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Living

Charlottesville’s semi-pro soccer team is a winning endeavor

The players were in their 20s and 30s. Some hailed from Croatia, Iran and France; others were born at Martha Jefferson Hospital. Some had played soccer in college or professionally, and now they had homes and families in Charlottesville.

They met weekly for casual pickup games to knock a ball around UVA’s Lambeth Field. In the summer of 2015, just for kicks, the group registered for Neptune’s, a regional tournament in Virginia Beach. They thought it would be a fun way to spend a weekend.

They ended up sweeping the competition.

“We realized that not only were we having fun, but we were winning and really successful,” says David Deaton, who was the squad’s captain.

The team decided to ride that success all the way to the Lamar Hunt U.S. Open Cup, the oldest ongoing national amateur soccer tournament in the U.S. There, a team can climb the ranks from playing other local groups to potentially competing against a Major League Soccer squad.

But before that, they needed uniforms. And a name. For both, Deaton turned to Aroma’s Café.

In the beginning

When David Deaton (left) was looking for somebody to sponsor his soccer team, his first call was to Hassan Kaisoum (right), owner of Aroma’s Café, and a former professional player from Morocco. Photo by Eze Amos

Hassan Kaisoum, owner of Aroma’s, is well-known not just in Charlottesville but in international soccer circles. A former professional player from Morocco, Kaisoum credits the sport for saving his life when he was orphaned at 11 years old, by providing him with an outlet and a support network of his teammates’ families.

“When I lost my mom and dad and the support of my parents, I had the support from others,” says Kaisoum. “Fathers and mothers of my friends making sure I wasn’t missing anything food-wise, and everything I needed—repairing my bike, helping me to continue and finish school.”

Kaisoum has spent his life paying that goodwill forward, from charity drives at Aroma’s to coaching soccer at Charlottesville High School. When Deaton approached him with the opportunity to fund the team, Kaisoum was thrilled.

“I never paid any coaches when I was in Morocco,” said Kaisoum. “They gave it to me for free, for love. When David approached me to build Aroma’s Café Club first, without hesitation I said, ‘Okay, what do you need?’”

So Aroma’s Café FC was born. Not only did it beat two different teams to make it past the amateur round of the U.S. Open Cup, but it also claimed a 2-1 victory over the Richmond Strikers, a semi-professional team in the National Premier Soccer League, before ultimately falling to a Division II team.

“I think that coming off of Neptune’s in the summer and Open Cup from the fall and spring, people realized that there was something big happening,” Deaton says.

And if the club could beat a semi-professional team, why couldn’t it be one itself? And that’s how, one year and one lengthy application process later, the team—newly named the Charlottesville Alliance after its goal of helping to create a unified community—joined the National Premier Soccer League in 2018.

Kaisoum recalls an Aroma’s customer asking how the club was faring after the Open Cup. “Wonderful,” Kaisoum told him. “Now we’ve become C’ville Alliance, we’re now semi-professional.” Two days later, Kaisoum received a $1,000 check from the customer for the team.

“This community supports you if you support them,” says Kaisoum. “I was stunned by the support of Charlottesville, for my business first, and also for the soccer.”

And that community support is apparent on nights like a Monday in early July. Even though an oppressive heat has baked the turf dry at Albemarle High School’s stadium, the seating area is filled with more than 100 people. They’re carrying flags and holding signs. Some of them are wearing Alliance red. Like the Charlottesville Tom Sox, the Alliance has become part of a growing local sports market in its first year in the NPSL.

For many of the original players from the pickup team, having that crowd cheer them on is something they haven’t experienced in years.

“My last soccer game in front of people was in a different country,” says Price Thomas, a longtime member of the group and a William & Mary alum whose professional playing career spanned from Turkey to Germany to Richmond, Virginia. “I haven’t felt that in a long time. Personally, it was very nostalgic to be up there.”

Price Thomas, a “senior” Alliance player who graduated from Albemarle High School and the College of William & Mary, says his hope for the team is that it is still “around when my kids are playing.” Photo by Eze Amos

The NPSL is geared toward current college players, but the Alliance roster has its own unique makeup: It’s split into two halves, with “senior” players comprising one part and college students making up the other. That allows the team to accommodate summer schedules, with senior players like Thomas filling in roster spots when jobs or vacations get in the way for their younger teammates.

