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Knife & Fork

New grist: Boar’s Head Resort ups its food game with refreshed Old Mill Room

One name has long been absent from discussions of Charlottesville’s great restaurants: The Old Mill Room at the Boar’s Head Resort. Once a local standard bearer for high-end cuisine, the hotel dining room was overtaken during the past decade by a growing collection of top-tier local eateries with a fresher, trendier feel.

The Boar’s Head team hopes to change that with a recent resort-wide renovation featuring significant changes to the lobby restaurant, now known simply as The Mill Room.

Chef Dale Ford’s menu draws heavily from local suppliers, including the student-run gardens at UVA’s Morven Farm. Photo: Jack Looney

The history of the Boar’s Head dates back to 1834, when an advisor of Thomas Jefferson’s built a mill on the banks of the Hardware River. More than 100 years later, the mill would inspire and provide building material for the resort’s flagship restaurant.

Over the years, the Boar’s Head Resort and venerable Old Mill Room became destinations for Charlottesvillians and travelers alike. In 1987, the restaurant earned the AAA Four Diamond rating, and in 2001, the resort was named to the list of Historic Hotels of America.

But according to resort marketing manager Joe Hanning, the Old Mill Room and hotel surrounding it “started to look dated.” Modern travelers found the space wasn’t conducive to their lifestyle and pace, he says. “We have everyone from millennials to senior citizens, and we wanted a space they could enjoy equally,” he says.

The goal of the renovation, started in early 2018, was to maintain the Boar’s Head’s old-world charm while adding modern amenities. The Mill Room still features the massive, hand-hewn, heart-pine beams taken from the Hardware River mill, as well as the original hardwood floors, while new glass walls let in more natural light and provide views of the lakes and hills behind the resort.

“The Old Mill Room was too closed off,” Hanning says. “We still have the same spaces, but they have been reimagined.”

The focus on quality ingredients and Southern cuisine has remained, but the new Mill Room highlights local ingredients as never before. The resort now includes an on-site hydroponic garden in the old Trout House space, from which all greens on the menu are harvested. “We like to say you can skip the farm and go straight to the table,” Hanning says.

Mill Room Chef Dale Ford, who’s anchored the Boar’s Head culinary team since 2016, says he takes pride in caring for and serving produce from the Trout House garden. He and his team spend time every day tending to the plants, of which there are currently 16 varieties—fresh edible flowers, herbs, kale, and nasturtiums.

“We have 300 heads of lettuce ready to harvest,” Ford says. “The space is big enough to totally sustain the Mill Room’s greens.”

The goal of the renovation, started in early 2018, was to maintain the Boar’s Head’s old-world charm while adding modern amenities. In the Mill Room’s informal dining area, the inn’s original hand-hewn pine beams, dating to 1834, add a rustic touch. Photo: Jack Looney

The fish-free Trout House salad, in which every item is taken from the garden, is a regular feature at the Mill Room. Ford says he plans to rotate menus about four times per year and offer a vegan special nightly. In addition to his own hydroponic farm, he’s developed a close relationship with surrounding produce and protein purveyors. For instance, he sources heritage pork from Autumn Olive Farms, near Waynesboro, and organic produce from Rockingham County’s Wayside Farm. A unique partnership with UVA’s Morven Farm, where students cultivate an acre of vegetables, also provides Ford with such items as pickling cucumbers, fiery peppers for his housemade hot sauce, and fleeting seasonal ingredients like garlic scaps. “At no other time in my career has a farmer come to me and said, ‘Chef, what do you want me to plant for you?’” Ford says.

Paired with the Mill Room’s seasonal flavors are 14 beer taps—a collaboration with Three Notch’d Brewing Company will soon flow from one—classic cocktails, and a thorough wine list of local favorites, value picks, and high-end Napa and Bordeaux varietals.

The Boar’s Head and Mill Room renovation hasn’t been without flare ups. Construction took longer than management anticipated, and early reviews and online commentary haven’t all been kind. Folks longing for the resort’s classic nostalgia have been a noisy group, while others complained the new menu plays it safe. But Ford and Hanning are optimistic about the Mill Room’s future.

“We are a Four Diamond restaurant, and we’ll continue to offer Four Diamond quality and service,” Hanning says. “It’s all about good American fare.”

