Tag: wine

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Culture Food & Drink

Best pressed

Albemarle CiderWorks 2019 Hewes Crab is one of the gold medal winners in this year’s Governor’s Cup competition. File photo.

Beginning in 2021, the annual Virginia Governor’s Cup competition, which traditionally recognizes the best wines in the state, included a separate category for cider. In 2022, the competition awarded 10 gold medals to ciders and Albemarle CiderWorks’ 2019 Hewes Crab won Best in Show. Opened by the Shelton family in 2009, Albemarle CiderWorks is Virginia’s oldest operating cidery. Production has expanded from three types of cider to the current count of 15 different varieties.

The growth of Albemarle CiderWorks parallels the renaissance of cider in Virginia, and its resurgence in the United States. Cider is considered one of the country’s original beverages, brought here from England by the first settlers and produced by several of the founding fathers. While consumption waned as beer and wine became popular, consumer interest has reignited in recent years, resulting in more cideries, more variety, and an increase in the volume of production.

In Virginia, cider falls under the same category as wine for tax purposes, and some of these tax dollars are controlled by the Virginia Wine Board, which uses the money for marketing, research, and other initiatives. As the cider market has grown, Virginia has ramped up promotion of the beverage. These efforts extend to the inclusion of cider in the Governor’s Cup, increased marketing, and the recent expansion of the state-funded Winemakers Research Exchange (see page 16) to include cider in its research and education efforts.

With cider’s inclusion in the Governor’s Cup, the VWB recognized the wine/cider apples and oranges (well, grapes) situation by forming a separate category for cider, and assuring that the cider judges are distinct from the wine judges. This year’s judges panel featured cider enthusiasts, cider makers, cidery owners, and even a certified pommelier. Similar to the better-known sommelier designation for wine, the establishment in 2019 of the pommelier designation is more evidence of cider’s growing importance in the United States.

While a historic beverage rooted in history, cider is still new to many and presents an opportunity to taste, explore, and keep drinking local.

How ‘bout them apples?

The process of tasting cider is similar to tasting wine, but the underlying flavors vary between the source fruit of apples and grapes. Like wine, specific training exists for those who taste cider professionally. These tips let you be the judge. 

Glassware: Although you may not drink cider from wine glasses normally, using a wine glass helps distinguish flavors because of its wide bowl and ability to concentrate aromas for evaluation. A larger, thinner bowl will help you swirl cider to bring out subtle aromas. 

Temperature: Most people drink cider chilled at colder temperatures, but tasting at slightly warmer temperatures, 55 degrees is suggested, helps bring out flavors and textural components.  

Comfort: Take your time. Taste in a well-lit, odor-free environment. Stay hydrated as you taste.

Taste in order: Taste dryer, lighter ciders first and then move on to sweeter, heavier ciders. 

Appearance: Look closely at color and clarity. Do you see bubbles? Is the cider watery and thin or full-bodied and syrupy?

Smell: Put your nose in the glass and evaluate the aroma. Can you smell anything, or is the impression intense and pungent? Does it smell like apples, pears, other fruits, flowers, herbs, vanilla, honey, spice? Is it musty?

Taste: Allow the cider to touch all parts of your tongue. Do the flavors match the aromas that you identified? Is the cider sweet, acidic, bitter? If there is sweetness or acidity, is it in balance, or does the cider seem flat or sour?

Mouthfeel: Is it light, like water, or does it feel heavier, like syrup? Does it dry out your mouth or is it creamy?

Length and finish: How do the flavors change and finish? How long does it last?

Overall impression: What is your final evaluation of the cider? Is it pleasant? Is it complex? Is it balanced?

Pairing: Try pairing your favorites with food and see how your impressions change.

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Culture

Drinking buddies

A great deal of mutual admiration shines through in locally produced beverage collaborations such as the Rosé Gose beer by Fine Creek Brewing and Blenheim Vineyards. Photo: Courtesy of Fine Creek Brewing

While most of us have been trying to keep our distance over the past year, there’s been lots of pairing up in the wine industry. Area winemakers have been pursuing both formal and informal collaborations as a natural expression of their intellectual curiosity and creative spirit. And as you can see from the sampling of collabs below, these projects also involve local breweries, cideries, and distilleries. 

Blenheim Vineyards and Fine Creek Brewing Company

blenheimvineyards.com
finecreekbrewing.com

In 2018, when Gabe Slagle was head brewer for Fine Creek Brewing Company in Powhatan, he visited Blenheim Vineyards and left some beer for winemaker Kirsty Harmon. This simple exchange led to the development of a professional friendship, as Harmon wrote back to say thank you and offered to provide grape skins if the brewery ever wanted to use them. When Slagle visited Blenheim again, he brought along Brian Mandeville, Fine Creek’s current head brewer, and the collaborations began in force.

Over the years, Blenheim has had the opportunity to do wine pop-ups at Fine Creek, and has served the beer at its winery during special weekend events. On the production side, Fine Creek has used several different varieties of grape pressings in its beer, including viognier and rkatsiteli. There have even been some rosé-style beers that utilized skins from red grapes. According to Harmon, Fine Creek has “really gotten creative with how they have been able to incorporate our grapes into their beers.” In addition, “they are just really great people,” and she is hopeful that the collaboration will continue.

Lightwell Survey and Troddenvale Cider

lightwellsurvey.com
troddenvale.com

Winemaker Ben Jordan is no stranger to co-fermentation, where different grape varieties are combined to ferment together into a final product. In a recently released collaboration between Lightwell Survey and Troddenvale Cider, which is run by Will and Cornelia Hodges and located in Warm Springs, the concept goes a step further when grapes and apples are fermented as a single mixture.

For the project, Lightwell contributed petit manseng and vidal blanc grapes and Troddenvale contributed Harrison and Golden Russet apples. (All the fruit was grown in the Shenandoah Valley.) The juice from this fruit was combined, with care taken to ensure that the resulting mix was exactly 50 percent wine and 50 percent cider. Then, each party took half of the mix, and the rest of the fermentation, aging, and bottling was done separately. While the producers share a low-intervention approach, and the resulting beverages have similarities, it is interesting to see how the same original juice can yield different results in the hands of a winemaker versus a cidermaker. The Lightwell version was fermented in stainless steel with a bit of sulfur dioxide added at bottling. The Troddenvale was fermented in neutral oak with no sulfur additions. Both are selling two-packs featuring the paired products.

When asked why they decided to do this, Jordan says, “These grape/apple fermentations are something we are both interested in, we are each a fan of what the other is doing, and honestly, we were looking to have fun.”

Joy Ting Wine and Spirit Lab Distilling

@joytingwine
spiritlabdistilling.com

A quick survey of the world’s wine regions reveals that winemaking is always accompanied by distillation of wine into brandy. It’s a natural partnership and, at least historically, it was always made from local grapes grown in the region. Inspired by world-famous brandies from the Cognac and Armagnac regions of France, winemaker Joy Ting (this writer’s wife) and master distiller Ivar Aass of Charlottesville’s Spirit Lab Distilling are collaborating to make a Virginia brandy that they call Esprit Joyeux.

Aass and Ting are both focused on the brandy as a true expression of Virginia. As Ting explains, “The grapes are grown in the Shenandoah Valley. They are specifically managed and picked with brandy production in mind. After fermentation into wine, distillation occurs at Spirit Lab. Finally, the brandy is aged in barrels made from wood that comes from a forest in Culpeper.”

Every one of the above-mentioned partners goes out of their way to express their love for each other’s products—and all of them speak highly of the production quality and skill level of their collaborators. More notably, there is frequent mention of the great ideas, character, and heart of the people behind the products. It’s clear that there are many rewards for these producers in pursuing these projects beyond the final product that is imbibed.

Ultimately, though, it’s area drink lovers who truly benefit from these collaborations. Creativity and curiosity are a wonderful driver of the industry, but finding partners who are simpatico can truly spur things forward. These cooperative projects, especially ones that cross the boundaries of the wine, beer, cider, and spirits categories, result in new ideas, new flavors, and even entirely new categories of beverages, making it an exciting time to drink locally.

Categories
Culture Living

A sweet win

With consistent production of excellent wine every year, Barboursville Vineyards is not only one of the historical pioneers of Virginia wine but an enduring shining star. Supplied photo

By Paul H. Ting

There’s something alluring and gratifying about continuing a best practice that originated in the ancient world, and the 2021 Virginia Governor’s Cup winner is a prime example.

