bar-style sparkling wine list and cocktails. Café Frank is accepting takeout orders, and will be open for in-house dining Monday through Saturday beginning in March. —Will Ham

Categories
Culture Food & Drink Living

Shots that satisfy

It’s been a tough year for restaurants, and it remains a serious challenge for many to stay open. Sadly, we’ve already lost some local favorites, and there may be more to come. However, in the midst of it all, there are amazing stories of adaptation, re-invention, pivoting, and even new businesses opening against the odds. Here are some recent Instagram favorites that offer a glimpse of not just delicious eats, but the resilience and heart of our food community. —Paul H. Ting

@ironpaffles
The fried chicken and mac’n’cheese from Iron Paffles and Coffee is a must-try dish. The paffle is unique to Charlottesville, and an invention of resilient chef-owner Kathryn Matthews. During the last week of 2019, Matthews was involved in a serious car accident that left her unable to perform even simple tasks, and just one week after she returned to work, the coronavirus shutdowns began. Her dining room remains closed, but online ordering, delivery, and takeout are keeping the business going.

@little.star.cville
Little Star was really coming into its own as it celebrated one year in business at the beginning of 2020. With the onset of colder weather, tents have been installed over the restaurant’s outdoor patio. This monkfish, beans, and clam dish is representative of chef Ryan Smith’s food, which features unique ingredient combinations, sauces with impactful flavor, and beautiful plating.

@zynodoa
Zynodoa in nearby Staunton has installed heaters for diners who want to enjoy dishes like this one outdoors. Featuring a beautiful pork chop from Autumn Olive Farms (@autumn_olive_farms), a local farm best known for supplying high-quality products to many area restaurants. The farm went through its own pivot during the pandemic, and started selling directly to consumers.

@cville.foodie
Our local farmers’ markets and food trucks have provided many of us with a variety of delicious options. Two favorites are Sweet Jane’s Kitchen (@sweetjaneskitchen_va) and Tacos Gomez (@tacos_gomez). Sweet Jane’s offers freshly made crab cakes at markets in Charlottesville and Richmond, either cooked and ready to eat or ready to prepare at home. Tacos Gomez food truck has a devoted following, and looking at their Torta Cubana it’s easy to see why.

@sshanesy
As much effort and courage as it takes to keep a restaurant going right now, it takes perhaps more courage to open a new restaurant during a pandemic. In January 2020, brothers John and Scott Shanesy announced plans to partner in Belle (@bellecville), and move from coffee to a restaurant and bakery with a focus on breakfast and lunch. It’s truly heartening to see them go from selling baked goods out of a dining room that was closed before it even opened, to becoming a beloved Belmont neighborhood small business.

@rationsandoldfashioneds
The Wool Factory (@the_wool_factory) planned to open its multi-use space by hosting two weddings in April 2020. Despite the setback of having its first several events canceled, the property pressed on with a socially distanced opening of Selvedge Brewing (@selvedgebrewing) in the summer. The kitchen at Selvedge, helmed by chef Tucker Yoder, serves an elevated version of brewpub food. The Selvedge Burger is made with local beef and is as satisfying as it looks.

@coucourachou
Chef Rachel DeJong, who earned her diplôme de pâtisserie in Paris, and serves as the executive pastry chef for The Wool Factory, recently launched her own project, a bakery called Cou Cou Rachou, which will open soon. Until it does, her classic French breads and pastries are available at The Wool Factory, Grit Coffee, and Brasserie Saison. These perfect canelés are beautiful to look at, taste even better than they look, and, like all of her products, have received rave reviews.

@fowlmouthedchicken
Chef Harrison Keevil deserves special mention—and not just for his delicious food, like this boneless fried half chicken with black pepper honey. Keevil started a free meal program in response to COVID-19 to combat food insecurity and feed area residents in need. At last count, he has cooked and delivered over 31,000 meals locally. Bravo Harrison!

Categories
Culture Living

Turning the tables: Supper at the Superette, Bashir’s Taverna closing

Bashir Khelafa says he will close his Downtown Mall restaurant in September. Image: Jackson Smith

When Brasserie Saison reopened for dinner service in late July, it did so with a new general manager: Stephen Kelly, who came to Charlottesville from the highly acclaimed New York City restaurant Eleven Madison Park (see the August 12 C-VILLE issue for more on Kelly).

