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Magazines Unbound

“I was about to die!” Three writers recount terrifying close calls.

Exploring outdoors, whether in a city or the wilds, can be relaxing, exhilarating, ennobling—and sometimes, extremely dangerous. We’re not talking about the kind of danger one knowingly faces, for instance, during an extreme undertaking like climbing Everest, where 11 people have died in 2019. Most injuries and even fatal incidents occur during much more low-key adventures. They result from twists of fate, lapses in judgment due to fatigue, innocent missteps, and just plain accidents. For example, it’s been a particularly brutal year for cyclists in New York City, with the death toll at 18 (not all “accidents,” strictly speaking) as of the end of July.

We’ve all been there or at least know someone who has. The worst cases end tragically and with breathtaking swiftness. They end with irrevocable loss and soul-crushing sadness. Other situations—the ones we live to tell or hear about—are variously known as brushes with death, close calls, or some other shorthand that falls drastically short of describing the drama and emotional untethering that accompany reaching the edge of nothingness.

All of that said, a good storyteller can help us make some sense of—and perhaps even draw a lesson from—a life-threatening experience. Here are just three examples. 

The storm

Lightning, thunder, and the frailty of life
By Earl Swift

One summer I convinced my editors at the newspaper to buy a sea kayak and let me paddle it in a 500-mile circle around the Chesapeake, filing stories and pictures as I went. I pushed off from Norfolk, paddled 20-odd miles across the Chesapeake’s mouth to the southern tip of the Eastern Shore, and started north from there, my boat loaded with food and camping gear.

Three days into the voyage I pulled into a wide break in the shoreline at the mouth of Mattawoman Creek and beached for the night on tiny Honeymoon Island, a lump of sand in the creek’s middle sprouted with beach grass and a few water bushes. I set up my tent, broke out my stove, and cooked dinner. Then, as darkness approached, I crawled into my sleeping bag to read by headlamp before turning in. I was immersed in a book when, at about 9pm, I heard a low, long rumble of distant thunder. I paid it little heed. Not three minutes later I heard another snarl—this one much louder, and deeper, and closer. And just seconds after that a gale blasted the tent with sudden, extreme force, ripping up the stakes and prying up the floor and rolling the shelter onto its side before I had time to scream.

I threw myself to the tent’s windward side and stretched to pin down the corners with hands and feet, while from outside came the sounds of my cook set skittering away and the kayak sliding on the sand. I heard that for only a moment, though, because now came a deluge pounding the tent, and lightning in a flurry, bolts striking by the score, so close that the ground bounced under me, their blue-white strobes blinding through the tent’s two layers of nylon, and the sound of this hellstorm—the roar of the wind and rain, the concussions of the thunder—blotting out my every thought except that I was about to die.

My tent had an aluminum frame. I was trapped in a cage of conductive metal that stood tallest of anything for a quarter mile in any direction. I was certain the lightning would find me. As fast and close as it came, it seemed impossible that it wouldn’t. For 25 minutes I crouched inside the tent, wrestling the wind to keep its floor down, listening to the sky make sounds I’d never heard and haven’t since—like great sheets of fabric ripping and fighter jets buzzing just overhead. And layered on top, the cacophony of the strikes. And then, as suddenly as it started, it stopped. After a few retreating rumbles, the creek fell quiet.

The floor of my weatherproof tent was under an inch of water. My sleeping bag was sodden and all my gear soaked. I was so spent that I hardly noticed: I have probably been more frightened in my life, just for a moment or two, but never have I been so terrified for so long. I bailed out the water as best I could, collapsed on my wet bag, and slept like a boulder.

Mind you, I was on land. I can’t imagine what it would be like to encounter such a storm on open water in a small boat. I hope to never find out.

Excerpted from Chesapeake Requiem: A Year with the Watermen of Vanishing Tangier Island (Dey Street, 2018). A long-time reporter at the Virginian-Pilot, Swift wrote six previous books and has contributed major features to Outside and other magazines. He is a fellow of Virginia Humanities at the University of Virginia. He lives in Afton. earlswift.com

 

Symmetry

The vital importance of a bicycle helmet
By Rachel Z. Arndt

The further I move from the accident, the more the scar above my lip becomes just another point in my morning makeup routine, the more the scuffed right bike brake becomes a slight rough patch I can feel with my palm. I remember not the accident itself, only what happened around it: the unremarkable February morning in Brooklyn, the black car I hailed from the street outside the hospital, the way my roommate’s mouth opened when he saw my eyes, the flowers my office sent, the swelling, the ever-ballooning swelling, the Vicodin-induced calm. It never hurt as much as I thought it should; I thought it should hurt. I was not stared at; no one stared. I was hit by a car; a driver ran his car into me.