On March 9, Governor Ralph Northam presented the award to Barboursville Vineyards for its 2015 Paxxito. The Cup is given to the top-scoring wine in the annual competition, which this year saw more than 100 wineries in the state submit a total of 544 wines for judging. Winemaker Luca Paschina accepted the award, flanked by Fernando Franco, viticulturist at the winery since 1998, and associate winemaker Daniele Tessaro.

The 2015 Paxxito is a sweet, dessert-style wine made with moscato ottonel and vidal blanc and a production technique called passito. Passito is perhaps best known because of vin santo, a style of wine that has been produced in Italy since at least the Renaissance era. Paschina calls it an “ancient method of winemaking” that “requires lots of labor,” including picking and sorting the individual grapes by hand.

In short, passito involves picking grapes relatively early to preserve their natural acidity and then laying them out on straw mats or perforated wooden trays for drying. Historically, this occurred by exposure to sunlight and wind, but Paschina admits that the often-unpredictable weather in Virginia has led the winemakers to actively circulate air for drying. Barboursville started using passito in 2001, and now has a Paxxito Barn where the process occurs. As water is removed, the shriveled grape gains concentration of flavor and sugar (sugar concentration can be as high as 47 percent by the end).

In addition to requiring intensive manual labor, the process also results in less wine produced. Paschina says that, despite this, “the reward is big,” as volume is exchanged for concentrated flavors and a dense mouthfeel. The resultant wine is sweet and unctuous, with intense aromatics and flavors of honey and dried fruits, such as peaches and apricots. On the finish, the acidity takes over, leaving an impression much like a sweet-tart candy.

Founded in 1976 by the Zonig family of Italy, Barboursville was the fifth winery started in the state of Virginia. In 1990, Paschina joined the winery from his home in the Piedmont wine region of Italy. Despite the fact that Paschina has been behind three previous Governor’s Cup winners, it’s obvious from his emotional words that this award still brings him great pride.

For the local wine industry, the Cup is widely considered the most prestigious annual competition. Now in its 39th year, the competition’s rules require, among other things, that wines entered be produced with 100 percent Virginia fruit. Wines are subject to a strict blind-tasting process with a panel of well-qualified judges, and those wines that score 90 points or higher are awarded gold medals, of which there were 96 this year.

The top 12 wines make up the Governor’s Cup Case, and the top wine is then awarded the Cup. According to Paschina, the Virginia Governor’s Cup is “one of the most stringent competitions in the United States.” This year, Barboursville was also recognized with two other wines in the final case (2016 Octagon red blend and 2019 Vermentino Reserve), and received three additional gold medals (2019 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, 2017 Paxxito, and 2017 Octagon), for a total of six.

An examination of the complete list of gold medals and the composition of the final case reveals a local wine industry that is growing, exploring, and continuing to mature. A wide range of wineries is represented from all geographic areas of the state, with both well established and familiar names, but also wineries that have only recently launched. In addition, an increasing diversity of grape varieties is seen, both red and white, including ones that are not traditionally associated with Virginia such as vermentino, nebbiolo, moscato, and tannat.

Six gold medals, three wines in the Case, and a fifth Governor’s Cup. For Barboursville Vineyards, these results reinforce its standing as one of the pillars of the Virginia wine industry.

2021 Virginia Governor’s Cup Case
2015 Barboursville Vineyards Paxxito
($35, winemaker Luca Paschina)
2016 Barboursville Vineyards Octagon
($55, winemaker Luca Paschina)
2019 Barboursville Vineyards Vermentino Reserve
($23, winemaker Luca Paschina)
2019 Bluestone Vineyard Petit Manseng
($24.50, winemaker Lee Harman)
2016 Breaux Vineyards Meritage
($45, winemaker Josh Gerard)
2016 Breaux Vineyards Nebbiolo
($62, winemaker Josh Gerard)
2019 Carriage House Wineworks Petit Verdot
($31, winemaker Michael Fritze)
2017 R.A.H. Wine Company Series 1
($35 for 375ml bottle, winemaker Maya Hood White)
2017 King Family Vineyards Mountain Plains
($70, winemaker Matthieu Finot)
2015 Michael Shaps Wineworks Meritage
($50, winemaker Michael Shaps)
2014 Trump Winery Brut Reserve
($80, winemaker Jonathan Wheeler)
2017 Veritas Winery Petit Verdot
($45, winemaker Emily Pelton)

The Governor’s Cup Case is used by the Virginia Wine Board Marketing Office to promote Virginia wine. VWBMO recently announced the creation of the Virginia Governor’s Cup Gold Medal Trail, which includes all 47 wineries, cideries, and meaderies that received a gold medal. More information can be found at taste.virginiawine.org.

Categories
Culture

High time: The start of something new for Virginia winemaking

The high altitude plantings at 12 Ridges Vineyard put the new winery in an excellent position for crafting what could be Virginia’s best sparkling wine. Courtesy 12 Ridges Vineyard

At the end of May, as Virginia businesses moved into Phase One of reopening, 12 Ridges Vineyard started welcoming visitors back to its tasting room, which overlooks, wait for it…12 acres of vineyards. Like many wineries, 12 Ridges, formerly Skylark Farm and, until now, best known as a Christmas tree farm, features incredible views, outdoor seating, and availability for weddings and events. What gives this new winery distinction is that the vines are planted at approximately 3,300 feet, making it the highest altitude vineyard site in the state of Virginia.

At higher altitudes, cooler temperatures allow grapes to express themselves differently, with generally less sugar and more acid, producing wines lower in alcohol and brighter and livelier in taste. And there are other benefits to high altitude winemaking (like more direct and concentrated sunlight, larger differences between daytime and nighttime temperatures, and slopes allowing cool air and water to drain), but there are also challenges. Some sites are on the edge of being too cold for vines to grow. And steep slopes can make farming difficult, requiring manual labor and increasing costs.

Still, it may be worth the risk. Joy Ting (this writer’s wife), research enologist and coordinator of the Winemakers Research Exchange, explains, “Virginia is a big state and we are still a wine region that is exploring as we evolve and mature. Are we planting in the right places? Are we ignoring areas that don’t fit preconceived notions and missing out on quality wine?”

Jake Busching, who has grown grapes in Virginia for over 20 years, was responsible for planting 12 Ridges. He’s also the consultant at Stone Mountain Vineyards, where he was hired to replant its vineyards in 2017. Stone Mountain sits at an elevation of 1,750 feet and was initially planted in the mid-1990s with French varieties, the fashion at the time. Some of these did well, but others struggled in the cooler climate. So Busching worked with Stone Mountain owners Jim and Deanna Gephart to put in pinot noir and pinot gris, varieties known to thrive in cooler conditions.

Busching says, “I’ve been steadfast about not putting red grapes (cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot) above that. But at that elevation, as Ankida Ridge has proven, you can do pinot noir…and chardonnay is beautiful.”

Also at 1,750 feet, Ankida Ridge has earned a reputation for perhaps the best pinot noir in Virginia. Owners Christine and Dennis Vrooman, who first planted in 2008, recognized their site would be well-suited to pinot noir and chardonnay. 12 Ridges owner Craig Colberg draws inspiration from them, “I’ve tasted pinot noir from Ankida. It’s excellent. I aspire to pinot like theirs.”

For 12 Ridges, Busching worked with Colberg to develop a vision of what would be possible at his extremely high site. Busching focused on cold-hardy varieties like chardonnay, pinot gris, riesling, and pinot noir, and he says he planted intentionally for sparkling wine. Most agree sparkling wine has great potential for Virginia, and Busching sees it as a unique opportunity for 12 Ridges. “Sparkling wine could be a game changer because it’s a largely untapped market with high consumer demand,” he says. “12 Ridges has the potential to be the best sparkling wine in Virginia.”

Among those on Colberg’s team are winemaker Ben Jordan, whose labels include Early Mountain Vineyards, Lightwell Survey, and his family’s Midland Construction. In addition, Tim Jordan, who grows grapes on the Jordan family farm, will be the vineyard manager going forward. Jordan says he embraces the challenge of learning about growing at 12 Ridges. “What remains to be seen is whether they are too high and too exposed to winter cold…What ripens and when it ripens will be fun to find out.”

Busching similarly notes the unique challenge of the site, requiring cold-weather vineyard management in winter but hot-weather management in summer. For example, soil is mounded up around the vines in winter to protect them, a process that is reversed in summer, when rainfall and humidity require disease prevention and, despite the shorter growing season, there is still vigorous growth from the fertile soil that requires careful pruning.

