C&O’s Retreat Farm lamb, Mochiko’s Spam musubi, and Passiflora’s tacos are all delicious reasons to order out. Staff photo
In an effort to support local dining establishments during the pandemic, our writers have been enjoying a variety of takeout meals from
some of their favorite restaurants. Contribute to this ongoing series
by sending your own delicious experiences to living@c-ville.com.
C&O
From rounds of Greyhounds to late-night grilled cheeses at the bar, C&O has been a staple in my Charlottesville dining repertoire for years. So when I walked up to the restaurant’s Dutch door labeled “takeout” to pick up my order, I felt an overwhelming sense of comfort. Through the open window, I could see the downstairs bar where, despite my longing, I wouldn’t be taking a seat—instead I’d be taking my cocktail home with me.
To accompany my Retreat Farm lamb entrée and side of Brussels sprouts, I opted for the Half Smoke—reposado tequila, mezcal, agave, and bitters. When unpacking my meal at home, I was pleasantly surprised to find a handwritten note, instructing me to “sip, enjoy, repeat,” after pouring the Half Smoke over ice and squeezing the twist, which was included in its own small container. The chef had also thrown in an additional serving of Brussels because they had extra, and they truly abide by the adage that the dish is best served hot. The Brussels were delicately prepared, while the lamb entrée came with three different cuts of meat, accented by a rosemary jus. But it was the personal touches that made this a special takeout experience, like visiting an old friend.—Desiré Moses
Mochiko Cville
I’d heard great things from many friends about Mochiko, the Hawaiian BBQ and deli located in The Yard at 5th Street Station, and was eager to try it. The ordering process was easy to navigate online directly from the Mochiko website. Pickup was quick and simple, at the exact time specified when ordering, with ample parking outside the restaurant.
I opted for the Mochiko Chicken over white rice with a side of ahi (tuna) poke. The signature chicken dish reminded me of what you might get at an Asian-style restaurant at a mall food court, but well-balanced flavors (chicken marinated in garlic, ginger, and soy then lightly breaded in rice flour and fried) and the fact that it was freshly prepared elevated the overall meal.
The highlight was the ahi poke. Small pieces of raw tuna marinated in sesame oil, soy sauce, and green onions evoked memories of a vacation in Hawaii. In the end, I was sorry that I had only ordered a small side portion. Next time I will order poke as my main dish and perhaps add another Hawaiian classic, the Spam musubi. While I won’t be sitting on a beach in Hawaii anytime soon, the classic flavors of Mochiko allow me to close my eyes and imagine that I am there.—Paul Ting
Passiflora
Passiflora, downtown’s newest dining spot, is set to be a C’ville favorite, thanks to its fresh flavors and hospitable service. I was delighted by its takeout options, and, aside from a lack of utensils in the to-go bag, I had a speedy and pleasant experience. The restaurant’s Baja-Mediterranean style is something we haven’t seen much of in Charlottesville, so deciding on just a few dishes from Passiflora’s menu is almost an exercise in futility. Nevertheless, I managed to assemble a delicious spread of fajitas, tacos, grilled pineapple, and fruity cider.
Everything delivered a refreshing brightness, along with an authentic mix of Latin spices. The piquant chimichurri particularly stood out, deftly bridging the gap between the sweet char of the grilled pineapple and the spice of the pickled cherry tomatoes.
Of course, the best way to enjoy great food is with great company, and my friend loved the chicken fajita, though it was slightly messy as a finger food. The pico de gallo, sour cream, and queso perfectly exemplified the Tex-Mex half of Passiflora’s diverse menu.
