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Abode Magazines

What meets the eye: A home renovation and expansion fills an Albemarle couple’s growing needs with a modern touch—and some hidden surprises

The wife—a 40-something fitness trainer with a compact build—is standing beside the distressed-wood dining table that serves as the transitional element between the simple, serene kitchen and the airy living room, which has a vaulted ceiling accented by two triangular timber trusses and a pair of mod pendant chandeliers that look like giant bows, made with wide, woven strips of poplar. Behind her, on the far side of the room, stands an elegant mid-century credenza against an eggshell-white wall adorned only by a black rectangle, the TV monitor. The room, and the woman, are bathed in warm sunlight flowing in through big glass panes. She is standing but not still. This person radiates energy and speaks loudly, as if she were talking above the clatter and hum of a subway train. She shifts from one foot to the other and gesticulates as she describes the stylistic inspiration for the interior makeover of her family’s home. 

As it so happens, the man behind that inspiration, Jeff Dreyfus, is in the kitchen with his associate Aga Saulle, of Charlottesville’s Bushman Dreyfus Architects. Dreyfus became a friend of the woman, her husband, and their twins (a girl and a boy, now 12 years old) after working out in her classes at a local health club. One day, after she and Dreyfus had discussed the renovation, she visited his home, which—as you would expect from a contemporary modern architect—was clean, precise, and pared down. At the time, the woman admits, her house was an open-shelved shrine to the gods of domestic clutter. She’s a clothes horse with a taste for very nice shoes: Prada, Louboutin, Jimmy Choo, Charlotte Olympia. Her husband, who works from home, collects sports memorabilia. The walls of his office are an ESPN jigsaw puzzle, with photographs, jerseys, and robes signed by the greats—Larry Bird, Earl Campbell, and even Sly “Rocky Balboa” Stallone. The kids (she’s talking about them now and getting really animated) were also collectors, though less discriminating than Dad: toys, sneakers, and clothes up the wazoo! Things were strewn everywhere! (The woman’s voice rises.) The place was a mess! I mean, her husband and the kids, God love ’em, but they were all drowning in the trappings of their lives. After she saw Dreyfus’ place—so elegant and austere, everything in its place—came her awakening. “I want to live like a minimalist!” she blurts, and everyone enjoys a chuckle.

So, Dreyfus got the job, deputized Saulle as the project architect, and now their client has a home with clean lines, soothing natural surfaces in muted tones, a giant man cave above the garage where the husband works behind a desk the size of Rhode Island, a walk-in closet worthy of Bergdorf Goodman, and a ground floor where the kids and their friends can be as messy as they want to be, because all of their stuff is contained in one place, separate from the rooms upstairs, where Mom and Dad can work and entertain and live unfettered lives, you know, like adults.

Seen from the foyer, the kitchen stretches out and visually connects with the outdoors via a set of glass doors. In the right foreground, lustrous maple panels open to reveal a powder room and coat closet. Photo: Stephen Barling

 

Addition by subtraction

If all of that sounds a little too tidy, well, you’re onto something. The truth is, good architects are good at hiding things. The late, great designer Michael Graves once told me that his neighbor in Princeton, New Jersey, the wry humorist Fran Lebowitz, visited his house and, after looking around the kitchen, asked, “Don’t you architects have any ‘stuff’?”

In the case of Graves’ kitchen, the outward appearance of extreme orderliness was enhanced by frosted glass panes in the cabinet doors—and as I recall, there were a lot of cabinets. When I opened one, and then another, I saw that the contents were not all perfectly arranged. I’m not suggesting that the architect was secretly disorganized or a closet pack rat. But he knew that clear glass would have revealed too much detail, creating visual busyness. When it comes to someone’s field of view, what they can’t see does not enter their consciousness. Architects are illusionists, deliberately composing scenes. By choosing certain materials and positioning them in a particular order, the designer controls the viewer’s perception of an object, a room, or even an entire home.

Made with strings of mother-of-pearl discs, a pendant chandelier shaped like an oriole’s nest is the defining decorative element of the master bedroom. The wife’s study (bottom) is a bastion of minimalism and elegance, as comfortable for work as it is for shooting the breeze. Photo: Stephen Barling

When the client uttered the word “minimalist,” Dreyfus and Saulle understood it as a directive, just as Graves knew that frosted glass would enhance the sense of uniformity and simplicity in his kitchen. A guiding principle of minimalism is addition by subtraction. The common phrase “less is more” expresses roughly the same idea. But just because something is minimal doesn’t mean it is not robust. Addition by subtraction leads from one type of fullness to another, not from fullness to emptiness. On the becomingminimalist.com blog (yes, it exists), one writer provided a personal take on the concept: “When we remove the things from life we do not want, we make more room for the things in life that we do [want].”

What the client wanted, in a word, was simplicity. This idea applied not just to the look but also to the circulation from room to room as well as from one floor to another. The kitchen presented major problems. It stood almost immediately inside the front door, connecting the family and living rooms and forming an L shape. By virtue of its position in the entryway, the kitchen also served as a foyer and quasi-mudroom. As if that weren’t enough, the kitchen happened to be at the juncture of the stairs that led up from the basement and connected the first and second floors. It was a 3D version of one of those crazy intersections in Washington, D.C., where five roads converge on one traffic circle. 

Photo: Stephen Barling

“Coming up from the basement,” Saulle says, “One had to literally slip between the kitchen island and the oven to get to the stairs leading to the second floor.”

So, picture this: Mom gets home from the gym and is trying to make the mac ‘n’ cheese. Dad is working the phone in his home office, which is really a guest bedroom. The kids are racing around like maniacs, up and down the stairs and from the family room to the living room. That kitchen was as calm and easy to navigate as the Charlottesville City Market on a Saturday morning. Oh, but there’s more. Adding to the claustrophobia was a small bathroom adjacent to the kitchen, against the east wall. And the place looked like a ransacked Goodwill store. “There was not much storage space at all,” says Saulle. “The kitchen had plenty of open shelves, which was not functional and added to the overall cluttered feel.”