Along with the reopening news, Champion Hospitality Group and partner Reid Dougherty, the original bar director at Brasserie, announced that takeaway market Superette Saison is set to open next door in the former Verdigris retail space. CHG principal and Brasserie owner Hunter Smith says, “The time is perfect for the Superette, which will allow customers to get a nice bottle of wine and a sandwich to go, while takeout is the order of the day, and beyond.”

Survival mode

Since mid-March, local restaurants have felt the staggering effects of the COVID-19 pandemic, and the fallout continues to reverberate throughout our community.

The latest casualty is Mediterranean favorite Bashir’s Taverna, which will close its Downtown Mall doors in September, after being in operation since 1996.

In July, the owner’s of Littlejohn’s Delicatessen on the UVA Corner launched a GoFundMe, noting that the sandwich shop may not return without raising the necessary funds to keep weathering the storm.

Now, more than ever, it’s important to support local restaurants: dine outside, order takeout, or buy a gift card. It may be the thing that keeps them going.

In the spirits

Earlier this month, Lovingston-based Virginia Distillery Company released its fourth annual Charity Cask Virginia-Highland Whisky, with this year’s batch benefiting the Nelson County Community Fund, Inc. The coffee-finished whisky is a collab with cold brew coffee company Snowing in Space, and  fewer than 300 bottles were produced. The distillery is still closed to visitors, but the Charity Cask is available exclusively to Virginia residents for shipping or curbside pickup. For more details, go to vadistillery.com.

Greenberry’s Coffee Roastery is also getting into the hard-coffee-drink market. The local chain recently launched a new line of products, Nitro Cold Brew with Spirits. Six different canned varieties are available with flavor notes like honey vanilla, salted caramel, and coconut chocolate. Find ’em at Whole Foods or email roasters@greenberrys.com to place an order for pick up.

Pair up with Chef Antwon

While you’re socially distancing at home, why not learn a new skill? Local chef Antwon Brinson is offering a variety of cooking classes to suit your taste buds. Options range from group and private classes to a cooking and wine pairing with a guest sommelier. Recipes, grocery lists, and instructions are all part of the package. For more details and the current menu, visit culinaryconceptsab.com.

Categories
Living

Liquid gold: Local cidery and coffee roaster garner national awards

The Harrison apple, an heirloom variety once thought to be extinct, was reintroduced by Tom Burford of Albemarle CiderWorks—and used to make an award-winning cider. Photo: Courtesy Albemarle CiderWorks

On Friday, January 17, Albemarle CiderWorks and Mudhouse Coffee Roasters scored top honors in the 2020 Good Food Awards in San Francisco. Among more than 2,000 entrants, the cidery and coffee producer were regional (South) winners in their respective categories—ACW for its Harrison cider, and Mudhouse for its Geisha Moras Negras roast. Bestowed annually by the creators of Slow Food Nations, the awards recognize “players in the food system who are driving towards tasty, authentic, and responsible food in order to humanize and reform our American food culture.”

Albemarle CiderWorks’ Harrison cider took top regional (South) honors at the annual Good Foods Awards in San Francisco. Photo: Courtesy Albemarle CiderWorks

As the name suggests, the ACW cider is made from the Harrison apple, an 18th-century variety that fell out of use and was thought to be extinct until its rediscovery in the late 1970s. Years later, ACW’s Thomas Burford became the first contemporary orchardist to cultivate the yellow, black-speckled Harrison, and today it is widely grown and popular among cider makers (but too ugly for supermarket sales).

The story of Mudhouse’s award winner begins in 1960, when the Geisha coffee variety was introduced in Panama. Mudhouse sources its beans from a third-generation family farm there. Grown at an altitude of about 5,400 feet, the fruit is hand-picked by migrant laborers from the Ngäbe-Buglé indigenous region, and it is quite precious. Eight ounces of Mudhouse’s Moras Negras will set you back $75. That’s more than most of us would be willing to pay. But at the 2006 Best of Panama event, an executive from Vermont’s Green Mountain Coffee remarked, “I am the least religious person here and when I tasted this coffee I saw the face of God in a cup.”

