Categories
Arts

Funk DJs Grits n Gravy want to rock your soul

Robin Tomlin has one of the most recognizable voices in local radio. He barks a mile a minute in a rapid British accent, breathlessly reading back a list of obscure soul and funk songs on The Soulful Situation, his Monday afternoon radio show. Colin Powell (no relation to the former Secretary of State) is comparatively mild-mannered, but beneath his calm demeanor hides a razor-sharp wit and an impressive record collection. The talkative middle-aged British expatriate and the mild-mannered twenty-something American—both white—make an unusual pair. And they might not be the first act that comes to mind when you hear the phrase “classic American soul music.” But great music has a way of persisting through the ages, infecting even the most unexpected of devotees. As The Grits n Gravy Soul and Funk Revue, the duo have been throwing some of the best dance parties in town, fueled by an impeccable selection of soul and funk records from the 1960s and ’70s.

Tomlin grew up as a “mod” in the late-’70s UK, and his fixation with bands like the Specials and the Clash led to the discovery of James Brown (“Live at the Apollo was released the month before I was born,” he noted) and an ensuing obsession with soul music. He moved to the U.S. in ’86—“I flew into Dulles because it was the closest to the D.C. Go-Go scene,” he said—and ended up in Richmond, before making his way to Charlottesville in the ’90s.
Powell hails from nearby Nelson County. He is the grandson of a Baptist preacher, and was raised in a family that listened mostly to bluegrass. A high school interest in hip-hop led to a search for the original sources of sampled breaks, and eventually to an immersion in the Internet subculture of obsessive record collecting and trading.

The duo met while volunteering at WTJU. In early 2010, after a station fundraiser, Powell proposed the idea of the two of them hosting a regular monthly DJ series featuring vintage soul and funk records, and the suitably named Grits n Gravy was born. Their early gigs were a joyous, often unpredictable affair. Rowdy bar patrons repeatedly requested recent Jay-Z singles, or drunkenly demanded to hear Lady Gaga. But as the evening wore on, anxieties would loosen, and the crowd would end up shaking a leg to killer cuts from a bygone era. Vintage soul and funk is a genre that everyone enjoys (in theory), and Grits n Gravy is the perfect opportunity to put that appreciation into practice.

Alongside recognizable classics by James Brown, Otis Redding, and Sly and the Family Stone, the duo has a stable of reliable would-be classics that, despite their obscurity, are no less effective on the dance floor. Some songs are so infectious, you feel you’ve heard them before—or at least should have. Don Gardner’s “My Baby Likes to Boogaloo” is a personal favorite. Tomlin is particularly fond of “Can’t Find Nobody (To Take Your Place)” by Percy Wiggins of Memphis, as well as “Double Lovin’” by Percy’s brother, Spencer Wiggins. And a night on the Grits n Gravy dance floor remains incomplete without their unofficial anthem, “Funky Virginia,” a 1968 Norfolk-based single credited to Sir Guy.

While the discovery of rare records is its own specialized skill, the charm of soul is easily appreciated, and in recent years, many listeners have jumped on the funk bandwagon. Labels like Stones Throw and Numero Group have released numerous compilations of unknown classics by countless regional acts, and the bands on the Dap-Tone roster have stoked this flame by backing singers like Sharon Jones and Charley Bradley, giving them a second chance at a music career and introducing them to a new generation of fans.

Tomlin and Powell have twice made a pilgrimage to Ponderosa Stomp, a New Orleans-based festival “dedicated to recognizing the architects of rock-n-roll, blues, jazz, country, swamp pop, and soul.” The second year, they performed at the festivals’ Hip Drop pre-party, and have an open invitation to return. They also put their talents to use whenever a touring soul act makes its way to Charlottesville, and have performed as an opening act or after-party closer for Sharon Jones, the New Master Sounds, the Budos Band, Charles Bradley, and Al Green.

Since March, they’ve settled into a monthly gig at the Black Market Moto Saloon. “The nice thing about it is that people don’t just wander by when they’re wandering from bar to bar,” Tomlin said. “If they’re coming all the way over here, they’re coming to see us.” “More and more, people are coming here specifically to hear Grits n Gravy,” Powell added. “We have no idea who these people are. We’ve never seen them before, but they’re here for the music, and they love it.”

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News

Green Scene: Steps to Sustainability

Teri Kent (far left) with members of the staff of Woodard Properties, where employees propelled themselves to a win in the Charlottesville Better Business Challenge by transitioning to a paperless office. Photo by John Robinson.

Challenge reveals ways businesses can trim waste

More than 100 Charlottesville businesses recently wrapped up the year-long Better Business Challenge, a contest organized by local sustainability advocate Teri Kent, in which they collected points by incorporating ways to make their businesses more environmentally friendly. The results not only showcase a major volunteer effort to take tangible steps toward sustainability, they also offer some helpful insights into how others can follow the lead of the businesses that decided to go green.

“It was such a friendly competition, with everyone encouraging the other participants,” said Liz Eure, director of marketing at Carpet Plus, which took home an award for its efforts from the Challenge’s recent closing ceremony. “There’s such a positive outcome at the end that you want everybody to do well.”

Throughout the competition, Kent, director and founder of the nonprofit Better World Betty, stressed not only the ease of making businesses more green, but also the money that’s saved along the way—even with small adjustments.

“I used to ask businesses, ‘How many of you have old incandescent exit signs? Because it’s costing you $102 a year. You can switch to an LED exit sign and only pay $3,’” Kent said.
Other changes Kent advocated were converting from disposable to non-disposable dishware, switching out paper towels for normal towels, replacing overhead lights with individual task lights, and incorporating single stream recycling.

Woodard Properties took the bold step of going paperless, said Kent—quite a feat for a property management company. But using digital files for everything from records to newsletters and coupons can help cut costs as well as waste.

Electricity use was a frequent target during the challenge, too. Kent recommended more businesses be aware of their air conditioning use, suggesting they appoint someone to turn off the AC at night and on weekends.