The architects’ primary task on the first floor was to bring order to this chaos. They achieved it by making a small addition—a “bump-out,” as the wife calls it—to the kitchen. The extra space allowed for shifting the kitchen away from the front entry, so that area became a proper arrival area. The next move was to seal the stairwell; a wall replaced the doorway. Access to the basement was achieved via a new staircase beyond the family room, and a spiral staircase leading upstairs was added to a widened hallway extending out of the kitchen, towards the driveway and front yard. That interior space now serves several purposes. It contains a mudroom with a built-in closet, cubbies, and a wide bench—a great place for storage and to change out of your dirt-caked boots. A new water closet accessible from the mudroom took the pressure off of the bathroom near the kitchen.

The hallway is also an axis: To the north, it’s a connector to the wife’s office, a lovely, bright room with multi-paned French doors and sidelights looking out on a small garden beside the walkway to the home’s front entry. A soft, deep-pile rug holds together the furnishings—her desk opposite the glass doors, two low-slung upholstered barrel chairs that look a bit like Pac-Woman emojis, and a couch accented with fuzzy pink faux-fur pillows. Hanging close to the ceiling in the center of the room, a ring-shaped gilt chandelier has an airy feel; its woven metal strands have golden leaves, and the whole thing is punctuated with glistening pointy light bulbs. As noted above, the room is an “office,” but it’s so cheery and comfortable that it would also be a nice spot to sit awhile and chat.

“When my office was finished, I stood in there and just thought, I’ve never been in a room that felt like this,” the wife recalls. “It’s so comfortable, classic, and cool. I love it!”

At the other eastern terminus of the axis, just past the new bathroom, stands a door that opens to an exterior breezeway. This links up with a two-story structure with a three-bay garage downstairs and the husband’s office/sports museum upstairs. The upper floor is cavernous, with a vaulted ceiling and a bathroom with a shower, so it’s easy to imagine it doing double-duty as a guest room.

Secret spaces, magical places

Let’s return now to the architect’s art of hiding things, and the wonderful feeling of discovery that can result from this. Remember the first-floor bathroom with one foot in the kitchen and the other in the family room? It’s not there. Or at least, you wouldn’t know it was there by outward appearances. What you see instead is a single volume formed by three tall walls of rich, blond maple. It looks seamless, like a big box to seal in Houdini and challenge him to escape. Only a single bronze fixture, a doorknob in the shape of a beaker’s rubber stopper, hints at an opening. Regarded only as a form, it complements the large kitchen island, which is also a rectangular box, though shorter and much longer. But when you pull on the fixture, a door glides open, swinging aside to reveal the bathroom, and behind another door, spring-activated by pushing on it, is a closet.

“We introduced the maple box as a portal between the east and the west wings of the house,” Saulle says. “It’s a beautiful spatial feature that also defines the entry area and serves as a coat closet and a powder room.”

Upstairs, another surprise awaits. As you walk down the hall toward the master bedroom (an addition with unadorned double-hung windows looking out on a pasture and woods), the wife’s walk-in closet sits to the left. With two open portals, it’s like an eddy in a stream. Any person who likes to dress well and keep her clothing and shoes well organized would die for a room like this. A crystal-encrusted donut-shaped pendant fixture glitters above a central island with many drawers. Clothes hang in open, recessed spaces lining the walls, and a large cabinet with multiple shelves and glass doors holds the shoe collection.

All of this is wonderful and lavish, and the extreme display of orderliness might lead you to believe that the wife is a neat-freak. But there’s a door in the rear wall of the closet. The wife opens it briefly—just long enough to reveal a storage space that’s a jumble of clothing and shoes in piles on the floor and hung on Ikea-ish racks. “No photographs of that, please!” she declares, laughing. Addition by subtraction, indeed. And also, out of sight, out of mind. It was considerate of Dreyfus and Saulle to add this hidden space.

One more hideaway lies in the basement, the kids’ domain. Beyond the wall of cubbies filled with toys and art supplies, and beyond the wall with the big screen for gaming and watching shows and movies, there’s a bookshelf exactly the size of a door cut into the wall. When you pop open the bookshelf, you encounter a wonderland of Legos covering two sprawling tabletops. Here, in this secret space, which also contains utilities, the twins and their friends have built little villages and street scenes out of colorful blocks. It’s enough to make you wish you were a kid again.

While the outward appearance of the renovation and expansion hews to the elegant, minimal aesthetic that is Dreyfus and Saulle’s métier, and which the client and her family requested, the invisible elements and the basement play spaces provide a counterpoint to the home’s modernist formality. They also indicate something about the client’s personality, which is, on the one hand, very precise and demanding (remember, she’s a fitness trainer), but on the flipside full of humor and joie de vivre—and secretly a little messy.

When I emailed Saulle and asked what she liked most about the project, she wrote: “[The wife] said that we turned a house into a home. I like that we helped create not only a functional home for a family but also dedicated spaces that meet specific needs of each of the family members. [She] is an amazing person, very warm and friendly, easy to work with.

“Every Thursday, after our weekly construction meeting at the site, she would send me back to the office with a box of cookies for everyone. A co-worker once said that this was their favorite project, even though they weren’t working on it.”

She ended the message with a smile emoji.

Categories
Abode Magazines

To sketch, perchance to build: A local architect uses an old-fashioned skill to bring new projects to life

Jessie Chapman is standing in the shower of her Charlottesville home. She’s fully clothed and the water is not running. Architects do this sort of thing when they’re trying to give someone an idea of the scale of a particular place. “It really is very comfortable,” says Chapman, the co-principal of Goodhouse Design.

At a time when digital rendering has all but taken over the design and architecture fields, Chapman is a diehard believer in the power of sketching as a way to visualize her work. She’s on the board of the global nonprofit Urban Sketchers, which has more than 280 chapters in nearly 50 countries. She, like other members, travels widely to connect with and work alongside fellow sketchers.

A roomy shower anchors the far end of the space; walnut and marble give the vanity a rich look; recycled glass beads comprise the shower floor. Photo: Virginia Hamrick

Chapman was featured in this magazine four years ago, two years before she’d formally joined forces with Peter LaBau—a residential designer who’s worked in Charlottesville since 2005—to form Goodhouse (see page 45). The firm has stuck with LaBau’s focus on home design and building, and Chapman has brought a new dimension to the practice. As an art history major at Wellesley College, in Massachusetts, she spent her third year in Rome, which sparked her interest in architecture. Her twin passions came together in graduate school at UVA, where she earned masters degrees in architectural history and architecture.

