Local author Marc Boston appears at Dairy Market on March 15. Supplied photo
Growth spurt: Local author Marc Boston writes stories for young people that emphasize the importance of diversity and inclusion. His newest picture book, A Promise to Grow, was created in partnership with area nonprofit City of Promise, which works to end generational poverty and foster a culture of achievement in all kids. Set in Charlottesville’s Westhaven community, the story follows CJ, whose pride in his neighborhood and kind heart move him to create a community garden. The book’s foreword tells a child-friendly, yet candid version of the loss of Vinegar Hill, and the afterword, written by Andrea Douglas and Jordy Yager, discusses pivotal moments and figures in the community’s history, including John West, a formerly enslaved man who became a civic leader. Following a reading by Boston, the community will work together to create a mural that will be displayed at Dairy Market.
Design your own succulent garden at Brigid & Bess. Supplied photo
Easy greens: Tired of the winter white? Add a little greenery to your life with a Succulent Garden Workshop. Fifth Season Gardening teaches you how to select, assemble, and care for your own succulent garden, before giving you the chance to flex your green thumb and design a perfect plot. You’ll leave with something that will turn your friends green with envy! Snacks and drinks are provided at this two-hour workshop.
The delicious smell of fresh-baked croissants will soon waft from Cou Cou Rachou bakery at Preston Plaza. Photo: Staff photo
Hello to Cou Cou
Charlottesville croissant connoisseurs and Danish devotees are buzzing about the debut of Cou Cou Rachou, the new bakery from Rachel De Jong. After receiving her pastry chef certification from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, De Jong spent the last 12 years refining her skills in expert kitchens, including Gearharts Fine Chocolates and the three-Michelin star-rated The Inn at Little Washington. After her 2020 bakery launch was thwarted by pandemic restrictions, De Jong began working as the executive pastry chef at The Wool Factory’s The Workshop, where she will continue to proffer her pastries at the boutique wine and coffee shop after her flagship location opens in early summer. We are particularly excited to try the French onion croissant and sourdough boule when Cou Cou Rachou opens at 917 Preston Ave., next to Sticks and Mona Lisa Pasta.
Dairy Market adds some sizzle
Dairy Market’s dining options continue to grow with the addition of South and Central from Ten Course Hospitality Group. The new upscale restaurant opened on May 20, and offers locally sourced, flame-grilled delights with thoughtful wine pairings and Latin-inspired entrées. Also new at Dairy Market is Manila Street, where you can get your fill of Filipino fare—and keep your eyes peeled for soon-to-open Citizen BurgerStand, the all-vegetarian GRN Burger, and Asian eats from Mashu Festival.
Old concepts in a new way
In 2018, chef Antwon Brinson founded his mission-based company Culinary Concepts AB, which develops passions by teaching real-world skills through the language of cooking. Over the years, Brinson has established several culinary training programs, including one in the local jail. After being forced to adapt to the pandemic environment, Brinson discovered that he enjoys teaching online: Joining aspiring cooks through virtual lessons has allowed the Culinary Concepts team to help people rediscover the limitless possibilities available to them in their own homes. As a result, Brinson will continue his cooking school virtually for the foreseeable future.
The classes are designed for all skill levels, and come with an hour of live training, a shopping list, a recipe, and a recording of the lesson. The best part? You can learn to make a dish like steak au poivre with as many people as you can squeeze into your kitchen.
Get out of the office again
Ready to get out of your makeshift home office? Devils Backbone Brewing Company is offering nature lovers the opportunity to win a full month’s stay in a vintage Airstream at its Basecamp Brewpub and Meadows. Along with spending September away from everyday life, the winner will receive a $1,000 DB gift certificate, four passes to the DB campground, and weekly Slow by Nature experiences. These include tours of the property, a chef-curated picnic and hike, horseback riding, and an “elevated” dining experience at DB’s Arbor & Sheath restaurant, all surrounded by the beautiful scenery of the Blue Ridge Mountains. More details at dbbrewingcompany.com.—Will Ham
Angelic’s Kitchen offers homestyle soul food delights seven days a week.