Colberg seems well-informed about both the risks and rewards. “It’s my goal to become the premier cool climate vineyard in the state,” he says. I think there is a demand for something that is still high-quality, but a different experience on the palate.”

Meanwhile, Christine Vrooman at Ankida Ridge is advocating for a new American Viticultural Area to recognize higher altitude vineyards in Virginia. If she succeeds, this would be the first new AVA approved in Virginia since 2012. Vrooman is modeling her plan after the Mendocino Ridge AVA in California, which has boundaries defined by elevation. It includes only vineyards higher than 1,200 feet and therefore currently holds the distinction as the only non-contiguous AVA. The AVA Vrooman is proposing would be the second.

As the Virginia wine industry matures, there are risks and unknowns, but there is also vision for the future and a desire for the new and unique. Here’s hoping that the combination of high altitudes, better winegrowing techniques, and a willingness to take risks results in another exciting chapter for Virginia wine.

Categories
Culture

Order up! A guide to restaurant, food truck, and winery takeout

Here is our list of local establishments that are open and waiting to take your call-in order. (Keep in mind that some information is subject to change, and descriptions may not apply, due to current circumstances.) Email living@c-ville.com to add your restaurant to the list.

Asian Cuisine

Afghan Kabob Palace Authentic Afghan cuisine. 400 Emmet St. N. 245-0095. $$. ORDER
Asian Express Chinese and Japanese with healthy options. 909 W. Main St. 979-1888. $. ORDER
Bamboo House Korean and Chinese options. 4831 Seminole Trail. 973-9211. $$.
Chimm Thai Thai street food. 5th Street Station. 288-1122. $$. ORDER
Doma Korean Kitchen Korean-style barbecue, kimchi, and more. 701 W. Main St. 202-1956. $. ORDER
Kanak Indian Kitchen Offering traditional homemade Indian food, plus cocktails to-go. 385 Merchant Walk Sq. Ste. 400. 328-2775. $. ORDER
Lemongrass Vietnam meets Thailand. Veggie options and delivery, too. 104 14th St. NW. 244-THAI. $$. ORDER
Lime Leaf Thai A tad more upscale than the average Thai place, open for takeout. Rio Hill Shopping Center. 245-8884. $/$$. ORDER
Maru A modern take on traditional Korean food with takeout and patio service. 412 E Main St. 956-4110. $/$$. ORDER

Milan Indian Cuisine Authentic Indian cuisine with all the standards, beer and wine available to go. 1817 Emmet St. 984-2828. $$. ORDER
Mochiko Good Hawaiian eats (and suggested Hawaiian beer pairings, too). The Yard at 5th Street Station. $. ORDER
Monsoon Siam Delicious, unpretentious favorites like pad Thai, tom yum noodle soup, and vegetarian dishes. $$. ORDER
Now & Zen Gourmet Japanese and sushi spot. 202 Second St. NW. 971-1177. $$. ORDER
Pad Thai Homestyle Thai cooking from an experienced chef. They’ll also fill your growler and give you a free hot tea. 156 Carlton Rd. 293-4032. $$. ORDER
Peter Chang China Grill Authentic Sichuan cuisine by a renowned chef. Barracks Road Shopping Center North Wing. 244-9818. $$. ORDER
Red Lantern Chinese cuisine by the pint or the quart. 221 Carlton Rd. 979-9968. $. ORDER
Silk Thai Fresh, authentic Thai, plus specials like marinated wings. 2210 Fontaine Ave. 977-8424. $$. ORDER
Tara Thai Serves up affordable Thai faves, with multiple meat, fish, and veggie options. Barracks Road Shopping Center. 984-9998. $$. ORDER

Taste of China Chinese favorites on 29N. Albemarle Square Shopping Center. 975-6688. $$. ORDER

Taste of India Delicious Indian fare and a lunch buffet under $9. 310 E. Main St, Downtown Mall. 984-9944. $$. ORDER

Ten Upscale second-floor spot serving modern Japanese and offering its popular cocktails like the Geisha and the Lychee Martini for carry-out. 120B E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 295-6691. $$$. ORDER
Thai ’99 II Thai noodle and rice dishes, curries and stir-frys in an inspired interior. Gardens Shopping Center. 964-1212. $. ORDER
Thai Cuisine & Noodle House Traditional Thai food, noodle dishes, and vegetarian specials. 2005 Commonwealth Dr. 974-1326. $$. ORDER

VuNoodles Fresh, vegetarian Vietnamese noodles, pho, bahn mi, and more. 111 E. Water St. 465-1267.  ORDER

Bakeries

Albemarle Baking Company Get your ABCs of baked goods brought right to your car. 418 W. Main St., in the Main Street Market. 293-6456. $. ORDER
Bowerbird Bakeshop Pastries, breads, and cookies using locally sourced ingredients, delivered right to your doorstep. 120 10th St. NW, bowerbirdbakeshop.com. $ ORDER

Gearharts Fine Chocolates an artisan chocolate shop that specializes in handmade confections, which also includes baked pastries, cakes, cookies, brownies coffee and hot chocolate at the cafe. 243 Ridge McIntire Rd. 972-9100. $$-$$$. ORDER

Great Harvest Bread Company Sandwiches, sweets, and bread baked from scratch every day. McIntire Plaza. 202-7813. $. ORDER
MarieBette Café & Bakery French pastries for breakfast, more pastries for lunch. 700 Rose Hill Dr. 529-6118. $. ORDER
Petite MarieBette MarieBette’s little sister. 105 E. Water St. 284-8903. $. ORDER

Paradox Pastry Fix your daily sugar craving with these baked goods and delectable treats. 313 2nd St SE #103. 245-2453. $$. ORDER
The Pie Chest Homemade breakfast and hand pies, plus by-the-slice options (for those who can’t decide). 119 Fourth St. NE., 977-0443; 1518 E. High St., 984-0555. $. ORDER
Quality Pie In the former Spudnuts spot, ex-Mas tapas chef Tomas Rahal serves inventive dishes for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 309 Avon St. 284-5120. $$. ORDER

Sliced. Cake Bar Mobile cake bar offering whole cakes, cake flights, cake pops, and buttercream shots, for delivery or curbside pickup (they’ll give you the address). ORDER

Bars and Grills

Alamo Drafthouse See a movie and get cold drinks, delicious meals and tasty local beers, brought to your seat by a server. Menu features burgers, pizzas, salads, snacks, and desserts prepared fresh from locally sourced ingredients. 375 Merchant Walk Square. 326-5056. $.

Beer Run Massive tap and packaged beer offerings, killer nachos, three meals daily. 156 Carlton Rd., 984-2337. $$. Use the orange button to ORDER
Fardowners Restaurant Local ingredients liven up pub fare like sliders and sandwiches. 5773 The Square, Crozet. 823-1300. $/$$. ORDER

Firefly Craft beer, burgers, salads, vegetarian- friendly menu. 1304 E. Market St. 202-1050. $. ORDER

Peloton Station a casual spot that marries an open bike repair shop with a restaurant/bar that specializes in killer pub fare, craft beer, and ride culture. Dine in or order online. 114 10th St. NW. 284-7786. $$. ORDER

Matchbox Restaurant Wood-fired pizzas, salads, salmon & steak dinners, gourmet burgers and a happy hour M-F from 3-6. 2055 Bond St., 284-8874. $$. ORDER

Sedona Taphouse Lots of craft beers (and sangria to-go) and an all-American menu. 1035 Millmont St. 296-2337. $$. ORDER

Selvedge Brewing  Opened in July, The Wool Factory includes Selvedge Brewing, a brewery with delicious, elevated bar fare from Chef Tucker Yoder. 1837 Broadway St. 270-0555. $$. ORDER

TCO to-go Specialty sandwiches like pulled pork and fried fish from The Catering Outfit in a drive-thru.

Texas Roadhouse Steaks, ribs, and from-scratch sides. Albemarle Square. 973-4700. $$.
Timberwood Grill All-American eatery and after-work watering hole. 3311 Worth Crossing, 975-3311. $$.

