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Living

Pho 3 Pho opens off 29 North

By Jenny Gardiner and Sam Padgett
eatdrink@c-ville.com

You’ve gotta give John Dinh, owner of Charlottesville’s newest Vietnamese restaurant, major props for his clever restaurant moniker: Pho 3 Pho.

In case you didn’t know, “pho” is pronounced “pha,” as in do-re-me-fa-so-la-ti-do. Dinh credits the name, which echoes our local 434 area code, to his brother James.

Pho 3 Pho, which opened June 12 in Rivanna Plaza, the small strip mall abutting the AMF Kegler’s Lanes bowling alley on 29 North, is the realization of a long-held dream by Dinh, whose wife, Julie, owns two nail salons in town. Born in Vietnam but raised in Charlottesville, Dinh, who’s lived in the area for 20 years and attended Albemarle High School before graduating from William Monroe High School in Greene County, has always loved to cook.

“This is my goal, my dream, something I’ve always wanted to do, and nails just happened to come first, somehow—I have no clue how,” he says.

While the venue, formerly a sports bar, has a fully stocked bar and 20 different craft beers, the focus here is on pho, a popular traditional Vietnamese noodle soup made with slow-cooked beef stock that Dinh says is “the backbone of every Vietnamese restaurant. If [the pho’s] not good, then you should walk out.”

Childhood memories inform Dinh’s love of the soup—his family attended church in Richmond, where there is a large Vietnamese community, and ate it each Sunday.

Years of trial and error have gone into Dinh’s broth recipe, leading to the fragrant aromas wafting from the kitchen.

“The beef simmers for eight to 10 hours and is served hot,” he says. “It’s simmering all the time.” They make 100 quarts of the stuff a day, and there are plenty of pho options here, including sliced beef, meatball, brisket, chicken or a combination. Pho 3 Pho dishes cost between $3.50 for an appetizer and $12.50 for a large combination pho.

But Dinh is unequivocal about his favorite Pho 3 Pho dish: spicy beef noodle. “It’s different from pho,” he says. “It’s rich, a little bit sweet, a little bit sour, a good blend of different tastes. It’s strong, a bit spicy—I can’t make it mild, so don’t ask.”

Beneficial brew

For the past three years, Virginia breweries have come together to raise money for the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation the best way they know how—selling beer—and Three Notch’d Brewery’s 65 Roses beer was made specifically to benefit charity, with $1 of every 65 Roses beer purchased going to the CFF. According to brewmaster Dave Warwick, the beer is designed to be “a light blonde ale that’s crisp and easy-drinking.” The June 14 Brewer’s Ball, the annual event that brings together 10 different Virginia breweries to benefit the cause, is your last chance to try the limited-edition brew before it’s gone.

Award-winning ales

The Virginia Craft Brewers Guild recently announced the winners of the 2018 Virginia Craft Beer Cup. Of the 375 beers judged in 27 categories, seven local breweries earned accolades. Blue Mountain Barrel House & Organic Brewery’s Adambeor took second place in the Best in Show category, along with first place in the Historical and Smoked Beer category. Wild Wolf Brewing Company’s American Stout nabbed first in the American Porter and Stout category, and second place honors went to Random Row Brewing Co. in the Pale Malty European Lager category with Not Yours Maibeck, and Blue Mountain Brewery’s Marsedon in the Trappist Ale category. Local brews won plenty of third place spots, too: Champion Brewing Company’s Shower Beer (Czech Lager category); Starr Hill Brewery’s Looking Glass and Jomo (IPA and Amber Malty and Bitter European Lager categories, respectively); South Street Brewery’s Virginia Lager (International Lager) and Three Notch’d Brewing Company’s Ghost of the 43rd (Pale American Ale).

Beer fans can sample many of the winners at the Virginia Craft Brewers Fest on August 18 at IX Art Park.

Categories
Living

Chef Tyler Teass leaves Brasserie Saison

By Erin O’Hare and Sam Padgett

Eater’s digest

Chef Tyler Teass is leaving his post as head chef at Brasserie Saison in order to spend more time with his wife and young son. “We are parting with him as friends, and wish him all the best,” says the Downtown Mall restaurant’s general manager, Will Curley, adding that “we are incredibly lucky to be able to have his replacements already on staff, having Devin Murray and Mike Perry take over for [Teass] as our chefs.”

