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It’s well known that our founding fathers brewed beer, distilled whiskey, and, in the case of Thomas Jefferson, worked diligently to make wine in Virginia. But cider, too has been in production since the Colonial era—both Washington and Jefferson also grew apples and brewed cider. The industrial revolution saw a decline in the cider industry, but these days the beverage is experiencing a resurgence in the state.

Traditional cider comes from apples specifically selected for cider making, because they are not necessarily “good eating.” Cider apples can taste sour from high acidity or bitter from high tannin content. Just like in winemaking, these components provide structure, mouthfeel, texture, and complexity of flavor, and make cider a beautiful pairing with food.

Patrick Collins of Patois Cider explains that “cider isn’t monolithic,” and therefore there’s “lots of versatility with potential pairings based on varietal, terroir, cellar techniques,” and so on. He says that many ciders are “delicate and nuanced” and may get lost with heavy sauces. He suggests pairing them with “strong singular flavors like soft-ripened cheese.”

One example is Arkansas Black from Albemarle CiderWorks. It has delicate flavors of green apples and melons, refreshing acidity, and a bit of tannic structure that brings a slight minerality. In addition to pairing well with a soft triple-cream cheese, it works well with oysters, shellfish, or truffled pasta and dishes with a lighter white sauce.

Potter’s Craft Cider’s Pelure goes in a very different direction, intentionally keeping juice in contact with the skins for an extended period of time and aging in oak for 10 months, much like a red wine. The resulting tannic structure is balanced by acidity and a light bubbly effervescence that lifts what otherwise might be a very heavy and structured cider. This cider is not for everyone, it can accurately be described as “funky” or “meaty,” and it can be paired with heavier food. Try it with roast chicken, salami, sausages on the grill, or venison stew.

Patois Cider’s Bricolage is a sparkling cider made in the traditional method (the same method as Champagne) and produced entirely from foraged fruit. The bubbles and fruit aromas might give the initial impression of a light and whimsical cider, but you’ll find complex and deep flavors that bring to mind flowers, dried apricot, tart plums, and wet stone. It begs to be paired with food and is versatile enough to drink through your whole meal. A classic cider pairing with roast pork works exceedingly well, but also try it with fried chicken, roasted whole fish, and smoked mushroom tacos.

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Culture Living

Thanks, Virginia: Go local at your holiday table this year

If you are looking for the perfect beverage to accompany your Thanksgiving meal, area producers have many options, ranging from beer to wine to cider. Here are some recommendations to help you drink well while also drinking local.

Amber and brown ales are obvious options for pairing with turkey, stuffing, potatoes, and gravy. The seasonally offered Apple Crumb Apple Ale from Three Notch’d Brewing adds an extra dimension by incorporating apples and cinnamon into the brew. These notes combined with malty, bready, and caramel flavors will remind you of freshly baked apple pie.

A sour or funky farmhouse ale, or even a full-on sour beer, can bring a bit of acid to the table. The sourness  cuts through the fattiness of roasted meats, while side dishes with fruit flavors or sweetness bring out similar fruit notes in the beer. Starr Hill’s Carole Cran-Raspberry Gose, only available through December, delivers autumn berry flavors and a nice balance of sweet and sour fruit.

The vanilla, caramel, and chocolate notes found in porter are a great match for dessert. Strange Currencies, from Reason Beer, was originally brewed as a birthday present from the head brewer to his wife. It’s currently available in four-packs of 16-ounce cans direct from the brewery. It’s full and satisfying enough that it could be served on its own instead of dessert, but who is going to pass on that slice of pie?

Two wines deserve a second recommendation in these pages because they are perfect for Thanksgiving: The 2017 petit manseng from Michael Shaps Wineworks and 2017 pinot noir from Ankida Ridge Vineyards. Shaps’ petit manseng is a dry, white wine with weight and texture that brings flavors of honey, tropical fruit, and nutmeg spice at the finish. As a white wine, it can pair with lighter fare, and with roast chicken or turkey. Pinot noir is the classic red wine to pair with Thanksgiving turkey, and the pinot noir from Ankida Ridge Vineyards is the best example of the varietal in Virginia, full of flavors of cherry, cranberry, plum, and cola. Its long, fruit-filled finish will have your mouth watering and anticipating the next bite or sip.

The 2017 Small Batch Series Viognier from King Family Vineyards should also be on your radar. Winemaker Matthieu Finot ferments these white grapes on their skins, more like a red wine would be produced, thus adding aromatics on the nose, and creating a fullness on the palate, and texture in the mouth that will stand up well to the dishes of the season. Similar to the petit manseng mentioned above, this white wine holds up well throughout the meal.

When it comes to Virginia red wine, we can’t forget cabernet franc, which has the perfect weight and flavors for stewed, roasted, grilled, and smoked meats. The 2019 Madison County cabernet franc from Early Mountain Vineyards is a wonderful example of what this grape can be when grown on a good site and in an excellent vintage year. It’s full of ripe red and black fruits with undertones of green herbs and a full finish highlighted by soft, fine tannins.

For many, cider evokes visions of dry falling leaves, pumpkin patches, and hayrides on the farm. Our local industry continues to push forward with creativity and passion, and cider-lovers are benefiting from interesting small-batch, craft products.

The Cranberry Orange Blossom Cider from Potter’s Craft Cider is a limited and seasonal release. With subtle hints of sweet and sour flavors and a pleasant acidity, it will cut through heavier, fattier dishes and can serve a similar role as the sour beers mentioned above. Intentionally produced at only 5.5 percent alcohol by volume, it’s bright and easy drinking that won’t weigh you down before your celebration is over.

Another intriguing option is the just-released 2019 Bricolage Sparkling Cider from Patois Cider. Featuring wild, unsprayed local apples and a minimal intervention fermentation process, this cider develops fine bubbles in the bottle that are sure to please. The palate shows textural weight expresses a depth of caramelized fruit flavors without being too sweet. Delicious on its own, it will also complement a wide range of dishes. This versatility means you can drink this through the entire day of feasting, or at least until the turkey and football games lull you to sleep.

