Author: robert-boucheron

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REW House & Home: Passive Solar

Passive solar design of houses attempts to capture sunlight in winter and reject it in summer. The idea is to use solar energy to reduce heating and lighting costs, and to use natural ventilation for cooling.

 
“In Virginia, the climate imposes roughly equal loads for both heating and cooling,” says Charlottesville architect Andrew Thomas, “with a slightly greater need for heating. In both conditions, the structure must be well-insulated and sealed, with control of moisture.” 
 
Thomas built a group of six houses on Druid Avenue in 2007, a “pocket neighborhood” with attention to passive solar collection, interior air quality, and rainwater management. Sited on the brow of a hill, the houses also offer sweeping views to the south.
 
In the realm of technology, passive solar is as old as the art of building, and as up-to-date as computer modeling. It avoids mechanical and electrical devices. It relies instead on orientation, choice of materials, and a certain amount of adjusting by hand. What are some typical examples of passive solar design? Can you apply them to your home?
 
The first principle is to know the local climate, including the latitude, which determines sun angle. What is the average temperature range, and what are the extremes? How many days of sunshine does your site receive in a year? How many inches of rainfall? What direction is the prevailing wind? Standard design books contain reference charts and climate maps, and the United States government provides weather and climate data online. You can also learn a good deal by asking long-time residents, and by observing local building customs. Here, for example, the wind blows mainly from the west. Generous porches and roof overhangs hint at strong sun and storms.
 
Since we are in the northern hemisphere, we orient glass area and whole buildings toward the south to collect sunlight. In choosing a site, be sure it is not shaded by adjacent properties, and that it allows for living areas to be located on the south side. East and west exposures receive morning and evening sun respectively, but they are less significant. Deciduous trees are ideal for passive solar, since they shade the summer sun and allow the winter sun to pass through bare branches.
 
Once sunlight enters the structure, it must be absorbed to generate heat. Walls and floors are designed to have “thermal mass,” such as concrete or stone, which stores then radiates the heat. In desert climates with wide temperature swings from day to night, the thermal mass of adobe, for example, takes in heat during the day and releases it during the night. In Virginia, a well-insulated “envelope” or exterior is combined with carefully positioned glass. Shading devices can include roof overhangs, louvers above windows, and old-fashioned wood shutters and fabric awnings. The point is to shade the sun outside, not with blinds in the living space.
 
Insulation and sealing, which reduces air leaks, go a long way to reducing the need for heating and cooling. A “superinsulated” house uses so little energy that most of it can be supplied by the sun, appliances, a stove and the inhabitants. The German Passive House Institute was founded in 1990 in Darmstadt to promote this type of design.
 
Barbara Gehrung is a Charlottesville architect trained in solar and sustainable design. A native of Stuttgart, she grew up in a family that saved resources and helped found the German Green Party. As a child, she remembers the Chernobyl disaster of 1986, which spurred the drive for renewable energy. She was on German and American teams in the Solar Decathlon in 2005 and 2007. In 2010, she was certified as a passive house consultant. 
 
“The standards grew from superinsulated houses in Canada in the 1970s,” she says. “First, invest construction money in the building envelope, of which windows are the most expensive part. Smaller house size and a low ratio of surface to volume help energy performance too.”
 
Passive solar also has roots in Scandinavia. In a recent project at Lake Monticello, John and Patricia Platt added a sun room to a Trelleborg house. Trelleborg is a Danish company founded 40 years ago to produce superinsulated wood frame houses. Built in 1985, the Platt house was imported from Denmark. The original house, with a tile roof and dormers, looks like a cottage and uses very little energy. Designed by the author, the new sun room is a double-height space with large south windows, which overlook the lake. The builder was Dennis Kidd, of DAK Construction in Palmyra.
 
Retrofit in the form of an addition is the most practical way to add passive solar. Contrary to what you might think, skylights are not recommended. They lead to overheating, and the brightness is difficult to control. A high, north-facing window is better for daylight and whole-house ventilation. 
 
Robert Boucheron is an architect in Charlottesville. He is drawing a passive solar house for a lot in the city.
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Backyard Playgrounds

School will soon be out for summer and children will need something to keep them busy– preferably something out from underfoot. You can tell them to “Go out and play,” get back to potting orchids or code encryption, and hope for the best. If you live in a garden apartment complex or a city neighborhood, there may be a playground nearby; or an elementary school may be within walking distance, with its jungle gym, baseball field and nature trail. But if you live in the far reaches of suburbia, the young ones may look at you in disbelief and say “There’s nothing to do.”

 
What about a backyard playground? Spend as little or as much money as you like. A rope swing tied to a sturdy tree branch costs almost nothing. It will inspire hazy, golden memories for a lifetime. An Enchanted Castle or Wild West Fort built of scrap lumber is good for climbing, crawling, besieging and shooting with rubber-tipped arrows. A do-it-yourself weekend project, it will require tools and planning, and a well-stocked storage shed or a knack for scrounging. A sandbox can be as simple as four boards staked to the ground, a load of clean sand and a referee whistle. Badminton, volleyball, croquet, quoits, lawn bowling—they’re all good, available at a yard sale or your own basement, and easy to set up.
 
If you feel compelled to build something, check out the big box stores. Strangely, Toys R Us did not have any outdoor play gear when I visited the Charlottesville store. Kmart, Roses and Southern States also came up empty. At Wal-Mart, I hit paydirt. Metal swingsets, giant turtle sandboxes, plastic slides, inflatable buildings, wooden climbing contraptions, above-ground pools—they have it all. Some assembly is required, or maybe hours of grueling labor. Follow directions, and lay in a supply of cold beer.
 
Handy or ham-fisted, you can also go shopping online. Sears and Lowe’s sell playground equipment through their websites. You place an order and then go to the nearest store to pick up, or you can have it delivered to your home. Lowe’s also has a color brochure of the wood and plastic Heartland Premium Playsets, and they can arrange installation. Playworld Systems provides playground and recreation products to schools and parks, and presumably to parents. Play Mart claims to be “the leader in recycled plastic play systems.”
 
