Category: Best of C-VILLE

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Food & Drink Living

Fall for it: Expert tips for throwing a wine harvest party

Table settings that include the color blue, like these from The Market at Grelen, in Somerset, are a good match for the neutral hues of fall. Photo: Courtesy of The Market at Grelen

After the harvest rain-out of 2018, this year’s Virginia wine vintage brings especially welcome news: a healthy, plentiful crop of ripe reds and whites, now bubbling merrily away in fermentation tanks before their long winter’s rest. Wineries are preparing to celebrate with harvest parties scheduled for the weekend of October 19, including events at Valley Road Vineyards, Courthouse Creek Cider, and Veritas Vineyard & Winery, among others.

“We kicked off the harvest party theme last year as a way for wineries, retailers, restaurants, and the public to help celebrate October as Virginia Wine Month,” says Annette Boyd, director of the Virginia Wine Marketing Office. “The concept has really taken off. This is an event we want to build each year to celebrate the bounty of all products grown in Virginia, in addition to Virginia wines.”

We loved the idea, so we asked local experts for some tips to help you plan your own harvest party this month.

Harvest wine and food pairing

Priscilla Martin Curley

Co-owner, The Wine Guild of Charlottesville; general manager, Monticello Farm Table Café

“I think a great way to celebrate the Virginia harvest would be to pair a Virginia wine specialty, such as dry petit manseng, with a fire-roasted pork loin served with paw paw jam. The sweet-tart quality of the paw paws married with the smoky char of the pork will bring out the subtle tropical honey notes in the petit manseng while contrasting with the bitter qualities. Plus, it’s an impressive but simple showstopper for any harvest party meal! You can even use the unique-looking paw paw fruit as part of your centerpiece along with some beautiful fall foliage.”

Where to find it: “Try Horton Vineyards’ 2015 Petit Manseng ($25)—it won the 2019 Virginia Governor’s Cup. I’d also recommend Michael Shaps Wineworks petit manseng ($30). Shaps was one of the first to make a dry version of this wine.” Curley forages for her paw paw fruit, but it’s also available seasonally at farmers’ markets. Horton, (540) 832-7440; hortonwine.com. Shaps, 529-6848; virginiawineworks.com

A fresh take on tableware

Tabatha Wilson

Manager, The Market at Grelen

“When creating your fall tablescape, don’t be afraid to mix up the traditional for something a little more fun—adding color is a great way to spice up your tabletop. Blue is one of our favorites because it is such a versatile color, and when paired with neutral hues it can be very elegant. Colored glassware is a beautiful way to add color to your table. Also, little seasonal touches, like a simple feather in a napkin ring, can make a big statement.”

Where to find it: The Market at Grelen, Somerset, (540) 672-7268; themarketatgrelen.com

Breezy centerpieces

Jazmin Portnow

Owner, Anyvent Event Planning

“My key to a good table setting is to incorporate quirky and unexpected seasonal elements as part of your centerpieces. A wedding trend that will make an appearance in my seasonal and holiday centerpieces is pampas grass. It’s wild, fun, and has a wheat-like aesthetic that’s perfect for fall.”

Where to find it: Pampas grass is readily available at local florists, including Colonial Florist, in Gordonsville. (540) 832-3611; colonialfloristantiques.com

Bring on the fire

Casey Eves

Founder and owner, Casey Eves Design

“For festive events, nothing is better than a supervised fire pit and a s’mores station! The secret ingredient to killer seasonal s’mores? Peppermint bark instead of Hershey bars.”

Where to find it: Feast! co-owner Kate Collier vouches for the peppermint bark personally—it’s made by her mom, Maggie Castillo, of nearby Hunt Country Foods. 244-7800; feastvirginia.com

Blue is a good choice for fall tablescapes because it’s “such a versatile color, and when paired with neutral hues it can be very elegant,” says Tabatha Wilson, manager at The Market at Grelen.

 

More food and wine pairings

The hearty, savory dishes of fall lend themselves well to wines like gewürztraminer, barbera, and cabernet franc. Mulled wine (heated and spiced with cinnamon, cloves, and other typical fall spices) is another great option for outdoor harvest parties. And don’t forget Virginia’s meads, the original party wine. Here are our recommendations; available at the wineries listed.

Gewürztraminer, Afton Mountain Vineyards, Afton ($28)

This aromatic, slightly sweet wine originally hails from Germany, but for a fun food pairing, think more exotic: coriander-spiced roasted chickpeas, garlicky grilled chicken wings, or cinnamon-laced chili. (540) 456-8667, aftonmountainvineyards.com

2017 Barbera Reserve, Glass House Winery, Free Union ($30)

This high-acid wine is a perfect match for a high-acid food like tomatoes, so try heirloom tomatoes with fresh mozzarella and balsamic, or spaghetti squash with a sauce of late-season crushed tomatoes and basil from the garden. 975-0094, glasshousewinery.com

2017 Cabernet Franc, Keswick Vineyards, Keswick ($59)

One of Virginia’s top wines for 2019, this cab franc stands up to strong herbal flavors, so how about surprising your guests with some surprisingly easy Cornish game hens roasted with plenty of herbs like thyme, rosemary, and sage? 244-3341, keswickvineyards.com

Spicy Rivanna, Burnley Vineyards, Barboursville ($15)

This blend is perfect as mulled wine—ready to heat and drink. The winery adds natural flavorings of cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, allspice, anise, orange peel, and lemon peel to their Rivanna Red, and sells it by the bottle. 960-4411, burnleywines.com

Voyage, Hill Top Berry Farm and Winery, Nellysford ($22)

Made from 100 percent fermented honey, this is Hill Top’s version of the mead that the Vikings drank. It pairs with hunks of crusty bread, hard cheese, and cured meats. Pick up a bottle of Cyser (apple mead), Lavender Metheglin (spiced mead), or Hunter’s Moon (spiced pumpkin mead) and treat your mates to a mead taste-off. Hilltop Berry Farm and Winery, 361-1266—N.B.

