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What makes Sally run?

“I’ve lived in both very red and very blue places,” says Sally Hudson. “But I never felt my vote really mattered—until 2016.” Donald Trump’s election spurred Hudson into politics—and to being elected the first woman to represent Charlottesville in the Virginia House of Delegates.

Public service came naturally to Hudson. Her father had a law degree but became a Unitarian minister, moving from assignment to assignment around the Midwest and Plains states; her journalist mother worked with community education programs. “I grew up very oriented to community service—helping at soup kitchens and shelters,” Hudson says. “But I wasn’t politically engaged until post-Trump. I was 27, I had always voted, but for the first time I thought my vote could be pivotal.”

By this time, Hudson, who earned an economics degree from Stanford University and a Ph.D. from MIT, had accepted a teaching post at UVA’s Batten School of Leadership and Public Policy. The Trump backlash, the events of August 2017, and the growing push for racial reckoning led many people who hadn’t been politically active into the fray. 

“I wasn’t part of that first anti-Trump wave,” Hudson says. “I was just becoming politically awakened. But a whole new wave of people got active, and changed the face of politics in Virginia.” In her view, the old guard “didn’t know how to use all that young energy—classic party politics didn’t find a home for them.” 

The result was a surge in grassroots activist groups advocating for single-issue changes or a more progressive agenda. Redistricting reform became Hudson’s launching pad. “I’m a sincere believer in small-‘d’ democracy,” she says, “and that only works if we have real elections and real races.” Gerrymandering’s negative impact isn’t only racial or party segmentation, in her view. “It creates confusion [about who represents who], and lack of accountability. And when people don’t feel their vote matters, they stop voting.”

Through her organizing work with FairVote and OneVirginia, Hudson got to know a lot of politically committed and activist locals—especially women. “I started nudging these women to run for office, but many couldn’t.” A Delegate’s $17,640 salary isn’t much if it’s your only income, she notes, and the job requires attending the two-month legislative session full-time. “So they began urging me to run.” 

Hudson’s announcement in December 2018 that she was challenging long-time incumbent David Toscano for the 57th District’s Democratic candidacy surprised (and put off) some people. When Toscano decided to retire, Hudson ended up running against two-term city councilor Kathy Galvin and winning with 65 percent of the vote.

As a political novice, why didn’t she start with a run for a city or county office? “Much of what inspired me was deep democracy work, and that’s [addressed] at the state level,” Hudson says. “Politics is not a ladder—you don’t have to work your way up. Each of the roles has a very different job to do, so you go where your skills are the best fit.” 

Hudson’s first term just happened to be a Democratic “trifecta”—the party held the governor’s office and majorities in both legislatures for the first time in 28 years. Those were heady times. “We made progress in rolling back a lot of bad laws,” from abortion restrictions to voter suppression measures. “What we passed [gun safety measures; a higher minimum wage; Medicaid expansion; pay increases for teachers; clean energy measures] was popular with many Virginians, but had been [held back] due to gerrymandering.” 

Her first legislative session ended in February 2020—and then the pandemic hit. Hudson’s reaction was “to grab an oar” and make sure her constituents got what they needed in this upended world, whether that meant PPE for health care works or unemployment checks for the newly out of work. Getting their unemployment insurance was “the No. 1 reason people called my office,” she says.

As a workforce economist, Hudson’s skills were an asset in taking on the state’s archaic unemployment compensation system—something she cites as one of her major accomplishments. But, with the House’s new Republican majority, she lost her seat on the Commission on Unemployment Compensation, set up to oversee system reforms. In an August article on richmond.com, the oversight panel’s chair, Senator Adam Ebbin (D-Alexandria), commented: “That’s too bad, [Hudson’s] the one with the most knowledge on this stuff.”

Another issue Hudson pushed hard was a bill she sponsored to allow local governments to vote on tax increases to fund school improvements. The bill passed the Senate, but died in the House Finance Committee. “It’s one of those issues where I knew there was no more that I could have done,” she admits, vowing to keep working on loosening the Dillon Rule restricting the autonomy of localities like Charlottesville.

This term, Hudson sees “protecting the progress we made” as a top priority—which is not to say she doesn’t see more work that needs to be done. Before the recent teacher pay increases, she notes, “Virginia was dead last [nationwide] on teacher salaries, and we’re really behind on school construction and upgrades. The Medicaid reimbursement is still too low, and we’re in a maternity health crisis, especially for women of color.”

How does this agenda fit with what she hears from her constituents? “Schools, housing, and health care—those are their concerns,” Hudson says—even in a district she describes as having deep inequalities. On a positive note, she thinks recent issues ranging from reproductive rights to voting access and education have raised awareness of the importance of representation at the state level. 

“More people are coming to see how much state government matters,” she says. “The Federal government can [fund initiatives], but it’s the state that makes sure that [help] gets to your door at a price you can afford.”

Well into her second term, how does Hudson feel about this new career she’s taken on? “It’s really fulfilling work,” she says emphatically. She sees a huge part of her job as “triage—connecting constituents with the people who can solve their problem.” An example she cites was the threatened evictions at Mallside Forest Apartments this past summer—not a state issue, but when a constituent facing eviction called Hudson’s office, she connected them with both the appropriate county supervisor and with Legal Aid Justice Center. 

“A big part of the job is to be visible and accessible,” Hudson says. “There’s no substitute for showing up in person—it gives people a chance to talk to you. I can be on any constituent’s doorstep in 15 minutes.” 