“What drives me crazy is that a lot of Charlottesville businesses run the AC so cold,” she said. “And when you open the door and let the cold air all out, that’s a huge thing, because that’s literally energy being completely and utterly wasted.”

One way to target places to cut back is by using kilowatt meters on different appliances. Local nonprofit JAUNT did so with its business, and found that its vending machine was a big culprit. “We put a timer on the machine,” said executive director Donna Shaunesey. “There’s no need to keep drinks cold at night, and that was really easy. And it didn’t have any impact on comfort.”

Kent said that above all, the key to success is having multiple people work together to brainstorm ways to keep improving sustainability. “The businesses who were able to accomplish the most were the ones that had more than one person working on it. They all got together with staff and pooled ideas and asked ‘What can we do as a business to be more green?’”—Ana Mir

A green primer

The 107 businesses that joined the Challenge cut back on energy use and waste in a variety of ways. Here are some suggestions from top performers that offer a lot of bang for your buck when it comes to making businesses—or homes or schools —more earth-friendly.

Carpet Plus: Let the light in. Install solar tubes, skylights, and glass doors—more natural light means less electricity used.

Blue Moon Diner: Compost your scraps. Leftover food eventually makes great fertilizer, and you’re diverting waste from the landfill.

VMDO Architects: Give business to the good guys. Have a list of priority suppliers that aim for sustainability within their own companies.

GreenBlue: Set the temp. Install a programmable thermostat for more efficient cooling and heating.

For more tips and information, visit www.betterworldbetty.org

 

BULLETIN BOARD

Climate court battle: Virginia Attorney General Ken Cuccinelli’s challenge to the EPA’s greenhouse gas “endangerment finding,” which says emissions put human health and welfare at risk, was struck down in Federal court last week. Attorneys out of the Southern Environmental Law Center’s Charlottesville office represented a Norfolk environmental nonprofit in the case—a group that has spoken out on climate change following noticeable sea level rise in Virginia’s Tidewater.

Cycle party: Bike Charlottesville is launching a regular First Thursday Cruiser Ride, a fun way to join other bikers and roll through town on the first Thursday of every month—with an emphasis on fun and safety. Meet outside of Squid Logistics, 315 W. Main St. at 6pm. July 5; the group will return to the same spot by 8pm.

Tree ID: Learn to identify Virginia’s native trees using leaf, bark, branching, seed, and flower characteristics during a free guided walk with a Forest Service expert in the Ivy Creek Natural Area. The tour leaves the ICNA parking lot at 2pm. Saturday, July 8.
Teri Kent (far left) with members of the staff of Woodard Properties, where employees propelled themselves to a win in the Charlottesville Better Business Challenge by transitioning to a paperless office.

Categories
Living

Best power lunch spots in the city

Charlottesville’s power lunch scene’s a far cry from D.C.’s, but there’s still plenty of wheeling and dealing being done over the midday meal. Here’s where our town’s most influential go to discuss, deliberate, decide—and eat.

Everything served at Aromas Café in Barracks Road is fresh yet fast, and ordering the mezza trio of Mediterranean favorites is an easy way to break the ice.

Whether it’s patio weather or not, Bizou draws a crowd for Caesar salad with herbes de Provence-crusted fried chicken and irresistible grilled banana bread with ice cream and caramel sauce.

The scene at Hamiltons’ at First & Main remains quiet and serene despite its legion of fans who go for the vegetarian “blue plate special” or one of the restaurant’s inventive salads.

When you really want to make a good impression, the short drive out to Fossett’s at Keswick Hall is well worth it. You can count on the service and food being impeccable and the setting heavenly.

Orzo’s always bustling, but you can sit on the mezzanine for some privacy and the Greek salad or grilled flatbread pizza. A great wine list sweetens the deal.

Start your meeting on the drive up Route 20 to Palladio Restaurant at Barboursville Vineyards because once you’re there, the extraordinary food, wine, and ambiance will command your attention.

With big booths and round tables, Peter Chang’s China Grill can accommodate large groups that appreciate a spicy departure from the typical lunch.

There’s plenty of privacy on Petit Pois’s spacious patio, where sliced baguette and sweet cream butter prime the appetite for bistro classics like mussels and steak frites.

Tastings of Charlottesville is one of Downtown’s best-kept secrets. You’ll keep your anonymity while dining on delicacies like soft shell crabs and paella. You’re more than covered in the wine department too.

Tempo’s new to the lunch scene, but the power players have taken to the tucked-away Fifth Street location and twists on lunchtime classics like the salmon BLT.­—Megan J. Headley

The power burger
Citizen Burger Bar’s got a burger on the menu to satisfy the big spender with an extravagant palate. The Executive stacks wagyu beef, foie gras, a fried farm egg, Nueske’s bacon, onion, and rosemary aioli on an Albermarle Baking Company-baked brioche bun that’s slathered with black truffle butter. Served alongside a pile of skin-on, double-fried Citizen fries, it earns its $25 price tag.

(Photo by John Robinson)

The anti-power lunch
For those who think that time is money, grabbing lunch from a cart and eating it on the go is more their speed. Tyler Berry, the man behind the Catch the Chef cart on the Downtown Mall, spent eight years at the Bavarian Chef in Madison before going mobile. He had been splitting his skills between a taco cart and a hot dog cart, but he’s merged the two and can be found on Third Street (between Bank of America and Virginia National Bank) Mondays through Saturdays from 11ish to 3ish. Go for ready-in-a-jiffy yet fried-to-order hot dogs, Italian sausages, and French fries or tacos and burritos with your choice of chicken or beef. Everything tastes even better with “the works” sauce—a mixture of ketchup, mustard, relish, cayenne, and black pepper—and because nothing costs more than $5, you save money and time.

Categories
Living

Pie in our eyes: Seven ways to get your fill

Dessert trends come and go, but a good slice of pie stands the test of time—especially when it’s filled with seasonal fruit and served à la mode. Here’s a deep dish worth of local choices of America’s most classic dessert.

