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It’s a wonder: Blue Ridge Tunnel trail opening is more than a century in the making

It’s dark. It’s damp. It’s cold. And it’s so cool.

The newly opened Claudius Crozet Blue Ridge Tunnel trail lets you walk under the Blue Ridge—under Rockfish Gap, under I-64, under the Appalachian Trail and Skyline Drive. More than 700 feet above, drivers sweep through forested hillsides while you peer at walls of hewn rock and brick. Up there, hikers hear leaves rustling in the wind while you hear water dripping from the tunnel walls; they see dappled sunlight while you see flashlights bobbing like underground fireflies—and one small point of light ahead, a beacon from a mile away.

The tunnel is a secret world but not a closed one. A steady breeze brings fresh air through the passage, which is arrow-straight and has a very slight incline. Kids coming through will laugh to stir an echo, and squeal when they find wildlife—salamanders and crayfish live here, so be respectful. And it’s hard not to think about the men who labored here, mostly Irish immigrants and enslaved workers hired out for cash, pitting their strength—and their lives—against the unyielding mountain.

When the 4,273-foot Blue Ridge Tunnel was completed in 1858, it was the longest railroad tunnel in North America. Construction was overseen by Claudius Crozet (yes, the town was named for him), a French immigrant and highly trained engineer. When the eastern and western tunnel crews first connected, the two sides were only a few inches off. But it took years before the tunnel was up and running, and Crozet, fed up with management problems, public pressure, and criticism, eventually resigned—three months before the tunnel’s grand opening. He didn’t get to ride on that first ceremonial train.

The Blue Ridge railroad tunnel was in service for 86 years—it closed in 1944, when an adjacent tunnel designed for larger locomotives was completed. In 2007, CSX generously donated the property to Nelson County. The Blue Ridge Tunnel Foundation, including representatives from Albemarle, Nelson, and Augusta counties, the City of Waynesboro, and local community organizations, was set up in 2012 to develop community support and funding. The opening last weekend was the culmination of more than a decade of that work.

The trail is now open every day, sunrise to sunset. Nelson County Parks and Recreation Director Claire Richardson recommends checking the department’s Facebook page or website before coming, since there may be occasional closures due to weather or maintenance. There are access points at either end (one in Nelson, one in Augusta), with small parking lots and half-mile approach trails leading up to the tunnel entrances. (Word to the wise: The western approach trail is much steeper than the eastern one.) Bring a flashlight, headlamp, or lantern for safety, and a jacket for comfort; the crushed gravel path can be uneven, so wear decent walking shoes. And bring your mask.

But mostly, bring your sense of wonder: at this area’s natural beauty, at a remarkable human achievement from 160 years ago, and at a marvelous opportunity to visit a world we don’t usually get to see—unless we’re salamanders or crayfish.

And, as Richardson says, “Stay tuned for Halloween 2021.”

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Passing through: Jesse Smyth’s Appalachian Trail tale

Millions of people hike a portion of the Appalachian Trail annually. Thousands take to the trail in Charlottesville’s own Blue Ridge backyard. But only a few hundred ambitious adventurers make the full 2,190-mile trek between Georgia and Maine.

Last year, longtime Charlottesville resident Jesse Smyth completed the arduous journey. She shared her story with C-VILLE:

On hiking

I’ve been hiking pretty much my whole life. I lived in Charlottesville since I was 2 until college, and did a lot of the day hikes around Charlottesville, everything from Ragged Mountain and Sugar Hollow to Humpback Rocks and Shenandoah National Park. My favorite day hike is Bearfence Mountain. It’s a fun rock scramble and has some nice views.  

My first backpacking trip was when I was around 10, in the Adirondacks. The next year, that’s when I decided I was going to hike the AT, Georgia to Maine. I’m 24 now and finished my hike last year. I started on March 15 and finished August 14—right in the middle in terms of speed. I wasn’t trying to rush. At first I wanted to take my time and do eight to 12 miles per day, but I didn’t keep that up. We did a 14-mile day by day four. There were a couple stretches where we didn’t take a zero—a full rest day—for 20-some days. We were just going.

On the trail

I had a few different trail families, or tramilies. I had been with a group for the first 300-some miles, the first couple states, and then there was a norovirus outbreak, which is common on the trail. Norovirus doesn’t get killed by hand sanitizer, and it spreads easily. I was in this group, and they all got sick, but I did my first 20-mile day and outran it. Only two of that tramily ever caught up again.