To Hudson, her two jobs are complementary: “As a teacher and as a public servant, I believe government works better when people know how government works.” And then she heads off to yet another constituent meeting.

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434 Magazines

Piecing it together

Down the street from the medieval cathedral at the stony heart of Valladolid, Spain, sits the Millennium Dome, a geodesic igloo made out of neon-edged hexagons that slot together like jigsaw puzzle pieces.

Inside the dome, thousands more jigsaw puzzle pieces wait in sealed boxes. Contestants from 40 different countries sit at white tables, poised to rip open their box when the timer starts the qualifying round of the 2022 World Jigsaw Puzzle Championships.

A Spanish competitor readies his puzzling fingers. A Turkish puzzler eyes the timer. A Ukrainian contestant nods to her blue-and-yellow supporters.

Behind her American flag, Charlottesville preschool teacher Stephanie Owen waits. She has traveled almost 4,000 miles from Virginia to race against the fastest jigsaw puzzlers in the world.

As a child, when she was home sick from middle school, Owen used to spend her days putting together jigsaw puzzles. As an adult, a positive COVID-19 test renewed her childhood puzzling habits.

“Our family has always been a jigsaw puzzle family,” Owen says. “My grandparents always have a puzzle out on the table when we go. We always do a puzzle with our friends on New Year’s Eve.”

One pandemic night, out of curiosity, Owen set up a clock and time-lapse camera, then watched herself move through a 500-piece puzzle in under one and a half hours.

That’s when she began to wonder if there was such a thing as a jigsaw puzzle race.

When the timer starts, the 60 contestants in Owen’s qualifying round unwrap an image of black dog sitting before a wall of paintings of black dogs. 

The sound of cardboard on plastic reverberates through the quiet dome as contestants begin sorting pieces. Each one wants to be the fastest to put all 500 into place.

Some competitors flip over each piece before categorization. Others create color-based piles. The bravest start assembly with most pieces still untouched. Owen begins shaping the border. Officials patrol the aisles in bright yellow World Jigsaw Puzzle Federation vests with cameras and watchful eyes.

Owen methodically spirals inward until all that is left is every puzzler’s nightmare: A wide expanse of fur, one of the most difficult textures in jigsaw.

Her mouth is dry. She cannot waste the moment it would take to sip water, nor can she spare a glance upward when a burst of audience applause signals the first puzzle has been completed. She can only stare intently at her remaining pieces.

“I tried to just stay in the moment, doing the thing that I was there to do, which is putting the pieces together,” Owen says.

With one hand she shoves the 500th piece of black fur into place. With the other, she slams her palm upon the table, signaling her victory to the judge.

Owen is the second American and 15th competitor to finish her qualifier. She has registered the best time of her puzzling career, and earned a spot in the final round of the 2022 World Jigsaw Puzzle Championship. 

Day one is over, and for the first time in 58 minutes and 41 seconds, Owen has enough time to unscrew the cap of her water bottle.

In late 2021, Owen’s Google search for jigsaw puzzle races turned up an upcoming Zoom-based competition. She wondered if it could possibly be real. 

Days after she signed up, a puzzle wrapped in unmarked paper arrived in Owen’s mailbox. A sticker warned her not to open the package until the timer started for her first-ever speed puzzling competition.

Under the watchful gaze of her laptop camera, Owen crushes her previous times when she completes the 500-piece puzzle in one hour and 30 seconds, giving her a win and the confidence to register for the world championships.

“I think something about the atmosphere and the pressure of it pushes me to think less, and take less time on things, and make faster decisions,” Owen says. “Knowing that I’m competing against other people, not just myself, gives me a thrill.”

Owen’s friends are fascinated by her home puzzle library. They’re stunned when they learn she has an official JPAR score, the puzzling statistic based on the difficulty of competitors’ puzzles.

In contrast, by day two, Valladolid is no stranger to puzzle fever. In cafés and bars around the dome, patrons ignore drinks in favor of practice jigsaws.

A visitor can find puzzles everywhere, from the stones of the cathedral to the hexagons of the Millennium Dome to the rows of white tables where Owen and her nearly 200 fellow competitors wait for the final round to begin.

Ravensburger, the German company that manufactures the puzzles used by World Jigsaw Puzzle Championships, presents finalists with the world premiere of a brand-new puzzle. When the timer starts and Owen opens her bag, she is greeted with a never-before-seen 500-piece rendition of a row of pastel-colored doors.

As always, Owen begins with the border.

When Owen slots her final piece into place, just over one hour has passed. She has officially ranked among the top 50 fastest jigsaw puzzlers in the world.

When she first began competing, Owen worried too much puzzling would burn out her love for her favorite hobby.

But it only took one day after her return to Charlottesville before she was back at Shenanigans, selecting her next jigsaw puzzle.

“I would love to do more competitions,” Owen says. “I don’t have any more on my schedule at the moment, but I’m hoping to find more in-person competitions, along with virtual ones. … It’s a mental exercise for me. It’s meditative. It makes me feel good about myself.”

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434 Magazines

Reinventing the strings section

Two years ago, Brian Lindgren got hit by a car. He broke several bones, but the most important was his left pinky. Lindgren is a violist. He needs his left pinky. 

This was the summer of 2020, the height of the pandemic shutdown. Musicians were already struggling. Lindgren was heading into the final year of an M.F.A. at Brooklyn College in New York, and he wasn’t sure what would be waiting for him on the other side. In some desperation, he took a step he never thought he’d take: He applied to Ph.D. programs.

