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Living

The Yard food hall set to open in May

By Sam Padgett and Erin O’Hare

The Yard food hall at 5th Street Station is gearing up to open in May, in the building next to Alamo Drafthouse Cinema. Jeff Garrison, the project’s lead, says he wanted to “create an active community-engaged area…a great area to hang out.” And so The Yard put extra emphasis on seating, including a shaded outdoor patio and complimentary WiFi. Additionally, if Garrison can obtain a coveted festival liquor license for the space, drinks can be openly carried between the businesses, which is beneficial because The Yard could also serve as an entertainment venue. As for the food half of the hall, The Yard already has leases from Basil Mediterranean Bistro & Wine Bar, Extreme Pizza and Chim, an Asian street food restaurant. While the first restaurants are going to be opening this May, The Yard will continue to add more options.

Fresh start

Back in December, we reported that The Villa Diner would be moving to a new location in town, as its current home at 129 Emmet St. N will soon be demolished when the University of Virginia begins to develop the land at the corner of Emmet Street and Ivy Road later this year.

Now we can report that The Villa’s moving down the road, into the former location of the Royal Indian Restaurant at 1250 Emmet St. N, adjacent to the new Zaxby’s. Villa Diner co-owner Jenifer Beachley describes the relocation as “terrifyingly exciting.” She says that the same atmosphere and service that customers have come to expect at The Villa will move with the business, and there will be a few additions to the menu. The Villa’s final day in its current location will be Memorial Day, and the Beachleys expect the new location to open in June.

Best of the South

In Southern Living magazine’s 2018 Best of the South poll, Charlottesville was named the eighth best food town in the region (food cities are in a different category). In that same poll, Blue Mountain Brewery in Afton was named the best brewery in Virginia.

And in Garden & Gun magazine’s Southern Craft Brewery bracket, Hardywood Park Craft Brewery, whose flagship is in Richmond but operates a pilot brewery and taproom in Charlottesville, made it to the final matchup out of a field of 32 breweries, to take on Scofflaw Brewing Company of Atlanta for the championship. Hardywood was named the bracket winner on Tuesday.

Losing a gem

Pearl’s Bake Shoppe, known around town for its vegan cupcake offerings, among other sweet treats, closed its Charlottesville location on March 24. According to information posted to the bakery’s Facebook page, the owners have chosen to focus attention on their Richmond location instead.

Another closing

Water Street Restaurant—or, chef Brice Cunningham’s rebranded Tempo—closed after service on March 31. The eatery, which served upscale casual French and American cuisine, opened in September 2016.

Brunch game just got stronger

In a March 12 Facebook post, Kung Fu Tea Charlottesville at 1001 W. Main St. announced that it will soon begin serving dim sum (and judging by the hundreds of comments and shares on the post, folks are excited about it). For those unfamiliar with dim sum, it’s a style of Chinese (usually Cantonese) cuisine served with tea for a brunch-type meal. The bite-sized portions of food—think steamed buns, steamed vegetables, slow-roasted meats, congee soups and even dessert dim sum such as egg tarts—are served on small plates or nestled inside little steam baskets.

Quality time

In the last few weeks, a Facebook page called Quality Pie has popped up and begun sharing photos of baked goods, as well as both interior and exterior shots of the former Spudnuts donut shop on Avon Street in Belmont. It appears as though the bakery is the work of former Mas Tapas chef Tomas Rahal.

Categories
Living

Kebabish sizzles with fusion dishes

By Erin O’Hare and Sam Padgett

Kebabish Sizzling and Fire Grille, a new restaurant that fuses Turkish, Indian, Nepali and Mediterranean cuisines, is now open at 111 W. Water St. downtown, in the space most recently occupied by Downtown Thai.

The restaurant, owned by Uzzwal Khadka (who also owns Taste of India located at 310 E. Main St. on the Downtown Mall), promises fast, fresh, authentic food. Kebabish offers a wide range of dishes, including chicken, lamb and vegetable gyros (a gyro is a dish made from meat cooked on a vertical rotisserie and sliced and wrapped in pita with tomato, onion and tzatziki sauce); mo-mo, a spiced chicken dumpling that’s a popular street food in Tibet and Nepal; and shawarma, curry dishes, churrascaria kebabs and filets, fried noodles, fried rices and more. There’s also the “lovely meat ball” appetizer, a dish of chicken or lamb that, according to a member of our art department, is “kind of like a falafel, but with meat in it.”

All of Kebabish’s food, from the naan breads to the sauces, are made in-house. Additionally, Khadka says the restaurant has bought a lot of its fruit and vegetables from the City Market in an effort to ensure freshness while simultaneously supporting other local businesses.