Since then, she has burnished her professional bona fides as an architect, but the sketching has never stopped. Her Instagram feed, @sketchwell, reveals yet another interest: food and drink. She renders with watercolors as well as on an iPad using the Procreate illustration app; the latter allows her to animate her drawings, so they take shape before your very eyes. Regardless of the medium she uses, a sandwich with a side of chips looks delicious, and so does a plate of charcuterie, a scattering of olives, a rosy bunch of radishes, and a pinkish-red negroni.

Photo: Virginia Hamrick

When we called Chapman to ask her to contribute to Abode, she said, “How about my bathroom,” and a day later she emailed an iPad rendering that stretched from the sink inside the door all the way back to the shower. When I visited her house to see the room, I gained a deeper appreciation for the artist’s eye. The sketch presented the elements horizontally, in a landscape view, when in reality the bathroom is about 13 feet long and five feet wide.

“I help clients see what a room will look like,” she says. “A computer-generated architectural drawing can be intimidating—everything appears so technical. It has to be, in order for something to be built properly.”

But the imagination to see the finished product and the skill render it? That’s Chapman’s gift.

Categories
Food & Drink Living

Eat, drink, be merry, repeat

Feliz Navidad

The 12 days of Christmas take on a whole new meaning with The Bebedero’s mezcal challenge, December 12-23. “It’s like an advent calendar with booze!” declares the restaurant’s listing. If you and your liver survive the shot-a-day contest (yes, there is a scorecard), you’ll win a free ticket to Bebedero’s rare mezcal tasting on January 15. 225 W. Main St., Downtown Mall, check bebedero.com for hours

Plum crazy

Vitae Spirits celebrates its once-a-year release of damson plum gin, a cousin of sloe gin, on December 12. Sloe plums—the currant-sized fruit of the blackthorn bush —grow only in the wild, and mostly in England. So, Vitae owner/distiller Ian Glomski substitutes damsons grown at Dickie Brothers Orchard in Nelson County. Clever fellow, he is. 2-9pm, 715 Henry Ave., 270-0317, vitaespirits.com

This beer tastes funny

We know you can’t be in two places at once, so if you’d rather take in some improv comedy on December 12, head to Decipher Brewing. 7:30pm, 1740 Broadway St., 995-5777

Fortunate Friday

Who says Friday the 13th is bad luck? Red Pump Kitchen’s annual holiday luncheon counters the superstition with a charmed Mediterranean- and Tuscan-inspired three-course menu. Among the offerings: risotto with hen-of-the-woods and oyster mushrooms, rack of lamb with marble potatoes and winter squash, and toffee carrot cake. noon, $39 per person plus tax and gratuity. December 13, 401 E. Main St., Downtown Mall, 202-6040, redpumpkitchen.com

Hurry up and shop

Crozet’s holiday pop-up craft market serves your gift-shopping needs on December 14 with works by a dozen local artisans. You’ll find jewelry, ceramics, furniture, wreaths, and more. 11am, Piedmont Place, 2025 Library Ave., Crozet, piedmontplacecrozet.com

It’s cookie time

Champion Brewing Company’s annual holiday cookie sale is perfect for the person with a sweet tooth on your gift list. All sales from the December 15 event benefit Cville Timebank, a service-exchange cooperative (it’s a good but complicated idea; look it up at cvilletimebank.com). Beer, cookies, and philanthropy—we’ll drink to that. 1pm, $15 advance tickets (recommended), cookies $12 per box, 324 Sixth St. SE, 295-2739

Sew then

When? 10am-noon, December 17 (and most Tuesdays, for that matter). Beginners to experts can all learn from sewing instructor Erin Maupin. Machines are available but if you have one, bring it with you. $15, 1747 Allied St., Suite K, 253-0906, bit.ly/sew-hive

Categories
Food & Drink Living

New to you: A flurry of restaurant openings spices up the local dining scene

Comal

After 16 years as a manager at Mas Tapas, Benos Bustamante launched Comal, an authentic Mexican restaurant, in the former Belmont Barbecue space. Just a couple of weeks after opening, Bustamante and his team are already hitting their stride. The menu marries fine dining with traditional flavors from Mexico, specifically Oaxaca, where he was born and raised. A recent meal included slow-cooked pork tenderloin tamales with a garlic sauce and green salsa, pan-seared salmon tacos with pico de gallo and guacamole mousse, seared shrimp with a purée of roasted black beans and avocado leaves (they taste a bit like basil), and silky braised pork ribs with guajillo mole and queso fresco from Caromont Farms. The core of the menu consists of food from Bustamante’s youth, with some dishes prepared from his grandmother’s recipes. One C-VILLE Weekly editor who knows her way around a kitchen says the mole negro con pollo is the best dish she’s eaten in recent memory. The presentation is meticulous and artful, the dining room small and colorful—and Bustamante’s pride in his staff so great that it literally brings him to tears.—Joe Bargmann

816 Hinton Ave., 328-2519, comalcville.com

 

BLU Point Seafood Co.

The latest addition to Staunton’s restaurant scene is a tribute to coastal foodways in the mid-Atlantic and New England. The concept came as the founders of New Southern staple, Zynodoa, contemplated gaps in area offerings.

“We spend a lot of time vacationing on the coast,” says owner Jeff Goode. “We missed those tastes—but you couldn’t get quality, sustainably caught seafood in town. And we wanted to fill that niche.” The couple purchased and spent eight months renovating a vacant downtown building, and BLU Point opened in early October.

On the menu: New England lobster rolls, boutique Chesapeake Bay oysters, and teriyaki-style tuna steaks paired with Shenandoah Valley produce. The ambiance? Think upscale family dining on the Outer Banks.—Eric Wallace

123 W. Beverly St., Staunton, (540) 712-0291, blupointseafoodco.com

The food at Kama is inspired by chef Peter Robertson’s love of Japanese cuisine. Photo by Tom McGovern.

