Tag: Michael Keaveny

Categories
Knife & Fork

5 comfort-food recipes: Local chefs from Duner’s to The Alley Light share cozy dishes for chilly days

A favorite among Tavola regulars, pappardelle alla ragu, braises for hours—but it’s relatively simple to make and the wait pays off big-time! Photo: Tom McGovern

Few things are better in the cold of winter than spending time in the kitchen, whether you’re whipping up a tried-and-true family recipe or one from a new-to-you cookbook just waiting to have its pages earmarked and columns scribbled in. It’s all about comfort food at this time of year, of course, so we’ve rounded up five go-to dishes from local chefs: hearty pasta, soup with a “secret” ingredient (until now, anyway), a spin on Colombian street food, and more. These meals are best enjoyed with a candle lit or a fire roaring, and if you happen to be wearing your pajamas, we promise not to tell. When we say comfort, we mean it! Happy cooking!

Pappardelle alla ragu

Shown above; from Michael Keaveny, chef and co-owner, Tavola

Good news, Tavola fans. Charlottesville’s favorite Italian restaurant recently released a cookbook with recipes for some of its classic menu items, complete with recommended wine and music pairings. Compiled by Michael Keaveny (who co-owns the restaurant with C-VILLE Weekly arts editor Tami Keaveny), Tavola: 10 Greatest Hits—Music and Food is available through the restaurant’s website (tavolavino.com) and at New Dominion Bookshop on the Downtown Mall.

Serves four

Fresh pappardelle pasta ingredients (yields 8 ounces)

6 egg yolks

3/4 cup 00 semolina flour

1/3 cup No.1 semolina flour

1/8 tsp. salt

Instructions

Sift flour onto the work surface and make a well in the center. Add the egg yolks into the well, then slowly incorporate them into the flour with a fork. Keep going until the dough is smooth. When the dough comes together into a ball, knead it for about 10 minutes until it’s a cohesive, smooth mass. Cover with a damp towel, and let it rest for half an hour. Divide the dough into two balls. Flatten them slightly and dust with flour. Using a pasta machine on the widest setting, feed the dough through three times. Adjust to lowest setting and put the dough through again. The sheet should be thin. Fold the sheet over three or four times for cutting, then slice by hand to inch-wide noodles. Unroll to separate and loosen before cooking.

Pork ragu ingredients

4 lbs. pork shoulder

1 medium onion

1 large carrot

6 cloves garlic

3 oz. tomato paste

6 oz. dry red wine

2 28 oz. cans San Marzano tomatoes

3 sprigs thyme

3 sprigs sage

8 basil leaves, chopped

1/4 tsp. toasted, ground fennel seed

Extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Instructions

Cut pork shoulder into one- to two-inch inch chunks. Season with salt and pepper and brown in a large sauté pan over medium to high heat. Remove the pork from the pan, add two tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil, onions, carrots, and garlic, and cook until vegetables are soft. Pour the tomatoes from the can into a bowl and crush by hand, removing undesirable pieces. In the sauté pan, add tomato paste, cook for two minutes, then deglaze with red wine and add canned tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper, and add herbs. Slow cook until the pork is tender, about three to four hours. Cook pasta al dente. Strain, add desired amount of pork ragu to noodles, stir together to coat. Serve with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, sprinkle with chopped basil.

The Alley Light’s artichoke gratin is savory and satisfying, but not too filling. Photo: Tom McGovern

Artichoke gratin

From Robin McDaniel, chef and owner, The Alley Light

This simple, satisfying dish is traditional in the Provence region of southern France—and a favorite on the menu at The Alley Light, especially during cold spells. The light flavors of the artichoke and lemon balance with the richness of the bacon and Parmesan cheese.