Before working in the Brasserie Saison kitchen, Murray was chef at The Whiskey Jar. “He has a great mind for updating classic Belgian fare with modern touches,” Curley says. And Perry “has worked for seemingly every great chef in town,” he says, including Tucker Yoder at Timbercreek Market’s Back 40, Angelo Vangelopolous at the Ivy Inn, Ben Thompson at the now-shuttered Rock Barn and John Haywood at the also-shuttered OXO; Perry also served as head of Harvest Moon Catering for some time.

MidiCi, The Neapolitan Pizza Company, a small, California-based chain, will open its Charlottesville franchise this month, with preview tastings on November 11 and 12. Like the restaurant’s Facebook or Instagram pages (@MidiCiCville) to earn a free margherita pizza this weekend, baked in one of two 7,000-pound wood-fire ovens imported from Italy.

As C-VILLE’s At The Table columnist C. Simon Davidson noted last month on his The Charlottesville 29 blog, Andrew Silver, who co-founded Zocalo with Ivan Rekosh and Peter Castiglione in 2002, is moving on to a job with Roots Natural Kitchen (which he and Rekosh helped launch in 2015). Davidson notes that for now, Silver’s focus will be on Roots’ new catering space in the former St. Maarten Cafe on Elliewood Avenue, a sort of blueprint for future Roots locations. Don’t worry, though, Zocalo and Rekosh aren’t going anywhere.

Cactus restaurant gets new space

Dónde está México? It isn’t south of the Rio Grande as you would assume. It also isn’t on Carlton Avenue in Woolen Mills, underneath the Aquí es México restaurant sign—at least not anymore. Aquí es México, known for its authentic Mexican and Central American flavor, is now Cactus restaurant. New owner Castulo Gaipan (who owns the small Cactus restaurant in the Sonoco gas station on Fifth Street) plans on crafting a different, but still authentic, menu soon. Additionally, Cactus will feature a bakery run by the previous owner of Aquí Es México, which will provide a large variety of Mexican breads that will be sold both in bulk and by the slice.

Recipe swap

Melissa Palombi’s new UVA-themed cookbook asks the provocative question that’s surely on everyone’s mind: Who’s in the kitchen? While the answer is usually assumed to be Dinah and an unspecified stranger, this new cookbook sheds light on the age-old mystery. In this case, the “Hoo” in the kitchen is an impressive collection of UVA folks from all over the country.

Featuring such personal recipes as local caterer Frank Smith’s famous butternut squash soup and jambalaya, as well as UVA’s vice provost for the arts and Virginia Film Festival executive director Jody Kielbasa’s pierogies with blueberry sauce, Hoos in the Kitchen proves to be an eclectic mix of dishes inspired by those who’ve worn orange and blue—personally and professionally. As is obligatory with anything UVA-related, there’s a Thomas Jefferson recipe…for hot chocolate. Palombi says she didn’t want to make just any old cookbook, but rather “a profile of faces and stories [that] people might not know from the UVA extended community.” The book is out this week, for those looking to have a more cavalier attitude about cooking.

Categories
Living

The Shack’s chef named a James Beard semifinalist

The James Beard Foundation just released its list of 2017 Restaurant and Chef Award semifinalists, and Staunton chef Ian Boden landed one of the coveted spots. He’s in the running for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic; winners will be announced May 1.

Boden, who cooks new American cuisine inspired by rural Virginia at The Shack—named one of the best 100 restaurants in the South by Southern Living magazine—answered a few questions for us about his eating and cooking habits past and present. (Who doesn’t love a good English muffin pizza?)

C-VILLE Weekly: What did you have for breakfast?

Ian Boden: A few cups of coffee and a croissant from Newtown Baking.

What was the first thing you ever cooked?

I can’t say for sure, but I’m going to guess it was English muffin pizzas in the toaster oven.

You have 15 minutes to cook something for dinner. What do you make?

Pasta, most likely.

When you were a kid, what was your favorite school lunch?

I was never a fan of school lunch, really. In high school I ate fries out of the vending machines…that was pretty much it.

Why are you a chef?

I love what I do and I don’t know how to do anything else, really (not that it makes a difference).

Who’s the person you’d most like to cook for, and what would you make?