The portions were generous as well; one appetizer and the single Baja fish taco were a perfect light dinner for less than $20. And the beer-battered cod, topped with red cabbage, creamy queso asadero, rich aioli, and wrapped in a flour tortilla, was just dense enough to be satisfying without the heavy decadence that usually accompanies fried foods. Paired with El Chavo, a flavorsome mango-habanero cider, our dinner from Passiflora provided an impressive array of flavors that will definitely prompt a return.—Will Ham
Pizza has long been a favorite carry-out food, and that hasn't changed during quarantine. Lampo Neapolitan Pizzeria recently posted this photo of a dizzying pizza box tower and asked followers to guess how many. Photo courtesy Lampo Neapolitan Pizzeria
Stepping up to serve free meals
In these trying times for the restaurant industry, chef Harrison Keevil of Keevil & Keevil Grocery and Kitchen is using his talents to serve others. What originally started as a free lunch (about 20 meals each weekday), has expanded to include breakfast and dinner, and by April 13, Keevil is planning to offer 500 meals a day out of his kitchen. He’s currently funding it himself and taking donations at @keevil-kitchen. He’s also keeping it local by using as many area sources as possible—think Caromont cheese, Albemarle Baking Company pastry, and locally grown vegetables. If you know of someone in need, email keevilkitchen@gmail.com for delivery coordination.
Local bartenders get creative
With no bar to tend to at the moment, Tavola’s cicchetti bar team recently launched a Cocktail Quarantine video series. Episode one featured “quarantinis:” Husband and wife duo Rebecca Edwards and Steve Yang, both recently recognized as top 100 bartenders in the U.S., shook up their favorite variations on the martini. The best part? They’re taking requests. Go to @cocktailcoupleva on Instagram or tavola cicchetti bar on Facebook, and send a direct message or leave a comment with your cocktail of choice. Don’t forget to leave a virtual tip!
In the same spirit, The Local’s beverage director Alec Spidalieri developed a cocktail recipe book, which is available on a pay-what-you-can basis as a downloadable PDF. Visit his website for payment information and to download the content.
It’s five o’clock…on Zoom?
What would we do without Zoom and Facebook Live? In the time of social distancing, these platforms are allowing friends to connect and businesses to creatively reach their customers. The Wine Guild of Charlottesville and King Family Vineyards are hosting happy hours and virtual tastings, which allow people to come together while keeping their distance. Want to join the fun? Follow the Wine Guild and King Family on social media for upcoming virtual events.
Survival by takeout
Quarantine is for pizza lovers, or at least that’s the way it seems. Both Crozet Pizza and North Garden’s Dr. Ho’s Humble Pie have added additional phone lines to keep up with ordering demand. And a recent Instagram post from Lampo showed to-go pizza boxes piled high, and asked followers to guess the number of boxes shown. Those feeling fancy have takeout options too, with restaurants including The Farmhouse at Veritas and C&O now offering multi-course meals for pickup. Bet you never thought you’d enjoy steak chinoise in your pajamas, did you?
Mochiko Hawaiian Food and Deli at 5th Street Station is a staff favorite—and a unique spot in Charlottesville. Photo: Paul Whicheloe
The only thing better than working in the C-VILLE Weekly newsroom is leaving it to get a drink and a bite to eat. The paper’s writers and editors are just like you: Our pockets aren’t very deep but we love the city’s vibrant and diverse food scene. Here are a few of our favorite places and things.
Laura Longhine, editor
Recent find: El Salvadoran and Mexican food at the Marathon gas station on Rio Road (by Greenbrier Drive). Cheap, authentic, and delicious. Try the sopes al pastor or pupusas.
Cheap eats: Bodo’s!
Go-to spot: Bizou for lunch, Oakhart Social for dinner and drinks. For an ex-New Yorker, Oakhart’s dining room feels like home. The sausage pizza is reliably great, plus they usually have a lovely salad and a funky natural wine or two on the menu.
Splurge: C&O. Even after all this time, there’s nothing more satisfying than a slow-paced dinner here by the wood stove, with delicious cocktails and classics like the trout amandine and steak chinoise. Plus, I love a restaurant that still gives you a bread basket.
Go-to brew: Mosaic Pale Ale at Random Row is my absolute favorite beer in town.
