Author: Paul Ting

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Magazines Weddings

Something for everyone

Photo: Staff photo

With its small-town feel, beautiful mountain views, historic landmarks, and a strong local food and wine culture, the Charlottesville area is a popular spot to get hitched. For brides and grooms looking to make their celebration truly representative of place, local wines are an important piece of the planning. Here are some can’t-miss recommendations for what should be on the table and in the glass.

Thibaut-Jannison Winery Virginia Fizz ($25)

Nothing signifies a celebration more than sparkling wine. Claude Thibaut is widely considered the father of Virginia sparkling, and remains the standard-bearer for bubbles in our state. His Virginia Fizz is made in the Charmat method, which involves carbonating wine in large-volume tanks rather than in individual bottles. This means it is a bit more affordable, and a good option for larger groups. (If you have the budget and want to upgrade, consider the Blanc de Chardonnay ($33), made in the traditional method of champagne, to serve to the head table or for smaller gatherings.)

The Virginia Fizz brings flavors of citrus, green apples, and pear along with its effervescence, and finishes with a slight sweetness reminiscent of green melon. This is a great option for welcoming people on arrival or when canapés are served, and it can be brought out again when it’s time to raise a glass for toasting. It’s an absolutely perfect pairing with wedding cake.

Blenheim Vineyards 2020 Albariño ($23)

Albariño is still a relatively sparsely planted grape in Virginia but is showing great promise when made into a crisp, refreshing white wine. Kirsty Harmon, Blenheim’s winemaker, uses a light touch that keeps the bright character of this variety intact, and the result from the 2020 vintage is a lively and delicious wine.

In the glass, an elegant and floral nose, reminiscent of white flowers, yields to flavors of citrus and lemongrass with an underlying note of minerality. The wine is lean, acidic, and very refreshing. This would pair well with appetizers such as citrus salad, shrimp cocktail, raw oysters, or whitefish.

Stinson Vineyards 2018 Chardonnay ($24)

Chardonnay is a grape that can flourish in many climates, including Virginia’s, and can express itself in many ways depending on the intention of the winemaker. At Stinson, the wine is produced in a style that avoids extremes, and the result is a versatile white wine that offers a bit more body and palate weight than the albariño.

On the tongue, flavors of apple, pear, citrus, and white peaches combine with hints of spices such as vanilla and ginger. Medium acidity and a long finish give an overall impression of a wine that is rich but refreshing at the same time. Serve with favorites such as smoked salmon, chicken, or pasta with cream sauce.

King Family 2021 Crosé Rosé ($25)

If you’re looking to offer a rosé wine at your event, this is one of the best known and bestselling rosés in the area, and for good reason. This merlot-based crowd-pleaser is deliciously well-balanced and perfect for an outdoor venue on a hot day. It is produced with a medium body and strong acidity, which means it can pair well with a wide variety of food.

On the nose, lemon and watermelon combine with a hint of green herb and florals. Flavors follow the lead of these aromas, with citrus acidity, hints of cherry, and a bit of rose petal. Extremely easy to drink, it would complement shellfish, light pasta or rice dishes, grilled fish, or a goat cheese salad.

Maison Shaps 2018 Bourgogne Pinot Noir ($32)

This one is a bit of a twist as a local recommendation. Michael Shaps owns Michael Shaps Wineworks, which has a long history of producing award-winning wines in the Charlottesville area, but Shaps received his winemaking education in France, and owns a second winery in Burgundy. You can find the wines from Maison Shaps for sale in the local Wineworks tasting room. This bottle, like all red burgundy, is made from 100 percent pinot noir, which is a perfect light- to mid-weight red variety to pair with entrées.

The 2018 vintage is light and perfumed on the nose with notes of roses and cherries. The flavors combine red fruits such as cherry and cranberry with hints of baking spices and white pepper. An underlying earthiness provides an interesting counterpoint. Serve next to roasted poultry or pork, smoked sausages, roasted squash, or anything with mushrooms in it.

Barboursville Vineyards 2019
Cabernet Franc
Reserve ($25)

Depending on what is on the menu, a red wine that is fuller and bigger bodied might be needed. Cabernet franc as a variety has become one of the signatures and strengths of the local wine industry and can fill this role nicely. The Barboursville Reserve release is an excellent example of cabernet franc, and one that possesses the desired weight while managing to remain food-friendly. It is always well-scored by critics and, year in and year out, is a consistent winner at wine competitions. 

The 2019 release has pronounced aromas and flavors of red plums, baking spices, and red berries. The wine is full-bodied and complex, but still maintains an elegance that transitions into a well-structured finish. This is the option to choose for heavier food such as burgers, barbecue, steak, lamb, or pasta with tomato sauce.

One last word to the wise: When it comes time to buy, go directly to the winery. In addition to establishing a relationship (you might want more of your wedding wine later), and possibly getting a discount, it also gives the local winery the most profit per bottle. Shop (and drink) local!