Staff photo
In an ongoing effort to support local dining establishments during the pandemic, our writers have been enjoying a variety of takeout meals from some of their favorite restaurants. Contribute to this ongoing series by sending your own delicious experiences to living@c-ville.com.
When your soul needs soothing, Angelic’s Kitchen offers a variety of fried foods, as well as homestyle sides. Unable to decide, I ordered Angelic’s Sampler Tray so I could try a little bit of everything. It came with fried fish, two crispy wings, mac-and-cheese, hush puppies, cheese sticks, and street corn fries with ranch and marinara. There’s enough here to share, and my roommates got to feast on what I unfortunately could not finish from my delicious meal. The hush puppies and mac-and-cheese were the best part of my order. (You know a hush puppy is going to be good when you can see real corn on the inside.) The mac-and-cheese was clearly made with love, and had gobs of melted cheese and a crispy top. Next time it will be a large order of mac, just for me. While I feel I got an ideal sampling of Angelic’s food, I’ll be back soon because I can’t stop thinking about everything else on the menu. The service was also excellent. Angelic herself enthusiastically welcomed me to her Dairy Market stand, which is open seven days a week, gave me my order, and was eager to offer me extra sauces. I felt like I was at home in my own kitchen. —Madison McNamee
Ivy Road House
4300 Three Notched Rd.
ivyroadhouse.com
The menu at the new Ivy Road House has something for everyone. The wide-ranging offerings from chef Christian Kelly (Maya) infuse traditional American fare with Asian and Mediterranean influences, and feature small plates, entrées, salads, a kids’ menu, and even family meal packages. I decided to order the best of all words—artichoke corn cakes (featuring cilantro and kimchi mayo), lamb meatballs with braised greens, tzatziki and harissa, and the (phenomenal) Winter Vegetarian Lasagna comprised of sweet potato, spinach, roasted red pepper, and herbed ricotta cheese. I recommend IRH for the sauces alone—all of them are housemade and unique. The bistro, located outside Crozet, opened for take-out in January and dine-in in March. There’s a price adjustment to account for the packaging costs, but the food is worth the few extra cents. Each takeout container is microwave-safe, to ensure a proper warm-up if you have a long car ride home. —Desiré Moses
Wayside Takeout & Catering
2203 Jefferson Park Ave.
waysidechicken.com
It’s just chicken, man—and I mean that as a serious compliment. Wayside doesn’t get cute. Its fried chicken is everything fried chicken should be: crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, salty enough to sting your lips, and greasy enough that the box gets damp. Scarfing down a couple of wings will leave you in a glorious, satisfied haze. The sides complete the picture. The coleslaw cuts the grease a bit, the beans add a little sweetness, and the cornbread fills in the cracks—if you still have room.
The Jefferson Park Avenue shop has always done a brisk takeout business, so the pandemic hasn’t disrupted its usual system. The decadent chicken is affordable, reliable, and fast. You can’t eat like this every day, but it would be a sad world if you couldn’t eat like this once in a while.—Ben Hitchcock
Shadwell’s Restaurant is shuckin’ things up through Sunday at Oystravaganza.
file photo
Setting new tables
Ivy Road House is a new restaurant that focuses on familiar comfort foods while taking inspiration from a wide variety of cuisines. The menu includes everything from tzatziki-laden lamb meatballs, to roasted chicken with onion jam and maple glaze, to a veggie-based lasagna. Created by Christian Kelley, co-owner and executive chef at Maya, and realized in the kitchen by Chef de Cuisine (and Albemarle native) Malek Sudol, Ivy Road House is open for dining in and takeout.
The Ridley—named for Walter N. Ridley, who had to persevere through years and layers of resistance to earn his doctorate in education from the University of Virginia in 1953—opens on April 1. Hospitality partners Warren Thompson and Ron Jordan aim to provide a city dining atmosphere complemented by a sophisticated combination of Southern and coastal cuisines.
Located in The Draftsman Hotel at 1106 W. Main St., The Ridley will add to the growing number of local Black-owned businesses, and a portion of profits from the restaurant will go to the Ridley
Scholarship Fund, which supports diversity and equity in education.
