Categories
Culture Food & Drink Living

Beers in the wild and wine in your trunk

A Woman with Backbone

How’s this for a job description: Hike East coast mountains, drink beer, take pictures, and get paid $20,000. That’s the deal Devils Backbone Brewing Company announced this year, and unsurprisingly, outdoor enthusiasts flooded the brewery’s inbox with applications. After reviewing thousands of eager hiker-drinkers’ pitches, DBBC appointed UVA alum Kristen Musselman to be its first Chief Hiking Officer.

Musselman, who currently works as a wilderness therapy field guide in Colorado, says she’s ecstatic to be spending the next six months hiking through all 14 states of the Appalachian Trail, while exploring little-known paths and outlooks along the way. “Like most things, there is no guidebook or roadmap that could have properly prepared me for how to be alone on this trail adventure,” says Musselman. “It’s the skinned knees, sweaty back, failed summits, and wrong turns that have continued to teach me how to be an outdoors woman and have given me the courage to continue taking on new challenges.”

Part of the hiking officer’s job is to visit each state’s best overlook, as chosen by Devils Backbone Instagram followers. To commemorate the journey, the brewery partnered with artist Dr. Tyler Nordgren to create Savor the View Vienna Lager labels that feature images of the overlooks.

“My three big passions are movement, people, and spending a ton of time outside, which is exactly what the CHO position was offering,” says Musselman. “I have such love for the outdoors and for connecting folks to the things that build them up.”

As for her recommendations for unknown hikes around Charlottesville? “First of all, I love Devil’s Marbleyard for a stunning boulder field climb, the Rivanna Trail for a trail run, or one of the many wineries, breweries, or coffee shops around the C’ville area for a post-hike read,” Musselman says. “Venturing a little further, a trip to Wintergreen, Sky Meadows State Park, Raven Rocks, or Bearfence Mountain are well worth the drive.”

Follow Kristen Musselman on her interstate journey via the brewery’s Instagram @devilsbackbonebrewingcompany.

Love of nature

Starr Hill Brewery is also connecting with the outdoors. The beer maker recently announced its Love Your River campaign, in partnership with the James River Association. For the month of May, one dollar from every six-pack sale of The Love, its unfiltered wheat beer, will go to river cleanup efforts. Additionally, Starr Hill is hosting two designated cleanup days for the James, in Lynchburg on May 2, and in Richmond on May 16. Volunteers will receive a T-shirt and an invitation to a thank-you reception. As the JRA says, “Be a James changer!”

Splendy’s back

C’ville frozen dessert lovers got some good news last week: Splendora’s Gelato is back. Its new brick-and-mortar location in The Shops at Stonefield is not open yet, but gelato (including many classic flavors) is available for pickup or delivery on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. The virtual-for-now shop is also offering a variety of vegan cupcakes, with some of the proceeds going to AAPI Women Lead, which is dedicated to advancing the rights of Asian and Pacific Islander women in the U.S. Check out @splendyscville Instagram to see what gelato flavors are currently on tap, and text (757) 408-0719 to place an order.

Wine-ing back up

Another sign that life is returning to normal, or at least getting close: Market Street Wineshop will welcome shoppers inside beginning May 1. The local mainstay has kept the vino flowing during COVID by maintaining a personal connection with customers, and those services won’t change, says co-owner Sian Richards. “We have customers who drop us a line when they need a restock, and we put together a case of wines to their taste and budget,” she says. “Others ask us to pick out what we think will go with dinner that night, or their weekly menu, and then they just pop by to grab their order curbside.”

Special beer packs, a continuation of virtual wine tastings, and a refresh on the food and cocktail selections are among the reasons to keep your card on file at MSW. To learn more, visit www.marketstwine.com. —Will Ham

Categories
Culture Living

Something to Grouse about

Foodies rejoice! Charlottesville’s high-end dining circuit just got a little larger with the reopening of The Pink Grouse, the signature restaurant at the Quirk Hotel. Initially unveiled along with the hotel in March of 2020, The Pink Grouse’s launch was short-lived due to widespread shutdowns in April. The extra time was used to fine-tune the restaurant’s vision and bring on Chef de Cuisine Dennis Merritt. The result is a contemporary take on American food, driven home by a modern dining room, open kitchen, and creative platings.