Serves six to eight

Ingredients

3 slices bacon, coarsely chopped

5 pearl onions, quartered

1 medium shallot, diced

2-3 cloves of garlic, minced

4-6 fresh artichokes (frozen artichoke hearts may be substituted; Trader Joe’s are good)

2-3 carrots, peeled, quartered lengthwise, and cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces

1 bay leaf and a few sprigs thyme, tied together with kitchen twine

Juice of one lemon

½ cup white wine

32 oz. unsalted chicken or vegetable stock, warmed

Extra-virgin olive oil

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Grated Parmesan cheese, for topping

Instructions

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Warm stock in sauce pan. (If using fresh artichokes, remove all outer leaves, peel stems and cut off bottoms, scoop out the “hairy” part of the hearts, cut lengthwise into quarters or eighths, blanch or steam until tender but firm, and then set aside to cool.) Over medium heat, cook bacon in Dutch oven (or other dish that can be transferred from stovetop to oven) until rendered but not crispy. Add onions, shallot, and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until translucent. Add artichokes, carrots, and herbs. Drizzle with olive oil. Add lemon juice and wine. When carrots begin to soften, add stock, salt, and pepper. Reduce liquid until a few tablespoons remain. Top with grated Parmesan, and then bake for about 12 minutes or until warmed through.

Duner’s chef Laura Fonner’s soup is a spicy-sweet one-pot wonder. Photo: Tom McGovern

Chicken, corn, and tortilla soup

From Laura Fonner, executive chef, Duner’s

You may be skeptical when a chef invokes a “secret” or “magic” ingredient, but Fonner swears by Lizano sauce, a Costa Rican condiment, in this recipe. “It’s spicy, sweet, and tangy—basically, magic in a bottle.”

Serves six to 10

Ingredients

3 cups roasted, boneless chicken thighs (or the meat of a whole rotisserie chicken) cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 red bell pepper, stem and seeds removed; diced

2 stalks celery, diced

1 yellow onion, diced

2 jalapeños, stems and seeds removed; diced

4 ears corn, cooked, kernels removed; cobs set aside for stock

2 large tomatoes, diced

1 Tbsp. chopped garlic

1 bunch fresh cilantro; leaves chopped, stems discarded

2 cups Lizano sauce (available at specialty food stores like Foods of All Nations)

10 cups chicken stock

1 1/2 cups heavy cream

1 pack corn tortillas cut into strips (about 3 cups)

Optional garnish: shaved white cheddar, minced scallions, chopped cilantro, crispy tortilla strips

Instructions

In a large soup pot, sauté onions, garlic, peppers, celery, and corn until tender. Season with salt and pepper. Add tomatoes, chicken stock, and corn cobs. Bring to a boil, lower heat, and simmer for 45 minutes. Discard corn cobs. Stir in heavy cream, chicken, cilantro, and Lizano sauce, and simmer 20 minutes longer. Add tortilla strips, stir, turn off heat, and cover pot. Let rest for 10 minutes. Stir and serve immediately.

 

What would TJ do? Maybe like this, a little sparkling wine with his macaroni and cheese. Photo: Tom McGovern

Monticello macaroni and cheese

From Shelby Poulin, chef, Monticello Farm Table

Monticello Farm Table, formerly the Café at Monticello, uses high-quality cheeses (including Parmesan, a favorite of Thomas Jefferson’s) to create a unique take on this iconic comfort food. Sodium citrate in the recipe is a natural emulsifier that replaces a cream-based sauce, making this dish a snap.

Serves 10 to 12

Ingredients

3.5 cups water (for cheese sauce)

1.16 oz. or 33 g. sodium citrate, weighed

12 oz. Cabot very sharp clothbound cheddar (often also sealed in wax)

12 oz. traditional Gouda

8 oz. Parmigiana-Reggiano cheese

3 lbs. dry macaroni noodles

Instructions

Grate all cheeses. Bring water to a boil. Add sodium citrate. Gradually whisk in grated cheeses until melted and smooth. Pour through a fine mesh strainer to remove any lumps. Bring five-gallon pot of salted water to boil. Cook noodles until al dente, strain, add immediately to sauce, and stir.

 

This dish is as simple to make and as satisfying as a hot shower after building a snowman. Photo: Tom McGovern

Maicitos con pollo

From Harvey and Danilo Mayorga, owners, Guajiros Miami Eatery

The name of this dish translates simply to sweet corn with chicken. It’s a popular street food in Colombia. Here, the Mayorga brothers, whose Cuban-style restaurant is on 29 North, adapt the recipe for you to make at home.