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Food & Drink Living

Spirited debate: Tasting and talking Virginia whiskey (and one rum)

A panel of experts and enthusiasts tasted eight local brown liquors—bourbon, single malt, and one rum. Photo: Max March

Whiskey goes way back in Virginia. In 1620, English settler George Thorpe made the first batch of spirits in Jamestown using corn—not barley, as was the tradition in Europe—obtained in a trade with the indigenous Powhatan people. George Washington added to the commonwealth’s whiskey heritage, distilling a rye mash in Mount Vernon in the 1770s. Of greater relevance today is Culpeper’s Chuck Miller. He rescued an abandoned 3,000-gallon copper pot still from a hillside in Nelson County, and, with his wife Jeanette, became the first licensed craft distiller in Virginia in 1988. “I feel like I started a revolution,” says Miller.

In the decades since, a growing number of new distillers have followed the small-batch path in Virginia. With the cold weather blowing in, we decided it was time to sample some of those local efforts. So we gathered a few experts and enthusiasts to try two of Miller’s Belmont Farm creations and six other brown liquors made in and around Charlottesville. See our tasting notes below, and then find your own favorite to warm up the chilly nights ahead.

Belmont Farm Virginia Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Culpeper

92 proof. Aged two years in charred white oak barrels.

Nose: “Baking spice.” “Floral.” “Chocolate.” “Fruit tart.”

Palate: “Maple-driven sweetness.” “Pears and malt.” “Heat builds on the tongue.” “Too hot.” “Rough around the edges.”

Notes: “A little cloying for my taste.” “Long finish with corn and smoke at the end.”

Spirit Lab Distilling Single Malt Whiskey, Batch 5, Charlottesville

96 proof. Cured in charred white oak and bourbon barrels, finished in sherry and port casks. Total aging of 42 months.

Nose: “Toasted pear crumble.” “Maple syrup.” “Malt.”

Palate: “A little malty.” “Complex citrus notes.” “Balanced flavors.” “Hint of cinnamon.” “Anise.” “Fig.” “Light on the tongue.” “Mellow.”

Notes: “A complete whiskey.” “Yeah, dog! There’s some serious flavor here.” “Austere sweetness.”

Ragged Branch Farm, Signature Bourbon, Albemarle County

90 proof. Aged four years in charred white oak barrels.

Nose: “Raw grain.” “Honey.” “Tangy and sweet.”

Palate: “Maple.” “Burnt caramel.” “Caramel.” “Spicy.” “Molasses.” “Continuously hot.” “Spicy.”

Notes: “Good, young bourbon.” “It’s a little like candy your grandmother would give you, in a good way.” “Interesting late-night sipper with some ice.”

Virginia Distilling Company, Prelude American Single Malt Whiskey, Lovingston

92 proof. Aged three years-plus in sherry, cuvée and bourbon casks.

Nose: “Baked goods.” “Floral.” “Smoke.” “Chocolate-covered cherries.”

Palate: “Malty.” “Orange peel.” “Tobacco.” “Toffee.” “Sharp.” “Opens up the more you sip.”

Notes: “Very good American/Virginian example of a Scottish single malt.” “Light for a malt but hard to pigeon-hole, which is a good thing.”

Ragged Branch Farm, Wheated Bourbon, Albemarle County

90 proof. Double oaked, twice barreled (no aging duration given).

Nose: “Grassy.” “Young grain.” “Caramel.” “Sweet.”

Palate: “Spice.” “Fresh wood shavings.” “Heavy wheat, less oak presence.” “Expansive.” “Smoother than the [Ragged Branch] Signature Bourbon, but still a little hot.”

Notes: “Hot on the palate at the beginning but slightly mellows at the end.” “A little on the sour side.”

Belmont Farm Bonded Virginia Whiskey, Culpeper

100 proof. Aged six years in apple wood and Virginia white oak.

Nose: “Rice pudding.” “Cinnamon-raisin oatmeal.”

Palate: “Cinnamon and smoke.” “Caramel.” “Sorghum.” “Orange creme brulée.” “Smooth, slow release of flavors.”

Notes: “Needs a drop of water to open it up. After that, you get the apple wood right away.” “Another complete whiskey.” “Has a lot of depth.” “+++!”

Vitae Spirits, Barrel-Aged Rum, Charlottesville

90 proof. Unspecified aging period in bourbon and wine barrels.

Nose: “Bright, orange peel.” “Butterscotch.” “Molasses.”

Palate: “Buttery.” “Cocoa.” “French toast.” “Round.” “Full but thins out to a peppery finish.”

Notes: “Not as sweet as I’d expect a rum to be.” “Almost like an Armagnac.”

Silverback Distillery, Blackback Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Nelson County

86 proof. Two-and-a-half years in charred white oak barrels.

Nose: “Freshly split oak.” “Caramel.” “Butterscotch.”

Palate: “Graham cracker.” “Grain—something light, like wheat, as well as corn?” “Initially bracing but rounds out.”

Notes: “A young bourbon that shows characteristics of an older one. It sips well and has staying power.”

Tasting team

Ivar Aass: Co-founder and co-owner of Spirit Lab Distilling. (Aass reserved comment on his own product.)

Joe Bargmann: Living/Special Publications Editor, C-VILLE Weekly.

Larry Bleiberg: USA Today columnist, veteran travel and food writer, president-elect of the Society of American Travel Writers.

Will Curley: Co-owner, The Wine Guild of Charlottesville.

Rebecca Edwards: Nationally recognized mixologist who works at Tavola.

Max March: C-VILLE Weekly editorial designer, food and drink enthusiast.

Jake Mooney: C-VILLE Weekly contributor, former New York Times columnist, trenchant observer of life (including whiskey).

Whiskies

Belmont Farm, Virginia Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Spirit Lab Distilling, Single Malt Whiskey Batch 5

Ragged Branch Farm, Signature Bourbon

Virginia Distilling Co., Prelude American Single Malt Whisky

Ragged Branch Farm, Wheated Bourbon

Belmont Farm, Bonded Virginia Whiskey

Vitae Spirits, Barrel-Aged Rum

Silverback Distillery, Blackback Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Categories
Food & Drink Living

Staff picks: What we’re eating (and drinking) now

Mochiko Hawaiian Food and Deli at 5th Street Station is a staff favorite—and a unique spot in Charlottesville. Photo: Paul Whicheloe

The only thing better than working in the C-VILLE Weekly newsroom is leaving it to get a drink and a bite to eat. The paper’s writers and editors are just like you: Our pockets aren’t very deep but we love the city’s vibrant and diverse food scene. Here are a few of our favorite places and things.