Merritt got his start as sous chef at The Clifton, and has spent the last 10 years honing his craft at several of the country’s top restaurants, including Chicago’s Roister. When asked what he was most excited for, regarding his return to Charlottesville, Merritt says, “Being able to show my interpretations of both new and classic dishes.” One example that speaks to the avant-garde spirit of The Pink Grouse is the vivid White Stone oysters topped with coconut, passion fruit mousse, pickled mango, and calabrian chilis.

Keep the Kouign-amann coming

In August, MarieBette Café was awarded a $25,000 grant from Discover’s Eat It Forward program, which supports Black-owned businesses countrywide. It’s no secret that COVID-19 has put tremendous strain on the restaurant industry, especially in Black communities, and the Eat It Forward program aims to protect these “cornerstones of community” by offering awards based on customer nominations. On its Instagram, MarieBette writes, “To say that we are excited for how much this helps us in this difficult time would be an understatement. We are so proud to be part of the Charlottesville community.”

Meet me on the patio

Many of our iconic restaurants have begun to reopen after months of closure, adding or adjusting patio spaces, and dining outside never tasted so good.

Among them is Tavola,* now offering reservations (are pigs flying too?) for limited indoor, plus outdoor dining, where guests can enjoy a new patio along with the much-missed Italian food and wine. Paradox Pastry has repaved its patio into a larger and more accommodating space, and Little Star and Oakhart Social have both tented their spacious outdoor dining areas. Diners have also gained new appreciation for a long list of reopened al fresco spots on the Downtown Mall, including Rapture, The Fitzroy, Chap’s, and Fleurie (check out its beautifully appointed deck!).

New beginnings

Splendora’s, the Downtown Mall gelato café, closed its doors last month after 16 years of creating frozen masterpieces from imaginative ingredients. (We are still dreaming of the Strawberry Pink Peppercorn and the Miso Cherry.)

Owner PK Ross hopes to use this transition as an opportunity to focus on collaborating with other businesses, meaning we may see Splendora’s on some of our favorite menus in the near future. Splendy’s is still offering pickup and delivery through the rest of September, while Ross searches for a new location off the mall. More information can be found on Splendora’s Facebook page.

Bluegrass Grill & Bakery, a favorite brunch spot for locals in the know since 2001, was forced to vacate its downtown location when the pandemic struck. But never fear, the biscuit making will continue. Bluegrass recently partnered with Devils Backbone to operate a pop-up restaurant at The Summit, a repurposed train station on DB’s Roseland property. For the next three months, find BGB’s classic, Southern dishes served by familiar faces, now in the spectacular foothills of the Blue Ridge.

And sadly, BreadWorks Bakery & Deli, which has provided job training and employment to people with disabilities since 1967, will close its doors due to the economic fallout of the coronavirus.—Will Ham

*co-owned by C-VILLE’s Culture editor Tami Keaveny

Categories
Culture Living

Turning the tables: As dining moves to takeout, local restaurants face challenges

Standing in the Chimm dining room, Jay Pun felt a sense of unease. It was the weekend of March 7, and the tables were full of diners noshing on Thai and southeast Asian street food dishes.

“This is really starting to freak me out,” said one of Pun’s employees, who was also surveying the scene. Pun had to agree. COVID-19 was becoming an increasing threat, and it was nearly impossible to look around the dining room without cringing at the sound of a sneeze or a cough, or wondering who among them might be an asymptomatic carrier.

“It’s every restaurateur’s dream to have a packed house, to always have a business going,” says Pun, but that night, the dream started to feel more like a nightmare.

Pun, who co-owns both Chimm and Thai Cuisine & Noodle House, had good reason to worry: Just a few days later, on March 11, the World Health Organization would classify COVID-19 a global pandemic, and a few days after that, on March 16, the City of Charlottesville announced its first confirmed case.

On March 17, Governor Ralph Northam issued a public health emergency order for restaurants to enforce a 10-patron limit, and by March 23, he ordered them closed for service other than takeout and delivery.

Once that mandate came down, eateries had to decide what to do next: Close indefinitely? Expand an existing takeout business? Build a takeout program from the ground up? Lay off employees so they could start collecting unemployment benefits, or try to keep some on in a modified way?