Serves two

Ingredients

1 cup boneless grilled breast, chopped

1 oz. each, extra-virgin olive oil and butter

1 cup sweet corn kernels

½ cup blended cheese, shredded

2 oz. milk or half and half

Lay’s potato chips for topping

Pink sauce:

1 cup mayonnaise

1 cup ketchup

2 oz. lime juice

1 oz. hot sauce

Garlic mayo:

1 cup mayo

2 tbsp. garlic, finely diced

Salt to taste

Cilantro crema:

1 cup of sour cream

1 oz. fresh lime juice

1/2 bunch of cilantro leaves, chopped, stems discarded

Salt to taste

Instructions

In three separate bowls, whisk together ingredients for each sauce. Heat oil and butter in a frying pan, add chicken, and cook over medium-high heat for three to five minutes. Add corn and heat through, about three minutes. Add milk and cheese and mix well with a wooden spoon until cheese is melted and all ingredients incorporated. Serve the mixture in a bowl, top with crushed Lay’s chips, and drizzle with sauces. Garnish with chopped cilantro if desired.

Categories
Living

Tavola’s Michael Keaveny guides young talent in honing their skills

Pappardelle bolognese, grilled swordfish and chitarra-cut spaghetti with jumbo lump crab at Tavola. Photos by Tom McGovern

“Cooking is a young person’s game.” I’ve heard it more than once. As chefs grow older, the daily grind leaves many looking to continue their careers outside a restaurant kitchen. Never easy, the transition can be especially tough for chef-owners, who must entrust someone else at the helm.

Consider Michael Keaveny of the Belmont Italian restaurant, Tavola. When Keaveny opened Tavola in 2009 with his wife, Tami (C-VILLE’s arts editor), the lifelong chef ran the kitchen. His food was outstanding. In 2011 though, the father of two was ready to step back. “Pushing 50, it would’ve been tough to continue in that role for much longer,” says Keaveny. But Tavola after 2011 has been every bit as good as Tavola before 2011. So, how has Keaveny pulled it off?

“I try to make it advantageous for young chefs to come in, learn and better themselves,” says Tavola owner Michael Keaveny. Photo by Eze Amos

Initially, preparation eased the transition. Keaveny had been grooming his sous chef, Loren Mendosa, for the role. With Mendosa’s talent and training, regulars barely noticed a difference.

But, when Mendosa left in 2014 to help launch Lampo, Keaveny found himself with a new challenge: hiring and retaining a talented head chef from outside Tavola who would be willing to cook someone else’s food. Tavola’s dishes are largely Keaveny’s recipes, and their consistent execution has been key to the restaurant’s success. “An established chef who wants to come in and do his own menu is never going to work out at Tavola,” admits Keaveny.

The ones Keaveny has hired sure have worked out. Most recently, Caleb Warr was named the area’s Best Chef by C-VILLE Weekly readers. When Warr left town this summer, Keaveny hired C&O chef de cuisine Dylan Allwood, who took over in July. And, as Mendosa and I learned during a recent dinner at Tavola, the kitchen hasn’t missed a beat under Allwood, continuing the restaurant’s success from one chef to the next.

Vital to this, says Mendosa, is excellent training. “Tavola has done a great job of bringing staff along at their own pace and training properly,” he says. “Not every kitchen has that in mind or the luxury of the time to train.” Allwood has noticed this already. In just three months, “Michael’s experience and knowledge have helped me improve as a chef,” he says. Keaveny does much of the training himself, still spending more than 15 hours a week in the kitchen. “I try to make it advantageous for young chefs to come in, learn and better themselves,” Keaveny says.

That shows in Tavola’s classics, which Allwood’s kitchen already has down. Case in point is the cozzi ai ferri e pane that began our meal. Mussels are skillet-roasted in butter and garlic, and then served in the skillet with slices of Albemarle Baking Company baguette to soak up the briny sauce. Like many of Tavola’s dishes, Mendosa says, the mussels dish resonates because it’s simply prepared but boasts a bold flavor profile.

Allwood’s go-to among the Tavola classics is linguine alla carbonara. “Comfort food,” he says of the pasta tossed with housemade sausage, Olli pancetta, egg, Pecorino Romano, onion and black pepper. For purists who quibble that sausage does not belong in true carbonara, I have advice: Taste it. This is the way Keaveny learned it at the legendary Connecticut restaurant Carbone’s, and there’s a reason chefs and regulars swoon over it. “I love the way the salty pork and sausage work with the egg sauce and a healthy dose of black pepper,” Allwood says.