You will need a dry, level area large enough for the play structure and clearance all around. One manufacturer specifies a maximum of two percent grade. Since your new playground will be a magnet for neighbor kids, you will also need a policy, and not just the insurance type. When can they use it? If never, you may need a fence to secure the perimeter. Speaking of which, is the playground visible from inside the house? If your children are very young, uncoordinated, defenseless, or simply maladroit, adult supervision is a good idea.
 
Tim Reese of Bella Terra Landscape in Palmyra, Virginia has limited experience installing playgrounds. Still, he echoes the need for “a level area and visibility, e.g. from the kitchen sink.” Safety is another concern. “Anchor a swingset in the ground to prevent tipping, and bolt posts, beams and monkey bars together to withstand rough play. Cross braces help.” What happens to metal exposed to the hot sun all day? Shield it from skin contact to avoid burns.
 
“The backyard playground need not look like a penal colony,” Reese adds. “It can be integrated into your landscape, with shade trees, attractive fencing, a bench, and maybe a water feature.” Maybe not—very young children find water both irresistible and lethal. If grass is not possible, you can lay some soft material under a play structure, such as wood chips, mulch or resilient mats. Shredded rubber tires and gravel are not recommended. Bare dirt is the default material, of course, and sometimes just fine.
 
The Hope of Tomorrow will romp outside for hours and hours, day after day. Vigorous and active, away from electronic devices, they will avoid the plague of childhood obesity. In the fresh air and sunshine, their skin will make vitamin D, which along with exercise builds bone and muscle. They will absorb the Newtonian laws of physics through their bodies in motion. Think of the classic seesaw or teeter-totter, and what it teaches about levers, rotation, mass, and the force of gravity. As they take turns, give pushes, and plot amphibious assaults, children will learn the social arts of cooperation and sharing. The health benefits and educational value of the outdoor playground are screamingly obvious.
Try telling that to kids. All they care about is fun.
 
Robert Boucheron is an architect in Charlottesville. He likes to watch children play—from a distance.
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The Basement

When it comes to house design, there are few regional styles today. Much the same type of house is built across the United States and Canada.  One distinction is the cellar or basement. In states like Florida and Texas, a house is often built on a slab or crawl space. In Massachusetts and Minnesota, a house without a basement is unthinkable.

In Virginia, opinion is divided. High rainfall, groundwater and summer humidity have traditionally made our basements damp, if not dripping. Historic houses sometimes have basements, but they were used for storage, cooking by servants, or a furnace and coal bin, not as family living space. A ventilated crawl space was considered adequate until the late twentieth century. Then the use of excavating equipment instead of shovels, and block and concrete instead of brick made basements more common. Residents moving here from the north expected a basement, and home builders met the market demand.
 
If you are building a new house or an addition, what are the pros and cons of a basement? Expense is one, especially if the soil is loose and unstable, or if it contains rock. The first condition requires shoring and possibly some structural help such as piles or reinforcing. Rock is costly to remove and may require blasting. Any soil taken off site is another expense. Most projects try to balance cut and fill within a site.
 
Waterproofing is a must for a basement in Virginia. In new construction, provide drains at the base of foundations and in the concrete slab floor. Design the foundation to prevent cracks, which will let groundwater seep in, and coat the outside of the walls with a waterproof material. This is generally some kind of tar, asphalt, or bitumen, which has been used for this purpose for thousands of years. Installers today place a protection board like rigid insulation against the waterproofing. A newer system is flexible sheet waterproofing, a rubbery membrane with sealed joints, again with a foundation drain.
 
Does a basement add value to a home? According to Wes Carr, a REALTOR® with Bill May Realty, that depends. In addition to selling houses, he evaluates foreclosed properties for Bank of America. “A basement that is completely below grade, finished or unfinished, adds little value,” he says. “Moisture is a big issue, with related musty smells and mold. A low ceiling and lack of windows also detract. If basement space is finished, it should be high quality, not a Harry Homeowner job. The best type is a walk-out basement, where the rear or side is fully exposed. Unfinished space is useful for storage, a workshop, laundry or recreation.”
 
Should you plan a basement for future finished space? New homes often have this option, as it appeals to buyers. Adequate ceiling height, a plumbing rough-in for a bath, windows as grade allows, and good stair access will help, and the added expense is low. Marketing plans may show a proposed layout, an economical way to expand later. 
 
What about finishing a basement in an existing house? If it is damp, interior waterproofing systems are of limited effectiveness. They can be overwhelmed by heavy rain, and they do not address the source of the groundwater. Carr advises against wall panels and suspended ceilings. “If there’s a problem, you want to see it, not cover it up.” He notes that lack of natural light and headroom are disadvantages that cannot be decorated away.
 
If you want to add a bedroom, be aware that the building code requires fresh air and sunlight, as well as a fire exit. In practice, this means a large window. A basement apartment could be a source of income or a home for a relative. In that case, check if zoning allows more than one dwelling unit on the property. A place for children to play and make noise, one that can get messy, appeals to some parents. Others worry that they cannot supervise their children in the basement.
 
Existing columns, girders, ducts, a furnace, a hot water tank, and other necessary things can seriously hamper a new layout. Providing electricity, plumbing, heating and cooling can also be difficult. A concrete slab is good for keeping out rodents and providing a firm floor. But if it needs leveling, or if you want to cut it for a drain, it adds to the expense. Despite all these issues, attractive basement spaces are created all the time. 
 
Is a basement garage a good idea? It can be a smart way to use a sloping or tight lot, and it is certainly cheaper than building a garage. “If you are of a certain age,” Carr says, “walking upstairs every time you park, lugging a sack of groceries is not so good. To thine own self be true.”  
 
Robert Boucheron is an architect in Charlottesville. He draws houses, additions, and basement remodeling projects.
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Permaculture Primer

Permaculture is a contraction of “permanent” and “agriculture.” Instead of using artificial fertilizer, herbicides and pesticides, instead of watering and irrigation, instead of planting in straight lines and single species, permaculture uses natural techniques to grow food and conserve resources like soil and water. It is organic gardening taken to the next level.

In the 1970s, Bill Mollison and David Holmgren studied ecosystems in Australia to create sustainable farms and gardens. Their research resulted in the encyclopedic Permaculture: A Designer’s Manual (Tagari, 1988) followed by shorter introductory books.
 
