Author: Paul Ting

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Culture Food & Drink

Women gather to set a new vision for Virginia’s wine industry

Virginia Women in Wine, a new organization of wine professionals led by Nancy Bauer, finds answers through community. VWW is dedicated to creating the change, support, and resources necessary for women in the Virginia wine industry to thrive. Supplied photo.

The journey to establish Virginia Women in Wine began five years ago with a series of informal get-togethers spearheaded by food and travel writer Nancy Bauer. The gatherings of women who shared a passion for Virginia’s wine industry but found themselves unfamiliar with, or disconnected from, one another grew, and Bauer remembers the moment when the potential for something greater became clear to her. It was during discussions about challenges facing the industry that it dawned on her that “all the answers were in the room.” 

The idea that their informal network should be formalized into a nonprofit entity soon emerged. “It became kind of a running joke,” Bauer says. “Shannon [Horton of Horton Vineyards] would always yell across the room, ‘Nancy, you really need to turn this into a 501(c)(3),’ and I’d yell back, ‘Shannon, you have fun with that.’”

On August 6, Virginia Women in Wine, led by Bauer as the organization’s first president, attracted more than 160 attendees for its launch at Eastwood Farm Winery. The event underscores the excitement and support for empowering women in Virginia’s growing wine industry through innovative media and marketing strategies, community-building, networking, leadership development, and promoting career advancement and equity.

Ultimately, a lunch meeting with Horton and Megan Hereford, co-owner of Stuart, Virginia-based Daring Wine & Cider Co., convinced Bauer to move forward. She drafted a grant proposal for the Virginia Wine Board. The proposal was not funded, but it did spark the formation of a dedicated group of women. 

“I invited all the women who had ever been to one of our dinners or showed any interest in the idea to put their names on the proposal—50 women signed,” Bauer recalls. This list became the foundation of the organization’s inaugural board, which includes 14 members supported by an additional nine committee members and volunteers.

Bauer estimates that 6,000 or more women are employed in the Virginia wine industry and recognizes that they face some unique challenges. As VWW interviewed individuals to develop an upcoming white paper, issues such as pay inequity, lack of respect, and equipment not designed for women emerged. Additionally, child-care challenges are significant, especially during back to school time, which coincides with the start of grape harvest.

Stephanie Pence, co-owner of Brix & Columns Vineyard in McGaheysville, highlights some of these unique challenges, noting that physical size and strength can sometimes require creative workarounds. She says there is often a reaction of surprise when she’s seen driving her tractor, sometimes in a dress, or arriving to unload pallets from a truck. “I’ve received comments like, ‘I thought you were getting your husband to unload this,’” she recalls. For Pence, such moments underscore the importance of community among women in the industry, for bonding and for problem-solving.

This sentiment is echoed by Seidah Armstrong, owner of Unionville’s Sweet Vines Farm Winery, who says, “I love the fact that VWW is essentially saying, ‘Hey, we see you and we support you!’” She notes that there are often isolated parts of the profession where collaboration is limited. VWW can reduce these workplace silos to foster more connection and resources. 

“As a former K-12 administrator, I see continuing education opportunities as a huge challenge for women in the industry,” says Armstrong. “VWW will work to make educational opportunities available for women as they navigate key Virginia-specific issues such as the impact of introducing new varietals or working on creative ways to grow tourism and clientele.”

Athena Eastwood, owner of Eastwood Farm and Winery, emphasizes the significance of representation at all levels, including leadership. “I think it’s important for people to be able to look out and see faces like theirs doing the things they dream of doing,” says Eastwood. “It makes it easier to imagine that you can do it too. When you are a woman just getting started, whether you are working in the cellar or serving on a board for the first time, having another woman in the room or at the table with you can be invaluable.”

Reflecting on the importance of formally organizing as a group, Bauer notes, “This board has reminded me how much more you can get done when you work together.” Admitting that she is “smitten” with the new challenge, she finds the prospect that Virginia Women in Wine might outlast her “pretty exciting.”

For more information or to become a member, visit virginiawomeninwine.com.

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Culture Food & Drink

Growing excitement

Winemakers like Chelsey Blevins of Fifty-third Winery and Vineyard are enthusiastic about the recent harvest. “2023 gave us some of the best fruit I’ve ever seen,” she says. “I believe this will be a benchmark year for Virginia.” Supplied photo.

Most of us check the weather forecast to decide how to dress, or evaluate the impact it has on our travel or events. For farmers who grow grapes and winemakers whose craft is innately tied to the whims and blessings of Mother Nature, the weather report is even more crucial.

Vintage variation, the impact of year-to-year weather differences on wine’s aroma, flavor, and overall quality, is an inherent part of winemaking. While all wine regions experience this phenomenon to some extent, vintage variation in Virginia can be quite dramatic, and poses significant challenges to local winemakers.

An extreme example occurred in 2018, when record amounts of rainfall plagued the region, leading to difficulty ripening fruit, a dilution of sugar and flavor in grapes, and increased disease from fungus. Some producers even abstained from producing red wine that year, due to subpar fruit quality.

Two years later, in 2020, another challenge presented itself: Frost alerts in April and May, capped off by record-setting freezing temperatures on Mother’s Day, damaged grapes and led to severely reduced crop yields. Without ample grapes to work with, winemaking can be an impossible task.