Dylan Allwood joined Tavola as executive chef in July. Photo by Natalie Jacobsen

Mendosa meanwhile is partial to the bucatini all’amatriciana, which we polished off quickly. Like spaghetti but thicker and hollowed out, bucatini is tossed with marinara, Calabrian chili, onion, Olli pancetta and Grana Padano cheese. “Again, simple, so it has to hit on all the little details,” Mendosa says.

Another key to retaining good chefs is providing an outlet beyond rote replication of recipes: the blackboard menu of specials. “That’s the chef’s playground,” Keaveny says, dating back to Mendosa’s days. “The freedom to create within the realm of the specials gives plenty of creative outlet for most chefs,” Mendosa says. And, it also rewards Tavola’s guests. Among all of the dishes Mendosa and I shared, Allwood’s special entrata was our favorite: chitarra-cut spaghetti with jumbo lump crab, Calabrian chilies, basil and lobster brodo. The squared shape and texture of chitarra pasta enabled the luscious sauce to adhere to it, all the better to savor it. “Fantastic,” Mendosa said. “Rich and buttery, but still light enough to leave you feeling satisfied but not overwhelmed.”

Tavola is one of Charlottesville’s most beloved restaurants. The main reasons for that, Mendosa says, are the quality of ingredients and consistency in preparing them. For the latter, since stepping down as head chef six years ago, Keaveny has relied upon a series of excellent young chefs to fill that role. He’s found another one in Allwood.

“Dylan is doing an incredible job,” Keaveny says. “His food has fit in perfectly with what Tavola does/is.”

Categories
Living

Caleb Warr leaves head chef post at Tavola; Dylan Allwood takes his place

Photo by Aaron Cohen

After showcasing his mastery of Italian cooking at Tavola, Caleb Warr is leaving his post as head chef. Dylan Allwood, current chef de cuisine at C&O Restaurant, will take the spot.

Warr, a Louisiana native, arrived in Charlottesville seven years ago with a desire to cook. He didn’t attend culinary school, but with dedication and hard work, he won spots in some of Charlottesville’s best kitchens—Zinc, The Rock Barn and Mas among them—and is in the running for the coveted title of best chef in our 2017 Best Of C-VILLE poll.

Warr’s last day at Tavola (the restaurant is co-owned by C-VILLE’s arts editor Tami Keaveny) will be June 10, after which he’ll relocate to Cape Cod with his family and run the kitchen at an athletic center while getting to know New England food and culture before deciding what’s next. He says he’s proud of what he’s accomplished at Tavola, most of all passing knowledge along to other hard-working, aspiring cooks.

“I’ll miss my staff the most,” says Warr. “General manager Priscilla Martin and owner Michael Keaveny and I have developed something very special recently. Walking away from this was not easy, but I leave it in very great hands between them and my kitchen staff in conjunction with Dylan. I will also miss other chefs and cooks in this town—there are to many to name, but a few are very special to me.”

Allwood feels similarly about his departure from C&O. The restaurant “has an extremely talented team…some of the best in the business,” Allwood says, both in the front of the house and the kitchen and bar. “It’s very much like a family, and it will be difficult to leave—even for such a great opportunity.”

Allwood got his first kitchen job when he was 15, washing dishes at a local restaurant in his hometown of Locust Grove. He eventually worked his way up to line cook, then attended the Culinary Institute of America and worked at the Clifton Inn and at Lemaire in the Jefferson Hotel in Richmond before cooking at the now-shuttered Brookville Restaurant. After serving as sous chef to Brookville’s Harrison Keevil, Allwood was sous chef and later executive chef at Rocksalt Charlottesville before landing at C&O.

“I’ve always had a passion for Italian food but have never had the opportunity to explore that in any of the kitchens I’ve cooked in previously,” says Allwood. “This is my chance to explore that passion with some of the best in the business.” Plus, “Tavola has some of the best food in Charlottesville. I’m looking forward to being part of that tradition,” he says.