Mollison and Holmgren’s idea caught on and expanded. Permaculture is now practiced all over the world. Books and magazines have proliferated, too, with related movements in urban agriculture and local food. Here in the United States, a popular book is Gaia’s Garden: A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture, by Toby Hemenway (Chelsea Green, 2009).
 
 Although grounded in scientific observation, much of permaculture consists of common sense, simple how-to directions, and the idea that gardening should be a rewarding activity, not a chore. The natural approach also means less expense and use of chemicals. Take pest control as an example. In his first chapter, Hemenway says: “In a balanced landscape, diseases and insect problems rarely get out of control. That’s because in the diverse, many-specied garden each insect, fungus, bacterium, or potentially invasive plant is surrounded by a natural web of checks and balances. If one species becomes too abundant, its sheer availability makes it a tasty, irresistible food source for something else.”
 
Hemenway describes his experience with voracious deer in Oregon, and how he created a “deer-deflecting food hedge.” He returns to the topic later, after he has moved to Oakland, CA, and describes how he planted a hedge of Maximilian sunflowers as a barrier. The spiky stems repel deer, while the plants yield edible seeds and shoots. What’s more, they grow in red clay and resist drought.
 
The sunflowers are typical of the permaculture approach. The plants perform several functions: they are pretty to look at; they are adapted to their environment; and they require little work. Right after this passage, Hemenway describes another multipurpose species, goumi, a relative of Russian olive. This shrub yields cream colored flowers and nutritious red berries, is drought-resistant, and is one of the rare shrubs to have nitrogen-fixing nodules on its roots. And these are only two of the many plant species he extols, from bamboo to stinging nettles.
 
One chapter deals with soil—what is in it, how to cultivate it, and how to build soil over time. Healthy soil is alive with humus, organisms, roots, fungi, insect larvae, microscopic worms called nematodes, and the more familiar earthworms.  Mulch is a gardening standby, but permaculture has an interesting take on it. A layer of mulch inhibits the growth of weeds, as it decays and adds organic matter to soil. But the process of decay uses energy and water. In some cases, planting a ground cover provides more benefits than mulch. Even tilling comes into question in a section called “To Till or Not to Till.” Hemenway shuns mechanical methods of turning soil in favor of natural processes.
 
Another chapter deals with water—how to capture it, divert it, save it, and use it both to grow plants and to create ponds. Much of this discussion applies to a dry climate like Australia or California.  Permaculture encourages swales to slow down and direct rainwater. Collect runoff from roofs and paved surfaces, and use graywater from the home to water garden plants. Storage tanks are described, and construction details for pools and ponds. These water features can be functional as well as ornamental. Ponds can be used to store water, biofilter it, and provide a habitat for fish, birds, and aquatic plants.
 
Of the innovative methods used in permaculture, companion planting or “garden guilds” deserve mention. Based on the observation that certain plant species often occur together in the wild, this method mixes things up in a way that benefits each species. A guild is a way to boost the productivity of a small plot, increase diversity, provide a habitat for birds, and raise more food. An example is the Native American “three sisters” of corn, pole beans and squash.
 
Locally, a group called Blue Ridge Permaculture Network gives classes and workshops. Their website includes a blog which acts as an information exchange for anyone interested in the practices of permaculture. BRPN is headed by Christine Gyovai and Terry “Tiger” Lilley.
Pierre Constans experiments on his farm in Nelson County. When he lived in Santa Barbara, CA, Constans educated the public in the virtues of compost, worms, and straw bale construction. Today, he grafts and grows fruit trees, berry bushes and vines, and he cultivates a “wheel” of salad greens and vegetables, with compost at the hub. 
 
Robert Boucheron is a Charlottesville-based architect.
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The New Kitchen Garden

The kitchen garden is making a comeback. There are farmers’ markets in every Virginia town, farm subscription plans (also called CSA), produce delivery services like Relay Foods, and community gardens like the ones at Friendship Court and West Street in Charlottesville. The local food movement is lively. What could be more local than your own back yard?

 
Or your front yard, if you live on Graves Street near the Belmont Bridge. Several residents here have planted streetside with cabbage, broccoli, asparagus, beets, raspberries and fruit trees. The vegetables coexist with box and privet hedges, roses and beds of iris. Ivette Soler wrote a book about this practice, The Edible Front Yard (Timber Press, 2011). Soler is a garden designer and writer in Los Angeles with a blog called Germinatrix. Her message is that with a little artistic help, veggies can have curb appeal.
 
With variations, the message crops up everywhere these days. While it overlaps with the city farm movement, also called urban agriculture, the new kitchen garden aims to look as good as it tastes. The English cottage garden and the French potager are models. They include fragrant herbs and colorful flowers along with vegetables for the pot. Food plants mingle with ornamentals, and some plants are both. The yard is both productive and a place to play, and refresh the senses.
 
Kitchen Gardens of France, by Louisa Jones (Thames & Hudson, 1997) is a beautifully illustrated book with color photographs. A more recent English take is The Kitchen Garden, by Alan Buckingham (DK, 2009). If you prefer a book specifically addressed to Americans, look at Designing the New Kitchen Garden: an American Potager Handbook, by Jennifer Bartley (Timber Press, 2006). Or browse the magazine rack. Garden magazines are bursting with how-to articles that mix leaf lettuce and lavender, rosemary and roses.
 
 Even a small plot of ground can yield a healthy dividend, so long as it gets several hours of sun each day. Plant species vary in their needs, so check labels and garden guides. At least four hours of direct sun are recommended. You may need to improve the soil, loosen packed clay, add humus or compost, or correct for too much acid or alkali, measured as pH. Some urban reclamation schemes involve breaking up asphalt or concrete to get access to the soil.
 
 Make sure that rainwater drains properly. Some plants are sensitive to overly wet or dry roots. They rot or harbor fungus in the wet condition. Sandy soil that drains too quickly has the opposite drawback, and growth slows for lack of water. The raised bed is a way to ensure drainage, and incidentally make working in the garden easier. Depending on the neighborhood, you may need a fence to keep out visitors, both the four-legged kind and your fellow citizens.
 