Those college athletes often serve as the real draw for fans. The team pulls from a wide range of Virginia schools, and attracts both hometown players (Jake Gelnovatch, a Louisville player and son of longtime UVA men’s soccer coach George Gelnovatch) as well as international ones (Joe Bell, a rising Virginia soccer star is from New Zealand). The 2018 lineup consisted of three UVA, four James Madison University, two Virginia Commonwealth University and two Virginia Tech players, as well as others from a range of schools. Their names are the kind that kids in the crowd want autographed on jerseys they hold out to the players after games.

“Joe Bell starts for UVA,” says Thomas. “I’m sure some of these kids have his poster on their wall.”

Joe Bell, originally from New Zealand, is a rising second-year midfielder for UVA. UVA Media Relations
Jake Gelnovatch, son of longtime UVA Men’s Soccer Coach George Gelnovatch, is a goalie on Louisville’s team. Louisville Athletics

Creating a talent pipeline

Even before the Alliance became part of the NPSL, it was already shaping players’ college careers just by keeping them in touch with the game.

“Just playing pickup with them isn’t exactly the level that college soccer is or anything,” says Forrest White, a regular at pickup games while on summer break from playing at Virginia Tech. “But it was still kind of just to keep me in shape and keep me enjoying playing soccer, which a lot of people in college lose very quickly.”

But this summer, the NPSL team provides something that Charlottesville lacked prior to 2018: a place to train over the summer. Local college players, for the first time in their career, don’t have to drive hours out of town to condition with a competitive squad.

Jon Atkinson. Photo by Eze Amos

NCAA regulations restrict athletes from playing with their college coaches during break, which means the Alliance holds a powerful draw. This is one of the only teams in the NPSL to be led by a Division I coach, with Jon Atkinson of Longwood University at the helm, which gives players a chance to receive college-level instruction when school’s not in session.

Many of the senior players on the team also serve as mentors, and several of them have their own coaching careers. Thomas is the founder of Gradum Academy, a training program for kids who want to take their soccer careers to the next level. His academy serves as a pipeline to the Alliance; some of his students include Abibi Osman (University of Lynchburg), Barun Tamang (Randolph College) and Blake Wheaton (Emory University), all on the Alliance’s 2018 roster. The NPSL team provides Thomas’ trainees with a place to play full games, an invaluable addition to their college preparation.

As someone who had to mail CD recordings of his Albemarle High playing highlights in order to get the attention of college teams, Thomas hopes Alliance games not only draw soccer fans but scouts as well.

“Can we make this a place where people want to come watch, from a fan standpoint but also from a legitimate talent standpoint?” asks Thomas. “The boys are good. They’re absolutely good enough.”

Community connections

Soccer is a lot of things to the members of the Alliance. It’s a passion. It’s a way to make a living. But, above all, it has made strangers all across the world into teammates and friends.

“Your connective tissue is the game, so you don’t have time to worry about the fact that you don’t agree on politics,” says Thomas. “Maybe we don’t, and maybe we argue about that later, but at the end of the day, the foundational part of our relationship is our love of the game.”

Sports can do more than just ease political differences; they can smooth cultural and linguistic ones as well. Because soccer is an easily accessible street sport intrinsic to areas all over the world, playing it helps introduce kids to international communities at an early age.

“If you’re of American background and playing soccer, then you’re going to be immediately drawn into where it’s a hotbed of popularity, and all these other international groups that are playing the sport,” Deaton says.

Some Alliance members have played in the local Liga Latina, even if they don’t speak Spanish. For others on the team, English is a second or third language. On the pitch, that’s usually a bigger joke than it is an issue. Deaton himself has played everywhere from the slums of India to snowy Korea, where you don’t need to share a language to point someone in a certain direction or high-five after a goal.

“When growing up in my teens and through my 20s, soccer was fun because it was a sport,” Deaton says. “And then when I moved to Asia and I was able to travel the world, I started to realize that soccer was amazing because it put me in contact with people that I never would have known otherwise.” In Charlottesville, soccer introduced Deaton and the team to kids at the Blue Ridge Juvenile Detention Center, where the Alliance plays a soccer game with residents on the first Friday of every offseason month.

“We can come [to the detention center], kick a ball around, have a laugh, shake hands, even though the contexts of our lives have taken different paths,” Deaton says. “That doesn’t mean that, at our basic core, we’re not exactly the same people.”

For the kids at BRJDC, meeting visitors who consider themselves to be “exactly the same people” as detainees is a novelty. In Volume 5, Issue 4 of Sharing Our Progress, a detention center newsletter, a resident shared heartfelt thanks with the Alliance for its visits. “People think that we are criminals and bad people,” he wrote, “but it’s good to see that people come in and don’t see us like that.”

