Categories
News

Read this first

As the C-VILLE Design Annual returns (p. 16) to look at a rising generation of architects, we ask, What’s Next? I like the question; being C-VILLE’s editor for the past nine years, I’ve spent a lot of time pondering it myself. Putting together a good read each week—and landing on the thing that needs to be covered next—requires the talents of many. Last week I thanked dozens of writers and contributors who have helped create C-VILLE for the past 20-dozen issues while I’ve been in charge.

 

But in the end, a newspaper is only as good as its readers—and you are one demanding and intelligent bunch. That comes as no surprise, for Charlottesville is a fertile place for the worldly, the passionate and the quick-witted. Whenever our internal discussions turn to what the reader thinks or wants (or even, who is the reader?), it’s reader with a capital R—a tough customer, as my much-missed Nana used to say. Thanks for insisting through your feedback that we aim for a high standard of reporting, curiosity, humor and design. It’s kept the job lively and made the paper better.

Fiercely intelligent as it can be, Charlottesville is also a place rich in contradictions. Nowhere has this been more evident than in the news stories where people can, for instance, credit themselves as good community stewards and raise a holy fuss about a fitness facility going up in a local park while remaining largely silent on an epidemic drop-out rate among the city’s poorest high school students. People proudly think and act regionally when it comes to food production, but the city and county, whose boundaries most of us probably can’t name, continue to feud like Hatfields and McCoys. And then there’s the question of Thomas Jefferson. Were it not for his influence, Charlottesville would be a shadow of itself. Yet, so many people here force a kind of irony about him. Or they’re quick to denounce him for his own contradictions—slavery and Sally Hemings, among them. I’ve grown to appreciate Jefferson even more in the time I’ve lived here; I like a complicated man. And from the seat I occupied at C-VILLE, I saw a lot of TJ in Charlottesville’s own hypocrisies and vice versa. In the very city that erects a monument to free expression, a newspaper editor can field personal hate mail, harsh phone calls, and yes, a death threat or two for publishing an unpopular opinion.

Not that I would have traded this job for any other in town. The writers alone have been a cast of characters that no playwright could imagine (buy me a beer—on the Upper West Side—and I’ll tell you the story of the eco terrorist). I’ve been incredibly fortunate to be able to shepherd new products into this market, too, from our home and garden monthly (ABODE) to a bridal magazine (UNIONS) and a women’s lifestyle and fitness quarterly (C). It’s been personally and professionally rewarding to conceive and launch these C-VILLE-branded publications and absolutely terrific to watch them find a marketplace. Ultimately, the support of C-VILLE and everything else we do relies on buy-in, literally, from local businesses, without which we’re not worth the paper we’re printed on. C-VILLE was on the shop local kick long before it became a bumper sticker, and we still are. I hope you are, too.

It is not immodest of me to note that C-VILLE is a fine looking publication. And so are all the supplements we make. I can say that because another person is the wise hand behind that outstanding design. He is Bill LeSueur, longtime co-conspirator and unparalleled art director. Bill, I love your work—and I’m crazy about you. You’ve made me a better editor than I ever imagined I could be with your exacting sensibility, your tireless work ethic and your beautiful eye. When he or she gets here, my successor will be a lucky soul indeed to be able to make a mark on C-VILLE (and Charlottesville) with your support.

So, returning to that question… What’s next? I got off the train 17 years ago with a double stroller and deep dismay at the dusty surroundings. I leave alone via I-95 with my two men set up in far-flung places. I arrived highly skeptical of the South. I depart with a love of the Blue Ridge and collard greens. After early years spent at magazines and another alternative weekly, I had room to advance in my career when I got to Charlottesville. I exit at the top of the local journalism game with a micro awareness of a town that is so richly nuanced it would take more than one career to master it. I’m headed to the Columbia Journalism Review, where leaders in this field are still fighting the good fight for journalism that is accountable and accurate. I’m charged with raising the funds to keep it going—a worthy cause in a time when means of distribution, such as social network sites, are mistaken for real journalism and when many reporters (never mind, readers) are themselves unsure of the difference. After nearly a generation in this town, I know a Jeffersonian principle when I hear one and CJR’s motto, Strong Press, Strong Democracy, is just that. And so it will be true that you can take the woman out of Charlottesville but you can’t take Charlottesville out of the woman. I will carry 17 years of life here and nine years of serving its discerning readership into every conversation and pitch I make. Good for me. I love New York, you know it’s true, and I love Charlottesville, too. Peace out.

