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Arts Culture

Pick: Late Night Comedy in the Orchard

For sips and giggles: Why did the chicken cross the road? To get to the other cider…there’s more where that came from at Late Night Comedy in the Orchard. The laugh-filled evening features a lineup of comedians from Herron Comedy that will have you chuckling and chortling while you sip on cider (no spit-takes allowed). Past performers include Lucas Connolly, who appeared at Comedy Central’s New York and South Beach comedy festivals, and Jeff McBride, a New York-based stand-up comic and producer.

Sunday 4/10. $13-20, 6:30pm. Albemarle CiderWorks, 2545 Rural Ridge Ln., North Garden. albemarleciderworks.com

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Arts Culture

Pick: Cider Saunter

It’s your lucky day: Throw on something green, lace up your tennis shoes, and continue your St. Patrick’s Day celebration at Albemarle CiderWorks’ Cider Saunter. Power walk, prance, or stroll to four different tasting locations scattered around the orchard, stopping to sample ciders selected by popular vote during the Cider Madness bracket showdown. Pair your drink with a tempting bowl of Irish stew or a gooey Irish grilled cheese from Raclette on the Run.

Saturday 3/19. $35-65, 1-5pm. Albemarle CiderWorks, 2545 Rural Ridge Ln., North Garden. albemarleciderworks.com 

Categories
Culture Food & Drink

Core focus

It’s well known that our founding fathers brewed beer, distilled whiskey, and, in the case of Thomas Jefferson, worked diligently to make wine in Virginia. But cider, too has been in production since the Colonial era—both Washington and Jefferson also grew apples and brewed cider. The industrial revolution saw a decline in the cider industry, but these days the beverage is experiencing a resurgence in the state.

Traditional cider comes from apples specifically selected for cider making, because they are not necessarily “good eating.” Cider apples can taste sour from high acidity or bitter from high tannin content. Just like in winemaking, these components provide structure, mouthfeel, texture, and complexity of flavor, and make cider a beautiful pairing with food.

Patrick Collins of Patois Cider explains that “cider isn’t monolithic,” and therefore there’s “lots of versatility with potential pairings based on varietal, terroir, cellar techniques,” and so on. He says that many ciders are “delicate and nuanced” and may get lost with heavy sauces. He suggests pairing them with “strong singular flavors like soft-ripened cheese.”

One example is Arkansas Black from Albemarle CiderWorks. It has delicate flavors of green apples and melons, refreshing acidity, and a bit of tannic structure that brings a slight minerality. In addition to pairing well with a soft triple-cream cheese, it works well with oysters, shellfish, or truffled pasta and dishes with a lighter white sauce.

Potter’s Craft Cider’s Pelure goes in a very different direction, intentionally keeping juice in contact with the skins for an extended period of time and aging in oak for 10 months, much like a red wine. The resulting tannic structure is balanced by acidity and a light bubbly effervescence that lifts what otherwise might be a very heavy and structured cider. This cider is not for everyone, it can accurately be described as “funky” or “meaty,” and it can be paired with heavier food. Try it with roast chicken, salami, sausages on the grill, or venison stew.

Patois Cider’s Bricolage is a sparkling cider made in the traditional method (the same method as Champagne) and produced entirely from foraged fruit. The bubbles and fruit aromas might give the initial impression of a light and whimsical cider, but you’ll find complex and deep flavors that bring to mind flowers, dried apricot, tart plums, and wet stone. It begs to be paired with food and is versatile enough to drink through your whole meal. A classic cider pairing with roast pork works exceedingly well, but also try it with fried chicken, roasted whole fish, and smoked mushroom tacos.

Categories
Living

Liquid gold: Local cidery and coffee roaster garner national awards

On Friday, January 17, Albemarle CiderWorks and Mudhouse Coffee Roasters scored top honors in the 2020 Good Food Awards in San Francisco. Among more than 2,000 entrants, the cidery and coffee producer were regional (South) winners in their respective categories—ACW for its Harrison cider, and Mudhouse for its Geisha Moras Negras roast. Bestowed annually by the creators of Slow Food Nations, the awards recognize “players in the food system who are driving towards tasty, authentic, and responsible food in order to humanize and reform our American food culture.”