Edna Lewis and Grandma Tissy; whatever is on hand. I love that Ms. Lewis finally got some due, even if it was from “Top Chef.” It’s unfortunate that so many cooks, and Southern cooks at that, previously had no idea who she was and what she meant to so many. [Editor’s note: Chef and cookbook author Edna Lewis put Southern cooking on the culinary map and was hailed as “the South’s answer to Julia Child.”]

Grandma Tissy is my wife’s grandma; she passed away before my wife and I met. She was the matriarch of her family and raised five kids in a shack in Swoope, Virginia—that shack is our restaurant logo.


Raise a glass

Last month, several local vineyards and wineries earned medals at the 2017 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, the world’s largest American wines contest:

Afton Mountain Vineyards took home double gold for its 2012 Petit Verdot, while the 2012 Festa di Bacco red blend and the 2014 Cabernet Sauvigon each took home a silver medal.

Barboursville Vineyards earned gold for its 2013 and 2014 Octagon wines and 2014 Cabernet Franc and silver for its 2015 Vermentino and 2015 Vigonier.

DuCard Vineyards in Etlan took home silver for its 2014 Petit Verdot and bronze for its 2014 Cabernet Franc.

Glass House Winery in Free Union won silver for its 2014 Twenty-First (a Bordeaux blend) and its 2014 Chambourcin, and bronze for its 2015 Viognier.

Jefferson Vineyards netted double gold for its 2015 Viognier and gold for its 2014 Petit Verdot.

Stinson Vineyards in Crozet earned silver for its 2015 Sauvignon Blanc and bronze for its 2013 Tannat.

Trump Winery nabbed double gold for its 2009 Brut Reserve, gold for its 2010 Blanc de Blanc and bronze for its 2015 Meritage.

Whitehall Vineyards in Crozet took silver for its 2015 Chardonnay.

Veritas Vineyards and Winery in Afton collected four medals—double gold for its 2014 Petit Verdot; gold for its 2015 Sauvignon Blanc; and two silvers, one for its 2014 Veritas (a Bordeaux blend) and one for its 2015 Sauvingon Blanc.*


Tasty Tidbits

According to a sign posted in the restaurant’s window, Downtown Thai is for sale.

Texas Roadhouse steakhouse will open in Albemarle Square on Route 29 by the fourth week in February.

Feelin’ Saucy Pizzeria will open on 14th Street on the UVA Corner—its menu touts “buy one pizza, get one free (of equal or lesser value).”

Uncle Maddio’s Pizza will open soon in The Shops at Stonefield; according to signs in the window and posts on the restaurant’s Facebook page, they’re still in the hiring phase.

Monsoon Siam Togogo has opened in Main Street Market. Call in your favorite Thai dish from Monsoon’s menu for pick-up (284-7117).

Former Northern Exposure chef Tony Bonanno is the new owner and chef of the Madison Inn Restaurant at 217 N. Main St. in Madison, where he’s cooking Italian and continental infusion food.

*This article was updated at 12:43pm February 27 to include all local wineries that won medals at the 2017 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

Categories
Living

The Salad Maker opens on Market Street

In The Big Salad episode of “Seinfeld,” Elaine asks George to get her a big salad from the coffee shop. “What’s in the big salad?” George asks. “Big lettuce, big carrots, tomatoes like volleyballs,” Jerry deadpans.

You won’t get enormous salads with gargantuan vegetables at The Salad Maker at 300 E. Market St., but you will find dozens of fresh salad options. Owner Jacie Dunkel, who also owns Tin Whistle Irish Pub and Fellini’s #9, says that while the Blue Ridge Country Store on the Downtown Mall has a great lunchtime make-your-own salad bar, there aren’t many places downtown to get a quick salad for lunch or dinner, and she wanted to give customers another option, especially one with seating.

Tin Whistle chef Karen Fiedler started developing the salad recipes before handing things over to Allison Campbell, previously of Zazu’s and Revolutionary Soup.

Salads are ordered via paper menus available at the door—once you’ve snagged one, write your name on the line and circle your special or classic salad of choice, or select your own components from a hefty list of greens, proteins, cheeses, housemade dressings and more. Then, take your paper to the Create counter, and pick it up and pay—$8.95 for a special or classic, $6.95 and up for a custom—at the Produce counter when your name is called.