Categories
Living

The many lives of Neve Hall: In its nearly 100-year history, the new home of Potter’s Craft Cider has seen it all

A few weeks back, I visited Neve Hall, a historic Episcopal chapel and manse on 14 acres in Albemarle County, for the first time. Three miles south of I-64 on U.S. 29, the site reveals classic architecture, old-school craftsmanship, and a profusion of art, and simultaneously shows signs of decay and renewal. The architect of the stone structure was Eugene Bradbury, whose early 20th-century work in Charlottesville includes grand residences and notable churches, like St. Paul’s Memorial Church on University Avenue, opposite the Rotunda. In its almost-hundred year history, Neve Hall has been a mission, a suspected house of ill-repute, a hideaway where kids partied and roller skated indoors, an artist’s studio, and a family home. Its past is linked to a diverse cast that includes Lady Astor, Erskine Caldwell, and Henry “Pop” Lannigan, the namesake of UVA’s Lannigan Field.

Workers peeled back a thick layer of plaster that covered the rustic granite walls, which are 18 inches thick. The South Hall is bathed in light and has working fireplaces and new wood floors. Photo: Stephen Barling

On Saturday, November 16, Neve Hall will begin yet another chapter of its life, when Potter’s Craft Cider introduces the storied property as a tasting room, event space, and future production facility and sculpture garden. Potter’s announced back in January that it would invest $1.65 million, with $100,000 of state and county assistance, to revitalize the building and reshape the grounds. During my visit, the pricey renovation was well underway, including the landscape design by Evan Grimm and Chloe Hawkins of Charlottesville’s Nelson Byrd Woltz.

As I navigated the arcing gravel drive that leads up the hill—a sweeping gesture devised by Grimm and Hawkins to build anticipation—Neve Hall’s bell tower, chapel, and two-story residence successively came into view. I explored inside while workers hammered, sawed, sanded, wired, and laid flooring, rushing to get the place ready for the opening event.

Potter’s co-founder and -owner, Tim Edmond, and Kate Lynn Nemett, the cidery’s general manager, found me gawking inside what’s called South Hall. This is the former residential portion of the structure. It has a soaring, vaulted ceiling, craggy granite walls framing tall windows, two fireplaces, and a timber-framed mezzanine suspended by massive oak beams milled from trees cut down on-site. Sunlight streamed in from the south, a cinematic touch.

“Pretty great, huh?” Nemett said.

“Amazing,” I replied.

“We’ve got a long way to go,” Edmond said. “But we’re really proud and lucky to be in this space.”

We quickly toured the building, passing through the cavernous chapel, crunching down the stone driveway, and then ducking into the woods. I began to notice a few figures, and then more figures, among the greenery. Vines crawled on a life-size rusting iron woman. The waist, buttocks, and legs of a ceramic female figure rested on the ground. Gnome-like creatures and vertical abstractions (their glazed surfaces looked like molten wax) clustered around my ankles.

Prolific sculptor Jim Hagan, a UVA professor and founder of the sculpture and new media concentrations at the university’s McIntire School of Art, lived and created art at Neve Hall from 1963 until his passing in 2008. Photo: Courtesy Hagan family

All of these creations are the work of a dynamo named Jim Hagan, a UVA art professor who lived at Neve Hall with his wife, Erla, and their three children starting in 1963. Hagan established the sculpture and new media concentrations at UVA’s McIntire Department of Art. Before his retirement in 2001, Hagan’s sculptures, all made at Neve Hall, landed in prestigious collections, including at the National Gallery of Art. He was a prodigious worker, curing his ceramics in wood-fired kilns, carving pieces from the fat trunks of trees he felled himself, and cutting human silhouettes from thick metal stock. The latter, painted black, have graced the Downtown Mall since 1981. Edmond told me that three shipping containers of Hagan’s work were removed from the site before the renovation began.

Hagan and his family’s legacy constitutes a significant period of Neve Hall’s 95-year history. That rich past helped to convince Edmond and his business partner, Dan Potter, to invest in its future.

The cidermakers discovered the location through David Atwell, a friend who spent a good part of his childhood at Neve Hall. The co-owner of Greenwood Gourmet Grocery, Atwell was tight with the Hagan kids. Erla herself was a force of nature (her parties at Neve Hall were renowned), and Atwell became like an adopted son to her and Jim. Atwell considered the artist his mentor.

Edmond vividly recalls the first time he explored the building and grounds with Potter and Atwell. “You could feel the spiritual pull,” Edmond says. “That’s partly because of the chapel. But the space is also imbued with the energy of Jim Hagan.”

The mountain people and the missionary

Although the cornerstone of Neve Hall was laid in 1925 and its construction completed sometime in 1926, its history traces back to the end of the Revolutionary War. When the fighting stopped, the so-called mountain people—mostly white but some of Native American descent—took up residence in the Blue Ridge. They farmed and foraged, grew apples to make moonshine, hunted bison and elk—and over time became isolated from the growing population in Charlottesville and other towns. The mountain population peaked in the mid-19th century, and the natural resources people needed to survive fell into decline. After the Civil War, the Blue Ridge and its hardscrabble inhabitants were more or less depleted.

The building’s namesake, Frederick Neve, served as the Episcopal archdeacon of the Blue Ridge. After moving to England to Ivy in 1888, he oversaw the creation of a vast network of schools, churches, medical facilities, and more in his decades-long career dedicated to helping the poor, uneducated “mountain people.”

This is where Neve Hall’s namesake, Frederick Neve, comes in.

Born in England in 1855 and educated at Oxford University, Neve served as an Anglican minister before departing for missionary work in Africa. But he wasn’t up to living there, frequently falling ill, so he answered an ad placed by congregants at St. Paul’s Episcopal Church in Ivy and Emmanuel Episcopal Church in Greenwood, which had a history of employing English clergymen.

“He volunteered for this post when he heard that there was a demand for an English minister and that there was a small population of poor hill farmers living off the land in the Blue Ridge Mountains nearby,” one biographer wrote.

A combined total of 125 parishioners pooled resources to pay Neve $500 a year, and he arrived in Virginia in 1888, at age 33, to start his new job, holding services at the churches in Ivy and Greenwood while at the same time beginning his outreach in the mountains.