Albemarle CiderWorks’ Harrison cider took top regional (South) honors at the annual Good Foods Awards in San Francisco. Photo: Courtesy Albemarle CiderWorks

As the name suggests, the ACW cider is made from the Harrison apple, an 18th-century variety that fell out of use and was thought to be extinct until its rediscovery in the late 1970s. Years later, ACW’s Thomas Burford became the first contemporary orchardist to cultivate the yellow, black-speckled Harrison, and today it is widely grown and popular among cider makers (but too ugly for supermarket sales).

The story of Mudhouse’s award winner begins in 1960, when the Geisha coffee variety was introduced in Panama. Mudhouse sources its beans from a third-generation family farm there. Grown at an altitude of about 5,400 feet, the fruit is hand-picked by migrant laborers from the Ngäbe-Buglé indigenous region, and it is quite precious. Eight ounces of Mudhouse’s Moras Negras will set you back $75. That’s more than most of us would be willing to pay. But at the 2006 Best of Panama event, an executive from Vermont’s Green Mountain Coffee remarked, “I am the least religious person here and when I tasted this coffee I saw the face of God in a cup.”

If you’re into that sort of thing, you can buy the stuff at mudhouse.com.

Speaking of awards…

Five local vineyards wowed the judges at the 2020 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, securing prestigious awards and doing the Monticello American Viticultural Area proud. Jefferson and Barboursville vineyards, Veritas Vineyard & Winery, and Trump Winery earned Double Gold designations for five wines, and newcomer Hark Vineyards was the only Best in Class winner from Virginia, singled out in the classic packaging category for its 2017 chardonnay label design. The Chronicle’s annual event is the largest in North America, drawing 6,700 entries from 1,000 wineries this year. Judges dole out Double Gold medals sparingly but found worthy recipients in the Jefferson Vineyards 2018 viognier, Barboursville’s 2018 vermentino, and Trump Winery’s 2016 meritage (a red blend consisting primarily of cabernet franc). Veritas nabbed two double-golds for cabernet franc bottlings, the 2017 reserve and 2017 standard in the $40-and-over and under-$30 categories, respectively.

This is nuts!

Sorry, fans of dairy alternatives like soy and almond milk, you may have to adapt to new terminology. A bill just cleared the Virginia House Agriculture Subcommittee defining milk as “the lacteal secretion, practically free of colostrum, obtained by the complete milking of a healthy hooved mammal.” The measure is intended to protect the commonwealth’s dairy industry from the surge in popularity of plant-based “milk” products. The legislation is moooving up the lawmaking food chain for further consideration.

Munch madness

C-VILLE’s Restaurant Week 2020 kicks off Friday, January 24, with 40 restaurants offering three-course meals for $29 or $39 (plus tax and a huge tip, please)—and presenting some tantalizing dishes. We’ve got our hungry little eyes on a few, including: Little Star’s seared rockfish with escarole, chipotle, manchego, and pimento fundito; Fleurie’s pan-roasted Polyface Farm chicken with braised cabbage and bacon; Kama’s grilled Virginia oysters with uni butter; 1799 at The Clifton’s rainbow trout with sweet potato, kale, and orange emulsion; Three Notch’d’s truffled mushroom ragout with potato gnocchi, vegetarian bordelaise, baked kale, and pecorino; and to top things off, Common House (aka Vinegar Hall)’s buttermilk panna cotta with persimmon jam. A portion of the proceeds benefit the Blue Ridge Area Food Bank, so eat up!

Bird is the word

Bowerbird Bakeshop, that is. The team behind the City Market stalwart recently announced a brick-and-mortar location at the Tenth Street Warehouses this spring. On Monday, co-owners Earl Vallery and Maria Niechwiadowicz surpassed their $5,555 GoFundMe target (by about $500) to defray part of the $70,000 start-up costs. Ten percent of all donations above the goal benefit City of Promise, the nonprofit working to empower underserved populations in Charlottesville.