The individual peach pies at Albemarle Baking Company might be small, but the double-crusted delights are packed with Henley’s Orchard peaches and topped with sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg for $4.95.

Local peaches are the filling du jour at Anderson’s Carriage House too, but the pies there get a crumbly topping made with oats, flour, butter, spices, and plenty of brown sugar. Get a slice for $2.99 or a whole pie for $12.99.

The local peach pie at Breadworks looks pretty enough for the windowsill, with a lattice-style top crust that’s egg-washed and sprinkled with sugar for $13.95.

Life is a pieful of cherries at Chandler’s Bakery, where you can get a cherry pie topped with a lattice crust or a crumb crust for $10.99.

Relish the final strawberries paired with its tastiest partner, rhubarb, at Family Ties and Pies, a vendor at the Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday farmers’ markets. The Meynig family’s strawberry-rhubarb pie has an all-butter crust with a lattice top and comes in two sizes: small for $7, or large for $15.

Berries unite in Foods of All Nations’ raspberry, blackberry, blueberry pie with a tender, shortening-based double crust for $10.99.

Buttery pastry crust goes freeform at Paradox Pastry with the individual-sized rustic crostade that’s filled with almond cream and fresh raspberries for $5.

Easy as crisp
Making a flaky, tender homemade crust isn’t exactly easy as pie. Flour-coated fat particles need to stay separate and cold, so butter or lard must be cut in and then ice water added gradually yet quickly.

Forget about it if you want to make a double crust. The term “upper crust” refers to early American times when only affluent households could afford ingredients for both the upper and lower pie crusts.

Rather than take the Pillsbury way out, commit this crisp recipe to memory, fill a 9″x13″ dish with your favorite fruit, and after 45 minutes at 375 degrees, you’ve made your pie and can eat it too.

Crisp topping
1 1/2 cups flour
3/4 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup light brown sugar, packed
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1 cup old-fashioned oats
1/2 pound cold unsalted butter, diced

Pick your own filling
Nothing beats a pie oozing with fruits you picked yourself. Here’s a list of where and when to pick spring and summer’s sweetest.

Strawberries
Mid-May to June
Critzer Family Farm, Seamans’ Orchard

Cherries
Late June to July
Seamans’ Orchard, Spring Valley Orchard

Blackberries
June through August
Hill Top Berry Farm & Winery

Blueberries
June through August
Berry Patch of Free Union

Peaches
July and August
AmFOG, Carter Mountain Orchard, Chiles Peach Orchard, Critzer Family Farm, Drumheller’s Orchard, Dickie Brothers Orchard

Pit stop
Make quick work of pitting a pound of cherries with this cherry pitter from The Happy Cook ($14).

Or, channel MacGyver and use a paper clip. Unfold it at its center, and depending on the size of the cherry, insert either the large or small end of the clip through where the stem was. Loosen the pit, and pull it out. If you want to leave the stems intact, insert the clip into the cherry’s bottom.

Categories
Living

C-VILLE Kids: Careful what you say, our girls are listening

Here’s a familiar scenario: Preschool-aged girl walks into a room sporting a pink tutu, butterfly wings, and a plastic tiara. She’s wielding a fairy wand and spinning on child-sized high heels emblazoned with the cameo of a Disney princess. She seems delighted with both herself and her appearance, and you can’t help but notice she seems to “sparkle” both inside and out. You comment, “Oh, you’re so cute. I love those shoes!” Harmless right? Um, maybe not.

Lisa Bloom, author of Think: Straight Talk for Women to Stay Smart in a Dumbed-Down World, says this is precisely where we’re leading impressionable young females astray, indicating to them that appearance matters above all else. In her Huffington Post piece, “How to Talk to Little Girls,” Bloom suggested that these typical icebreakers with little girls might be an important reason why “25 percent of young American women would rather win ‘America’s Next Top Model’ than the Nobel Peace Prize.”

If you think that’s a stretch, consider that while females have closed the gender gap in math and science achievement on standardized tests in recent years and now outnumber men in undergraduate, graduate, and professional school programs, they still remain significantly underrepresented in the fields of science, technology, mathematics, and engineering, according to the most recent studies of the National Science Foundation.

Fight fire with fire
Try these alternatives to mainstream “girlie” fare.

If she’s obsessed with the Disney Princesses: Introduce her to Disney’s Mulan, which tells the Chinese folk tale of a peasant girl who saves the kingdom and the prince, turning “happily-ever-after” on its head. (Just don’t let her see the crappy merchandise, which royally screws up the message.)

If she loves to play dress-up: Opt for accessories that encourage creativity and imagination. Simple play silks like the ones offered at Sarah’s Silks can become princess headdresses, wings, capes, and doll slings.

If she likes books about fairies: Read her some of Elsa Beskow’s line-up of picture book classics that emphasize the magic of nature, such as Children of the Forest and Peter in Blueberry Land.

If she likes to play with dolls and dollhouses: Try the Schleich line of action figures, which covers a wide gamut from fantasy characters to “farm life” figurines, with animals and related scenery.

If the Lego princess castle set was a hit: Try Magna-Tiles—an assortment of colorful building shapes that can be made into an infinite number of buildings and objects.—K.L.

Now consider what you might say upon meeting a preschool-aged boy. Would you gush, “Oh, I just love your cargo shorts”? Probably not. More likely you’d probe his interests to get him talking: “So, do you like dinosaurs? How about trains? I bet you like trains!”

Let’s excuse, for the moment, the possibility of the boy feeling oppressed by the stereotypical expectations underlying those questions. That’s a topic for another day! The point is that by asking him about what he likes, you’re getting at what he thinks, not what he looks like—and that matters.

It matters, because these social interactions fuel children’s implicit biases about what it means to be a girl or a boy—what they should do, like, wear, and play.

It matters, because as Bloom discusses in her book, women are spending exorbitantly more time and money on daily grooming and cosmetics than in decades passed, and just how are girls supposed to change the world when they’re stuck obsessing in front of the mirror all day?