As a master’s student, Lindgren’s main project was to design and build an electronic viola. He’d first had the idea as an undergraduate at the Eastman School of Music in Rochester, New York, but it had lain forgotten for over a decade, as Lindgren made a life for himself writing, performing, and producing music in New York City. He grew up playing the viola; he studied viola at Eastman; he loved the viola. But Eastman also introduced him to the world of electronic music. With electronic music, he says, you get to work with an “infinite sonic palette.” The world of electronic music also seemed more accessible, more open to experimentation, than the sometimes rarefied world of classical strings. But back then, he didn’t yet know how to combine these things he loved. 

Photo: Tristan Williams

At Brooklyn College, he found a way. “I was a hybrid person,” Lindgren says, “which can be very challenging in our assembly-line kind of world. But this program”—an M.F.A. in Sonic Arts—“was really geared towards musical explorers.” He took a class with Doug Geers, famous for his own technologically charged compositions, all about building electronic musical instruments. That first semester, he hacked together the first prototype of his new instrument. It was an a heavily modded acoustic viola, all black, with heavy white cables snaking out from the fingerboard and the new pickups he had constructed. Orange, green, blue, and white wires tangled around the tuning pegs. Lindgren describes it as “Borg-like.” This was EV 1, and it worked.

But he wasn’t satisfied, and he spent several semesters more in independent study with Geers, refining the concept. Another of his teachers challenged him: The music he was creating with his new instrument sounded just like something he could have created without the instrument, he said. What was he really trying to do here? (That teacher was Morton Subotnick, a pioneer in the world of electronic music and a co-inventor of one of the earliest analog synthesizers, so the challenge was one to take seriously.) He re-envisioned the instrument from the ground up. He learned CAD and circuit design. He experimented with ways of combining analog and digital sounds. He joined a long line of composers who invented instruments to achieve a sound no existing instrument could produce. In a mad dash at the end of his degree program, he finished EV 2, a sleek black wedge, like a viola’s fingerboard without a body, built from scratch on a 3D printer. 

Then he put it in a drawer. As he began his Ph.D. in composition and computer technologies at the University of Virginia last fall, he wanted to start with a blank slate. It was time to figure out what was next, and he wanted to open himself up to the opportunities the new environment would offer. But his passion for the instrument has continued to smolder. 

Lindgren’s pinky healed, thankfully, though it now has a permanent bend to it. The Telemetry Music Series, which showcases experimental sounds, provided Lindgren a few opportunities to perform this year—at The Bridge, at Old Cabell Hall, and even outside on the Downtown Mall. He’s slated to play this fall at a conference in North Carolina and a festival in Connecticut. He’s bursting with new ideas for composition.

As we talked, Lindgren sat in one of UVA’s makerspaces and the 3D printer hummed away behind him. EV 2.5 would be ready in three more days.

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434 Magazines

Myth busters

For such a small city, Charlottesville sure has an insane amount of celebrity connections. Ask any townie and you’ll hear so many conflicting tales it can be hard to sort fact from fiction. Take the late playwright Sam Shepard, who lived in Scottsville with Jessica Lange in the mid-’80s. Rumor has it he did his writing at The Virginian, got banned from Miller’s, and had a standing squad car ride home from Dürty Nelly’s. Here’s a breakdown of some more of our favorite celeb rumors buzzing around town.

Does Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson live in Charlottesville? 

Well, not quite. The wrestler-turned-actor actually owns a large farm in Orange County, about 30 minutes outside the city—and he’s there more often than you’d think. In 2019, Johnson tweeted that “the great state of Virginia has quietly become my home for years now,” and he and his family frequently visit the farm to “recharge, recalibrate, and reset.” Social media posts show Johnson fishing for bass, hanging with thoroughbreds, and working out in perhaps the greatest home gym to ever exist—talk about a staycation. Back in 2017, before Johnson’s home gym, aka the Iron Paradise, was built, he could be found pumping iron at the old Gold’s Gym, where he recorded a viral video of himself chatting with a few lucky fans who spotted him post-workout. 

Did Jennifer Aniston get married at Pippin Hill? 

In 2013, rumors began swirling on celeb gossip sites that Jennifer Aniston got married on the DL to then-fiancé Justin Theroux in a quickie wedding at Pippin Hill Farm & Winery. An elusive comment from a Pippin Hill employee at the time that neither confirmed nor denied the claim fueled gossip, and the unnamed tipster even claimed to know who the caterer was. Though the picturesque vineyard is certainly the perfect place for a private and exclusive celebrity wedding, turns out there’s no truth to this rumor. Jen and Justin actually tied the knot two years later in an intimate Malibu ceremony ordained by Jimmy Kimmel.

Russian royalty?

Does the name Anastasia Romanov sound familiar? You probably know the Russian Grand Duchess from the Disneyfied version of her story, as told in the 1997 film, Anastasia. Her real life is far more tragic. The youngest daughter of the last Tsar and Tsarina of Imperial Russia, Anastasia was murdered, along with her entire family, by a group of Bolshevik revolutionaries in 1918. Rumors immediately began circulating that Anastasia had actually escaped the murder attempt and was in hiding. Two years later, a woman now known by the name Anna Anderson came forward and declared herself the lost grand duchess. Long story short, Anderson was actually a Polish woman who was institutionalized in a mental hospital in Berlin at the time she made her claims, and she would go on to become the world’s most notorious Anastasia imposter. With the help of her supporters, Anderson made her way to America, and in 1968 settled down in Charlottesville, where she married history professor J.E. “Jack” Manahan, and lived until her death in 1984. You can still visit her grave at the University of Virginia Cemetery and Columbarium—just look for the tombstone labeled H.I.H. Anastasia of Russia.

