Category: Food & Drink

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Culture Food & Drink

Terroir Tapes Listening Sessions—Act II

Supplied photo.

Exploring geographies that produce distinctive flavors, the Terroir Tapes Listening Sessions—Act II blends hip-hop history with wine-tasting in a bold and vibrant manner. Hosted by Emmy Award-nominee Jermaine Stone of the Wine and Hip Hop podcast, the sessions inform guests of the environmental factors responsible for shaping the flavor profile of a particular wine region, while also discussing the characteristics of classic hip-hop regions. Local chef Antwon Brinson of Culinary Concepts AB provides small bites to complement the selection of Virginia wines sampled during this Two Up Wine Down festival event.

Friday 11/1. $25, 6pm. Jefferson School African American Heritage Center, 233 Fourth St. NW. twoupwinedown.com 

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Culture Food & Drink

Pi-Napo delivers the hot, crusty pride of Naples to Fry’s Spring

Pi-Napo’s Pomodori features fresh cherry Vesuvian tomato, buffalo mozzarella, basil, and garlic. Photo by BJ Poss.

Naples, Italy, the pizza capital of the world, is sprinkled with more than 800 pizzerias, with styles varying from the thin ruota di carretto to a denser crust-forward a canotto. And all still uphold the Neapolitan spirit in the harmony of ripe tomato, fragrant basil, and the kneading of the dough. It was on a trip to Naples that Onur Basegmez found inspiration in a pie whose essence would become the dough that rose into Pi-Napo, Fry’s Spring’s slice of Napoli.

“We are not just selling pizza,” Basegmez insists, standing over buckets of spicy Italian salami and cherry Vesuvian tomatoes. “We are selling a cheap flight to Italy.” 

Pi-Napo has revitalized the old Fry’s Spring Station into an open-kitchen pizzeria of twirling dough, imported gelato, and handmade cannoli. It’s equipped with two Italian pizza ovens made of volcanic ash, which maintain a temperature of more than 800 degrees. These ovens, smoldering with local white oak and hickory, impart a crusty spice on artisan pizza delivered to the table in sold-by-the-slice time.

Basegmez’s philosophy is rooted in the idea that no matter how you dress it, pizza is a simple dish that leans on quality ingredients and attention to detail. “I don’t eat pizza every day, but I taste pizza every day,” he grins. 

Through several trips eating along the narrow streets of Italy, Basegmez and his Italian partner tinkered with the nuances of hand-crushed sauces to craft a menu that your Nonna would be proud of. “Pizza must be balanced,” he says, with a touch of spice, the subtle sweetness of a sauce, and not too loaded with toppings that it buries the delicacy of the crust.

Pi-Napo’s caprese. Photo by BJ Poss.

Pi-Napo’s menu offers a dozen pies, and a beautiful dollop of buffalo mozzarella drizzled with olive oil, basil, and cherry tomato. The pizzas range from mushroom with white truffle to spicy Italian salami and Calabrian peppers, with a nod to Basegmez’s choice—a classic margherita with a sprinkle of garlic and cherry tomato. The restaurant has 10-inch pizzas during the week as a lunch special and shifts to strictly 16-inch sheet pan pies on Saturdays and Sundays. 

Along with a wheel of Italian gelato, Pi-Napo leans on an in-house family recipe to stuff the cannoli that anchor the dessert window. “We’re bringing Italy to town,” says Basegmez. 

If you drove through the Fry’s Spring neighborhood in late August, you might have noticed Basegmez. On Pi-Napo’s opening weekend, he stood at the traffic lights between Pi-Napo and Dürty Nelly’s and handed out free slices to passersby. “We want to be a part of the neighborhood,” Basegmez says. He appreciates the history of Fry’s Spring Station, standing since 1933, and revels in customers who share that they used to get their oil changed right where the two-ton wood fired pizza ovens now sit.

Pi-Napo has hit its stride on weekdays and game days. Just a walk from Scott Stadium, it’s already served as a rain shelter for a stormy home game and routinely shows Euro-league soccer on screens throughout the restaurant. In the coming months, the kitchen team is looking to add pizza-making classes to spread the joy of 0/0 flour blanketed in ladles of Mutti crushed tomatoes.

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Culture Food & Drink

Blue Moon going dark, Umma miss you, and donuts on a roll

Blue Moon Diner’s Laura Galgano announced that she (along with partner Rice Hall) is closing the beloved food and music venue on November 27. Photo by Eze Amos.