Dr. Brian Nosek, a professor of psychology at UVA and one of the authors of a 2002 study in the Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, “Math = Male, Me = Female, Therefore Math ≠ Me,” explained it this way: “A stereotype is information that gets encoded in our memories and shapes us. You don’t have to believe the stereotypes to be impacted by them.”

In other words, if you asked our little tutu-wearer, “Can girls like dinosaurs?” She might, in fact, say yes, because maybe her well-meaning parents have told her that explicitly. The notion that a dinosaur-loving girl is an exception, however, won’t be lost on her, nor will the fact that the dinosaur display at the big box toy store features only boys in the advertisements and the clearly marked “girl” toys are relegated to the back of the store in a sea of dizzying, Pepto-Bismol pink.

“A lot of who we are is in reaction to the social expectations of us. We select the options that are attractive to us, but what shapes what is attractive to us is what culture expects of us,” said Nosek.

Praising little girls for their appearance might be nothing new, but when you combine that kind of talk with the larger societal phenomenon that is the recent monotonous pink-ifying and princess-ing of girlhood, the effect of these little conversation starters seems much more coercive.

But let’s back up: Don’t girls just like pink?

Growth of the “girlie” girl
According to Jo B. Paoletti, professor of American studies at the University of Maryland and author of Pink and Blue: Telling the Boys from the Girls in America, the color pink started to become primarily associated with femininity only as recently as the 1950s. It wasn’t even until the mid-1980s, says Peggy Orenstein in her book, Cinderella Ate My Daughter: Dispatches from the Front Lines of the New Girlie-Girl Culture, that amplifying age and sex differences became the dominant marketing strategy for children.

Boys and girls actually are quite similar at birth, explains neuroscientist Lise Eliot in her book, Pink Brain, Blue Brain: How Small Differences Grow Into Troublesome Gaps—And What We Can Do About It, and it’s parents, teachers, and the culture at large who unwittingly reinforce differences into gender stereotypes. It’s what happens to kids’ brains that’s the truly scary part, however. Just one word: neuroplasticity. This is the scientific fact that our brains are constantly being rewired by our experiences, and for developing children, this is especially potent.

Of course there’s much more to the science of “nature versus nurture” than can be explained here, but Nosek sums it up in practical terms: “Once you learn something, it’s typically hard to unlearn it, and the early exposure matters.”

From “cute” to hot
Is it really any wonder that many a “girlie” girl moves on to feeling compelled to achieve an amped-up, boob-augmented, Botox’d version of what it means to be a woman shortly thereafter and would rather win a reality show than run a lab?

Orenstein explains the trajectory this way: “[Girls] rebel against the ‘cuteness’ in which we’ve indulged them—and, if we’re honest, imposed on them—by taking on the studied irony and indifferent affect of ‘cool.’” And for girls coming of age, Orenstein said, being “cool” means looking hot. Well, there’s no shortage of available indulgences there—I’m looking at you, tween-sized thongs.

The American Psychological Association recently evaluated this issue in a 2010 Report of the APA Task Force on the Sexualization of Girls in which they found the culture’s increasing emphasis on young girls’ sexiness has negative effects on their cognitive functioning, physical and mental health, sexuality, and attitudes and beliefs.

At the very least, our girls are not digesting this notion of “girlie” without the potentially negative undertones also conveyed.

Whitney Morrill, local mom of two and creator of parenting blog thecoconut girl.com, was concerned when she recently heard her young son and daughter using “girlie” to describe a toy in what seemed a derogatory way.

Speaking of herself and her husband, she said, “We don’t use that term. What does it mean? I worry about the connotation. Does that mean something is uninteresting? Weak?”
Even local mom Lisa Stewart’s 4-year-old daughter has gotten wise to the subtle insult of girlie-girl cues, or at least the unwanted attention on appearance. Says Stewart: “Cute is a loaded word in our household. I was told, ‘Cute makes me uncomfortable.’”

An uphill battle
So what’s a parent to do? Forbid princess dresses? Outlaw lip-gloss until the age of 18? Never praise our daughters on their appearance?

Surely that’s not the answer. Orenstein even speculates that backlash against a “neutered” form of femininity fed to this generation of mothers by their bra-burning, leg hair-embracing predecessors might contribute to acceptance and endorsement of this “post-feminist,” girlie-girl culture.

And what happens when we do outwardly reject behavior and interests society has programmed our girls to radiate? If we tell our daughters that princesses are stupid, but they’ve already fallen in love with Disney’s Ariel, will they come to believe they’re stupid too?
“It takes a lot of effort to raise children,” said Morrill. “Comments that don’t get course-corrected can become a belief—attitudes about everything from race to war to food. It’s hard to be on top of everything.”

As an example, Stewart said she even has to be vigilant about filtering catalogues that come unsolicited in the mail. (You know, those Halloween ones hawking sexy pirate costumes for 6-year-olds?) And she laments: “Now I have to choose between the pink box of Legos and the blue box of Legos? My brother and I were just happy to play with Legos.”

Recently, Stewart said, she felt compelled to buy one of each to balance out the message—clearly, a toy marketer’s dream scenario.

The bottom line
“It’s almost impossible to avoid implicit biases. There’s no way to prevent it from happening,” said Nosek. Also, he said, directly insisting on the inaccuracy of the bias doesn’t generally work either. Instead, providing alternatives that challenge our daughters to rethink the stereotypes themselves is key.

“Have her reason it through,” said Nosek. “Ask, ‘Why do you think that?’ Get at the origins of the belief and then provide some counterexamples.”

Morrill said that with her daughter, “We’ve made a concerted effort not to say ‘Oh, you look nice’ the moment she comes downstairs in the morning. We try to greet her as a person and talk about something other than her appearance—‘How did you sleep?’”

Nosek said that it’s everyday experiences like these that matter: “Even a subtle clue such as a female teacher conveying that she doesn’t like math herself could have a big impact on whether stereotypes are reinforced or not.”

Nosek may have it easier than most. Both he and his wife are scientists so there’s an obvious implicit bias-busting example right there.