Three Notch’d Craft Kitchen & Brewery  Locally-sourced, beer-infused dishes including Southern classics and a kids menu.  Curbside & Patio Pickup at 520 2nd St. SE. 956.3141. $$. ORDER

The Whiskey Jar Saloon-style Southern spot with, naturally, more than 90 varieties of whiskey (get some in a cocktail to-go). Right now, musicians eat for free. Order from sister restaurants Revolutionary Soup and The Bebedero and pick up food from all three, at once. 227 W. Main St., Downtown Mall. 202-1549. $$. ORDER
Whistlestop Grill Southern comfort foods in Crozet. 1200 Crozet Ave. 823-9000. $. Call to order

Breakfast Joints

Farm Bell Kitchen New-Southern cuisine with local farm-to-table ingredients. 1209 W. Main St. 205-1538. $$. ORDER
First Watch Breakfast, brunch, and lunch chain with locally grown ingredients. 1114B Emmet St. N. 202-5383. $$. ORDER

Villa Diner. Mainstay with housemade pancakes, biscuits, roast turkey, soups, sides, and salad dressings. 1250 Emmet St. N. 296-9977. $. ORDER.

Murphy’s Coffee & Bagel House Ruckersville breakfast house serves delicious coffee and freshly-baked New York bagels. 26 Buck Dr. 939-6033. $$. ORDER.

Burgers, BBQ, Dogs and Diners

Ace Biscuit & Barbecue Breakfast and lunch spot with BBQ and soul food by the biscuit. 600 Concord Ave. 202-1403. $. Takeout only. ORDER
Blue Moon Diner 600 W. Main St. Beloved local diner serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner options like pancakes, breakfast burritos, burgers, and BLTs. $/$$ ORDER
Burger Bach New Zealand-inspired gastropub. The Shops at Stonefield. 328-2812. $$. ORDER

Cavalier Diner Breakfast all day, traditional diner fare, and Greek food. 1403 N. Emmet St. 977-1619.
Doodle’s Diner Country cookin’ from breakfast to burgers. 1305 Long St. 295-7550. $. Takeout only. ORDER
Five Guys Two locations for local carnivores. Barracks Road Shopping Center, 975-GUYS; Hollymead Town Center, 963-GUYS. $. ORDER
Fox’s Café Daily specials, burgers, dogs, and dinners. 403 Avon St. 293-2844. $. Takeout only. ORDER
Lazy Parrot Backyard BBQ The Lazy Parrot Grill’s sister restaurant. Pantops Shopping Center. 244-0723. $/$$. ORDER
Luv’n Oven Gizzards, livers, fries, and shakes. 162 Village Sq., Scottsville. 286-3828. $. Takeout only. ORDER
Martin’s Grill Delicious hamburgers, veggie burgers, and fries. Forest Lakes Shopping Center. 974-9955. $. Takeout only. ORDER
Mel’s Café Southern soul-soothing food. A longtime favorite on West Main. 719 W. Main St. 971-8819. $. ORDER
Mission BBQ Pulled turkey, pork, and chicken, plus racks by the bone. The Shops at Stonefield. 260-7740. $. ORDER
Moe’s Original BBQ Alabama-style pulled pork smoked in-house. 2119 Ivy Rd., 244-7427; 200 W. Water St., 202-2288. $. ORDER
Moose’s by the Creek American favorites, plus mounted moose antlers for photo ops. 1710 Monticello Rd. 977-4150. $. ORDER
Riverside Lunch Popular joint known for smashburgers. 1429 Hazel St. 971-3546. $. Takeout only. ORDER

Royalty Eats Soul food goodness including Chicken & Waffles, ribs, and specialties like teriyaki salmon. 820 Cherry Ave. $ ORDER

Wayside Takeout & Catering Famous Ole Virginia fried chicken and barbecue sandwiches. 2203 Jefferson Park Ave. 977-5000. $. ORDER
Wild Wing Café Classic wings and beer. 820 W. Main St. 979-WING. $/$$. ORDER

Coffee Places with Kitchens

Baine’s Books & Coffee Wide selection of coffee, tea, pastries, and paninis. 485 Valley St., Scottsville. 286-3577. $. Takeout only. ORDER
Belle Coffee & Wine Breakfast and lunch sandwiches. Free kids meals with adult meals. 996-4919. $$. ORDER
C’ville Coffee & Wine Full menu of coffee, sandwiches, and wines. 1301 Harris St. 817-2633. $. Takeout only. ORDER
Greenberry’s Java and specialty drinks, fresh baked goods. Order using the online advanced order app. Barracks Road Shopping Center. 984-0200. $.
Milli Coffee Roasters Espresso drinks, chai, hot chocolate, light fare, wine. 400 Preston Ave, Suite 150. 270-9706. $. Whole bean delivery available. ORDER

The Workshop A coffee and wine shop featuring Grit Coffee and pastries from Cou Cou Rachou, located in the Wool Factory. 1837 Broadway St. 270-0555. $. ORDER

Family-Friendly

Ann’s Family Restaurant Good old country cooking. 1170 Thomas Nelson Hwy. (Rte. 29, south of Lovingston). 263-8110. $. Takeout only. ORDER
The Light Well Coffee-kitchen-tavern serves healthy ingredients in original recipes. 110 E. Main St., Orange. (540) 661-0004. $. ORDER
Michie Tavern Traditional Southern lunch from an 18th-century tavern. 683 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy. 977-1234. $$. Takeout only. ORDER

Frozen Treats

Chaps More than 20 years of gourmet homemade ice cream. Diner fare including breakfast and burgers. 223 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 977-4139. $. ORDER
Corner Juice UVA alum-owned juice spot with fresh, cold-pressed options. 1509 University Ave. $. ORDER

Kirt’s Homemade Ice Cream Ice cream made fresh in the store. Albemarle Square Shopping Center. 202-0306. $. Call for pickup

La Flor Michoacana Homemade paletas (popsicles), ice cream, and ice cream cakes, plus other sweet treats. 601A Cherry Ave. 984-1603 $. Call for pickup
Smoothie King Chain features smoothies, supplements, and healthy snacks. Barracks Road Shopping Center, 295-8502; Rivanna Ridge Shopping Center, 975-5464. $.

Gourmet Groceries and Gas Stations

Batesville Market Sandwiches to order, salads, and baked goods plus cheeses, produce, and packaged goods. 6624 Plank Rd., Batesville. 823-2001. $. ORDER
Bellair Market Gourmet sandwich spot on Ivy Road. 2401 Ivy Rd. 971-6608. $. ORDER
Blue Ridge Bottle Shop Craft beer store with both bottles and growlers available—plus sample before you buy! 2025 Library Ave, Crozet. 602-2337. $. ORDER
Brownsville Market Breakfast starting at 5am, plus burgers, sides, and famous fried chicken. 5995 Rockfish Gap Tpke., Crozet. 823-5251. $. Call for pickup
Feast! Nationally noted cheese, wine, and specialty food shop. 416 W. Main St., in the Main Street Market. 244-7800. $$. ORDER
Foods of All Nations Sandwiches, deli, and salads at this gourmet grocery. 2121 Ivy Rd. 296-6131. $.  ORDER
Greenwood Gourmet Grocery Made-to-order sandwiches, fresh soup and a deli with mac-n-cheese, bread pudding, and other rotating dishes. 6701 Rockfish Gap Tpke., Crozet. (540) 456-6431. $. ORDER
Hunt Country Market A rotating menu for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, plus wine offerings. 2048 Garth Rd. 296-1648. $. Call to order
Integral Yoga Natural Foods All-natural food, organic produce, supplements, plus a deli and juice/ smoothie bar. 923 Preston Ave. 293-4111. $. Call to order
J.M. Stock Provisions Whole-animal butcher shop with sandwiches to go, great craft beer selection, and nicely curated wine selection. 709 W. Main St. 244-2480. $$. ORDER
Keevil & Keevil Grocery and Kitchen Belmont grocery with breakfast and lunch sammies, plus takeaway dinners. 703 Hinton Ave. 989-7648. $. ORDER
Market Street Café Gourmet breakfast, rotisserie chicken, and deli meats. 1111 E. Rio Rd. 964-1185. $.
Market Street Market Deli in the downtown grocery serves sandwiches and prepared foods. 400 E. Market St. 293-3478. $. ORDER
Market Street Wine An expertly curated selection. 305 Rivanna Plaza Dr., Suite 102, 964-9463; 311 E. Market St., 979-9463. $$. ORDER
Mill Creek Market The Southern sister of Bellair Market. Avon Street, across from the Southside Shopping Center. 817-1570. $. ORDER
Trader Joe’s This grocery chain boasts top quality at low cost, including “Two Buck Chuck” wine (which is actually $3.50). The Shops at Stonefield. 974-1466. $$.
Whole Foods Market Fresh, all-natural sandwiches ranging from classic favorites to vegan delights. 1797 Hydraulic Rd. 973-4900. $$.
Wyant’s Store Country-store fare like coffee and donuts, with daily specials and a great (cheap!) cheeseburger. 4696 Garth Rd., Crozet. 823-7299. $.