Laura Longhine, editor

Recent find: El Salvadoran and Mexican food at the Marathon gas station on Rio Road (by Greenbrier Drive). Cheap, authentic, and delicious. Try the sopes al pastor or pupusas.

Cheap eats: Bodo’s!

Go-to spot: Bizou for lunch, Oakhart Social for dinner and drinks. For an ex-New Yorker, Oakhart’s dining room feels like home. The sausage pizza is reliably great, plus they usually have a lovely salad and a funky natural wine or two on the menu.

Splurge: C&O. Even after all this time, there’s nothing more satisfying than a slow-paced dinner here by the wood stove, with delicious cocktails and classics like the trout amandine and steak chinoise. Plus, I love a restaurant that still gives you a bread basket.

Go-to brew: Mosaic Pale Ale at Random Row is my absolute favorite beer in town.

As the name suggests, the la familia chicken dinner is a family favorite at Al Carbon. Photo: Tom McGovern

Family meal: La familia chicken dinner to go from Al Carbon—a whole bird plus three sides and two salsas for $21.50. We also love to get a table at Milan—friendly service, a kids menu, and naan to keep everyone happy.

Food with friends: Beer Run—get the nachos!

Guilty pleasure: The old-fashioned layer cake at MarieBette; almost too pretty to eat.

Local place I’m dying to try: Comal, the new Mexican place in Belmont.

Out-of-town restaurant: Una Pizza Napoletana, in NYC. Take the Amtrak. It’s worth it.

Max March, editorial designer

Recent find: Lately, I’ve been enjoying cocktails with bitter aperitifs like Campari and Aperol. I like the interplay of sweet and bitter of the 23 Skidoo at Brasserie Saison. My go-to these days is a boulevardier—a bourbon drink with Campari—at the cicchetti bar at Tavola.

Best meal ever: Restaurant Week 2014, at C&O. This wonderful dish stands out in my memory: braised beef and potato gnocchi and some kind of wine sauce (with mushrooms, I think). Along with the soft lighting and good friends around a long table, eating a stick-to-your-ribs meal like that really made a regular weekend meal feel like a holiday.

Cheap eats: Something needs to be said about Maya’s $12 menu on Tuesday. Maya serves that classic nouveau-Southern cuisine that is so satisfying, and a good portion of the menu is pretty affordable that night.

Splurge: Our special-occasion spot is Tavola. The food is always amazing. I often end up ordering too much because there are so many must-haves. Gotta have the mussels. Burrata is non-negotiable. More wine? Yes, please. Carbonara. Bolognese. They serve their steak with agrodolce and gorgonzola that provides this sweet/tangy/funky combo you won’t find anywhere else. Beet risotto equals best risotto. Oh yeah, they have an amazing cocktail bar in the back! Just…maybe bring friends and share to help out your wallet.

Go-to bar: Champion Brewery. Location is perfect for me. People are great.  Love the beer (some of my favorites in town). They have really solid bar food (J.M. Stock hot dogs, burgers, pretzels with beer cheese), and I’d put their nachos up against Beer Run’s any day (fight me). I also love that on any given day you might stop by to find some off-the-wall event happening. Ballet on the patio. An astronomy lesson from a UVA prof. Game nights. My fave is Tuesday night, when “Jeopardy!” is on, they turn off the music and turn up Trebek and the whole bar shouts out answers (questions) together. There aren’t a lot of bars in town that create an atmosphere of easy community like this one does.

Food with friends: This is where Mas really shines for me. My tip is to order a large sangria and quickly realize you’re all a little tipsier than you thought you’d be. Go-to dishes are the roasted tomatoes, and carne asada. Obviously you’ve got to order tapas staples like papas bravas and bacon-wrapped dates. Try the boquerones if you’re nasty (I am).

Brunch: Most underrated brunch in town is Miller’s. Chicken & waffles, a great biscuit and gravy, eggs benny, with all the boozy breakfast cocktails you could want. And it doesn’t break the bank.

Joe Bargmann, living/special publications editor

Recent find: Early Mountain Vineyards has a new chef and a carefully curated menu with a focus on local ingredients—delicious stuff, especially the pork
belly with shredded red cabbage. Also, the vineyard setting in the rolling hills of Madison is beautiful.

Go-to bar: Jack Brown’s Beer & Burgers. My girlfriend objects because of the gratuitous and sexist chandelier of bras (and I don’t disagree with her), but I like the smashburgers, dive-bar vibe, and friendly staff.

Late night: Miller’s on the Downtown Mall. Dark-wood saloon atmosphere, dim lighting, and amazing mac ‘n’ cheese (finished in a skillet and served folded-over, like an omelet, with a crisp shell).

Guilty pleasure: A good cut of beef from J.M. Stock. Pricey, for sure, but always worth it.

Happy hour: Tilman’s. Good deals and a sweet little tasting menu. I love the bruschetta with melted brie, prosciutto, and fig preserves.

Local place I’m dying to try: Prime 109, if my GoFundMe reaches its goal.

Out-of-town restaurant: En Su Boca, in Richmond. Killer margaritas and modern Tex-Mex food in a funky space where everyone has at least one tattoo.

Susan Sorensen, copy editor

Cheap eats: The Villa Diner. Breakfast is served until 4pm, portions are generous (and tasty), and nobody makes a better toasted pecan waffle (for $6.95, people!).

Go-to spot: Citizen Burger Bar for sweet potato fries and the “red” vegan burger. I know, I know: Who in the hell eats vegetarian at CBB?! I do—and it’s delicious.

Splurge: The Farmhouse at Veritas. The four-course menu (with wine pairings) changes every week, and costs $85 (plus tax and tip) per person.

Go-to bar: The Timberwood Grill. It’s pretty much in our Earlysville backyard, the beer menu is immense and well-curated, and it’s a swell place to watch UVA sports surrounded by lots of other Hoos fans. 

Brunch: Boylan Heights on the Corner. Our daughter’s a UVA second-year, and if we promise to pay for brunch (after noon, of course!) for her and her three adorable roommates, we get proof of life every couple months or so.