As the name suggests, the la familia chicken dinner is a family favorite at Al Carbon. Photo: Tom McGovern
Family meal: La familia chicken dinner to go from Al Carbon—a whole bird plus three sides and two salsas for $21.50. We also love to get a table at Milan—friendly service, a kids menu, and naan to keep everyone happy.
Food with friends: Beer Run—get the nachos!
Guilty pleasure: The old-fashioned layer cake at MarieBette; almost too pretty to eat.
Local place I’m dying to try: Comal, the new Mexican place in Belmont.
Out-of-town restaurant: Una Pizza Napoletana, in NYC. Take the Amtrak. It’s worth it.
Max March, editorial designer
Recent find: Lately, I’ve been enjoying cocktails with bitter aperitifs like Campari and Aperol. I like the interplay of sweet and bitter of the 23 Skidoo at Brasserie Saison. My go-to these days is a boulevardier—a bourbon drink with Campari—at the cicchetti bar at Tavola.
Best meal ever: Restaurant Week 2014, at C&O. This wonderful dish stands out in my memory: braised beef and potato gnocchi and some kind of wine sauce (with mushrooms, I think). Along with the soft lighting and good friends around a long table, eating a stick-to-your-ribs meal like that really made a regular weekend meal feel like a holiday.
Cheap eats: Something needs to be said about Maya’s $12 menu on Tuesday. Maya serves that classic nouveau-Southern cuisine that is so satisfying, and a good portion of the menu is pretty affordable that night.
Splurge: Our special-occasion spot is Tavola. The food is always amazing. I often end up ordering too much because there are so many must-haves. Gotta have the mussels. Burrata is non-negotiable. More wine? Yes, please. Carbonara. Bolognese. They serve their steak with agrodolce and gorgonzola that provides this sweet/tangy/funky combo you won’t find anywhere else. Beet risotto equals best risotto. Oh yeah, they have an amazing cocktail bar in the back! Just…maybe bring friends and share to help out your wallet.
Go-to bar: Champion Brewery. Location is perfect for me. People are great. Love the beer (some of my favorites in town). They have really solid bar food (J.M. Stock hot dogs, burgers, pretzels with beer cheese), and I’d put their nachos up against Beer Run’s any day (fight me). I also love that on any given day you might stop by to find some off-the-wall event happening. Ballet on the patio. An astronomy lesson from a UVA prof. Game nights. My fave is Tuesday night, when “Jeopardy!” is on, they turn off the music and turn up Trebek and the whole bar shouts out answers (questions) together. There aren’t a lot of bars in town that create an atmosphere of easy community like this one does.
Food with friends: This is where Mas really shines for me. My tip is to order a large sangria and quickly realize you’re all a little tipsier than you thought you’d be. Go-to dishes are the roasted tomatoes, and carne asada. Obviously you’ve got to order tapas staples like papas bravas and bacon-wrapped dates. Try the boquerones if you’re nasty (I am).
Brunch: Most underrated brunch in town is Miller’s. Chicken & waffles, a great biscuit and gravy, eggs benny, with all the boozy breakfast cocktails you could want. And it doesn’t break the bank.
Joe Bargmann, living/special publications editor
Recent find: Early Mountain Vineyards has a new chef and a carefully curated menu with a focus on local ingredients—delicious stuff, especially the pork
belly with shredded red cabbage. Also, the vineyard setting in the rolling hills of Madison is beautiful.
Go-to bar: Jack Brown’s Beer & Burgers. My girlfriend objects because of the gratuitous and sexist chandelier of bras (and I don’t disagree with her), but I like the smashburgers, dive-bar vibe, and friendly staff.
Late night: Miller’s on the Downtown Mall. Dark-wood saloon atmosphere, dim lighting, and amazing mac ‘n’ cheese (finished in a skillet and served folded-over, like an omelet, with a crisp shell).