Italian and Pizza

Anna’s Pizza No. 5 In the family for 35 years. 115 Maury Ave. 295-7500. $. ORDER
Belmont Pizza and Pub Fresh, stone-baked pizza on hand-tossed pies. Beer, too! 211 Carlton Rd., Suite 10. 977-1970. $. ORDER
College Inn Late-night goodness. Pizza, gyros, subs, and its delivery can’t be beat. Breakfast items, too. 1511 University Ave. 977-2710. $. ORDER
Crozet Pizza Unpretentious, family-owned pizza parlor with nationally recognized pies. 5794 Three Notch’d Rd., Crozet, 823-2132; 20 Elliewood Ave., 202-1046. $. ORDER
Dr. Ho’s Humble Pie Pizza joint in the Crossroads mini-mall. 4916 Plank Rd., on 29S at North Garden. 245-0000. $/$$. ORDER
Fabio’s New York Pizza Pizza, subs, salads, and calzones made by natives of Naples. Get your pie the Sicilian way. 1551 E. High St. 872-0070. $. ORDER
Fellini’s #9 A local landmark featuring Italian favorites plus some inventive new takes. 200 W. Market St. 979-4279. $$. ORDER
Lampo Authentic Neapolitan pizzeria in Belmont. 205 Monticello Rd. 282-0607. $. ORDER

Luce Literal hole in the wall serving fresh, handmade pasta to go. 110 2nd St. NW. $$. ORDER
Mellow Mushroom Trippy-themed franchise, with great pizza and even better beer selection. 1321 W. Main St. 972-9366. $. ORDER

Red Pump Kitchen Tuscan-inspired restaurant . 401 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 202-6040. $$. ORDER

Tavola Rustic Italian with housemade pastas, craft cocktails, and a Wine Spectator award-winning list. 826 Hinton Ave. 972-9463. $$. ORDER

Vita Nova Creative ingredients on hearty pizza by the slice. 310 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 977-0162. $. ORDER

Vinny’s Italian Grill & Pizzeria This regional chain has pies plus a slew of caloric subs, pastas, and stromboli. Hollymead Town Center. 973-4055. $$. ORDER
Vivace Every kind of pasta imaginable, plus seafood. 2244 Ivy Rd. 979-0994. $$. ORDER
Vocelli Pizza Pizza, pasta, panini, salads, and stromboli for carryout and delivery, plus antipasti. Woodbrook Shopping Center. 977-4992. $. ORDER

Latin American

Al Carbon Chicken prepared in an Indigenous Mexican coal-fire flame-roasted rotisserie manner, plus sides like fried yucca and fried plantains . 1875 Seminole Trail, 964-1052. $. ORDER

Brazos Tacos Austin, Texas-style breakfast, lunch, early dinner, and brunch tacos. 925 Second St. SE, 984-1163. $. ORDER

The Bebedero Upscale authentic Mexican, plus cocktails and made-to-order guac. Order from sister restaurants Revolutionary Soup and The Whiskey Jar and pick up food from all three, at once. 225 W. Main St., Downtown Mall. 234-3763. $$. ORDER
Chipotle Simple menu of made to order burritos and tacos. Barracks Road Shopping Center, 872-0212; 2040 Abbey Rd. Suite 101, 984-1512. $. ORDER

Continental Divide Charlottesville’s favorite hole-in-the-wall spot has delicious tacos and enchiladas. 811 W Main St, 984-0143. $$. ORDER.

Fuzzy’s Taco Shop Fresh, handmade, Baja-style Mexican food. 435 Merchant Walk Sq., Suite 600. 214-0500. $. ORDER
Guadalajara Family-run Mexican food celebrating 30 years. 805 E. Market St., 977-2676; 395 Greenbrier Dr., 978-4313; 2206 Fontaine Ave., 979-2424; 108 Town Country Ln., 293-3538; 3450 Seminole Trail, 977-2677. $. ORDER

Guajiros Miami Eatery Food inspired by the everyday meals of Miami, with strong Cuban influence as well as Central and Southern American dishes. 1871 Seminole Trail, 465-2108. $ ORDER
Junction Innovative Southwestern cuisine with locally sourced ingredients in Belmont. 421 Monticello Rd. 465-6131. $$. ORDER
La Michoacana Mexican deli serves budget- friendly burritos, tacos, and enchiladas. 1138 E. High St., 409-9941; 2291 Seminole Ln., 956-4299. $. ORDER
Little Star Spanish-and Mexican-inspired food expertly prepared in a wood-fired oven. Great craft cocktails, too. 420 W. Main St. 252-2502 $$. ORDER
Mas Authentic Spanish tapas and wines in the heart of Belmont. 904 Monticello Rd. 979-0990. $$. ORDER

Morsel Compass Popular food truck’s brick and mortar spot. 2025 Library Ave., Crozet. 989-1569. $$. ORDER
Qdoba Mexican Grill Spicy burritos, quesadillas, and Mexican salads made before your eyes. 3918 Lenox Ave., 244-5641. $. ORDER

Mediterranean

Basil Mediterranean Bistro Mediterranean fare from grape leaves to tapas, plus wine. 109 14th St., 977-5700; 5th Street Station, 202-7594. $. ORDER
Cava Fast-casual Mediterranean with lots of vegetarian options. 1200 Emmet St. N #110. 227-4800. $. ORDER
Orzo Kitchen & Wine Bar Dishes from Spain to Greece and wines of the world, now for curbside pickup. 416 W. Main St., in the Main Street Market. 975-6796. $$. ORDER

Sticks Kebob Shop Fast, fresh, and flavorful food that also comes on a stick. Go to either location for a quick business lunch, a take home dinner, or catered meal while on a budget. 917 Preston Avenue and 1820 Abbey Road. 295-5262 or 295-5212. $. ORDER

Sultan Kebab Authentic Turkish cuisine with plenty of meat and vegetarian options, and notable appetizers, too. 333 2nd St. SE, 981-0090. $ Call for takeout.

Twisted Branch Tea Bazaar, The Goatherder platter with pita, hummus, cheese, dried fruits, nuts, dolmas, veggies, and olives has earned the Tea House many loyal followers.  414 E Main St, Downtown Mall. 293-9947. $.  ORDER

Miscellaneous Nationalities

Aromas Café Mediterranean and Middle Eastern fare. Sandwiches, salads, and famous falafel, open for takeout and delivery. 900 Natural Resources Dr. 244-2486. $.  ORDER

Bang! Tapas Asian fusion cuisine served tapas-style, offering frozen cocktails to-go. 213 2nd St. SW. 984-2264 $$. ORDER
Bizou Playful French-American bistro (yes, you can get the meatloaf to go). 119 W. Main St., Downtown Mall. 977-1818. $$. ORDER
Mas Authentic Spanish tapas and wines, now available for takeout. 904 Monticello Rd. 979-0990. $$. ORDER
Mahana Fresh Tropical themed, fun flavored ingredients in bowls and sweets. 2142 Barracks Rd. 284-5846 $. ORDER

Pearl Island Caribbean-inspired spot in the Jefferson School City Center, open for curbside pickup. 233 Fourth St. NW. 466-0092. $. ORDER
The Shebeen Pub and Braai Conjures the South African veldt. Vinegar Hill Shopping Center. 296-3185. $$. ORDER
Sticks A fast food alternative: kebobs (veggie options available), sides, salads, desserts. Preston Plaza, 295-5262; Rivanna Ridge Shopping Center, 295-5212. $. ORDER

Soups, Salads, Sandwiches

Baggby’s Gourmet Sandwiches Satisfying sandwiches, salads, soups, and super-friendly service. 512 E Main St. Downtown Mall. 984-1862 $.
Bodo’s Bagels Still the king of bagels in our town. Drive-thru available at 1418 N. Emmet St., 977-9598; 505 Preston Ave., 293-5224; and outside service at 1609 University Ave., 293-6021. $. For more info
Chopt Creative salad chain with ingredients from local purveyors. Barracks Road Shopping Center. 328-8092. $. ORDER
Citizen Bowl Shop Specialty salads with gluten- free, vegetarian, and paleo-friendly options. Also now selling groceries like yeast, flour, and brownie mix, plus gloves and toilet paper. 223 W. Main St., Downtown Mall. 234-3662. $. ORDER
Durty Nelly’s Down-home pub and deli now offering 5 subs (except the Dagwood) for $35. 2200 Jefferson Park Ave. 295-1278. $. ORDER
HotCakes Fancy sandwiches, housemade entrées, and desserts. Delivery available. Barracks Road Shopping Center. 295-6037. $. ORDER
Iron Paffles & Coffee Pastry dough + waffle iron + savory or sweet insides. 214 W. Water St. 806-3800. $. ORDER