Older garden guides show neat rows of squash, beans, potatoes, corn and peas surrounded by bare earth. They need constant weeding, spraying and watering, and such “monoculture” is now considered less healthy than “biodiversity.” Besides, the industrial aesthetic is passé. The new kitchen garden is informal, arranged to make the best use of small plots, and create landscape effects in limited space. Permaculture encourages you to combine species, use natural means of controlling pests, and use less water. Low maintenance is the goal. The keyhole bed, the spiral mound and the companion cluster are new garden forms.
 
Some people like the precise geometry of medieval garden beds, though. What with seeds brought in by wind and birds, storm damage, and rapid summer growth, there is something to be said for neatness as an organizing tool. It can also be a way to combine garden and grass area in a small yard.  Old methods of pruning, pleaching and espalier are useful for working fruit trees into your scheme. An espaliered tree, attached to a wall that collects sun, is also a way to extend the growing season, or extend the hardiness zone of a species.
 
In some cases, private gardens perform a valuable public service by providing a haven for heirloom plants. Some varieties are in danger of dying out, for example, fruits that have a shorter shelf life than grocery stores demand. Roses with strong perfume and brief blooming seasons are losing ground to showy, scentless roses that bloom all summer. Since the 1970s, commercial agriculture and seed companies like Monsanto have concentrated on a few varieties, not always the most nutritious or flavorful. The tomato is a case in point.
 
Two local sources deserve mention here. Southern Exposure Seed Exchange in Louisa, VA, is a farm and catalog operation that is “saving the past for the future.” Edible Landscaping in Afton, VA does online and catalog sales, and their nursery makes a wonderful day trip.
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The Patio

 The back porch is part of American folk culture, and the wooden deck was popular in the late 1900s, but neither has the style and durability of a terrace. A transition between house and garden, a terrace allows French doors to open from the living spaces, promotes fresh air and sunlight, and provides an ideal place to entertain. Best of all, a terrace connects directly to the garden, through borders of flowers and shade trees. Designed by a landscape architect or by a supplier like Scott Price at Snow’s Garden Center, or Tim Reese of Bella Terra Landscapes, a terrace may be inseparable from the planting that envelops it.

 
There are plenty of idea books and how-to guides for home gardens and terraces. One that you may not have seen is Gardens for Small Country Houses, by Gertrude Jekyll and Lawrence Weaver. Originally published in 1912 by the British magazine Country Life, this book distills a lifetime of experience by Jekyll (1843-1932), a well-known artist and garden designer. A century later, her ideas are still sound, and her advice is practical. Referring to a terrace as a parterre, she says: “The beds are arranged in such a way that all work on the flowers can be done from the paved paths. This is useful in the many cases where ladies do not leave pruning, etc. to the gardener, and like to do the work dryshod.”
 
Jekyll and Weaver’s book gives many examples of paving, with suggested materials, patterns, steps, retaining walls, and accessories like statues, sundials and seats. The modern term for these built-in features is “hardscape,” as opposed to soil and plants. The illustrations show mainly rectangular shapes and hard borders, softened by masses of foliage. Contemporary American design may be full of curves and flowing lines, with ambiguous blending of pavement, grass, herb beds, and water features.
 
Flagstone, brick, and ceramic tile are traditional materials for a terrace. Lay them on a concrete base for maximum stability. Or lay them on a bed of sand or directly on the ground if the soil is firm and level. Stones can be irregularly shaped for a rustic look, or cut to measure for an urbane terrace to match a high-style house. If bare concrete is used, give it a decorative finish like exposed aggregate or careful troweling. Tinted and stamped concrete were popular a few years ago, while shaped concrete pavers are a current option. Bear in mind that all concrete will crack, and that the soil under it must be firmly compacted.
The reason for creating a terrace is often to overcome sloping or uneven ground. Stone and brick steps can be a very effective design element, both at the house wall and from the terrace to the garden. Then again, the paved area may step down in more than one level. In any case, it has a slight pitch to allow rainwater to drain. Retaining walls come into play for the same reason. They should be designed to withstand the weight of earth, and allow groundwater to drain at the bottom. Poor examples that have failed are easy to spot.
 
Plant flowers and shrubs at the edge of a terrace to best enjoy them. Add a pergola to filter direct sun and train vines, and place garden ornaments for effect—urns, vases, statues and boulders. For an Italian or French note, plant flowers and small trees in tubs and pots to move them around, and to raise them closer to eye level. Consider the line of sight of a person seated on the terrace, as well as one looking from inside the house. A railing or balustrade should be low enough to see over.
 
A pool, fountain, or other water feature provides a strong focus for a terrace. A sheet of water reflects sun like a mirror, and it can have a mystical effect of calm. Running water or the splash of a fountain, on the other hand, adds life and gaiety. If you have young children, almost any body of water can be a hazard. It will also attract birds and wildlife. The possibilities of stone basins, ceramic tile lining, and fountain jet gadgetry are limitless.
 
A fire pit, hearth, gas grill, or outdoor fireplace can be convenient for cooking on the terrace or nighttime entertaining. They can extend the season into spring and fall, when the air is chilly. Furniture should be chosen to withstand weather if left outside, or to be easily moved and stored for the winter. It can be sleek and modern; heavy and rustic; sophisticated or yard-sale bargain. Teak and cast-iron are traditional, durable materials. Add freshness and color with natural fabric cushions, awnings and umbrellas. And remember that a crowd of guests will add color and life, so leave room for them.
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Turrets, Dormers & Cupolas

In his novel The Longest Journey, E. M. Forster makes a rare literary nod to architectural ornament. A naked boy climbs on the roof of a country house and shouts to those in the garden below: “Am I an acroterium?” The answer: “Yes, but they are unfashionable. Go in at once.”

An acroterium (from Greek words meaning “high” and “watcher, guardian”) is a sculpture placed at the top or angle of a roof gable. In classical architecture, the sculpture is often an urn, a bird, a palmette, or a standing human figure. The inspiration may have come from nature. Birds often perch on the peak of a roof, and birds were associated with spirits and divination. To place a divine guardian atop a temple made perfect sense.
 
The Italian Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio (1508-1580) drew statues on the roofs of his palaces and villas, which he modeled after classical temples. His influence on European architecture was enormous. In Rome especially, there is a rooftop population of saints and biblical characters. Likewise, domes, cupolas, dormers, spires, crests and towers of every kind decorate the skyline.
 