Categories
Culture Food & Drink

Iced is hot

An iced local coffee, like this one from Grit, delivers a welcome chill on a hot day. Photo: Maeve Hayden.

With so many coffee roasters trying to deliver the perfect cup, central Virginia joe fans have lots to choose from. The advantages of buying from local roasters goes beyond allegiance to the companies and the love for all things local, though—the  direct benefit to the coffee drinker is a matter of taste.

Buying coffee locally means access to the freshest beans, carefully crafted to bring the best flavors to your cup and your palate. In addition, smaller local roasters can offer unique lots of beans, something that is not always possible or economical for large commercial roasters. Small lots often mean higher quality, plus the opportunity to source a wider variety of beans with different processing methods, from different geographical origins.

Most coffee drinkers start the day with a hot cup or two, but iced coffee sales jump in warmer weather. Neither special equipment nor special coffee beans are required for iced coffee. Any method of brewing can be used prior to adding ice, but not everyone likes the same bean from their morning routine when that coffee is put on ice. The process of adding ice to coffee brings out a different expression of flavors that may be better, worse, or just different.  

It’s obvious that ice can dilute the coffee, but this can also be beneficial, as it allows subtler flavors to be revealed. However, for many, dilution is not a welcome result, and so coffee that’s intended to go over ice is often brewed in a higher concentration. Yet, even when an adjustment of concentration is made, colder drinking temperature changes the presentation of volatile aroma and flavor to the nose and mouth, often muting the stronger roasted and bitter components of coffee, and resulting in more apparent notes of fruit and acid.

In the end, the beans used for an iced coffee versus a hot cup of coffee are largely a matter of personal preference, and some trial and error may be needed. Here are a few recommendations for beans from local roasters that perform well both hot and iced: 

JBird Supply

Tanzania Twawela ($18/16oz)

JBird’s storefront is at Ix Park, and its coffee is also frequently available at area farmers’ markets. The Tanzania Twawela has bold notes of peanut butter and chocolate (yes, Reese’s peanut butter cup), along with floral notes like rose and lavender and bright citrus flavors reminiscent of lemon and grapefruit. On ice, the coffee reveals a bright acidity that is best described as juicy citrus fruit, while the darker notes fade a bit into the background—a great complement to a bit of milk and/or sugar.

Milli Coffee Roasters

“Nice with Ice” blend ($15/12oz)

Most of the recommendations here are single origin coffees, but this specific blend from Milli is a combination of Colombian and Rwandan beans that is intentionally formulated with iced coffee in mind. It is indeed “nice with ice” with toasted nut flavors serving as a base to lemon-lime fruit components. Although marketed for iced coffee, it functions well hot also, with prominent flavors of dark chocolate and additional fruit flavors such as apricots and white peaches rounding out the cup.

Grit Coffee

Colombia Las Brisas ($16/12oz)

Grit has several stores around town but also offers free local delivery directly to Charlottesville front doors twice a week. This single origin offering from Colombia yields a pleasant, medium-weight cup when warm, with flavors of toasted nuts partnering nicely with hints of peach and green lime. When iced, the coffee impresses with a rich, full body carrying a roasted peanut character, green grape flavors, and a bright citrus acidity.

Mudhouse Coffee Roasters

La Joya Washed Honduras ($21.25/12oz)

Just one example of the excellent small lot, single origin coffees offered by Mudhouse. Served hot, this coffee is medium bodied and clean on the palate with hints of sweet nougat, caramel, and red cherry acidity. On ice, juicy red berries and lime flavors take center stage and the darker flavors of cocoa and fig play more supporting roles.

Shenandoah Joe

El Salvador Los Cipreses ($17.95/16oz)

This single origin coffee has flavors of oranges, brown sugar, and nuts when brewed. It is full of flavor but still smooth and medium bodied, making it a perfect choice to ease into an early morning. On ice, there are light flavors of chocolate and toasted nuts followed by an emerging lemon-lime tartness, slightly reminiscent of SweeTARTS candy.

Categories
Culture Food & Drink

Best pressed

Albemarle CiderWorks 2019 Hewes Crab is one of the gold medal winners in this year’s Governor’s Cup competition. File photo.

Beginning in 2021, the annual Virginia Governor’s Cup competition, which traditionally recognizes the best wines in the state, included a separate category for cider. In 2022, the competition awarded 10 gold medals to ciders and Albemarle CiderWorks’ 2019 Hewes Crab won Best in Show. Opened by the Shelton family in 2009, Albemarle CiderWorks is Virginia’s oldest operating cidery. Production has expanded from three types of cider to the current count of 15 different varieties.

The growth of Albemarle CiderWorks parallels the renaissance of cider in Virginia, and its resurgence in the United States. Cider is considered one of the country’s original beverages, brought here from England by the first settlers and produced by several of the founding fathers. While consumption waned as beer and wine became popular, consumer interest has reignited in recent years, resulting in more cideries, more variety, and an increase in the volume of production.