This year, however, the local wine industry was blessed with exceptionally favorable weather conditions for grape cultivation. The resulting fruit quality has local winemakers smiling, and wine enthusiasts eagerly anticipating the release of the 2023 wines.

Jake Busching, who makes limited-production wines under his Jake Busching Wines label, and was recently named winemaker at Eastwood Farm and Winery, has been growing and making wine in Virginia since 1997. He lauds 2023 as one of the best vintages that he has worked with. “While 2009 will remain as the ‘best’ vintage, this one outranks most others,” says Busching. “While the year was dry, it wasn’t very hot, and that is what makes the difference in Virginia. Low water uptake and lower heat at night makes for amazing wine here.”

The difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures is known as diurnal variation. A large diurnal variation means grapes benefit from warmer daytime temperatures for ripening but maintain acidity due to cooler temperatures overnight. Emily Hodson, winemaker at Veritas Vineyards and Winery, also compares this growing season to the best ones. “The most important part, or the magic of the vintage, was the acid retention from having relatively cool nights compared to other vintages,” Hodson says. “Reminds me the most of 2009, which is one of my favorite vintages on record.”

Early Mountain Vineyards’ Maya Hood White maintains that every year in Virginia is unique, but she feels 2023 has “aspects of 2009, 2010, 2017, and 2019,” other vintages considered excellent in Virginia. “The lack of rainfall led to early ripening and an overall low incidence of disease pressure afforded us the luxury of flexibility in when to pick,” says Hood White. Expanding on the factors that made this year special, she mentions early bud break combined with most vineyards being minimally affected by early season frosts.

“Quality was outstanding,” says Matthieu Finot, winemaker at King Family Vineyards. “I feel like all the reds outperformed. I had some cabernet franc with color so deep that it looks like petit verdot … and [there is] great acid on the whites.”

Unsurprisingly, multiple winemakers mention cabernet franc as a star in 2023. Ben Jordan, who has been a winemaker in Virginia since 2012 and last year co-founded the Common Wealth Crush venture, says, “I love how the cabernet francs have varietal aromatics and flavors alongside richness and ripe tannins.”

Benoit Pineau, winemaker at Pollak Vineyards, says “Cabernet franc, as usual,” but also highlights merlot, a variety that often receives less attention, as exceptional in this vintage. In fact, Busching, Hood White, and Jordan are all enthusiastic about this year’s merlot. Jordan goes as far as to say, “definitely the best Merlot vintage I have seen in the state.”

Pineau brings up a second variety not usually in the spotlight: cabernet sauvignon. Chelsey Blevins, winemaker at Fifty-third Winery and Vineyard, echoes this sentiment. Asked what was most impressive this year, she responds, “Our 2023 cabernet sauvignon, which came on to the crush pad in near perfect condition with some of the best numbers I have ever seen. … Getting cabernet sauvignon ripe in Virginia is a feat in and of itself. … So far, the wine is turning out to be a cellar favorite.”

In addition to excellent quality, there are other interesting projects coming out of the 2023 vintage. Several winemakers are continuing to expand their use of different winemaking techniques. Finot is increasing his use of whole cluster inclusion in fermentation and Hood White is expanding the co-fermentation projects at Early Mountain. Blevins is experimenting with a dessert wine made in the ice wine style. This utilizes the cryoextraction technique, removing water from grapes by freezing, resulting in a higher concentration of sugar and flavor.

Others are excited to be working with grape varieties less commonly seen in Virginia. Pineau will release the first nebbiolo from Pollak, produced entirely from grapes grown by Pollak. Hodson is also working with two varieties new to her, tannat and sauvignon gris. Jordan promises a sparkling chenin blanc, produced with the same techniques used to make Champagne.

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Culture Food & Drink

Chill master

It may not be the obvious choice in warmer weather, but chillable red wine is an excellent way to explore new flavors and challenge conventional norms. File photo.

As temperatures rise, wine enthusiasts naturally adjust their drinking preferences. Besides the desire for something chilled, lighter, and more refreshing in the glass, the culinary options tend to be lighter as well. Seafoods, salads, grilled chicken, and similar dishes pair better with lighter-bodied wines with higher acidity. 

Opting for a red wine, instead of white or rosé, is considered an unconventional choice in the summer. Red wines are typically served at room temperature to allow their depth, body, and complexity of aroma and flavor to shine. However, as it heats up outdoors, so does the temperature of wine in the glass, which can amplify the perception of alcohol, often already high in bigger-bodied red wines, making it heavier and less refreshing. 

Warmer temperatures also intensify the higher amount of tannins in red, resulting in a more astringent and drying sensation on the palate that’s unappealing when seeking out a thirst-quenching beverage. What is often overlooked is that some red wines benefit from a slight chill. They may even be intentionally crafted in a style best served at a lower temperature. These wines offer an interesting and often delightful alternative for warm weather enjoyment.

In general, chillable red wines possess characteristics that allow them to retain the allure of red wine while providing a pleasurable experience when chilled. Look for reds that are lighter bodied, lower in alcohol, higher in acidity, and lower in tannins.

To produce these lighter wines, producers turn to grape varieties such as pinot noir or chambourcin. Harvesting fruit earlier, at slightly lower ripeness levels, helps retain acidity and can result in lighter-bodied wines with lower alcohol levels. Limiting skin contact before pressing the grapes will decrease tannin levels. And some winemakers blend white grape varieties with red grape varieties, reducing body and tannins.