Stout’s honor

When Hardywood Park Craft Brewery’s Gingerbread Stout beer burst onto the scene in November 2011, it received a rare perfect 100 score from BeerAdvocate magazine, which in 2012 declared the spiced stout “freagin’ Christmas in a bottle.” The brew also received bronze in the 2012 World Beer Cup herb and spice category. And earlier this month, six years after its initial release, The Beer Connoisseur named GBS the No. 1 Christmas and Holiday Beer. Made with baby ginger from Casselmonte Farm and wildflower honey from Bearer Farms, Hardywood Gingerbread Stout is the first commercially brewed gingerbread stout. Hardywood has brewed eight different GBS variants for the 2017 holiday season—the original GBS, bourbon barrel, Christmas Morning and Kentucky Christmas Morning, plus four found only at Hardywood breweries: rum barrel, apple brandy barrel, rye whiskey barrel and double barrel.

Eater’s digest

Every Wednesday from 4pm to midnight at Graduate Charlottesville’s Heirloom Rooftop and Bar, chef Frank Paris dishes out ramen specials. Paris is the former chef and owner of Miso Sweet Ramen + Donut Shop, which closed its doors on the Downtown Mall earlier this year. “I definitely miss Miso Sweet and it was tough to close,” says Paris. “We made a lot of friends and fans in the short two years [Miso Sweet was open], and as we were closing, we were constantly asked if we were going to do ramen at our new location. When we were brainstorming ideas for Heirloom, ramen was a no-brainer. It’s the perfect weather for it, and it gives me a chance to reconnect with fans of Miso Sweet and hopefully make some new fans here at Heirloom.”

CAVA, a fast-casual Mediterranean chain restaurant, will open a Charlottesville location in summer 2018. It’s one of two restaurants planned for Emmet Street Station. Located at 1200 Emmet Street N. (across from the Barracks Road Shopping Center, in the empty lot that once held an Exxon station), Emmet Street Station is currently under construction.

Downtown Mall denizens may have noticed that the popular Catch the Chef food cart took a recent hiatus from the Third Street SE/Downtown Mall junction (it was back on Monday), and that’s because Catch the Chef has grown into full-fledged food truck zipping to a different location daily. Check the truck’s Facebook page for more info.

Categories
Living

Local restaurant openings and closings in February

In February, two restaurants/breweries opened their doors: Carpe Café and Hardywood Park Craft Brewery.


Categories
Living

Hardywood’s brewers offer taste of creativity

Richmond-based Hardywood Park Craft Brewery has opened a satellite tasting room and brewery on West Main Street, becoming the fifth brewery within Charlottesville city limits. At its grand opening last Saturday, 15 beers were on tap. The unseasonably warm afternoon brought out such a large crowd that five taps were off the list by 2pm. The taproom serves as a brewers’ playground and research center, in which varying small batches are brewed and the most popular recipes will be considered for wider production.

Hardywood Park Craft Brewery held its grand opening for the Charlottesville taproom Saturday, February 18.
Hardywood Park Craft Brewery held its grand opening for the Charlottesville taproom Saturday, February 18. Photo by Eze Amos

Head brewer Kevin Storm is especially proud of their new IPA, Tropication. He designed Tropication to deliberately depart from the wave of hop-heavy IPAs that represent the lion’s share of the craft beer market.

“I beat up IPAs,” Storm says. “I drank them until my palate was just roasted. …I wanted to make something that I knew I would appreciate. Tropication, we did all local hops. …You’ve got massive amounts of late-addition hops, and it’s dry-hopped with mosaic and nelson sauvin.”

Those mosaic and nelson sauvin hops bear most of the responsibility for turning the beer in my hand into something that tasted like it had come out of a juicer. Nelson sauvin is a new hop variety from New Zealand, so-named for a flavor profile similar to a sauvignon blanc grape.

Hardywood’s gingerbread stout nails the often-elusive sweet spot between making a flavored stout that is too gimmicky for its own good and something that one would actually want to drink an entire pint of. The ginger is mild, letting the round notes of the malt and hops speak for themselves. The beer is good on its own, but I found myself fantasizing about pouring it over ice cream.

“GBS has ginger, cinnamon, honey, all local to Richmond,” Storm says. “We get this gorgeous baby ginger every year. We have two [Richmond] farmers who supply us with that.”

The gingerbread stout also serves as a basis for other small batches of specialty beers. A variation on GBS with coffee added was aptly titled Kentucky Christmas morning (it was among the beers that sold out on Saturday and it may not be made again anytime soon).

Both the Gingerbread Stout and Virgina Pale Ale serve as a basis for variations of small-batch specialty beers, such as a mango-infused VIPA or the coffee-infused Kentucky Christmas stout. Photo by Eze Amos
Both the Gingerbread Stout and Virgina Pale Ale serve as a basis for variations of small-batch specialty beers, such as a mango-infused VIPA or the coffee-infused Kentucky Christmas stout. Photo by Eze Amos

A flagship of Hardywood’s draft lineup is its Virginia Pale Ale, or VIPA. But don’t let the name fool you. While the ingredients are largely sourced from within the state, this beer is definitely a pale ale rather than an IPA. Super smooth and perfect for a warm spring day; less hoppy and bitter than an IPA. This is an ale that IPA-lovers and lager drinkers may be able to agree on.