In English houses, as Forster notes, the fashion shifted. And in American houses, we seldom go beyond lightning rods and weathervanes to avert the wrath of heaven. But we do like roof ornament. Turrets, dormers and cupolas remain popular, along with chimneys, balustrades and the occasional crow’s nest or lookout.
 
These roof elements can have a practical function. Dormers admit natural light and air to an attic, the space under the sloping rafters, and allow that space to be used for bedrooms. In a house that lacks dormers, but has sufficient headroom and structural strength, they can be added. In 2006, Tom and Judy Boyd added dormers to their brick one-story house in Charlottesville. They gained a guest bedroom, bath and study on the second floor. Troy Yancey, of TEAL Construction was the builder. He matched the Colonial Revival style of the house so well that people assume the dormers are original. “The framing is straightforward,” he says, “as are the flashing and finishing. The hard part is matching the existing roof shingles.”
 
While simple dormers are common in traditional houses, and chimneys and cupolas hold a strong place in Colonial design—think of Williamsburg and Philadelphia—turrets belong to the Victorian era. Round, square or octagonal, with a pointed or mansard roof, the turret extends above the roofline to give a vertical accent to the house, with high windows that suggest an observation post or the lair of a lunatic—think of the Addams Family and Uncle Fester.
 
The Abrams Guide to American House Styles, by William Morgan (Abrams, 2004) has page after page of color photographs of Victorian houses, bristling with gables, turrets, balconies and bulbous spikes. As Morgan points out, Queen Victoria had a long reign, from 1837 to 1901, and her name is “a convenient umbrella for a range of substyles that convey the entrepreneurial and rough and tumble spirit of late nineteenth-century America.” After the Civil War, there was an explosion of new wealth, new methods of construction, and newly rich people who wished to express themselves.
 
Some of those people, and their architects, traveled to Europe. The castles of Spain, France and Germany inspired them. Arguably, the chateaux of the Loire valley in France inspired them most of all. The fanciful rooflines of Blois, Chambord, Chenonceaux and Loches, among others, gave rise to the fairy-tale castle that we associate with Cinderella, and that we see in Disney’s Magic Kingdom. The spiky silhouette, the round stone towers, the forest of chimneys, and the steep, shiny slate roofs all found their way into humbler materials—wood, brick, rolled steel and pressed tin—and the dimensions of a single-family house.
 
The frenzy reached a peak in the 1880s and 1890s, in a style that is loosely called Queen Anne. Incorporating a dash of Gothic, Romanesque, and Moorish, this was a period of excess in ornament, using deep colors, grotesque details, and complex geometrical shapes. Roofs sprouted gables and dormers in all directions, and a house was hardly complete without a tower of some kind. In Charlottesville, there is a cluster of turreted houses on Park Street in the blocks near Court Square, now used as attorney offices. Staunton boasts a collection east of downtown on Beverley, Coalter and Kalorama Streets.
 
The Belmont neighborhood of Charlottesville has both old and new versions. Belmont Avenue has modest examples from the early 1900s, nicely restored. Scattered in other streets are houses that grew upward more recently, adding a third story with generous windows for sunlight. The view from these modern, glassy belvederes, over roofs and gardens, must be delightful.
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Small is Beautiful

The average size of a new single-family house in the United States grew from less than 1,000 sq. ft. in 1950 to 2,521 sq. ft. in 2007, according to the United States Census Bureau. That was the peak year. By 2010, the average size shrank to 2,392 sq. ft., and experts in the industry predict that the shrinking will continue. 

The economic recession is surely a factor, with depressed home prices, lower sales volume, and decreased purchasing power among consumers. Demographic trends also come into play. Family size has been shrinking for decades, as people have fewer children, or the children grow up and leave the nest, or the family is a couple or a single person. The 2010 United States Census gives the average family size as 2.59 persons. Single-person households are now 27 percent of the total, up from 13 percent in 1960.
 
Economists said for years that lower and middle class income remained stagnant while home size grew. By no coincidence, personal debt soared, mainly in the form of mortgages. The news since 2007 has been full of stories about unscrupulous lenders and shady financial deals on Wall Street and in European capitals. The backstory is that many ordinary people borrowed too much money. A reckoning was due on a global scale.
 
Well before the meltdown, some designers and homebuyers showed a preference for smaller houses. In 1997, Sarah Susanka published The Not So Big House, a book on “tailoring your home for the way you really live.” An architect, Susanka elaborated the point that architects have always made: build quality, not quantity. She challenged the subliminal connection between house size and ego by asking clients, and then readers: “Why do you want so much space? How much space do you actually need?”
 
Very large houses and unique luxury properties always have been a niche market, often taking a long time to sell. In the current climate, they may linger for years and their prices have plummeted. At the other end of the price scale, small houses have been the most active share of the market for the past few years. Partly due to competition with foreclosed properties, prices have fallen here too, but not so dramatically.
 
Local real estate broker Pat Sury of Montague Miller & Company, says: “The buyers I see divide into two groups, older and younger. The older group is retiring, downsizing, often moving here from out of town. They want good construction instead of lots of square feet. They are buying high-end condominiums and attached houses. They like in-town locations, which tend to have smaller lots. The younger people, families with children, are looking at houses that omit the formal spaces—living and dining rooms—in favor of open floor plans. Both groups want green design, which often means smaller house size.”
 
Retirees, empty-nesters, and one- or two-person households are a growing share of the market nationwide. These people do not want to maintain more house than they need, or pay energy bills and real estate taxes for it. They are prudent about how much they spend, and they invest only part of their wealth in real estate. They have learned from experience, and they are savvy when it comes to construction. In keeping with a Puritan strain in American culture, some homeowners feel that restraint is a virtue. Excess and ostentation, exemplified by the McMansion, are out. Good taste is in.
 
The finished area may be less, but buyers still want features. The new small house typically has an upgraded kitchen, a luxurious master bath, and a high-performance HVAC system. Hardwood and ceramic tile floors are increasingly seen as standard, instead of an upgrade from carpet and vinyl. Appliances, light fixtures, cabinets and hardware are more pleasing to the eye and made to last longer. On the exterior, durable materials like fiber-cement plank, brick, and composite (a rot-resistant wood product) are preferred to vinyl and aluminum siding. Windows and doors, a large part of any construction budget, are ample and of high quality, brands like Pella and Marvin instead of no-name vinyl. Here, green design comes to the fore, favoring natural light and sealing air leaks to conserve energy.
 