Movin’ on up

It’s last call at Ace Biscuit & BBQ’s Henry Street location. The charming storefront next to Vitae Spirits will close on January 26 as the kings of carbo-loading move to bigger digs at 600 Concord Ave., just a couple of blocks away. No opening date at the new location has been announced.

Plus ça change

Less than a year after taking the helm at Gordonsville’s Rochambeau, Michelin-starred chef Bernard Guillot has returned to France, citing personal reasons. But the restaurant won’t miss a beat, as Jean-Louis and Karen Dumonet step in to fill the void in early February. The couple met long ago at cooking school in Paris and have been collaborating on restaurants all over the world for 35-plus years. Their latest project, Dumonet, was a popular French bistro in Brooklyn.

It’s mai-tai o’clock somewhere

Now that it’s actually cold outside, Brasserie Saison is hosting a Tropical Tiki Getaway so you can mind-trip to a warm, sandy beach. The intimate downstairs Coat Room will be decorated like a luau (we see a fake palm tree in our future) and paper-umbrella cocktails will be served. Wear your Hawaiian shirts and flip-flops. 6-10pm, Thursday, January 30. 111 E. Main St., Downtown Mall, 202-7027, brasseriesaison.net.

Categories
Living

Living Picks: Week of July 11-17

Nonprofit

CASPCA benefit

Thursday, July 12

Dining out can benefit more than your stomach: Mention Charlottesville-Albemarle SPCA on July 12, and 10 percent of your check at Bonefish Grill will go to animals-in-need. Price varies, 11am-10pm. Bonefish Grill, 269 Connor Dr. 975-3474.

Food & Drink

Anniversary party

Saturday, July 14

Albemarle CiderWorks is hosting a party for its ninth anniversary. There will be cider and food à la carte, along with live music and games. Free, 2-6pm. Albemarle CiderWorks, 2545 Rural Ridge Ln., North Garden. 297-2326.

Health & Wellness

Jefferson Sprint Triathlon & Duathlon

Sunday, July 15

Events for both adults and youth: Triathlon includes a pool swim followed by biking and running, while the duathlon consists of running/biking/running. Race benefits Claudius Crozet Park. $40-$170; 6am-2pm. Claudius Crozet Park, 1075 Claudius Crozet Park, Crozet. emily @charlottesvillemultisports.com

Family

Shakespeare in Scottsville

Saturday, July 14, and Sunday, July 15

A cast of 24 youth ages 9 to 16 put on a performance of Shakespeare’s Love’s Labour’s Lost, one of his earliest comedies. $5, 7pm Saturday; 3pm Sunday. St. Anne’s Parish, 900 Glendower Rd., Scottsville. 286-3629.

Categories
Living

LIVING Picks: Week of April 11-17

Nonprofit

Block party
Friday, April 13 through Sunday, April 15

The Tom Tom Founders Festival hosts a three-day block party featuring several bands, technology and art showcases, food trucks, a craft beer garden and more. Free entry, 5-11pm Friday; noon-11pm Saturday; and 2-8pm Sunday. Emancipation Park, 101 E. Market St. tom tomfest.com

Health & Wellness

Run for Autism 5K
Saturday, April 14

The Virginia Institute of Autism hosts this run/walk for families and children, including people with disabilities. Proceeds benefit VIA. $25-45, 7:30am kids race; 8am 5K. Charlottesville High School, 1400 Melbourne Rd. 923-8252.

Food & Drink

Apple Blossom Festival
Saturday, April 14

This family-friendly event features live music from the Ragged Mountain String Band, cider tastings, games and crafts. Free entry, 2- 5pm. Albemarle CiderWorks, 2545 Rural Ridge Ln., North Garden. 297-2326.

FAMILY

Ivy Creek Farm Day
Saturday, April 14

Children and adults can meet Tillie the cow, make a treat for wild birds, learn how to use binoculars, receive tips on starting a wildflower garden, make old-fashioned ice cream and more. Free entry, 10am- 4pm. Ivy Creek Natural Area, 1780 Earlysville Rd. 973-7772.

Categories
News

War on weddings: Looming legislation troubles local businesses

Some professionals in the wedding business see Albemarle County’s attempts to further regulate events at farm wineries, cideries, breweries and distilleries as a blatant attack on a burgeoning industry—and they’re not sure why.