Kama

Diners may be momentarily perplexed by Kama’s tagline, “improvised Japanese cuisine.” But once they’re seated at the restaurant, on the ground floor of the Violet Crown cinema, the title will seem less important than what ends up on the plate: inventive cooking by chef Peter Robertson, whose yen for Asian food—in particular, Japanese—was nurtured by years of eating Eastern fare in Manhattan.

Robertson is best known for Côte Rôtie, the food truck that he and his wife, Merrill, launched after moving here from Water Mill, New York, where their 12-seat restaurant won critical acclaim.

Earlier this year, Will Richey of Ten Course Hospitality approached Robertson, asking whether he’d like to change up the menu at the Violet Crown—but the chef demurred. He had established the Japanese-inflected menu at North American Sake Brewery and Restaurant and wanted to continue on that path.

In time, the chef’s passion won over Richey and Violet Crown owner Bill Banowsky, who gave Robertson the tools to follow his instincts—and hired an A-team to back him in the kitchen and manage the restaurant and bar.

Kama’s early reviews have been good to glowing. Diners have applauded familiar Japanese fare such as udon noodles with pork and vegetables in broth, lightly battered fried chicken, and seared sushi-grade fish. There’s also duck breast and rib-eye cooked on the wood-fired grill, and adventurous dishes like the one made with fish heads. The restaurant is an education in Japanese flavors, and an ambitious choice for a Charlottesville restaurant. Here’s to Robertson, for expanding our culinary vocabulary.—J.B.

200 W. Main St., Downtown Mall, 529-3015, kamacville.com

 

Jack’s Shop Kitchen

We were disappointed when this airy Ruckersville space was vacated earlier this year by chef Eric Bein’s Jack’s Shop Kitchen. Now, we’re happy to report that Bein is back, joining forces with Allan and Naomi Green, new partners who had dined at Jack’s in 2018, met the chef, and returned to settle down nearby and raise their family.

It’s a homecoming for Allan, who grew up in Fredericksburg and graduated from James Madison University before moving to Long Island, New York, to put his degree in hospitality and tourism to work. There, he met Naomi, who also works in the business. “They came to us with great interest and experience,” Bein says of the Greens. “We’re looking forward to moving ahead and growing together.” That growth includes ramping up production at Bein’s farm in Madison to provide hyperlocal ingredients.

Breakfast and lunch are now served seven days a week, but Jack’s will soon also offer dinner Thursday through Sunday. The evening menu will carry over the daily light fare—housemade soups, salads, sandwiches, and burgers—but add Southern entrées such as waffles and fried chicken and shrimp and grits.—J.B.

14843 Spotswood Tr., Ruckersville. 939-9239, jacksshopkitchen.com

 

Categories
Food & Drink Living

New whiskies in town

Signs that fall is just around the corner: cool evenings, colorful leaves, and last but certainly not least, whiskey! But this is not Kentucky, so we’re not talking bourbon. Two new releases of locally distilled single-malt whiskey are available now. Spirit Lab Distilling, a little warehouse shop on Sixth Street SE, presents the fifth annual batch of its prized liquor. We tried it, and we liked it very much. Made entirely in Charlottesville by husband-and-wife team Ivar Aass and Sarah Barrett, the pot-stilled whiskey takes on notes of dried fruit, toffee, cocoa, and baking spices (think pumpkin pie) in a maturation process that includes American oak as well as port and sherry-wine finishing barrels. It’s costly, at $88.99 and $46.99 for a full or half bottle, respectively, but with a limited release of just over 150 units combined, the run is bound to sell out (as it has in years past). Pick yours up at Spirit Lab—look for the red door at 1503 6th St. SE.

Meanwhile, Lovingston’s Virginia Distillery Company announced the September 1 release of its own single-malt whisky (the company’s preferred spelling). Called “Prelude: Courage & Conviction,” the sweater-weather libation—aged in bourbon, sherry, and cuvée wine casks, costs $69.99 a bottle and is available at the distillery or online. www.vadistillery.com

Food for good

An all-star lineup of about 20 local food and drink purveyors are gearing up for a major annual event benefiting Meals on Wheels of Charlottesville/Albemarle. Taste This! takes place September 24 at the fancy-pants Club at Glenmore, offering a feast presented by Chimm Thai and Southeast Asian, The Ivy Inn, Junction, Little Star, MarieBette, Market Street Wine, Oakhart Social, Prime 109, and Tavola, with cash-bar offerings by Early Mountain and Veritas vineyards, Random Row Brewing Co., and The Alley Light. It’s great to see a lineup like that—including many Best of C-VILLE 2019 winners and runners-up—coming together for a good cause. Tickets are $75, and they sell like hotcakes. Visit cvilletastethis.com.

Categories
Living

Small Bites: A Deal at The Clifton

Such a deal!

Sometimes it’s fun to be a tourist in your own backyard. The Clifton—a top-notch boutique hotel that deftly pulls off the traditional-meets-modern thing—is offering a package that might be tempting enough to keep you close to home. Book a room on a Monday or Tuesday night through August 31, and receive a $100 food and beverage credit at the elegant 1799 Restaurant. A quick check of the clifton-inn.com shows room prices ranging from $149 to $299, and ample availability.

Seeing red

At most of our local wineries, we’re accustomed to tasting vintages that range from three years old to born yesterday. So, when the opportunity arises to sample older wines—in this case, by highly regarded winemaker Michael Shaps—it’s time to jump in the car and head out to the country. From noon to 5pm on Saturday, June 22, Michael Shaps Wineworks will pour six vintages, dating back to 2007, of Shaps’ meritage red Bordeaux blend. This is an aficionado’s wine—dry, high in tannins, and complex. Because just one variety will be poured, this is what’s known as a vertical tasting—which is also apt beause it will take place while patrons stand in the winery’s tank room. The cost of $35 per person may seem a bit steep, but six samples plus special prices on three-bottle packs add up to a pretty good deal. To register, visit virginiawineworks.com/events. 1781 Harris Creek Way, 529-6848. Corrected at 5:37 June 19 to reflect the proper number of wines to be tasted—six.