Following a successful preview weekend in February, Broadcloth, the fine-dining addition to the Wool Factory complex, is set to debut March 26. The eatery features locally sourced seasonal fare with options of four and six courses, plus the ultimate chef’s tasting menu, with up to 10 dishes. Chef Tucker Yoder has been rustling up grub in Charlottesville for over 20 years, and he plans to use his decades of experience to wow the limited number of guests the restaurant will serve each night. Tables are by reservation only.
Shell out for this
Shadwell’s Restaurant, located on Pantops, hosts its annual Oystravaganza through March 28. The Charlottesville fave will serve up oysters on the half shell, plus oysters stewed, stuffed, and fried. Cast a wide net and get your fill with a three-course sampler for $44.
Spring for this
The Catering Outfit is offering takeout Easter dinners for about $50 a head. Order by March 30 for rosemary-crusted rack of lamb, deviled eggs, and hearty spring vegetables cooked with a locally sourced honey glaze. Á la carte dishes and kosher versions of the meals are available too.
Beer with me
Dairy Market continues to grow in popularity and size with the opening of Starr Hill Brewery’s new taproom this month. Starr Hill Downtown offers a curated selection of beers brewed in-house, including well-known classics plus limited-run specials, so there will always be something new to try.
Crust this one
Luce is expanding its housemade gelato menu this week with two new flavors: caramel banana bread and almond biscotti, and fans of the Italian take-away spot will be relieved to see both stuffed-crust pepperoni pizza and spaghetti carbonara returning to the Luce lineup. —Will Ham
ABC is upping its slice game. Photo by John Robinson
By Will Ham
New year, new nosh
Dairy Market continues to expand its offerings with Saturday’s grand opening of Springhouse Sundries. Springhouse is designed by members of the Wine Guild of Charlottesville, including former Tavola wine director Priscilla Martin Curley, as an affordable place to discover high-quality wines and beers with the help of in-house wine experts. Want to make a picnic? The new shop promises an array of charcuterie and fine cheeses to pair with your vino.
If the line out the door is any indication, Albemarle Baking Company is holding steady, despite the economic downturn. The longtime local favorite is now selling cake by the slice in different flavors depending on the day, as well as king cakes for the upcoming Mardi Gras season.
Mellow Mushroom is also adding to its menu with a new selection of health-conscious “lifestyle pies” that include gluten-free, vegan, and keto options. In addition, the Corner mainstay is offering pizza and wing Super Bowl deals, as well as large pies for just $10 on Mondays.
Little Star has expanded its takeout hours, and is now open from 11:30am to 7:30pm, Wednesday through Saturday. And new to its menu is limited availability Italian sports car-themed deli sandwiches, such as the Alfa Spider, a spicy combo of ham, mortadella, salami, marinated tomato, lettuce, onion, aged pecorino, hot peppers, and house dressing on ABC semolina Italian loaf. Be sure to order ahead because these sammies have been racing out the door, often sold out by noon each day.
What is that smoke we smell floating in from nearby? It must be The Whiskey Jar’s can’t-miss Wednesday special: whiskey-infused, hickory-smoked brisket. If you’re equally starved for live music, the Jar remains a great place to hear Charlottesville musicians in a distanced setting.
Bread and butter investment
One local food and drink establishment has adopted a creative strategy to cope with the pandemic strain. The Wool Factory, a polished collection of dining venues inside a reclaimed textile factory, is offering gift cards in the form of investment bonds. This new initiative gives patrons an opportunity to purchase gift cards that appreciate over time: up to 50 percent of their original value after a year. The food and bev cards are redeemable at Selvedge Brewing, The Workshop, and the soon-to-open restaurant Broadcloth, and are available in amounts of $50, $100, and $500.