I always thought it was a story about symmetry: Before and after, bicycle and car, unscarred face and scarred face, passive and active retellings. But the mottled narrative refused to seep out, and what could have been a trauma-induced fear of riding a bike never manifested in part because there was never any recollection to base it on. I’m not telling you I was lucky; that much is obvious. I’m telling you that retrospect looks empty from here because I still can’t describe what happened beyond what I’ve gathered from the moments that surround the crash:

A driver ran his car into me, throwing me over my handlebars, throwing me face first into the pavement, which cracked my orbital bone, my cheekbone, my nose, my sinus. It split the skin above my lip. It did not break my brain because it instead broke the outer plastic of my helmet, compressing the foam cells beneath into a spooned-out dent. I came to on the grass next to the street next to the bike path, and there were people, two or three of them, and one of them kept using the word “chunk” to describe the hole above my lip. I asked if my teeth were there, and these people, these strangers, assured me they were. I was taken away in an ambulance; an ambulance took me away. My bike came with. I was not afraid because I could barely name the president, and that seemed, there in the ambulance in 2012, like some kind of revisionist joke.

At the hospital a nurse asked me to rate my pain on a scale from one to 10, and because I could not feel most of my face, and because I could remember only that it (my face) was made of fragments, and because that was an odd way to behold my own body, I added a few numbers to the dull ache of my forehead and the sharp line above my lip and said seven, which seemed strong enough to reflect what I was learning was a bad injury.

When I look at the series of photos I took of my healing face, one a day for a month, I see myself reemerge, as if machined from a heap of flesh, winter-pale and imperfectly blended. I see the right side slowly deflate to become more like the left, the cut’s redness fade into pink and then white, the red splotch in the white of my right eye shrink imperceptibly each day until, at last, it was gone.

Now, I rarely study my face so seriously. And I rarely think about breaking my face, lacking the language to come up with the right thoughts. Or I am unable to force the language I do have, finding it unrealistically brutal: I never say, “A driver hit me on my bicycle.” I say, “A car hit me,” or, more often, “I was hit by a car.” The driver disappears, and the story turns mechanical. It is called an “accident.” A “crash.” A “sudden shock.”

And when I do think about breaking my face, I can almost convince myself that I just fell, that there was no gray minivan riding the line between street and bike path. Maybe it was my fault. I broke my face. But then I remember the people who were there—not the driver, not the other drivers, but the cyclists who stopped. The point is they stopped. The point is I got back on the bike, and I started thinking about symmetry, trying to force a tidy package around an event whose memories I never formed.

But no matter how hard I thought, the symmetry never emerged. It was an accident, and nothing lined up, not even the voids. I’m now learning to give up trying to assign meaning to every detail, down to the pill the hospital nurse slipped me, the calipers to measure the cheekbones’ asymmetry, the drying blood beneath my fingernails. More often than not, there’s nothing there: The narrative won’t yield. Or there’s something, but it’s not the lesson I for so long thought I deserved—the lesson of recovery and learning to accept that a bad thing happened because bad things happen. Nothing wraps up, and what remains is only the story of how I was hit by a car—of how a driver hit me with his car and then drove away.

Rachel Z. Arndt is a writer and editor. Her debut essay collection, Beyond Measure, was published by Sarabande in 2018. She received MFAs from the Iowa Writers’ Workshop and the University of Iowa’s Nonfiction Writing Program, and a BA in creative writing and Spanish from Brown University. Her writing has appeared in The Atlantic, Popular Mechanics, Fast Company, and various literary journals. She now lives in Chicago. rachelzarndt.com

 

Missing the train

Hundreds of miles on a bicycle, one fateful decision
By Chris Register

Financial security, respect in one’s community and profession, a loving relationship, reaching old age—achieving these goals requires making good choices, time and again, one behind the other, every day, in a nearly unbroken sequence. But one bad decision—just one—can send a lifetime of good decisions into oblivion. I was reminded of this while riding my bike one late afternoon in Sandusky, Ohio, when I was nearly killed by a train.