When served chilled, wines of this nature often reveal vibrant fruit flavors and refreshing acidity, in addition to exhibiting great versatility when it comes to food pairing. Keep in mind that even red wine meant to be chilled is not typically served as cold as white wine, and overly cold temperatures can mask the flavors in wine. By experimenting, you might find the best of both worlds—a chilled and refreshing drink that still retains the complexity and flavor associated with red wine.

Play it cool with these local reds

Early Mountain Vineyards 2022 Young Wine Red ($24)
The hybrid grape chambourcin grows consistently in Virginia, and provides a unique combination of good color extraction and low to moderate tannin levels. The 2022 Young Wine is 58 percent chambourcin blended with 42 percent vidal blanc, which is a white hybrid grape. This is intentional winemaking that creates a highly approachable, lean-bodied wine with minimal tannins, low alcohol content, and refreshing acidity.

Lightwell Survey 2022 Between the Light and the Dark ($25)
A collaborative project with Troddenvale Cider, this intriguing blend combines 67 percent grapes including chambourcin and vidal blanc, with 33 percent Ashmead’s Kernel apples. Flavors of citrus, cranberry, green apple, and blossom finish with a hint of gentle tannins. With a modest alcohol level of only 10 percent and refreshing acidity, this blend is light on the palate and very easy to drink.

Bluestone Vineyard 2022 Half Bubble Off-Center ($27.50)
Bluestone characterizes this as rosé, but it has enough color to be considered a light-bodied red wine. Made with 100 percent chambourcin, the bubbles were created utilizing the pétillant naturel method. In short, the wine was bottled just prior to completing fermentation, allowing the naturally occurring carbon dioxide to remain as it finished fermenting in the bottle. The result is a playful wine that delivers red fruit flavors accompanied by a rolling effervescence on the palate.

Ankida Ridge 2021 Pinot Noir ($58)
Pinot noir is suitable for chilling. The grape thrives in cooler conditions, which help preserve its acidity and keep alcohol levels moderate. Additionally, the grape has thin skins, resulting in lower extraction and tannin levels. This example from Ankida Ridge features flavors of bright red cherry and cranberry, complemented by notes of dried leaves and spice. Wonderful without chilling, but a light chill makes it an excellent option for a summer evening.

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Knife & Fork Magazines

Not your garden varietals

Supplied photo.

As temperatures rise and the days get longer, wine lovers look for different options in their glass. Whether chosen to accompany a day by the water, an afternoon on the deck, or an evening gathered around the grill, most of us move away from big-bodied, high-tannin, and high-alcohol red wines and instead reach for lighter, brighter, and more refreshing alternatives.

While many already have a “go to” wine for the summer months, perhaps a favorite chardonnay or rosé that you turn to every year, look for these local, and perhaps lesser-known, varieties if you’re open to something new.

Sauvignon blanc

Perhaps a surprising choice to lead with, since sauvignon blanc is widely known and popular worldwide. However, you’re likely drinking options from France, where this grape originated, or from New Zealand, where examples have become known for their prominent expression of grassy aromas and flavors. It seems that, while sauvignon blanc has been produced for quite some time in Virginia, only recently have local examples started to receive greater attention and garner critical appreciation.

Some people may not like the distinctive aroma and green grassy notes of this wine, but the best examples balance those components with citrus, green apple, and sometimes peach flavors. The Stinson Vineyards 2022 Sauvignon Blanc and the Grace Estates Winery 2021 First Baron Sauvignon Blanc are two local examples of this balanced style. The natural acidity is crisp and refreshing on the palate. A great option for hot weather and natural pairing with salads, oysters, or fish.

Albariño

This grape variety originates from the Rías Baixas region of Spain, located along its southwestern coast. The climate there is humid with frequent rainstorms, which led many local winemakers to surmise that albariño might also grow well here in Virginia. The grape grows with an open cluster structure, increasing ventilation and reducing disease. It also features relatively tough skins, which helps resist damage from pests. 

Chrysalis Vineyards and Horton Vineyards are credited as among the first to plant albariño in Virginia. There still isn’t a lot of it locally in terms of acreage, but the variety is quickly becoming recognized by growers and winemakers as producing excellent results in both the vineyard and in the winery. As a result, more and more albariño is being planted and data shows it is currently the fastest-growing grape variety in the state. 

The resulting wine is extremely popular in Spain and in neighboring Portugal where it pairs well with the local tapas cuisine and ingredients such as smoked ham or anything from the sea. Stylistically, it is a crisp, white wine with high acidity featuring aromas and flavors of lemon, lime zest, honeysuckle, pear, and frequently a characteristic hint of salinity. Try two excellent examples produced nearby: the Blenheim 2021 Vineyards Albariño and the Afton Mountain Vineyards 2021 Albariño.

Vermentino

Vermentino is an Italian variety predominately found in Sardinia, an island located in the Mediterranean Sea with a maritime climate that is hot and humid. Like albariño, vermentino grapes grow in loose clusters and have relatively thick skins which helps to reduce disease and pest damage. Barboursville Vineyards deserves credit for championing vermentino in Virginia, and the success of this variety locally is almost entirely due to its efforts.