Closed doors
Last month we published a roundup of the restaurants we lost last year. Unfortunately, the list continues to grow. Littlejohn’s Delicatessen, a staple for UVA students and C’ville residents alike, closed temporarily at the start of the pandemic. While it has not issued an official statement of closure, it seems unlikely that it will reopen on the Corner. We also lost several locally owned and operated franchises, which employed over 80 full- and part-time workers: Wendy’s on Route 29, Hardees on Pantops, and Burger King at Barracks Road. Additionally, Glaze Burger & Donut is closing its doors at the end of the month. These closures once again remind us that our local dining establishments are counting on steady support from the community to stay in business. Check out our list of area restaurants doing takeout and curbside at cville.com.
Guajiros Miami Eatery is on the move from its Woodbrook location to 817 W. Main St., the former home of Parallel 38. Look forward to authentic Cuban and Latin American dishes such as pressed sandwiches, Venezuelan empanadas, and lots of plantains, plus a hearty breakfast menu that’s served all day. Order ahead at guajiros.net or call 465-2108.
Butchering with Boo
If your dream date includes butchery, cookery, and a distinct lack of tomfoolery, hold on to your hats (and knives). JM Stock Provisions on West Main recently announced the return of its pig butchering classes, where you’ll learn to break down a whole pig, and put it all on the table. Tickets, sold in pairs, cost $200 per couple. Next class is December 2.
Zoomsgiving
With the COVID-19 pandemic still raging, it looks like we’re going to have to get together apart for Thanksgiving this year. So who’s gonna make the gravy? Lucky for us, several area restaurants are offering prepared, take ‘n’ bake meals. Boar’s Head Inn is cooking up Thanksgiving dinners for $25 each; The Ivy Inn’s takeout turkey meal for two goes for $100; and Feast! gives you “everything but the bird” for around $75, with vegetarian alternatives available. The Catering Outfit fills its Thanksgiving food box with a heritage black turkey plus traditional favorites, feeding four for $225. The Blue Ridge Café is serving up four-courses to go, as well as in-house dinner reservations from noon-4pm on Thanksgiving Day. And Moe’s BBQ will smoke a turkey and spiral you a ham, along with other catering options, at its two locations.
Dairy buzz
Dairy Market announced several new tenants: Bee Conscious Baking Company’s Alexis and Patrick Strasser purchased their 24-acre Goochland farm in 2019, and say their first storefront will focus on sustainability and conscious eating. From The Wine Guild of Charlottesville comes Springhouse Sundries, a hub for wine, beer, and food pairings. And Little Manila food truck chef Fernando Dizon will dish up homemade Filipino specialties at Manila Street, where you can dig into spring rolls, pork belly, and pancit noodles—recipes that have been passed down through generations to find us here in Charlottesville. Dairy Market is slated to open before year’s end, with hours from 8am-9pm on weekdays, and 8am-10pm on weekends.
The latest addtion to the Downtown Mall’s dining scene is Champion Hospitality Group’s Passiflora, offering a refined combo of Tex-Mex and Baja Mediterranean cuisines. Photo by Eze Amos
Tacos in the sky
As the season turns, the Downtown Mall is also seeing some turnover, starting with Champion Hospitality Group’s just-opened culinary venture, Passiflora, which offers Tex-Mex and Baja Mediterranean cuisine. While we are still mourning the loss of Commonwealth Restaurant & Skybar, it’s good to see new openings on the mall. “We put our hearts and soul into this restaurant, and we are excited to share it with Charlottesville,” says General Manager Elizabeth Hood.
Expect to find small plates for around $10, local brews, and plenty of vegetarian options. CHG hopes to finish renovations on the rooftop open-air bar in time to catch the last warm nights of the year: “You can absolutely expect to see live bands as part of the experience,” says Hood. Passiflora is open Thursday through Tuesday, and accepts reservations and walk-ins.
Nod to Nosh and hello wraps
Another transition took place on the outer rim of the Downtown Mall—Modern Nosh closed its doors in September. Known for kosher fare and loaded sandwiches, Modern Nosh was established with a mission to give back to the community. Over two years, the restaurant donated hundreds of pounds of bread and benefited non-profit organizations like The Women’s Initiative and the Companion Animal Fund.