Guilty pleasure: A good cut of beef from J.M. Stock. Pricey, for sure, but always worth it.
Happy hour: Tilman’s. Good deals and a sweet little tasting menu. I love the bruschetta with melted brie, prosciutto, and fig preserves.
Local place I’m dying to try: Prime 109, if my GoFundMe reaches its goal.
Out-of-town restaurant: En Su Boca, in Richmond. Killer margaritas and modern Tex-Mex food in a funky space where everyone has at least one tattoo.
Susan Sorensen, copy editor
Cheap eats: The Villa Diner. Breakfast is served until 4pm, portions are generous (and tasty), and nobody makes a better toasted pecan waffle (for $6.95, people!).
Go-to spot: Citizen Burger Bar for sweet potato fries and the “red” vegan burger. I know, I know: Who in the hell eats vegetarian at CBB?! I do—and it’s delicious.
Splurge: The Farmhouse at Veritas. The four-course menu (with wine pairings) changes every week, and costs $85 (plus tax and tip) per person.
Go-to bar: The Timberwood Grill. It’s pretty much in our Earlysville backyard, the beer menu is immense and well-curated, and it’s a swell place to watch UVA sports surrounded by lots of other Hoos fans.
Brunch: Boylan Heights on the Corner. Our daughter’s a UVA second-year, and if we promise to pay for brunch (after noon, of course!) for her and her three adorable roommates, we get proof of life every couple months or so.
Late night: The Whiskey Jar. A mess of sides—mac ‘n’ cheese, corn bread, pimento cheese, ham biscuits, French fries—is perfect for soaking up a long night’s worth of alcohol. Last call is at 2 a.m. on weekends.
Guilty pleasure: Four scoops (dulce de leche, hazelnut, gianduia, and milk and cherry) from Splendora’s.
Happy hour: Rapture. Cheap cabernet, right across from our office on the Downtown Mall. ’Nuff said.
Out-of-town restaurant: Founding Farmers in Washington, D.C. The food’s terrific (try the chicken and waffles or the chicken pot pie),
and most of it comes from a bunch of family farms in North Dakota.
Erin O’Hare, arts reporter
Cheap eats: Vita Nova Pizza’s bell pepper and onion slice is hands-down the best bang for my four bucks.
Go-to spot: Twisted Branch Tea Bazaar—specifically, for the Goatherder plate, and for the amazing and delicious variety of teas hot and cold. Also, the milkshakes.
Brunch: Bluegrass Grill, where my favorite is the Hungry Norman, the perfect savory-sweet breakfast plate. When I have visitors in town on a weekday, I always take them here, because it’s the only time there’s no wait for a table.
Late night: C&O, because ’round midnight is the best time to nom a gooey grilled cheese soaked in tomato soup, a belly filler for $10.
Out-of-town restaurant: Kuba Kuba in Richmond! The paella options and the tres leches cake are so delicious, I don’t even know what to say about them except that you should go get them, but if you’re in my way, I’ll probably try to cut you in line.
Matt Weyrich, news reporter
Recent find (food): The Nook. The All The Way breakfast with a couple pieces of toast has quickly become my go-to.
Recent find (drink): South Street Brewery. The mystery beer that doesn’t yet have a name is fantastic and was easily the highlight of the flight I tasted.
Cheap eats: Brazos Tacos. If I had to have one meal item every day for the rest of my life, it just might be Brazos La Tia taco (picadillo beef, mashed potatoes, corn pico, white onion, queso fresco, and cilantro).
Go-to spot: Asado Wing and Taco Company. I love the wings and always seem to have good interactions with other people sitting at the bar.
Go-to bar: Draft Taproom. Sixty taps and more than a dozen TVs make for an awesome combination if you’re looking to watch sports with a beer in your hand all night.
Go-to brew: Three Notch’d. I pass by it on my way home from work every day, and sometimes I just can’t help myself.