Neve was broad-shouldered and stood 6-foot-3 or taller. He had a thick head of hair and a hatchet for a nose. “He was tall and rugged and slightly walleyed,” author Elizabeth Coles Langhorne writes. “The wags of the parish declared that he kept one eye on the congregation and the other on the mountains.”

Neve took to riding his horse, Old Harry, into the hills each day. “He was to bring the outside world to the whole vast and previously inaccessible region of the Blue Ridge,” Coles writes.

Backed by donations from the Episcopal church and a few wealthy local supporters (notably, the Langhornes of Greenwood, whose eight children included Nancy, later Lady Astor), Neve built and lived at the first Blue Ridge mission, St. John the Baptist, in Ivy Depot, where he also became rector.

Nancy Langhorne, later Lady Astor, met Archdeacon Neve when she moved to Ivy at age 13. Neve was also pastor of Emmanuel Episcopal Church, where the Langhorne family attended services. Lady Astor and Neve enjoyed a lifelong friendship, and she contributed generously to support his work.

Neve was not alone in his missionary work, least of all in achieving his goal of having churches and mission houses constructed at 10-mile intervals along the Blue Ridge. Much of this history is set out in Our Mountain Work, the newsletter Neve started publishing in March 1909. By that time nearly 30 missions had been built, and many more would follow.

Neve’s work required all of the strength he could muster. Reaching the mountain settlements on horseback took hours and even days of riding through rough terrain. The living conditions he encountered were dire. If his knock on a cabin door went unanswered, he would push it open, finding horrific scenes inside, “whole families sick and dying of measles, typhoid, tuberculosis, diphtheria, and scarlet fever,” biographer Frances Scruby writes. “The standard remedy for almost any ailment was a sack of onions tied around the neck.”

It’s no wonder that attending to the mountain people—both personally and by building a vast network that provided food, medical care, education, and housing—took a toll on Neve. He retired as rector of St. Pauls in 1923 at age 68, and began spending more time at his spacious home, Kirklea, which had been built next to the church in 1904. Neve remained Archdeacon of the Blue Ridge, but his stepping down marked a significant moment. His congregation gave him a gold watch and a silver vase, but an even greater gift—a lasting tribute to his mission work—was the naming of Neve Hall in his honor. An edition of Our Mountain Work from 1924 shows a pen-and-ink illustration of the building as it was designed by the architect Bradbury. By then, a cornerstone bearing the initials EB had already been set, and after a final push to fund its completion, Neve Hall became the latest Episcopal mission house to open. It was the home of Reverend Dudley Boogher, who lived there for about 20 years, ministering to four churches nearby.

The Astor connection

By that time Nancy Langhorne had become internationally famous as the first woman to be seated in England’s parliament, in 1919. She ran against two men to win the position that her husband, Waldorf Astor, had vacated when he was named 2nd Viscount Astor. As the wife of a count (the two were married from 1906 until his death in 1952), Nancy assumed the title Lady Astor.

The construction of Neve Hall, completed in large part by the mountain people whom the mission served, was under construction for nearly two years before it opened, according to Neve, in 1926. The cornerstone is engraved with the date 1925 and the initials EB, for architect Eugene Bradbury.

Lady Astor had struck up a friendship with Neve as a teenager in Greenwood. She was 13 when her family moved there from Danville, took up residence in Mirador (a grand home that survives to this day), and joined Neve’s congregation at Emmanuel Episcopal Church. Her father was wealthy, having earned a fortune in tobacco trading and railroad construction. After a year of getting to know Neve, young Nancy was impressed by his religious fervor and commitment to helping the mountain people. “From the first I loved and respected him,” she wrote.

The admiration was mutual. Neve saw in the teenager a wisdom beyond her years, and he wanted her to witness his missionary work in person. At age 14, Nancy accompanied him on one of his forays. It was her first exposure to the mountain people but not the last. She and Neve spent much time together. He often stayed at Mirador after conducting services at Emmanuel Episcopal, and he and Nancy shared company at the St. John the Baptist mission. As Nancy entered adulthood, she told a friend, she realized the strength of her bond with Neve. “The Archdeacon became one of my best friends,” she said. “I wrote to him every month for 40 years.”

Neve helped to set the future Lady Astor’s moral compass. As a politician, she pushed for legislation against child labor and established maternity centers and daycare facilities for the children of working women in her constituents’ city of Plymouth, near the Astor estate, Cliveden.

Using chainsaws and chisels, Hagan created wood sculptures from massive tree trunks he harvested and hauled into his studio at Neve Hall. This totem is part of the collection at the National Gallery of Art.

Lady Astor also stridently supported temperance, perhaps because of her experiences in the moonshine-soaked Blue Ridge and her friendship with Neve. She had a full, busy life in England, but Virginia and Neve were always on her mind—and she gave generously, if quietly, to his missionary work.

Ironically, those efforts began to taper off not long after Neve Hall was built. Virginia exercised eminent domain in the late 1920s and early 1930s to acquire 190,000 acres in the Blue Ridge Mountains. In 1936, that land became the Shenandoah National Park, which ultimately displaced about 2,000 people. Neve and the Episcopal Church continued their mission, but suddenly had a much smaller population to serve.

Lady Astor retired from politics in 1945. Three years later, a month before Neve’s death, Lady Astor wrote to him once more, thanking him for the inspiration he had given her as a teenager. “True friendship never fades,” she said.

The dark years

The Reverend Boogher left Neve Hall in the late 1940s, moving to Ivy to become rector of St. Paul’s. Though I was unable to pinpoint when the Episcopal Church closed Neve Hall, it is likely that Boogher was the last resident. The church’s work in the Blue Ridge had fallen into sharp decline after World War II, and in 1953, the archdeaconry was officially dissolved.

Interestingly enough, the next period in Neve Hall’s history begins with Henry “Pop” Lannigan, whose 1930 obituary in The News Leader lauds him as one of the “most noted athletic trainers in the East.” After building the sports program at Cornell University, he continued his career at UVA. Between 1905 and 1929, he racked up a record of 254 wins and 79 losses while coaching the men’s basketball team, and at one point led the Cavaliers to four consecutive NCAA titles. Lannigan also built the track team to national prominence, and the university honored him by naming its track and field facility after him.