Categories
Opinion The Editor's Desk

This Week, 7/24

In almost six years of living in Charlottesville, I’ve had two noteworthy encounters with the police.

The first time was several years ago, when I left my wallet on the curb in Woolen Mills (don’t ask). A CPD officer not only noticed it and picked it up, he found my email address online and then delivered the wallet to my front door that night. He saved me a trip to the station and both of us the hassle of paperwork, and waved away my effusive thanks.

The second time was August 12, 2017, when I watched a gang of white supremacists attack a woman standing near me on the sidewalk in front of the Methodist church, and ran to the nearest cop for help. It was 9 in the morning, and the church’s parking lot was supposed to be a safe space.

“Aren’t you going to do something?” I asked, panicked. “I’m not getting involved in that,”the female officer told me, shaking her head. “There’s guys down there,” she added, indicating the heavily-outfitted Virginia State Police massed at the end of the block. “They’ll handle it.”

They didn’t. When the young men in the white T-shirts pulled away, the woman was on the ground with blood pouring from her head. The attackers bounded off through the parking lot, practically skipping, exultant and gleeful. Nobody stopped them.

“I can see where the department or law enforcement may not have lived up to the expectations of the community,” Charlottesville Police Chief RaShall Brackney tells us about August 12.

She didn’t work here then, and she’s not to blame for what happened. But she is responsible for repairing the trust that the department lost that day. One of the most basic places to start is the Police Civilian Review Board, but Brackney says she doesn’t understand the need for the board, and her relationship with it has been contentious.

Bridging the gap between my two stories, between two very different images of the police, may be an impossible task, and the verbal abuse Brackney has suffered as the public face of the department would be hard for anyone to deal with. But until the police show real accountability for their failures and a real willingness to listen to those who have been hurt, that public anger isn’t likely to go away.

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News

Guilty plea: Paige Rice agrees to misdemeanor in embezzlement case

Carolyn Paige Rice, a former Charlottesville chief of staff and clerk of council, pleaded guilty to a misdemeanor embezzlement charge Wednesday for failing to return an iPhone X and Apple Watch that were paid for by the city during her tenure.

As part of the plea agreement, Rice was charged with a misdemeanor instead of a felony and was sentenced to six months in prison; the sentence is suspended two years with the opportunity for her to avoid doing time contingent on good behavior. Rice, 37, is also required to complete 200 hours of community service.

“We [originally] charged it as a felony because [reducing] a charge shouldn’t have happened behind closed doors,” Charlottesville Commonwealth’s Attorney Joe Platania says. “We wanted it to be transparent and wanted the public to see what the initial charge was. A grand jury heard the evidence and then it got reduced in a public open courtroom so transparency was very important to me as part of this process.”

Rice resigned from her post in September, citing a pay cut she received just two months after the city gave her a raise. Her last day as a city employee was October 5, when Platania says she also called AT&T and asked for her iPhone to be unlocked so that she could switch it to another provider.

Four days later, Brian Wheeler, Charlottesville director of communications, contacted Rice to ask for the watch, phone, and an iPad to be returned. Rice told Wheeler that the screen on the iPhone was broken and had no trade-in value, and that she’d paid for the Apple Watch herself.

In an email conversation between Wheeler and Rice later that week, Rice claimed that she’d mailed the iPhone in to AT&T’s recycling program but agreed to return the iPad. Wheeler tried to confirm with AT&T that the phone had been received.The cell phone provider told him in late December that it had been transferred to Verizon and was never returned.

The Charlottesville Police Department opened up a criminal investigation in January and found that the phone had been added to the Verizon account of Carol Barfield, Rice’s mother. Wheeler also located a December 2017 AT&T bill that confirmed the Apple Watch was purchased by the city itself.

CPD obtained a search warrant March 14 for Rice’s home and confronted her that day. When Detective David Stutzman approached Rice, she was wearing the Apple Watch and using the iPhone X. A month later, she admitted to police that she had not paid for the watch nor did the phone screen break.

A grand jury indicted Rice on felony embezzlement charges June 7 but her attorney was able to negotiate the charge being lowered to a misdemeanor as part of the plea agreement. Rice, who’s now the chief of staff of the Focused Ultrasound Foundation, declined to comment through her lawyer Andrew Sneathern.