Most hikers on the AT get trail names. My tramilies gave me two trail names. The first was Double Stuff, because I started out carrying two puffy coats, and the second was Fumbles, because I dropped things a lot, particularly my water filters.

For the last part of the trail, one of the women I was hiking with had the idea for all of us to take a summit picture on Mount Katahdin in animal onesies. We initially pushed back a bit, but in the end it was a great idea. She asked her boyfriend to buy them all, and he sent them to us the day before we summited. We got our normal pic first, then we got a group pic. I was a kangaroo.

On the aftermath

I’m still in touch with some of the people I met on the trail. In my final tramily, there were seven or eight of us. We still have an active group chat. I preferred company to hiking alone. I had about five days completely by myself and decided that wasn’t for me. 

Last year, there was a murder on the trail about 150 miles south of me in Virginia. While it shook the trail community, it didn’t ruin my hike, but it increased my awareness of my surroundings. The vast majority of the people I met were really cool. There was only one time I felt uncomfortable about someone I ran into on the trail, but I was able to add a few miles and hike into town.

I definitely would recommend a thru-hike to others. I don’t know that I would do the same one. I was pretty tired right when I finished and thought that there was no way I would do a five-month hike again. Now that I am a year out, I have started to think that maybe the Pacific Crest Trail wouldn’t be so crazy after all.

 

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Hostel takeover: Local woman wants Charlottesville to be hiker magnet

Marit Anderson signs her emails “Moonwalker,” her trail name. She completed the 2,178 miles of the Appalachian Trail in 2009, a portion of which is easily accessible, via Skyline Drive and the Blue Ridge Parkway, from the place she calls home—Charlottesville.

As the vice president and hike leader of Charlottesville’s chapter of the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, Anderson is a strong believer in “tourism as a natural resource.” She thinks Charlottesville could better capitalize on its natural assets by appealing to an international outdoors community. Step one? A hostel.

“My inspiration to start a hostel began with my experience as a thru-hiker on the Appalachian Trail and Pacific Crest Trail, but expanded as I bicycled across America on the Southern Tier route from San Diego to St. Augustine,” she says. When a person does a long-distance trek, keeping costs down is often imperative, and hostels provide lodging at a reduced rate, as well as bring people together in common space while making a meal or resting, she adds.

Anderson believes the majority of tourists who descend on the gateway city to Shenandoah National Park are visiting the university, are history buffs or are touring the plethora of wineries and breweries in the area, and not so much here to partake of the rich natural resources.

“It’s disconcerting,” says Anderson. “Every winery is packed when I drive up to Skyline on a weekend. Did these people go and take a hike before?”

Anderson recognizes that many of the city’s tourists are not necessarily looking for an affordable housing option, but that doesn’t mean there isn’t a need for a hostel.

“Experiential travel has become so much more popular, “ says Kurt Burkhart, executive director of the Charlottesville Albemarle Convention and Visitors Bureau. “Instead of going to one resort, people want to live like a local and make global friendships. Hostels offer that. They are an affordable travel option that often have stunning rooms and, most importantly, a common gathering area.”

Each year, 5,000 people set out to hike the Appalachian Trail from various starting points. Thru-hikers deeply committed to their trail timeline—or vacationers who enjoy hiking but are on a budget—often avoid Charlottesville and opt for a trail town where they can easily find a cheap meal, place to sleep, laundromat and grocery store.

“As a whole, everything is spread out in Charlottesville, but the downtown area is perfect,” Anderson says. “I recently looked at a property that could serve as a hostel on [West] Main Street, near the bus station and train station, but it would have cost me a million dollars to buy the property.”

Downtown is not the only area in Charlottesville considered prime real estate. Crozet, just 12 miles west, is an approved tourism district with close proximity to the Blue Ridge Parkway, which intersects with the Appalachian Trail.

“Crozet would be a perfect place for a hostel,” says Burkhart. “It is good for hikers and nature seekers. There has been talk about having a hotel built out there, which is a sign of where the industry is going. I say you go where the fish are biting.”

So far, Anderson has spoken with local accommodation owners about their experiences; the Charlottesville Albemarle Convention and Visitors Bureau is next on her list. She also wants to gauge city government’s interest in an area hostel. Government backing would help expedite the process of locating a property and meeting local ordinances, and help alleviate concerns about it serving as a low-income housing option.

She points to the hostel in Richmond, HI USA, which is a part of an international hostel network and, therefore, receives better funding and visibility. “Perhaps the city of Charlottesville will see the viability of having a hostel in its downtown area to meet the growing lodging needs of tourists, students, visiting professors?” she says.