Hagan’s sculptures ranged from the figurative to the abstract, and often showed his keen sense of humor. Hundreds of the countless piece he created—ceramic, wood, metal—remain in the woods at Neve Hall. Photo: Courtesy Hagan family

Lannigan’s marriage to his wife, Helen, appears as little more than a footnote in his biography. What is known is that he had a daughter, also named Helen, who met Erskine Caldwell at UVA. Caldwell would become a giant of American literature, and the two married in 1925. They were divorced in 1938, around which time Caldwell, a notorious drinker, had begun an affair with the photographer Margaret Bourke-White. He and Helen had three children, including Erskine Caldwell Jr., known as Pix.

A widow for some years after Pop Lannigan died, Helen moved into Neve Hall. She lived there after Boogher departed, and perhaps even until the beginning of the Korean War, in the 1950s. During this time the house was known simply as “Mrs. Lannigan’s.”

David Atwell’s father, Sam, now 86 and living in Afton, recalls that Neve Hall was not the holy place it had been when the archdeacon had it built. “It was sort of a social place,” Sam Atwell says. “My brother said it was a house of ill-repute. Mrs. Lannigan, she was very smart and well-versed. She didn’t talk about anything.” But there were rumors.

“My brother used to go up there with [friends] who were a bit older than him,” Atwell says. “They were all teenagers or in their early 20s. My brother said there was a big pool there, and a woman used to sit on the edge at one end of the pool, naked. She said that if anyone could swim the length of the pool and back again underwater, she would go to bed with him.”

It’s unclear whether Erskine Caldwell ever spent time at Neve Hall, but he formed an opinion of it. While his wife was being treated for a serious illness in New York, and preparing for surgery, Caldwell visited her and, according to Caldwell biographer Harvey Klevar, discussed where their son Pix should stay while Helen recuperated. Living with the writer was not an option; his affair with Bourke-White had become an open secret and the couple were traveling abroad extensively for work.

“Though the boy was already on the train to Charlottesville,” Klevar writes, “Caldwell complained that Mrs. Lannigan’s was not a ‘fit place’ for Pix, since Mrs. Lannigan ‘allowed drinking in the house.’”

At this point, Klevar writes, Helen turned to her soon-to-be-ex-husband, and said, “Erskine, between drinking and adultery, what have you got to say?”

The Hagans move in

From the latter 1950s until Erla and Jim Hagan moved there in 1963, David Atwell says the house became sort of a community center, where people roller skated on the wood floor of the former chapel, which was marked with shuffleboard courts.

A menagerie that included rabbits, cats, stray dogs, and goats were welcomed into Neve Hall by Hagan’s wife, Erla, whose parties were also renowned.

But it was the Hagans who truly brought Neve Hall back to life. While some sources say it was deconsecrated before the family arrived, the Hagans’ daughter Mara recalls that her parents paid to have it done. “They were not religious people at all,” she says. “When we moved in, I remember they borrowed $500 from someone to take care of that, to help with the deconsecration.”

Jim Hagan’s art quickly became the focal point of the family’s life. Mara recalls that her father’s obsessive creativity—and the time it consumed—sometimes irked his wife. “My mother was a little cross about it,” Mara says. “He would just disappear into the studio, or down a hill to build some big kiln for his ceramics. Things never got really bad, but I think she would rather have had him repairing things around the house.”

Still, Mara says both of her parents brought great vitality to the home—Erla with her constant welcoming of new, stray animals inside, Jim with his sculpting and listening to loud music, and the two of them with their parties, bashes that went deep into the night. “It was quite the scene,” Mara says.

She recalls that she and her siblings, Adam and Sasha, were banished to the second floor for many of the parties. But Adam cut a hole in a rug that covered a vent, and the kids all crowded around it to spy on the adults below.

When asked which memory of Neve Hall stood out the most, Adam Hagan immediately replies, “It was cold!”

The house was extremely inefficient, and in the coldest weather, parts of it were sealed off to make the best use of the wood stoves and fireplaces that heated the place. “The house was always a quirky work in progress,” he says.

While they knew that their father was prolific with his art, they didn’t get a sense of what a big deal he was until the early to mid-1970s. Hagan had solo shows at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts in Richmond  in 1974 and the Zabriskie Gallery in New York in 1975. In 1977, one of his wood sculptures was included in an exhibit at Princeton University, alongside works by Frank Stella and Marcel Duchamp. In time, his works—famously, his ceramic pigs—would begin to show up in impromptu installations at UVA.

Adam Hagan recalls that his father had little regard for the business side of art, and that he made a point of saying that he wanted his work “to rot back into the ground.” But he was the opposite of the brooding artist stereotype. “He always seemed happy when he was creating,” Adam says.

He also had a great sense of humor, both in conversation and in his art, Atwell says. One of his pieces, “Shy Exhibitionist,” was featured at the 1995 International Symposium of Electronic Art, in Montreal. The catalog does not contain an image of the sculpture, but it does offer the artist’s own description of it: “Shy Exhibitionist is a wood-fired ceramic sculpture with sensors, servers and strobes which is active when no one is in close proximity and becomes and dormant when approached. When making it, I thought about possums, crickets and turtles.”

Jim Hagan passed away in 2008. After Erla died, in 2016, friends and family gathered at Neve Hall to commemorate her. When the Hagan children decided to sell the property, Atwell convinced them that Potter’s Craft Cider would be the best new owner. Edmond and Potter bought the property in May 2018.

Both Mara and Adam Hagan say they are thrilled that Potter’s is giving Neve Hall another life. Sasha, for her part, says only that she wants people to know that it was a place full of life and laughter and animals, lots of animals, and that her mother delighted in throwing parties there.

On Saturday, Potter’s will throw yet another party at Neve Hall. There will be live music and food trucks and cider flowing from the taps.

“I’m really psyched about what Potter’s is doing, straight-up,” Adam says. “It was nothing that I or my sisters could have imagined, but David [Atwell] persisted, and he was right. When you live in a place for such a long time, you believe that maybe it’s something you’ll hold onto forever. But now that my parents are gone, it’s like, wait—we can’t carry the burden of maintaining that house. We’re just glad that Neve Hall is something that people will be able to see and share and appreciate. I think Mom and Dad would agree.”