In Virginia, cider falls under the same category as wine for tax purposes, and some of these tax dollars are controlled by the Virginia Wine Board, which uses the money for marketing, research, and other initiatives. As the cider market has grown, Virginia has ramped up promotion of the beverage. These efforts extend to the inclusion of cider in the Governor’s Cup, increased marketing, and the recent expansion of the state-funded Winemakers Research Exchange (see page 16) to include cider in its research and education efforts.

With cider’s inclusion in the Governor’s Cup, the VWB recognized the wine/cider apples and oranges (well, grapes) situation by forming a separate category for cider, and assuring that the cider judges are distinct from the wine judges. This year’s judges panel featured cider enthusiasts, cider makers, cidery owners, and even a certified pommelier. Similar to the better-known sommelier designation for wine, the establishment in 2019 of the pommelier designation is more evidence of cider’s growing importance in the United States.

While a historic beverage rooted in history, cider is still new to many and presents an opportunity to taste, explore, and keep drinking local.

How ‘bout them apples?

The process of tasting cider is similar to tasting wine, but the underlying flavors vary between the source fruit of apples and grapes. Like wine, specific training exists for those who taste cider professionally. These tips let you be the judge. 

Glassware: Although you may not drink cider from wine glasses normally, using a wine glass helps distinguish flavors because of its wide bowl and ability to concentrate aromas for evaluation. A larger, thinner bowl will help you swirl cider to bring out subtle aromas. 

Temperature: Most people drink cider chilled at colder temperatures, but tasting at slightly warmer temperatures, 55 degrees is suggested, helps bring out flavors and textural components.  

Comfort: Take your time. Taste in a well-lit, odor-free environment. Stay hydrated as you taste.

Taste in order: Taste dryer, lighter ciders first and then move on to sweeter, heavier ciders. 

Appearance: Look closely at color and clarity. Do you see bubbles? Is the cider watery and thin or full-bodied and syrupy?

Smell: Put your nose in the glass and evaluate the aroma. Can you smell anything, or is the impression intense and pungent? Does it smell like apples, pears, other fruits, flowers, herbs, vanilla, honey, spice? Is it musty?

Taste: Allow the cider to touch all parts of your tongue. Do the flavors match the aromas that you identified? Is the cider sweet, acidic, bitter? If there is sweetness or acidity, is it in balance, or does the cider seem flat or sour?

Mouthfeel: Is it light, like water, or does it feel heavier, like syrup? Does it dry out your mouth or is it creamy?

Length and finish: How do the flavors change and finish? How long does it last?

Overall impression: What is your final evaluation of the cider? Is it pleasant? Is it complex? Is it balanced?

Pairing: Try pairing your favorites with food and see how your impressions change.

Categories
Culture Food & Drink

Thoughtful pairings

Learn about wine in new ways with Oenoverse host Reggie Leonard. Photo: Eze Amos

When it comes to wine, it can be easy to focus on education and use facts, legality, and tradition in your approach. What does a particular grape variety taste like, or what should it taste like? What laws govern wine of a certain style or from a certain place? What defines “quality” in a wine? How do I know if a wine is good? It is important, though, not to lose sight of another aspect of wine: a creative expression of personal taste. Wine can occupy a magical space, facilitating the exchange of ideas, bringing people together in fellowship around the table, and, in doing so, binding people together in community. 

Oenoverse (“oeno” is Latin for wine) is a new wine club concept from Blenheim Vineyards that was designed to pair community and discussion. Every two months, members receive wines chosen by a rotating wine enthusiast or wine professional, appointed for their knowledge and their ongoing support of Blenheim Vineyards—and that’s just the beginning.

Tracey Love, the director of marketing and events at Blenheim, says that Oenoverse is different from traditional clubs because it aims to be “experiential.”

With every membership, entry for two people is included for an in-person tasting event led by the person who selected the wines. “Our intention is ensuring that Blenheim is an inclusive space where everyone is welcome to enjoy, share, and learn about wine,” she says. “The goal is to share a platform that invites the community together with the focus of wine and conversation.”

Reggie Leonard, who has hosted similar events, will serve as master of ceremonies at each tasting. With Oenoverse, Leonard, the associate director for career connections and community engagement at UVA’s School of Data Science, combines an expertise in community engagement with his burgeoning passion for wine. He describes the new club as “inclusive by design” and a “collective experience,” rather than the traditional club member pick-up, where you get your wine and retreat to your respective corner or friend group. “You’ll definitely make new friends and have new reference points for wine after attending a club event,” he says. 

PK Ross, well-known for Splendora’s Gelato and Not Your Sweetie Chocolates, led the discussion at the club’s kickoff event in April. Ross sees the opportunity to change stereotypes and to empower people who may view themselves as outside the traditional wine community. “I like that I could be wildly wrong about these [wine and food] pairings, and that Oenoverse makes space for conversations to start… I think casual wine drinkers could learn to take more chances in the wine aisle if they had a safety net of ‘you have your own neural pathways. You can talk about wine however you want.’”