Food with friends: The Whiskey Jar. I’m a big burger guy and my favorite in Charlottesville so far is definitely the Crunch Burger.
Brunch: Bodo’s. I’ve been to Bodo’s 19 times since I started at C-VILLE Weekly in June, and I have absolutely no shame in admitting it.
Late night: Jack Brown’s Beer & Burgers. I went to college at JMU and the vibe is exactly like the location in Harrisonburg, so it feels like home to me.
Happy hour: Random Row. You can’t beat the $2 happy hour on Thursdays.
Out-of-town restaurant: O’Neill’s Grill in Harrisonburg. I’m not much
of a dessert guy, but I cannot go there without having the cookie skillet.
Brielle Entzminger, news reporter
Recent find (food): Mochiko Hawaiian Food and Deli. It just opened at 5th Street Station.
Recent find (drink): The amazing sweet wines at Barboursville Vineyards.
Cheap eats: Any bowl at Poke Sushi Bowl with the coconut cream sauce.
Splurge: Sakura Japanese Steakhouse, about $60-70 with tip for two people.
Go-to bar: Skybar because of its nice view of the city.
Brunch: The Shebeen. Amazing mimosas and moderately priced South African food.
Happy hour: Guadalajara’s $7 jumbo margaritas on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Out-of-town restaurant: Bottoms Up Pizza, in Richmond. Pizzas are huge, thick, delicious, and come in all kinds of unique combinations.
It’s been nearly a decade since Virginia made it legal for folks to bring their own vino to restaurants. The Corkage Bill of 2011 effectively gives diners more wines to choose from, and in some cases, a less expensive option to ordering from a restaurant’s list. “We have to provide value, whatever the customer wants,” says Brian Helleberg, owner of Fleurie and Petit Pois.
Most local restaurants offer corkage for $10 to $35. For the fee, diners’ bottles are treated with the same care as in-house wines —decanted, poured, and served in proper stemware. Most restaurants also prefer to be notified by diners before they show up with their own bottles. In fact, it’s proper etiquette (just like tipping as if you’d bought the wine in-house is), so call ahead, and you’ll receive a warm welcome.
“It’s great when someone has a special wine,” Helleberg says. “It’s flattering to the restaurant.”
Where to bring your own
C&O Restaurant
Want to BYO without having to CYA? C&O charges a flat fee and “passes no judgment,” catering manager Cristelle Koerper says. That means everything’s fair game, from non-vintage plonk to ’98 Petrus.
Cost: $25, no restrictions or discounts
515 E. Water St. 971-7044,
candorestaurant.com
Ivy Inn
About four or five Ivy Inn customers bring their own bottles of wine per week, a spokesperson says. And it’s usually a special wine for a special occasion—exactly what the Ivy Inn is known for.
Cost: $25, no restrictions or discounts
2244 Old Ivy Rd., 977-1222,
ivyinn restaurant.com
Fleurie
What’s the best wine to bring out to dinner? That tasty little number you bought while touring local vineyards. “If it’s a local winery, it’s nice to have that relationship,” Helleberg says.”We get people in who’ve been sent from a wine tasting to Fleurie.”
Cost: $25 for Virginia wines; $35 for others
108 Third St. NE, 971-7800,
fleurierestaurant.com
Mangione’s on Main
Regulars at Mangione’s predecessor Bella’s were long known to carry in wine for the restaurant’s low corkage fee of $15. The owners who took over the space in January have stuck with the policy.
Cost: $15, no restrictions or discounts
707 W. Main St., 327-4833,
mangionesonmain.com
The Whiskey Jar
As with most things, The Whiskey Jar keeps it unpretentious when it comes to corkage. It offers the least expensive fee in town (matched only by Bebedero). There’s occasionally some confusion about the corkage fee at the Jar, but tell ’em owner Will Richey himself confirmed it’s $10.