Did Tina Fey write Mean Girls about Western Albemarle High School? 

It’s common knowledge that the comedian and actress was at least partly inspired by her alma mater, UVA, when she wrote the Mean Girls script—the name Cady comes from her college roommate, Cady Garey. There’s also a lesser-known rumor that one of Fey’s old roommates (who still lives in Charlottesville) went to Western Albemarle, and the roommate’s tales of cliques at the local school are what partly inspired Fey. We’re not sure how well this word-of-mouth whisper holds up, especially when Fey has admitted to drawing from her own experiences as a mean girl, and from the nonfiction book Queen Bees and Wannabes. It would be so fetch if it were true, though.

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434 Magazines

Talking on air

John Freeman has found his home in the booth. 

The career play-by-play announcer and UVA grad returned to Charlottesville to become the “voice of the Cavaliers” for the men’s football and basketball teams last November. He’d been the primary commentator for several university sports—lacrosse and even some men’s basketball—years ago, but he’d never spoken for the football team.

Before coming back to Charlottesville, Freeman spent five years calling games for Nashville’s pro soccer club. This year will mark his first full season as UVA sports’ top broadcaster. Freeman recently talked to 434 about the move and what’s next.

434: How did you find out you’d gotten the biggest broadcasting gig at your alma mater?

John Freeman: It started rather chaotically. I got a call from my predecessor, Dave Koehn, on a Tuesday, and that Saturday I was calling a football game. I grew up in Crozet and listened to the Virginia Sports Radio Network my whole life, and in a four-day span, I would be calling a game on the network at Louisville. It all started with a one-game contract.

You’ve called a lot of sports over the years but not much football. Is it a challenge going to a new sport?

I guess. My career philosophy has been to never say no to anything. I called the Charlottesville Ten Miler one time from the back of a moving vehicle. We were just trying not to fall out. You really do learn broadcasting best when you’re doing it under pressure.

Do you have a favorite sport to call? 

I always say my favorite sport to call is the one in front of me. When I’m in football mode, my favorite sport is football. I just love broadcasting. If UVA wanted me to call tiddlywinks, I would enjoy it. As far as football and basketball, they are distinct. Football is a marathon—almost six hours of broadcasting when it’s said and done. And the booth for football is outdoors; if it’s going to be 95 degrees for the first game, that’s a physical toll when you‘re sitting there and talking loudly for five hours. Basketball, you can really lock in and get lost.

But football is a little slower, right?

You’d be surprised. There’s more to describe. If I have downtime, I talk about what song the band is playing, what color the sky is, what the cheerleaders are doing, the smell of grilled hot dogs in the air.

What does being the “voice of the Cavaliers” mean to you?

Growing up here, we would go to games and listen to the broadcast on the way home, so I’ve been listening to the Virginia Sports Radio Network ever since I was kid. I used to call games off friends’ video game systems. I would make little prep boards. Then in high school, I interned with [former “voice of the Cavaliers”] Mac McDonald the second I got my driver’s license. I went to Western Albemarle, and I would get up at 5 in the morning, when Mac hosted the sports report. I would be cutting audio by 6am.

What’s made you successful in this line of work?

I wasn’t born with golden pipes—nor do I have them now—and I’ve always been jealous of people that just have them. I would like to think my voice is palatable enough, but I think it’s meant I’ve had to rely more on vocabulary and pace, description and inflection. I‘ve had to work harder at those things.

Is there another step up for your career after this?

I don’t see anything that would be better than this. I get to call a national championship-caliber basketball team and an FBS football team. I don’t need another rung—I’m not sure if there is another rung. I’m not going to go to the Commanders in the NFL. This job is rewarding, and I’m part of the community. I get to represent a school that my parents went to, and the reward to me personally is so much greater.

What’s the outlook for the football and basketball teams this year?

Man, I’m completely biased. Two national championships and a Heisman Trophy? Honestly, I think for football, there are a lot of unknowns and a lot of knowns. The offense is going to be record-breaking when it comes to our quarterback [Brennan Armstrong]. If they can find themselves 2-0 or 3-0 and get some momentum under Tony Elliott, it could be a surprise season. The basketball team should be much-improved. I see no reason why they shouldn’t make the NCAA tournament. After growing up watching 15 and 15 UVA basketball teams, I’m still in a state of shock that we are now consistently ranked in the top 10.

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434 Magazines

Pumpkin spiced

Late last summer, four Crozet-based friends found themselves discussing the upcoming fall season—prepping for a new school year, planning autumnal activities, and cozying up their home décor. For Alexis Macias, Kristen Craig, Kathleen Ross, and Marilyn Speight, the latter always starts with the porch. 

“We had seen on Instagram a mom out of Texas who started offering a fall porch-decorating service for her neighborhood,” Speight says. And then they wondered: Why couldn’t they do the same thing in Charlottesville? A morning meeting at Mudhouse, and Porch Patch was launched shortly thereafter. 

Here’s how it works: The group has three packages (petite for $200, classic for $300, and grand for $450) that offer varying numbers and types of pumpkins, scaled to the size of your porch. Plus, you can add on other items like mums, kale, and hay bales, and the ladies will work with your own décor to mix in pieces you already have.