Love explains that space is the limiting factor as things get started. “We are hoping that the Oenoverse stays a manageable size because we’d prefer the in-person tasting events to stay intimate, but will adapt depending on whatever happens,” she says. “We can expand to the tent or offer a virtual option if we need to. The more the merrier!”

At the same time, when your founding principles are community, inclusivity, and diversity, growth seems almost inevitable. Leonard is careful with his words. “So far, it’s a Blenheim thing,” he says. “The idea…is transcendent enough to expand to more regional wineries, and it even has the legs to be a far-reaching club with chapters. Hopefully, in seeing conversations led by members and leaders of various communities, more of our community can see themselves being a part of the Oenoverse.”

As Love frames it: “We all have work to do pushing the wine industry to be more inclusive and diverse. This is one small step towards growing our wine community.” More information about the Oenoverse wine club can be found at blenheimvineyards.com/oenoverse.

Gather, drink, and think 

These special guests lead the upcoming Blenheim Vineyards’ Oenoverse club conversations.

May/June: Titus Green, sommelier, wine judge, wine rap, wine tasting events

July/August: Tasha Durrett, wine lover and founder of Black Women Who Wine 

September/October: Matt Harmon, winemaker and CEO of Harmony Wine

November/December: Jason Becton, wine professional and owner of Mariebette and Petite Mariebette

Categories
Culture Food & Drink

Brewing perfection

As the owner and toji at North American Sake Brewery, Andrew Centofante aims to make sake that competes with the best in Japan. Photo: John Robinson

Sake is believed to have originated in Japan approximately 2,000 years ago. As with many alcoholic beverages, it was refined as part of religious ceremonies, and commercial brewing of the rice-based beverage began in the 14th century. Although recent advances have allowed for automation and large-volume production, high-quality sake is still mostly made by hand, using techniques passed down from toji (master brewers) to apprentices through the centuries.

In the United States, sake is still largely ignored or misunderstood. For many, its mention causes flashbacks to the ’70s and ’80s, when poor-quality sake was served warm (to hide flaws) at hibachi-grill restaurants like Benihana. For a country that loves craft anything, Americans have yet to fully realize that high-quality sake is perhaps the most craft of craft beverages. 

For Andrew Centofante, owner and toji at North American Sake Brewery, it took a trip to Japan and a chance meeting with an English-speaking bartender who loved sake, to realize this oversight. An avid homebrewer and self-described lover of “all kinds of craft beer, wine, cider, and spirits,” Centofante was immediately impressed by the delicious and nuanced flavors of sake. Upon returning, he sought out more sake but quickly became fixated on brewing his own at home. 

“The more I learned, the more I fell in love with the process…before long I had transformed my basement into a small-scale sake brewery,” Centofante says. “And then my wife was like, ‘What are you doing?!’” 

For many, a hobby that disturbs family harmony might have stopped right there. For Centofante, it led to a trip back to Japan, an apprenticeship under a sixth-generation sake brewer, and then, three years ago, the opening of his own sake brewery at IX Art Park. From the outset, NAS has produced sake using a traditional, hands-on, and time-consuming process that honors historical roots. At the same time, NAS is trying to appeal to an American market. 

While he easily admits the process is one of constant learning, Centofante is adamant that the goal is to produce sake that is competitive with, or even better than, other sakes—including those from Japan. He also sees an opportunity to create more sake drinkers by making it more accessible and increasing consumer knowledge. Therefore, NAS intentionally has a less formal atmosphere that allows consumers to relax and have fun while they learn more about the nuances of technique and flavor that are a big part of sake. 

After the brewery opened, Centofante quickly realized that serving food would be an integral part of the experience. He admits, “Food was not always part of the plan, but we also knew that we needed people to taste it in order for them to get it.” The NAS kitchen now serves a Japanese menu with ramen, rice bowls, sushi, and dumplings.

To produce high-quality sake in the United States, especially brews that can rival those coming out of Japan, is no small task. Not only is NAS itself relatively young, but the entire industry outside of Japan is in its infancy. So, Centofante founded the Sake Brewers Association of North America, a nonprofit for which he serves as chairman of the board. The organization is dedicated to bringing the brewing community together, including forging relationships with both the Japanese and United States governments. “A rising tide lifts all ships and I believe that if you enjoy great sake brewed in Cincinnati or Arizona, then you will come here to NAS or pick up bottles of Japanese sake when you see it,” Centofante says.

Seemingly content in this place of tension between honoring ancient tradition while also looking forward to a modern future, Centofante says, “Sake, even though it is ancient, is an incredibly modern drink with so much technical precision, artistry, and innovation happening in Japan and abroad. We are lucky to be part of something so special.”

Style bar

North American Sake Brewery intentionally brews a lineup that showcases different styles of sake. Here are a few of note:

Real Magic: Junmai (brewed only with rice with no addition of alcohol beyond what is produced by fermentation). Not heavily milled, the retention of 70 percent of the rice grain yields flavors of pear and apple accompanying a round mouthfeel and long savory finish.