“We are so sad to be leaving,” says owner Stephanie Levin. “With the large number of business people not coming back to work downtown, the loss of tourists, and the lack of outside seating, we just couldn’t find a way.” Levin hopes to reinvent Modern Nosh along with its vision of supporting the community sometime next year. “Numerous people have asked me to open a food truck—maybe so,” she says. “If I find a commercial kitchen, perhaps I will stick to catering.”
Otto Turkish Street Food is slated to open in the space on November 1, introducing yet more authentic flavors to Charlottesville. Owners Ali Sevindi and Haldun Turgay worked at The Clifton together for five years before officially partnering up. Now, they are excited to serve fast-casual fare like döner kebabs (seasoned meat stacked in the shape of an inverted cone that cooks slowly on a rotisserie) and homemade sauces at the corner of Southwest Second and Water streets. Specializing in wraps and bowls, Otto Turkish will have two rotisseries to choose from; one chicken and one a mix of beef and lamb.
Jughead’s a regular
Dairy Market’s food-and-beverage hall is quickly filling its 18 stalls, adding two more merchants this month. Moo Thru, a favorite ice cream stop for D.C. commuters, is expanding to a fourth location in the heart of Charlottesville. The family-operated creamery behind Moo Thru will supply dairy products to market vendors, including The Milkman’s Bar, the cocktail joint from Ten Course Hospitality. Milkman’s promises to be a ’50s-inspired soda-pop shop straight out of Archie comics—but with a lot more of the hard stuff.
Tom Bowe, owner of Take It Away, says the beloved sandwich shop “always focused on the house dressing from day one.” (Photo: Amy and Jackson Smith)
Take It Away will open a new location in the Dairy Market food hall this summer, but the beloved sandwich shop won’t break with tradition, according to founder and owner Tom Bowe. Bowe says he and his team will roll out the recipe that’s made his restaurant a Corner institution for more than 27 years.
But what, exactly, is that recipe? One condiment, says Bowe. We “always focused on the house dressing from day one.”
Take It Away’s dressing is a simple combination of mayonnaise, whole grain mustard, herbs, and spices. But the sauce’s uncanny ability to liven up sandwiches has anchored a menu that’s changed little over the years. From traditional turkey and ham to signature sandwiches like the Wertland Italian—genoa salami, swiss cheese, banana peppers, roasted tomatoes, and red onion—Take It Away’s handhelds are made with all-natural meats and cheeses, served on fresh bread and garnished with veggies like sprouts, cucumbers, arugula, and romaine lettuce.
In addition to excellent eats, Bowe says he’d also like folks to take a feeling away from his deli, the feeling that they’re part of a community.
“We don’t make people stand in line and treat our customers like livestock,” Bowe says. “We like to provide a party atmosphere, let people mill about the store, and hang out till their name is called.”
Bowe believes his signature sauce and Take It Away’s atmosphere set the place apart from other Corner sandwich shops and “gourmet” sub slingers. But of course not everyone agrees. The shop’s small interior can fill up quickly, and the party atmosphere can verge on chaotic. Plus, can you really keep crafting sandwiches for nearly 30 years without making a few changes?
Years ago, Bowe considered tinkering with his house dressing. Could he make his mayonnaise in-house? Maybe a different store-bought mayo could save him a few bucks and still cut the mustard?
The answer was “no” on both counts. The sauce’s cream base, which Bowe won’t name, had to stay the same. “We use a different blend than you find in supermarkets, with higher egg content that holds together better,” Bowe says. “I’ve never been able to find another one that’s good.”
Bowe says his new location will feature minor tweaks. He’ll update his color scheme to be more contemporary, and expand his hot sandwich offerings. Think pastrami reubens with Take It Away’s signature dressing and a “good Cuban.”
Bowe hopes the outpost will attract clientele who shy away from the student-heavy Corner location. Still, he isn’t trying to forget on which side his bread is buttered.
“Students are a huge part of our identity,” Bowe says. “I’m wired differently. I like the crowded streets when the students are here. It adds a certain excitement and vibe, and it’s kept me in business.”