Morrill, who’s an architect, said, “I think the most important thing for my children is to see me thriving. Whether you choose to be a software engineer or a stay-at-home mom—what’s injurious to girls is seeing their moms unhappy or in a place of inner conflict. I want my daughter to see that whatever choices I make are ones that support my joy. Then she’ll know to seek that even if her joy will be different than mine.”

The bottom line is parents are not powerless here. We can provide positive examples for our daughters; we can offer them a license to question the mainstream girlie-girl culture; we can, occasionally, buy the blue box of Legos. With our words, actions, and wallets, we can encourage them to embrace being girls without limiting their options or full potential as human beings.

Categories
Living

C-VILLE Kids: Confessions of a stay-at-home dad

If I’m being completely honest, I had no idea what I was doing four years ago. I still vividly remember my baby son’s mother walking out the front door for her first day back at work and as she drove off, thinking, “O.K., now what?” If it were a movie, the camera would have started with a close-up of me standing there at the door, baby in one arm, and then slowly pulled away as we continued to stand there with equally helpless looks on our faces.

I had some notion of what to do—where the bottles were, how to feed the baby and change his diaper—but up until that point, we’d not spent huge blocks of time together. In fact, I’d avoided precisely that, instead choosing to spend my free time next door drinking beer.

As doomsday neared, I continued to avoid the task at hand. How difficult could it be? Short answer: hard as hell. Babies require constant attention. Even when they’re sleeping, you have to check on them constantly to make sure something hasn’t gone wrong. On top of that, my son didn’t sleep more than 30 minutes at a time. When he finally did doze off mid-morning, I had priorities: eat some breakfast, use the bathroom, then drink a cup of coffee while smoking a cigarette. The problem was that the slightest creak of a floorboard or the hinges on the front door could jar him awake. It rarely worked out for me.

The other challenge was the boredom. There’s not a lot you can do with babies. You can feed them, bounce, or hold them. Once my son started to crawl, it made a big difference because we had a room barricaded in the back with padding on the floor. I’d set him down and as he slowly explored, I’d crack open a book, like Ron Rosenbaum’s Explaining Hitler, which I recall reading during those days. That’s the kind of mood I was in.

Lastly, there was the isolation. Most stay-at-home moms have a network of women to get together with and bond over their experiences. That never really seemed like an option for me. If anything, I felt like a male interloper, and so me and my baby spent long blocks of time together. I talked to him and kissed him. We went on lots of drives and walks, and we also danced quite a bit, in particular, to The Clash’s Sandinista and its crooked, crooked beats. That way I could keep it interesting for me while trying to teach him a little rhythm.

A few years later, I’m still at it, but we’ve added another baby son. While daddy daycare continues to kick my ass, this time I know what I’m up against, at least when it comes to the infant. The real challenge is the baby from way back then who is now a know-it-all kid. He and I are still figuring out how to do things, a little worse for the wear, but also a bit triumphant. We’ve made it this far, and as Luther Vandross once sang, ain’t no stoppin’ us now.

Categories
Living

Town & Country: Big Fun, Scottsville punk, and Charlottesville in the ’90s

From left: Jessika, Peggy, Zachary, Sara, Shira, and Ray hang out on the Big Fun front porch in April 1996. (Courtesy Big Fun Glossary)

Big Fun: Zachary was heard answering the telephone “Big Fun,” and quickly that name stuck as the name for the isolated yellow house in the middle of the blowing field on Fairview Farms north of Scottsville, Virginia, wherein lived The Pegger, Sara, Jessika, Zach, and Josh.

Sometime in the late ’90s, while searching online for information on getting high via over-the-counter drugs, I stumbled across a bizarre website detailing the adventures of a bunch of punk rock kids living in a big house in the country, right outside my hometown of Charlottesville. The website was called The Big Fun Glossary, an alphabetical list of terms and definitions and tales of “impromptu punk rock concerts, Dextromethorphan chug-fests, Nomadic Festivals, nazi skinheads, and (most importantly) record alcohol consumption.” It was something I’d dreamt of finding for a long time—a perfect bohemian scene hidden right in my backyard. Only, by the time I’d found it, it was already gone. All that remained was this crazy website.

SEE FOR YOURSELF:www.asecular.com/bigfun

Have you ever had a period in your life, be it several years or a single day, when, in retrospect, everything that happened seems to have been of utmost importance? Despite the drama, the craziness and perhaps the very real harm that was done, looking back it all seems so beautiful and golden that you wish you could keep it forever, like a flower frozen in amber.

The Big Fun Glossary captures just such a moment: “state-of-the art youth hedonism” as practiced in Charlottesville in the mid-’90s. It reads like a reality show version of On The Road, a devil’s dictionary filled with gossip, social criticism, and philosophical musings, where people with names like Morgan Anarchy and Diana the Redhead live in a state of enlightened poverty and angry joie de vivre, hoisting jugs of cheap wine like weapons in a war against the straight-laced forces of oppression.

UVA: At Big Fun, UVA is seen more as something to be mocked and exploited than revered and attended. Part of that mocking was well accomplished the night that Morgan, Ray, and others thoroughly spray painted the Rotunda, the holiest of holies wherein lies a copy of (drum roll) the Declaration of Independence, signed by Thomas Jefferson on July 4th, 1776 (a fact that makes the United States of America a Cancer).

This particular moment in time began in the fall of ’95 and ended in the summer of ’96, a roughly eight-month period that Gus Mueller, the author of The Big Fun Glossary, now sees as a turning point in his life. Banned from Oberlin College for lighting his dorm room on fire, the 27-year-old was living on his parents’ farm outside of Staunton. Bored and broke, he began driving over the mountain to Charlottesville, where he met Jessika, Sara, and Peggy, three refugees from suburban Pennsylvania, aged somewhere around 19, known collectively as the Malvern Girls.

