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Living

Sammy love in the new year: Guest sandwiches are back at Keevil & Keevil

After a consulting gig at Commonwealth Restaurant & Sky Bar, Harrison Keevil is back full-time at Keevil & Keevil, with some new ideas for the store he co-owns with his wife Jennifer.

“We’re bringing back the guest sandwiches —where I ask friends what their dream sandwich is and try to make it come to life with local ingredients,” Keevil says. He’ll start with a take on Charlottesville native/UVA grad Mason Hereford’s famed bologna sandwich.

Hereford’s New Orleans sandwich shop, Turkey and the Wolf, was voted Bon Appetit’s best restaurant in America in 2017, and was also a James Beard finalist for best new restaurant that year. He’s famed for turning your average sandwich into a work of wonder.

“Mason asked us to make an all-Virginia version of his fried bologna sandwich,” Keevil says. Hereford shared a family recipe for mustard, which will be mixed with Duke’s mayonnaise. The bologna is made from local grass-fed beef, the bread comes from Albemarle Baking Company, and it’s all topped off with Route 11 Potato Chips.

Other chefs with guest sandwich offerings in the months to come will include Jason Alley, owner of Pasture and Comfort in Richmond, and Trigg Brown, formerly of Ten and Blue Light, and now co-owner of Win Son, a Taiwanese-American restaurant in Brooklyn.

The chef whose sandwiches sell the most during this multi-month smackdown will make a $500 donation to the charity of his choice, and Keevil & Keevil will then match the donation for Therapeutic Adventures, in honor of a friend of Harrison’s who passed away last summer and had lived a very full life with only one leg.

Keevil says they’ve got some other new things brewing at the shop, including seasonally focused sandwiches and pick up/takeaway dinners.

“We’ll do some beef bourguignon, lasagna, and some more heartier stuff during the winter, keeping an eye on the weather,” he says. “If it’s going to warm up, we’ll do some lighter stuff, and if it’s colder, we’ll do more braising. We’ll have delicious stuff people can grab and take home to feed their family. Now that I’m back in the kitchen full-time, I have a lot of ideas and energy and a lot of new time to dedicate to creating delicious food here.”

So long, farewell to Jose De Brito

After a year at the helm of Fleurie’s kitchen, esteemed local chef Jose De Brito is leaving to return home to Washington, Virginia, where he and his wife settled when he worked at the Inn at Little Washington.

De Brito, who at times could be as professionally elusive as Peter Chang once was, rose to prominence when he headed the kitchen at The Alley Light, earning praise in the food world with his French cuisine.

Fleurie owner Brian Helleberg says he hates to lose a gifted chef but understood his need to return home.

“Chef Jose had been keeping an apartment in Charlottesville for the work week and was missing his wife and home in Little Washington,” he says. “It was certainly a privilege to have him as the chef and although I’ll miss his presence, I’ll look forward to continuing our friendship.”

Helleberg says Fleurie is in good hands with Joe Walker, the new chef de cuisine.

“Walker is going to surprise some people when they see just how good he is,” he says. “Chef Joe has been immersed in great kitchen culture and Michelin star food his whole career, and I think Jose would be the first to agree that his ceiling isn’t even visible from here.”

No sweet ending for Sweethaus

Sweethaus, the sole remaining cupcakery in Charlottesville, unceremoniously closed its doors days before Christmas with no explanation. The store’s other two locations, in Ivy and Brooklyn, appear to have closed as well.

A little nookie

The Nook is under new management, sort of, after owner Stu Rifkin sold his share of the business to longtime co-owner Gina Wood.

More downtown pastries on the way

Looks like MarieBette’s satellite shop on Water Street should be opened by the end of the month. Co-owner Jason Becton said they fell behind due to some contractor issues, but are hoping for a late-January launch.