The small house, then, is not all about saving money. It is also about style. Cottages, cabins, and diminutive dwellings of all kinds exert a fascination. The quirky cottages of Carmel, California, the Colonial-era houses of Cape Cod, and the bungalow (originally an import from India) are endlessly photographed and imitated. With their hand-crafted details, fine wood species, art glass, custom ceramic tile, and carefully chosen “boulders” in foundations and chimneys, these houses can be expensive.
 
Among the many books on the subject, here are two personal favorites. The American Bungalow 1880-1930, by Clay Lancaster (Dover, 1985) is the definitive history, with a wealth of photographs and drawings. The idea of the bungalow was so popular among all classes that it led to large houses of two and three stories. The small, mass-produced bungalow with the low, spreading roof is more typical. Dover also reprints catalog books from the late nineteenth and early twentieth century, showing hundreds of small, architecturally inventive houses.
 
Cottages by the Sea, by Linda Leigh Paul (Universe, 2000) describes 35 “handmade homes of Carmel, America’s first artist colony” with color photographs. From fisherman shacks to architect-designed showplaces, the Carmel cottages are a tourist attraction and an exclusive weekend getaway. Arched doors, rock walls, shingle roofs, and picturesque gables sprout everywhere. No two windows are alike, and there are plenty of them to take in the Pacific coast views. 
 
The so-called tiny house movement takes size and cuteness to the limit. As promoted by Jay Shafer in his website and book, the Tumbleweed Tiny House Company has dozens of well-crafted designs that resemble cabins, converted sheds and children’s playhouses. Some are mounted on wheels. They are sold as prefab kits for the do-it-yourselfer, or architectural plans. Shafer claims to have lived happily for years in a house of 89 square feet. His website shows models that range from 99 sq. ft. up to 3-bedroom models of about 850 sq. ft., in styles that recall Carpenter Gothic and Craftsman. A tiny house seems unsuitable for entertaining or raising a family, but as Shafer says, it will fit anywhere and it is cheaper to build and maintain than a standard house.
 
After Hurricane Katrina, architects produced a flood of cottage designs with dimensions and details that recall the traditional housing that was destroyed. Meant to be affordable, and in some cases to be mass-produced, Katrina Cottages are often delightful exercises in scale and ingenuity. The good life can be lived in close quarters, they imply. Historical reproductions and pattern book designs are an earlier attempt to infuse small, inexpensive houses with architectural detail and period charm. The restoration of Colonial Williamsburg inspired a rash of such houses through the 1970s, some of which are now due for a makeover.
 
The New Urbanism movement dates from the 1980s, well before the current recession. Conceived as an antidote to suburban sprawl, New Urbanist ideas are gaining acceptance in the development of new subdivisions, which in turn affect what is built. Simply put, the small lots favor smaller houses and more compact floor plans. The higher density (dwelling units per acre) requires public sewers instead of private septic systems, which means that county and town planning departments are closely involved. Green design advocates note that density encourages walking, reduces car trips, economizes utility lines, and stimulates neighborliness. Social engineering aside, New Urbanist housing often has a neotraditional look, with an economical use of space. 
 
Local examples of New Urbanist development include Belvedere north of Charlottesville and Old Trail west of Crozet. The new subdivisions contain a mix of housing types and prices, from affordable garden apartments to attached houses to larger free-standing houses, with vest pocket public parks to compensate for the small private yards. Kentlands, in Gaithersburg, Maryland, was a pioneer in this type of development. According to Michael Watkins, one of its designers, in a talk in Richmond in 2011, property values and resales have performed better in Kentlands than in nearby conventional housing.
 
Attached houses, also called townhouses or rowhouses, are disparaged as monotonous, cramped, and lacking in social tone. Yet some townhouses feature varied facades, front porches, and luxurious interiors. The townhouse is in fact the ultimate in small-house living, with centuries of history behind it. Built at higher density, it reduces sprawl, which in turn reduces the infrastructure of roads and utilities, which reduces car trips and pollution, and so on. Multi-story design and party walls between houses reduce the exterior envelope, and therefore reduce the cost of construction and maintenance. As modern renovations show, the townhouse is capable of endless variations in interior layout. Stairs are inevitable, so this type of vertical living is not for everyone.
 
In the eastern United States, the nineteenth century was the heyday of the townhouse. Boston, New York, Philadephia, Baltimore, Washington, Charleston and Savannah all contain large areas of low-rise, compact and charming townhouses. Brick is the dominant material, with regional variations. New York is famous for its brownstone facades, while Boston is known for bow windows, and Philadelphia for fine details and limestone trim. Restored and updated, these neighborhoods are now very desirable, and prices are beyond the reach of the middle class for which they were originally built. 
 
Richmond, Virginia, boasts examples of townhouse development in the Fan, Church Hill and Jackson Ward districts. Historic Richmond Foundation has published three books on them with large color photographs: Richmond’s Fan District, by Drew St. J. Corneal, 1996; Old Richmond Today, by John G. Zehmer, 2004; and The Church Hill Old and Historic Districts, by John G. Zehmer, 2011. Restoration has come to Richmond, but it is still possible to buy low-priced houses in the Fan and Jackson Ward, the historic black center. A local specialty is the wrought iron used for railings, porches and roof crests. 
 
Charlottesville has few historic townhouses. It was too lightly settled to need that type of development in the nineteenth century. Small brick rows are located near the University of Virginia on West Main Street and isolated units in the grid of streets downtown. Most of our townhouses were built after 1950, on the edge of the urban area. As a result, they lack the convenience of neighborhoods like the Fan. Georgetown Green, Minor Hill, Stonehenge and River Run are pleasant and walkable, but you still need a car to live there. In the past decade, townhouse clusters were built in southern neighborhoods like Belmont and Johnson Village, within city limits but a long walk to the center. If the trend continues, Charlottesville may become a model for the green, small-size city. 
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Adding a Fireplace

Let’s say you like everything about your house—location, size, sunlight, yard, floor plan, and so on. Maybe you’ve lived there for years, or maybe you’re about to buy it. But it has no fireplace. Can you add one? How difficult is it, how much does it cost, and how much resale value does it add?