Categories
C-BIZ

Great harvest: A look at the economic impact of area wineries, breweries, cideries, and distilleries

Bordeaux, France. Napa Valley, California. Central Virginia? Possibly. Though Thomas Jefferson first attempted to plant a vineyard back in the late 1700s, our local wine industry is still young, only really emerging in the last 15 years. But in that time, the central Virginia region has become home to the second-highest number of wineries in the state, producing dozens of award-winning vintages each year.

People aren’t just stocking up on bottles. Vineyards are also enjoying the fruits of their labor in the form of agritourism: tourists coming out for the scenery, tastings, events, and tying the knot. It’s clear that our wineries, breweries, cideries, and distilleries are an important part of commerce in this region, but just how big is that economic impact?

VIRGINIA WINE AND AGRITOURISM

In 2015, The Virginia Wine Board estimated the full economic impact of the Virginia wine industry to be $1.37 billion, roughly the GDP of a small island nation. This marked a growth rate of 83 percent from 2010, and breaks down to 705,200 cases sold, 8,218 jobs, and 261 wineries.

Uncorking the official numbers for the City of Charlottesville or Albemarle County is a bit more difficult. The Charlottesville & Albemarle Convention and Visitors Bureau doesn’t currently track that information, though they are hoping to have the budget to conduct that research, and other estimates can vary depending on how you define the region.

David King, the King Family Vineyards’ co-founder who died in May, was instrumental in passage of the Virginia Farm Winery Act, which allows wineries to sell their products directly to consumers. / Photo: Jack Looney

What makes it especially tricky is that we aren’t just talking about the number of bottles sold and weddings hosted. The biggest slice of the economic impact pie comes from agritourism.

The Virginia Wine Board calculated the retail value of Virginia wine sold in 2015 to be $129 million, while winery-related tourism was more than $187 million. It becomes harder to estimate the local economic impact of tourism when you factor in other elements of a trip. Imagine a group of friends decides to come down from Washington, D.C. for a bachelorette party with Cville Hop On Tours. They aren’t just spending money at the area wineries they visit, they are most likely staying in a Charlottesville hotel, eating at Charlottesville restaurants, and shopping in Charlottesville stores during their visit. So even though Charlottesville does not have a winery within its city limits, it’s benefiting from the area wine industry.

By using the Virginia Wine Board report (“The Economic Impact of Wine and Wine Grapes on the State of Virginia – 2015,” produced by certified public accountants Frank, Rimerman + Co. LLP) to take the average number of visitors for each winery in the state, Neil Williamson, President of the Free Enterprise Forum and editor of The Virginia Wine Journal, is able to roughly calculate the impact of the industry in a given region. With 28 wineries, he predicts that the economic impact will be more than $110 million for Albemarle County in 2019.

“Thanks in large part to David King’s [the late co-founder of King Family Vineyards and champion of the local wine industry] contributions on the state and local level, Albemarle today has some of the best winery and winery event regulations in the state,” says Williamson in reference to King’s advocacy for the Virginia Farm Winery Act, which allows wineries to sell their products directly to consumers. “We fought hard to get them to this point.”

MONTICELLO WINE TRAIL

With the City of Charlottesville at its center, the Monticello American Viticultural Area stretches from the edge of Shenandoah National Park to the James River and was was the first AVA to be established in Virginia. The Monticello Wine Trail, which includes a current membership of 35 wineries within this designated grape-growing region, has an economic impact that is probably closer to $120 million a year. Current President George Hodson believes the region is primed to be the next big thing in wine. “When you look at a lot of the things that are happening in Charlottesville, it becomes a perfect place for the industry to thrive.” Hodson cites the area’s academic culture, natural beauty, and the land’s ability to grow amazing grapes as ingredients for the industry’s organic growth.

What makes the Monticello region distinct in the Commonwealth is the consistently high quality of its wines. More than 60 percent of the wines crowned at this year’s Virginia’s Governor’s Cup were from the Monticello AVA. While Monticello Wine Trail wineries have had success with a variety of vintages, Hodson believes that the region’s petit verdot, petit manseng, and red Bordeaux blends have the potential to define it.

The major challenges preventing economic growth for the region come down to supply and demand. Area residents and visitors are drinking everything the wineries are supplying before it can be distributed to new markets. “We’ve got to make enough to let it leave the Charlottesville area,” says Hodson. He hopes that the continued popularity of events like Starry Nights at Veritas Vineyard & Winery and regular polo matches at King Family Vineyards will bring in the revenue needed to allow wineries to plant more grapes and produce more wine.

Support from state and local tourism boards are also critical to ensuring the industry’s ascent. Virginia’s tourism board makes it a priority to funnel visitors to the vineyards by highlighting wineries, festivals, and wine trails in campaigns. Support from local governments can vary quite a bit by county. Advocates for the industry agree that the best outcomes happen when state and local governments proactively work together. The positive economic impact numbers have helped government officials understand the promise of a rosy future in wine.

“We want Charlottesville and the Monticello [American Viticultural Area] to be the first name in Virginia wine,” says Hodson. “We are wholly committed to and doubling down on making Charlottesville and Monticello AVA a renowned wine growing region.”

VIRGINIA BREWERIES, CIDERIES & DISTILLERIES

Spirit Lab Distilling’s Ivar Aass thinks craft spirits will attain a momentum similar to that of area craft beer and wine: “Prohibition throttled the industry for 80 years,” he says, “and we’re finally getting to the point where craft distilling is gaining steam.” / Photo: Eze Amos

The glass isn’t just half-full for wine. Local breweries, cideries, and distilleries all have plenty to toast about, too. The Virginia Brewers Association reported that 405,465 barrels of craft beer were produced in the state in 2017. That’s two gallons for every Virginian over the age of 21. With 236 craft breweries in Virginia creating a total economic impact of $1.37 billion (the same as the 2015 number for wine), that’s an average economic impact of close to $600,000 per craft brewery.

Local breweries have their own version of the wine trail: the Charlottesville Ale Trail is 2.3 miles, pedestrian-friendly, and includes six participating breweries. They’re plotted along a map that visitors are encouraged to get stamped like a passport.