Late night: The Whiskey Jar. A mess of sides—mac ‘n’ cheese, corn bread, pimento cheese, ham biscuits, French fries—is perfect for soaking up a long night’s worth of alcohol. Last call is at 2 a.m. on weekends.

Guilty pleasure: Four scoops (dulce de leche, hazelnut, gianduia, and milk and cherry) from Splendora’s.

Happy hour: Rapture. Cheap cabernet, right across from our office on the Downtown Mall. ’Nuff said.

Out-of-town restaurant: Founding Farmers in Washington, D.C. The food’s terrific (try the chicken and waffles or the chicken pot pie),
and most of it comes from a bunch of family farms in North Dakota.

Erin O’Hare, arts reporter

Cheap eats: Vita Nova Pizza’s bell pepper and onion slice is hands-down the best bang for my four bucks.

Go-to spot: Twisted Branch Tea Bazaar—specifically, for the Goatherder plate, and for the amazing and delicious variety of teas hot and cold. Also, the milkshakes.

Brunch: Bluegrass Grill, where my favorite is the Hungry Norman, the perfect savory-sweet breakfast plate. When I have visitors in town on a weekday, I always take them here, because it’s the only time there’s no wait for a table.

Late night: C&O, because ’round midnight is the best time to nom a gooey grilled cheese soaked in tomato soup, a belly filler for $10.

Out-of-town restaurant: Kuba Kuba in Richmond! The paella options and the tres leches cake are so delicious, I don’t even know what to say about them except that you should go get them, but if you’re in my way, I’ll probably try to cut you in line.

Matt Weyrich, news reporter

Recent find (food): The Nook. The All The Way breakfast with a couple pieces of toast has quickly become my go-to.

Recent find (drink): South Street Brewery. The mystery beer that doesn’t yet have a name is fantastic and was easily the highlight of the flight I tasted.

Cheap eats: Brazos Tacos. If I had to have one meal item every day for the rest of my life, it just might be Brazos La Tia taco (picadillo beef, mashed potatoes, corn pico, white onion, queso fresco, and cilantro).

Go-to spot: Asado Wing and Taco Company. I love the wings and always seem to have good interactions with other people sitting at the bar.

Go-to bar: Draft Taproom. Sixty taps and more than a dozen TVs make for an awesome combination if you’re looking to watch sports with a beer in your hand all night.

Go-to brew: Three Notch’d. I pass by it on my way home from work every day, and sometimes I just can’t help myself.

Food with friends: The Whiskey Jar. I’m a big burger guy and my favorite in Charlottesville so far is definitely the Crunch Burger.

Brunch: Bodo’s. I’ve been to Bodo’s 19 times since I started at C-VILLE Weekly in June, and I have absolutely no shame in admitting it.

Late night: Jack Brown’s Beer & Burgers. I went to college at JMU and the vibe is exactly like the location in Harrisonburg, so it feels like home to me.

Happy hour: Random Row. You can’t beat the $2 happy hour on Thursdays.

Out-of-town restaurant: O’Neill’s Grill in Harrisonburg. I’m not much
of a dessert guy, but I cannot go there without having the cookie skillet.

Brielle Entzminger, news reporter

Recent find (food): Mochiko Hawaiian Food and Deli. It just opened at 5th Street Station.

Recent find (drink): The amazing sweet wines at Barboursville Vineyards.

Cheap eats: Any bowl at Poke Sushi Bowl with the coconut cream sauce.

Splurge: Sakura Japanese Steakhouse, about $60-70 with tip for two people.

Go-to bar: Skybar because of its nice view of the city.

Brunch: The Shebeen. Amazing mimosas and moderately priced South African food.

Happy hour: Guadalajara’s $7 jumbo margaritas on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

Out-of-town restaurant: Bottoms Up Pizza, in Richmond. Pizzas are huge, thick, delicious, and come in all kinds of unique combinations.

Categories
Food & Drink Living

Moore, please: At Early Mountain Vineyards, you’ll wish the meal would never end

Early Mountain Vineyards has steadily elevated the quality of its wines, in part, with the acquisition of high-quality existing vineyard plots. With the recent arrival of chef Tim Moore, the intention is to offer outstanding food as well. Photo: Tom McGovern

Just off of Route 29, about 25 miles north of Charlottesville, a two-lane road gently rises and falls with the rolling terrain, leading west toward Shenandoah National Park. As you approach the distant mountains they appear to grow bigger. It’s an ethereal scene, relaxing and more than a little distracting, so you might have to hit the brakes pretty hard to avoid racing past the unassuming entrance to Early Mountain Vineyards.

That’s exactly what happened to me on a recent Thursday, as my girlfriend and I headed to the winery for lunch. The scene inside the barn-like main hall is also quite grand, with soaring ceilings trussed by massive wood beams and large windows that always keep the farmland, neat vineyard rows, and muscular mountains within view.

Chef Tim Moore brings more than seven years of kitchen experience at the three-Michelin starred Inn at Little Washington to his new position at Early Mountain Vineyards, in Madison. Photo: Tom McGovern

Our expectations were running high for the meal. I had enjoyed a quick preview of chef Tim Moore’s cooking a couple of weeks earlier, and now I was returning for a fuller experience of the menu, which is offered from 11am-6pm daily except Tuesday, when the winery is closed. Moore’s arrival at Early Mountain this summer was much anticipated. He was taking over the dining program that had been established a few years earlier by Ryan Collins, a protégé of renowned chef José Andrés and now head of the kitchen at Charlottesville’s Little Star. Collins set a high bar, but Moore, like his predecessor, entered with an impressive professional pedigree, having spent more than seven years at the Michelin three-star Inn at Little Washington, in Rappahannock County.

We were seated at a banquette table beneath a window, fortunate to be on the shady side of the dining room, because the sun was blazing that day. The vines were bare, with the harvest recently completed, and the grass was brown due to the drought and persistent summer heat.