Just thinking about it makes me feel queasy. It happened at the end of a full day of pedaling, as my mind shifted to finding the house of a nice couple who had offered me a place to crash for the evening during one of my multi-state bicycle tours. I was cruising along a highway running parallel to (in this order) a line of trees, a railroad track, more trees, a line of houses, and a street I needed to get to. The map on my handlebar-mounted phone showed that I could continue a half-mile or more, turn right, and then turn right again onto the street, and backtrack to the house. Or, I could shave a mile off my ride by cutting straight across the tracks and through the woods from where I was—a tidy little shortcut.

When we hear someone say they almost got killed, I think it’s natural to imagine a tense, touch-and-go situation from which the survivor just barely escapes. When you read “nearly killed by a train,” I’ll bet you pictured my bike halfway across the tracks as I realize the imminent danger, dodging the speeding hulk at the last moment, my helmet rattling in its wake. Maybe you envisioned a skilled conductor instantly assessing the situation and applying the behemoth’s brakes with just enough force to slow it down and buy me time as the train’s growing headlight washes out my face, and its furious horn roars my demise.

The truth is—though I very nearly died that afternoon—I never got near the locomotive. My brush with death occurred several seconds before the train even neared the crossing, as I flirted with a decision that could have been the most cataclysmic of my life. Here’s what really happened:

I came to an unmarked farm crossing—a gravel drive departing the highway and running across the tracks, making my shortcut idea even more appealing. I vacillated for a few pedal strokes, literally leaning towards the crossing, glancing back at my GPS, still rolling along the highway. At the last moment I chose to stay on course, mainly because of the bike’s momentum (it was packed with 100 pounds of gear) and my desire to avoid riding up into the wrong backyard by mistake. Turning my head away from the tracks, I noted a low rumbling nearby. I had just begun wondering about the sound when its source burst out of the shaded wood with terrifying speed, severing the gravel crossing in two.

Though surely just an Amtrak commuter with its dull silver cars, or a freight-hauler covered in bulbous graffiti, my memory has long since cemented the train as an evil thing—a matte-black harbinger of destruction, bellowing acrid smoke, guided by the searing eye of Tolkien’s Sauron, fixated on my death.

Flying past, the beast left me dumbfounded, disturbed, shaken. As I had been considering whether to take the shortcut, it never so much as flitted through my mind that an actual train might actually be hurtling towards the crossing at that moment. Had I decided to cross the tracks, I would never have thought to slow down and look before doing so. I would have arrived a split-second before the train, and then exploded into a thousand pieces.

But I hadn’t chosen to take the shortcut. That fickle decision that turned out to be right, that flip of a coin in my favor, is the only reason I’m here to tell the story.

Chris Register is the author of Conversations With US—Great Lakes States (Spoke & Word Books, 2019). He is an instructor at Charlottesville’s Writer House, runs a writers’ critique group at the downtown library, and is in the process of writing more volumes for his Conversations With US series. conversationswithus.com. spokewordbooks.com

Categories
Unbound

Riding lessons: A cyclist learns a lot about himself—and America—on an epic tour

On six-week jaunts over several years, Charlottesville’s Chris Register crisscrossed the country on his bike, interviewing people for his book series Conversations With US: Two Wheels, Fifty States, Hundreds of Voices, One America. The first volume, published in early 2019, is based on his 1,916-mile trip through the Midwest and Great Lakes states. Here, he offers a personal account of his journey and mission.

When I graduated from law school in Washington, D.C., in 2009, partisanship and political bickering were the worst I’d ever seen. I thought it would be cool to get out there, talk to people, and find what’s really going on. I did my first tour in 2010, nearly 2,000 miles, interviewing at least one person a day about their views on America.

After that tour, I took a break to work and save up my money, always knowing I’d get back to my tours and writing. In 2015, I quit my job and started my second tour. That’s recorded in the first volume.

Register’s book and more information about his travels are available at conversationswithus.com.