Virginia’s craft beer scene has been cool for a while now, but Virginia cider is catching up and hotter than ever. Bold Rock Hard Cider currently outpaces almost every other local brewery in sales. The Virginia Association of Cider Makers reports marked growth in the number of cideries opened since 2006, with national cider sales growing an average of 73 percent each year.

Boutique distilleries are looking to be the model for what’s next for their industry. Spirit Lab Distilling became the first distillery to open within Charlottesville city limits in 2015, and owner Ivar Aass sees the potential for craft spirits to attain a similar momentum as the local craft beer and wine market.

“I think all distilleries are basically playing catch-up,” says Aass. “Prohibition throttled the industry for 80 years, and we’re finally getting to the point where craft distilling is gaining steam.”

Just as we saw with craft beer, Aass predicts that the trends in distilling will favor unique, high-quality, and historically-rooted products. He also sees a future in Virginia-made brandy after recently collaborating with local winemakers on a Virginia oak-aged vintage by distilling some of the 2018 grapes that were too sweet for traditional wine processing.

So whether you like to sip, swig, or savor your locally produced spirit of choice, you can be guaranteed to see more varieties and an improved quality in the next few years. And if you haven’t yet been invited to a wedding at a farm or barn where something boozy is made, you can expect that “save the date” to come any day now. Beverage-related agritourism in central Virginia is booming. We can all cheers to that.

WEATHER OR NOT

Winemakers are learning and experimenting with new ways to adapt to the forces of climate change so central Virginia’s wine industry can continue to grow. / Photo: Andrea Hubbell

The summer of 2017 was a gift for wine grapes. The arid days were the source of complex vintages with the kind of balance winemakers aspire to produce. Then vineyards had to deal with the wet summer of 2018, when too much rain too close to harvest encouraged mold and caused the grapes to swell with water, diluting flavors. Increasingly erratic seasons due to climate change mean that if the burgeoning Central Virginia wine industry is going to survive, winemakers need to find new ways to adapt.

“When you plant a grapevine, you want it to [last for] decades, so depending on how quickly things change, it can affect what you’re doing,” says Ben Jordan, who has been the winemaker at Early Mountain Vineyards since 2015. Grapes can be a fickle fruit. And considering it can take three to five years for a vine to produce anything usable for winemaking, planting decisions are fraught. By that time, and especially with climate change, you may no longer have the right grape in the right site. “On top of that, we’ve always had a relatively dynamic climate,” says Jordan. “We can have droughts, we can have 2017, which was dry and hot, or we can have 2018, which is kind of a washout.”

For local winemakers, being in an emerging industry could be a protective factor when dealing with climate change. Unlike European regions, vineyards in central Virginia are not tied to producing certain wines or trademark processes that haven’t changed in 200 years.

The Winemakers Research Exchange, a local research cooperative for wineries, is encouraging experimentation and knowledge-sharing through studies and sensory sessions. Winemakers can invite their peers to try the unfinished results of everything from whole cluster fermentation to wines aged in concrete eggs. Joy Ting, research enologist and exchange coordinator for the WRE, believes the region’s ingenuity is a good thing when it comes to acclimating to seasonal swings. “It does help us to have more options when we think about how to respond to those things,” she says.

When your seasons become unpredictable, it’s not a bad idea for your wines to be too. “The world is changing,” says Jordan, “and you don’t have to make wines that taste one way or grow grapes the same way.” Central Virginia winemakers are integrating modern science in their old world craft. They are looking at how different clones of cabernet franc behave in the vineyard to decide what to plant for the next 10-15 years, and experimenting with breeding to try to make merlot more resistant to mildew.

Ting says that while the WRE isn’t set up for long-term experiments (most of the studies are designed to look at one year at a time), it’s an opportunity for winemakers to get creative with testing interventions. By learning new techniques for different scenarios, winemakers can be more prepared for whatever Mother Nature throws at them.

In 2018, several members of the WRE had success with one grape in particular: the petit manseng. Described as a “storm grape” that can take on loads of rainfall, it’s becoming a popular choice for local vineyards in need of a stable crop. “More and more people are looking to petit manseng because it does seem to have a good, consistent expression,” says Ting.

Petit manseng, a French grape typically used to make white wines, can be used to make dry wines, off-whites, and dessert wines. Local residents may not be as familiar with it as they are with a vognier or a petit verdot, but as the manseng grows more popular with winemakers, it has the potential to define the central Virginia region. “It’s something that can be really useful in our industry, and can help us stand out in the country and the world,” says Jordan. “It’s a distinctive grape that makes distinctive wine.”

Tony Wolf, professor and director of viticulture at Virginia Tech, started evaluating petit manseng in 1987. He concluded the grape would have an excellent time adapting to the Mid-Atlantic’s climate due to its hardiness against cold and rot, and consistent yields of crops per vine.

“Disease resistance is high on the list of desired traits,” says Wolf in regards to petit manseng. “But we are also going to need to evaluate new (and old) varieties that are suited to higher temperatures and higher rainfall conditions.”

Critics are taking note. This year was the first year a petit manseng won the top prize at the Virginia Governor’s Cup. The 2016 vintage produced by Horton Vineyards in Orange County was lauded for its dry palate and full body with notes of stone fruit and hazelnut.

Jordan is so confident in the grape that he recently ripped out a site of cabernet sauvignon grapes, vines that were planted with generations in mind, to plant the manseng in their place. “That’s part of adjusting to these changing factors,” says Jordan. “It’s about understanding a piece of land in context to its climate as opposed to just what you like to drink.”

CHANGE AGENTS

Beverage leaders are disruptors by nature. Their willingness to take risks when it comes to flavors and production can often lead them to delicious places—and profits. Several have made big changes in the last year.

Potter’s Craft Cider

Potter’s Craft Cider, which currently operates a 128-acre cidery in Free Union, is expanding, adding a 100-year-old church on approximately 20 acres in Albemarle County. The move comes thanks in part to a $1.56 million injection of funds from the state. This development will allow Potter’s Craft Cider to establish a much-anticipated tasting room, and is expected to quadruple its cider production. Governor Ralph Northam announced the investment in January and cited agritourism as a valuable source of income for rural areas. Renovations to the church will take place over the next three years while the team establishes an on-site apple orchard.