Nice packaging

This isn’t a local story—yet—but the first area brewery to catch on gets a gold star. Plastic six-pack rings—or worse, those black polyethylene harnesses found on canned beers like Basic City’s 6th Lord IPA—are not only bad for the environment and oceanic wildlife, they are either too flimsy or frustratingly rigid. Invented by a Mexico-based company, the plant-based E6PR, shorthand for Eco Six Pack Ring, falls somewhere in the middle texture-
wise, and is now in use by a handful
of breweries from Florida to Washington. While the can carrier is technically edible, the manufacturer’s CEO
advises against it (and reportedly says
it has no taste or nutritional value). Whether properly disposed of (composted) or tossed into the wilds, the E6PR breaks down in 200 days or less.
Check it out at E6PR.com, and call your local brewer!

Categories
Food & Drink Living

Soul kitchen

How does a new restaurant get away with having just six items on the menu? By making all of them very, very well. What you’ll get at the Soul Food Joint is crispy-battered fried chicken, fall-off-the-bone ribs, tender-as-a-lullaby pulled pork, simmered-to-perfection collards, boy-oh-boy baked mac & cheese, and deviled eggs better than the ones your grandmother made.

In this case, owner Shaun Jenkins’ late grandmother, from Butler, Alabama, created the recipes. “Then she passed that special touch down to my mother, Helen Alexander, who showed me everything I know about comforting the soul through delicious foods,” Jenkins says.

He describes his little spot as “somewhere between a restaurant and a food truck,” and indeed, patrons may either sit inside or pick up their food at a window that opens onto the sidewalk. Sharing space with The Salad Maker at 300 Market St., The Soul Food Joint is open 11am to 3pm Wednesdays in June, after which the hours and the Friday and Saturday night menu (served until 3am!) will expand.

Booze news

In March, we reported that a distillery with the provisional name Vodka House would open in the former Clock Shop building at 201 W. Water St. We were right! Charlottesville’s Wilson Craig, a 2016 UVA grad, and his father, Hunter E. Craig—local bank executive, real estate mogul, and member of the UVA Board of Visitors—are looking at a July opening of Waterbird, a maker of “premium distilled spirits,” according to a sign outside the corner shop. Hunter Smith, of Champion Brewing Company, has signed on as a consultant. Wilson Craig says the distillery’s completion has been fast-tracked for July 1, with production beginning shortly thereafter. A source familiar with the project says Waterbird will produce canned beverages. “It’s going to be different than anything else in Charlottesville,” Craig says. “We’re excited.”

Now you’re cookin’!

After a gnocchi-making tutorial on June 9, Red Pump Kitchen’s summer Sunday cooking classes move on to pizza and cavatelli on July 12 and August 11, respectively. Newbies and serious foodies alike can sharpen their knife skills, knead to their hearts’ content, and learn how to make Tuscan-inspired sauces. See redpumpkitchen.com for details.

Categories
News

City vision

Former Charlottesville mayor Maurice Cox, now Detroit’s director of planning and development, talks about managing growth, recovering from a crisis, and the power of telling the right story.

There was a time when Maurice Cox couldn’t escape being recognized in Charlottesville. In August 2012, almost a decade after he served as mayor, he sat with a reporter at a restaurant on the Downtown Mall, on the eve of his departure to New Orleans to become dean of community engagement at Tulane University School of Architecture.

“The Honorable Maurice Cox!” a passerby yelled, and Cox responded with a wave and a smile. “Once a mayor, always a mayor here,” he said. “I’m going to miss that.”

More recently, the man who served as Charlottesville’s mayor from 2002 to 2004 again joined a reporter for lunch on the mall. No one called out to him, and Cox enjoyed a bacon cheeseburger in quiet anonymity. But if brilliant city planners commanded the cultural pull of movie stars, the paparazzi would have been swarming.

Now the director of planning and development in Detroit, Cox was in town for final reviews of students’ work at the UVA School of Architecture, where he was an assistant professor from 1993 to 2012. Cox, who received his degree in architecture from New York’s Cooper Union in 1983, has also been design director at the National Endowment for the Arts, spent six years teaching architecture in Florence, Italy, as part of Syracuse University’s Italian program, and, while in New Orleans, was director of Tulane City Center. Architect Magazine has noted that Cox “is considered to be a phenomenon within urban planning circles: smart, passionate, and inspiring.”

Given all of this, and Cox’s record as a public official in Charlottesville, we were eager to get his take on how our city has evolved—and dealt with adversity—since he left.

He knows dire situations. He arrived in New Orleans while the city was still reeling, albeit years later, from Hurricane Katrina. And he answered the call in Detroit in the wake of its historic population decline and declaration of bankruptcy.

Cox also faced a major crisis when he was in office in Charlottesville. In fact, if he and a group of fellow activists hadn’t stepped up, the city may have become a town in Albemarle County as part of a “reversion” movement. But Cox not only prevailed in the face of that existential threat, he laid the groundwork for Charlottesville to develop a dense urban core, become navigable on foot and by bicycle (his trademark form of transportation to this day), and combat sprawl and displacement of city residents.

The latter is still a challenge, and some of his projects (like his quest for a trolley along Main Street) never came through. But to the extent that Charlottesville exudes a sense of “urbanity” (his word) it can be traced back to Cox.

A skilled multitasker, the pin-thin former mayor, dressed in a slim gray suit and bright green shirt on a sunny day in May, managed to share his views of Charlottesville while also polishing off that fist-sized cheeseburger.

C-VILLE Weekly: Among the issues you faced as city councilor and mayor was reversion—the idea that Charlottesville would revert back to being part of Albemarle County. Why do you consider that a crisis moment?

Maurice Cox: It was ultimately an excuse to sprawl. We recognized that moment and saw an opportunity to think about how we grow in our own footprint.

The city needed to replenish its tax base. Housing, middle-class housing, was just nonexistent. So, reversion was a way of annexing effectively all of the commercial property that is the sprawl of Route 29. But it wasn’t going to address the sprawl, per se, or create urbanity—to have Charlottesville grow up.

We started looking at our commercial corridors and zoning ordinances, and we said, You know what? Let’s throw the sucker out if it’s not going to produce the kind of city we want, and look strategically at where we can absorb density.