The Barboursville Vineyards 2021 Vermentino Reserve is a medium-bodied, high-acid white wine with notes of citrus, white peaches, green herbs, and wet stone minerality. Its intriguing complexity and slightly fuller mouthfeel pairs well with grilled fish, vegetable pasta, or even a seafood stew.

Various vintages of the Barboursville Vermentino Reserve have been included in the Governor’s Cup Case for five years in a row. The case recognizes the top 12 wines in the annual competition, so its consistent inclusion is a testament to the high quality and crowd- pleasing flavors of this wine.

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Culture Food & Drink

Pour it on

Kylie Britt, Tasha Durrett, and Reggie Leonard at Wine Fest. Photo by Paige Poprocky.

An eager crowd of more than 300 people gathered at The Wool Factory’s Wine Fest in late January. The ambitious tasting connected a broad range of Virginia’s smaller producers to the public over the course of five hours, as part of the venue’s mission to further establish a community around Virginia wine.

Kylie Britt, The Wool Factory’s wine director, says the overall intention of the hospitality site is to highlight local craft products, and offer a curated selection to its guests. Wine Fest addressed that mission by giving lesser-known beverage makers an outlet to expand their reach, and by offering customers a tasting experience not normally available. Sixteen producers from as far away as the Shenandoah Valley and northern Virginia poured and discussed their products at the event. “When wine drinkers can directly talk to and learn from winemakers, it enhances understanding and appreciation of the craft,” says Britt.

Even before opening, the WF team began collaborating with Joy Ting, a local independent winemaker (who is married to this writer), to produce a line of small batch, locally produced Virginia wine under The Wool Factory label. The discussions with Ting were also the genesis for The Workshop, an onsite boutique that includes a retail wine store that not only champions Virginia wine, but highlights smaller producers and winemaker side projects that often don’t have their own locations for tastings and sales. 

Kathy Wiedemann, who drove two hours from northern Virginia to attend, says it was a unique opportunity. “I looked at the lineup of producers that were going to be pouring and I just knew I had to attend. I opted to stay overnight … so there was some additional cost to it for me, but it was well worth it.”

Patois Cider’s Patrick Collins served his own products at Wine Fest, and says he observed one of the most diverse groups he’d poured for in Virginia. “The producers, all with their own creative perspectives and intentions, presented their work themselves, divorced from serene tasting room vistas or other distraction,” says Collins. “We were all there to focus on what was in the glass and why.”

Wine educator Reggie Leonard attended Wine Fest as an enthusiast, and says he loved seeing friends from Charlottesville, Richmond, and northern Virginia all under the same roof. “This event felt very emblematic of some of my hopes and even some of the best ways I’ve experienced Virginia wine as a whole—warm, inclusive, interesting, and well done,” says Leonard, who was also impressed with the creativity and new ideas. He says he tasted wines that ranged “from reds and whites, and grapes and peaches, to dry and sparkly, and sweet and herbaceous.” 

Britt agrees that this type of event is a great forum for winemakers to flex their creative skills and push the boundaries of wine and cider as we know it. 

It also shows how far Virginia wine has advanced, says Domaine Finot’s Matthieu Finot, who sees a place for his own wine craft in the small producer movement. “It is the crowd that I like to be associated with, the trailblazers of the indie winemaking scene,” says Finot. “Not sure how to describe us, but definitely slightly outside the norm.”

The takeaway for producers and consumers is a unique view of the current state of Virginia wine, and a glimpse of what things might look like going forward. As he was making plans to attend, Leonard says, “I couldn’t wait to be in the room where a renaissance was happening.”

Learn more about the producers featured at Wine Fest:

Blenheim Vineyards 
blenheimvineyards.com

Bluestone Vineyard 
bluestonevineyard.com

Dogwood & Thistle Wine 
dogwoodthistlewine.com

Domaine Finot 
lofiwines.com

Early Mountain Vineyards 
earlymountain.com

Guide Wine 
instagram.com/guidewines

Jake Busching Wines 
jakebuschingwines.com

Joy Ting Wine 
instagram.com/joytingwine

Lightwell Survey Wines 
lightwellsurvey.com

Midland Wine 
instagram.com/midland.wine 

Patois Cider 
patoiscider.com

R.A.H. Wine Company 
rahwineco.com

Quartzwood Farm 
quartzwoodfarm.com

Star Party Winery 
starpartywinery.com

Walsh Family Wine 
walshfamilywine.com

Wool Factory Wine 
thewoolfactory.com
Categories
Culture Food & Drink

By the glass

Market Street Wine’s Siân Richards says younger wine drinkers’ desire to explore beyond the classics has led to curiosity about emerging wine regions, as well as the increasingly popular organic, biodynamic, and natural wine categories at her shop. Photo: Eze Amos.

As the year draws to a close, I wanted to gain some insight into what wine consumers are drinking by asking local shops what their best-selling beverages were in 2022. While many were reluctant to name specific bottles or producers, the information they provided reveals some interesting trends.

Rosé all day

It appears that local drinkers continue to be head-over-heels about pink wine.

Certainly, rosé can play a lot of roles, whether you need a wine to be lean, bright, and refreshing, or you want one with a bit more complexity and depth of flavor. As a result, this category always seems to be a crowd-pleaser. At Wine Warehouse and In VinoVeritas, rosé was among the top sellers, especially in the summer months. Wine Warehouse had robust sales of over 50 different rosés, while customers at In Vino Veritas sought out rosé from the South of France.