Ivy Provisions Local deli and retail food shop offering fresh, housemade breakfast and lunch all day, plus a wide variety of wine and craft beer by the bottle and on draft. 2206 Ivy Rd. 202-1308. $. ORDER

Jack’s Shop Kitchen Farm-to-table brunch, lunch, and supper spot with elevated classics. 14843 Spotswood Trail, Ruckersville. 939-9239. $$.
Jersey Mike’s Subs Subs from Jersey. 2040 Abbey Rd. #104, 529-6278; 5th Street Station, 328-8694. $. ORDER
Jimmy John’s Low-cost sandwiches on 29N. “Freaky fast” delivery. 1650 E. Rio Rd., 975-2100. $. ORDER

Panera Bread Co. Ubiquitous chain with casual fare. Barracks Road Shopping Center, 245-6192; Hollymead Town Center, 973-5264; Fifth Street Station, 973-5264. $. ORDER
Revolutionary Soup Choose from a slew of enticing soups made daily; order from sister restaurants The Whiskey Jar and The Bebedero and pick up food from all three at once. 108 Second St. SW, 296-SOUP; 104 14th St. NW, 979-9988. $. ORDER
Roots Natural Kitchen Fast-casual salad and grain bowls. 1329 W. Main St. 529-6229. $. ORDER
Which Wich Superior Sandwiches Create your own sandwiches by marking up the pre- printed brown bags. Hollymead Town Center. 977-9424. $. ORDER

Steaks and Seafood

Bonefish Grill Sister to mega-popular Outback Steakhouse featuring seafood, grilled non-fish specialties. Take-out and delivery. Hollymead Town Center. 975-3474. $$. ORDER
Outback Steakhouse Bloomin’ onions and giant steaks. Takeout or delivery. 1101 Seminole Trail. 975-4329. $$. ORDER
Public Fish & Oyster Simply prepared, responsibly sourced seafood. Take-out and limited delivery, 4-8pm. 513 W. Main St., 995-5542. $/$$. ORDER

Upscale Casual

C&O Serving a 3-course menu for curbside pick-up, two entree selections each night, Weds-Sun. Order by 5pm, pickup between 5 and 7pm. All profits go to employee relief fund. 515 E. Water St. 971-7044. $$$. ORDER

Fig Bistro & Bar Mediterranean and New Orleans-inspired dishes with housemade ingredients. 1331 W. Main St. 995-5047. $. ORDER 

Hamiltons’ at First & Main Offering in-person dining inside and outside, as well as takeout options. Hours vary, closed on Mondays. 101 West Main St. 295-6649. $$. ORDER

Ivy Inn Offering curbside pick-up, Weds-Sat. Order by noon. Menus change weekly. 2244 Old Ivy Rd. 977-1222. $$$. ORDER
The Local Belmont neighborhood spot is partnering with Junction to offer a “Ten for Ten” menu of comfort food meals for $10. All proceeds to staff. 4-9pm daily. 824 Hinton Ave. 984-9749. $$. ORDER
Ivy Road House Opened in December, this timeless nod to classic restaurant fare has an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients that celebrates the best of what central Virginia has to offer. Wed-Sun 4:30–9pm. 4300 Three Notched Road. 205-4009. $$.
Maya Upscale Southern cuisine. Curbside and patio pick-up of family-style and regular menus. 12-8 pm. 633 W. Main St. 979-6292. $$. ORDER
The Melting Pot Delivery and carryout of full menu 11:30-8pm, Tues-Sun. 501 E. Water St. 244-3463. $$$. ORDER
The Mill Room Multiple menu options for carryout at The Boar’s Head, 200 Ednam Dr. 972-2230. $$$. ORDER

Oakhart Social Seasonal, creative modern American food for sharing. 511 W. Main St. 995-5449. $$. ORDER
Oakhurst Inn Coffee & Café Southern style breakfast and lunch. Open for takeout Fri-Sun mornings until 1pm. 1616 Jefferson Park Ave. 872-0100. $. ORDER
Restoration At Old Trail Golf Course, now offering takeout at the snack bar window. 5494 Golf Dr., Crozet. 823-1841. $$. ORDER
Southern Crescent Cajun and Creole fare in Belmont. Takeout and curbside pick-up Wed-Sun, 12pm – 8pm. 814 Hinton Ave. 284-5101. $$. ORDER
Wayland’s Crossing Tavern Pub food, vegetarian plates, and kid-friendly fare.  Open for takeout from 4– 8pm, Wed – Sun.  1015 Heathercroft Cir., Crozet. 205-4669. $$. ORDER
Zocalo Flavorful, high-end, Latin-inspired cuisine. Order online anytime for pickup between 4pm-8pm. 201 E. Main St., Downtown Mall. 977-4944. $$. ORDER

Winery reopenings

Food trucks

Spice Sea Gourmet (seafood)

spiceseagourmet.com

@spiceseagourmet (Instagram)

TheSpiceSeaGourmet (Facebook)

 

Farmacy Food Truck (Mexican fusion)

@farmacy.cville (Instagram)

farmacy.guru (Facebook)

 

Pye Dog (pizza)

@pyedogpizza (Instagram)

pyedogpizza (Facebook)

 

Sussex Farm (Korean kimchi and prepared foods)

@themamabirdfarm (Instagram)

sussexfarmkimchi (Facebook)

 

Tacos Gomez  (tacos)

@tacogomez  (Instagram)

Or call 953-5408

 

Little Manila (Filipino food) 

@littlemanilacville (Instagram)

LittleManilaCville (Facebook)

 

Ignacio & Maria’s Mexican Tacos (tacos)

@mexicantacoscville (Instagram)

Mexicantacoscville (Facebook) 

 

Angelic’s Kitchen (soul food)

@angelicskitchen, (Instagram)

Angelics-Kitchen-CateringLLC (Facebook)

 

Devil’s Backbone Mobile Carryout (pub fare)

website

 

106 Street Food (gourmet sandwiches)

website

@106streetfoods (Instagram)

106streetfood (Facebook)

 

106 Grilled (pressed sandwiches/panini)

@106grilled (Instagram)

 

106 Eastview (traditional and fusion Japanese fare)

@106eastview (Instagram)

 

Catch the Chef  (burgers, cheesesteaks, chicken, fish, breakfast)

@cvillecatchthechef (Instagram)

cvillecatchthechef (Facebook) 

 

El Tako Nako (tacos)

2405 Hydraulic Rd., 305-8918

 

The Pie Guy (Australian-style savory pies)

website

@thepieguycville (Instagram)

 

Blue Ridge Pizza (wood-fired pizza)

website

@BlueRidgePizza (Instagram)

 

Getting central Virginia wine to your table

Categories
Magazines Unbound

Bugged: Non-native insects threaten Virginia’s ash trees and fruit harvests.

Recognizing the threat to Virginia’s wine, beer, cider, and fruit yields, the VDOF and Virginia Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services undertook an aggressive lanternfly eradication program that started in May and runs until October 31.

With its metallic-green shell and wings, the emerald ash borer looks almost like a smaller version of a brooch your great-grandmother pinned to her lapel. But it’s not a decoration—it’s a killer. The beetle lays its eggs inside ash trees, producing voracious larvae that deplete their hosts of the water and nutrients they need to survive.

Initially detected in Michigan in 2002—a suspected stowaway in wooden packing crates arriving from its native Asia—the borer showed up the following year in Fairfax County, Virginia. In the ensuing decade and a half, it has spread across the northeast, destroying tens of millions of ash trees. A major infestation this summer in Richmond and Henrico County moved the state to issue a quarantine, that is, a prohibition against moving ash firewood across county lines or bringing it in from out of state.

“By not moving the firewood, we’re actually reducing possible exposure to the insect,” says Lara Johnson, a program manager with the Virginia Department of Forestry. “If there’s a valuable ash tree in your yard, you should get it treated.”