NEW C-VILLE COVER STORY: Wheels keep on turning

So many news stories lead us back to the MCP drawing board, such as this week’s look at the region’s poor options for bike commuting. If and when the parkway is completed, it will fulfill many bikers’ dreams. Until then, watch out, cyclists! Read this week’s cover story, on local bike safety, by clicking here. And don’t forget to leave comments!

NEW C-VILLE COVER STORY: Laugh it up

 This week we look at Charlottesville’s fledgling stand-up comedy scene, which in many ways is typical of here—cozy and do-it-yourself. “Charlottesville,” says one performer, “is very supportive of people and their artistic endeavors.” Read the cover story here, and don’t forget to leave comments.

NEW! C-VILLE COVER STORY: The work of the future

Meet your jobs of the future, Charlottesville.  This week Will Goldsmith tackles the Recession-worthy crystal ball question: What will the next generation of jobs look like? Though the situation in Charlottesville fares well compared to elsewhere in the country, unemployment nonetheless exceeds 5 percent. There’s little sign of a middle class miracle coming, either.   Indeed, a complex weave of education issues, city-county rivalry, declining industry, and even sprawl affects the local jobs scene. You’re well advised to keep your pencil sharpened and your skill set current. Read this week’s cover story here, and don’t forget to leave comments.

NEW C-VILLE COVER STORY: Stretch your legs

This is nothing new. Every week we tell you where to go. Some years ago, we underlined our intention by calling the calendar section Get Out Now! Today’s cover story could be titled Get Out This Month!  You’ll have to pardon our exhortations, it’s just that spring in Central Virginia is unrivaled for beauty and inspiration and we want you to enjoy it. Get an early start welcoming the most cheerful season with our event-a-day guide to March. Read the cover story here, and don’t forget to leave your own suggestions in the comments!

NEW C-VILLE COVER STORY: The playbook of love

This week’s cover story is packed with ideas to festoon your romance—quirky date nights, tips for building a fire, serenade suggestions and more. Read it all right here, and don’t forget to leave your own lovey-dovey comments.

 

NEW COVER STORY: This too shall pass

There are worse places to bury yourself than inside a book. And often there is no better place to find yourself. Scott Weaver has looked into the future, and with grim times approaching—or at least not abating—he recommends you dive into some Ralph Ellison or Lorrie Moore or T.S. Eliot. Maybe a little Joan Didion. Twenty-one timeless, humanizing reads make Scott’s list and when you look up from the last page of any one of them, you may conclude that worldly matters are more trivial than they seemed. Perhaps you have a few titles of your own to add. Read the cover story here, and don’t forget to make your own suggestions.

 

Categories
Living

The year in local wine







Summing up a theme in the Virginia wine industry this year, small is beautiful. Even though a couple of big guys ran into outsized trouble, several boutique producers in the Monticello area nimbly redeemed the industry’s reputation with new products. The year started with a fizz and ended with a flop, and along the way there was sadness and glory as the country’s admittedly diminutive fifth-largest wine producer was celebrated on the big screen. Here’s a glance at the year in local wine.

Corked: Reality TV stars-turned chronic debtors, Tareq and Michaele Salahi provided one of only a few low moments in Virginia wine this year.

In February, Albemarle County planning staff advised leaders on how best to comply with a change in the state’s legal definition of “farm winery,” and Supervisors approved what one wine lobbyist lauded as “model ordinance across the state.” In line with that, planners also adjusted the sound ordinance affecting wineries, which now looks prime for some additional fine-tuning. It will be among the first issue on Albemarle planners’ agenda in 2011.

Also in February, King Family Vineyards’ Matthieu Finot took home the Governor’s Cup, Virginia’s top prize, for his 2007 Meritage. Competing outside the state, Pollak Vineyards’ Jake Busching followed with a gold medal from the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition for his 2007 Cabernet Franc. And Emily Pelton of Veritas Vineyards poured her 2009 Viognier at a State Department event hosted by Hillary Clinton and featuring Michele Obama. Later in the year, this fetching trio of winemakers announced a joint project—3, a new red wine signifying the camaraderie found in much Monticello area wine production. 