Dine and out

Blue Moon Diner has us feeling, well, blue with the news of its closure after 18 memorable years. Owners Laura Galgano and Rice Hall announced on social media that they are closing the beloved diner, with its last day of service on November 27. 

More than just a restaurant, Blue Moon Diner became a community hub. In a recent Facebook post, Galgano reflected on the special moments shared there—from being the birthplace of CLAW (Charlottesville Lady Arm Wrestlers) to hosting live music and serving as a backdrop for films and music videos. 

Famous for breakfast favorites like towering stacks of pancakes and the savory, melty Huevos BlueMooños, along with classic diner treats like pie slices, shakes, and floats, Blue Moon also offered standout non-alcoholic drinks such as the No­No Negroni, Sober Storm, and Love on the Pebbled Beach. 

Through every coffee poured, song played, and connection made, Blue Moon lived out its mission: to welcome guests, nourish bodies, comfort spirits, and strengthen community through food and music. 

After two flavorful years, Umma’s officially closed its doors following its final dinner service on September 21. Celebrated as a safe haven for the LGBTQ+ community and home to unforgettable dance parties (remember that time the bathroom sink came off the wall—but someone left a note and cash to cover it?), Umma’s was more than just a restaurant—it was a place filled with love, connection, and the kind of community that took care of each other.

Stonefield’s Duck Donuts is temporarily closed due to staffing issues. Originating in the Outer Banks, Duck Donuts is renowned for its generous saccharine toppings, held up by donuts. 

Now open

While Duck Donuts takes a breather, everyone’s flocking to Sbrocco’s Donuts & Espresso to satisfy their sweet tooth. Opened September 27 in the former Anna’s Pizza spot in Fry’s Spring, Sbrocco’s pairs playful decor—Tiffany-style pendant lights, blue subway tiles, and a bold red spotted wall with a neon “donuts, donuts, donuts” sign perfect for selfies—with a menu worth the hype.

Owner Melissa Sbrocco teamed up with MarieBette Café & Bakery’s Jason Becton and Patrick Evans to round out Charlottesville’s pastry offerings. The menu features both yeast and cake donuts made with MarieBette’s signature brioche, milk bread doughs, and more. Highlights include the crumb bun—a nod to Carlo’s Bakery in Hoboken and a tribute to Jason’s grandmother’s favorite treat. They call their simple vanilla bean-glazed donut “the benchmark for a donut shop,” designed to showcase the quality of their recipes and ingredients. Don’t miss the seasonal offerings, including decadent maple bars.

Milli Coffee Roasters’ old roasting machine has a new master roaster at the helm: Kitty Ashi, known for her successful Thai restaurants across the area. 

Camellias Bar & Roastery in the former Milli space takes its name from the flower symbolizing love, desire, and excellence, reflecting the care Ashi pours into every detail of her new cafe. Alongside housemade sourdough, focaccia, and pastries, expect unique offerings like the Ube Croissant, a sweet purple treat topped with a white chocolate and gruyère glaze. The creative, Thai-inspired drinks include the Cha-Choc—a bright orange Thai tea topped with whipped chocolate. 

After much anticipation, four pizza-loving brothers—who are not named Leonardo, Donatello, Raphael, or Michelangelo—have finally opened Pi Napo in the former Fry’s Spring Station location. 

Italian-trained chef Hunter Baseg ensures that the menu features a DOP-certified Margherita pizza, made with imported flour, cheese, and sauce from Italy, along with a rotating selection of nine other unique pies. The menu rounds out with homemade cannoli and a gelato carousel. Look out, Dr. Ho’s, Lampo, and Slice Versa: These guys are here to compete for a slice of the pie!

Little Manila Resto has officially opened its doors at 814 Cherry Ave., taking over the former Arepas on Wheels location after the Venezuelan restaurant upgraded to a larger space in June. Previously operating out of various locations throughout the week, Little Manila has been serving the community since 2014, and will continue to offer its services for events and private parties. 

Some of this, some of that

Lance Lemon and Reggie Leonard, prominent figures on the Virginia wine scene, have teamed up to create something truly unique: The Parallax Project. Known for their passion and dedication to inclusivity, Lance brings his expertise from Richmond-based Penny’s Wineshop, while Reggie champions underrepresented voices in the industry through Oenoverse. 