If you’re into that sort of thing, you can buy the stuff at mudhouse.com.

Speaking of awards…

Five local vineyards wowed the judges at the 2020 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, securing prestigious awards and doing the Monticello American Viticultural Area proud. Jefferson and Barboursville vineyards, Veritas Vineyard & Winery, and Trump Winery earned Double Gold designations for five wines, and newcomer Hark Vineyards was the only Best in Class winner from Virginia, singled out in the classic packaging category for its 2017 chardonnay label design. The Chronicle’s annual event is the largest in North America, drawing 6,700 entries from 1,000 wineries this year. Judges dole out Double Gold medals sparingly but found worthy recipients in the Jefferson Vineyards 2018 viognier, Barboursville’s 2018 vermentino, and Trump Winery’s 2016 meritage (a red blend consisting primarily of cabernet franc). Veritas nabbed two double-golds for cabernet franc bottlings, the 2017 reserve and 2017 standard in the $40-and-over and under-$30 categories, respectively.

This is nuts!

Sorry, fans of dairy alternatives like soy and almond milk, you may have to adapt to new terminology. A bill just cleared the Virginia House Agriculture Subcommittee defining milk as “the lacteal secretion, practically free of colostrum, obtained by the complete milking of a healthy hooved mammal.” The measure is intended to protect the commonwealth’s dairy industry from the surge in popularity of plant-based “milk” products. The legislation is moooving up the lawmaking food chain for further consideration.

Munch madness

C-VILLE’s Restaurant Week 2020 kicks off Friday, January 24, with 40 restaurants offering three-course meals for $29 or $39 (plus tax and a huge tip, please)—and presenting some tantalizing dishes. We’ve got our hungry little eyes on a few, including: Little Star’s seared rockfish with escarole, chipotle, manchego, and pimento fundito; Fleurie’s pan-roasted Polyface Farm chicken with braised cabbage and bacon; Kama’s grilled Virginia oysters with uni butter; 1799 at The Clifton’s rainbow trout with sweet potato, kale, and orange emulsion; Three Notch’d’s truffled mushroom ragout with potato gnocchi, vegetarian bordelaise, baked kale, and pecorino; and to top things off, Common House (aka Vinegar Hall)’s buttermilk panna cotta with persimmon jam. A portion of the proceeds benefit the Blue Ridge Area Food Bank, so eat up!

Bird is the word

Bowerbird Bakeshop, that is. The team behind the City Market stalwart recently announced a brick-and-mortar location at the Tenth Street Warehouses this spring. On Monday, co-owners Earl Vallery and Maria Niechwiadowicz surpassed their $5,555 GoFundMe target (by about $500) to defray part of the $70,000 start-up costs. Ten percent of all donations above the goal benefit City of Promise, the nonprofit working to empower underserved populations in Charlottesville.

Movin’ on up

It’s last call at Ace Biscuit & BBQ’s Henry Street location. The charming storefront next to Vitae Spirits will close on January 26 as the kings of carbo-loading move to bigger digs at 600 Concord Ave., just a couple of blocks away. No opening date at the new location has been announced.

Plus ça change

Less than a year after taking the helm at Gordonsville’s Rochambeau, Michelin-starred chef Bernard Guillot has returned to France, citing personal reasons. But the restaurant won’t miss a beat, as Jean-Louis and Karen Dumonet step in to fill the void in early February. The couple met long ago at cooking school in Paris and have been collaborating on restaurants all over the world for 35-plus years. Their latest project, Dumonet, was a popular French bistro in Brooklyn.

It’s mai-tai o’clock somewhere

Now that it’s actually cold outside, Brasserie Saison is hosting a Tropical Tiki Getaway so you can mind-trip to a warm, sandy beach. The intimate downstairs Coat Room will be decorated like a luau (we see a fake palm tree in our future) and paper-umbrella cocktails will be served. Wear your Hawaiian shirts and flip-flops. 6-10pm, Thursday, January 30. 111 E. Main St., Downtown Mall, 202-7027, brasseriesaison.net.

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News

In brief: A booze trail, one new declaration, two new job openings, and more…

City boosters and brewmasters have come together to blaze the Charlottesville Ale Trail, a two-mile stretch they’re calling the premier urban and pedestrian beer trail in Virginia. Click to enlarge.