Amid crowd murmurs that the county is working toward finding “a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist,” senior planner Mandy Burbage presented a staff report to supervisors and planning commissioners at a joint work session June 14 that recommended limiting events at those venues to 24 per year.

Jen Fariello, a wedding photographer who spoke along with other industry professionals including event planners, limousine drivers, caterers and musicians, says capping weddings at these types of farm venues could imminently harm her business.

“We have an incredibly positive and thriving and profitable wedding industry,” she says. “We cannot talk about the huge success of the wedding industry without it being tied in to the farm winery, farm cidery and now brewery and distillery industry. They’re incredibly linked.”

While Charlottesville and surrounding counties are known as a hub for destination weddings, Fariello says brides and grooms-to-be aren’t attracted to the area for its mass of hotels or restaurants—it’s the “bucolic countryside” they’re attracted to.

Borrowed & Blue’s co-founder and CEO Adam Healey calculates the wedding industry as having an economic impact of $158 million in Albemarle County, and the local wedding market has been ranked as one of the top five for destination weddings on the East Coast, he says.

“Why are weddings being attacked?” Fariello asked. “Why would the county squash the golden goose?”

And she was happy to learn that most supervisors and planning commissioners felt the same way.

Diantha McKeel, vice chair of the Albemarle Board of Supervisors, said it best: “I’m not excited about caps.”

A current issue, staff reported, is the number of places acting as farm wineries, cideries, breweries and distilleries. The comprehensive plan dictates that those businesses should not be solely event venues and, according to the county’s senior planner, “that potential does exist.”

Al Schornberg, owner of Keswick Vineyards and one of 27 members of the public to speak at the meeting, says those types of venues, or “faux wineries,” as he calls them, are already here among 29 local wineries currently classified as farm wineries.

“There’s companies that want to take advantage of the farm winery ordinance to do events without really making the investment in vineyards and cellars,” Schornberg says. According to state regulations, 51 percent of a farm winery’s grapes used to make wine must be grown on the farm. Staff recommended going a step further in the county and requiring each winery to also have at least one acre of vines on-site. But, for Schornberg, who says he has invested millions of dollars in grape growing, a one-acre vineyard—or roughly a $20,000 investment—isn’t enough to inaugurate a legitimate winery.

“Any winery or any establishment that claims to be a winery and doesn’t have a cellar isn’t really a winery,” he says. Though he won’t point fingers, he says some new wineries seem to follow that trend. And “it’s not really fair to legitimate farm wineries who have made the investment in vineyards and cellars and things like that,” he says. “It’s not a level playing field.”

Officials agreed that the zoning amendment to ensure that farm wineries, cideries, breweries and distilleries are not just taking on that name in the guise of an event venue should move forward.

“Where does it end?” rural landowner Elizabeth Neff asked, encouraging the officials to look 50 or 100 years into the future if events at farm venues in question aren’t capped. “How do you want rural people to live?”

Complaints from neighbors mostly came from noise from events and the number of people visiting the county.

A 50-vehicle trip event cap (or 25 each way) exists in the current ordinance, triggering the need for a zoning clearance, which is a $50 permit.

“That’s an awful lot of people in a car if you’re going to have 200,” commissioner Mac Lafferty noted. Currently, a special use permit is required for events at farm venues with more than 200 people. A zoning ordinance allows venues to play amplified music at a cost of $50, but the new amendment proposes the need for a special use permit, which could cost about $2,000.

Ultimately, as new legislation that would limit their labor loomed, the faces of farm wineries, cideries, breweries and distilleries made it clear to county leaders that partnering with the event industry makes their work possible.

“We have not seen the issues that apparently are out there,” Charlotte Shelton, the owner of Albemarle Ciderworks, said. Generating revenue through holding events, she said, “can be the difference between breaking even or stumbling along.”

By the end of summer, county staff will have a draft of the text amendment.

Corrected June 24 with information to reflect that the 50-vehicle trip event cap already exists and a $2,000 special use permit to allow amplified sound at events would be a one-time cost.