As part of the Common Wealth Crush incubator, they’re crafting two incredible wines, “What’s This” and “What’s That,” showcasing the magic of the same grapes—tannat, chardonel, vidal blanc, and a touch of petit manseng, albariño, and traminette—transformed into red and white varieties.

Why Parallax? Lemon and Leonard utilized the Greek word parallaxis, meaning alteration or change, to represent shifting perspectives both in the wine they’re making and the wine community as a whole. Support their GoFundMe campaign to cover production costs for the first vintage and help bring more diverse winemaking to the table.

Indulge and give back

Do you have $1,815 burning a hole in your pocket? Book your spot at Harvesting Hope this November 8-10 at Keswick Hall, where a weekend of exquisite dining awaits. With proceeds benefiting No Kid Hungry, you’ll indulge in a champagne reception and a six-course dinner at Marigold, prepared by Michelin-starred chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, with access to the resort’s amenities, including an 18-hole golf course, spa, pool, and fitness center.

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Culture Food & Drink

Chicken scratched and reborn, plus some Napa Valley cachet

Charcoal-roasted chicken has two locations under different names since Al Carbon on Route 29 flew the coop. Photo by Tom McGovern.

New name, same flame

The charcoal-roasted chicken artists in the Route 29 kitchen formerly known as Al Carbon are asking to be called El Tizon. According to owner Claudio Hernandez, “Only the name has changed, not the fine quality food which we have always served and will continue to serve.”

Yelper Duane Z. clears up the confusion: “Someone marked the Google page ‘permanently closed,’ but this is not correct,” they write on the restaurant review site. “The partners had a dispute and split the two restaurants in Charlottesville. The operator of El Tizon has been the main manager since its inception and will continue serving the very best food you’re used to, with new and exciting additions to the menu.”

To further add and/or clear up confusion, the second Al Carbon location at 5th Street Station retains the original name, and handles all online orders for its mouthwatering Peruvian chicken. So, keep calm and pollo on—because the flavors you love aren’t going anywhere. We think.

Top of the Early Mountain

Jon Ruel, a leader from Napa Valley’s Trefethen Family Vineyards is Early Mountain Vineyards’ new president, and he brings a wealth of West Coast experience to Virginia’s wine scene. Ruel’s interest in EMV was sparked during a blind tasting where he sampled the Madison vineyard’s wines alongside Napa Valley selections. “I believe that this pioneering region, the talented team, and the unique terroir at Early Mountain have all the qualities to produce wines and experiences that can break through with wine-loving consumers worldwide,” Ruel said in a press release.

Ruel will make a sublime pairing with winemaker Maya Hood White, who was recently nominated for Winemaker of the Year by Wine Enthusiast Magazine and whose Quaker Run chardonnay was named one of the Top 100 Wines of the USA by wine critic James Suckling.

Sip and support

The first rule of wine club? Talk about wine club! Eastwood Farm & Winery, a women-owned, multi-generational winery and innovative wine incubator is excited to introduce the Winemakers Wine Club. Members will receive four quarterly shipments and exclusive perks like guided tastings. Choose from mixed, all red, or all white wines at sign up. If you’re a killjoy and don’t like bubbles, you can opt out of sparkling wines via email.

The club supports Eastwood’s Barrels & Tanks winemaker incubator, championing the future of Virginia wine. And don’t miss each allocation’s Tasha’s Pick, which features selections from seed-stage winemaker Tasha Durrett. Her own creations are coming soon! 

Restaurantarama 

With several leases expiring and the challenge of finding the right fit for the food hall vibe, Dairy Market bid farewell to Citizen Burger Stand, 434th Street, Al Basha, Grn Burger, and South and Central.

Opening soon are Currylicious, serving up Nepalese and Indian street food, and Sizzle Shack, a new burger spot. With two burger counters leaving (plus Bach, see below), what’s going to make Sizzle Shack sizzle? Sample it and email us your dining feedback.

Additionally, the market is prepping for a smoothie spot, a coffee-shop-and-bakery combo, and an unnamed diner-tainment venue with games such as pool and darts. More good news: free parking.