The density you speak of is arriving on West Main Street now. Is that what you envisioned?

At the time, the goal was to give West Main Street enough density to support transit and a vibrant public realm. So, yes, the emerging density is consistent with what we had envisioned. But the goal was also to promote a density sensitive to its immediate context. Any misgivings I have today pertain to the scale of the development and the architecture of many of the new buildings.

In his time on council, Cox pushed for more density on West Main (pictured at left in 2011). Now, much of that development has materialized, but Cox has misgivings over the scale and architecture of some of the new buildings. Photos: Steve Trumbull (left); Skyclad Aerial (right).

For example?

The architecture developing towards the university hospital end of West Main appears to be of good quality and scaled for pedestrian use. The new construction beginning to intermingle with the existing buildings between the Amtrak station and Ridge McIntire Road also looks extremely promising—in large part because there was enough historical context for the architects to respond to. That end seems to be producing what I call “gentle density,” which is sensitive to its context and pedestrian in scale.

On the other hand, The Standard and The Flats are completely generic, architecturally dated, and insensitive to the scale of the neighborhoods to the north and south, Fifeville and Westhaven. The monolithic nature of The Standard effectively—and intentionally, I believe—creates a wall denying residents of Westhaven pedestrian access to West Main, and should never have been allowed to happen. The Flats student housing, which was supposed to transition down to the single-family neighborhood of Fifeville, according to the zoning, does the opposite, growing taller towards the neighborhood.

This happened because special density variances were granted, and I’m sure the council that approved the exception wishes today that they had followed their own rules. Just proves that it’s possible to get the density right and the form and the scale completely wrong.

The most obvious recent crisis the city has faced was brought on by the Unite the Right rally and its fallout. What is your opinion of how the city has handled that?

It was an enormous opportunity. But the statues are still standing, which suggests that we haven’t dealt with the crisis.

But it’s part of a larger issue that Charlottesville has dealt with for many, many years. Monticello, anyone?

It’s fascinating, because during the ’90s, the first thing Monticello had to address was the relationship between Sally Hemings and Thomas Jefferson. At first, they didn’t embrace this, but the evidence was so compelling that they had to acknowledge it. And it’s become a part of the incremental recasting of Monticello as a plantation, as opposed to a presidential retreat.

It is incremental, as you say.

On my way here, I walked past the memorial being built about UVA and its relationship to slavery. That’s another incremental step—the university coming to grips with that legacy. But the bigger issue right now is the city itself. And I think that until the city constructs another narrative, it is going to be known for that day in August.

In Detroit, the popular press wrote the narrative for 50 years. And it’s only through the force of a collective will that a new narrative is starting to emerge. I can take some ownership of that, but it does require a kind of collective courage. Individual courage, no, because you don’t do these things alone.

I presume that the narrative for Detroit is that the comeback is real. But people have heard that story before. Why is it different now?

When I arrived [in 2015], the city had just gone through bankruptcy. Without having gotten rid of that debt, I don’t think we would be able to attract the investment that’s being attracted now. We have an administration that can actually perform the duties expected of government, like getting lights to come on at night, picking up trash, demolishing burnt-down houses, getting emergency vehicles to arrive. That’s been the precursor to my being able to engage residents in a conversation about the future, because the present was being tended to.

We’ve had hundreds of meetings with residents. We’re listening, and we’re talking about the character of their neighborhoods, and what the future should look like. It’s a very empowering experience, for anyone who was normally preoccupied with the basics, to have enough mental space to talk about the future, and have some hope.

So what else could Charlottesville do?

You think about what other generations did, how they used civil disobedience. They got arrested for things they believed in. This notion that the courts, the Virginia courts, would cart our city council off to jail if they defied the order that the monuments could not be removed—I’d be curious to test that. I think it would be a national story. It’d be an international story.

There are other cities that removed the statues, and they did not face the legal impediments that Charlottesville has faced. But you don’t deal with these issues by soft-pedaling. That’s where civil disobedience comes in. I’m afraid that ultimately that’s what it’s going to take. Every day [the statues] sit there on the plaza is a reminder of unfinished business.

Let’s return to the issue of development in Charlottesville. Is what you’re seeing now a fulfillment of your ideas? Where do you think we stand?

We clearly made the argument that there are places that could and should absorb higher density that would create a kind of context for a pedestrian-oriented development with character. And so, the density is landing in the right places, but the character is questionable.

There’s also the challenge of unintended consequences. When you create the density that could potentially support transit and walkability, you make something of value that can create displacement, which has happened. The question is, how do you offset the fact that you created something of value? The answer is generally in the realm of affordable housing.

In Detroit, the city has made a commitment to 20 percent affordable housing in any development that receives public resources, and a commitment to retain 10,000 units of federally regulated housing. That includes Section 8 housing like Friendship Court in Charlottesville. Affordable housing has to be grafted onto the market-rate housing.

You invest in the public realm, and you protect the existing inventory of affordable housing so that people don’t get displaced. You do one without the other, then you’re going to get displacement, and that seems to be the challenge that Charlottesville faces. Put in the density and investment in the public realm, but also don’t forget to put in the policies and mechanisms for robust pushback in the area of affordability.

What we’re talking about for Detroit is a growth strategy. It stems from the basic notions that everyone who stuck it out with the city through thick and thin deserves to benefit from the opportunity that growth presents, and that the city should follow public policy that assures it’ll happen.

We were talking earlier about sprawl. Have you noticed the development along Route 29, out Fifth Street Extended, along Route 20?

Yeah, there’s a lot of it.

What does that signal? For most people those places are not affordable.

It’s all feeding off of the success of the urban core and the proximity to a thriving urban center. It’s a symptom of the city’s success that the county sprawl may be a little more tidy, but the quality is really, really low. Maybe in 50 years we’ll look back and [the new developments] will have provided the massive amounts of affordable housing that we need—that’s what it’s going to become, because quality has not been a factor in its development.

There is also the issue of public transportation. What are your observations about that in Charlottesville?