Categories
Living

Bellair Market favorite lends inspiration

By C. Simon Davidson, Alexa Nash and Erin O’Hare

Bellair Market’s Jefferson sandwich—maple turkey, cranberry relish, cheddar cheese, lettuce and herb mayonnaise layered between two slices of pillowy French bread—is a lunch staple for many in town. But for Charlottesville native Mason Hereford, a quirky and imaginative chef with nostalgia for all things ’90s, it’s the sandwich that started it all (he ate two a week for a decade while he lived here). Hereford’s New Orleans sandwich shop, Turkey & The Wolf, known for its outrageously good bologna sandwiches, collard green melt, tomato sandwiches and a serious allegiance to Duke’s Mayo, was recently named the best new restaurant of 2017 by Bon Appétit magazine and landed on Food & Wine magazine’s top 10 best new restaurants of 2017 list.

Common vision

Commonwealth Restaurant & Skybar is getting a makeover, and it’s brought in a couple of industry experts to help: restaurateur Will Richey, co-founder of Ten Course Hospitality and the brains behind The Alley Light, The Bebedero, Brasserie Saison, The Pie Chest, Revolutionary Soup and The Whiskey Jar; and chef Harrison Keevil, formerly of Brookville restaurant and currently of Keevil & Keevil Grocery and Kitchen in Belmont. Richey and Keevil have assisted the Commonwealth kitchen crew in revamping the menu, while Ten Course Hospitality will assume management of the restaurant. Commonwealth’s kitchen team, led by chef Reggie Calhoun, will remain.

The result is what Richey calls “modern Virginia cuisine,” food grounded in Virginia’s culinary traditions but also drawing on cultures that have shaped what Virginia is today. A devout pork-lover, Keevil is particularly excited about the pork rinds with pork dip and the smoked trout dip. The new Commonwealth menu launched Monday, September 4.

Eater’s digest

Tilman’s, a cheese shop and wine bar, will open later this fall at 406 E. Main St. on the Downtown Mall, in the space most recently occupied by My Chocolate Shoppe. More details to come, but Tilman’s will serve cheese and charcuterie, salads, sandwiches and snacks, plus wine and beer. It’s not all eat-in, though—if you can’t pause to sit in the sunny space that extends all the way out to Water Street, you can buy food and drink for later.

Douglas Kim, the chef who helped craft the menu at Ten when the restaurant first launched, is opening his own restaurant, Jeju Noodle Bar, in New York City this fall, and it’s been named to Eater New York’s Most Anticipated Restaurants of Fall 2017 list. According to Eater, Kim, who previously cooked at Per Se and Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, will serve casual Korean ramyun at Jeju.

Last week, Jake Busching Wines launched Orphan No. 1, an experimental bronze wine made from surplus pinot gris grapes that were treated as red wine grapes (the juice is fermented in contact with the skins). The wine is a collaboration between many wine experts in town, including Busching, Joy Ting (winemaker and head enologist at Michael Shaps Wineworks), Paul Ting (Joy’s husband, and a member of the Wine Guild of Charlottesville), Priscilla Martin (general manager and wine director at Tavola) and Will Curley (wine buyer for Ten Course Hospitality and manager at Brasserie Saison). The wine is available for purchase in select locations in town, including jakebuschingwines.com and through the Wine Guild.

Four local vineyards—Early Mountain, Stinson, Veritas and Ankida Ridge—have teamed up to create the Commonwealth Collective, a collection of winemakers with their respective vintages using grapes unique to Virginia soil.

Chopt Salad opened two weeks ago in the Barracks Road Shopping Center. The company offers keep-you-full-until-dinner salads with handmade ingredients from local artisans such as MarieBette Café & Bakery.

Ethically raised meats from Virginia are the specialty of JM Stock Provisions, which has a flagship location in Charlottesville and a store in Richmond. But according to JM Stock partner James Lum III, the company will shutter the Richmond location so it can focus on expanding its wholesale business to Charlottesville and Richmond restaurants.