Kylie Britt and Tiffany Nguyen welcome you to Ethos Wine & Tea. Sip a diverse selection of natural, local, and innovative wines including Britt’s top Shenandoah Valley cab franc and riesling. For those who prefer tea, Nguyen’s favorite genmaicha provides a nutty, bright flavor whether served hot or iced. Complement your drinks with panini on Cou Cou Rachou English muffins and a variety of desserts from Splendora’s.

South Paddock Winery, part of Whitehall Farm’s expansive 310 acres within the Monticello AVA, celebrated a soft opening on August 10. This all-season venue features a vineyard producing cabernet franc, petit verdot, and chardonnay, and also equestrian experiences with Rock Branch Horse and Cattle, which operates the Whitehall Stable.

After a dramatic start involving alleged arson that damaged their Vocelli Pizza, Kellie and Brian Washington rebounded swiftly by opening Roux St. Cafe in the Woodbrook Shopping Center in August. This new eatery serves made-from-scratch Cajun Creole cuisine and caused Redditor WHSRWizard to rave, “This is what the Good Lord intended when he invented shrimp and grits.”

Diilishus Fish & Chik’n will bring soul food to the former Mel’s Cafe location, which closed following owner Mel Walker’s passing in May. Cathy and D Jones are set to open the doors of their Black-owned business in early October, offering a menu of Southern comfort foods.

Burger Bach at Stonefield hosted its final Happy Hour on the Lawn on August 31 before shutting down in early September. The Short Pump location has also closed, directing customers to its remaining Carytown, Midlothian, and Durham, North Carolina, spots.

Lumberjacks, lagers, and lederhosen

On October 4, Devils Backbone Brewing Company moves its Oktoberfest to The Backyard in Charlottesville, where festivities include stein-hoisting contests, a two-pound pretzel-eating contest and live music. Feast on classic fare like smoked Vienna Lager brats with braised kraut and Vienna Lager beer mustard on a toasted bun. Prost!

Categories
Culture Food & Drink

Carter Mountain Orchard’s fall food offerings come with a sunset

Fall food trucks line up at Carter Mountain Orchard though mid-November. Check the website for details. Photo by Martyn Kuyle.

It’s crazy that I worked at Monticello for seven years but never visited Carter Mountain Orchard until recently. I’ve had the apple cider donuts (worth the hype), but haven’t gone apple picking or to an event there. As the weather cools and the call of pumpkin-spice everything drifts to us on the autumn breeze, it seemed like a good time to check out the orchard. My original plan was to dig in at a
Fall Food Truck event, but instead I caught one of the season’s last Thursday Evening Sunset Series shows, which also feature offerings from food trucks, plus live music.

Upon arrival, I remembered why I’d never gone to a big gathering at Carter Mountain: my intense dislike of large crowds. Don’t get me wrong, the vast majority of folks in attendance were having a lovely time. I’m an ambivert, meaning I’ve got both extroverted and introverted traits. As I’ve entered my midlife renaissance (read: crisis), I’ve realized more and more that I refuel with alone time and that crowds
are not for me. Despite my social anxiety, I enjoyed a delicious meal along with a view that will only get more dazzling in the coming weeks as the fall colors grace the mountains yet again.—Kristie Smeltzer

What

Sampling food truck fare at Carter Mountain Orchard.

Why

Because enjoying a delicious meal without having to do dishes is awesome.

How It Went

Great—it’s hard to go wrong with ooey-gooey melted cheese. The view: a bonus.

The drive into the orchard from the Route 53 entrance follows a winding road that requires an attentive driver. If you’re visiting for a boozy event, I recommend using a rideshare app or having a trusted designated driver in your party. The path in creates a sense of arrival, of leaving the world behind as nature surrounds you. When I arrived, cars were waiting in a long line to get to the parking area.

Once parked, I noticed the entrance buzzing with activity. If you like that Fridays After Five feel, you likely love the Thursday Evening Sunset Series. The last one is on September 26, but the series resumes in the spring. 

Weekend visits to Carter Mountain during the busy apple-picking season require a ticket for entry, but on weekdays, folks can enjoy the fall food trucks and views between 11am and 3pm without a ticket (looking at you, introverts). The orchard’s country store and bakery offer picked fruit, plus a range of snacking goodies.