These are not easy decisions to make. The Charlottesville area has a high number of restaurants per capita (not to mention significant wedding and tourism industries), and the restaurant and hospitality industry employs a significant percentage of the local population. Reductions in hours and service options affect thousands of workers and their families.

And while those decisions have varied greatly from restaurant to restaurant, and continue to shift each week, the desired outcome—survival—is the same across the board.

“There are a lot of formats that make sense” in how to maintain a business right now, says Ben Clore, co-owner of Oakhart Social and Little Star, both located on West Main Street. “Every restaurant should do what’s best for them.”

At first, Clore says, they reduced staff and tried takeout (using a combined menu for both places) to clear out the pantry and see how it went. But after weighing potential health and financial risks against benefits and rewards, Clore and his business partners decided that moving to a takeout model just wasn’t worth it. Both spots are closed for now.

Just down the street at Mel’s Café, Mel Walker continues to prepare his full soul food menu. Mel’s has always offered takeout, but the catering and dine-in side of the business “was a lot more money,” says Walker. “It’s not the same money right now. But we’re hanging in there.”

Walker’s had to buy more containers and utensils than he usually does, and says packing to-go orders requires more work than prepping eat-in plates. And as restaurant suppliers start to run out of certain things, most notably fresh meat (a number of America’s largest meat processing plants have had to shut down due to COVID-19 outbreaks among workers), he’s a little worried about being able to get all the ingredients he needs.

Jay Pun’s restaurants, Thai Cuisine & Noodle House and Chimm, already had takeout systems in place, which has helped during the shutdown. Photo: John Robinson

Before the pandemic, Pun estimates between one-quarter and one-third of his restaurants’ business came from takeout orders. “Looking back, I’m glad we had that in place,” says Pun.

Business is doing well enough that he hasn’t had to lay off any employees. And for those who don’t feel comfortable working in the restaurant space, despite everyone wearing masks and gloves and taking extra cleaning precautions (like trading natural products from Method and Seventh Generation for CDC-recommended Lysol and Clorox-type cleaners), Pun’s tried to give them back-end work if they want it.

“So far so good, knock on wood,” says Pun. “I don’t know if it’s a trend, if it will continue, or if it’ll get even busier.”

Other spots, like Moose’s By the Creek in Hogwaller and Ivy Inn on Old Ivy Road, are doing takeout for the first time.

“It’s going as good as it can go,” says Moose’s co-owner Amy Benson. Moose’s now offers its full menu of diner staples, including breakfast, at expanded hours (9am to 5pm Wednesday through Saturday), plus special family-style meals on Sundays. “You just have to find the thing that keeps people coming back,” she says. Demand has been high enough that Benson says she’s been able to keep on all five of Moose’s full-time employees. 

After Moose’s closed its dining room following the weekend of March 15, some regulars pressed to come in in groups of nine or less, but Benson wouldn’t allow it. She adores both her regular customers and her employees, and it wasn’t worth the risk.

“Hopefully we’ll get through this and get going again,” she says.

After initially closing his restaurant, the Ivy Inn’s Angelo Vangelopoulos is now serving takeout Wednesday through Saturday. Photo: John Robinson

Angelo Vangelopoulos closed the Ivy Inn’s dining room after that second weekend in March, too. Like Pun, the chef-owner had a growing sense of unease at seeing his restaurant full of people, and kept thinking, “We’re doing the wrong thing to make this better.”

Vangelopoulos, who’s been with the restaurant since 1995, made the decision to close temporarily. Takeout didn’t seem like an option for the Ivy Inn’s upscale seasonal American cuisine. “We’re not a carry-out restaurant; we’re not equipped for it,” says Vangelopoulos. And he wanted his employees to be able to apply for unemployment as soon as possible. “I knew the line would only get longer,” he says.

“It was one of the toughest days I’ve lived through. We’ve got almost 30 people that rely on us for their well-being and income. And there’s a pretty tight social structure inside a restaurant, too—we consider each other family, we take care of each other. That was really hard, getting the message out to my people.”

But the restaurant was losing $800 every day it remained fully closed, so, as it became clear that stay-at-home directives wouldn’t be ending anytime soon, takeout seemed worth a try. After taking a week to figure out menus and ordering systems, and purchase takeout containers, the Ivy Inn now does carryout four days a week, with a different daily menu, Wednesday through Saturday (Thursday is “Mr. V’s Greek Night,” an homage to Vangelopoulos’ father, who’s now helping out in the kitchen and who owned and ran a restaurant in Springfield for many years).