VIPA’s hops are Virginia grown, as is the two-row barley from Heathsville, which was malted in Sperryville.

Like the gingerbread stout, Hardywood’s brewers like to play with VIPA and add other ingredients for one-off batches. A mango-infused variety was on tap for opening day, as was a pineapple edition. Both will certainly be gone by the time this article is published but watch for other creative uses of VIPA’s sparse canvas of flavor profile.


Anna Warneke, a brewer from Germany completing a three-month internship, says she was hesitant at first to experiment with unique ingredients, because of the strict German beer purity laws. Photo by Eze Amos
Anna Warneke, a brewer from Germany completing a three-month internship, says she was hesitant at first to experiment with unique ingredients, because of the strict German beer purity laws. Photo by Eze Amos

Maker’s mark

Anna Warneke, a young brewer visiting from Germany for a three-month internship, has been working with Kevin Storm and learning about America’s craft beer culture, which is very different from the staunch traditionalist approach to making beer in her country. For more than 500 years, Germany has had a body of law collectively referred to as the Reinheitsgebot, or beer purity law. It effectively blocks German brewers from using unusual ingredients.

“I’m really excited to try stuff beyond the purity law,” Warneke says. “It was really weird for me in the beginning, putting sugar in a kettle. I can see it’s more creative. More fun.”

“You should have seen her face the first time we used rice hulls,” Storm says.

“Or when I had to put raspberry puree in a tank,” Warneke says. “I’m like, really? …I come from a traditional pils brewery built in the 1800s, and we have our recipe and we aren’t creative at all.”

Warneke was given the opportunity to design a beer of her own for Hardywood.

“I wanted my first beer to be a German style, but I don’t want to go with a pils or whatever, because you’ve all had it,” Warneke says. “We did a pilot batch, a weizenbock. Basically a weizen beer (brewed using malted wheat as well as barley) but made as a bock.”

The weizenbock is still awaiting tapping and a first tasting.

Categories
Living

Studio IX welcomes The Carpe Café; Hardywood opens taproom

For a while now, Matt Rohdie has wanted to grow his Carpe Donut business into something beyond his bakery and shop on Allied Lane and the truck that’s a regular fixture at Fridays After Five (and plenty of parties and weddings). So when Studio IX owner James Barton approached him with the possibility of joining forces to open a café in the spot formerly inhabited by Shark Mountain Coffee Co., Rohdie was game.

The Carpe Café, which had its soft opening a couple of weeks ago and will open officially on Friday, February 17, “is an aggregation, a team effort from the Charlottesville [food] community,” says Rohdie. It touts Carpe Donuts in addition to food from local makers such as Revolutionary Soup, Hudson Henry Baking Co., Farmstead Ferments, BreadWorks, Mad Hatter Foods, Ula Tortilla, NoBull Burger and Speedie B’s Energy Bars. Eggs (used for breakfast sandwiches) will come from the Local Food Hub, and drinks include Mudhouse and Trager Brothers coffees, Snowing in Space cold brew nitro coffee and Blue Ridge Bucha.

Rohdie and Barton are working with the creators of The Festy Experience to bring some music into the mix, too. On Saturday, February 18, the café will hold a bluegrass brunch put together by The Artist Farm (the folks responsible for The Festy Experience).

Rohdie says the café, which will be open from 8am to 5pm Monday through Saturday, uses certified organic ingredients whenever possible, but he acknowledges that often the organic certification (which costs tens of thousands of dollars) is too expensive for a small local purveyor. A benefit of working within a local food scene like Charlottesville’s is that Rohdie often knows the producers well enough to know that their processes are organic, sustainable and trustworthy, even if they don’t hold the USDA organic certification. “With a small business, it becomes a relationship of trust between the owner, the purveyor and the customer,” says Rohdie.

On tap

The Hardywait is over. At noon on Saturday, February 18, Richmond-based Hardywood Park Craft Brewery will open its pilot brewery and taproom on the ground floor of the Uncommon building at 1000 W. Main St.

According to a Hardywood press release, the taproom is a research and development center that will help Hardywood choose new signature beers via an “immediate feedback loop.” In short: Try one of the experimental recipes concocted by lead brewer Kevin Storm and assistant brewer/apprentice Anna Warneke in the on-site 3.5-barrel brewhouse, then tell them what you think via a comment card or one of the iPads located throughout the 150-person capacity taproom. Popular recipes will be considered for wider production.

During the grand opening, they’ll broadcast the UVA men’s basketball game against UNC on the taproom’s big-screen TVs while JM Stock folks cook burgers and sausages from noon to 4pm. Pilot batches of the Shipman’s Porter, Arschandler Weisenbock and the Byki American black IPA will be on tap.

The taproom will be open from noon to 10pm Tuesdays through Sundays. As for food, they’ll have fresh-baked pretzels made with Hardywood’s signature Singel Belgian blonde ale served with beer cheese and beer mustard, as well as other snacks from Virginia-based purveyors.