At the food truck area, I beelined straight for Raclette on the Run. I’d heard great things about the vendor and I was hangry. Raclette is a Swiss cheese usually served by heating it and scraping off the delicious melty bits to use in dishes. As I stood in line surrounded by jovial UVA students wearing sundresses and cowboy boots, I felt a little ashamed of my enthusiasm watching the cheese porn as the truck’s servers scraped hot raclette off a half-wheel of cheese. I thoroughly enjoyed The Classic, made with Vermont cheddar on hearty white bread with bacon. All the food truck’s sandwiches come with crunchy, salty, delicious tater tots. Yum!

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Culture Food & Drink

Women gather to set a new vision for Virginia’s wine industry

Virginia Women in Wine, a new organization of wine professionals led by Nancy Bauer, finds answers through community. VWW is dedicated to creating the change, support, and resources necessary for women in the Virginia wine industry to thrive. Supplied photo.

The journey to establish Virginia Women in Wine began five years ago with a series of informal get-togethers spearheaded by food and travel writer Nancy Bauer. The gatherings of women who shared a passion for Virginia’s wine industry but found themselves unfamiliar with, or disconnected from, one another grew, and Bauer remembers the moment when the potential for something greater became clear to her. It was during discussions about challenges facing the industry that it dawned on her that “all the answers were in the room.” 

The idea that their informal network should be formalized into a nonprofit entity soon emerged. “It became kind of a running joke,” Bauer says. “Shannon [Horton of Horton Vineyards] would always yell across the room, ‘Nancy, you really need to turn this into a 501(c)(3),’ and I’d yell back, ‘Shannon, you have fun with that.’”

On August 6, Virginia Women in Wine, led by Bauer as the organization’s first president, attracted more than 160 attendees for its launch at Eastwood Farm Winery. The event underscores the excitement and support for empowering women in Virginia’s growing wine industry through innovative media and marketing strategies, community-building, networking, leadership development, and promoting career advancement and equity.

Ultimately, a lunch meeting with Horton and Megan Hereford, co-owner of Stuart, Virginia-based Daring Wine & Cider Co., convinced Bauer to move forward. She drafted a grant proposal for the Virginia Wine Board. The proposal was not funded, but it did spark the formation of a dedicated group of women. 

“I invited all the women who had ever been to one of our dinners or showed any interest in the idea to put their names on the proposal—50 women signed,” Bauer recalls. This list became the foundation of the organization’s inaugural board, which includes 14 members supported by an additional nine committee members and volunteers.

Bauer estimates that 6,000 or more women are employed in the Virginia wine industry and recognizes that they face some unique challenges. As VWW interviewed individuals to develop an upcoming white paper, issues such as pay inequity, lack of respect, and equipment not designed for women emerged. Additionally, child-care challenges are significant, especially during back to school time, which coincides with the start of grape harvest.

Stephanie Pence, co-owner of Brix & Columns Vineyard in McGaheysville, highlights some of these unique challenges, noting that physical size and strength can sometimes require creative workarounds. She says there is often a reaction of surprise when she’s seen driving her tractor, sometimes in a dress, or arriving to unload pallets from a truck. “I’ve received comments like, ‘I thought you were getting your husband to unload this,’” she recalls. For Pence, such moments underscore the importance of community among women in the industry, for bonding and for problem-solving.

This sentiment is echoed by Seidah Armstrong, owner of Unionville’s Sweet Vines Farm Winery, who says, “I love the fact that VWW is essentially saying, ‘Hey, we see you and we support you!’” She notes that there are often isolated parts of the profession where collaboration is limited. VWW can reduce these workplace silos to foster more connection and resources. 

“As a former K-12 administrator, I see continuing education opportunities as a huge challenge for women in the industry,” says Armstrong. “VWW will work to make educational opportunities available for women as they navigate key Virginia-specific issues such as the impact of introducing new varietals or working on creative ways to grow tourism and clientele.”

Athena Eastwood, owner of Eastwood Farm and Winery, emphasizes the significance of representation at all levels, including leadership. “I think it’s important for people to be able to look out and see faces like theirs doing the things they dream of doing,” says Eastwood. “It makes it easier to imagine that you can do it too. When you are a woman just getting started, whether you are working in the cellar or serving on a board for the first time, having another woman in the room or at the table with you can be invaluable.”

Reflecting on the importance of formally organizing as a group, Bauer notes, “This board has reminded me how much more you can get done when you work together.” Admitting that she is “smitten” with the new challenge, she finds the prospect that Virginia Women in Wine might outlast her “pretty exciting.”