Since launching, Porch Patch has made connections with local farms and nurseries like Highbrighton and Middle River, and Speight says they sold out of their limited number of spots last season—more than 40 homes in the Crozet, Charlottesville, and Richmond areas. 

“People are incredibly busy and may not have the time to procure pumpkins for their porches personally, or perhaps they love the look but prefer to outsource to someone who has an eye for styling,” Speight says. “Our goal with this project was to offer any area resident the chance to bring the patch right to their front door.”

Preorders are underway (find them on Instagram @porchpatch), and installations will run through the month of October.

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Knife & Fork Magazines

In the round

Is it just us, or are cookies the ultimate treat? They can be sweet, they can be savory, or they can be simple enough to dunk (or daintily dip, pinky up!) in a cup of English breakfast. You can serve them at parties, you can pack them in a kid’s lunch, you can pile them high and soak them in a cold glass of local milk. Yes, we’re all in on cookies and know you will be, too. Just don’t forget to wipe up the crumbs, you monsters!

By Carol Diggs, Shea Gibbs, and Caite Hamilton

LITTLE GEM

Jon LaPanta always got something sweet after dinner when he was a boy, and when his parents opened Baggby’s—the Downtown Mall sandwich shop he still runs—they wanted their patrons to get the same. Their solution was a tiny chocolate chip cookie in every bag.

Impossibly moist and buttery, the tiny cookie has become a Baggby’s signature during the lunch joint’s remarkable 28-year run. The secret to the cookie’s success? LaPanta says it’s the original recipe his mom Ann used, which calls for breaking the sugar down before whipping it with real butter and adding all-purpose flour and chocolate.

“Mrs. Fields has a similar recipe, but my mom was making them back in the ’60s,” LaPanta says.

Every morning, LaPanta and his team make a big batch of dough before eyeballing two sets of raw cookie balls—one for the large choco-chippers available at the counter and the other for their tiny counterparts. They never use a scoop, which gives the sweet biscuits their endearing non-uniform shape.

The Baggby’s bakers toss off a few trays at 350 degrees, then monitor sales to see when they need to fire up more fresh. They never want to sell day-olds, LaPanta says, so they make sure they don’t make too many. During a typical four-hour lunch rush over the past few years, Baggby’s has gone through nearly 50 pounds of cookie dough.

“People come up to the counter and ask, ‘Can I buy the little cookies?’” LaPanta says. The answer? Yes, but not until after they make sure they have enough for every order.

So yeah, Baggby’s little cookies are delicious. But with all that butter, sugar, and chocolate, how bad are they for you? “I’ve been eating them hot off the pan every morning since 1994, so there must be something to them,” LaPanta says.—SG

Photo: Sarah Cramer Shields

THE KEEVILS RESURRECT A FAN FAVORITE

Fans of Harrison Keevil’s Brookville Restaurant might remember the bulky bacon chocolate chip cookies that became a staple on the comfort food spot’s dessert menu during its six-year Downtown Mall tenure. What they might not remember is that Jennifer Keevil, Harrison’s wife, was the one who developed the cookie’s original recipe.

“We were labeled as the pig restaurant, and we thought it would be funny,” she says. “They came out ooey, gooey, and delicious.”

Since closing Brookville in 2016, Keevil and Keevil operated an eponymous grocery and kitchen before launching a “digital food hall,” Multiverse Kitchens, last year. The online ordering portal and brick-and-mortar restaurant features nine brands with unique offerings. The Keevils launched one brand, Long Strange Chip, to immortalize their beloved Brookville cookie recipe.

Jennifer says the recipe’s unique in at least two ways. One, it contains no salt, a trendy darling of modern cookie-meisters. Two, it has an elevated baking powder to soda ratio, which gives the cookies their signature puffy appearance.

“Baking is a science, and you have to add things a certain way,” Keevil says. To that end, she beats the sugar and butter for an extended period, adds chocolate chips and her dry ingredients, spins the dough only another 15 to 30 seconds, then leaves it the heck alone. The final step keeps the gluten from overactivating.

In its current iteration, the old Brookville recipe is the starting point for five Long Strange Chip products: chocolate chip, chocolate chocolate chip, bacon chocolate chip, peanut butter pieces chocolate chip, and toffee chocolate chip. And each cookie is baked to order.

“We undercook them a smidge, and they’re still warm,” Keevil says.—SG

Once Anwar Allen passed the test from his wife Laura’s grandmother (whose recipe they use for Allen’s Scottish Shortbread), he took on the role of chief baker for the company. Photo: Eze Amos

SIMPLE…AND SCRUMPTIOUS

Sometimes, in this world of too much, we crave simple. And for simple, you can’t beat shortbread: one part sugar, two parts butter, three parts flour.

While many cuisines—British, Danish, Dutch, French, Spanish, Greek, Middle Eastern, Indian, even Japanese—have their version of this basic biscuit, if it’s called shortbread, it’s Scottish. Ask Laura Allen, of Charlottesville-based Allen’s Scottish Shortbread: Since 2014, her family has relied on her immigrant grandmother’s recipe, handed down through generations of Glaswegians.

The story goes that Scottish shortbread developed from a French version brought over by the ill-fated (and half-French) Mary, Queen of Scots. The name comes from its texture—“short,” or crumbly, because of the high fat content (twice as much butter as sugar). And butter is the clue to shortbread’s distinctive rich, melting mouth feel. 