‘United by beer’

City boosters and brewmasters have come together to blaze the Charlottesville Ale Trail, a two-mile stretch they’re calling the premier urban and pedestrian beer trail in Virginia.

The six stops along the way are Random Row Brewing Co., Brasserie Saison, South Street Brewery, Champion Brewing Company, Three Notch’d Craft Kitchen & Brewery, and Hardywood Pilot Brewery & Taproom.

After downloading a “passport” at charlottesvillealetrail.org, participants are encouraged to visit each stop for a pint or plate, which will earn them a stamp in their passport. Get a stamp from each spot, and you’ll win a prize.

“Cheers,” said Random Row co-owner Bradley Kipp at a September 3 press conference. He says he’s always amazed by the collaborative nature of local brewers, who pitched in with business advice and tips on how to source ingredients when he opened Random Row two years ago. A press release called this phenomenon “united by beer.”

Chris Engel, the city’s director of economic development, said there was only one brewery in town when he moved here in 2005. Then, in 2012, the General Assembly voted to allow breweries to sell full glasses of beer without restaurants on-site, which “lit a fire under microbreweries,” he said.

Tourism has a $600 million impact on the community annually, according to Engel, and he hopes the ale trail will help drive that.

But to drink half a dozen pints and walk the whole trail in a day? Says Engel, “You gotta be committed.”

Great pay, lousy hours

City Council’s clerk and Chief of Staff Paige Rice is leaving her $98K-a-year job September 21 after eight years. Rice’s job was recently retitled “chief of staff” when it was expanded to include supervision of two new staff positions as well as the assistant clerk, an arrangement that Mike Signer describes as a “parallel government to the city manager.”

Nice raise

Rice’s salary as clerk was $72,842 in 2017, and it was bumped $25K—35 percent—when she became chief of staff.

Suicide support

City councilors  honored Suicide Prevention Month (September) with an official declaration at their September 17 meeting. “Let’s take a moment to check on our friends, even the strong ones. Let’s support each other. Let’s love each other,” urged Councilor Wes Bellamy on Instagram.

Jail board vacancy

Bellamy (center) at the September board meeting. Photo: Eze Amos

Bellamy also announced at the council meeting an opening for a Charlottesville representative on the Albemarle-Charlottesville Regional Jail board, which has recently been at the center of controversy surrounding voluntary calls to federal immigration agents when undocumented immigrants are released from jail. Interested citizens are urged to apply (though you’ll have to wait till the position gets posted).

Appalachian tuition break

UVA’s Board of Visitors voted to expand tuition discounts for out-of-state students who live in the federally defined Appalachia region and attend UVA’s campus at Wise, the Cav Daily reports.

Back to work

After the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission issued a stop work order to builders of the controversial $6 billion Atlantic Coast Pipeline earlier this summer because there was concern that it would interrupt federally protected species near the Blue Ridge Parkway, Dominion Energy spokesperson Aaron Ruby said September 17 that the National Park Service and U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service have concluded the project is safe, and work will resume.

Autopsy results

Charlottesville Police have ruled the death of Thomas Charles “Colonel” Franklin, 65, a suicide, as reported by CBS19. Franklin died June 10 when he left the Cedars Healthcare Center and drowned in a nearby creek.

Sisterly love

While some folks in Charlottesville were still hiding from Hurricane Florence on September 17, the delegation visiting its French sister city, Besançon, was celebrating the two towns’ liaison. Mayors Jean-Louis Fousseret and Nikuyah Walker planted a poplar tree to commemorate the dedication of a traffic circle in the French city, named after our town in central Virginia.

Quote of the week:

“Those in glass houses shouldn’t throw stones.” —U.S. Senate candidate Corey Stewart, who accused senators of having their own “secret ‘creep list,’” and advocated the confirmation of Judge Brett Kavanaugh to the Supreme Court

Categories
Living

The best local bars for each drinking decade

C&O’s barnwood-paneled downstairs bar is like a speakeasy without the secret knock. Photo by Stephen Barling

By Pen + Knife bloggers
eatdrink@c-ville.com

For generations, authorities have buried the lede when warning us about alcohol killing brain cells. Omitted from the tired mantra is the truth that some of our deepest seeds of wisdom are sewn at watering holes and colored by booze. Bars are like classrooms, just more practical, and the life lessons enduring. No matter our demographic, we’re still learning in our 20s, 30s and 40s from a barstool perch. Thankfully, the local scene is abundant with venues for every age bracket. Let’s bar crawl through a few of our favorite decade-appropriate spots.         