For more information or to become a member, visit virginiawomeninwine.com.

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Culture Food & Drink

No need for quirky twists, we are crushing it

SuperFly Brewing Co. took third place at the Virginia Beer Cup for its Midnight Train English Porter. Photo by Eze Amos.

New owners, new name

The Quirk Richmond’s now-estranged cousin has rebranded as The Doyle. Evoking thoughts of grandma’s doilies and that kid from third grade, the new name is a bit opaque. Could it be someone’s last name? Perhaps the new logo—an alert greyhound—offers a clue.

For now, Blue Suede Hospitality, which acquired the property for $24 million, has left us guessing. While the hotel’s sleek and chic interior and characteristically pink design currently remain unchanged, the dining options have undergone a name-lift. Now managed by Sizzling Steak Concepts, a Ruth’s Chris Steak House franchise group, the rooftop bar, formerly Q Rooftop, is now simply Rooftop Charlottesville. The Pink Grouse? Aptly named Lobby Bar and Restaurant. And the café is now just …The Café. However, the adjacent bar, once known as Bobboo, has a slightly spicier title: The Speakeasy + Whiskey Bar. At least with such straightforward names, guests won’t be left scratching their heads.

Winner winner

Round one of The Virginia Cocktail Games has wrapped up, and while finalist Chetta Vilaicharoentrakul of Monsoon Siam didn’t clinch the “Glorious Victory” with his namesake drink, we head into the final showdown at Virginia Distilled on September 14, raising our glasses to Breannah Carr of Devils Backbone Brewing Company and her gin sour-inspired creation, Pour l’amour du Gin.

SuperFly-ing high

Not even a year old, SuperFly Brewing Co. gained recognition in the local beer scene by taking third place for Best in Show at the Virginia Beer Cup with its Midnight Train English Porter.

Other Charlottesville winners include South Street Brewery, which claimed first place in the European Sours category with its gose/wit hybrid, Slippery When Wit, and second place in American Lagers/Light Lagers for its C’ville Bilsner. Decipher Brewing also brought home first place in European Lagers with its Snowball’s Chance Munich Helles.

Top shop

Crush Pad Wines is proving that Virginia truly is for wine lovers. In early August, USA Today announced its Readers’ Choice 2024 10 Best, and Charlottesville’s Crush Pad secured the fifth spot on the list of top 10 wine shops in the U.S.

Described by USA Today as “an upscale shop with a fabulous selection of fine wines curated by Charlottesville’s most experienced wine buyers,” Crush Pad’s wine bar and bistro is nestled in the heart of the historic Downtown Mall. 

Now open

Mejicali, the newest culinary gem from The Bebedero partner River Hawkins, is more than just a restaurant—it’s a work of art. Hawkins has filled the space with colorful murals that add an edgy flair to your dining experience.

Opened in late July, the vibrant restaurant showcases meticulous attention to detail, from humble handmade tortillas to artfully crafted cocktails. Be sure to try the Cilantrojito, a standout cocktail featuring Madre mezcal, sambuca, butterfly pea flower tea, and, of course, cilantro. 

A short walk from UVA Grounds, Clubhouse Cafe opened in mid-June in a charming converted house. The cafe’s name is inspired by owner Shayne Shiflett’s time as a Virginia Glee Club member.

The cozy spot offers an all-day lunch menu that features 25 UVA-themed sandwich options, along with breakfast choices to kickstart your day. And don’t miss the freshly baked cookies for a sweet treat.

Closing 

Was it the weekly $1 oyster happy hour deal that did it? South and Central announced it will close at the end of August after three years of crafting dishes around Latin American culinary traditions.

The Dairy Market eatery attracted fine-dining patrons with its bright, clean aesthetic and dishes prepared over an open flame. As we say goodbye, the big question is: What’s next for Chef Kelvino Barrera? Perhaps more culinary adventures with food event group C-ville Bites where he’s been known to host classes. 

Time to veg

Get ready to feast without the beast! VegFest is back on September 15 at Ix Art Park with all the plant-powered goodness you can handle. Whether you’re there for vendor Botanical Fare’s Taco Bell dupes (hello, Crunchwrap Supreme featuring Impossible meat and cashew sour cream) or Cake Pop’s (hopefully vegan) drag show, there’s something for everyone.