Pesticides are available online, at garden centers, or in big-box stores. But Johnson recommends hiring arborists to do the job, because, as certified applicators, they have both the expertise and access to more concentrated treatments. She adds that introducing a systemic remedy before or very shortly after exposure is much more successful than trying to save an infested tree.

A less prevalent but potentially much more destructive non-native species, the spotted lanternfly, sparked a quarantine order this summer in Frederick County and the City of Winchester, about 100 miles north of Charlottesville. Indigenous to China, India, and Vietnam, this planthopper (it has wings as an adult but moves mostly by crawling and jumping) was first discovered in the U.S. in 2014, and now also lives in Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Delaware. It eats more than 70 species, including stone-fruit trees like peaches and plums, as well as apples, grapes, and hops.

Recognizing the threat to Virginia’s wine, beer, cider, and fruit yields, the VDOF and Virginia Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services undertook an aggressive eradication program that started in May and runs until October 31. Elaine Lidholm of the VDACS says crews hit the lanternfly’s favorite roost, the tree of heaven, with a chemical herbicide and insecticide, and followed up with bioinsecticide applications. “Treatments will likely be repeated,” she says.

Lidholm advises that anyone who finds one (or more) of the critters outside of Winchester or Frederick County should capture a specimen and send an email to spottedlanternfly@vdacs.virginia.gov. The sample needs to be submitted for identification and verification,” Lidholm says.

If that sounds like a hassle, just imagine your life without Virginia-made beer, wine, cider, and peaches. See? We knew you’d understand—and help out if you can.

Recognizing the threat to Virginia’s wine, beer, cider, and fruit yields, the VDOF and Virginia Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services undertook an aggressive lanternfly eradication program that started in May and runs until October 31.

Categories
Living

Small Bites: A Deal at The Clifton

Photo: Read McKendree

Such a deal!

Sometimes it’s fun to be a tourist in your own backyard. The Clifton—a top-notch boutique hotel that deftly pulls off the traditional-meets-modern thing—is offering a package that might be tempting enough to keep you close to home. Book a room on a Monday or Tuesday night through August 31, and receive a $100 food and beverage credit at the elegant 1799 Restaurant. A quick check of the clifton-inn.com shows room prices ranging from $149 to $299, and ample availability.

Seeing red

At most of our local wineries, we’re accustomed to tasting vintages that range from three years old to born yesterday. So, when the opportunity arises to sample older wines—in this case, by highly regarded winemaker Michael Shaps—it’s time to jump in the car and head out to the country. From noon to 5pm on Saturday, June 22, Michael Shaps Wineworks will pour six vintages, dating back to 2007, of Shaps’ meritage red Bordeaux blend. This is an aficionado’s wine—dry, high in tannins, and complex. Because just one variety will be poured, this is what’s known as a vertical tasting—which is also apt beause it will take place while patrons stand in the winery’s tank room. The cost of $35 per person may seem a bit steep, but six samples plus special prices on three-bottle packs add up to a pretty good deal. To register, visit virginiawineworks.com/events. 1781 Harris Creek Way, 529-6848. Corrected at 5:37 June 19 to reflect the proper number of wines to be tasted—six.

Nice packaging

This isn’t a local story—yet—but the first area brewery to catch on gets a gold star. Plastic six-pack rings—or worse, those black polyethylene harnesses found on canned beers like Basic City’s 6th Lord IPA—are not only bad for the environment and oceanic wildlife, they are either too flimsy or frustratingly rigid. Invented by a Mexico-based company, the plant-based E6PR, shorthand for Eco Six Pack Ring, falls somewhere in the middle texture-
wise, and is now in use by a handful
of breweries from Florida to Washington. While the can carrier is technically edible, the manufacturer’s CEO
advises against it (and reportedly says
it has no taste or nutritional value). Whether properly disposed of (composted) or tossed into the wilds, the E6PR breaks down in 200 days or less.
Check it out at E6PR.com, and call your local brewer!

Categories
Living

But baby it’s cold outside: Wine and beer delivered to your door

Market Street Wine’s Thadd McQuade says the shop delivers anywhere downtown, up to a case or two for free. Photo by Eze Amos

In case you need one more excuse to avoid going out in the frigid weather, Wegmans is now offering beer and wine delivery through Instacart.

“We know our customers are busy, and the holidays are no exception,” says Erica Tickle, Wegmans e-commerce group manager. “We wanted to help our customers spend less time prepping and more time celebrating.”

You can place your order on Instacart online or through the app, and orders will be delivered between 9am and 10pm.

It turns out wine delivery isn’t altogether new in the area, as several local wine shops have long provided delivery service.

Market Street Wine has been delivering for 30 years, say new owners Thadd McQuade and Siân Richards.

“This was established by [previous owner] Robert Harllee and we have carried it proudly on,” McQuade says. “We’ll deliver anywhere downtown—up to a case or two for free. We have a number of long-term clients who order a case from us every few weeks. We do everything from single gift bottles to large parties and weddings, and have delivered as far as 100 miles away.”

Foods of All Nations has also long been on board with this courtesy.

“We deliver whatever customers want, wherever they want, whenever they want, and we have for many, many years—as long as you’re 21 or older,” says Tom Walters, the store’s wine consultant. “We have some older clientele and regulars we deliver to on a regular basis and we deliver for special events, catering and things like that as needed too.”

Erin Scala, owner of Keswick’s In Vino Veritas, says she provides free neighborhood deliveries on certain days of the week—Glenmore and nearby get free Thursday delivery and Pen Park and downtown customers have free Friday deliveries. She adds that any order of $200 is eligible for free local delivery.

And Doug Hotz, manager/owner of Rio Hill Wine & Beer, says he also delivers within a 10-mile radius of the store, although there’s usually a fee. He adds that most people simply call ahead or email their order and pick it up at the shop. “It’s ready when they get here and they pull up and we load it up and they go.”

Anything to stay warm and dry.

Beer for a cause

Local breweries Devils Backbone, Champion, and Starr Hill have joined Sierra Nevada Brewing Co.’s effort to raise funds for California wildfire victims—with a collaborative beer.

Sierra Nevada, which originated in Chico, California, released its Resilience Butte County Proud IPA in a campaign to aid those who lost homes and property in the devastating Camp Fire in Northern California. They’ve enlisted brewers nationwide to also brew Resilience and donate 100 percent of beer sales to the Camp Fire Relief Fund.

A Blue Moon by spring?

Blue Moon Diner owner Laura Galgano is counting the minutes till she can open the doors to diner regulars.

“Our hopes were that we’d be back in business by January 1, but it’s looking more like March at this point,” she says. “We should be back in the space by January, but we won’t finish with our portion of the renovations until late February or early March.”

The beloved diner closed in May, 2017, in preparation for construction of Six Hundred West Main, the six-story apartment building (featuring a private art gallery as well as retail space) going up behind the restaurant. The complex didn’t end up breaking ground until almost a year after the diner closed, and is now set to open in fall 2019.

“We are very anxious to return to our wonderful, wonky diner space, and our wonderful, wonky diners!” says Galgano.

Tavern & Grocery hires a “Top New Chef”

Tavern & Grocery has hired Joe Wolfson, named one of the Top 100 New Chefs in America by Food & Wine magazine, to be its executive chef.

“He brings an exciting new menu to Tavern & Grocery, with dishes including sweetbreads, duck, and osso buco,” says restaurant owner Ashley Sieg, adding that in January the West Main eatery will introduce a Sunday Suppers feature, served family style.

Wolfson was the executive chef at the Old Stone Farmhouse on St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Ms. Rose’s Fine Foods in Charleston, South Carolina.

Categories
Living

Growing interest: Shenandoah Valley’s unique climate spurs its wine resurgence

The Shenandoah Valley’s Bluestone Vineyard’s 2016 Petit Manseng and 2014 Cadenza were big winners in the 2018 Virginia Governor’s Cup Awards. Photo courtesy Bluestone Yineyard

Today, we’re seeing a wine renaissance in the Shenandoah Valley. But the history of wine growing in this region goes deeper than you might suspect.

As early as the late 1700s and early 1800s, Samuel Kercheval described how privacy-seeking neighbors obstructed horse paths by tying grape vines across them. These were likely wild grape vines growing up trees.

Kercheval also described wedding traditions in early 1800s Rockingham County, which included luxuries like fatted calves, lambs, and “wine, if it could be had.” A common wedding tradition involved stealing the bride’s shoe. And if a guest managed to get the shoe, he’d be paid a “bounty of a bottle of wine.”