Classic, quality wines at value prices

It should come as no surprise that there is steady demand for wine produced from traditionally well-known grapes from classic regions. At the same time, drinkers of all ages are looking for a price point that doesn’t make them think twice about opening a bottle on a Tuesday night. Will Curley at The Wine Guild of Charlottesville says his sales trends show that customers are looking for bottles “that don’t shirk on quality and still fit into their weekly budget” and “demonstrate terrific value for classic, carefully made styles.” A good example of these is the Guild’s top-selling Bodegas LAN Rioja Estate Bottled Reserva, which has all the berry fruit, hints of cedar and smoke, and structure that you expect from classic Rioja wine, and a price in the low $20 range.

Portuguese reds

It was a pleasant surprise to hear from In Vino Veritas’ Erin Scala that Portuguese red blends are among the top sellers. While Portugal is largely known for port wine, the country has a long history of producing excellent wine outside of the sweet dessert category. Recently, there has been increasing awareness of wines made in Portugal, especially the robust red blends. Despite this uptick in interest, wine from Portugal is still in less demand than wine from other European countries, so those looking for some serious value in terms of price-to-quality ratio can find it here. Scala mentions the Fita da Fitapreta and the Dow Vale do Bomfim as notable bottles to try.

Organic, bio­dynamic, natural

Siân Richards, co-owner of Market Street Wine, has seen a trend among younger wine drinkers with curious palates and less focus on traditionally known regions and producers. Richards says these customers show an interest in organic, biodynamic wines, and natural wines. The shop stocks many popular options and the staff can help interested customers with recommendations. She is quick to note that their best-selling wines are always ones featured as Wines of the Week, and cites this as evidence that, while customers may be willing to explore, they are still looking for trusted guidance in their drinking choices. Market Street Wine attracts people who want “a relationship with a local shop with a carefully selected inventory and … personal recommendations based on us knowing/hearing where their interests are.”

Virginia wine

An encouraging sign for our local wine industry comes from The Workshop (the wine store located at The Wool Factory). Wine Director Kylie Britt says the best-selling wines are consistently the locally produced Virginia wines sold under The Wool Factory private label, while other Virginia wines are also consistently among the top sellers. The Wool Factory hosts free weekly tastings and frequently invites local producers to pour at these events, and as a result, their wines top weekly sales. “Our guests love local wines since they can build a connection to the producers,” says Britt. Here’s hoping you find something fabulous in your glass to celebrate the New Year, and cheers to more fine wine discoveries in 2023!

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News

Grape invaders

The spotted lanternfly, first detected in Virginia at the beginning of 2018, had made its way to Albemarle County by summer 2021. File photo.

There’s a new pest in town—and it’s after our grapes, apples, and hops. Oh, and it could also wreak havoc on loggers, certified organic and certified naturally grown producers, and our yards. You may have heard of it: the spotted lanternfly. 

The spotted lanternfly is a planthopper native to areas of Asia, particularly China, that has spread invasively through accidental introduction of its eggs to other regions including South Korea, Japan, and the United States. It was first detected domestically in September 2014 in Pennsylvania, and has since spread to most of the northeastern United States. Although it feeds widely on many different plants, the SLF displays a fondness for grapevines, fruit trees, and forest trees. Once established, it can cause the widespread loss of agricultural crops—in the state of Pennsylvania it’s estimated the SLF has caused the agricultural and forestry industries to lose several hundred million dollars annually, as well as a possible loss of thousands of jobs.

The lanternfly was detected in Virginia in January 2018, and first seen in Albemarle County in July of 2021. Its local arrival is of significant concern, a threat to our wine grapes and other crops such as apples, peaches, and hops. While area farmers have not yet seen much evidence of the pest, most agree it’s just a matter of time, and the understanding of invasive species such as SLF suggests it is probably already too late to eradicate it.

Jake Busching, winemaker at Hark Vineyards and Jake Busching Wines, has decades of experience growing grapes in Virginia. He cites previous examples of invasive pests such as the spotted wing drosophila and marmorated stink bug when he says that SLF is almost certainly here to stay. He also expresses faith in the efforts of scientists to mitigate the effects once it reaches local vineyards, noting Penn State University is out front in terms of research. “There will be seasons of difficulty and some damage, but growers in other states are leading the way with reacting,” says Busching. “So, when it gets to our region, we will have a process to deal with them.”

Winemaker Jake Busching says that while the spotted lanternfly is here to stay, he has faith in scientists’ efforts to mitigate its effects on local vineyards. File photo.

Henry Chiles (the 10th), whose family runs local favorites Carter Mountain Orchard, Chiles Peach Orchard, Spring Valley Orchard, and Chiswell Farm and Winery, admits he’s anxious to see what the impact will be on his crops. Like Busching, Chiles is resigned to the fact that eradication is likely impossible, and spread is inevitable. In addition to spotted wing drosophila and stink bugs, he also cites the Japanese beetle and emerald ash borer as examples of invasive species that “got away from us” in terms of quarantine and eradication efforts.

While there is currently limited awareness of SLF, Chiles says, “I think the general public will become very aware once it is better established. SLF can and will feed on landscape trees and shrubs in high numbers. The real problem for homeowners will be the honeydew [slang for the secretions of SLF], which is a sugary rich solution that quickly grows sooty mold and makes everything black, including your backyard patio set.”