Big Baby: Unfiltered and cloudy with flavors of melon and banana. NAS uses calrose rice, a sushi
rice grown in the United States,
and this gives the drinker a real sense of how that rice tastes.

Serenity Now!: Junmai, but also daiginjo (the rice has been polished down to less than 50 percent of its original size), which results in a sake lighter in body, more aromatic, and full of fruit flavors.

Categories
Culture Food & Drink

A drink refresher

The hyper-local Forage Amaro from Spirit Lab Distilling is unique and sells out quickly. Supplied photo

Do you find yourself stuck in a loop at cocktail hour? When it’s five o’clock somewhere and Miller time has arrived, many people reach for the same beverages again and again. Lucky for us central Virginians, it’s easy to find exciting, locally made products to vary our drink of choice. 

Here are a few that fly under the radar, but are worth adding to your cocktail routine.

Bitters

Think of bitters as a spice or a condiment for drinks, much in the same way salt or pepper are used in food. Bitters are simply a base of neutral alcohol infused with botanicals, and as the name implies, some of these usually impart bitter flavor. Originally marketed as medicinal, then finding popularity as digestifs, bitters today are usually used to bring interest and depth to cocktails. 

There are two small-batch producers of note close to Charlottesville: Blackwater Bitters based in Lynchburg, and Artemisia Farm and Vineyard outside of Marshall. Both feature online ordering as well as recipes on their websites. 

Vermouth

Vermouth is broadly defined as aromatized, fortified wine. Aromatized is the addition of botanicals and fortified is the addition of a spirit to increase the alcohol content. It can be sweet or dry. Historically, vermouth was sold as medicine, but today it is commonly served as an aperitif or part of a cocktail.

There are several local, high-quality vermouths worth seeking out. Flying Fox produces one each quarter with botanicals that match the season. The Wool Factory features a private label vermouth in its cocktail program, and offers bottles for sale through the wine shop. And Rosemont, in nearby La Crosse, partners with Capitoline Vermouth in Washington, D.C., to produce a beautiful sweet version.

Amaro

Amaro comes from Italian origins and is a liqueur that has been infused with a complex recipe of herbs and spices. There are thousands of versions of amaro, and the recipes are often closely guarded. Most amaro has at least some bitter component to it, but it can also be quite sweet. Historically served neat as a digestif, amaro has become popular in cocktail recipes.

Don Ciccio & Figli is a family business founded in Italy that was revived in Washington, D.C., by Francesco Amodeo, who has been recognized for preserving his family’s traditional recipes and techniques. Experiencing great growth since its 2012 inception, the company now produces 15 different bottlings.

Closer to home, Spirit Lab Distilling produces Forage Amaro each year with pawpaw, maypop, and hardy oranges that are foraged from the Charlottesville area. Hyper-local and made only in very small batches, this is a true reflection of the season and the local terroir.

In the mix

Blackwater Bitters began with two friends making Christmas gifts. Now, it’s a woman-owned business in Lynchburg. Look for traditional flavors such as orange, but don’t miss the mocha bitters. Cacao and locally roasted coffee beans impart bitterness, along with orange peel, chicory, cinnamon, and sweet molasses. blackwaterbitters.com

Artemisia Farm and Vineyard is farmed by Andrew Napier and Kelly Allen. Their love of cocktails and interest in botanical wines has led to five original recipes utilizing native plants. Artemisia’s Incendia combines a brightly acidic cherry component with underlying flavors of smoke and black tea. artemisia.farm

Flying Fox Vineyard and Winery produces four versions of vermouth each year to match the seasons. The Winter is popular thanks to its deep and complex flavors, but it makes sense to pair these year-round with the changing seasons. flyingfoxvineyard.com

The Wool Factory currently features Bitte as part of its bar program. This is a bitter, dry, white vermouth that was designed specifically for use in cocktail recipes, but also makes an excellent digestif when paired with soda water or ginger ale. It’s available for sale at The Wool Factory’s on-site wine shop. thewoolfactory.com

Rosemont partners with Capitoline Vermouth of Washington, D.C., to produce a deliciously sweet vermouth featuring flavors of orange and citrus peel along with local herbs and other aromatics. This is vermouth that can be consumed on its own, but also brings brightness and sweetness to a favorite cocktail recipe. rosemontofvirginia.com

Don Ciccio & Figli makes a wide range of products from traditional Italian family recipes. You’ll have to find your own favorite, but the Amaro delle Sirene recipe dates back to 1931, and sources more than 30 roots and herbs. Complex flavors of licorice, eucalyptus, stewed fruits, and chamomile stand out in this great example of what traditional amaro is. donciccioefigli.com

Spirit Lab Distilling makes Forage Amaro once a year from fruit and flowers found in the Charlottesville area. The use of maypop lends the flavor of passion fruit to this unique product, which sells out almost as soon as it is released—so get on the mailing list if you are interested in the next batch. spiritlabdistilling.com

Categories
Culture Food & Drink

Shiny and new

Add some winter sparkle to your glass with these local white wines. Photo: Unsplash.com user Matthieu Joannon

The change of season may inspire you toward big, bold reds, but there are many white wines worthy of attention during the colder months. These options include sparkling wines, wines made from grape varieties that produce heavier styles, white wines with more textural complexity, and sweet and luscious dessert wines. The Virginia Wine Board marketing office is working with area wine shops to turn the spotlight on local winter whites, and here are some recommendations to pique your interest.