Other winemakers took on side projects, too, including Lovingston’s Riaan Roussow, whose labor of love, two elegant reds under the micro-boutique label r, at last made their debut. Michael Shaps and Philip Stafford freshened their wildly successful Virginia Wineworks—both the wine and the custom crush business bearing the same name. Their custom crush operation doubled in size this year. Seems small-scale winemaking has not crested yet. And Shaps and Stafford became the state’s first winemakers to embrace the 3L recyclable box—now sporting a new, more feminine Virginia Wineworks label.

In April, Claude Delfosse escaped foreclosure on his Nelson County operation by filing bankruptcy, while another Claude—Thibaut—released Virginia Fizz, an affordable Cremant-style sparkling wine. And a couple hours north in Loudoun, wine bloggers descended for the drinklocalwine. com annual conference. Many were Left Coasters and New York Staters who experienced Virginia wine for the first time—and declared much of it to be good. In the fall, another group of scribes, the Circle of Wine Writers, hailing mostly from Britain, visited Virginia and were similarly impressed with some of the state’s most elegant wines, including Stephen Barnard’s Verdejo for Keswick Vineyards.

Monticello restored the wine cellar of the state’s original enophile, but the number of visitors who saw it was likely dwarfed by the millions of viewers who watched Virginia wine phonies Tareq and Michaele Salahi on “Real Housewives of D.C.” serve beer from stemware. 

But that dark moment passed. The best of Virginia wine took the spotlight instead when, at the end of October, Silverthorn Films, a Charlottesville-grown production company, debuted Vintage, a loving look at the state industry and the folks who make wine here against all climatic odds. Among the dignitaries attending the debut: Governor Bob McDonnell, whose administration upped the state’s wine promotion budget by 66 percent this year. By the time Vintage was shown at the Virginia Film Festival, it was tinged with sadness, however, as Daniel Neumeister, Sugarleaf’s young winemaker, who was interviewed in the movie, had been tragically killed by a drunk driver.

McDonnell’s financial shot in the arm was not enough to help Patricia Kluge, the onetime would-be queen of Virginia wine. The 906-acre Kluge Estate Winery & Vineyard went into foreclosure in October to the tune of $34.8 million in unpaid bank debt. (Sweely Estate, another disproportionate newish winery, also faced foreclosure that month, but managed to work out a deal with its lender.) The Kluge auction in November was a grim affair, with no one topping the bank’s own $19 million opening bid. Though that was a sad chapter for Virginia wine—and it remains unclear what will happen to Kluge’s massive property—more modest businesses kept giving it a go, with at least three new wineries celebrating their grand openings and another three siting their vineyards and planting vines.

Categories
Living

Bank retains Kluge for $19M

 




Glass half empty: Looking on as the failed auction commences for Kluge Estate Winery & Vineyard are, from left, Chad Zakaib, former general manager at Jefferson Vineyards; Matthieu Finot, King Family Vineyards winemaker; Virginia Assistant Secretary of Agriculture Matthew Conrad; Jonathan Wheeler, former director of Kluge’s Champagne program; an unidentified observer; and Gregory Brun, former director of winery and vineyard operations at Kluge.




Maybe we should use the spit bucket more often. Because the various sips of Virginia wine industry news over the past couple of weeks have our heads spinning. First, the year’s defining moment turned out to be an anti-climax. The latest chapter for Kluge Estate Winery & Vineyard, the troubled behemoth, came to an unceremonious end on Wednesday, December 8, when Farm Credit of the Virginias bought the foreclosed 906.6-acre property for $19 million. Though seven bidders registered for the auction, there was, in the end, a single bid, coming from the very bank that holds a $34.8 million lien on the property. Including 164 acres of vineyards, a tasting room facility, staff houses, a barrel cave, various winery buildings, and loads of farm and wine-making equipment, the property was the centerpiece of Patricia Kluge and husband Bill Moses’ strategy to be the “East Coast’s premier winery.” Bad business planning and over-production spelled trouble, however. Indeed, on Saturday, December 11, other fruits of their ambition further withered on the vine as 15,000 cases of Kluge wine, some dating to 2004, went on the auction block at The Warehouse in Madison County. With cases selling to a smattering of retailers and wineries for as little as $2 apiece, the trustees eventually enacted a minimum bid of $15 per case for some vintages and $50 or $100 for others. More than half the inventory was still available when, 90 minutes into the wine auction, the trustees suspended public bidding, citing a need to at least cover the cost of taxes with each case sold. 

Whereas people were giddy to get an unheard-of deal at the wine auction, at the winery auction, the mood was dour. “I’m kind of in mourning,” said local distributor Pamela Margaux, whose husband, Claude Thibaut, was at one time the sparkling winemaker at Kluge. “There’s no love lost between us,” she said of Kluge, “but I am sad for the Virginia wine industry.”