The furnishings and table settings are rustic, and the new cuisine‚ like this beet salad with Asian pears and foraged black walnuts, is refined. Photo: Tom McGovern

This is a story about a chef and a restaurant at an excellent winery, so I will dispense with the scene-setting (I know, it’s about time, right?) and describe the food and wine. We started with two, four-glass flights—one with a white, a rosé, and two reds, all from Early Mountain, and another with four reds (“Tantalizing Tannins,” per the list), two of which were from the vineyard and the others from Jefferson Vineyards, in Albemarle County, and Walsh Family Wine, in Purcellville. Early Mountain is the first vineyard in the area to offer a wine program with labels other than its own. The goal is to showcase the best the region has to offer, and thus raise its profile to the national level.

This may sound a tad too ambitious, but the winemaker, managers, and owner of Early Mountain (Jean Case, wife of AOL founder Steve Case) not only believe it can happen but are also taking strides in that direction. They’ve been quietly making trips to high-end restaurants in Washington, D.C., and Manhattan, and some have begun listing Virginia wines—and Early Mountain’s, in particular. Case, who spent more than 20 years leading marketing and branding efforts for AOL, is keenly aware of the importance of public perception. In the world of fine wine and hospitality—just as in any business, I suppose—that means hiring top talent. Moore is an ace pick, for sure, and so is winemaker Ben Jordan, who cut his teeth in the Sonoma Valley and later worked as general manager and winemaker for Michael Shaps. Born in Switzerland, CEO Peter Hoehn has 30 years experience at hotels around the world, including stints at Quail Lodge & Golf Club, in Carmel, California, and the Boar’s Head Resort (it was just an “inn” back then, but a very good one, for sure!).

So, about the food. In a word, sublime. The menu had just 12 items, with 10 priced from $6 to $16, plus a foie gras dish and charcuterie and cheese board that cost $26 and $24, respectively. We steered clear of those and eased into the meal with simply prepared crostini with sweet shallot confit balancing the saltiness of quickly sautéed prosciutto and comté cheese. A heartier dish—housemade focaccia with tomato jam (I call it coulis, but whatever) and a generous portion of burrata—stood up well to the rich reds I was drinking. (The 2017 Early Mountain Vineyards Shenandoah Springs cabernet franc was particularly lush, with deep notes of plum and dark berries.)

We moved on to a light transitional dish of local roasted beets, fromage blanc, black walnuts, and triangles of crisp Asian pear. This assemblage was also a study in balance and contrast: earthy beets, milky cheese, semi-sweet pears, and complex foraged black walnut sauce. I also detected a background citrus flavor, which added another note to the layered composition.

I was beginning to wonder if and when chef Moore would falter, but the goodness just kept coming. One dish—chilled shrimp with chimichurri flavored with coriander, dill, and parsley, and dressed with a vinaigrette that had tiny cubes of fresh lime—was bright and mouth-filling. My scribble next to the item on the menu reads simply, “outstanding.”

On the menu: Icelandic Arctic char with chanterelle mushrooms and mustard cream. The fish is dusted with crispy “pebbles” made by boiling, crumbling, and pan-frying potatoes. Photo: Tom McGovern

Moore is committed to buying local whenever possible, and he chose pork belly from Whiffletree Farm, in Warrenton, for the heartiest plate we tried—three slow-cooked slices finished in a frying pan and served with poached Virginia apples, braised red cabbage, peanuts, and a dark brown reduction of sorghum molasses, apple cider, and veal jus. I was surprised by the peanuts—I mean, by how well they went with the pork. Our fish dish was decidedly not local, made with Icelandic arctic char, chanterelles, puréed potato (with veal stock added, for richness), and grainy mustard cream.

I thought Moore had outdone himself, but then came a local pear poached in wine with fall spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, perhaps some allspice), spicy/sweet whipped cream, and a lacy brown crisp made of sorghum.

Moore’s menu is small but complete, and it changes at least weekly, based on seasonal ingredients and the chef’s imagination. By offering fine dining, Early Mountain is signaling its intention to create an elevated food and wine experience. The winery is also rather remote, so visitors tend to spend more time there than they would if they were touring several vineyards, a common practice in areas west or south of Charlottesville. A leisurely afternoon meal makes good sense for guests who carve out hours—or even a full day if they have kids, who can play outdoors on the expansive grounds—to soak up the atmosphere at the property. It’s also worth noting that Early Mountain is one of a growing number of central Virginia wineries placing more emphasis on dining. After all, if it’s within your means, grazing and sipping wine is not a bad way to spend an afternoon.

Categories
Food & Drink Living

Moveable feast: Chasing the food trucks

Little Manila. Photo by Eze Amos.

Food trucks offer some of the most creative and culturally diverse cuisine in town—but they can be elusive. Stumbling upon one is often a happy accident—a bonus while attending a festival or visiting a vineyard. We wanted to see if we could turn that on its head and provide a guide to finding your favorite food trucks—to make discovering them more intentional. We invited about 30 to send us their fall schedules. Fewer than half responded, and many told us they’re mostly booked for private events. It’s good to know that food trucks are flourishing here, even if it means we’re not always on the guest list (sniff). In any case, here’s our well-intentioned but noncomprehensive guide to grabbing food on the go through the end of November.

106 Food Trucks

In 2016, owner/chef Will Cooper rolled out his flagship truck, 106 Street Food, with a mission to shake up the sandwich world with creative variations on traditional favorites (falafel with provolone, pork schnitzel with lemon aioli, and Angus burger with smoked gouda, bacon, and fried egg, to name a few). Since then, Cooper has expanded his fleet to three trucks, each with a different style. 106-street-food.business.site

106 Street Food

American cuisine with international influences—falafel pitas, pork schnitzels, and big burgers.

Saturday, October 19, noon-9pm Bold Rock Hard Cider

Sunday, October 20, 1-7pm, Bald Top Brewing Co.

Wednesday, October 23, noon-6pm, King Family Vineyards

Friday, November 1, 5-11pm, Tomtoberfest

106 Grilled

Pressed sandwiches and paninis, like Cuban and caprese.

Saturday, October 19, noon-9pm, Bold Rock Hard Cider

Friday, October 25, 5-8pm, Starr Hill Brewery

Saturday, October. 26, 11am-9pm, Bold Rock Hard Cider

106 Eastview

Traditional and fusion Japanese fare like okonomiyaki and moco loco.