I’ll write about Charlottesville in the book that covers what I call Appalachia and bluegrass country. I remember coming down out of the Shenandoah mountains and riding straight to the Lawn. I interviewed two students—one of them came to the book-release party. That was cool. The next day I rode up to Monticello and spoke to Linnea Grim, the director of education and visitors’ programs. I ended up settling down here.

In all the ground I’ve covered, two stories really stand out. One is about the vastness of this country, and the other is about learning to walk in another person’s shoes.

I’m 39, so I grew up well after the civil rights movement. Most people my age or a little younger haven’t actually talked to someone who had to sit at the back of the bus. But when I was in Elgin, Illinois, I interviewed Ernie Broadnax. Ernie was the only black player on his debate and basketball teams in high school and community college. He told me, after a win, his white teammates would celebrate at a restaurant, but one of them would have to bring his meal to him on the bus. That upsets me. It gets me in the gut.

The other story unfolded at the Grand Canyon. I arrived at dusk. There was a full moon rising. After I set up camp on a rock outcropping at the edge of the canyon, I looked down and thought I saw the haunch of a large, brown animal that had moved around a rock. An hour later, after sunset, the moon was bright. I stood up and was looking out over the canyon. There was a sort of gray-blue hue to everything. I was soaking it all in. It was beautiful, an endless view. I looked to my left and saw bright flashes, like Morse code: dot, dot, dash. I finally realized what it was—a mountain lion. It had looked right at me, and the moonlight reflected off the lenses of its eyes. I never saw it again. If he wanted to get me, he would have. But he didn’t.

Ultimately, I’ve learned that I can do more than I ever thought I could. I climbed 12,000 feet to Independence Pass, outside Aspen, Colorado. My bike and gear are 125 pounds in all, and the oxygen gets kind of thin up there. I pressed on slowly, and I made it. Writing is like that, too. If you just keep going, you can do anything. Determination is the most important factor in success.
Chris Register, as told to Joe Bargmann

Chris’ stats

15,769 miles

6,307,600 crankshaft revolutions

376 interviews

355 days on the road

47 flat tires

Categories
Living

Warriors for peace: Charlottesville’s volunteers span the globe

By Karen L. Mulder

What do Clinton’s secretary of health, the founder of Netflix, a prominent African American sculptor, and one host of “This Old House” have in common? Each served in the Peace Corps: Donna Shalala in Iran, Reed Hastings in Swaziland, Martin Puryear in Sierra Leone, Bob Vila in Panama—and don’t forget Jimmy Carter’s mother, Miss Lillian, who nursed lepers in India at age 68.

The Peace Corps is still the heartiest expression of Kennedy’s challenge to do “what you can do for your country,” and one of the most effective delivery programs for American goodwill overseas. Not everything conceived in the 1960s still works that well, but if you’re wondering whether current global affairs derailed this vision, look no farther than Charlottesville.

Last year, the Charlottesville area had the most Peace Corps volunteers per capita in the nation. And among universities, UVA came in second place this year, with 74 Hoos in the field—missing a tie with top-ranked University of Wisconsin-Madison by just one. You can bet that Peace Corps campus recruiter April Muñiz (Senegal 2010-2012) and regional recruiter Matthew Merritt (Lesotho 2013-2015) will redouble their efforts in 2019. Merritt and others chalk up Charlottesville’s Corps spirit to a community of retired, civic-minded citizens, a large refugee population, and a university that’s increasingly become globally oriented.

Since 1961, a cumulative tally of about 230,000 PCVs nationwide, aged 18 to 87, has served in 141 countries. Each year, a corps of 3,000 begin their service with an intensive, three-month training in language, health care, and acculturation. They acclimatize in their host country, which has invited volunteers for specific, localized projects, starting a 27-month tenure under experienced instructors. Up to a fourth of each cohort drops out.

UVA sent 74 new recruits to the Peace Corps this year, missing a tie with top-ranked University of Wisconsin-Madison by just one. Hoos are currently serving in more than two dozen countries across the globe. Courtesy Peace Corps.

Last month, new initiates and returnees tossed back the hops at Champion brewery during a welcome home/send-off blast, and screened Girl Rising, a documentary about girls seeking education in adverse situations—a scenario that PCVs often witness firsthand.