William Shmidheiser III, the acting trustee, said the bank would continue to look for a buyer.

Eight digits might be a budget-buster when it comes to an extant winery, but how does $7 million sound? That’s the price tag on The Winery at La Grange, a 20-acre establishment with about six-and-a-half acres under vine. Annual production at the Haymarket winery, the only one in Prince William County, is about 7,000 cases. 

 

Last summer, when Albemarle County amended its zoning ordinances to give greater license to farm wineries to conduct special events—weddings, for the most part—Keswick Vineyards owner Al Schornberg decided not to sell the historic mansion on his property, as planned, but to add special events to his business instead. But after three weddings, by October, Keswick Vineyards faced a court injunction to cease and desist, following action brought by an upset neighbor. The issue? Amplified outdoor music. Seems that living next to the splendor of a vineyard is nice, but living with the strains of “Billie Jean” thumping through the windows is not.

Faced with what perhaps was an unforeseen issue, the Albemarle Planning Commission will take up the farm wineries noise matter on January 18. 

 

Early last week, Chad Zakaib, an oft-quoted industry spokesman and a robust promoter of Virginia wine, had what he calls an “amicable parting” with Jefferson Vineyards, where he was general manager. Winemaker Andy Reagan will now wear the GM hat, too. “I had a vision for where I wanted to take the business and that vision was not shared by the owners. We had long and healthy debates about what to do and when and how fast. In the end we realized we were on different pages and I sort of excused myself,” says Zakaib.

 

Finally, Well Hung Vineyards, a newcomer to the Albemarle scene, is among some 200 wine labels included in “How Wine Became Modern,” a much-heralded, multi-media exhibit at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. Well Hung, as the name might suggest, aims to, er, stand out, locally with a label that features three pairs of male legs seen from the waist down with strategically placed grape clusters sparking the imagination. Modern or cheeky? As with so many things wine, it’s a matter of taste.  

Bank buys Kluge winery for $19M

Though rumors traveled in the past few weeks that Donald Trump might make a bid for the 906.6-acre Kluge Estate Winery & Vineyard, as the carriage house near the entrance to Albemarle House, Patricia Kluge’s baronial onetime home, filled with wine industry types, looky-loo real estate agents, and other top-coated business-looking types, it was clear that the biggest thrill at today’s real estate auction was sure to be the presence of Spudnuts and Dunkin’ Donuts coffee on the back table. With a total of seven bidders registering for the auction, there was, in the end, a single bid. Farm Credit of the Virginias, which holds the lien on the property that includes 164 acres of vineyards, a tasting room, staff houses, a barrel cave, various winery buildings, and loads of farm and wine-making equipment, opened the bidding at $19 million. And that’s where it stayed, despite sing-song imploring by the auctioneer to raise the bid by at least $100,000.

More after the photo.

Chip Saufley, Regional Lending Manager for Farm Credit of the Virginias, closes the deal on the lender’s $19 million bid on Kluge Estate Winery & Vineyard this afternoon.

Within 15 minutes, an important chapter in Virginia’s wine story came to a close. Kluge, who with her husband, Kluge Estate Winery’s CEO Bill Moses, advanced a worldwide strategy for her wines that included everything from so-called flying winemakers (the controversial Frenchman Michel Rolland whose detractors can be seen in the film Mondovino) to sales in China, was in the end shut down by a creditor that wanted payment on its $34.8 million line of credit, thank you very much, without regard for whether New World Red would in fact conquer the planet.

The mood was dour. "I’m kind of in mourning," said local distributor Pamela Margaux, whose husband, Claude Thibaut, is widely considered to have been Kluge’s best sparkling winemaker. "There’s no love lost between us," she said of Kluge, "but I am sad for the Virginia wine industry."

Matt Conrad was in from the state department of agriculture, he said, to let any potential buyers know, "the state has an interest in seeing this kept as a working vineyard and winery."

When the auction closed, William Shmidheiser III, the acting trustee, responded to that sentiment. "If the state has a strong interest in it, that’s nice. If the interest is supported by money, that would be helpful," he said.

Shmidheiser added that the bank will continue to look for a buyer.

The Kluge deathwatch continues this Saturday in Madison County, where some 15,000 cases of warehoused wine dating back to 2004, will be auctioned. Bidders must have a valid ABC license.