Saturday, October 19, noon-5pm, DuCard Vineyards

Tuesday, October 23, 5-8pm, Starr Hill Brewery

Friday, October 25, 4-11pm, Bald Top Brewing Co.

Sunday, October 27, noon-6pm, Chisholm Vineyards

 

Angelic’s Mobile Kitchen

Angelic Jenkins has been satisfying customers’ cravings for Southern cooking for five years. Her specialty is fried fish, but her soul food repertoire is complete. You can often find her on weekdays on Pantops Mountain, at 1538 E. High St. Call ahead to see if she’s there. angelicskitchen.com

Saturday, October 26, noon-6pm, Eden Ministries Fall Festival

Tuesday, October 29, 11am-1pm, Dairy Market apartments groundbreaking

Saturday, November 23, 9am-2pm, Cornucopia Festival

 

The Bavarian Chef

The Bavarian Chef has been serving traditional German schnitzel—both veal and pork—in Madison since 1974. Between the home base and the food truck, the restaurant dishes up about 500 schnitzels a week. The food truck menu also includes snacks such as a pretzel with beer cheese and mustard dips, pommes frites, potato pancakes with sour cream, and homemade applesauce—and sausages, lots of sausages! thebavarianchef.com

Saturday, October 26, noon-5pm, Chisholm Vineyards

Saturday, November 2, 9am-6pm, Montpelier Races

Wednesday, November 13, 6-8:30pm, Bald Top Brewing Co.

 

Carpe Donut

“Tender and steamy on the inside, slightly crisped on the outside.” That’s how Carpe Donut describes its apple cider donuts, and it’s on the money. For the better part of 12 years, the family-run business owned by Matt Rohdie and Jen Downie has churned out that singularly delectable donut, offered plain or sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar. But about a year ago, they expanded their offerings to include flavors like toasted coconut and double blueberry. (Carpe Donuts’ brick-and-mortar shop, in the McIntire Shopping Plaza, is open 8am-1pm weekdays.) carpedonut.org

Saturdays, 8am-1pm, at City Market

Wednesday, October 23, 6-10pm, Elvis Costello, Sprint Pavilion

Saturday, November 2, 10am-5pm, Vintage Virginia Apples Annual Harvest Festival

Friday, November 8, 6-10pm, Wilco, Sprint Pavilion

 

Catch the Chef

Chef Tyler Berry is famous for his cheeseburgers, Philly cheesesteaks, Boom Boom Shrimp, and fries with five distinctive toppings (the Baconator, for example). You can often catch Berry’s trucks—he also has a mobile “deli” that features wraps and sandwiches—in the Lowe’s parking lot in Ruckersville. Facebook @catchthechef

Saturday, October 19, noon-3pm, Keswick Vineyards

Sunday, October 20, noon-5pm, Chisholm Vineyards

Saturday, October 26, noon-8pm, Wilderness Run Vineyards

Sunday, October 27, noon-3pm, Keswick Vineyards

 

Farmacy

Wholesome, organic, Mexican-inspired fare by owner Jessica Hogan and her partner/chef Gabino Lino, whose local food experience includes working at Feast! and Beer Run. Our favorite is the Super-Naan Taco (pork al pastor with shredded lettuce and kale, onion, cilantro, feta, and guac, served on garlic naan topped with sour cream and a side of salsa). farmacy.guru

Saturday, October 19, 10am-5pm, Liberty Mills Farm

Friday, October 25, 5-8pm, Pollak Vineyards

Saturday, November 2, 10am-5pm, Albemarle Cider Festival

Saturday, November 16, 11am-5pm, Thomas Jefferson Wine Festival

Friday, November 22, 5-8pm, Glass House Winery

 

Firefly on the Fly

The mobile wing of the restaurant takes its chefs, servers, and menu offerings on the road. And, if the truck’s Facebook feed is any indication, the crew seems to have a lot of fun on these field trips. Daily specials and menu items reflect Firefly’s emphasis on providing vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free options as well as bestsellers like the grass-fed Virginia beef burger. fireflycville.com

Friday, October 18, 5-8pm, The Fralin Museum of Art

Saturday, October 19, noon-4pm, Blenheim Vineyards

Sunday, October 20, noon-4pm, Liberty Mills Farm

Saturday, October 26, 5-8pm, Knight’s Gambit Vineyard

Sunday, October 27, noon-4pm, Liberty Mills Farm

Wednesday, October 30, 5-8pm, King Family Vineyards

Saturday, November 2, 10:30am-5:30pm, ARTCHO

Sunday, November 3, time TBD, Blenheim Vineyards

 

Good Waffles & Co.

Serves just what the name suggests, plus a few things you might not expect. Chicken-N-Waffles? Yes, of course. But also loaded waffle fries, waffle pudding, seasonal soups, and daily specials, and the signature bubble waffles with toppings savory or sweet. Fall desserts include bourbon apple pie—a waffle topped with housemade brown butter bourbon truffle ice cream, sliced apples, caramel sauce, and whipped cream. goodwafflesco.com

Wednesday, October 23, 5-8pm, King Family Vineyards

Saturday, November 2, 10:30am-5:30pm, ARTCHO

Wednesday, November 20, 5-8pm, King Family Vineyards

 

Little Manila

A lot of folks are hungry for the Filipino food Jessica and Fernando Dizon cook up in their truck. Nearly every weekday, you can find them at a lunchtime spot with people lined up for platters of pork or chicken barbecue served with rice, pancit noodles, or lumpia (fried spring roll). Facebook and Instagram @littlemanilacville

Saturday, October 19 and 26, 8am-1pm, City Market

Wednesday, October 23, 6-10pm, Elvis Costello, Sprint Pavilion

Friday, November 1, 5-11pm, Tomtoberfest

Saturday, November 2, 9, 16, 23, and 30, 8am-1pm, City Market

 

The SpiceSea Gourmet

Chef Whitney Matthews’ award-winning food truck is rolling out a cold-weather menu that includes she-crab soup (a secret family recipe), New England clam chowder, soft shell crab po’ boys, and fried lobster mac ‘n’ cheese. spiceseagourmet.com