Rice’s made $72,842 as clerk of council, and her salary was raised to $98,328 as clerk and chief of staff before the pay cut. Platania says Rice’s motive for keeping the devices is “unclear” but that the city felt it needed to pursue a criminal investigation because “there were multiple attempts made to get the devices back and the requests to have it returned were not met with truthful responses, and so we sort of didn’t feel like we had any other options.”

Categories
Arts

Album reviews: Resavoir, Black Pumas, Lil Nas X, Kylie Minogue, Elephant9, and Various artists

Resavoir

Resavoir (International Anthem)

It goes down smooth and it’s jazz, but it isn’t smooth jazz. Members of Chicago collective Resavoir have played with Chance the Rapper, Noname, and Mavis Staples, and the band maps a similar wholesomeness onto these nine pithy originals that don’t just walk the classic/fresh tightrope, but live directly on it. The ensemble meshes beautifully, and trumpeter/bandleader Will Miller’s songs seem to emanate from some chirpy city park on a sunny afternoon, year unknown. [8.3]

https://intlanthem.bandcamp.com/album/resavoir

Black Pumas

Black Pumas (ATO)

Something more explicitly retro comes from Austin’s Black Pumas—they’re on locally connected ATO Records, though they sure sound like a Daptone band with their classic soul songs and crisp, minimal production (by guitarist Adrian Quesada, who’s played with artists from Grupo Fantasma to Prince). The tried-and-true instrumental textures are animated by powerhouse vocalist Eric Burton, who croons and belts with range and authority. The Pumas’ live show gets glowing reviews, and we’ll have a chance to see what’s up on September 11 at the Southern. [7.6]

https://blackpumas.bandcamp.com/

Various artists

1977: The Year Punk Broke (Cherry Red)

Can there be any need for another punk compilation? Cherry Red makes a great argument with 1977, focusing chronologically and geographically on a 3-disc, 87-song motherlode that tracks the UK/Ireland explosion month-for-month. All but the hoariest punkers will hear much of this for the first time; a few perennials are buried amidst the likes of The Stukas and Some Chicken. 1977 transmits the feeling of witnessing the magnificent cascade of refusal that spattered the year of “The Queen’s Jubilee” and Rumours. [8.7]

https://www.facebook.com/CherryRedRecords/videos/723381098116952/

Lil Nas X

7 (Sony)

Boasting the music-biz story of the year plus arguably the song of the year, Lil Nas X lowers the stakes for his debut by making it a quickie, at just 18 minutes and seven tunes (eight if you count the Billy Ray Cyrus-abetted remix of “Old Town Road”). As a vocalist, Lil Nas X is an unassuming sweetheart, but the songs here are as lightweight as his smash single without the offhand charm. Still, the Nirvana crib “Bring U Down” shows that X has open ears, and the wonky drum track on “C7osure” suggests his taste for the artlessly idiosyncratic—good signs. [6.6]

Kylie Minogue

Step Back In Time: The Definitive Collection (BMG)

Despite countless global hits, Kylie Minogue has suffered comparisons with Madonna, pegged as an imitator and a pop puppet opposite Madonna’s industry empress. This abridges the story—Minogue ditched writing/producing svengalis Stock Aitken Waterman early on, increasingly asserting herself lyrically and in the studio. And, musically, Minogue has kicked Madonna’s ass for at least twenty years. Step Back In Time jumps around chronologically, putting Minogue’s later, better stuff on disc 1 and filling disc 2 with her earlier, fluffier stuff. Not that any of it’s heavy, of course—but as dance-pop candy goes, it doesn’t get any sweeter. [8.7]

https://kylie.lnk.to/backintimeID

Elephant9

Psychedelic Backfire I & II (Rune Grammofon)

Two albums of live, molten jazz-rock from Norwegian trio Elephant9. Swing and soul are nowhere to be found as drummer Torstein Loftus whips up demonic grooves while bassist Nikolai Haengsle races alongside and organist Stale Storlokken emits skronky, overdriven solos from his own quasar. Dungen guitarist Reine Fiske brings some delicacy to II, notably on a cover of “You Are the Sunshine of My Life” (!), but it’s still a monster. To call Elephant9 Medeski-meets-Mahavishnu hints at the band’s chops but severely undersells its obliterating power. Horrible noise lives! [8.8/9.0]

Categories
Living

Veritas branches out: Wide distribution planned for new brand True Heritage

Afton’s Veritas Vineyard & Winery has announced the launch of a new label, True Heritage. Breaking away from the traditional Virginia winery model (mostly on-site and local sales), True Heritage will focus on wider distribution to both meet and increase demand for the Commonwealth’s reds and whites. The rollout targets retail outlets and restaurants in North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, and Tennessee. But Veritas CEO George Hodson and head winemaker Emily Pelton say the ultimate goal is to reach national and even international markets.