Allen’s shortbread is particularly luscious. Laura’s husband Anwar, the chief baker (once he’d been initiated by grandmother Allen), will reveal they use a portion of rice flour, for texture. But the real mysteries—what kind(s) of flour? Sifted how many times? What kind of butter? Granulated or powdered sugar, or both? A touch of salt? How long and at what stage should the dough be chilled?—are jealously guarded. 

While the recipe is hallowed, the Allens have developed a range of flavors keyed to a traditional shortbread partner: a good, bracing cup of tea. From a family connection with John Harney, founder of Harney & Sons Fine Teas, the Allens began partnering with John’s grandson Emeric in 2019 to use the brand’s special blends in their shortbread. Anwar says the Earl Grey, lavender, cinnamon spice and Meyer lemon varieties are particularly popular; Laura says new flavors are in the works, but they are (no surprise) “a secret.” 

The couple is committed to keeping Allen’s Scottish Shortbread a “gourmet, artisan product” made by hand in small batches. While Whole Foods and Wegmans carry the brand, you’re also likely to find it in specialty retailers and gourmet shops like Foods of All Nations, Shenandoah Joe’s, Kindness Cafe, The Happy Cook, Mona Lisa Pasta, Market Street Market—and online.

Laura, who grew up with Beatrix Potter and Angelina Ballerina (which inspired their packaging’s watercolor illustrations of the Allen rabbit family), sees a shortbread treat as a moment of ease and enjoyment, a little bit of childhood returned. Their customers seem to agree, whether they’re sipping tea, coffee (“especially good with the traditional holiday spice and pumpkin spice flavors,” says Laura), wine, Champagne, or even—appropriately—a good Scotch.

What’s the Allens’ secret ingredient? “I think it’s love,” Laura says, “just like my grandmother’s.”—CD

File photo.

DOUGH, BABY

Wouldn’t it be great if there was one dough that could do double, triple, even quadruple duty when it came to making cookies? Albemarle Baking Company’s Gerry Newman did us a solid, sharing a dough recipe that just requires a few simple tweaks depending on what kind of cookie you’re craving. Try it out (and don’t forget to share).—CH

Cookie dough

8.5 oz. butter (room temp) 8.5 ounce

10.25 oz. sugar

2 eggs (room temp)

.25 oz. vanilla 

10.25 oz. all-purpose flour

1 tsp. baking powder

1/2 tsp. salt

Cream the butter and sugar, then add eggs one at a time, scraping well between additions. Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt, and add to mix until well incorporated. Rest mixture in fridge for at least one hour. Scoop and bake at 375 degrees for 10 minutes.

Mix it up

  • Roll scooped dough in a mix of 1 pound granulated sugar and 5 tablespoons cinnamon for snickerdoodles.
  • Add a 12-ounce bag of chocolate chips for chocolate chip cookies.
  • Add 5 ounces of rolled oats and 8 ounces raisins for oatmeal raisin cookies.
  • Omit the vanilla and add the zest of one lemon. When cookies come out of the oven, make a glaze of the juice of the lemon and powdered sugar, adjusting to the right thickness, and glaze the warm cookies.
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Redefining authentic

Anna Gardner and Kelsey Naylor had been working in Charlottesville kitchens for years—Naylor at L’étoile, TEN, The Alley Light, Gardner at The Ivy Inn, Junction, Oakhurst Inn, and together at Public Fish & Oyster—when they started feeling a burn-out coming on. They decided to take a year off to explore Japan and, when they came back, they opened Pye Dog Pizza as a way to see what the classic Italian dish looks like outside of Italy—Naylor’s native Korea included (see: bulgogi and cheese pizza).

In 2020, wanting to focus even more on the Japanese cuisine they’d learned about during their year abroad, they pivoted to a new food truck concept: Basan, which is closer to Umma’s, the brick and mortar spot they opened this spring. It’s there that they’re exploring the intersection of Japan, Korea, and America and, even more specifically, Japan, Korea, and Charlottesville, utilizing a lot of ingredients from Sussex Farm, run by Naylor’s “mamabird,” Jen. 

It’s that spirit that captured the attention of Splendora’s owner Patricia Ross, who’s been a fan of the women since Pye Dog and an even bigger one these days, as Umma’s continues to push the imagination and taste buds of local diners. Similarly, Ross works to create gelato and pastries that feel, as she says, “of a place.” Her gelato might not look quite like the cone you ordered that one time in Italy proper, but that’s because what Ross serves at her Stonefield shop is from her own perspective, and uses ingredients from Virginia—and the same goes for “authentic” Japanese cuisine at Umma’s.

“I hate that word,” Ross says. “I think authentic just means that it means something to someone. It sounds so Pollyanna, but I want people who live to make food to be able to confidently put their heart on a plate without worrying about a cognoscenti imposing judgment or a broader public dragging them to mediocrity.”

We asked the three women to chat—Actors on Actors-style—about authenticity, cooking across cultures, and the Charlottesville food scene. Oh, and which “whiny average dude ballad” they hate the most.

Patricia Ross: You guys have a point of view with your food that shares Korean history. Do you feel like your restaurant occupies a liminal space where you have roots in one place, but you’ve grafted onto your particular experience?

Kelsey Naylor: Definitely. I grew up eating the—my mom’s very anal, like, “This is how [the dish] is supposed to be.” And my grandmother’s like, “This is how it’s supposed to be.” And then when we went to Japan and saw the baselines of where that all came from. Our own experiences and Anna’s interpretations of things that I grew up with—putting a new spin on it. The way it’s evolved, I think, is kind of what the restaurant is turning into. Like generations of what it was into what it can be. Just using the idea and running with it.