Having been kicked out of several residences in town owing to the noise, fights, and general chaos that seemed to follow them wherever they went, the Malvern Girls decided to escape to somewhere isolated, a punk rock Walden where they could pursue inspiration and intoxication without anyone bothering them. They found what they were looking for just north of Scottsville: a two-story, yellow farmhouse in the middle of a field that became known as Big Fun.

There might be a God after all: On days following the use of Tussin, the weather always seems to be warm and sunny, even though most of the winter of ’95-’96 has been horrible. For some reason, the Gus feels pleasant and content after a night of Tussin abuse, and he is given to saying such corny things as “there might be a God after all.”

Gus has always compulsively documented his life, largely through daily journals he’s kept since basically forever, but also by painting and the creation of countless websites. When the Malvern Girls and their motley crew moved to Big Fun, “[t]hings,” the glossary tells us, “gravitated increasingly towards anarchy,” an anarchy that Gus began to immediately try and capture. “I was fully immersed, of course,” he said. “I wasn’t completely remote. But it definitely felt like it was a project for me.”

The denizens of Big Fun seemed to have their own language, an ever-evolving argot with a heavy emphasis on astrology. Gus began collecting interesting words and phrases and laying them out in the form of a glossary. The fall of ’96 was warm and beautiful. Gus would arrive for the weekends loaded with provisions filched from his parents’ kitchen. There was a “disastrous” housewarming party, and trips into Scottsville to frighten the locals. The drug of choice at Big Fun was Tussin DM, an over-the-counter cough syrup containing Dextromethorphan, which in large quantities causes a dissociative, hallucinogenic high. Many days were spent under its influence wandering through the woods and exploring abandoned houses. “When you’re on Robitussin,” Gus said, “everything feels like you’re in The Wizard of Oz.”

Glossary, The: Opinions on the glossary are varied. Sara Poiron, who resents her definition, has said “I hate the glossary.” When Jessika let everyone at the C&O read an earlier version of the glossary, they all said the same thing, “That guy sure has a lot of time on his hands.” Jessika’s mother found the glossary useful because it built a linguistic bridge across an otherwise uncrossable generation gap

At first the glossary contained only 150 words. Sneaking into the UVA computer lab, Gus would print out copies and hand them to various people to read. The glossary is hilariously unfiltered. Real names, real opinions, even real e-mail addresses are used. Some complaints were registered. Aaron the SHARP (Skin Head Against Racial Prejudice) threatened to break Gus’ hands, although he never did. Most definitions were left unchanged with the complaints added in italics. “When you write something about people, nobody’s going to be happy with it,” Gus said. “I mean, I’m going to hate this thing you’re about to write.”

In May of ’96, local musician Jamie Dyer used his job at Comet.net to put the glossary on the Internet. The Web was still in its infancy then, and the first digital iteration of The Big Fun Glossary was one long page with almost no pictures. Still, it was thrilling for Gus to see his work online. “The Web,” he said, “was amazing to me in those days.”

Gus also got a job at Comet.net. Tasked with staying up all night to guard the computers against catastrophe, he was basically paid to work on the Big Fun Glossary. “They were paying me $6 an hour,” he said, “so they didn’t expect much.”

Tattoo: Everyone thinks ‘Big Fun’ would be a good tattoo, but what would it be like having that on your arm even 10 years from now? And ‘Big Fun” just invites trouble when we inevitably end up in prison.

The finished website contains 666 terms, lots of pictures and no ads. It’s a sprawling, labyrinthine entity, filled with internal links enabling the reader to navigate by whim, moving from word to word with no need for a beginning or an end.

Matt Farrell, owner of Hypocrite Press and himself part of the Big Fun scene, has turned the website into a book called Concerning Big Fun, purchasable from lulu.com. But to truly experience the glossary, you should follow the advice at the bottom of its introduction: “This is a post-modern work whose design encourages jumping around and even accidentally missing parts. Whenever one reads anything, one zones out and misses parts, so missing parts of this literature is not something to lose sleep over.”

Punk rock: Idealism has been seen as ineffective (just look at the ’60s, man!), and the only solution is to withdraw from society. For example, at Big Fun, news is completely ignored and any new weather system that comes through is a complete surprise. Should the fascists take over completely (and they almost have), no one at Big Fun will be aware of it until the tanks come rumbling down that long dirt driveway.

A host of problems contributed to the end of Big Fun, but the biggest was the record-breaking cold that winter.

“People were just kinda like wearing lots and lots of layers under blankets, with electric space heaters blaring in their rooms with the door shut,” Gus said. “Their electric bill one month was like $2,000. …So they just didn’t pay it, ’cause that’s what you do when you’re 19 and you have an electric bill you can’t pay. And so then another month came and they didn’t pay that one, and eventually the electric company turned off the power.”

“It was just unlivable. No toilets were flushing, they were shitting in the woods.” And so everyone went their separate ways, and the Big Fun moment was over.

Big fun: A state in which for the most part all the people participating in an event are not bored, angry, sad, or asleep. When big fun is obviously no longer present, it is customary for Sara Poiron to say, “big fun has left the building.”

Gus is now 44 and living in upstate New York, where he’s a database developer. His wife Gretchen is a poet and teacher at Bard College, helping local prison inmates get degrees. They do not have children (they’re “philosophically opposed to reproduction”), but they do have five cats and three dogs. When asked where he was educated, Gus is fond of answering, “At Big Fun.”

If you were alive and young in the ’90s, The Big Fun Glossary rings astonishingly true. It is, I firmly believe, a lost Gen X classic about a small but vital part of Charlottesville’s history. But even if you never had a mohawk or listened to Nirvana, there’s much to enjoy and learn swimming down its chaotic streams. The Big Fun Glossary is a field guide to joyful anarchy and a perfect portrait of a long gone, golden moment.

Categories
Living

From our farms to our tables

 

Farm to table eating isn’t new. In fact, it’s as old as the farm day is long. But when it became cheaper and easier to produce and distribute processed foods, we went from a farm-to-table nation to a factory-to-drive-through one. In the past decade or so, as we’ve become more concerned with the safety, seasonality, and freshness of our food, we’ve seen a renaissance in eating closer to the source. We’re putting our food back into the hands of our farmers. Here are some of their stories as well as some tales of the shepherds bringing it to our tables. The season’s ripe for the picking—pull up a seat.