Visits to the detention center are just one example of underserved parts of the community that soccer has allowed the Alliance to reach. The team has purchased soccer goals for International Rescue Committee children as well as for Friendship Court. Members play with and offer free game tickets to kids at the Boys & Girls Clubs of Central Virginia. These efforts have culminated in a college scholarship program for local students.

Deaton has also been part of a campaign to improve area practice field infrastructure. The Alliance has a seat at the table as the county discusses creating new places to play, which the team sees as crucial in helping area kids grow up in a diverse community.

“If we can play together as kids, we can build together as adults,” says Deaton. “If we’re not cultivating a safe place to play at younger ages, then it leads to a lack of understanding at the adult level.”

On July 7, in Baltimore, Maryland, the Alliance’s first season as an NPSL team came to an end, with a record of 3-5-2. But more than its record, the team was successful in establishing a semi-professional summer team in Charlottesville that will continue working toward its goal of reshaping the sports landscape in town.

“It’s all about pushing this concept as far as it can go,” Deaton says. “How successful can Charlottesville be on the pitch? How much can it have an impact on the community?”

One answer to that is to create a women’s team. Next summer, the Alliance hopes to have a parallel female squad debuting alongside the airing of the FIFA Women’s World Cup. Meanwhile, both teams hope to be present in the community year-round, not just during the summer season.

“My goal, if you ask me what do I want to see this do long-term, is that I want it to be around,” says Thomas. “I want it to be around when my kids are playing.”

Categories
Living

Aromas Café returns to its beginnings

When Hassan Kaisoum moved Aromas Café from its original location in the Virginia Department of Forestry building to Barracks Road Shopping Center in 2007, he returned often to Fontaine Research Park to walk the nature trails he’d come to know well since first opening the restaurant in 1998.

On those walks, he thought about the loyal customers who’d followed him from one spot to the next, and he also thought about the Red Cross fundraiser for the families of 9/11 victims he hosted on the lawn in front of the building—how customers showed up to enjoy a meal, music and dancing while raising tens of thousands of dollars for the charity.

After leaving Barracks Road Shopping Center in October, Kaisoum will reopen Aromas Café in the Forestry Building at 900 Natural Resources Dr. this week.

Kaisoum is eager to wish customers a happy new year, and he’s especially excited to continue serving the same flavorful Moroccan and Mediterranean food he’s become known for—and at a lower price. Last Wednesday, two of Kaisoum’s longtime customers stopped by to see the new (well, new-old) space, and when Kaisoum handed them menus, they were shocked: The chicken shawarma sandwich, previously priced at $11.95, is now $7.95, and other menu items have dropped in price as well. (Lower rent means lower prices, Kaisoum implied.)

Before hugging Kaisoum goodbye, the men said they’d be among the first in line on reopening day.

In addition to the salads, sandwiches, entrées, appetizers and sides that have been Aromas’ menu mainstays for years, the café will now serve breakfast. Aromas Café will be open 7:30am to 4:30pm Monday through Friday, with extended hours in the spring.

Pausing for a moment in the dining room filled with orchids and brightly colored paintings of Moroccan doorways by local artist Eli Frenzen, Kaisoum reflects on what it feels like to be back in the place where it all began 20 years ago: “Here, where it is, is very sentimental to me.”

Another 2017 closing

After dinner service on New Year’s Eve, Threepenny Café permanently closed its doors at 420 W. Main St. The farm-to-table restaurant, which owners Merope Pavlides and Peter Emch opened in spring 2014, announced its closing in a Facebook post the morning of December 29. “While we are saddened to end the work we’ve done at Threepenny Café, we are excited to discover what comes next for us as we continue our commitment to changing our country’s food system. We urge you to follow the work of Chef Jeff Deloff as he continues to make his mark as part of the Real Food movement,” the note read.

To market we go

Beginning on Saturday, January 13, and running through March 24, IX Art Park will host an indoor/outdoor winter farmers market from 9am to 1pm every Saturday. Food vendors and a number of artisans such as Free Union Grass Farm, Natural Roots Farm, Halo Apothecary, Twenty Paces and Carpe Donut have signed up to hold us over until the City Market returns April 7. Plus, Market Central will be on-site to accept SNAP and EBT cards.