Photo: John Robinson

PR: Do you think it surprises a lot of people—before the Apple TV series [“Pachinko”] came out—that Korea was colonized by Japan and that’s why there’s more of that kind of interplay between the foods? I feel like the Japanese overlay of what Korea’s existing food ways were is really interesting. Is that something you noticed when you lived in Japan? 

KN: There are so many things where Korea took it and ran with it and made it, to our mind, better. But there are also certain things like curry that they took and just ruined (in my opinion). Like, why do you need to put raisins in? Not everything has to be spicy with raisins in it. Like, it’s gonna be okay.

PR: That translation really figures into the way you guys are doing your dishes now. Is that a deliberate choice that you made or just something that happened?

Anna Gardner: I think to a certain extent it is a deliberate choice just because it is so endlessly fascinating to see the minor tweaks. So I, in many ways, like to think of it as not “Americanizing” things, but trying to look at things in the way it would be looked at over there and try to play with the flavors that way, as opposed in the reverse, which I think is a subtle, but very different perspective.

KN: I feel like a lot of what we get trapped in here, as far as Americanizing things, is like, oh, furikake. “I’m just gonna put it on. There, it’s Japanese now.” Stuff like that is always—that makes me angry.

PR: You guys very deliberately avoid designations of authentic, which at this point feels like a marketing angle rather than an actual point of view of food. How do you thread that needle when there are Japanese elements that are Korean-ified in what you’re doing? The distinction is subtle, as you say. How do you thread that needle without being a dickhead?

AG: I mean, it sounds so L.A., but we just make what we want to make. At the end of the day, I think all food is storytelling. Like, for instance, I never disliked Asian food, but I never once thought to myself, you know what I want to cook is Asian food—until I had been with Kelsey for a while and eaten so much of her mom’s food that it kind of took on its own sentimental life for me personally.

It’s not like we sit down and write a menu and say to ourselves, like, “Man, I really want to interrogate the meaning of uni” or whatever. We’re just telling stories. If that means something to us, whether it be a memory that we personally have, or just a feeling from childhood, pretty much any dish you ask us about, we could tell you. You might not taste it and be like, “Oh, this tastes like the time they played in sprinklers,” but it’s kind of the baseline of where things come from.

KN: I know the one that I was really excited about was on the menu a long time ago. The story was that my grandmother used to wake up and go to the fish market in Baltimore at like four o’clock in the morning and get flounder. And my dad and my mom’s dad definitely did not get along. My dad doesn’t know any Korean. But the way that they kind of bridged that gap together was through the sashimi. They would just sit there and drink Crown Royal all day. So we did sashimi with Crown Royal ponzu to kind of show the story of like, these are ways that we connect with other people.

AG: So as far as the question of authenticity goes, we do deliberately avoid it. I don’t believe it is humanly possible to make any authentic food, like authentic Japanese food in Virginia, because the terroir is so different.

KN: It’s disappointing because there’s so much that you can get from food. By marketing yourself as authentic, it leads people to these assumptions about what [the cuisine] should be because someone else called themselves authentic Korean or authentic Japanese. Even if [our food] is authentic to us, there are nuances in the language. But people will just pick that one word and hold onto it and not listen to anything that we have to say. 

PR: The thing that I love about your food is one, it’s always a surprise to me and I eat quite a bit. And two, I don’t know the specific instances where you guys are cooking from, but I do know where I am when I’m eating. And it’s always something that brings a core memory.

AG: It has been very humbling to see how many people respond to that. Though it is perhaps a slower burn, we have been so blessed with a lot of very loyal, die-hard customers. And while they may not be in love with everything we make, we’ve gotten to build relationships with them.

PR: Do you guys wanna talk about how important it is to you to be an unofficial gay bar?

KN: Indeed. So I guess our stance before we even opened the restaurant was there is a very, very lacking gay community in Charlottesville. Either you are the type of gay person that loves cycling and you can meet a couple gay people cycling or like, oh, I don’t know. I’ll go to Firefly because they happen to have the flag out front, but like, that’s it. There isn’t really a space for people to meet other people and hang out and feel just safe. I feel like Charlottesville is one of those places where you never outright feel in danger, just not welcome. Being able to have that unofficial gay bar status is like, yeah, I would be so stoked to be able to go somewhere and be like, nobody here gives a shit that I’m gay. 

AG: We have two straight people on staff out of 20. It makes me so happy. It wasn’t a conscious choice. People just kind of—build it and they will come. 

KN: It’s not to say I only want gay people to come here. I just want it to also be a space that’s like anybody—literally anyone, I don’t care what your background is or any of that—I want it to be a space where you never feel weird about hanging out or holding your partner’s hand.

PR: One more question, and then we can be done. An eccentric billionaire comes into the restaurant and promises to fund it but you have to play her favorite song on loop. Anytime she eats here—and she eats for two to three hours minimum. What is her favorite song? It has to be a specific song that breaks you.

AG: “American Girl,” Tom Petty.

PR: I’m talking good money. Like you can do whatever you want—rent forever. She might even buy the building for you, right? And pay the property tax.

KN: “Yellow” by Coldplay.

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Buried treasure

To botanists, Tuber melanosporum is a fungus that grows on tree roots underground. Gourmets give it a classier name: the black Périgord truffle. Once only produced in certain areas of France, Italy, and Spain, black truffles are now cultivated all over the world—including locally.