Your 20s: Parallel 38

Get your first round at Parallel 38 on West Main Street—a reasonable distance from the Corner and college days (because you’re an #adult now), while still close enough for security blanket purposes. Your new booze cravings are thoughtful cocktails with carefully selected ingredients that your mom’s herb garden would approve of. The downstairs bar at Parallel is perfectly low-lit, has an intimate, sophisticated NYC vibe and is ideal for drinks with the gals or a first post-grad Bumble date. Chat up owner Justin Ross if he’s buzzing around for rich stories of his past life in Washington, D.C., training under internationally acclaimed restaurateur José Andres and the renovation work that went into the recently relocated P38 space. If temps are in your favor, head to the back porch for some open-air imbibing, Mediterranean small plates and to people-watch Amtrak passengers below.

“Um, a cranberry vodka?”: Stop that. You’re past cranberry vodka and ending your drink orders with question marks. Try instead the Akrotiri Heat (Espolòn blanco tequila, piri piri syrup cinnamon berry, hibiscus soda, citrus), a multi-layered cocktail we’ve come to crave, and a P38 staple.

Grape expectations: Wine it up here. Ross, a certified advanced level sommelier, has assembled one of the most extensive and unique by-the-glass wine lists in town, which will allow you to explore your emerging adult palate without breaking the bank.

Alternatives: The Whiskey Jar, Oakhart Social

Your 30s: The Alley Light

This is the decade when you should enrich your cocktail game with sophistication and nuance. Duck into The Alley Light, a clandestine speakeasy nestled in an alley off the Downtown Mall, designated only by a lantern over the door. Dig the mysterious vibe as you ascend stairs to the cozy dark space and behold a wonder wall of obscure spirits. Nervous? Don’t sweat it, because affable AF barman Micah LeMon has mastered the art of baptizing newcomers to the craft. (This cat literally wrote the book on it—The Imbible.) Trouble can’t find you here, so sit back and submit to the spellbinding white noise of booze and ice dancing in the shaker and know that whatever he’s pouring will spike your night with intrigue.

Prime time: Show up pre-dinner rush (5ish) to score a stool and charming conversation with LeMon—it’s basically a TedX talk on mixology.   

Nosh away: Some of the best food in town is right here, and LeMon excels with pairings. Our go-to is foie gras brûlée with The Doctor’s Orders.

Alternatives: Lost Saint, Brasserie Saison, Mas

Your 40s: C&O

By your 40s, if you’re doing it right, you know what you like and don’t bother much with trends. This lands you in the cozy confines of the C&O’s bistro bar. Down a set of creaky stairs, this rustic barnwood-paneled room has harbored sophisticated imbibers for 42 years with a soulful charm achieved through slow, honest evolution. Permeating the scene is a secret society vibe that grips you immediately as you settle in. Behind the stick, clad in dope vintage gear, you’ll find some of the most thoughtful, kind booze-slingers in the business, who will happily guide you through a treasure trove wall of spirit options or their spot-on list of house cocktail creations. We are partial to the Jota Jota, a jolting riff on a drink near and dear to us, the Boulevardier. Whatever your poison, raise that glass to the next 40—yours and theirs—alongside friendly ghosts of patrons past in this landmark watering hole.

Discovery zone: Barman Anthony Restivo curates an eclectic playlist you’ll want to poach from.

Sneaky legit: Hiding out on the late-night menu (after 10pm) is one of the best burgers around for only $6.

Alternatives: Tavola’s Cicchetti Bar, Common House, The Coat Room

Pen+Knife is a blog that celebrates the bounty of food, drink and life in Charlottesville.