Friday, October 18, 5:30-8pm, Grace Estate Winery

Saturday, October 19, noon-4pm, Valley Road Vineyards

Friday, October 25, 5-8pm, Decipher Brewing

Saturday, October 26, 5:30-8pm, Grace Estate Winery

Friday, November 1, 5-8pm, Decipher Brewing

 

Wonderment Bakeshop & Creamery

Founder Stephanie Taylor calls herself a “dessert enthusiast,” and credits her parents with encouraging both her sweet tooth and her love of baking from a young age. The goodies she dispenses from her adorable teal blue truck—artisan ice cream sandwiches and homemade pop-tarts—might make you think she’s never grown up. Not that we’re judging. In fact, we’re happy to indulge our inner child—especially with ice cream. Our seasonal favorite is her pumpkin pie in pop-tart form, with flaky crust, perfectly spiced filling, and that familiar brown sugar frosting. Taylor makes everything from scratch: ice cream, cookies, pastry crusts, and fillings. cvillewonderment.com

Saturday, October 19 and 26, 8am-1pm, City Market

Saturday, October 26, noon-6pm, Bold Rock Fall Foliage Festival

Saturday, November 2 and 9, 8am-1pm, City Market

 

Events & Festivals

Eden Ministries Fall Festival

Saturday, October 26, 11am-6pm, Keswick. eden-ministries.com

Bold Rock Fall Foliage Festival

Saturday, October 26, 11am-9pm, Nellysford. boldrock.com

Tomtoberfest

Friday, November 1, IX Art Park. tomtomfest.com

ARTCHO

Saturday, November 2, 10:30am-5:30pm, IX Art Park. artcho.org

Montpelier Races

Saturday, November 2, 9am-6pm, James Madison’s Montpelier, Montpelier Station. montpelier.org

Vintage Virginia Apples Annual Harvest Festival

Saturday, November 2, 10am-5pm, Albemarle CiderWorks, North Garden. albemarleciderworks.com

Thomas Jefferson Wine Festival

Saturday, November 16, 11am-5pm, Thomas Jefferson’s Poplar Forest, Forest. poplarforest.org

Cornucopia Festival

Saturday, November 23, 9am-2pm, Louisa. Search for “cornucopia” on eventbrite.com

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Food & Drink Living

Taco love: A food truck date night

Photo: Eze Amos

Living in Gordonsville while working in Charlottesville, as my girlfriend and I did for many months, had a certain romance to it. With the windows down and fresh air swirling inside the car, we enjoyed the winding morning commute through fields of grazing cattle and sheep. After nightfall, when we returned
to the old dairy farm where we rented a cottage, the darkness became so inky that we couldn’t see a
hand inches from our face, and the night sky was a shimmery blanket of stars.

But after a while, other things seemed as distant as constellations, and not romantic in the least. With no washer or dryer in our cute little rental, we resorted to the grungy laundromat nine miles away. The local restaurants were sparse and stopped serving early, so we often concocted our evening meal from whatever we found in the fridge. And driving the 50 miles round-trip every day turned from delightful to tedious.

A few months of this pushed us to the edge. We’re city folks at heart, so we were accustomed to easier access to laundry and food. Imagine our surprise (and joy!) when we found both in one place.

Hydraulic Wash, near The Shops at Stonefield, is all you can ask for in a laundromat: clean, well-lit, never
a wait for machines, and great people-watching. The major bonus is El Tako Nako, the food truck tucked
into a corner of the parking lot. It’s open from 5pm until midnight every day except Wednesday (when it’s closed), and it spawned a happy, cheap-and-cheerful tradition for us: date night at the laundromat.

Of course, we weren’t the only ones taking part in the suds-and-grub ritual. Many people lined up at
the window to place orders and, minutes later, pick up a plate of double-tortilla tacos and maybe a tall bottle of Mexican Coke, which tastes better than the domestic stuff because it’s sweetened with cane sugar instead of corn syrup. The smell of ingredients sizzling on the grill and the sound of Mexican pop music poured out of the truck. Customers—white, Latinx, African American—shared the metal picnic tables. Day workers with sturdy boots and dirty clothes stopped by to pick up bags of tacos to go.
As my girlfriend and I scarfed our chicken tacos—
always chicken, even though the menu also includes beef and lengua and chorizo—I imagined families seated at the kitchen table or in front of the television doing the same thing.

There is something reassuring about tacos. Because they’re cheap ($3 apiece at El Tako Nako), you feel virtuously frugal. The ones we ordered—served simply with caramelized onions, freshly chopped onions, cilantro, and a squeeze of lime—were consistently good, a welcome break from grazing out of our refrigerator at home. The setting at the laundromat, with people of all ages and various ethnicities eating
in the glow of fluorescent light at the edge of the asphalt parking lot, felt just right.

In Gordonsville, we experienced the romance of life in the country. In the city, we found a more grounded and social kind of romanticism. Ultimately, we gravitated to the latter, leaving our rural nest and moving into a house near West Main Street. We have our own washer/dryer now, so those date nights at
the laundromat are a thing of the past. But every now and then, we’ll remember our ritual and inevitably say, “Wasn’t that great?”

El Tako Nako, 2405 Hydraulic Rd., 305-8918, bit.ly/2ooRykj

Categories
Food & Drink Living

New to you: A flurry of restaurant openings spices up the local dining scene

The food at Comal is inspired by the owner's youth in Oaxaca, in southern Mexico. Photo by Amy and Jackson Smith.

Comal

After 16 years as a manager at Mas Tapas, Benos Bustamante launched Comal, an authentic Mexican restaurant, in the former Belmont Barbecue space. Just a couple of weeks after opening, Bustamante and his team are already hitting their stride. The menu marries fine dining with traditional flavors from Mexico, specifically Oaxaca, where he was born and raised. A recent meal included slow-cooked pork tenderloin tamales with a garlic sauce and green salsa, pan-seared salmon tacos with pico de gallo and guacamole mousse, seared shrimp with a purée of roasted black beans and avocado leaves (they taste a bit like basil), and silky braised pork ribs with guajillo mole and queso fresco from Caromont Farms. The core of the menu consists of food from Bustamante’s youth, with some dishes prepared from his grandmother’s recipes. One C-VILLE Weekly editor who knows her way around a kitchen says the mole negro con pollo is the best dish she’s eaten in recent memory. The presentation is meticulous and artful, the dining room small and colorful—and Bustamante’s pride in his staff so great that it literally brings him to tears.—Joe Bargmann

816 Hinton Ave., 328-2519, comalcville.com

 

BLU Point Seafood Co.