Seeing truffle farms in New Zealand gave Pat Martin and her husband, John, an idea for their retirement: a quiet rural life, running a small-scale business that would give them an excuse to travel. In 2007 they bought land west of Culpeper, began nurturing English oak seedlings inoculated with Tuber melanosporum, and launched Virginia Truffles LLC.

“For truffle farming, you have to be in it for the long haul,” Martin says. It can take four to eight years before the transplanted trees’ roots produce truffles—but, as farmers know, there are no guarantees. The Martins saw their first truffle harvest (“two really nice ones”) in 2018. They now have six acres of trees*; last year’s harvest was seven pounds—not bad for a product that sells for more its weight in gold.

Martin’s daughter Olivia Taylor, who has degrees in biology and environmental science, jumped in to help manage the tree nursery. Then came the challenge of actually finding the product—so Taylor was off to Provence to learn how to train truffle-hunting dogs. (Most professional truffle operations use dogs, she says; “truffle-hunting pigs are only for the tourists.”) 

Taylor now has three trained dogs, and during the harvest season (December to March) offers truffle-lovers a chance to hunt for their own. The hunts include a backgrounding on truffles, advice on storage, and recipe tastings around the firepit.

Why so much fuss over a simple fungus? Partly, it’s the mystique that surrounds any rare ingredient. But truffle-lovers swear by its rich, earthy aroma and a taste sometimes called a mix of earth and chocolate. Fresh truffle can be thinly sliced directly into a dish, and when stored properly (wrapped in a paper towel in an air-tight container in the refrigerator), lasts 10 to 14 days. Storing truffle along with a high-fat food (eggs, butter, cream) imparts its unique aroma and taste. Leftover bits can also be frozen and used to infuse oil, butter, cheeses, and sauces (truffle aioli, anyone?).

As always, buyers beware: Taylor cautions that truffle “flavoring” (as in commercially made truffle oils or dressing) is a synthetic approximation. If you want the real experience, buy the real fungus.

*While English oak is not a native tree, it is not considered invasive. Olivia Taylor says research indicates the specific conditions Tuber melanosporum requires make it unlikely it will “escape” or hybridize with native truffle species.

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Fresh Hart

The team behind Junction, the Southwest-style Belmont restaurant that closed in 2020, has launched another eatery in the same space, but new patrons can expect anything but the same old.

The new resto goes by the name Mockingbird and serves up Southern comfort. Head chef Melissa Close-Hart worked with long-time collaborators Michelle Moshier, Matthew Hart, and Helen Aker to come up with the concept after carefully debating Junction’s reopening. Close-Hart says the new direction felt like a fresh start.

“Junction did an okay job, and I did an okay job in that position, but it wasn’t really my passion,” the acclaimed chef says. “We did a lot of research, and we finally just said, ‘The best food gets produced by people that are doing something close to their heart.’”

In addition to switching culinary focus, the Mockingbird dining room has been significantly downsized. Where Junction operated on both floors of the restored Belmont building at 421 Monticello Rd., Mockingbird will stick to the downstairs level. That gives it 100 floor seats and another 13 at the bar, down from 250. The upstairs will be devoted to Aker’s catering operation, and serve as an event space for parties up to 60 people.

At Junction, Close-Hart and her back-of-house team served 2,200 square feet of dining room out of a 210-square-foot kitchen. That wasn’t tenable, and the change will allow the chef not only to cook food aligned with her own Southern heritage, but to do more one-offs and boutique specials. Close-Hart says Mockingbird will differ from other soul food joints around town in that it’ll focus on the Deep South, with a bit of Cajun and creole thrown in, as well as Gulf Coast—rather than Eastern Shore—seafood.

On the menu at Mockingbird are staples like fried green tomatoes and crispy chicken and waffles, but also more unique items like bison hanger steak and the Not-So-Classic Pot Roast with blue cheese crumbles. Close-Hart wants to maintain five daily specials, as well, including an app and entrée along with the soup, catch, and ice cream of the day.

“Being at The Local for the last two and a half years, we do a lot of numbers,” Close-Hart says. “So a farmer might say, ‘I have two pounds of cowpeas.’ We can’t do anything with that.”

The other big change at Close-Hart’s new restaurant is in the chef’s personal focus. She’s been sober for the past three years and says she’s more energized and passionate about running a restaurant than she has been in a long time.

“When we opened Junction, I was not in the right frame of mind, and it took about two years to realize I was in trouble,” Close-Hart says. “And to be frank about it, there are a lot of parts of opening Junction I don’t remember, between the stress and the addiction issues.”

Close-Hart spent 30 days in rehab when she decided to fight her addictions. Some folks around her said she’d never be able to return to the restaurant business and stay sober. But being a chef “is who I am, not just what I do,” she says, and there was no way she was giving it all up.

Mockingbird opened to the public in late July after missing its soft opening the week prior. A COVID flareup likewise slowed the business for several days in early August. Otherwise, Close-Hart says things have been running smoothly, and she continues to revive her love of cooking. She’s also found support for her sobriety from a therapist and the growing crowd of sober chefs in Charlottesville and beyond.

“I don’t even think about it anymore. It is not a concept in my life, and I don’t struggle with it,” Close-Hart says. “I found a happy place, and I have great people that surround me. I’m happy to talk about my sobriety if it helps even one person think about getting sober. And, it keeps me accountable.”