Wild Wolf Brewing Company

“Charlottesville has really become a mecca for great beer,” says Mary Wolf of Wild Wolf Brewing Company, which recently opened another location near the Downtown Mall. / Photo: Sanjay Suchak

The Wolf is also on the move. Wild Wolf Brewing Company, based in Nelson County, recently opened a satellite location near Charlottesville’s Downtown Mall. Owner Mary Wolf said she fell in love with the location two years ago and had been thinking about it ever since. When it became available again this year, the company grabbed it.

She knew it was important to have a location within city limits. “Charlottesville has really become a mecca for great beer,” says Wolf. She attributes the city’s thriving industry to the mix of talented brewers who embrace innovation and a population full of young professionals who are willing to try new things.

While Wolf says she might consider opening other locations in the future, she’s not interested in becoming huge. “We’re focused on quality—on great food and beer.”

North American Sake Brewery

North American Sake Brewery may be the most unexpected newcomer to the city. The first craft sake brewery in the commonwealth opened at IX Art Park last year, and started distributing in Virginia last March. Co-owners Jeremy Goldstein and Andrew Centofante, a filmmaker and a web developer, respectively, are a self-described “unlikely [saki] duo,” but they put all of their passion for sake into the products they make. They managed to catch the attention of the Embassy of Japan and were invited to pour their own sake at a reception in D.C. this June.

 

Categories
Living

Winter pairing: wine and fire

Whether it’s bitterly cold or just damp and dreary, one of the best places to wait out winter is beside a roaring fire (preferably with a glass of wine). Luckily, plenty of area wineries fit the bill, with cozy couches and toasty fireplaces to sit beside while you sip.

“We go for a living-room kind of feel in our tasting room,” says Paul Summers, owner of Knight’s Gambit Vineyard. “It’s homey and comfortable, and the fireplace no doubt adds to that.” So does the resident hound, Fig, who often lounges on a sofa near the fire.

The tasting room at Septenary Winery also feels like a living room, with four chairs by the hearth. A two-sided fireplace warms up the cavernous public room at Barboursville Vineyards, cranking out heat for visitors seated at tables on one side and patrons at the tasting bar on the other. At Veritas Vineyard & Winery, the most coveted tasting room seats are the overstuffed leather sofa and chairs near the fireplace.

At King Family Vineyards, a big fieldstone hearth anchors the winery’s Pavilion—and draws a crowd. When the oak logs are crackling, fragrant smoke fills the air and a beer-hall vibe prevails, with patrons engaged in animated conversation at the Pavilion’s long wood tables. “It’s very relaxing and warm, like sitting in someone’s great room,” says King Family’s events coordinator, Kelly Bauer. —J.B.

More kudos for BBQ Exchange

Recently recognized by the Food Network for one of the best BBQ pork sandwiches in America, The Barbeque Exchange, in Gordonsville, has been nominated by the USA Today 10Best for Best Brunswick Stew in Virginia. An expert panel selected the nominees, and readers will choose a winner (to be announced March 8) by voting on the 10Best website. —Simon Davidson

Greens (and more) cook-off

Calling all cooks and fans of good home cooking: The African American Heritage Center’s fifth annual Greens Cook Off takes place from 3-5pm February 9 at the Jefferson School. Greens, macaroni and cheese, and pound cake will be judged; visitors can graze on the entries and vote for their favorites. Learn more at jeffschoolheritagecenter.org. —S.D.

Cheese, chocolate, and champagne for lovers

On Valentine’s Day, the holy trinity of cheese, chocolate, and champagne will converge at Oakhart Social. Righteous Cheese’s Carolyn Stromberg Leasure and cheesemonger Sara Adduci, formerly of Feast!, will open four rare-producer champagnes and give instruction on pairing bubbly with cheese. A spread of local chocolates will also be available, because…Valentine’s Day! For tickets and info search Chocolate, Cheese & Baller Bubbly at eventbrite.com —S.D.

Ladies get their Galentine’s on

It started with Leslie Knope, Amy Pohler’s character on the TV sitcom “Parks and Recreation,” but craft distiller Vitae Spirits is carrying on the tradition of Galentine’s Day with its second annual party, at 5pm February 7. As Leslie said, it’s all about “ladies celebrating ladies.” Vitae’s version will feature a pop-up shop—along with booze, of course—with products from women-owned businesses. A portion of the proceeds will benefit the Sexual Assault Resource Agency. —Jenny Gardiner

Super cidery

Potter’s Craft Cider—with a little help from Virginia’s taxpayers—is growing. Potter’s will invest $1.68 million to quadruple its production and refurbish Neve Hall, a former church built in 1924, as a tasting room. The project gets a boost from a $50,000 grant from the commonwealth’s Agriculture and Forestry Industries Development Fund, and matching funds from Albemarle County. —J.B.

Duner’s chef to become owner

Duner’s executive chef Laura Fonner has announced she’ll be acquiring the upscale Ivy restaurant from current owner Bob Caldwell after his retirement next year. “It’s a natural move for me,” says Fonner, who has worked at Duner’s for 15 years. —J.G.

Categories
Living

Cider insider: Hard apple purveyors are juicing with unique ingredients

Cider is a traditionally straightforward beverage—whether it’s the soft stuff or the hard stuff, cider is made with apples and not much else.

Tell that to today’s local hard cider makers.

From spices to berries to citrus to hops, all sorts of adjuncts are showing up in cider these days. And much as craft beer drinkers can’t get enough of brews with wacky ingredients (Oreos and fried chicken f’real?), cider sippers are getting into the unusual too.

Locally, Andy Hannas, Tim Edmond, and Dan Potter are leading the charge at Potter’s Craft Cider.

“Tim, Dan and I all used to brew beer at home before we started making cider, and they were looking at starting a brewery before they wound up in the cider world,” Hannas says. “That was definitely a big source of inspiration early on. Hopped cider was the third product we made. They had a lot of beer ideas they were kicking around, and I had things in mind from my homebrewing days, so we started experimenting.”

With Virginia Cider Week set to flow November 9-18, start priming your palate with these three unique hard cider offerings.