The latest addition to Staunton’s restaurant scene is a tribute to coastal foodways in the mid-Atlantic and New England. The concept came as the founders of New Southern staple, Zynodoa, contemplated gaps in area offerings.

“We spend a lot of time vacationing on the coast,” says owner Jeff Goode. “We missed those tastes—but you couldn’t get quality, sustainably caught seafood in town. And we wanted to fill that niche.” The couple purchased and spent eight months renovating a vacant downtown building, and BLU Point opened in early October.

On the menu: New England lobster rolls, boutique Chesapeake Bay oysters, and teriyaki-style tuna steaks paired with Shenandoah Valley produce. The ambiance? Think upscale family dining on the Outer Banks.—Eric Wallace

123 W. Beverly St., Staunton, (540) 712-0291, blupointseafoodco.com

The food at Kama is inspired by chef Peter Robertson’s love of Japanese cuisine. Photo by Tom McGovern.

Kama

Diners may be momentarily perplexed by Kama’s tagline, “improvised Japanese cuisine.” But once they’re seated at the restaurant, on the ground floor of the Violet Crown cinema, the title will seem less important than what ends up on the plate: inventive cooking by chef Peter Robertson, whose yen for Asian food—in particular, Japanese—was nurtured by years of eating Eastern fare in Manhattan.

Robertson is best known for Côte Rôtie, the food truck that he and his wife, Merrill, launched after moving here from Water Mill, New York, where their 12-seat restaurant won critical acclaim.

Earlier this year, Will Richey of Ten Course Hospitality approached Robertson, asking whether he’d like to change up the menu at the Violet Crown—but the chef demurred. He had established the Japanese-inflected menu at North American Sake Brewery and Restaurant and wanted to continue on that path.

In time, the chef’s passion won over Richey and Violet Crown owner Bill Banowsky, who gave Robertson the tools to follow his instincts—and hired an A-team to back him in the kitchen and manage the restaurant and bar.

Kama’s early reviews have been good to glowing. Diners have applauded familiar Japanese fare such as udon noodles with pork and vegetables in broth, lightly battered fried chicken, and seared sushi-grade fish. There’s also duck breast and rib-eye cooked on the wood-fired grill, and adventurous dishes like the one made with fish heads. The restaurant is an education in Japanese flavors, and an ambitious choice for a Charlottesville restaurant. Here’s to Robertson, for expanding our culinary vocabulary.—J.B.

200 W. Main St., Downtown Mall, 529-3015, kamacville.com

 

Jack’s Shop Kitchen

We were disappointed when this airy Ruckersville space was vacated earlier this year by chef Eric Bein’s Jack’s Shop Kitchen. Now, we’re happy to report that Bein is back, joining forces with Allan and Naomi Green, new partners who had dined at Jack’s in 2018, met the chef, and returned to settle down nearby and raise their family.

It’s a homecoming for Allan, who grew up in Fredericksburg and graduated from James Madison University before moving to Long Island, New York, to put his degree in hospitality and tourism to work. There, he met Naomi, who also works in the business. “They came to us with great interest and experience,” Bein says of the Greens. “We’re looking forward to moving ahead and growing together.” That growth includes ramping up production at Bein’s farm in Madison to provide hyperlocal ingredients.

Breakfast and lunch are now served seven days a week, but Jack’s will soon also offer dinner Thursday through Sunday. The evening menu will carry over the daily light fare—housemade soups, salads, sandwiches, and burgers—but add Southern entrées such as waffles and fried chicken and shrimp and grits.—J.B.

14843 Spotswood Tr., Ruckersville. 939-9239, jacksshopkitchen.com

 

Categories
Food & Drink Living

New whiskies in town

Signs that fall is just around the corner: cool evenings, colorful leaves, and last but certainly not least, whiskey! But this is not Kentucky, so we’re not talking bourbon. Two new releases of locally distilled single-malt whiskey are available now. Spirit Lab Distilling, a little warehouse shop on Sixth Street SE, presents the fifth annual batch of its prized liquor. We tried it, and we liked it very much. Made entirely in Charlottesville by husband-and-wife team Ivar Aass and Sarah Barrett, the pot-stilled whiskey takes on notes of dried fruit, toffee, cocoa, and baking spices (think pumpkin pie) in a maturation process that includes American oak as well as port and sherry-wine finishing barrels. It’s costly, at $88.99 and $46.99 for a full or half bottle, respectively, but with a limited release of just over 150 units combined, the run is bound to sell out (as it has in years past). Pick yours up at Spirit Lab—look for the red door at 1503 6th St. SE.

Meanwhile, Lovingston’s Virginia Distillery Company announced the September 1 release of its own single-malt whisky (the company’s preferred spelling). Called “Prelude: Courage & Conviction,” the sweater-weather libation—aged in bourbon, sherry, and cuvée wine casks, costs $69.99 a bottle and is available at the distillery or online. www.vadistillery.com

Food for good

An all-star lineup of about 20 local food and drink purveyors are gearing up for a major annual event benefiting Meals on Wheels of Charlottesville/Albemarle. Taste This! takes place September 24 at the fancy-pants Club at Glenmore, offering a feast presented by Chimm Thai and Southeast Asian, The Ivy Inn, Junction, Little Star, MarieBette, Market Street Wine, Oakhart Social, Prime 109, and Tavola, with cash-bar offerings by Early Mountain and Veritas vineyards, Random Row Brewing Co., and The Alley Light. It’s great to see a lineup like that—including many Best of C-VILLE 2019 winners and runners-up—coming together for a good cause. Tickets are $75, and they sell like hotcakes. Visit cvilletastethis.com.

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Best of C-VILLE 2019

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Cream-colored curtains add a soft touch to pool-side lounging at The Clifton. Photo: Ashley Cook

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Best of C-VILLE 2019

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Saunders-Monticello Trail offers a nice stroll through the woods to and from Thomas Jefferson’s home. Photo: Skyclad Aerial

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