There’s the North Garden, with spring mix, spiced almonds, goat cheese, dried apricots, roasted red peppers and balsamic vinaigrette, as well as The Crozet steak salad with romaine and iceberg lettuces, blue cheese, marinated mushrooms, tomatoes and blue cheese dressing. There’s also a cobb, Greek, Caesar and spinach salad, and, if you’re feeling adventurous, opt for a Palmyra salad: in-season ingredients sourced from many local farmers and City Market vendors—it’ll never be the same twice. All salads come with a housemade rye cracker. And The Salad Maker also offers a daily soup, made at the Tin Whistle, and homemade brownies and cookies.

Strike while the waffle iron is hot

How do you like your waffles? With a pat of butter and a drizzle of syrup? Smothered in fruit compote and whipped cream? Scalding hot and crispy brown after a moment too long in mom’s toaster (I’m looking at you, Eggos!)?

Come winter, your preferred waffle consumption method may change with the opening of Iron Paffles and Coffee at 214 W. Water St. At Iron, a paffle—housemade puff pastry baked to flaky perfection on a waffle iron—is a bit richer and more flexible than a waffle, making it the perfect vehicle not just for syrup, caramelized cinnamon apples and whipped cream, but for sandwiches, too.

In February, owner Kathryn Matthews plans to start serving eat-in and take-out paffles such as the Made of Iron, with sausage, bacon, egg and cheese; the Rise ’N’ Iron with blueberry compote, local hickory syrup and whipped cream; the Iron Master, with Southern fried chicken and mac ’n’ cheese; and various vegetarian options. Paffles will cost around $6 each.

Tasty tidbit

Monolith Studio’s chef knives were recently named a runner-up in the Home category in Garden & Gun magazine’s seventh annual Made in the South Awards, which celebrate and encourage Southern craftspeople.

Categories
Living

Valley Road Vineyards opens on Nelson’s 151

One of the most surprising things Stan Joynes learned after entering the local wine business is how much camaraderie there is among vineyard owners and winemakers. It’s not a “zero-sum game,” he says—when one business is successful, they all benefit.

About two years ago, Joynes started thinking it was time to do something different. He had helped found Richmond law firm LeClairRyan, and although he was passionate about his work, he knew he needed a change. He and his wife, Barbara, had a second home in Wintergreen and visited many of the local wineries while here.

They started looking for land in both Albemarle and Nelson counties, and heard that the former amFOG Farms property on Route 151 in Nelson County was for sale. They bought it the same day they saw it last fall, and started their winery, Valley Road Vineyards, with four other couples from Charlottesville and Richmond.

Joynes says he received lots of guidance from locals in the industry, including Ellen King, co-owner of King Family Vineyards. Because it takes two to three years for grapes to mature (Valley Road planted one acre each of sauvignon blanc, cabernet franc, chardonnay and petit verdot grapes in April), King suggested they consult with her winemaker, Matthieu Finot, on sourcing surplus grapes for their first bottling.

With Finot at the helm, Valley Road has bottled 2,000 cases of six wines: viognier, chardonnay, Destana (viognier, chardonnay and petit manseng blend), rosé, merlot and a 2014 meritage, which will be available during the vineyard’s grand opening weekend August 19-21. Other wines from the vineyard include a pinot gris, a second viognier, a petit verdot, a viognier-based sparkling wine and a red “spaghetti wine” in the fall.

The property’s previous life as a farm is still evident—the “industrial chic” tasting room has concrete floors and distressed wood walls, and the patina tin covering the front of the bar was part of an equipment shed on the property. In addition, the vineyard is hosting a weekly farmers market from 3-7pm on Thursdays as a way to showcase local vendors and bring the community together.

“(Agriculture) is the ultimate sustainable activity because the community helps each other,” Joynes says. “I think that is very true in the wine business for most people—there’s an abundance mentality. …It’s just instinctively part of the culture here. It’s great to be a part of.”

Something’s brewing

Deschutes Brewery and Blue Ridge Beverage Company held a launch party celebrating the brewery’s Roanoke brewery (projected to open in 2021) July 28 at Second Street Gallery. Deschutes beers started hitting taps and stores in western Virginia August 1. On tap at the event were some of the beers you can find in our area, including the Mirror Pond Pale Ale, Black Butte Porter, Fresh Squeezed IPA and Pinedrops IPA, as well as samples of more rare beers, including Mirror Mirror barley wine ale, Smoked Gose, The Dissident (Belgian-style brown ale) and Green Monster (a sour beer with dried fruit notes).

Related links

Remember when Deschutes wanted to come here?