According to Kelly Ceppa, a REALTOR® with Nest Realty in Charlottesville, homebuyers who write a list of features they want seldom include a fireplace. “If a house happens to have one, it’s a plus. If the fireplace is a prominent feature that catches the eye, it may help in selling. But it’s hard to put a number on the value. Most people choose a house on general appeal. Lack of a fireplace is not a deal-breaker.”
 
For a contrasting point of view, in their 1902 book The Decoration of Houses, Edith Wharton and Ogden Codman, Jr. say: “The fireplace was formerly always regarded as the chief feature of the room, and so treated in every well-thought-out scheme of decoration.” They devote a chapter to fireplaces and mantels, with practical hints on materials, architectural form, and placement. You should locate a fireplace in the center of the longer wall of a room, with space for seating beside it. Fussy ornament is vulgar, and sham is forbidden. Wharton, better known for her novels of high society, was strict.
 
With these sobering thoughts in mind, if you want the warmth and beauty of a fireplace in your house, here is how to proceed. There are three basic types: masonry, metal, and stove. Masonry, which can be built of brick, block or stone, is the most massive and expensive option. The construction of flues and fireboxes is a craft that requires a skilled mason. The fireplace and chimney are independent of the wood structure, have their own foundation, and must meet the building code. A masonry wood-burning fireplace and chimney will cost $5,000 to build, more with a special mantel or hearth.
 
Metal fireplaces, also called prefab, zero-clearance, and a variety of other names, are more like a built-in appliance. They generally burn natural gas or propane, from jets hidden in artificial logs. Some are operated by the flick of a switch or by remote control, much like a television. You may appreciate the convenience, with no need to haul wood and shovel ashes.  There are perhaps a dozen manufacturers, each with several models. The cost for purchase and installation is in the $2,000 range.
 
Stoves can be cast-iron, ceramic, or specially built of stone, with or without a door that allows you to see the flames. Though free-standing, they still must have a flue to outside, and the surfaces near them (floor and wall) must withstand high heat. You can buy a modest stove for under $1,000, or a large and complex one for several thousand. Europeans have a tradition of fine ceramic stoves, beautiful and good for heating. Tulikivi is a locally marketed Finnish stove made of soapstone. In America, the cast-iron stove, including the one invented by Benjamin Franklin, is traditional. It can burn wood, coal, pellets, dried corn, rolled newspapers, and in an emergency, old love letters.
 
For any type of fireplace, you need to decide whether it will be a significant source of heat or simply decorative. The traditional brick fireplace, with a wide open hearth, as found in Colonial houses, is an inefficient way to heat a room. Most of the heat goes up the chimney, and the fire creates a draft of cold air. The Rumford fireplace design is better, and an iron fireback or insert reflects more heat. An existing masonry fireplace can be adapted to burn gas, and glass doors can be added, either for safety or to convert it to convection, often called a “Heatilator.” Prefab metal fireplaces have this option built in. Stoves are essentially large radiators, and they control combustion for maximum efficiency.
 
Wooden Sun is a local company that sells prefab fireplaces, stoves, wood mantels, stone hearths, fireplace tools and related gear. With a lavish showroom in the Ix Factory in Charlottesville, Wooden Sun does sales and installation—one-stop shopping for the home improvement firebug. 
 
The frosty winter day I visited, one of the two partners, Jonathan Schnyder, gave me a tour. A former building contractor, he carries several manufacturers, including Hampton, Pacific Energy, Regency, Renaissance, Valor, and Vermont Castings. Some models are decidedly old-fashioned, recalling nineteenth-century cast-iron stoves, with or without cooktop. Some of the inserts and freestanding models are sleek and modern. Neoclassical wood mantels are shown with contemporary designs, natural wood and painted. And there are choices for stone and ceramic tile facing. They also sweep chimneys and reline flues. For more information, visit woodensun.com. 
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Fixing to Stay Put

Out of economic necessity or personal preference, Americans increasingly choose to stay in their homes for retirement. The neighborhood may be ideal, equipped with public transit, shops, and a stable, congenial population. Relatives may live nearby, including the next generation of grandchildren. A circle of friends may provide an active social life and support system. For a lucky few, the mortgage may be paid off, and financial security is within reach. Lastly, familiar surroundings may outweigh the possible benefit of moving to a warmer climate or a place reputed to have a lower cost of living.

 
If the home itself is aging, it may need some repair and remodeling to make it weathertight, safe and structurally sound. More to the point, it may need to adapt to the changing needs of aging residents. Whether it is a detached house, a condominium, a mother-in-law suite, or a rental unit marketed to seniors, what are some common problems and solutions for those who are fixing to stay put?
 
The AARP, which publishes a magazine filled with useful advice for the over-fifty set, also produced a book, the AARP Guide to Revitalizing Your Home: Beautiful Living for the Second Half of Life, by Rosemary Bakker. Bakker is an interior designer and research associate in design for the elderly at Weill Cornell Medical College in New York City. Her overall message is that a residence can be both accessible to those with disabilities and aesthetically pleasing, and the book describes practical ways to achieve this result.
 
Decades of regulation and architectural practice in handicapped accessibility, barrier-free design, needs of the elderly, and design for types of disability have merged in what is now called universal design. This approach recognizes that design for people in wheelchairs is not enough, and that making all spaces accessible is better than dividing the disabled from the mainstream population. For an extended family, there is clearly an advantage in keeping grandma in the loop. A non-technical book that addresses the topic this way is Knack Universal Design: A Step-by-Step Guide to Modifying Your Home for Comfortable, Accessible Living, by Barbara Krueger and Nika Stewart. Knack is a series of how-to books on every conceivable aspect of living, and Krueger is a marketing expert on housing for seniors.
 
Federal and local government agencies also have free information on home modifications for an aging population, with programs for financial assistance. Navigating this route has its hazards—dead weblinks, unanswered telephones, and endless forms to fill out. Locally, a better bet might be to contact the Jefferson Area Board for Aging, or JABA, whose mission is to provide and coordinate services for “aging in place.”
 