The brand name is a humblebrag
about Virginia’s place in U.S. winemaking history. As the True Heritage website notes, Jamestown settlers planted vines in 1609, and the first American vineyard—with 85 acres under cultivation—sprang up in Williamsburg in 1619, a full 160 years before missionaries put vines in the ground in California.

Today, Virginia bottles a fraction of the wine that industry-leading California does. But critics have noted a marked improvement in the quality of the vintages produced here, and True Heritage aims to capitalize on this. Planted on the historic Keswick estates Castalia and Ben Coolyn, 50 acres of vines currently produce grapes for True Heritage, and 150 more vineyard acres are planned.

United we eat

In October 2017, about 700 people attended the United Way’s first Community Table at the Jefferson School City Center, where they reflected on the violent white supremacist rallies of August 11 and 12. The third Community Table event—part of the city’s Unity Days—is a free event that takes place from 6-9pm on August 8 at IX Art Park. Attendees will gather for guided but casual conversation over a family-style meal by Harvest Moon Catering. “We all know that sharing a meal is one of the best ways to create new relationships,” says Caroline Emerson, United Way vice president for community engagement. “Getting to know each other can lead to greater awareness and understanding.” Register by emailing acommunitytable@unitedwaytja.org. Seating is limited, and attendance is determined by a lottery.

Just peachy

Nothing says summer quite like homemade ice cream, especially when it’s of the peach variety. For the past 35 years, Chiles Peach Orchard has donated peaches to the Crozet Lions Club, which then uses the freshly-picked fruit to make the creamy frozen stuff. Get a taste at the peach orchard from 9am-6pm on August 3, and 10am-6pm on August 4. All sales benefit the Crozet and Western Albemarle community. 1351 Greenwood Rd., 823-1583, chilesfamilyorchards.com.

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Uncategorized

The figs of Fifeville: The neighborhood’s secret bounty ripens in the summer heat

My first intoxicating taste of a freshly picked fig took place in the formal garden at Villa Vignamaggio, in Tuscany. Frozen in Renaissance times, the setting had a surreal beauty to it, the kind you see in period pieces—like 1993’s Much Ado About Nothing, which was filmed at Vignamaggio. The villa’s owner, a lawyer from Rome, reached up into the tree, plucked a ripe fruit, and asked, “Would you like a fig?”

Following his example, I held the stem with my fingertips and bit into the flesh of the green-skinned bulb. I had grown up on Fig Newtons, with their chalky pastry wrapped around a too-sweet gummy filling, and I had sampled figs in fancy New York restaurants, usually with a bit of goat cheese and a balsamic-vinegar reduction. But the musk-and-honey flavor that filled my mouth at Vignamaggio made my eyes roll back in my head. I knew the experience could never be replicated. I feared no fig would ever taste as good.

Then I came to Charlottesville. And on a typically steamy summer day, I sat with my sister on the back porch of her house in Fifeville, drinking cold white wine in the hot air.

“Wanna go pick some figs?” she asked.

“Where, in Italy?” I replied.

“Nope,” she said. “Right up the street.”

I took the last swig from my glass, my sister grabbed a little wire basket, and within minutes we were gently pulling soft little orbs from the branches of a sprawling tree near the corner of Fifth and West Main streets. I looked around furtively, afraid that we’d be arrested. Even though the tree stood on the property of a shuttered restaurant, the angel on my shoulder told me we were trespassing and stealing.

“It’s okay,” she said. “Just pick.”