To keep costs as low as possible, Vangelopoulos and his family are handling everything themselves, and like many restaurant owners, he notes that takeout is even more work than eat-in. There are lots of moving parts, from taking orders to prepping food to texting with customers waiting in the parking lot. “I am not joking you when I say we are working more now than before we closed, and we were open seven days a week,” says Vangelopoulos.

“I’m fully happy running with a lower profit margin at this time to really survive, to keep a little bit of cash flow coming into the checking account,” says Vangelopoulos. It also helps that his landlord has told him not to worry about rent right now.

For PK Ross, owner and flavor virtuoso of Splendora’s Gelato on the Downtown Mall, the COVID-19 pandemic has made her think differently about her business. Immediately after the governor issued the stay-at-home order, she moved to carry-out only and added delivery. She has kept only one employee, her general manager, on the books. “Customers are ordering, but it’s nowhere near our walk-in business,” she says, in part because nobody’s out on the Downtown Mall.

Normally at this time of year, Ross would be making between 18 and 24kg of chocolate gelato per week, one of the shop’s biggest sellers. Last week, she made eight.

“Customers are ordering, but it’s nowhere near our walk-in business,” says PK Ross of Splendora’s. Photo: John Robinson

Even before the pandemic began, Ross had planned to close her Downtown Mall storefront in August. “Holding on until this mess lifts was my initial hope…so that I could have a farewell summer with my customers,” she says. But now she’s thinking of keeping Splendora’s going beyond the summer, in a different spot, and with something close to the model she’s currently operating—a scaled-down shop with more emphasis on delivery.

Even the most seasoned restaurateurs aren’t sure what’s next, and as the pandemic continues, the situation only grows more complicated. Already, one local restaurant—the Downtown Grille—has closed its doors for good. To receive the federal Paycheck Protection Program loans many small businesses are applying for right now, restaurants would have to keep their entire staff on the payroll. But between state unemployment benefits and the additional $600 per week federal benefit, many workers who have been able to qualify are making more direct income on unemployment than they would in a restaurant. And even if restaurants are allowed to open in the next few months, customers, servers, and cooks still might not feel safe congregating in dining rooms and kitchens.

At this point, it’s impossible to know what the industry will look like in even a few months. But for now, many are grateful for the community support they’ve received, both from the funds set up to help their employees, and from takeout orders. Pun notes that “people are so much kinder than they ever were, which has been awesome.” Even in the best of times, customers typically don’t tip enough or at all on takeout, but Pun’s noticed that lately, folks are tipping the standard 15 to 20 percent, if not more.

And Walker’s glad he can maintain relationships with his loyal customers, relationships he’s established through reliably serving hamburgers, fried chicken, cornbread, and collards for years. “I want the whole community to know how much I appreciate the support. I want everyone to stay safe and try to do the best they can to get through this,” he says. “I’ve been in the restaurant business a long time, and ain’t nobody seen anything like this before.”


Walter Slawski (of Shebeen Pub & Braai and The Catering Outfit) has worked with Sysco Food Service of Virginia to establish a twice-weekly food pantry for laid-off restaurant and hospitality workers. Photo: John Robinson

Feeding the cooks

South African eatery Shebeen Pub & Braai and its sister restaurant/catering biz The Catering Outfit are among the local spots that have stayed open, serving takeout and chef-prepared meal kit offerings. And in a partnership with Sysco Food Service of Virginia, they’ve also opened a food pantry to help unemployed restaurant workers (including some of their own) stock their home kitchens.

“I know what my employees are going through,” says Shebeen and Catering Outfit owner Walter Slawski. “Not only are we trying to create revenue streams” to pay them if they want to work right now, “we’re trying to help people.”

Sysco’s provided more than $25,000 worth of groceries, says Slawski, and they’re relying on private donations from the community, too. So far they’ve given out more than $32,000 worth of food to over 1,000 food service and event workers.