Though it often takes center stage as an accompaniment to holiday parties and New Year’s celebrations, sparkling wine should be served year-round, as it brings a sense of celebration to any occasion, is easy to drink on its own, and pairs with almost any food. More Virginia wineries are producing sparkling wines, but Thibaut-Janisson continues to be the standard-bearer for high-quality sparkling wine made in the traditional method (the same winemaking technique used for champagne). Trump Winery deserves mention for producing excellent sparkling wines for many years. Its 2014 Sparkling Reserve, one of the 12 wines selected for the 2021 Governor’s Case, is an example of the quality that winemaker Jonathan Wheeler produces.

White wines can show more weight because of the grape variety, certain winemaking techniques, or a combination of both. Viognier fits this niche nicely, with full-bodied wines with textural complexity and full fruit flavors reminiscent of apricot, peaches, and other stone fruits. Veritas Vineyard and Winery produces an excellent example that is round and full on the palate with a long, opulent finish. Similarly, petit manseng expresses flavors of tropical fruits combined with a full body that comes at least partially from slightly higher alcohol levels. Michael Shaps Wineworks is recognized for making petit manseng in a dry, structured style (something becoming more and more popular in Virginia).

By producing white wines in contact with their skins, a technique usually reserved for reds, winemakers can transform the character into something more complex and more highly textured. These wines, referred to as orange or amber, are not for everyone but are often intriguing, delicious, and great options to pair with food. Rkatsiteli is an ancient white grape that historically has been made with skin contact, and Stinson Vineyards produces a version here in Virginia known as Wildkat. Perfect for those looking for a lesser-known variety or something a little different to try.

Lastly, dessert wines are often overlooked but can be just right for winter. These full-bodied, full-flavored, luscious wines are perfect for sitting by a fire, paired with dessert, or served on their own as dessert in a glass. Two great options are the Barboursville Vineyards Paxxito, winner of the 2021 Governor’s Cup, and the Keswick Vineyards Nektar. The Keswick wine is produced from 100 percent petit manseng grapes, mimicking one of the traditional expressions of the varietal in southern France, from where it originates.

Add some winter sparkle to your glass

Thibaut-Janisson Extra Brut NV ($36)

Thibaut-Janisson offers four wines, but the extra brut is the most serious and complex. It’s made with 100 percent chardonnay grapes from the first pressing (considered to be the best quality juice) with a higher proportion of older reserve wine added to increase complexity. Share this with your loved ones and closest friends.

Trump Winery 2015 Blanc de Noir ($55)

The 2014 sparkling reserve was included in the 2021 Virginia Governor’s Cup case and is now sold out. This alternative recently won America’s Best Sparkling Wine at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. Flavors of citrus, green apple, and Asian pear combine with hints of chestnuts and brioche.

Veritas Vineyards and Winery 2020 Viognier ($27)

Flavors of apricots, peaches, and other stone fruits combine with a rich, broad texture to bring weight to this wine that has a refreshing acidity that lifts the finish.

Michael Shaps Wineworks 2017 Petit Manseng ($35)

Tropical fruit flavors such as pineapple and mango predominate this dry wine, the heaviest white wine the winery produces, which presents with a full mouthfeel while maintaining high acidity. Barrel fermentation and aging in oak bring more texture and weight to an already structured wine.

Stinson Vineyards 2019 Wildkat ($29)

Skin contact results in a darker amber color, increased texture on the palate (from tannins), and flavors of oranges, almonds, and bruised apples. Serve warmer than most white wines and pair with heavier foods.

Barboursville Vineyards 2017 Paxxito ($35/375ml bottle)

Made in the traditional Italian method of drying grapes (appassimento) and concentrating sugar, acidity, and flavor. Sweet with honeyed fruits, pears, and almonds followed by a long, full finish.

Keswick Vineyards 2019 Nektar ($45/375ml bottle)

A floral nose accompanies flavors of honey, apricot, and mango, which give this wine a long, sweet, acidic finish.

Categories
Knife & Fork Magazines

Varietal show

Photo: Anna Kariel

There is much to look forward to as the Virginia wine industry matures, and as more and more high-quality wines are produced. Varieties such as cabernet franc and petit manseng are becoming recognized as grapes that flourish in the region. But a growing industry also gives space for smaller producers, new grape varieties, and creative winemaking techniques that result in interesting bottles that may give a glimpse of things to come. Here are five you shouldn’t miss.

Photo: Anna Kariel

2020 Strange Hybrid Moments from Lightwell Survey ($25)

How it tastes: Red fruits and perfumed roses on the nose. The palate carries this forward with strawberries, roses, and a hint of white pepper and tar on the finish. A touch darker and more flavorful than most rosés with persistent acidity on the finish.