Expect inspiring talks from physicians, animal advocates, and plant-based restaurant owners, plus live music, cooking demos, and even a vegan pie-eating contest. Throw in some yoga and kids’ activities, and you’ve got a fun-filled day—no meat required!—Sarah Golibart Gorman

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Culture Food & Drink

A reintroduction to Ace Biscuit & Barbecue

The Ol’ Dirty Biscuit is a crispy chicken, gravy, pickle, and pimento cheese combo that’s landed Ace Biscuit & Barbecue on the foodie swoon list. Photo by BJ Poss.

By BJ Poss

Barbecue is nestled as deep in Charlottesville’s roots as any homemade brine. You’d be hard-pressed to find a self-respecting plate of pork barbecue in Virginia that didn’t start out submerged in coarse salt dissolved in water full of sugar, spices, and citrus zest, a chef’s emulsion that absorbs into the meat and, when touched with smoke and fire, blooms into a succulent delight.

One player, noticeably absent on the smokin’ scene, returned last month after an unfortunate hiatus: Ace Biscuit & Barbecue is back to serving the heart of Virginia barbecue classics with a kiss of the South.

Ace shut its doors in late March 2024 after being vandalized beyond the point of recognition. The vandal (who was fittingly charged and sentenced on the day of the restaurant’s re-opening), did $50,000 of damages to wiring, fryers, and flooring—and even the toilets took a beating. To top it off, an eye got smashed out of a portrait of Hunter S. Thompson that, if we’re being honest, would likely earn a smirk from HST himself.

With the kitchen intact again and the dining room close behind, Ace is prepping out a full menu, showing that Southern gastronomy far exceeds crispy lard and baked buttermilk. “Southern food should pull out a memory,” says Ace manager Scott Hewitt. “It isn’t simple; it’s science.”

Ace’s kitchen culture relies on the creativity of the staff to treat the menu as a conversation rather than a rulebook. “We’re all chefs, and we’re all artists,” Hewitt declares. Art plays a role in layering flavor and texture in each dish. Look to Ace classics like the Ol’ Dirty Biscuit—southern fried chicken dripping in sauce gravy, cut with acidic, crisp pickles and smoke of house-made pimento cheese—and the Ace Dip, with jerk chicken sitting atop soft pepper jack to be dunked in Ace jus.

Ace’s housemade pastrami hits the biscuit with an over easy egg, pepper jack cheese, and brown mustard. Photo by BJ Poss.

With an influx of creativity lining its kitchen, Ace is ready to push the envelope on what it means to whip up some low and slow fixings. Charlottesville chef Chris Humphries of Bonny and Read brings an elevated eye to the table as he’s begun to oversee the kitchen in hand with staff who have been spritzing the smokers since Ace’s early years. 

Since the break-in, Ace has become resourceful in reconnecting with its customers by forking out brisket at pop-ups, rolling breakfast burritos at the Charlottesville City Market, and offering dinner pairings like Gochujang sticky ribs with a German riesling at The Wine Guild. 

“We just wanted to get the smokers rolling again,” explains Operations Manager Will Curley, who is downright giddy over how Charlottesville has welcomed back a parking lot of bellowing hickory smoke. “Hearing customer’s bits and pieces reminds you of the sort of community keystone Ace is … makes you really happy to be involved in a project like this.”

Ace used the closure as an opportunity to rethink its space. They’ve done everything from moving the waffle maker to plopping an elevated stage in the dining room, giving Charlottesville a new venue to let loose. “We can’t wait for the first Friday night concert in the dining room, where the band is rocking, the bar is cranking, and the barbecue is smokin’,” says Curley.

Hardcore metal pairs with barbecue as well as any acid-driven riesling. Like a crispy, smoky, protective bark that softens to a tender, melodic center-cut spare rib, hardcore shows have found their Charlottesville home among red brick and carbon steel. “Every time we have a hardcore or metal show, it’s like a dam break,” Curley says with a grin. 

“We’re listening to what Charlottesville wants from us. We’re excited to see where Charlottesville takes Ace in the future.” 

Ace Biscuit & Barbecue is serving its full menu from its barbecue window with outdoor seating. Stay tuned for the dining room’s official re-opening.

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Culture Food & Drink

Starry Nights

File photo.