Categories
Living

Five Finds on Friday with Alicia Walsh-Noel

Alicia Walsh-Noel, Manager of Brasserie Saison. Photo courtesy subject

Today’s Five Finds on Friday come from Alicia Walsh-Noel, manager of Brasserie Saison, which celebrates Sunday each week with  an “Eggs Benefit” brunch from 11am-3pm with live jazz and specials from the bar. A portion of proceeds goes to a different charity each month, and this month it is The Charlottesville Free Clinic. Walsh-Noel’s picks:

1) Kao Soi at Monsoon Siam. “This dish is an ultra comforting curry noodle soup. It’s the perfect juxtaposition of flavor and texture: the sweet curry to the funky pickled cabbage and onions and then the slurpy egg noodles to the crunchy noodle garnish. There’s a reason it’s not available from their to-go-go location—you have to eat it in the restaurant for the full experience. I crave this whenever it’s cold outside or I have a cold or when Antarctica is cold.”

2) Peanut Butter Pie at The Pie Chest and an Almond Latte from Lone Light Coffee. “If you didn’t already know about this place, when you’re walking up Fourth Street, the aromas will lure you into their door. When you enter, it’s as if you’ve been transported into a quaint New England town—there aren’t many places in Charlottesville that can do that. Tucked within The Pie Chest is Lone Light Coffee, which makes incredible coffee drinks and their own almond milk in-house. The stuff is delicious! I seriously have a hard time getting coffee anywhere else. Rachel Pennington, the owner/baker of The Pie Chest, is incredibly talented. You can’t go wrong with any of her sweet or savory pies but I really dig the peanut butter because it’s a little of both. The real deal-sealer is that the crust is PERFECT every time.”

3) Commander Chicory Blue Cheese from Twenty Paces. “So apparently studies are saying that cheese addictions are a real thing. I always blamed it on my French heritage but now even my doctor is telling me to stop! Le sigh. I first had this cheese at Lampo. Then again at Lampo. Then again. And then…well, my husband runs the kitchen at Champion Taproom and he put it on…get this: CHICKEN WING TACOS. OMG. I die now. Anyway, it’s stinky and smoky and I would most likely have it as my last meal.”

4) Whatever Lumpia is on special at Champion Tap Room. “Speaking of my husband, Jon Bray has this move where he puts things into Filipino egg roll wrappers and then fries them. Need I say more? Okay, I’ll say more. His original has ground pork and dates that he serves with garlicky vinegar sauce. But lately he’s been getting a little wild, making cheeseburger lumpia for a kids event and a buffalo chicken version another time. This week, it sounds like he’s going with a more traditional pork and shrimp version that should be tasty. Maybe it’s cheating to put your own spouse on this list, but if this is about a memorable and emotional connection to food, Jon’s super-creative twists on Filipino classics are both seared into my memory and make me so happy!”

5) Oyster Mushrooms and Grits at Oakhart Social. “I couldn’t possibly write a Five Finds without mentioning Oakhart. This place is like home to me, and I’m stoked at the love they have received so quickly from the Charlottesville community. It’s rare to find a chef that can execute vegetable dishes with the skill that Tristan does and these mushrooms are one of my faves! They make a delicious star of the show with pickles, buttery grits and crispy, fried chickpeas. Follow that up with all the Fernets and hugs for a foolproof Oakhart evening.”

This article originally appeared on C-VILLE’s At the Table columnist C. Simon Davidson’s website, The Charlottesville 29, Read more Five Finds on Fridays here.

Categories
Living

The Villa diner will move to a new space next year

The Villa, which has served up diner favorites at the corner of Emmet Street and Ivy Road since 2005, will relocate to a new space next year. Photos by Paul Whicheloe

By Sam Padgett and Erin O’Hare

Last week, The Villa diner announced that after 12 years of serving classic fare such as eggs, sandwiches, pizza and more, the Emmet Street restaurant will move to a new location in Charlottesville next year.

The reason? The Villa sits on land owned by the University of Virginia, and both the diner and the Cavalier Inn will be demolished when the university begins to redevelop the parcel of land at the corner of Emmet Street and Ivy Road next summer (The Villa will remain open in its current spot until May).

Before owners Jennifer and Ken Beachley bought the diner in 2005, the building was home to the Expresso Italian Villa, a restaurant built after the previous building on the land, a biker bar called The Kettle, burned down.