Douglas Pfeiffer, fruit entomologist at Virginia Tech, hypothesizes that the risk to orchard crops, hops, and vegetables may be less than to grapevines, but that the issue needs further research. He does, however, express concern about possible effects on the logging industry. “Eggs are laid on trees and are present for about eight months of the year,” says Pfeiffer. “Since the eastern United States population is the first occurrence outside of Asia, the potential for egg movement may complicate international shipment of logs.”

“By far, the most vulnerable crop is grape, where proper management is required to avoid vine death,” Pfeiffer says, noting that current control of the issue is centered on insecticide. “While SLF is not hard to kill, during the adult stage there is a problem with continued immigration into vineyards. There are some indirect costs here that need to be considered. The sprays needed in vineyards may disrupt natural controls for other pests, so vigilance will be needed to avoid problems associated with mealybugs and leafroll virus. The added sprays themselves will pose a cost for growers.”

Ruth Saunders, whose family has been farming Silver Creek Orchards for seven generations, is ready with such a plan. She compares the current situation to developing a spray program for stink bugs in the apple orchards over a decade ago. “I feel like we are ahead of the curve with the spotted lanternfly,” says Saunders. “We know it is here, and we just need to address it when it arrives on our farm. I feel like operations that have a solid spray program and are detail-oriented in the care of their fruit will be able to deal with this pest. Vineyards that are not committed to a solid spray program may struggle.”

For Karl Hambsch, owner of Loving Cup Vineyard & Winery, the only certified-organic vineyard in Virginia, the use of synthetic insecticides is not an option, and finding alternative treatments for SLF is of utmost importance. “We only have one organic spray that might kind of work against SLF,” says Hambsch. “So, once it gets here, we will have our hands full … invasive pests are definitely a wild card that might upset the good thing we have going here.”

As scientists work on possible solutions other than insecticides, efforts are growing to slow the spread by establishing quarantine areas and eliminating SLF when found. In addition, there is ongoing education about how to recognize all the life stages of the pest, how to prevent transporting it from one area to another, and to encourage people to report seeing the lanternfly. These efforts also involve active reduction of the population of a tree known as Ailanthus altissima (tree of heaven), which grows widely in Virginia. Ironically, this tree is also an invasive species and is a key host for SLF. The hope is that these efforts will slow the spread of SLF and allow more time to find potential long-term solutions.

Hambsch insists that there should be more awareness about this issue in our community. “I’d encourage folks to search for spotted lanternfly on YouTube if they want to see why SLF is so concerning,” he says. “Vineyards might be high-profile, but every property owner in our area will be affected. So, it’s an everyone problem, not just a vineyard problem. … If the community could become super-involved in monitoring, identifying, and killing the insects as soon they are found, we can buy the scientists a couple more years to work on the problem.” 

It’s not just Hambsch putting out this message. According to Grace Monger, Virginia Tech’s associate agriculture and natural resources extension agent for Nelson County, “The public can help by participating in citizen science projects to track the spread and by checking their vehicles and other materials before moving them. SLF depends on human assisted transportation, so if we can educate the public … we can have a major impact. In a world with an increasingly global economy, increased transportation of goods, and increased consumer disconnect with food production, our best tool is public education.”

While Monger admits “the natural progression of most invasive species is that they’ll continue to spread despite prevention efforts,” she is careful to emphasize that it is not a futile effort. “If we never resist, all we would have would be dense monocultures of invasive species and no agriculture industry or natural world to enjoy. Chipping away at current populations and limiting spread are the two most significant management strategies.”

Monger is even more specific when talking about the area around Charlottesville. “Albemarle County produces 21 percent of the wine grapes in the state of Virginia,” she says. “If there is anyone that should be concerned about this issue, it’s Albemarle County residents. The tax dollars those vineyards bring in is substantial.”

To learn more about the SLF, go to albemarle.org and search for “spotted lanternfly.”

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Culture Food & Drink

Better and better

Founded in 1976, Shenandoah Vineyards is the oldest winery in the valley—and the second oldest in Virginia. Supplied photo.

As a founding father wine geek, Thomas Jefferson is typically the first person who springs to mind when discussing the history of our wine region. But it was Emma Randel who literally put Virginia wine on the map in 1982.

Largely due to the efforts of Randel, who recognized the importance of the area as a unique growing region, Shenandoah Valley AVA was the first AVA in the state. Randel and her husband, Jim, are considered some of the original visionaries of the Virginia wine industry, having founded Shenandoah Vineyards in 1976, the oldest winery in the valley and the second oldest in the state.

An American Viticultural Area is a federally recognized grape-growing region with defined boundaries. To achieve this, a region must show evidence of something distinctive and defining, such as climate or soil. Currently in Virginia, there are eight AVAs, a testament to the wide range of growing conditions that exist in the state, and the diversity that is possible in the local wine industry.

Area wine-lovers are likely most familiar with the Monticello AVA, with Charlottesville at the heart and center of the region. Many may not be as familiar with the Shenandoah Valley AVA (it borders the Monticello region to the west), and the wineries that are a short drive away. It’s a scenic, exciting area that’s worth exploring—and it plays a significant role in both the history and the future of the Virginia wine industry.