It’s still a fundamentally car-dependent region that’s not pushing hard enough on the alternative transit options. This is where the governmental structure inhibits the kind of regional cooperation that you need for transit. There’ve been fits and starts, but mostly fits and stalls.

That’s not unlike other areas that have a divide between the city and county. We always said, ‘Well, let’s try to jumpstart a pedestrian-oriented, transit-oriented core.’ And that’s where a streetcar down Main Street was a very viable scenario. It would have been an important demonstration that we can weave other modes of transportation into this small city.

Maurice Cox in 2006. Photo: Jen Farielo

Is it really any different in Detroit?

There’s a similar reluctance to embrace alternative modes of transportation in Detroit, the Motor City. But we’re pushing hard by making protected bike lanes a part of all the street improvements. Detroit is wonderfully flat and the streets are wonderfully wide, and you can get a lot of different modes of transportation in them. Detroit laid more protected bike lanes, which are the ones up against the curb with a buffer, than any city in America last year.

What else is Detroit doing to support alternative transportation?

We’ve identified 30 different areas where we can make Main Streets, slow the traffic down, integrate more modes of transportation, and create a public ground. We call them micro-districts. What we’re going for is not unlike the ambiance here on the mall, where you can shop and recreate within a 20-minute walk of your house.

Charlottesville is a great example to consider, because the mall is only eight blocks long. This is about as far as you are probably willing to walk for a couple of restaurants and your favorite coffee. And so, most of the micro-districts we are conceiving of in Detroit are no more than six, eight blocks long. But can you create that kind of mixed-use, retail Main Street in every single one of the neighborhoods? We think you can in some, and that’s more or less what’s happening.

It also involves increasing density, but it’s much more gentle density than even what we’re seeing here. Most of the buildings are three or four stories, maximum six, and we’re conferring with the public to set the tone and address the question of quality. We’re not just letting the market do what it wants to do, which is to be kind of status quo and mediocre. We want excellence. We’re pushing publicly commissioned work to an extreme, and then asking the private sector, can you top it?

Given the sheer size of Detroit— 139 square miles, as opposed to Charlottesville’s 10.4 square miles —is there an acknowledgment that some parts, and perhaps even some very large parts, are going
to have to be fallow?

Or that some parts are going to have to wait, which is what interests me about Detroit. It’s a laboratory for slow, sustainable urban growth. We’re experimenting with what it’s like to create an urban environment where you can walk and bike, but at the same time, we recognize that the same set of tools won’t work in neighborhoods that have lost significant populations.

We are now getting to those neighborhoods where you have to have a different maintenance strategy for vacant land. It might be a reforestation effort. It might be intersecting reforestation with commercial nurseries, tree nurseries. We are testing that idea. It might be hundreds of flowering meadows, and we have a place where we’re testing that idea, too. We acknowledge that you’re going to have to shift to a landscape-based strategy in areas that feel more rural, so it would be a mistake to try to force them to be urban.

You get that cross-section of neighborhood types in Detroit to explore. It’s a wicked problem. Every day we attempt to address it. I see why no other city in America that went through extreme population decline has succeeded. But we do have an appetite for experimentation. We acknowledge that one size doesn’t fit all. And so, the exact opposite of uniformity is what’s going on in Detroit.

Speaking of empty space, was City Yards an issue when you were mayor? How would you deal with it, with the benefit of hindsight?

I think with City Yards and a few other places near downtown, you could afford to do some unconventional experimentation. I don’t think it’s about high-density development. It’s probably about landscape as a framework. Yeah, I think it’s too valuable to stay fallow, but it’s too big and difficult to use a conventional set of tools. And there’s no shortage of fantastic landscape thinkers right here in Charlottesville. A very intentional bridge has to be made between city government and the academy, and it can be figured out.

Of the problems that you saw and addressed when you were here, which ones still exist, and how should they be handled?

These things can’t be approached in the abstract. Racism exists. Where does it exist? Does it exist in our housing policy? Does it exist in the economic opportunity given to entrepreneurs? It has to be grafted onto something real. So getting together for a kumbaya conversation about racism, while it may temporarily make you feel good, produces very little lasting impact. When you say we’re going to address the displacement of people by changing our housing policy, that’s tangible. When you say we’re going to build a cultural center to make sure that the history and the legacy of urban renewal is forever understood, like the Jefferson Center, that’s a tangible example of addressing an issue.

Even an effort to have minority businesses on the mall would be a good start. In Detroit, we have a program that matches entrepreneurs to real estate opportunities—and everything from business planning to getting the bricks and mortar—to open up a shop. Sixty-five percent of the people who receive grants are women, 70 percent are people of color. That’s a direct answer to, will economic opportunity on these Main Streets that we’re creating look and feel like the communities they exist in?

Where does your experience in architecture come in?

The power of design is its ability to convene people around a project, not an abstraction, and that is one of the reasons why design is so engaging even for the laypeople. At the end of it, there’s something standing there that’s a built environment, that’s a natural environment as a result of your hours and hours and hours of meeting. I think those are tangible ways to address issues of equity and inclusion. That’s been a mainstay. At least it’s been a mainstay in my career to use the imperative to build, to shape, as a way to have a larger conversation about what kind of community we want, who belongs in it, and how do we all get access to it.

In Detroit, we do it by culturally tagging infrastructure that is unifying the city. The Joe Louis Greenway, which unites dozens of neighborhoods, was purposefully named so that for the next hundred years people will think of this iconic sports figure as someone who unites the city. Or we do a park, and we bring a renowned African American artist, Hubert Massey, to work in the infrastructure of art, in this case a 160 foot-long mosaic tile wall that turns into a community build with kids and adults. It’s also in a park named after Ella Fitzgerald, another cultural icon. And so, these are ways to bring in a creative impulse that tells people…that this belongs to them.

So, you’re still commuting by bicycle in Detroit, as you did here?

I am. I live a commutable distance from work. I’ve always insisted on biking, and hiking and walking, ever since Charlottesville. I can see the city with all of my senses, and it helps you pay attention to detail and to the feel and the character of a place. It’s my way of doing some research even in the most banal act of going from home to work.

Do you think Detroit will ultimately be a success story?