Dirt Napple

The latest fruit of Potter’s experiments is a collaboration with cult favorite The Veil Brewing Co. Working with The Veil’s Dirt Nap Double IPA as a baseline, the team hit Dirt Napple with Citra, Mosaic, Galaxy and Nelson Sauvin hops before finishing it with lactose sugar, which doesn’t turn to alcohol in the presence of yeast. The result is a cider with some residual sugar (nearly all of Potter’s ciders are dry) and a New England IPA-like mouthfeel.

“It is obviously much different from the beer it was modeled after, but it was interesting to try one of our ciders and add some sugar,” Hannas says. “It is by no means a sweet cider like a lot of others out there, but to have something that finished not quite so dry was interesting. And it changed the way the hops expressed.”

The 6.9 percent ABV cider is still available in four packs at the Potter’s tasting room, though supply is dwindling. If you can’t grab one, be on the lookout for kegs around town as Virginia Cider Week approaches.

Big Pippin

Castle Hill Cider keeps it super traditional—except when it comes to Big Pippin. This sister line of ciders features four varieties: ginger and oaked spirits, hopped ginger, elderberry and cherry, and prickly pear and orange blossom. The beverages range from 6.9 to 11 percent alcohol and will be hitting shelves in 12-ounce cans by December, according to cider maker and orchard manager Stuart Madany.

“Adjunct ciders are generally at a lower price point and higher volume,” he says. “They’re made of what I’d call the better apples that are not cider specific—jonathans, yorks, pink ladies, and golden delicious.”

Blood Orange Cider

Bold Rock Hard Cider doesn’t hide its ambitions—namely, to make relatively sweet, drinkable cider for the masses. But that also means the cidery is willing to put just about anything into a hard beverage if it’ll attract a new fan or two.

Take Bold Rock’s Blood Orange cider, which blends blood orange juice and locally harvested Blue Ridge apples. The naturally hazy beverage, sitting at an easy drinking 4.7 percent ABV, combines the crisp tartness of cider with a zip of the trendiest citrus on the market. Blood Orange Cider is available in 12-ounce bottles at a variety of stores around Charlottesville, so cider lovers can get to sippin’ ASAP.

Categories
Living

LIVING Picks: Week of December 13-19

FAMILY

Mrs. Claus Invites
Wednesday, December 13

Mrs. Claus and her friends invite kids of all ages to enjoy singing, storytelling, craftmaking and more. Advance tickets required. $10, 4-6pm. Omni Hotel Charlottesville, 212 Ridge McIntire Rd. virginiagingerbreadchristmas.com

NONPROFIT

Bengali cooking class fundraiser
Saturday, December 16

Mahabuba Akhter demonstrates how to prepare authentic Bengali dishes from scratch, and participants will share the dishes they prepare together. $20, noon-2pm. The Haven, 112 Market St. thehaven.org/bengali_cooking_class

HEALTH & WELLNESS

Swimming with Santa
Saturday, December 16

After children participate in holiday cookie decorating and arts and crafts, they can enjoy some swim time with Santa Claus. Dinner and a photo with Santa is included in the price; RSVP required. $15 members; $25 nonmembers, 5-8pm. Brooks Family YMCA, 151 McIntire Park Drive. 974-9622.

FOOD & DRINK

Potter’s Craft Cider wassail
Saturday, December 16

Join in the wassailing fun, which traditionally involves singing songs and imbibing hot mulled cider, to ensure a good apple harvest the following year. Potter’s will offer 10 ciders on tap as well as a hot, spiced, fortified cider. Free entry, noon-7pm. Potter’s Craft Cider, 4699 Catterton Rd., Free Union. potterscraftcider.com

Categories
News

Revamped regulations: County hears proposed wedding ordinance

At a heavily attended June work session, which C-VILLE referred to as a “war on weddings,” the Albemarle County Board of Supervisors and planning commissioners discussed proposed regulations for events at farm wineries, breweries, cideries and distilleries. Though the county’s Planning Commission has yet to vote on these changes, the topic was debated at its September 13 meeting. And, once again, plenty of concerned citizens showed up primed for battle.

Senior planner Mandy Burbage presented the staff report, which followed up on several topics from June, such as a traffic management plan for events with more than 200 people, a curfew for outdoor amplified music, a one-time neighbor notification at the time of the zoning clearance and a minimum road standard for event eligibility.

Burbage says the latter was the “stickiest.”

Though several residents spoke out about the dangers of increased traffic on the county’s narrow, winding roads, on which these farms are often nestled, Burbage says staff can’t enforce any regulations without proof of a substantial impact on public health and welfare.

Through an analysis by the Albemarle County Police Department, staff has concluded that there’s no correlation between traffic accidents and events at those types of venues. So, according to Burbage, a minimum road standard is no longer on the table.

Monique Pritchard, who lives in the White Hall district, was the first to speak at the meeting. And she’s not buying that traffic from weddings and other events doesn’t pose a threat.

“Allowing event-goers or winery patrons to drive our back roads is a significant safety hazard for everyone involved,” she said.

Amplified music is another problem, she said. “I cannot think of a greater nuisance than blaring music at all hours of the day from an alleged winery next door.”

Bill Pritchard, speaking next, didn’t mince words: “Wineries don’t need outdoor amplified music to grow grapes.”

Staff recommended cutting the amplified music at 10pm for events, but after some discussion with the commissioners, they decided on an 11pm curfew.

At the previous meeting, several industry professionals talked about how their jobs depend on Charlottesville and Albemarle being a destination wedding hub, and some farm representatives said they use their spaces as event venues to help make ends meet. Potter’s Craft Cider-maker Tim Edmond spoke about the concept of grandfathering at the most recent meeting.

Potter’s, in Free Union, doesn’t yet have a tasting room or a space to host events, but that doesn’t mean its owners aren’t planning to in the future.

“We don’t want the rules to change in the middle of the game,” he said. “We don’t want to have to change what we’re doing.”

The proposed ordinance requires farms that host events to grow five acres of the crop that goes into their product, as well as ferment and bottle onsite, and have a tasting room with regular hours.

The next public hearing on the topic is set for November 1.