As I have discovered since then, fig trees thrive in Fifeville. The one near Fifth and Main became a popular community resource, but the owners of Little Star removed it last year because it was crowding their outdoor dining space (bummer). Walk along Fifth, Dice, Sixth, Sixth-and-a-Half, and Seventh streets, and you will see at least a dozen fig trees, tucked up against houses, looming by sidewalks, peeking over fence tops. Out of public view, in residents’ yards, even more figs grow. In mid-July most of the fruit is green, hard, and no bigger than your thumb. But as July stretches into August, the figs swell and ripen—the green skin showing a little purple—and the Fifeville fig harvest commences.

Devin Floyd, founder and director of Charlottesville’s Center for Urban Habitats, confirms that the fruit trees thrive in certain pockets of the city, including Fifeville and Belmont, where “marginally Mediterranean” growing conditions exist. This may be because of the sparse shade and sloping terrain, which drains well. “[Fig trees] need a dry and hot microclimate to do best,” Floyd wrote in an email. “I planted one in a south-facing lawn in Belmont. Ten years later, it is still kicking.”

Floyd is quick to point out that figs are a non-native species. Many sources cite California as the birthplace of the fig industry in America, but the fruit’s history there is rocky. In 1881, thousands of cuttings of the Smyrna variety were imported to the Golden State from Turkey. However, the trees bore no fruit until 1899, when the fig wasp, shipped in from the Middle East, performed the pollination that the Smyrna requires in order to produce.

Meanwhile, in Charlottesville, figs were already growing, thanks to—you guessed it—Thomas Jefferson. Touring the south of France in 1787, he wrote, “The most delicate figs known in Europe are those growing about this place.” Two years later, he received and planted 44 cuttings from France—including the Marseilles variety, which is the most common in Fifeville and does not require pollination by a wasp to bear fruit. Through sharing with local and out-of-state friends, Jefferson became the Johnny Apple Seed of figs.

Having collected about five pounds of fruit from the Fifth Street tree, my sister and I scurried home. She pulled a disc of Pillsbury pie dough from the refrigerator and set it on a cookie sheet. She smeared the dough with several tablespoons of apricot preserves (she said she sometimes uses lemon curd, instead), cut the figs into quarters, and arranged them in concentric circles atop the jam. After crimping the edges of the dough, she baked the galette (oh, so French!), and mouth-watering aromas wafted out of the kitchen.

The experience was unexpectedly moving. My body was in Fifeville, but my mind traveled to a villa in Tuscany.

Fig trees thrive in certain pockets of the city, including Fifeville and Belmont, where “marginally Mediterranean” growing conditions exist.

Through sharing with local and out-of-state friends, Jefferson became the Johnny Apple Seed of figs.

Categories
Arts

ARTS PICK: Albemarle County Fair

Fair play: Care to learn the ins and outs of weaving, snuggle up with a bunny, or test your skills in a cornhole tournament? In its 38th year of operation, the Albemarle County Fair will feature classes, demonstrations, livestock shows, and outdoor games for all ages, along with classic eats like fried dough and candy apples. The music stage will showcase area bluegrass veterans including Eddie Deane and the Deane Family, Glory Road Band, and The Virginia Ramblers.

Through 7/27. $5, times vary. James Monroe’s Highland, 2050 James Monroe Pkwy. www.albemarlecountyfair.com.

 

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Arts

ARTS PICK: Chris Isaak

Wicked ways: Chris Isaak performs from his 30-year career, including his mega-hit “Wicked Game” and songs from the critically acclaimed 2015 album First Comes the Night. Nicknamed the “Elvis of the ’90s,” Isaak can be an emotional storyteller  or an edgy rocker, but he always woos the crowd with authority. Tift Merritt opens the show.

Thursday 7/25. $30-69, 7pm. Sprint Pavilion, 700 E. Main St. 877-CPAV-TIX.

Categories
Arts

It’s complicated: The exquisite perils of Peter Allen’s self-discovery

A confession: I’m not adequately prepared to discuss Peter Allen’s “Un-becoming” show at McGuffey Art Center with the level of insight both the artist and his art deserve.

I certainly spent plenty of preparatory time and afforded the exhibition my contemplative attention. No, this is just a shortcoming of my own faculties—the same dearth that surely plagues the stupefied majority of Allen’s audiences. For there exists a gap of confounding distance between the viewer and the disarmingly tight collection of striking, illuminating, and unflinching personal visions alighting the walls of the Sarah B. Smith Gallery. For seven pieces, there is much to digest and decode.