Soul food chef Angelic Jenkins checks on construction progress at the future Dairy Market food hall, where she and her husband, Charles, were the first tenants to sign a lease. Photo: Amy and Jackson Smith
Angelic Jenkins felt worried as she walked into the community meeting. A big development, Dairy Central, was getting started on Preston Avenue, and talk among folks in the adjoining, predominantly African-American neighborhood of 10th and Page had not been good. Charlottesville has a woeful history of displacing black residents, and this new place, they feared, would be just another chapter in that book.
“When the story first came out, there was a lot of backlash, especially on social media,” says Jenkins, 51, co-founder and -owner with her husband, Charles, of Angelic’s Kitchen and Catering. “A lot of my close friends who live there in the neighborhood were very negative. They said, ‘They’re going to come in here and take over the neighborhood, where there’s already nothing for us.’”
With a scheduled opening in early 2020, Dairy Market is poised to join the food hall trend, while also adding to Charlottesville’s growing reputation as a food and drink destination. Photo: Courtesy of Dairy Market
A lifelong Charlottesville resident, Jenkins felt differently, but she was afraid to express her opinion publicly. After years of operating her soul food business out of a truck, she was the first entrepreneur to sign a lease for the initial phase of the project, the Dairy Market food hall, an ambitious concept—and part of the larger Dairy Central development—led by Charlottesville’s Stony Point Design/Build. The Dairy Market is scheduled to open in the spring of 2020, with Starr Hill Brewery as an anchor tenant, according to the developer.
The Jenkins got in on the ground floor—609 square feet of it, to be precise—after hearing from Stony Point president Chris Henry, back in 2018. At the community meeting, Henry said that Dairy Central would be open to all, with a public space offering food from 18 vendors and live entertainment.
“Everyone is welcome—he made that very clear,” Jenkins says. “When I walked into that meeting and saw a lot of individuals who live in that neighborhood, it calmed my soul. When people saw me walk in, an African American woman who had the opportunity to open a restaurant there, I think it calmed their soul also.”
Jenkins has worked for 19 years as the head of HR for the DoubleTree by Hilton, but five years ago she and her husband bought a food truck and launched Angelic’s Kitchen. Her specialty is fried fish, a Southern staple she fell in love with as a child attending festivals with her mother.
“I was intrigued by all the tents and people selling food outdoors,” she says. “When I did my first festival, I got a head rush from it.”
She served some of the food left over from the event at a family gathering. “And they said, ‘Why don’t you sell some of these dinners?’ I did that for a couple of days and realized, oh my gosh, there’s a lot of money to be made. Then I decided, okay, I’m going to do this the legal way,” she says with a laugh.
She entered a program for entrepreneurs at the Community Investment Collaborative, received her catering license, and went on to rent a nearby commercial kitchen, Bread and Roses. At CIC she also found a manufacturer for her fish breading. She had it bagged so she could coat and cook fillets on the spot at festivals.
Those took place in the summer, but Jenkins wanted to extend her selling season, so in October 2018 she and Charles bought a food truck to make the rounds at local wineries and fall events. “Someone approached me at a festival and told me about some kind of building that would be opening on Preston Avenue in 2020,” Angelic says. “She gave me her card, but I thought nothing of it. But I saw the woman again, and she said, ‘We’re having a meeting about that project I mentioned.’”
She was heartened to see Chris Henry at the first meeting she attended. “He said, ‘Everyone in the neighborhood is welcome.’ That made me feel good. They want the local people involved.”
The Jenkins received a call from Henry’s office soon after the community meeting, and after hearing the details of the planned food hall, they signed a five-year lease.
Today, they’re awaiting approval of their architectural plans for their space in the Dairy Market, and Charles is speaking with retailers about selling Angelic’s Kitchen fish breading.
“The business is growing,” she says. “We’re just really excited about the opportunity to have our own place, so people have access to us every day, versus trying to catch us at the food truck.”
Jenkins’ fried fish will be the central menu item at the Dairy Market space, but other soul food—mac ‘n’ cheese, collard greens, barbecue chicken quarters, and more—will be offered.
What I like most about [the Dairy Market] is that they’re focused on local entrepreneurs,” she says. “I never expected to have a restaurant. It’s a chance I can’t resist.”