Categories
Living

Aromas Café to close at Barracks Road Shopping Center

When Hassan Kaisoum was 11 years old, he lost both of his parents. Nearly homeless and roaming the streets of Morocco, someone handed him an eggplant, which he put on the stove and promptly burned. But he was hungry, so he sprinkled some vinegar on the scorched eggplant and ate it anyway—it tasted good, he says, because nothing tastes worse than hunger.

For the past 19 years, Kaisoum has been cooking more flavorful eggplant dishes (and baklava…and tagines…and schwarma…and other Mediterranean cuisine) at his restaurant, Aromas Café, which opened in 1998 in the Forest Street building at Fontaine Research Park on Fontaine Avenue and moved to the Barracks Road Shopping Center in 2007.

But Saturday, October 14, will be Aromas Café’s last day of service at Barracks Road.

Kaisoum says that when he was offered a spot in the shopping center in 2007, it seemed like the center wanted to bring in more small, locally owned businesses.

But currently, Barracks Road Shopping Center is home to a slew of chain restaurants: Burger King, McDonald’s, Zinburger, Zoe’s Kitchen, Brixx Wood Fired Pizza, b.good, Tara Thai, Panera Bread, Peter Chang’s China Grill. When Aromas closes, Hot Cakes will be the only locally owned non-chain restaurant in the shopping center.

The shopping center is owned by Federal Realty Investment Trust, a publicly traded company with a market value of more than $9 billion that owns 96 properties in what it calls “strategically metropolitan markets” in the Northeast, the Mid-Atlantic, California and Florida. The company acquired Barracks Road Shopping Center in 1985.

C-VILLE reached out to the shopping center for a comment on the departure of their longtime tenant, but at time of publication, they hadn’t returned a phone call or an email.

Kaisoum says that he wasn’t chased out of the space; he’s leaving of his own will and has sold the remainder of his lease to the next restaurant that’ll occupy the space. He’s leaving Barracks Road, he says, to return to his roots.

Kaisoum’s favorite part of owning a restaurant is the relationship it allows him to have with the community—he knows many of his customers well and has seen them through soccer games (Aromas sponsors an adult amateur soccer team), graduations and weddings, births, deaths and much more. Many of his customers followed him from his Fontaine Avenue café to the location at Barracks Road, and he says they’re likely to follow him to the next spot, too.

For loyal Aromas customers who’ve carried the restaurant for just shy of two decades, Kaisoum has a message: “Thanks from my heart for your support. I’ll be here for you for another 10 years…just be patient for a few more weeks” to find out where that’ll be.

Enraptured by food

Rapture’s new chef, Jeremy Coleman, is the kind of person who lines a closet in his house with plastic and uses it to cure his own meats. “You know those black binder clips? I used those to clip the meat to coat hangers,” he says about making his own bacon.

Coleman, who arrived in town just a few months ago, has cooked for more than 20 years at various restaurants in Richmond, Williamsburg and in Pennsylvania. He took over Rapture’s Downtown Mall kitchen from Chris Humphreys, who is now chef and co-owner of Fellini’s at 200 Market St.

Coleman says he’s a seasonally minded chef who uses local ingredients (such as pork from Autumn Olive Farms) and locally made components (like MarieBette Cafe & Bakery’s challah rolls) whenever possible. He aims to think up a new dish every day and welcomes input from his kitchen staff. He also offers unexpected dishes—like a butternut squash “guacamole” made with roasted and smashed butternut squash instead of avocados.

Inspired by Mad Hatter, the Charlottesville-made condiment with locally grown habanero peppers, plus olive oil and pineapple that strikes “the happy medium between a generic chili seasoning and the vinegar-based extra hot sauce,” Coleman will cook a dinner on Monday, October 23, that will showcase Mad Hatter not as a condiment but as a sauce. The five courses, each of which will be paired with a Devils Backbone beer, include a tako poke made with octopus, pickled pumpkin, onion, scallions, sesame seeds and Mad Hatter sauce; a raviolo made with Mad Hatter pasta, braised Autumn Olive Farms pork and egg yolk; and ice cream with a Mad Hatter-dark chocolate magic shell and a coconut-white chocolate ganache.

In addition to creating a new menu each season, Coleman plans to cook more one-off dinners, one focused on sausage and another, likely next summer, focused on tomatoes. He wants to remind diners that Rapture is, and has been, more than a late night DJ and dance spot—it’s a restaurant focused on great food.

Open again

Parallel 38 is now open in its new location at 817 W. Main St. (best known as the former location of L’Etoile). We’ll have more details on the menu soon, but for now, we can assure you the labneh is on it.