What are the special needs of older adults? Diminished muscle strength, eyesight and hearing are common. Difficulty in going up or down steps is also common among those who still move around on foot. For those in a wheelchair or using a walker, adequate clearance in circulation routes is essential, along with level floors and a lack of steps. Finally, even those who are mobile may have a hard time reaching high and low, which requires stretching and bending at the waist.
 
Bearing these special needs in mind, here are some renovation items that occur frequently. This is not a checklist, but if you want to adapt your home, or make changes in the home of an older relative, these suggestions will help you get started.
 
Stairs—One-level living is ideal. In the case of an apartment, it ought to be on the ground floor, or reached by elevator. In a house, if there is not already a bedroom and bath on the ground floor, can they be created? If an addition is ruled out by lot lines or grade, it may be possible to modify an existing room, for example a formal dining room that is seldom used. Old houses often have a study or small extra room that will serve the purpose. Just as often, they lack a bath and closet, so some ingenuity is required to insert them.
 
A mechanical stair glide or chair lift is one way to access the second floor. These devices can turn a corner and they can be installed and later removed without altering the stair. If the floor plan allows a vertical shaft, a small or single-passenger elevator can be installed at far less cost than building an addition. Residential elevators come in a range of load capacities and prices, so they are worth considering. 
 
Reach—Doorknobs should be at a convenient height. Handles or levers are easier to use than knobs, so a change in hardware may be in order. The same is true for cabinets, shelves, mailboxes, light switches, thermostats, towel bars, and anything else that you reach on a daily basis. If you are replacing light switches, use the rocker panel type instead of the small lever, and if you are replacing the thermostat, use a digital, programmable type.
 
In the kitchen, swapping out appliances can make a difference. A stove with front controls, for example, means the user does not have to reach over the burners. Refrigerators come in a variety of models, with features like sliding shelves and drawers, to make reaching inside easier. Front-loader washing machines can be used from a seated position, such as a wheelchair. Once a special order, they are now widely available. In the realm of cabinetry, pull-out shelves and countertops at varied heights provide convenience that was once custom-made. 
 
In the bath, plumbing fixtures can be replaced, grab bars can be added on walls, and light fixtures can be adjusted or upgraded. An accessible toilet has a slightly higher seat and longer bowl. An accessible sink is mounted a little lower, and is open under, with a shield at the drain to protect your knees. Baths and showers come in several accessible types, from the roll-in shower to the step-in tub, with fixed or fold-down seats, hand-held shower heads, and easy-to-use water controls. Dimensions and clearances for accessibility are given in the government handbook Accessible and Usable Buildings and Facilities, published by the International Code Council. An architect or designer can help interpret the complex rules, which are hard to apply in renovation. But any improvement is a plus.
 
Circulation—For a standard wheelchair, a clear width of 36” is the rule, with additional clearances for turning, backing, and approaching a door or appliance. Motorized wheelchairs are larger and may require more room. As it turns out, wide doors, spacious halls, and uncluttered routes help everyone, not just those in wheelchairs. Nonslip floor surfaces are recommended, so a polished hardwood or slick ceramic tile will need to be modified. Low pile carpet, vinyl tile, and natural wood are good choices. Remove trip hazards such as electric cords, loose rugs, and high thresholds. Changes in floor material—with no change in level—can be a subtle way to distinguish living areas for those with poor eyesight.
 
Railings help, too, and they can be unobtrusive. A wood band, for example, looks better than a metal pipe, feels better to the grasp, and can be coordinated with wood base and crown moldings. If ramps are used between floor levels, they should generally be no steeper than 1:12, or one inch vertical to one foot horizontal, with landings at doors and turns. Provide places to stash a walker or wheelchair when not in use. 
 
Lighting—In any renovation, lighting is the least expensive way to improve the quality of space. For older adults, adequate lighting in circulation routes can increase confidence and prevent falls. Improvement can range from changing an electric bulb to adding low-level illumination at steps to maximizing daylight in living spaces. Remove window coverings, trim overgrown foliage, and clean the glass. If possible, remove window unit air conditioners and old storm sash, and replace windows with ones that are energy-efficient and easy to open. A crank-operated casement, for example, may be better than a lift-up sash. 
 
In bedrooms, make sure window blinds are fully operable for sun control. Use floor and table lamps that are easy to turn on and hard to tip over. Overhead lights and wall sconces do not have to be as bright as day, but they are good for general illumination.
 
Entry—Parking must be convenient and safe, and there must be a clear route to the front door of the house or apartment, preferably without steps. If a ramp is needed, it can be designed to fit in, placed to one side, or given a railing to match an existing railing. Temporary ramps are available, while a wooden ramp is a simple home improvement project. Stone and concrete ramps are more durable and can be integrated into the design of the landscape.
 
The entry should be covered for protection from rain, snow and ice. At a minimum, the cover can be an awning of fabric or aluminum. A porch or hood over the door is a more permanent and architectural solution. Best of all is an attached garage with a door that opens directly to the living space. The concrete slab of the garage is often below first floor level, so you will have to weigh the relative merits of a ramp, lift or steps.
Storm doors and screen doors are good for energy conservation, but they are difficult to negotiate. At the main entry, they should be removed. Provide adequate night lighting, including an illuminated street number or other address identification. 
 
Caregiver—In the case of a large house or apartment, with a resident able to afford home health care, a place may be needed for a caregiver to stay overnight. This can be anything from a spare bedroom to a guest suite to a separate apartment, located over the garage or in the basement. Check the local zoning ordinance. Often it will allow an “accessory apartment” that meets certain limits on size. Even a relative deserves some privacy and comfort, and a little advance planning can make everyone’s life better.
 
Security—Depending on the neighborhood, a home security system may be a good idea, if only for peace of mind. These vary in their level of technology and expense, so comparison shopping is recommended. Features include alarms, intercoms, electronic monitoring, motion sensors, heat sensors, remote cameras, floodlights, and automatic notification of police and fire departments. On a more basic level, check existing door and window locks and repair them as needed, install a peephole at the main entry, and make sure the telephone is in working order and within reach. Medical signaling devices are available for emergencies, attached to a wall or portable. Whatever system is used, consider that the older resident will probably not have a key handy or remember an access code. Keep it simple, and she may even use it.
 
Robert Boucheron is a Charlottesville-based architect.