The pantry is open Mondays and Thursdays from 11am to 2pm in the Shebeen parking lot, and what’s in each pre-packed bag varies from pickup to pickup. Sometimes it’s a lot of dry goods and refrigerator items like cold cuts, bacon, and juice, or fruit like bananas and oranges. One week, LittleJohns donated bags of potato chips and bread. Sysco’s donations are a little more on the wild side—five-pound bags of macaroni, for instance—but Slawski says there’s been nothing but gratitude.

Any restaurant and hospitality industry worker can visit the pantry, which Slawski says operates on an honor system: People will be asked where they work, or used to work, prior to the pandemic, but that’s it. “We don’t turn anybody away.”

 

Categories
Living

Out & about: Food, fun, and philanthropy

Ready to take a breather after the holiday bustle? Sorry—no rest for the weary. Besides, you’ll feel better if you get up and go, go, go with so many good things on tap.

That’s alotta gelato

Forget resolutions, there’s endless gelato to be had. Continuing a tradition started in 2007, Splendora’s Gelato offers all you can eat for $10 a person every Wednesday in January and February, starting Wednesday, January 8. There are a few rules (no re-entry, no sharing, and only one scoop at a time!) but this is still a solid deal. The record for one person is 36 scoops in two hours. Can you say “froze brain”? 317 E. Main St., 296-8555, splendoras.com

Buy one, give one

Eat well and give back at the same time at Great Harvest Bread Company. For every loaf of honey whole wheat bread you buy this month, owners Aileen and Michael Magnotto will donate one to The Haven. Also in January, sign up for one of the bakery’s Knead & Sip events (beer, wine, and bread—nice combo), and 20 percent of the $35 class fee will support The Salvation Army’s Soup Kitchen. 1701 Allied Ln., 202-7813, greatharvestcville.com

What the Belle?

Opened last April, Belmont’s Belle endeared itself to customers with its bright digs, luscious lattes, wine happy hours, and short-but-solid casual menu. But owner Andy McClure is aiming higher, partnering with brothers John and Scott Shanesy to add dinner to the mix, increase bread and pastry options, and revamp the breakfast and lunch menu. The Shanesy duo brings experience from restaurants in Charlottesville, Charleston, and New York City. Now closed for renovation, Belle is due to reopen January 15.

Two words: rare mezcal

Mezcal, tequila’s trendy cousin, has been rising in popularity on bar menus in recent years. Whether you’ve never tried it before or just want to keep trying more, head to the The Bebedero at 6pm, Wednesday, January 15, when barkeeps will pull the rarest mezcal off the shelf (like, normally $50 a shot rare) and serve samples to all who pony up the $50 entry fee. Email thebebedero@gmail.com for tickets. 225 W. Main St., Downtown Mall, 234-3763, thebebedero.com

Waterbird hits the bottle

In other booze news, Waterbird Spirits recently announced that the premium potato vodka used to make its canned cocktails will be available in liquor stores early this year. Sounds like a perfect addition for your bar cart.

Editor’s Pick: Self-care

Common Ground Healing Arts kicked off its New Year Class Series on January 6, offering a prime opportunity to jump-start your resolutions to take better care of yourself and engage more with the community in 2020. Held once a week for six weeks, the sessions operate on a pay-what-you-can basis, inviting participation in any of 16 classes, from gentle to “radically restorative” yoga, and mental exercises such as Mindful Communication Toward Racial Justice. Carver Recreation Center at The Jefferson School City Center, 233 Fourth St. NW, 218-7677, commongroundcville.org

Looking ahead

Just announced: Celebrated local chef Ian Redshaw (formerly of Lampo and Prime 109) returns to the kitchen at The Happy Cook’s newly expanded cooking school on Wednesday, March 11, 6-8pm, sharing his secrets for making fresh filled pasta (ramp agnolotti with beurre blanc) from scratch. This is a hot ticket, so book fast for a spot at the table. $75 per person. Barracks Road Shopping Center, 977-2665, thehappycook.com • Feeling crafty? Expand your repertoire with a workshop at The Hive. The brush-lettering basics class takes place 7-9pm Thursday, January 23, and hand-knitted pillow instruction will be offered 2-4pm Saturday, January 25. $65 and $50 per person, respectively. 1747 Allied St. Suite K, 253-0906, thehivecville.com • Get your steps in with a Ragged Mountain Reservoir Hike hosted by Wild Virginia. Starting at 10am Sunday, January 26, the seven-mile loop should take approximately five hours, including a break for BYO lunch. Free, but registration is required at bit.ly/ragged-hike. 1730 Reservoir Rd., contact Dave Carey (dcarey@his.com) for more info