Cost: $10, free for Wine Guild of Charlottesville members
For generations, authorities have buried the lede when warning us about alcohol killing brain cells. Omitted from the tired mantra is the truth that some of our deepest seeds of wisdom are sewn at watering holes and colored by booze. Bars are like classrooms, just more practical, and the life lessons enduring. No matter our demographic, we’re still learning in our 20s, 30s and 40s from a barstool perch. Thankfully, the local scene is abundant with venues for every age bracket. Let’s bar crawl through a few of our favorite decade-appropriate spots.
Your 20s: Parallel 38
Get your first round at Parallel 38 on West Main Street—a reasonable distance from the Corner and college days (because you’re an #adult now), while still close enough for security blanket purposes. Your new booze cravings are thoughtful cocktails with carefully selected ingredients that your mom’s herb garden would approve of. The downstairs bar at Parallel is perfectly low-lit, has an intimate, sophisticated NYC vibe and is ideal for drinks with the gals or a first post-grad Bumble date. Chat up owner Justin Ross if he’s buzzing around for rich stories of his past life in Washington, D.C., training under internationally acclaimed restaurateur José Andres and the renovation work that went into the recently relocated P38 space. If temps are in your favor, head to the back porch for some open-air imbibing, Mediterranean small plates and to people-watch Amtrak passengers below.
“Um, a cranberry vodka?”: Stop that. You’re past cranberry vodka and ending your drink orders with question marks. Try instead the Akrotiri Heat (Espolòn blanco tequila, piri piri syrup cinnamon berry, hibiscus soda, citrus), a multi-layered cocktail we’ve come to crave, and a P38 staple.
Grape expectations: Wine it up here. Ross, a certified advanced level sommelier, has assembled one of the most extensive and unique by-the-glass wine lists in town, which will allow you to explore your emerging adult palate without breaking the bank.
Alternatives: The Whiskey Jar, Oakhart Social
Your 30s: The Alley Light
This is the decade when you should enrich your cocktail game with sophistication and nuance. Duck into The Alley Light, a clandestine speakeasy nestled in an alley off the Downtown Mall, designated only by a lantern over the door. Dig the mysterious vibe as you ascend stairs to the cozy dark space and behold a wonder wall of obscure spirits. Nervous? Don’t sweat it, because affable AF barman Micah LeMon has mastered the art of baptizing newcomers to the craft. (This cat literally wrote the book on it—The Imbible.) Trouble can’t find you here, so sit back and submit to the spellbinding white noise of booze and ice dancing in the shaker and know that whatever he’s pouring will spike your night with intrigue.
Prime time: Show up pre-dinner rush (5ish) to score a stool and charming conversation with LeMon—it’s basically a TedX talk on mixology.
Nosh away: Some of the best food in town is right here, and LeMon excels with pairings. Our go-to is foie gras brûlée with The Doctor’s Orders.
Alternatives: Lost Saint, Brasserie Saison, Mas
Your 40s: C&O
By your 40s, if you’re doing it right, you know what you like and don’t bother much with trends. This lands you in the cozy confines of the C&O’s bistro bar. Down a set of creaky stairs, this rustic barnwood-paneled room has harbored sophisticated imbibers for 42 years with a soulful charm achieved through slow, honest evolution. Permeating the scene is a secret society vibe that grips you immediately as you settle in. Behind the stick, clad in dope vintage gear, you’ll find some of the most thoughtful, kind booze-slingers in the business, who will happily guide you through a treasure trove wall of spirit options or their spot-on list of house cocktail creations. We are partial to the Jota Jota, a jolting riff on a drink near and dear to us, the Boulevardier. Whatever your poison, raise that glass to the next 40—yours and theirs—alongside friendly ghosts of patrons past in this landmark watering hole.
Discovery zone: Barman Anthony Restivo curates an eclectic playlist you’ll want to poach from.
Sneaky legit: Hiding out on the late-night menu (after 10pm) is one of the best burgers around for only $6.