Cliff Maxwell (Nepal 1979-1981), for instance, taught only 16 girls in a school of 435 students. Anna Sullivan (Bolivia 2005-2007) befriended an illiterate mom of six who explained that as soon as she could write her name, in second grade, her family yanked her out of school to work. Muñiz observed how Senegalese boys reached high school, but girls got pulled into the workforce by their early teens.

Now recruiting from Newcomb Hall, Muñiz was almost 40 when she left for Senegal after a 20-year career in pharmaceuticals, inspired in part by her godparents’ positive Peace Corps experiences in Kenya during the 1970s.

Muñiz’s primary collaborator in the small city of Diourbel was a Senegalese native named Phayé, who ran a nonprofit dedicated to environmental education. Born in Dakar, Phayé remembered Diourbel as a lush, forested setting, verdant with peanut plantations and groves of fruit. When French colonizers left in 1960, many regulations also departed, and people began chopping vegetation down indiscriminately, allowing the Sahara to creep in.

“I’d listen to him and friends talk about how it used to be,” Muñiz remembers. Phayé’s life mission, and Muñiz’s main task, became educating the community’s youth, and changing attitudes. As Muñiz observed, “Outsiders come in wanting do good, but if they don’t pass along accountability, it won’t be a sustainable solution.”

Even well-intentioned international aid often misses the mark. “For instance, I looked into beekeeping and discovered a European nonprofit that bought some impressive equipment for a Senegalese community. By the time I got there, the honey hut was a junk shed, and people were back to robbing hives without maintaining them. Or, one campaign provided free mosquito netting to counteract insect-borne diseases. We’d always see those nets covering lettuce gardens.” Sustainable, practical initiatives owned by the host community are key to Peace Corps’ success.

UVA alum Henry Maillet took this photo of a boy in an UVA cap he met during his service in Paraguay. “It definitely reminded me of how small the world really is!” he said.

Rising to the challenge

To be effective, says nurse Michael Swanberg (Burkina Faso 1999-2001) “you have to work with people’s strengths and abilities, see what’s needed, and strategize in ways you never would have imagined.”

In his 40s, Swanberg became his family’s third PCV, interrupting his career to volunteer in the second-most illiterate country in the world, where teachers were being decimated by AIDS. He noticed young girls were the ones sent to the watering hole, where he and others were teaching about waterborne diseases.

“Every day, I brought chalk, and I’d teach a different letter of the alphabet,” he recalls. “And one day, one girl learned enough letters to write her name for the first time, and I thought, ‘Wow!’”

Another turning point for Swanberg, less exalted, happened when robbers broke into his house. “They took everything—including the window they came in through!” he recalls. “For the first time, I really felt like part of the community. We were all there with nothing, together. My vulnerability was plainly visible.”

After his service, Swanberg pursued education, earning a masters degree from Columbia (thanks to a Peace Corps scholarship), and teaching in Harlem. Eventually, he completed a Ph.D. at UVA on social disparities in maternal and infant health care, collaborating with a team that included two other former PCVs.

For Georgetown Law grad Chris Register (El Salvador 2001-2003), the challenge was helping Salvadorians earn a better living. Register helped organize a women’s jewelry-making cooperative, laying out a salary structure based on hourly contributions. He purchased materials and Dremel drills with an $800 Peace Corps grant—one of several project-based PC grants available, as long as host communities put up 33 percent of the requested amount.

“I was a little concerned about the men getting upset with me when their wives started making more money!” he recalls. “But they knew me,” and, against all cultural norms, even ended up babysitting during the day. “It’s completely on you as a volunteer to make things happen,” Register says. “If you want to start something, you need to figure out how to do it. The opportunities are there, but Peace Corps doesn’t exactly sit you down and tell you how.”

Last year, Register returned to see the co-op going strong, even though Peace Corps suspended its service to El Salvador in 2016. He attempted to set the business up on the internet, but says that connections are still too unreliable.

Former volunteer Chris Register on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. After his return from El Salvador, Register biked across the United States, interviewing Americans for a book project. Photo courtesy subject.

Regional recruiter Merritt, on the other hand, had better 3G service in Lesotho than he does now, in his living room near Richmond. As an undergrad, Merritt didn’t even know that Lesotho was an African country. He never took a single public health class before he found himself teaching about trafficking, HIV, and healthy sexual behavior.