The Beachleys attribute The Villa’s success to a few different things, including its employees, some of whom have been in the space longer than the Beachleys. “We couldn’t do it without them,” says Ken.

And then there’s The Villa’s loyal local clientele. “People say it’s like Cheers,” says Jennifer. “There are often times that I’ll look around the restaurant and recognize everyone in here.”

No word yet on where The Villa will move, but the Beachleys have promised to keep us in the loop, and we’ll fill you in when we know more.

Cooking comfort

Chef Bryan Sewell likes to craft a dish based on what tastes good. And with offerings like beef stew, cottage pie, po’ boys and fish and chips, Sewell’s pragmatic passion for food shines through on the menu at his new restaurant, Wayland’s Crossing Tavern.

Open since October at 1015 Heathercroft Circle in Crozet, Wayland’s Crossing Tavern occupies the spot that most recently housed Public Fish & Oyster West, where Sewell served as chef and worked through more than perfecting a fish and chips recipe: In July 2016, Sewell was diagnosed with Hodgkin Lymphoma, a cancer of the lymphatic system (part of the immune system). Rather than stay home, Sewell came to work every day and cooked during his chemotherapy treatments.

It’s not surprising that he found solace in the kitchen. Food “has always been something I was interested in,” says Sewell, who has worked in kitchens since he was 16, and learned to cook on the job. “I like being in the environment, having to be on your feet, talking with other people.”

The treatment “didn’t affect me as much as I think it should have,” says Sewell, but still, it wasn’t easy. “Chemo sucks,” he says. But cooking at Public West allowed him to put time and energy into thinking about something other than cancer, and he says it “was a great diversion.”

Wayland’s came about when Public owner Daniel Kaufman wanted to close Public West to focus on the restaurant’s other location at 513 W. Main St. in Charlottesville. Sewell and his business partner, Kim Dillon, were ready to step in.

There’s something special about sharing food with others, Sewell says, adding that it’s an easy thing to accomplish at this family-friendly pub, with its varied menu of seafood and meat dishes, plus a few vegetarian options and a kids’ menu.

And for Sewell, Wayland’s Crossing is “ a place to play” with food, to develop new dishes and see where things go. “I love when I can create something that I really enjoy myself that you can’t get anywhere else,” he says.

Always time for wine

Abe Schoener is widely regarded as one of the most original California winemakers alive. Dubbed “the wine world’s enigmatic cult hero” by website Food Republic, and a “fearless, risk-loving winemaker” by the New York Times, Schoener will be in Charlottesville on Tuesday, December 12, for a wine dinner in the subterranean rooms of Brasserie Saison on the Downtown Mall. Joining Schoener will be Claude Thibaut of Charlottesville’s Thibaut-Janisson Winery, and the folks from Washington, D.C.-based distilleries Green Hat Gin and Don Ciccio & Figli. Additionally, Brasserie Saison manager Will Curley says that Champion Brewing Company will debut a rare, previously unreleased wild-fermented boysenberry brown ale at the event. Tickets for the dinner are $125 plus tax and gratuity. Email brasseriesaison@gmail.com for more information.

“People say it’s like Cheers. There are often times that I’ll look around the restaurant and recognize everyone in here.” Jennifer Beachley

Categories
Living

LIVING Picks: November 15-21

Monticello. Photo courtesy Carol M. Highsmith Archive Library of Congress

FAMILY

Archaeology Lab sneak peek
Saturday, November 18

Children and their parents can see Monticello’s Archaeology Lab close up, work with artifacts and learn how archaeologists piece together history. $12 adults, $9 children ages 7-11, 10am-noon. Monticello, 931 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy. monticello. org

FOOD & DRINK

Heal C’ville Beer Garden and Street Fair
Saturday, November 18

Restaurants, breweries and retailers join together for a beer garden hosted by Brasserie Saison, an open-air street fair and holiday open houses at businesses. Proceeds benefit Unity C’ville, a nonprofit dedicated to racial and economic justice. No cover charge, 2-6pm, Downtown Mall.

NONPROFIT

Habitat for Humanity rake-a-thon
Saturday, November 18

The fifth annual rake-a-thon raises funds and awareness for affordable housing in the community. Proceeds go toward the building of Harmony Ridge, a mixed-income neighborhood featuring 14 homes, 10 of which are Habitat homes. 9:30am, various locations. 293-9066.