Alternatives: Tavola’s Cicchetti Bar, Common House, The Coat Room
Pen+Knife is a blog that celebrates the bounty of food, drink and life in Charlottesville.
Ashley Williams, the general manager and marketing director at Water Street restaurant, says the partial closing of the road with the same name has been bad for business. Rammelkamp Foto
Anyone attempting to drive east down Water Street over the past couple weeks has noticed a large traffic sign intercepting her mission—and some business owners in that area aren’t happy about it.
Construction of a seven-unit mixed-use building at 550 E. Water St. (called 550 Water Street) will cause intermittent lane closure for the next nine months, according to city spokesperson Miriam Dickler.
“It’s difficult to quantify exactly how much the partial closing has impacted our business, but I can definitely say it is significant,” says Ashley Williams, the general manager and marketing director at Water Street, the eatery located at 117 Fifth St. SE in the former Tempo space, which has only been open since the end of September.
There have been several instances when customers have wanted to eat at her restaurant for dinner, she says, but they were driving in from the west on Water Street or tried to make a left-hand turn after crossing over the Downtown Mall on Fourth Street, and were not able to do so.
“It is far from an easy one-block detour, and I have talked to many potential diners who have said that they ended up giving up because they got turned around or got stuck in traffic and just decided to go somewhere else,” she says.
A small parking lot once leased by C&O Restaurant, which sold to 550 Water Street developers for more than $1 million, is also blocked by the closure.
“When Dave [Simpson] sold me the restaurant, he said that parking lot could go at any time,” C&O chef and proprietor Dean Maupin says. “Of course, that day came and went, but honestly it has not affected anything at all.”
Though it has been more inconvenient for patrons, Maupin says “everyone seems to be taking it in stride and we really appreciate that.”
As a way around the detour, he says his crew has started offering complimentary valet service to guests on Friday and Saturday evenings.
“I’m just thankful the construction noise ends at 5 every day,” he says.
Dickler says the city is working on a plan to open the street to two-way traffic once the current utility work in the roadway is complete, which should happen on February 3. After that, the detour will only be in effect during the day, and two-way traffic will resume on nights and weekends. This will last for about four weeks.
At the beginning of March, the concrete barriers will return, but two-way traffic will be maintained by using the loading and valet parking spaces along Water Street. Two valet spaces will be moved one block down on Water Street, and two will move around the corner on Fifth Street. There will be one additional detour toward the end of the project to install gas to the new building and repave the roadway.
“Unfortunately, road projects often come with unavoidable impacts to businesses and property owners,” says Dickler. “Our staff works with those owners and the project team to mitigate those impacts as much as possible.”
Though the road closure is temporary, one business owner says blocked views of the mountains and Charlottesville favorites such as the Pink Warehouse are forever.
Nora Ayala, the owner of Low—vintage clothing, records and antiques, says before she moved into her Fifth Street location in 2010, she knew 550 Water Street would be built, but “I really, really dislike that every open space on Water Street is going to be gone,” she says. “It’ll be so cold.”
This isn’t the only inconvenience downtown visitors and workers can expect on Water Street, and perhaps it foreshadows the construction and detours stemming from West2nd, the fleet of luxury condos going in at the current City Market site later this year. Stay tuned.
Homegrown chef Dean Maupin, who took over the C&O Restaurant last year from the late Dave Simpson, said “my role in it all is to simply guide it onward, taking care of the cast.” Photo by Andrea Hubbell
If a Major League Baseball pundit were to assess Charlottesville’s roster of chefs, he might compare it to one of those baseball franchises built on players acquired from other teams. Most of Charlottesville’s top restaurants, it seems, are run by chefs who came here from somewhere else.
Then there is Dean Maupin. A native of Crozet and a longtime area resident, Maupin’s local roots run deep. It is those roots, in my view, that made Maupin the ideal person—perhaps the only person—to take over the C&O, the legendary Charlottesville restaurant he acquired last year.