I’ll liken my feeling of ineptitude to those moments when, reading an article, you pause to look up some referenced concept with which you’re unfamiliar; then, two minutes later, you find yourself on Wikipedia reading its definition for the fifth time, starting to question if it’s actually written in English, convinced that you know less after this fruitless endeavor than when you started, and cursing yourself for having dicked around so much during formative middle school math and science classes.

This is the overwhelming effect of Allen’s brilliance in visual art and poetry. To my great satisfaction, the artist’s statement and the ideas he’s shared about his creations demonstrate profound meaning. See, for a dummy like me, it’s a little intimidating.

Allen, a McGuffey member since 2011, says that his penciled paper and canvas pieces contend with “the nature of the self and the pressures of context.” His autobiographical discoveries invite viewers to consider their own identities, too. This lofty impulse is advanced through an upcycling of public domain, commercial, and personal images, recontextualized in graphite. He then couples his visuals with hand-cut, stenciled letters on a grid, spelling out his poetry in vertical streaks without space between the lines, often mirroring itself in a backward orientation. Though difficult to read, Allen accurately notes that his texts, which harbor some likely unintentional resemblance to Gee Vaucher’s protest art for anarcho-punk band Crass, look “at once ancient and modern.”

These bi-media pieces require us to consider the meaning of the words, as well as the images. There is little doubt that a casual Friday night art crawl won’t suffice, nor will the half-buzzed gallery stroll-through that might otherwise do the job for art proffered without paired poems. This takes time. Muttering your knee-jerk Rorschach test appraisals to the person next to you won’t cut it here.

Check out the titles—even they demand explanation: “Sequela,” “Scotoma,” “Albedo,” “Anamorph.” The good news is that, for three dollars, you can get a chapbook of sorts, where conventional presentations of Allen’s poetry are served with definitions of the unfamiliar language he’s chosen for his works’ names. Honestly, his verse provides more shocking imagery than his visuals, ornamented with terrors like deformed spider parent domination, town-crushing giants from childhood, and a recurring theme of relatives performing mutilations on each other.

The sinister elements that arise in his penciled canvases are more muted: an arrogant bather tilting aggressively in the surf, the confrontational gaze of a man among a gaggle of unhappy children, a stunned Red Riding Hood scrutinizing a contented wolf dozing in her grandmother’s clothing.

The show’s first piece, “Sequela,” features a type of self-portrait bust bisected by a vertical stream of text; the subject wears an unsettling white paper mask with holes for the eyes, nose, and mouth. The mask itself hangs on the backside of the wall above the poem, “Vault.” The three-part text tells of wandering into a dense forest, referencing wolves and birds, animals that reappear in the aforementioned fable piece “Albedo,” and the perched bird of “Anamorph.” It’s an intricate pattern of meaning that no brief review has space enough to explore.

Viewers of Allen’s third solo McGuffey show will be taken by the explosive monochromatic beauty of “Zoetrope,” which extends across multiple panels, snaking around two walls. Allen says the idea for the work originated 40 years earlier, when as a college student, he would shoot photos on the train to New York for museum visits. It concerns his idea of time and space interacting as parts of the same illusion that obscures the viewers’ sense of location and ability to interpret what’s being observed. “Zoetrope”’s silhouettes, cloud bursts, rays of sunlight, windows, reflections, and waves of smoke make it impossible to tell.

Though Allen leaves us ample instructions for understanding his influences, ideas, and objectives, following him for the entire journey takes chutzpah. But, for those of us willing to take on the challenge, the rewards are many.

Categories
Arts

ARTS PICK: John Doyle

Step to it: John Doyle’s guitar talents have earned the Dublin, Ireland native credits on the recordings of several Celtic performers and an invitation to perform for President Obama, but he is best known as a founding member of the popular Irish band Solas. Grammy-winning Jeremy Kittel plays his violin with a devilish drive, and has recorded with artists ranging from Yo Yo Ma to Fleet Foxes. Together, Doyle and Kittel deliver an explosive, foot-stomping set fit to bring on a Riverdance revival.

Saturday 7/27. $22-25. 7pm, Cville Coffee, 1301 Harris St. www.brimstunes.org.