At first, he basically only knew “hello” in Sesotho, and thought perhaps his red hair was causing commotion until he realized that villagers thought he was Prince Harry, who sponsors an orphanage in Lesotho. But like other volunteers, Merritt eventually found his way, helping his village raise chickens so they could earn money to buy HIV meds for a third of the community’s children, infected with AIDS.

“My phenomenal host mother became my language teacher, mentor, best friend, and if things got hard…my watchdog,” he says. “No one crossed Manthati.” She encouraged four daughters towards higher degrees in education, international relations, and evaluative theory, and cultivated beans, potatoes, and sorghum. When she suddenly died last year, Merritt says, “it was like losing a family member.” He flew back to Lesotho for the funeral and gave a eulogy in Sesotho, “crying through the whole thing.”

Making it work

Charlottesville-born Anna Sullivan grew up hearing about her parents’ Peace Corps adventures, cheerily joking from her office at UVA’s Career Center that she has failed to leave Charlottesville on multiple occasions. But in 2005, she and husband Tom moved from Belmont to Okinawa Uno, a colony of Bolivians descended from Japanese farmers who were invited to enhance agricultural yields after World War II. Bolivian Okinawans still cultivate most of the nation’s soybean harvest, and have accrued conspicuous wealth that segregates them from indigenous Bolivians, raising tensions. She befriended families that basically live Japanese lives, “right down to the karaoke bar,” Sullivan says.

Wielding only her UVA masters degree in educational psychology, Sullivan ended up constructing composting toilets, drilling wells, networking with a nun in a pickup truck who collected plastic waste from isolated settings, and coaching women to take leadership roles alongside the men in city government. When a newly elected regime of sanitation managers asked her team about building a new sewer system or a 30,000-gallon water tower, she realized their perception of what the Peace Corps did was seriously out of whack.

Working communally on a much smaller scale, she partnered with a cooperative that wanted a water testing lab, but lacked capital. “So, I wrote a grant to the Bolivian government, and we met with them…and it worked! We staffed that lab with locals we trained.” Governmental strife intervened, and one day in 2007 a Land Cruiser roared up to Sullivan’s remote work site: she had 10 minutes to join a military C-14 full of PCVs and return to the States. Hundreds of Peace Corps programs remain suspended in Bolivia.

Henry Maillet (above, left) fell in love with Paraguay and its people during his just-completed Peace Corps tour. Though he’s now back in Charlottesville, Maillet has already planned a return trip to document the effects of climate change on riverside communities.

The longest uninterrupted Peace Corps presence has been in Paraguay. Skyping from a cement hut, UVA graduate Henry Maillet admitted that he had “totally fallen” for Paraguay’s people, topography, waterways, and regard for nature. Maillet relies more on photography than language skills to socialize, mindful of the selfie’s power as an instant conversation starter. “It’s such a cool way to synthesize the experience of the moment,” he says. Working on a water supply project with a youth group, Mallet was astounded to spot a boy wearing a UVA cap. “I still don’t know how he got it…but it definitely reminded me how small the world really is!”

Now back home in Charlottesville, Maillet has already made plans to return to the country: In a few months, he and another PCV will embark on a rowing trek down the length of the Paraguay River. Working with the World Wildlife Federation, they plan to photograph and interview people from 179 riverside communities, to document the effects of climate change on their way of life.

Donning his Batten School of Leadership mortarboard for a moment, Maillet described Paraguay’s unique class structure, sorted by language rather than ethnicity or race. “Spanish is key for economic advancement,” he says, “but Guarani is the first language—it provides the social and cultural glue, it’s the storytelling language.”

A word like aranduka’a’ty simultaneously alludes to ancestral folklore and deep plant wisdom. “This is what your grandma teaches you, passed down for generations,” he says. “Every time I’ve gotten sick, my host family made some herbal concoction. When my dog got sick, my host mother made a necklace out of corn on a string, and said, ‘When the corn falls off the string, the dog will be healed.’ I was kind of like, ‘wha—? That’s crazy.’ But I learned that it’s just a fun way of saying, ‘time heals.’ She didn’t believe the corn had magical powers. She was just teaching me a fundamental truth.”