Pair it with: Blackened fish, fried chicken, sushi

Notes: A blend of vidal blanc, chambourcin, blaufränkisch, petit manseng, and traminette. Winemaker Ben Jordan is focused on the potential of hybrid grapes (vidal blanc, chambourcin, and traminette) as part of the future of Virginia wine and showcases them here in this singular blend.

2019 Fiano Reserve from Barboursville Vineyards ($25)

How it tastes: Very floral nose leading to flavors of grapefruit, apricot, and pear. Balanced with lingering acidity and a hint of white peaches on the finish.

Pair it with: Grilled seafood, pasta with cream sauce, goat cheese

Notes: Barboursville first released its Fiano in 2015, and was the first winery on the East Coast to produce wine from this ancient variety originating in central Italy. The 2019 vintage was an excellent one in Virginia and this bottle is perhaps the best Fiano from Barboursville to date.

Photo: Anna Kariel

Amélie Sparkling Rosé (non-vintage) from Keswick Vineyards ($25)

How it tastes: A darker rosé-style sparkling wine. Red and black cherry flavors dominate with lingering tartness on the finish. 

Pair it with: Stir-fry mushrooms, pork tenderloin, roasted duck

Notes: Made from norton, the only wine grape native to America. Although Missouri claims it as its state grape, Virginia had the first plantings of this variety. Like many, Keswick winemaker Stephen Barnard freely admits that he does not like the flavors of norton as a red wine, but he crafts an enjoyable rosé sparkling from the variety.

Photo: Anna Kariel

2020 Cabernet Franc from Vino dal Bosco ($25)

How it tastes: Fresh, bright flavors of red berries along with plum, green herbs, and a hint of licorice. A medium-bodied wine that would benefit from a slight chill and evokes a walk in the forest during autumn.

Pair it with: Braised pork stew, black beans and rice, roasted quail, burgers off the grill

Notes: A product of Gabrielle Rausse Winery, where sons Peter and Tim are largely responsible for the winemaking. The Vino dal Bosco label highlights wines with no added sulfites. The cabernet franc was aged half in stainless steel and half in clay amphora.

2018 Sly Fox Cabernet Franc from Flying Fox Vineyards ($40)

How it tastes: Aging in used bourbon barrels yields a combination of red fruits and spiciness with vanilla, coffee, biscuit, and smoke. The palate is rich and full of flavor with slight sweetness.

Pair it with: Barbecued ribs, steak, smoked vegetables, your favorite cigar

Notes: Sly Fox is the experimental label of Flying Fox Vineyards and gives the winery permission to play with some non-standard techniques. Winemaker Emily Pelton takes the opportunity here to do something that is perhaps a bit controversial, but unique and creative—and full of flavor.

Categories
Culture Food & Drink

Core focus

Cider apples can taste sour from high acidity or bitter from high tannin content. Stock photo

It’s well known that our founding fathers brewed beer, distilled whiskey, and, in the case of Thomas Jefferson, worked diligently to make wine in Virginia. But cider, too has been in production since the Colonial era—both Washington and Jefferson also grew apples and brewed cider. The industrial revolution saw a decline in the cider industry, but these days the beverage is experiencing a resurgence in the state.

Traditional cider comes from apples specifically selected for cider making, because they are not necessarily “good eating.” Cider apples can taste sour from high acidity or bitter from high tannin content. Just like in winemaking, these components provide structure, mouthfeel, texture, and complexity of flavor, and make cider a beautiful pairing with food.

Patrick Collins of Patois Cider explains that “cider isn’t monolithic,” and therefore there’s “lots of versatility with potential pairings based on varietal, terroir, cellar techniques,” and so on. He says that many ciders are “delicate and nuanced” and may get lost with heavy sauces. He suggests pairing them with “strong singular flavors like soft-ripened cheese.”

One example is Arkansas Black from Albemarle CiderWorks. It has delicate flavors of green apples and melons, refreshing acidity, and a bit of tannic structure that brings a slight minerality. In addition to pairing well with a soft triple-cream cheese, it works well with oysters, shellfish, or truffled pasta and dishes with a lighter white sauce.

Potter’s Craft Cider’s Pelure goes in a very different direction, intentionally keeping juice in contact with the skins for an extended period of time and aging in oak for 10 months, much like a red wine. The resulting tannic structure is balanced by acidity and a light bubbly effervescence that lifts what otherwise might be a very heavy and structured cider. This cider is not for everyone, it can accurately be described as “funky” or “meaty,” and it can be paired with heavier food. Try it with roast chicken, salami, sausages on the grill, or venison stew.

Patois Cider’s Bricolage is a sparkling cider made in the traditional method (the same method as Champagne) and produced entirely from foraged fruit. The bubbles and fruit aromas might give the initial impression of a light and whimsical cider, but you’ll find complex and deep flavors that bring to mind flowers, dried apricot, tart plums, and wet stone. It begs to be paired with food and is versatile enough to drink through your whole meal. A classic cider pairing with roast pork works exceedingly well, but also try it with fried chicken, roasted whole fish, and smoked mushroom tacos.