Categories
Living

Seasonal rotation sparks creativity for local chefs

Why do summer and fall harvests get all the food love around here? Sure, there are peaches and berries and juicy tomatoes, and beers to pair with tacos to be eaten outside. But winter offers a pretty flavorful bounty that allows chefs to indulge in all that our farms have to offer: leafy greens, Brussels sprouts, squash, kohlrabi, radishes, mushrooms, trout, beef shanks and much more. “We’re so fortunate to live in an area where it’s possible to obtain impeccable local produce during all four seasons,” says Rachel Gendreau, general manager at Bizou, where winter ingredients make up most of the current menu.

But for some, the winter months are challenging, so it’s a chance for them to get creative in the kitchen, incorporating cozy flavors, fanciful techniques and vintage recipes to keep us all happy and well-fed during these hibernating months. Here’s what a few area chefs and bakers have to offer this season.

Bizou

At Bizou, co-owner and executive chef Vincent Derquenne creates much of his winter menu from local farms’ bounty.

He uses grey dove oyster mushrooms from Ryan Ferguson’s Bear Dog Farm here in Charlottesville in a number of lunch and dinner dishes like hand-cut truffle gnocchi and crispy pan-seared rainbow trout from Ellen Nagase’s Rag Mountain Trout. The mushrooms “are almost other-worldly in appearance—perfectly formed, velvety in texture with a luminous gray hue,” says Gendreau.

In the colder months, Derquenne slow-braises beef shanks from Seven Hills Food Company, serving them pot-roast style with pan jus, roasted root vegetables and creamy polenta. There’s pork shoulder from Buckingham Berkshires, which Derquenne and the rest of his culinary team use to make, cure and smoke all of Bizou’s sausage and charcuterie in-house.

Gendreau says that Derquenne also relies heavily on winter produce and eggs from Wayside Produce. “We typically buy an array of whatever the Mason family has available each week, which lately has included delicata squash, kohlrabi, spinach, lacinato kale, hakurei turnips, watermelon radishes, red rain mizuna greens and fresh pastured eggs.” Derquenne sautés the winter greens with turnips, radishes and shaved garlic as a nourishing set-up for the fish specials. Bizou also offers winter squashes stuffed with coconut curried vegetables and quinoa pilaf, and winter salads with kohlrabi shaved over Brussels sprouts and Fuji apples tossed with fresh persimmon, candied walnuts and vegan Dijon mustard vinaigrette.

The Pie Chest

“The winter menu has been the most difficult one to assemble,” says Rachel Pennington, head baker at The Pie Chest and The Whiskey Jar, and it’s not just for variety: “I’ve found it has taken time to get some customers used to the fact that we are sticking to the seasons for better or worse—no blueberries in December,” she says.

Pennington approaches winter pie-baking by selecting what’s in season—apples, cranberries, butternut squash, root vegetables—and varying those themes. For example, she says, cranberries appear in an apple pie, a white chocolate cream pie and in a savory butternut squash and béchamel pot pie.

But it’s not all about the produce: Pennington has embraced the “desperation pie”—desserts that use simple, easy-access and common ingredients like eggs, sugar, buttermilk and vinegar to make, say, an egg custard or maple chess pie (both of which appear on The Pie Chest winter menu).

When creating the winter menu, Pennington also asked herself, “What brings comfort? It’s cold, so what would be a comforting thing to eat?” These questions led to the creation of the peanut butter jam pie (with homemade jams made from canned summer fruits), oatmeal chocolate chip pie (basically a rich, gooey, deep-dish cookie) and the sausage, biscuit and gravy savory pie, topped with a biscuit instead of a traditional pie crust. Pennington says that most customers dump that one upside-down onto a plate, smothering the biscuit in warm gravy.

Splendora’s

“I mostly hate winter because it means pants and shoes,” says PK Ross, owner and gelato goddess at Splendora’s Gelato, “but I’m coming around to what it has to offer flavor-wise,” especially as far as citrus flavors and boozy infusions go.

