The change of season may inspire you toward big, bold reds, but there are many white wines worthy of attention during the colder months. These options include sparkling wines, wines made from grape varieties that produce heavier styles, white wines with more textural complexity, and sweet and luscious dessert wines. The Virginia Wine Board marketing office is working with area wine shops to turn the spotlight on local winter whites, and here are some recommendations to pique your interest.
Though it often takes center stage as an accompaniment to holiday parties and New Year’s celebrations, sparkling wine should be served year-round, as it brings a sense of celebration to any occasion, is easy to drink on its own, and pairs with almost any food. More Virginia wineries are producing sparkling wines, but Thibaut-Janisson continues to be the standard-bearer for high-quality sparkling wine made in the traditional method (the same winemaking technique used for champagne). Trump Winery deserves mention for producing excellent sparkling wines for many years. Its 2014 Sparkling Reserve, one of the 12 wines selected for the 2021 Governor’s Case, is an example of the quality that winemaker Jonathan Wheeler produces.
White wines can show more weight because of the grape variety, certain winemaking techniques, or a combination of both. Viognier fits this niche nicely, with full-bodied wines with textural complexity and full fruit flavors reminiscent of apricot, peaches, and other stone fruits. Veritas Vineyard and Winery produces an excellent example that is round and full on the palate with a long, opulent finish. Similarly, petit manseng expresses flavors of tropical fruits combined with a full body that comes at least partially from slightly higher alcohol levels. Michael Shaps Wineworks is recognized for making petit manseng in a dry, structured style (something becoming more and more popular in Virginia).
By producing white wines in contact with their skins, a technique usually reserved for reds, winemakers can transform the character into something more complex and more highly textured. These wines, referred to as orange or amber, are not for everyone but are often intriguing, delicious, and great options to pair with food. Rkatsiteli is an ancient white grape that historically has been made with skin contact, and Stinson Vineyards produces a version here in Virginia known as Wildkat. Perfect for those looking for a lesser-known variety or something a little different to try.
Lastly, dessert wines are often overlooked but can be just right for winter. These full-bodied, full-flavored, luscious wines are perfect for sitting by a fire, paired with dessert, or served on their own as dessert in a glass. Two great options are the Barboursville Vineyards Paxxito, winner of the 2021 Governor’s Cup, and the Keswick Vineyards Nektar. The Keswick wine is produced from 100 percent petit manseng grapes, mimicking one of the traditional expressions of the varietal in southern France, from where it originates.
Add some winter sparkle to your glass
Thibaut-Janisson Extra Brut NV ($36)
Thibaut-Janisson offers four wines, but the extra brut is the most serious and complex. It’s made with 100 percent chardonnay grapes from the first pressing (considered to be the best quality juice) with a higher proportion of older reserve wine added to increase complexity. Share this with your loved ones and closest friends.
Trump Winery 2015 Blanc de Noir ($55)
The 2014 sparkling reserve was included in the 2021 Virginia Governor’s Cup case and is now sold out. This alternative recently won America’s Best Sparkling Wine at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. Flavors of citrus, green apple, and Asian pear combine with hints of chestnuts and brioche.
Veritas Vineyards and Winery 2020 Viognier ($27)
Flavors of apricots, peaches, and other stone fruits combine with a rich, broad texture to bring weight to this wine that has a refreshing acidity that lifts the finish.
Michael Shaps Wineworks 2017 Petit Manseng ($35)
Tropical fruit flavors such as pineapple and mango predominate this dry wine, the heaviest white wine the winery produces, which presents with a full mouthfeel while maintaining high acidity. Barrel fermentation and aging in oak bring more texture and weight to an already structured wine.
Stinson Vineyards 2019 Wildkat ($29)
Skin contact results in a darker amber color, increased texture on the palate (from tannins), and flavors of oranges, almonds, and bruised apples. Serve warmer than most white wines and pair with heavier foods.
Barboursville Vineyards 2017 Paxxito ($35/375ml bottle)
Made in the traditional Italian method of drying grapes (appassimento) and concentrating sugar, acidity, and flavor. Sweet with honeyed fruits, pears, and almonds followed by a long, full finish.
Keswick Vineyards 2019 Nektar ($45/375ml bottle)
A floral nose accompanies flavors of honey, apricot, and mango, which give this wine a long, sweet, acidic finish.