For Cliff Maxwell, tasked with teaching math and sciences in a remote village in Nepal in 1979, the question was how the Nepalese king’s insistence on British curriculum would possibly benefit his students: Why explain Ohms law of electricity to a land without electricity? Instead, Maxwell related science to local features, like water wheels, and encouraged independent thinking, demonstrating the benefits of problem-solving rather than having “right” answers.

“As teachers,” he worried, “we weren’t making tangible things like bridges or improving the water, so we never really knew if we’d succeeded or failed.” Returning in 2011, he was deeply touched to see former students running schools and health organizations; one even earned a doctorate. “But I got the sense that they were saying, ‘We don’t know that your teaching ever did anything, but staying here and living with us like you did—that was love. That was the biggest thing!’”

Maxwell cherished the simplicity and grace of Nepalese life at that time, with “no army, no crime, no police force, no overt theft or murder.” The customary PC stipend matches the local pay scale, and he says, “They had nothing—so they really knew the meaning of generosity—and I had nothing, so I was truly with them.”

Peace Corps returnees and new recruits gathered at Champion brewery for a welcome home/send-off party. Photo: Martyn Kyle

Bringing it all back home

Re-entry is rarely easy. Touching down at Dulles, Merritt says, “I was like, oh my god, a Starbucks, let me get a real coffee…and then I heard someone complaining to the barista about too much skim milk. I am so appreciative about everything now. I complain very little—except when I complain about people who complain about everything!”

As Maxwell recalls, “Wherever I walked in Nepal, I always had a place to stay. It shocked me, landing in Los Angeles and just knowing that there was nobody along the way that I could ask for a bed, or a garden hose for a shower. I felt utterly alone.”

The “plasticness” of American society galled him: “Nepal completely changed the way I thought about my home culture. Here, you can buy an apple any day you want, but it never tastes like much—there, even wormy and half rotting, they tasted real.” After studying cultural anthropology, Maxwell left for Sri Lanka on a Fulbright Scholarship, researching his UVA dissertation on Theravada Buddhism. He eventually landed at UVA Global, and teaches development theory from a Buddhist perspective.

Like many volunteers, Chris Register says he got much more back from the Peace Corps than he gave, and calls it the best decision of his life. Since his return, he’s left law to focus on connecting to people, biking through the entire U.S. and interviewing “real” Americans in every state about issues that matter to them. He’s turned the project into a book series, which he recently launched at Peloton Station.

“The best overseas money the U.S. government spends” is the $410 million allotted annually to the Peace Corps, he says. “What I know is, there are at least 150 people in El Salvador who know not all Americans are big jerks. They got to know a real person.”

Raised in Venezuela, Karen Mulder is an art and architecture commentator and a writer/editor who has called Charlottesville home since 2000.


Harriet Kuhr, executive director at the International Rescue Committee. Photo: Nick Strocchia

On the home front

Many Peace Corps alums continue their humanitarian work after they’re back in the U.S., and in Charlottesville, returned volunteers have brought their energy and problem-solving skills to a range of local initiatives, from public policy to education. Here’s just a sampling of projects powered by former volunteers:

International Neighbors
Kari Miller (Thailand), founder

Miller started International Neighbors in 2015 to help Charlottesville’s growing number of refugee families find community connections and support.

EcoVillage Charlottesville
Dave Redding (Korea), co-founder
EcoVillage is an innovative residential development, off Rio Road, that seeks to foster community and sustainable living.

International Rescue Committee

Harriet Kuhr (Zaire/Congo), executive
director, and Elizabeth Moore (Cameroon), New R
oots coordinator
The Charlottesville office of IRC helps refugees and asylum seekers settling in our area to rebuild their lives. Their New Roots program operates an urban farm, community garden, and neighborhood farm stand.

Center for Nonprofit Excellence
Christine Nardi (Botswana),
executive director

CNE helps nonprofits increase their impact through training, consultation, and connection with community resources.

Network2Work and
Great Expectations, PVCC

Sarah Groom (Grenada), peer
network coordinator

Network2Work connects community job-seekers with employment opportunities and training, while the Great Expectations program helps students who were or are in foster care meet their career and education goals.