 

 

Andrea Hubbell and Sarah Cramer Shields

Sharing a plate
Not only do friends Sarah Cramer Shields and Andrea Hubbell share office space and a career as photographers, but they also share a love for food and telling the stories of the people who grow it, make it, and cook it. During a gastronomic tour of New Orleans earlier this year, they laid down plans to collaborate on a project profiling local farmers, bakers, chefs, and enthusiasts through a written and photographic narrative centered around their contributors’ preparation of a favorite recipe. Last month, they launched the project, titled Beyond the Flavor, and have posted a new story and dish every week. You’ll get a taste of their work in several of the stories to follow, but for a complete meal, check out beyondtheflavor.com.

Left: Caromont Cheese joins prosciutto, roasted pecans, and a vinaigrette on a bed of arugula—all local! Right: Gail Hobbs-Page’s popular Caromont Cheese biz grew from a small herd she adopted to provide her with fresh milk. (Photos by beyondtheflavor.com)

A Gail and her goats
For Gail Hobbs-Page, the chef-turned-farmer and cheesemaker at Caromont Farm in Esmont, April is an especially busy month in an always hectic year. This is the month when she begins making the addictively tangy goat cheeses that grace salads, sandwiches, and cheese platters all over our town and at farmers’ markets, restaurants, and gourmet shops up and down the East Coast.

Hobbs-Page’s 50-goat herd, which grew from the adoption of a few dairy goats in 2001 when she wanted a personal stash of raw milk to drink, now works as a well-oiled, cheese-producing machine. The goats breed late fall, gestate through the winter, bear their kids in February, and are weaned by March. Come April, the first two hours of Hobbs-Page’s mornings are spent milking her dairy herd of 32 goats. She repeats the same thing 12 hours later, using the interim to process all the milk she gets—about 80 gallons a day—into cheese.

In simplest terms, after adding a bacterial culture and rennet to the milk, the curds separate from the whey and what we know as cheese is underway. Pasteurized milk is used to make “fresh” cheese, which gets molded into disks of creamy cheese, like the Farmstead Chèvre, which is aged fewer than 60 days. Unpasteurized milk is used to make “raw-milk” cheese, but since the FDA requires that it be aged more than 60 days, it’s far from an immediate process. The 2.2 pound wheel of Esmontonian—semi-firm, pungent, and grassy—gets rinsed with a Virginia Vinegar Works wine vinegar as it ages 120 days in the exterior cave. It lives on for months and keeps us in cheese year-round—after the fresh chèvres have long been devoured. Aging cheeses means that Hobbs-Page doesn’t have to interfere with the goats’ natural cycle or freeze curds —all important tenets to sustainable agriculture and local and seasonal eating.

Caromont Farm’s current 23-acre operation has been more than a decade in the making, but Hobbs-Page’s passion for using local ingredients has roots in the 26 years that she worked as a professional chef. Having cooked at restaurants like North Carolina’s The Magnolia Grill and The Fearrington House before coming on as the chef de cuisine at Hamiltons’ at First and Main (where her husband, Daniel Page, still works as the general manager), Gail became a forerunning advocate of preserving local flavors and tra-
ditional food cultures. She’s Central Virginia’s version of Alice Waters—our grande dame of the locavore movement.

The salad Gail shared on Beyond the Flavor is a practice in all things locally-raised, hunted, and gathered. Arugula from neighboring farm Double H gets lightly dressed with a warm fig vinaigrette that uses Jam from Daniel, another anchor at the City Market. She drapes the greens with prosciutto from a pig she raised and killed herself, but the prosciutto from Olli Salumeria in Manakin easily substitutes as her favorite local alternative. She tops the perfectly dressed greens and ham with generous shavings of her aged, raw-milk Esmontonian cheese and a sprinkle of roasted pecans—Virginia ones, of course.

Find Caromont Farm’s booth every Saturday at the City Market and look for its cheeses in gourmet shops and on restaurant menus around town.

Left: Joel Slezak and Erica Hellen began Free Union Grass Farm two years ago by raising cows and chickens before discovering the need for locally raised duck in the area. Right: A plate of Free Union Grass Farm chicken, fried in a combination of lard from last year’s pig and duck fat. (Photos by beyondtheflavor.com)

Duck, duck, chicken…and cows
Jackson, the black lab, was the first to greet my daughter and me when we arrived at the Free Union Grass Farm where partners Joel Slezak and Erica Hellen own 13 acres and lease 25 acres from a neighbor on Slezak’s family’s land.

In 2010, the young couple started out raising cows (Joel’s dad raised Jersey milk cows there in Free Union) and chickens (Erica interned at Polyface Farms), but around the same time they discovered that the chicken market was flooded, they found an unfed niche in the industry. “I worked at Feast! for two years and chefs kept asking for duck,” said Joel. After doing some research, they realized that ducks thrive as pastured animals and are great for irrigation because of how much water they drink (and poop).

Erica introduced us to a flock of week-old fluffy baby ducklings who spend their first few weeks in a “toasty, predator-proof brooder” before making a home in a 12’x12′ pasture pen that’s moved each day. The ducks are killed between seven and 12 weeks depending on their gender, but getting their feathers out is another story. “It takes us about 16 hours to do 40 ducks, but only half a day to do 100 chickens,” said Erica.

Erica and Joel sold their first ducks last year to restaurants and at the City Market, and chefs and home cooks have been knocking down the barn door for more ever since. After being sold out for months, they’ve just processed a new batch of ducks and came to the second market of the season bearing whole birds, breasts, legs and thighs for confit, and even little half pint jars of duck fat—liquid gold in the culinary world.