The Shenandoah Valley AVA is also the largest in the state, bounded on the eastern side by the Blue Ridge Mountains, on the western side by the Appalachian and Allegheny plateaus, and spreading north into West Virginia. The region features limestone soil, warm daytime temperatures combined with cooler nights, an almost constant breeze, and much lower average rainfall than any other location in Virginia. Drier conditions, due to a “rain shadow” that exists between the Allegheny and Blue Ridge Mountains, help with the challenges of mold and mildew in growing grapes locally, and allows the production of high-quality grapes with less vineyard spraying. 

The result of this climate is wine higher in acidity and slightly lower in alcohol that often taste brighter, livelier, and leaner on the palate. This parallels the evolution of consumer preferences, as a younger generation seeks lower-alcohol, lighter-bodied, easier-drinking wines that don’t require years of aging. There is also value to be found here, as increased distance from major cities and lower production costs result in high-quality wines at relatively low prices.

Many Virginia wineries not located in the Shenandoah Valley are sourcing fruit from the region because of these characteristics. It’s a trend that isn’t going away. There is growing demand for vineyards and land to plant future vineyards. 

So, look to grapes grown just to the west for fantastic wine to drink now—and even better wine to come. It’s clear that the Shenandoah Valley not only has a historically important place in Virginia wine, but also a promising future.

Go West and wine yourself

Wineries in the Shenandoah Valley AVA stretch from as far north as Winchester to just south of Roanoke. Those on the northern end make for a nice day trip from northern Virginia/Washington DC. Below is a list of wineries a short drive from Charlottesville.

Barren Ridge Vineyards Opened in 2008 and located at the family’s former apple orchard, Barren Ridge has amazing views west toward the Allegheny mountains. Don’t miss the 2015 Meritage, winner of a Governor’s Cup Gold Medal.

Ox-Eye Vineyards The tasting room is in the historic Wharf District of Staunton, and all the grapes are grown on the family farm in Augusta County. Well known for its riesling, the winery also features interesting grape varieties such as lemberger and grüner veltiner.

Rockbridge Vineyard & Brewery Owners Shepherd Rouse and Jane Millott-Rouse started planting in 1988, and in 2022 Rouse was named Grower of the Year by the Virginia Vineyards Association. Seek out the 2018 V d’Or dessert wine, included in the 2022 Governor’s Cup Case.

Brix & Columns Vineyard Owners Steve and Stephanie Pence began planting vines in 2015, and continue to expand their estate vineyards. The tasting room features mountain views, and is presided over by Wyatt, a black and white Great Dane who acts as unofficial greeter. Try the 2019 Chardonnay, which balances a full body with bright fruit flavor.

Bluestone Vineyard  Family owned and operated, the vineyard was started in 2008, and its name comes from the local slang for limestone, which can be seen at various places on the property. Winemaker Lee Hartman is focused on wine that truly reflects the Shenandoah Valley. His 2017 Houndstooth red blend won both a Governor’s Cup Gold Medal and the 2021 Shenandoah Cup. 

Jump Mountain Vineyard About a 75-minute drive from Charlottesville, Jump Mountain requires reservations and is open only on weekends. Some lesser-seen grapes are grown here including refosco, lagrein, and sagrantino. The core wine is cabernet sauvignon, which doesn’t always flourish locally, but good vineyard site selection appears to have made all the difference. The 2017 bottling impresses with structure and flavors characteristic of the variety.

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Culture Food & Drink

Thirst place

Decipher Brewing’s Barley Late Kölsch won Best in Show at the Virginia Craft Beer Cup competition. Photo: Tristan Williams.

August is Virginia Craft Beer month and, as part of the celebration, the Virginia Craft Brewers Guild hosted the annual Virginia Craft Beer Cup competition. This year, a record 106 breweries submitted 396 beers, and several Charlottesville-area breweries won significant awards (see below). 

Noteworthy among local winners is Three Notch’d Brewing Company’s first-place award in the Hazy IPA category for its King of Clouds Juicy IPA, and Decipher Brewing’s Best in Show win, grabbing the Cup for its Barley Late Kölsch.

The King of Clouds is a flagship brew at Three Notch’d, and something that brewmaster Dave Warwick is proud of. Hazy IPAs are extremely popular with consumers right now and, as a result, it is one of the event’s most competitive categories. Three Notch’d brews its winning hazy with Idaho 7 and Citra hops, resulting in citrus and tropical fruit aromas and flavors that combine for a smooth, sweet mouthfeel and delicate finish. 

The winning Decipher brew, in addition to being a significant accolade for co-founder and head brewer Brad Burton, is also a nod to the Charlottesville homebrewing community. Burton says that Barley Late had its origins in 2019 when homebrewer Tom Wallace won the Stanardsville Oktoberfest homebrew competition, sponsored in part by Decipher. The prize included the chance to brew the beer through Decipher’s commercial system and release it to the public. On brew day, the shipment of barley had not yet arrived, and they had to scramble to find some. Just after they started brewing, there was a knock on the door and the original order was delivered, hence the name.

Wallace, an accomplished brewer in his own right, helped found local homebrewing club Charlottesville Area Masters of Real Ale in 2007. During his 23 years of homebrewing, Wallace won several local and regional homebrewing awards, including the one that resulted in his collaboration with Decipher. Wallace has assisted Burton with brewing Barley Late several times since 2019, and is very excited that the resulting Kölsch is now recognized across the state. 