Well, in some ways it already is. Let’s not forget that it’s also the largest African American city in America. So when a black city builds more protected bike lanes than a city like Portland, that in and of itself is newsworthy, and what does that mean? I’m always mindful that it’s not like we’re just doing this in any city. We’re doing this in the blackest city in America. Majority African-American cities have long been equated with dysfunctionality, corruption, and poverty. We have a chance to defy that stereotype and write a different narrative about a progressive, exploratory, inclusive, African American-majority city.

We are mindful that it’s a narrative that is very, very powerful. And that’s what I mean by Charlottesville has to find a way to snatch back its public narrative. Detroit did it with an onslaught of positive, affirming, forward-looking, progressive stories.

All of a sudden people feel like we’ve cured something. But we still have poverty. We still struggle with vacant land and home abandonment. But the counter-narrative is so compelling that people are not writing exclusively about Detroit’s decay and decline. I’ve seen that happen in a matter of four or five years, so I know that Charlottesville can do that.

It’s not going to happen just by the passage of time. People are not just going to forget, and I think that’s the issue: What willful actions can your public leaders and civic leaders take to snatch back the narrative of Charlottesville?


Highway blues: losing the battle for McIntire Park

When Maurice Cox was elected to the City Council in 2000, debate over the proposed road then known as the Meadowcreek Parkway had ground on for decades. The road, eventually christened the John W. Warner Parkway, is now a reality, but it looks the way it does (“a beautiful parkway rather than a highway,” as Cox puts it) in large part because of efforts by Cox and other local activists.

After decades of debate, the John W. Warner Parkway, which connects East Rio Road to McIntire Road at the U.S. 250 Bypass, finally opened in January 2015. Photo: Skyclad Aerial

The parkway, first proposed in the 1960s, aimed to connect East Rio Road with McIntire Road, easing traffic on Rio and Park Street, and providing more direct entry into the city of Charlottesville from suburban northern Albemarle County neighborhoods.

“I was convinced then and still believe today that the Meadowcreek Parkway was Charlottesville’s greatest gift to Albemarle County,” Cox says. “Charlottesville sacrificed the city’s largest park, McIntire Park, in order to relieve traffic pressures from the county’s out-of-control growth along 29 North.”

Plans were coalescing by the time Cox was elected, but opponents, who challenged the then-prevalent idea that building more roads would ease traffic on existing ones, had laid out a set of demands for keeping it circumscribed. Among other concerns, they sought to ban truck traffic, limit speeds, and reduce the number of travel lanes from four to two.

“We never had the votes to kill the darn thing,” says Cox, “so instead I spent eight years of my political career trying to ‘defang’ a four-lane divided highway, aimed straight through the heart of downtown.”

Cox fought successfully for design restrictions that kept its interchange with the U.S. 250 Bypass relatively compact and its footprint narrow, so future leaders wouldn’t easily be able to widen it.

“Being a designer, I figured if you couldn’t kill it then perhaps I could use the power of design to resize the threat and remake it into one of the best two-lane parkways Virginia has built in a generation.”

But he adds, “we shouldn’t forget that we lost out on a great opportunity to gift to the next generations a world-class McIntire Park.”

Categories
Living

Thank T.J. it’s Fridays: Happy Hour at Monticello!

Join Thomas Jefferson—aka Bill Barker, the new T.J. impersonator—for local wine, beer, and picnic fare from Farm Table, on June 14 on the west lawn of the presidential plantation. Monticello is always a beautiful place to visit, but at twilight, with an adult beverage in hand, you may gain a new perspective. (Hell, Barker may even seem to be an apparition.) Stroll the grounds, explore the gardens, and take in the views from the mountaintop as evening approaches and the work week fades in your rear-view mirror. If the mosquitoes swarm, you can escape inside for a special tour of the upper floors. Also offered, sans Barker, on July 12 and August 9. $5 admission; pay-as-you-go for food and drink. Indoor tours must be booked in advance. 931 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy., 984-9800, monticello.org.

Wine and dine

Summer winery dinners are kicking into high gear, offering a special night out for the local staycation crowd. On June 14, Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyards’ Strawberry Moon Wine Dinner features Mara des Bois strawberries (they’re small, French, and sweet, like Audrey Tautou) from the winery’s kitchen garden in each dish of chef Ian Rynecki’s multi-course meal, which also includes wine pairings by Michael Shaps of Michael Shaps Wineworks. Veritas Vineyards’ Starry Nights food, music, and wine events take place June 8, July 13, and August 10, featuring live bands and a range of offerings, from simply laying out a picnic blanket to enjoy the evening on the expansive grounds to a three-course meal on the porch. A more down-home experience awaits at Knight’s Gambit Vineyard on June 29, when Americana band Kat & the Travelers play on the porch while a food truck serves up tacos. Overlooking a horse pasture and with mesmerizing mountain views, Knight’s Gambit is an Albemarle County gem. Meanwhile, on the evening of June 14 at Glass House Winery, in Free Union, Charlottesville’s ADAR Duo provides the tunes and the Two Brothers Southwestern Grill food truck rolls in from Ruckersville. See the wineries’ websites for details.

Categories
Abode Magazines

We ask, designers answer: What’s your favorite coffee-table book?

Natural Virginia, by Ben Greenberg

“The pictures and layout are spectacular. I love being able to share the beauty of the wonderful state of Virginia with out-of-town company when they’re visiting.”—Kori Messenger, Foxchase Design

Chasing Bocuse, by Philip Tessier

“It’s a dream for designers and foodies—a well-told story of the journey of America’s first chef to win the gold medal in the international Bocuse d’Or (the Olympics of the culinary world). Tessier’s attention to detail is impressive, and the book has beautiful photographs of food and perfectly designed tableware.”—Alana Woerpel, Alana’s LTD Interior Decoration

Storied Interiors: The Work of Patrick Sutton, by Patrick Sutton

“Sutton is a mid-Atlantic interior designer. His most notable work is the Sagamore Pendry Hotel, in Baltimore, which was just rated the best new hotel in America by Condé Nast Traveler. If this book doesn’t inspire a weekend Amtrak trip up to Baltimore, I don’t know what would.”—Christopher Henry, president, Stony Point Design/Build