“I’m definitely not getting scurvy this year,” she jokes. She gives a roasted almond orange vanilla gelato a “heady orange bite” by peeling oranges with as little pith as possible, then blanching them over and over before cooking them down in their juice and sugars. Ross says she learned that technique from The Alley Light’s bar manager, Micah LeMon, who learned the technique from former Alley Light chef Jose De Brito, who she imagines learned from “a fancy French chef.”

She’s also chopping oven-candied blood orange slices into a fennel-based gelato—“the blood orange slices, when done right, gain a cracker-like consistency,” Ross says (she’s eaten them with cheese)—for her pint club. In addition, she’s experimenting with preserved lemons, cooking the peels to pull most of the bitterness from the pith while preserving the citric nature of the lemon. “At the moment, I have Meyer lemons curing naked and then a wackadoo set of lemons where the cure is salt, sugar and espresso grinds” that’ll make their way into gelato.

Citrus not your thing? Ross is angling to create bourbon/whiskey in tea and stout flavors, and she’s been soaking golden raisins in Los Amantes Mezcal Joven since November. That mezcal raisin flavor, which has a hint of smokiness undercut by the sweetness of the raisins, is in Splendora’s case right now.

Categories
Living

Littlejohn’s opens a Pro Re Nata outpost

Fans of Littlejohn’s New York Delicatessen can now enjoy a Chris Long sub, Bum Steer and Five Easy Pieces at Pro Re Nata Farm Brewery on Rockfish Gap Turnpike in Crozet. The restaurant operates out of a Pro Re Nata-owned food truck on the brewery property, providing food to patrons and offering both pick-up and delivery services to the Crozet community. Littlejohn’s Restaurants Inc. president Colleen Morrissey says customers can choose from a menu that includes the most popular sandwiches and subs from Littlejohn’s location on the UVA Corner, plus smaller snacks, burgers and fries.

Littlejohn’s at ProReNata also offers weekend specials such as sandwiches made with, or made to pair with, one of the brewery’s beers. “Our team is having fun being creative and reacting to the customers’ requests,” Morrissey says. “We’re changing the menu periodically to reflect the requests we receive.”

Chopt, chopt

First, the Corner got Roots Natural Kitchen. Then The Salad Maker opened downtown. Now, Chopt is set to move into the former Ruby Tuesday space at Barracks Road Shopping Center in the second half of 2017.

The chain, which has multiple locations in New York, North Carolina and in the Washington, D.C., area, says on its website that its fresh salads “push the boundaries of what a salad can be, looking ahead to a future where vegetable eating—and better fast food—is the norm.”

According to a Chopt representative, the restaurant will be company owned and operated.

“At Chopt, we believe that we are part of a movement to change the way America eats, and have always looked to forward-thinking students and communities as our partners,” the representative says, citing Charlottesville’s reputation as an “open-minded, health-oriented” community of foodies as a reason for the chain opening a spot here.

Cheese, please

We’ve got plenty of burger joints here in town, but Phil’s Steaks, currently building out the former Dunkin’ Donuts/Baskin Robbins spot at 1509 University Ave. on the Corner, is hoping to steer Charlottesville toward a different beef-consumption method: the Philly cheesesteak.

Phil’s head chef and co-owner Kevin McConnell and two of his friends started Phil’s, a New York City-based food truck, five years ago. Though the truck has a modest menu, offering only authentic cheesesteaks, made with tender sirloin steak, mushrooms and onions, served on bread from Philadelphia’s Amoroso’s Baking Company and smothered in either Cheez Whiz, white American or provolone cheese, and twice-fried fries, it made a name for itself.

McConnell says this first brick-and-mortar Phil’s Steaks location, set to open in mid-March, will be a lunch and late-night spot that caters to the college crowd, serving the truck’s staples plus a few new options like chicken steaks, veggie steaks and onion rings.

Cold spell

Splendora’s is again offering all-you-can-eat gelato Wednesdays during January and February. Fork over $10 and you’ll get scoop after scoop, so long as you follow these rules:

1. No cup sharing.

2. You must stay in Splendora’s—no leaving and coming back.

3. You will get a new cup for every scoop, but keep your spoon.

4. Please don’t have food delivered to Splendora’s

5. Don’t eat so much you die or vomit.