Raising a glass Charlottesville-area breweries pour it on to win at the Virginia Craft Beer Cup

Blue Mountain Barrel House

Third place, Experimental: Raspberries in Acid

This is an imperial witbier brewed with lactobacillus, and fermented with one pound per barrel of raspberry purée in wine barrels from Thatch Winery (recently purchased by Michael Shaps Wineworks). It’s a popular beer, and the brewery holds an annual release party for it.

Blue Mountain Brewery

Second place, Pilsner: Classic Lager

The name of the beer truly speaks for itself, as this checks off every box when you think of what a traditional lager should be. BMB’s pre-prohibition-style recipe yields a light aroma, grassy hops, and sweet grains on the palate.

Blue Mountain Brewery

Third place, Fruit: Drink a Peach

This is a classic gose recipe that is sour fermented with peach purée. A crisp, light-bodied beer, it is full of the aromas and flavors of peach that then transition into a tart, sour flavor on the palate with some slight salinity at the finish. 

Decipher Brewing

Second place, Strong Ale: Artemis

In addition to winning the overall Cup, Decipher’s Artemis wheat wine took home second place in the Strong Ale category. While wheat wine is not as well known as other styles, it is popular among some craft brew lovers. Brewing it involves a labor-intensive process and uses a portion of wheat in its grain bill (in addition to barley malt). The Artemis is a sweet, malty, high-alcohol beer that’s smooth and balanced on the palate. Of note, this beer also won a bronze medal at the World Beer Cup competition, the largest beer competition in the world with over 10,500 entries from 57 different countries.

South Street Brewery

First place, Fruit: Blues Buster

Of note, Blue Mountain Brewery acquired South Street Brewery in 2014, so the Blue Mountain Brewery family essentially received both the first and third place awards in the Fruit category this year. That’s quite a showing considering the competition received entries from all over the state. Their Blues Buster beer is a very popular sour-fruited gose fermented with blueberry purée. Unfortunately, this beer isn’t available in distribution, but cans are available at breweries. For fans of the Blues Brothers, the can’s art will bring a smile.

South Street Brewery

Second place, Wood: Barrel-Aged Satan’s Pony

South Street has brewed Satan’s Pony Red/Amber ale since the brewery’s very beginning, and it has always been popular. The barrel-aged version spends time in bourbon barrels, and the result is a big, flavorful, higher-alcohol beer with lots of body and hops, caramel, oak, and vanilla flavors.

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2022 Best of C-VILLE Staff Picks

Bottle by bottle

Guillaume Gasparini and Daniel Kaufman’s wine shop, Bottle House, brings a selection of classic wines to West Main (plus: tastings with high-end bottles!). Photo: John Robinson

It’s no secret Charlottesville is home to a wonderful food and wine scene—situated in the middle of Virginia wine country, benefiting from strong ties to farm-to-table culture, and featuring outstanding chef-driven restaurants and diverse cuisine. In this environment, it should not be a surprise that many local wine shops also flourish. All the favorites presented here feature knowledgeable staff to help find the bottle that best suits your taste and needs, but every shop also has its own focus and character, and part of the fun is finding the one that best suits you.

Market Street Wine

First opened in 1979, Market Street is a mainstay that “relaunched” in 2018 when the former owner decided to retire, and two employees purchased the shop rather than let it close. Now, the focus is on organic, biodynamic, and natural wine from small and family-owned wineries. In addition to focusing on these “wines with stories,” owner Siân Richards wants the store to make “everyone feel welcome in the world of wine.”

Wine Warehouse

For more than two decades, Wine Warehouse has been a no-frills shop that takes pride in a broad and carefully curated collection representing both quality and value. The novice and experienced wine drinker alike will find something to love here, and the staff does an excellent job of making approachable suggestions whether you know nothing about wine or want to talk about all the esoteric details. Widely known among area wine lovers as the store where “if you can’t find it, they can find it for you,” they also feature an amazingly complete selection of craft beers from all over the world. 

In Vino Veritas

Owner Erin Scala describes her store as “global selections focused on small producers.” At the same time, Scala features a selection of high-quality Virginia wines on her shelves, and is a great supporter of the local industry. Scala, an experienced sommelier who also oversees the wine and beverage program for Common House, is the true attraction here, and her deep knowledge, professionalism, relationships with winemakers, and infectious enthusiasm for the world of wine encourages customers to try new things and dig deeper on old favorites.

Bottle House

Bottle House opened in 2020 and has quickly become known for its hospitality, as wine lovers take advantage of its central location on West Main and free tastings that often feature unusual or higher-end wines. The owners, Daniel Kaufman, who also owns Public Fish & Oyster directly across the street, and Guillaume Gasparini, a sommelier and part of the family who formerly owned Restaurant Pomme in Gordonsville, focus on more classic wines. Their knowledge and experience bring depth to the inventory and there is no hesitation to bring in high-quality bottles—something connoisseurs will appreciate.

Crushpad

A new offering on the Downtown Mall from local restauranter Vincent Derquenne, well-known locally for both his palate and his personal wine cellar. The question can be asked, is Crushpad a wine bar with delicious food that also sells wine, or is it a retail wine shop that begs the customer to linger with inviting seating and wonderful small bites? Whatever question you are asking, Crushpad is the answer. The food is a step above the average wine bar, and the carefully selected offerings clearly reflect a deep love of wine. Those with a soft spot for large format bottles and Champagne will find simpatico here.