Some 19th-century records in Harrisonburg, circa 1826, note that women washed their clothing in a popular spring, and hung it to dry on grape vines that had been trained as clotheslines. Distraught neighbors passed a law making this illegal.

When Abraham Scherdlin emigrated from France to Rockingham County sometime around 1813, could he have known that the vines he planted on a hillside east of Harrisonburg would kick off a pre-Prohibition zeal for Virginia winemaking in the Shenandoah Valley?

By 1866, Hockman and Forrer planted six acres (5,000 vines) on or near the Scherdlin site. In 1867, two companies planned large vineyards at or near Mount Clinton, and by 1868 Rockingham County grew several native and hybrid grape varieties including Norton, Iona, and Concord.

Within a few years, a Shenandoah Valley wine boom was well underway. Vineyards popped up in New Market, Hopkins’ Mill, Timberville, Linville Creek, and Bridgewater, and most farms in the area also had vines on the property.

Then prohibition all but wiped out interest in grapes in the Shenandoah Valley—and it’s taken almost a century to recapture the grape-growing excitement. But why is the valley so compelling to today’s winemakers?

The Shenandoah Valley AVA is great for grape growing because of its microclimates, which appeal to winegrowers for temperature and precipitation reasons. On average, sites on the slopes are 10 degrees cooler than sites on the valley floor—this allows grapes to attain higher acidity, which is generally good for winemaking. Enologist Joy Ting explains that the cool nights, in particular, make the difference. “Grapes will metabolize malic acid at night, and do so faster when it is warm, and slower when it is cold. The Shenandoah Valley enjoys cool nights, even after hot days, thus better acid,” says Ting.

Winemakers like John and Susan Kiers at Ox-Eye helped lead the way when they planted their first vineyards in 1999. The Kiers planted on limestone, a soil historically great for pinot noir. They also work with riesling and lemberger, and make stunning versions of both.

Bluestone Vineyard takes its name from a type of Shenandoah limestone, which defines their terroir. Winemaker Lee Hartman, a powerful voice for Shenandoah Valley winegrowing, encourages locavores to see wine as a local food. “The Shenandoah Valley is a fairly undiscovered wine growing region, even by the people who live here,” says Hartman. “In many regards it’s one of the best places to grow grapes with higher elevation, less rain, cooler temperatures, and an already existing farming culture. Neighboring wineries are farther apart than in Loudoun and Albemarle.” Hartman laments that in the market, even in places with a strong wine presence, wines from the Shenandoah Valley are often seen as “too remote to be seen on their shelves and tasting lists, regardless of a lower sticker price.” But we should see a shift in this trend as consumer regard increases for these unique and high-quality wines.

Golden year

The Shenandoah Valley micro- climate is hospitable to cabernet sauvignon, lemberger, petit manseng, petit verdot, pinot noir, and riesling, among many other varietals.

As winemakers in the region take advantage of ideal vineyard locations, many are turning the fruits of their labor into gold. In 2018, CrossKeys Vineyards’ 2015 Ali d’Oro was one of 12 wines that outscored more than 440 entrants to make the Virginia Wineries Association 2018 Governor’s Cup Case, in addition to winning a Gold Governor’s Cup award, along with Muse Vineyards’ 2016 Thalia and Bluestone Vineyard’s 2016 Petit Manseng and 2014 Cadenza.

Erin Scala owns In Vino Veritas Fine Wines, and is the sommelier at Common House. She holds the Wine & Spirit Education Trust Level 4 Diploma in Wines & Spirits, is studying for the Master of Wine, and is a Certified Sake Specialist. Scala writes about beverages on her blog, thinking-drinking.com.

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Living

Dennis Horton was an innovative pioneer for Virginia wine

Dennis Horton and his wife, Sharon, with their Viognier vines at the Horton Vineyards property in January 2015. Photo by Erin Scala

Dennis Horton of Horton Vineyards died June 19 at age 73, but his enduring vision for Virginia wine lives on. Horton helped shape a generation of winemakers by introducing them to now-iconic Virginia wines made from Viognier, Norton, Rkatsiteli, Tannat grapes and more. In a 2016 article about Horton Vineyards, Horton referenced his “willingness to confront the unknown,” and that experimental ethos that radiates from Horton Vineyards continues to influence winemakers around the state.

Those who worked with him in the early days remember being awestruck by the results.

“The first Viognier that Dennis put in the ground was fantastic,” says winemaking consultant Brad McCarthy, who worked with Horton in the 1990s. “We hadn’t really experienced anything like this—nobody around here had. Back in the 1990s, there wasn’t much Viognier in the world. At the end of the day the tanks du jour that were spectacular—they were Viognier.”

In a 2015 interview, Horton told C-VILLE he had been influenced to plant Viognier after visiting the Rhône Valley, in France, and also after reading a key work about the grape by wine writer Jancis Robinson. The ensuing kinetic excitement around Viognier captured the attention of attendees at the U.S. Wine Bloggers Conference in Virginia in 2011, one of who was Robinson.

“He is a great innovator,” Robinson wrote of Horton in a 2011 article. “He makes a sparkling version of Viognier.”

Things came full circle that year when—exactly 20 years after Horton planted the first and oldest Viognier vineyard in Virginia—the international wine scene recognized Horton’s Viognier, and Viognier became the official signature grape of Virginia.

But it wasn’t just Viognier. “He’s brought us Tannat, Norton,” McCarthy says. “There are whole wineries based on growing Norton now, thanks to Dennis Horton.”

Vineyard expert and wine sensei Lucie Morton remembers his Cabernet Franc, and the time Horton consulted with her about some suspicious Cabernet Franc in his vineyard (most of it turned out to be Cabernet Franc, but she found some Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel erroneously mixed in by the vine nursery).

“I’ll always love him for bringing Cabernet Franc to Virginia,” says Morton, and “for him to get started with grapes that have become so important to us and the mid-Atlantic region.” Morton also appreciates how he introduced “wonderful vinifera grape varieties that have adapted so well, in addition to historic Native American varieties.”

Many winegrowers tend to have strong opinions about which grape species are best. If you’re a wine drinker, you’ve probably tasted many wines of the vinifera species—a European species that includes many international varieties such as Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Native American species tend to be used mostly as root stocks, though for centuries in the pre-Prohibition era, they had been made into wine in the mid-Atlantic region. Hybrids (crosses between two species) are usually the heartiest to grow in marginal climates.

In his vineyards, Horton nurtured a level playing field for grape varieties of different species. This was an extraordinary thing to do in the 1990s, when vinifera activists vociferously protested the planting of hybrids and, to a lesser extent, Native American grape species. Morton remembers extreme “tension between vinifera and hybrids” when she published her book, Winegrowing in Eastern America, in 1985.

In this heated environment, Horton rediscovered Norton—a grape native to Virginia but at that time no longer grown here—and brought it from his home state of Missouri back to Virginia. He touched off a local pride for Norton, and many Virginia wineries now have a special focus on the grape. The Horton Norton remains somewhat of a calling card for local Virginia wine.

The Virginia wine industry benefited from Horton’s many successes, but learned equally valuable lessons from his failures.

“Dennis Horton probably ripped out more vines in failure than some people have actually put in the ground,” McCarthy says. “That’s what an experimentalist Dennis Horton was. I don’t know how many people really appreciate that about him.”

Emerging wine regions are up against learning curves, and the first wave of winemakers tend to absorb many of the mistakes from which their successors learn. Horton wasn’t afraid of failure, because, to him, it was just another step toward finding something that would work.

“They work,” Horton once said of Norton, Vidal, Cabernet Franc and Viognier. Through his trial and error, he begat some of Virginia’s core wine culture.

He was “this brash, kind of gruff kind of guy who was very forward-thinking and super progressive. I feel very fortunate that I got to work with him at that time,” McCarthy says.

“When you think of Dennis,” Morton says, “you think of the word bold. He had a bold, uninhibited, approach to wine.”

“Restless, opinionated, innovative, relentless—he pursued his vision with unwavering determination,” says Michael Heny, former Horton winemaker who worked with Dennis and Sharon Horton for decades. Dennis “not only worked for the success of Horton Vineyards,” Heny said, “he wanted to build an industry. An open book with his successes and failures, he mentored an entire generation of fledgling viticulturists and encouraged his winemaking team to do the same. His deep influence on the grape varieties grown in Virginia will be felt for generations to come.”