HEALTH & WELLNESS

Kelly Watt Memorial Race
Saturday, November 18

This race honors the life and accomplishments of Kelly Watt, who died in 2005 at age 18. Proceeds go to the Kelly Watt Memorial Scholarship Fund, awarded annually to an Albemarle High School athlete. Free for ages 5-12, 8:30am children’s half-mile run; $20-25, 9am two-mile race. Panorama Farms, 300 Panorama Rd., Earlysville. the wattey.net

Categories
Living

Chef Tyler Teass leaves Brasserie Saison

Chef Tyler Teass is leaving Brasserie Saison to spend more time with his family.

By Erin O’Hare and Sam Padgett

Eater’s digest

Chef Tyler Teass is leaving his post as head chef at Brasserie Saison in order to spend more time with his wife and young son. “We are parting with him as friends, and wish him all the best,” says the Downtown Mall restaurant’s general manager, Will Curley, adding that “we are incredibly lucky to be able to have his replacements already on staff, having Devin Murray and Mike Perry take over for [Teass] as our chefs.”

Before working in the Brasserie Saison kitchen, Murray was chef at The Whiskey Jar. “He has a great mind for updating classic Belgian fare with modern touches,” Curley says. And Perry “has worked for seemingly every great chef in town,” he says, including Tucker Yoder at Timbercreek Market’s Back 40, Angelo Vangelopolous at the Ivy Inn, Ben Thompson at the now-shuttered Rock Barn and John Haywood at the also-shuttered OXO; Perry also served as head of Harvest Moon Catering for some time.

MidiCi, The Neapolitan Pizza Company, a small, California-based chain, will open its Charlottesville franchise this month, with preview tastings on November 11 and 12. Like the restaurant’s Facebook or Instagram pages (@MidiCiCville) to earn a free margherita pizza this weekend, baked in one of two 7,000-pound wood-fire ovens imported from Italy.

As C-VILLE’s At The Table columnist C. Simon Davidson noted last month on his The Charlottesville 29 blog, Andrew Silver, who co-founded Zocalo with Ivan Rekosh and Peter Castiglione in 2002, is moving on to a job with Roots Natural Kitchen (which he and Rekosh helped launch in 2015). Davidson notes that for now, Silver’s focus will be on Roots’ new catering space in the former St. Maarten Cafe on Elliewood Avenue, a sort of blueprint for future Roots locations. Don’t worry, though, Zocalo and Rekosh aren’t going anywhere.

Cactus restaurant gets new space

Dónde está México? It isn’t south of the Rio Grande as you would assume. It also isn’t on Carlton Avenue in Woolen Mills, underneath the Aquí es México restaurant sign—at least not anymore. Aquí es México, known for its authentic Mexican and Central American flavor, is now Cactus restaurant. New owner Castulo Gaipan (who owns the small Cactus restaurant in the Sonoco gas station on Fifth Street) plans on crafting a different, but still authentic, menu soon. Additionally, Cactus will feature a bakery run by the previous owner of Aquí Es México, which will provide a large variety of Mexican breads that will be sold both in bulk and by the slice.

Recipe swap

Melissa Palombi’s new UVA-themed cookbook asks the provocative question that’s surely on everyone’s mind: Who’s in the kitchen? While the answer is usually assumed to be Dinah and an unspecified stranger, this new cookbook sheds light on the age-old mystery. In this case, the “Hoo” in the kitchen is an impressive collection of UVA folks from all over the country.

Featuring such personal recipes as local caterer Frank Smith’s famous butternut squash soup and jambalaya, as well as UVA’s vice provost for the arts and Virginia Film Festival executive director Jody Kielbasa’s pierogies with blueberry sauce, Hoos in the Kitchen proves to be an eclectic mix of dishes inspired by those who’ve worn orange and blue—personally and professionally. As is obligatory with anything UVA-related, there’s a Thomas Jefferson recipe…for hot chocolate. Palombi says she didn’t want to make just any old cookbook, but rather “a profile of faces and stories [that] people might not know from the UVA extended community.” The book is out this week, for those looking to have a more cavalier attitude about cooking.