It’s an all-day-into-night affair to celebrate the 25th anniversary of Veritas Vineyards and Winery. Starry Nights returns with live music, fun food, and plenty of wine. Tunes start with AbbeyRoad covering classics from The Beatles before Marie and Koda of Chamomile and Whiskey take the stage, then ’80s enthusiasts The Legwarmers close the show. Bring your own picnic, snag a snack from Ma’s Pizza Cones or Cousins Maine Lobster food trucks, or enjoy a stationed meal (if you opt for the Moon Experience ticket).

Saturday 8/10. $15–75, 11am-11pm. Veritas Vineyards and Winery, 151 Veritas Ln., Afton. veritaswines.com

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Culture Food & Drink

Boozy Olympics, biscuits rise again, and dill-ightful cider 

Brookville Biscuit & Brunch returned in early June with a bountiful lineup of biscuit sandwiches. Supplied photo.

By Sarah Golibart Gorman

It’s the last call for the inaugural Virginia Cocktail Games, hosted by the Virginia Spirits Board. In this boozy, stateside version of the summer Olympics, 25 bartenders from five regions across the commonwealth compete to create the best cocktail. The two-round competition begins July 26 with a round of online voting running through August 11, culminating in a live mixology battle at Virginia Distilled on September 14. Mix your own and follow along at virginiaspirits.org.

Biscuits are back

Following a vandalism incident that forced a months-long closure, Ace Biscuit and Barbecue has returned to serving its beloved biscuits and barbecue. On July 11, the restaurant posted pics of the recently renovated loo, proudly announcing, “Our bathrooms are back in action and ready to handle all your … business.” Swing by 600 Concord Ave. to ‘cue up.

Also making a comeback is Brookville Biscuit & Brunch, which returned in early June after three years of online-only ordering through Multiverse Kitchens. Located at 1747 Allied St., Brookville is upgrading its patio and restaurant to offer a dining experience reminiscent of its original Downtown Mall roots. The biscuits are anything but basic, featuring delights like the fried pork chop with cream cheese and pepper jelly, chicken-fried oyster mushroom, and The Mother Clucker—fried chicken thigh topped with pickle, lettuce, and a proprietary Fowl Mouthed herb sauce.

Fair play

So you think you can bake? If your pie plate is the first dish cleared at the potluck, it’s time to up your game and let the experts decide. Gardeners, brewers, bakers, beekeepers, viticulturists, and artists are invited to enter the 2024 Albemarle County Fair’s annual home arts competition. Applications are accepted through July 30 and the fair begins on  August 1 at James Monroe’s Highland. Begin your blue ribbon quest at albemarlecountyfair.com.

Rosé, you say?

Raise a glass of bubbly to toast Rosemont Vineyards’ sparkling success! The winery’s Extra Brut Sparkling Rosé has clinched the crown as Rosé Wine of the Year at the Sommeliers Choice Awards. Flavors of strawberries, grapefruit, and cranberries make for great summer sipping. This rosé is Brut Nature, or “Zero Dosage,” keeping it pure with no added sugar during fermentation. 

Big dill

BYO dill to savor the final weeks of National Pickle Month this July at Bold Rock in Nellysford. The cidery’s concocted a limited release Dill Pickle Cider, pouring exclusively on draught in its Virginia and North Carolina taprooms. Drinkers are weighing in with mixed reviews, describing it as sweet and vinegary with just a hint of dill, while others are craving more dill to really zing their taste buds. Find out for yourself if this cider is your dill-ightful match! 

New bites

Rumi’s Famous Kebab: Dive into Afghani flavors at Rumi’s, open on Emmet Street since late June. Enjoy kebab platters, saffron rice, naan, spiced chickpeas, and more in a vibrant setting. @rumiscville

Tangerines Kitchen: Tangerines Kitchen, from the owner of Monsoon Siam and four other local Thai spots, made a zesty entrance with a soft opening on July 3, offering omelets, benedicts, pancakes, and a decadent French toast drizzled with pandan coconut sauce. Don’t miss the authentic Thai favorites for dinner. Located at 32 Mill Creek Dr. #102. @tangerineskitchen

Althea Bread: Althea Bread has risen to the occasion with a brick and mortar opening in Charlottesville this May. Grab a cup at neighboring Mudhouse Coffee Roasters and enjoy it alongside Althea’s sourdough bread and pastries, lovingly crafted with stone-ground local heirloom and ancient grains. Find it at 120 10th St. NW. altheabread.com