Sure, Maupin’s culinary credentials are impeccable: executive chef of Fossett’s Restaurant at Keswick Hall, which Condé Nast ranked the best hotel in North America for food; executive chef of Clifton Inn, one of just 50 American restaurants to earn Relais & Chateaux status; and, for a short time, sous chef of the hugely influential but now closed Metropolitain in downtown Charlottesville.
But, culinary talent aside, what made Maupin the perfect torch bearer of the restaurant at the heart of Charlottesville dining is that he is homegrown—just like the man who handed him the torch, the late Dave Simpson, who died earlier this year. Looking back now, it seems hard to imagine the transition occurring any other way. Dave Simpson ran the C&O for nearly three decades. And, to run it for the next several decades, Simpson hand-picked a homegrown chef who first worked there as a line cook in 1995.
A recent dinner at the C&O with my wife confirmed the prudence of Simpson’s decision. We had perfect company: Pat Simpson, who was married to Dave for 25 years, and Adam Frazier, their nephew, who worked at the restaurant for several years before opening The Local in 2008. Maupin and his staff showcased the C&O’s present excellence, while Simpson and Frazier regaled us with stories of its past.
Maupin promised no major changes when he took over the C&O. From his years in Charlottesville, he gained the wisdom to tread carefully with a legend in his hands. Still, like any lifelong chef, Maupin has his own vision, and has allowed himself some tweaks.
So, our dinner blended C&O classics with Maupin’s innovations. Pat Simpson began with C&O’s famous vegetable soup, which for years has fed weary, post-shift Charlottesville chefs seeking refuge at the bar. “As good as ever,” she said.My request that the kitchen order for me was rewarded with a bowl of ricotta gnocchi with tender, braised lamb from Retreat Farm, in a rosemary-laced sauce, topped with shavings of Everona cheese.
For entrées, my wife and Frazier both chose steak Chinoise, a Dave Simpson creation on the menu since the 1970s. “It’s pure C&O,” Maupin said.Steak marinated in ginger, garlic, tamari, oil and black pepper, is seared in a cast iron skillet, and served in a reduced pan sauce of tamari, cream, ginger and scallions. Though originally made with flank steak, Maupin uses tenderloin, elevating the famous dish on even “more of a pedestal,” he said.
My entrée was an intoxicating bouillabaisse. “The key is the broth,” said Maupin of the labor-intensive lobster stock, simmered for hours with fennel, leeks, onion, tarragon, bay leaves, peppercorns and tomato paste. After several more steps (and hours), you have an extraordinary stew of monkfish, scallops and mussels. I was glad to have heeded our server’s advice to stir in the dollop of saffron garlic rouille.
Two common themes ran through the stories of C&O’s past: family and home. “As soon as you enter, it feels like home,” said Simpson, where “familiarity” meets “conviviality.” Maupin later echoed the sentiment. From the first time he worked at the C&O, he said, “it just felt like you were part of a family.” In fact, Maupin credits the staff as the key to the restaurant’s identity. “Interesting, sweet, smart and genuine people make this place what it is,” he said.
The family theme permeated our desserts as well, which all bear the stamp of Maupin’s wife Erin, a brilliant pastry chef who retired to raise their three children. Most notable is the sticky toffee pudding that first won her raves at Clifton Inn, where she once worked with Maupin.Another family standout, and also a Clifton holdover, is the Coupe Ellery—a grown-up sundae named after their 6-year-old daughter, with house-churned vanilla ice cream, whipped white chocolate, toasted almonds, Belgian chocolate sauce and raspberries. Our own 6-year-old daughter would love this, my wife and I agreed, as we cleaned the bowl.
Few restaurants mean more to Charlottesville than the C&O. What a special gift Maupin has given us by sustaining a place that, as Pat Simpson puts it, is the “flagship restaurant of Charlottesville.”
“The C&O has a sense of place in the community and downtown,” said Maupin. “My role in it all is to simply guide it onward, taking care of the cast.”