Categories
Culture Food & Drink

Drink in color

Stinson Vineyards’ Tannat has an earthy, complex flavor—perfect for fall. Photo: Staff photo

As summer disappears and temperatures begin to drop, wine drinkers look for more weight, more depth, and more complexity in their glass. This is, in part, to temper the chill in the air, but it also means wines that will better pair with the food of the season. Autumn leads to more roasting, smoking, stews, and heavier desserts. It also means more cooking over coals, hanging out on the deck, and time spent around open fire. 

Almost all red wines fit naturally into the seasonal shift. If you stick strictly to white wines, the lean, crisp whites and rosés that were a mainstay of the beach and poolside won’t feel as substantial as wines with more weight and texture. Look to flavors that tend toward stone fruits and tropical fruits, as opposed to just citrus notes.

Here are some new locally produced wines suited to your autumn tailgate, barbecue, or firepit.

The 2020 Keswick Vineyards Rives White is a blend of pinot gris and chardonnay that has lighter citrus fruit notes combined with deeper flavors of white peaches and apricots. The fruit is complemented nicely by hints of vanilla. A medium weight on the palate yields easily to a crisp, acidic finish, and it would be a perfect pairing with roasted chicken or a root vegetable gratin.

The 2019 Gabriele Rausse Winery Roussanne is produced from 100 percent Virginia-grown roussanne grapes, an unusual variety for the state that is not widely known or planted. Rausse’s European roots are obvious here. After fermentation is complete, 75 percent of the wine is aged in French oak barrels and 25 percent is aged in Italian terracotta amphorae for one year. The resulting wine has an elegant floral nose that hints at orange blossoms, a palate that is broad and full, with flavors of tangerine and vanilla that are almost reminiscent of a baked pastry. It finishes without sweetness and just a hint of textural astringency. Try this with a pork roast, smoked turkey, or roasted sweet potatoes. 

When the temperatures are too high, even dedicated red wine drinkers have a hard time thinking about consuming big-bodied tannic wines. So, the transition into autumn is an exciting time because it’s a chance to bring out wines with more flavor and complexity. In Virginia, as in other parts of the world, varieties such as petit verdot and tannat are often utilized in blends with other red grapes to achieve deeply colored, structured, and boldly flavored wines. 

The 2017 Hark Vineyards Spark is a red blend of cabernet franc, merlot, and petit verdot that was aged in oak barrels for 20 months. Deeply garnet colored, the nose is full of sweet tobacco, black fruit, and vanilla. The taste follows the aromas, with black plum and blackberries combining with smoke, leather, and baking spices. While this has enough structure that it should age well, it also would pair well now with a steak, a smoked brisket, or a venison stew. 

In addition to being used in blends, petit verdot and tannat are also being made in Virginia as single varietal wines. The 2017 Stinson Vineyards Tannat is an outstanding example of this. While tannat is a grape that brings very prominent tannins, Stinson has produced a version that reveals a lifted and elegant fruit structure of cherry and plum on top of those tannins. Aged 27 months in oak, there are also flavors of smoke, tobacco, and earth that add complexity and weight. The combination of fruit with a smoky, earthy backbone makes this a great match for barbecue, smoked sausage, or a spicy black bean soup.

Wine as an option during, or even in place of, the dessert course is often overlooked. While some may tend toward harder spirits like bourbon or brandy around a fire, an interesting option might be the many dessert wines produced by adding brandy to wine. This is an old and traditional winemaking technique that stops fermentation to maintain sweetness, and at the same time fortifies the wine (increases alcohol) to give it body and concentration. 

The Afton Mountain Vineyards VDN (non-vintage) takes its name from the vin doux naturel style of winemaking that originated in southern France. Although these wines are sweet, the process of making them does not involve added sugar. Instead, brandy is added to grapes to stop fermentation, preventing the yeast from converting all the sugar from the grapes into alcohol and thus leaving residual sweetness in the wine. The Afton version comes in at 20 percent alcohol and is made from a blend of malbec and tannat grapes. It is full of deep plum and berry flavors combined with a pleasant sweetness. Try it paired with a blackberry cobbler, caramel-pecan pie, or anything chocolate.

Fall for these local bottlings

2020 Keswick Vineyards Rives White Blend

$27.95 for a 750ml bottle

keswickvineyards.com

2019 Gabriele Rausse Winery Roussanne

$26 for a 750ml bottle

gabrieleraussewinery.com

2017 Hark Vineyards Spark Red Blend

$42 for a 750ml bottle

harkvineyards.com

2017 Stinson Vineyards Tannat

$37.99 for a 750ml bottle

stinsonvineyards.com

Afton Mountain Vineyards VDN (non-vintage)

$32 for a 325ml bottle

aftonmountainvineyards.com