Free Union Grass Farm’s broilers arrive on the farm as day-old chicks and keep snuggly in the brooder for a few weeks before they’re relocated to the pasture in portable 10’x12′ pens that Joel and Erica move every morning. The chickens get a new patch of grass and bugs to munch (which cuts down on the amount of grain they need) and their manure gets spread evenly across the pasture.

Their flock of 70 laying hens (who lay eggs with vitamin-rich, bright orange yolks and a colorful array of shells from speckled browns to blues and greens) roam the fields in a structure they affectionately refer to as the “Egg Roll.” A combination of recycled pine and white oak built on a hay wagon chassis, the Egg Roll gets moved to fresh grass every one to two days. Erica and Joel move it behind the cows so that the chickens can scratch out the cow patties and distribute the manure, keeping the pasture from getting clumpy, and cutting down on parasites. In the afternoon, they get free-range playtime.

Rounding out the pastures at the Free Union Grass Farm are the 10 heritage-breed British White cows (crossed with some Angus) that Erica and Joel move every one to three days to a new paddock, keeping them entirely grass-fed. The diet is healthier for the cows and the resulting beef is leaner, higher in omega-3 fatty acids, and better in flavor and texture than that from corn-fed, industrialized cattle.

Erica and Joel are growing their farm—slowly and organically—but remain planted in their belief that raising multiple species is the healthiest and most profitable way to farm. Apart from that, the secret to their success is simple. “You can’t ever sit on your ass—there’s always work to do,” said Joel.

At the end of a long day, Joel and Erica enjoy a meal made with what they’ve raised, grown, and processed themselves. In Beyond the Flavor, they lightly coat Free Union Grass Farm chicken in an egg wash and herbed dry rub and then fry it in a combination of lard (from last year’s pig) and some of the duck fat they always have in their fridge. Now that’s living off the land.

Find Free Union Grass Farm’s booth every Saturday at the City Market and look for its meat and eggs at Rebecca’s and on menus around town like The Clifton Inn, Duner’s, Mas, Maya, and Zinc.

Feast! owners Kate Collier and Eric Gertner recently celebrated the shop’s 10th anniversary with tastings from local artisans and giveaways. (Photo by Cramer Photo)

A decade of feasting
In February 2002, Feast!, the cheese-wheeling hub of Charlottesville’s foodie mecca, the Main Street Market, opened with an olive oil and vinegar filling station, 40 specialty cheeses, 10 deli and cured meats, and a limited selection of sandwiches. A decade later, this passion project of Kate Collier and Eric Gertner (who later became teammates in life, too) has grown in size and offerings with more than 75 cheeses, 60 deli and cured meats, a lunch café, a catering biz, and 20 full-time employees.

Six years ago, C-VILLE Weekly reported on Feast!’s $5 tomato, which broke down the cost of buying produce from our small local farms. Today, Feast! remains committed to showcasing the bounty of our countryside and the farmers who harvest it, convicted in its belief that locally grown food tastes better, and that higher demand will keep our farmers in business and eventually drive down the cost of that $5 tomato.

Local ingredients take center stage in Feast!’s salads (like spinach and arugula topped with Polyface chicken salad, pickled red onions, sweet and spicy roasted pecans, golden raisins, and sweet moscatel vinaigrette) and sandwiches (like the grilled focaccia panino with rosemary ham, Caromont goat cheese, Virginia Chutney Co. spicy plum chutney, and arugula). Local farmers and artisans visit after the City Market on Saturdays in July and August, spending the afternoon meeting the families that they feed, answering our questions, and providing samples of their wares.

Collier and Gertner estimate that, since opening, they’ve purchased more than $5 million in foods from Virginia businesses, donated $50,000 to local schools and nonprofits, served 750,000 customers, sold more than 100,000 pounds of cheese and 65,000 bottles of wine and employed 126 people. Talk about a fruitful decade.

 

Earning your share
CSA, or Community Supported Agriculture, is a 50-year-old model that’s still working, but how exactly? Community members (that’s us) buy shares in the spring when farmers need seed money (quite literally) and then every week come summer and fall, we pick up an assortment of fresh produce from the farmer’s market, the farm itself, or another convenient pick-up location. The original part of the model—lending our hand on the farm in exchange for our goods—has somewhat fallen away, but most CSAs are eager to work with everyone, so sometimes bartering or workshares are an option. Every week’s pickings are more or less a surprise, so you channel the Iron Chef inside of you and get cooking.

Bellair Farm CSA
5375 Bellair Farm
262-9021

What it offers: 50 different types of veggies, plus eggs and pork.
How much a full share feeds: A hungry family of four, so split a share with friends.
Cost: $600
Run time: May 21 through October
Pickup: From the farm on Wednesdays from 10am-3pm or Saturdays from 9am-2pm. You can also pick up produce at Pen Park Market (Tuesdays 3-7pm) or the Meade Park Market (Wednesdays 3-7pm).
Additional information: Shareholders have the opportunity to pick vegetables once a week from the farm’s Pick–Your-Own fields.

Iona Farm CSA
7252 Jefferson Mill Rd., Scottsville
286-3999

What it offers: 30 crops and 50 varieties. Eggs, poultry, field greens, herbs, tomatoes, cucumber, peppers, beans, peas, potatoes, onions, etc.
How much a full share feeds: A family of four.
Cost: $650
Run time: Mid-May through October
Pickup: On Tuesdays after noon inside the Iona Farmhouse.

Radical Roots CSA
3083 Flook Ln., Keezletown
(540) 269-2228

What it offers: Each half-bushel includes tomatoes, leafy greens, herbs, peppers, fruits and other organically grown produce depending on what’s in season.
How much a full share feeds: Two to three adults.
Cost: $470
Run time: June through October
Pickup: Harrisonburg at the Friendly City Food Co-op, on the farm, or at the Meade Park Market in Charlottesville.
Additional information: Shares for eggs ($60/year) and cheese and butter ($87.75 for 18 weeks gets you a half pound a week) are also available.

Appalachia Star Farm
163 Shaeffers Hollow Ln., Roseland
277-9304

What it offers: Five to nine different seasonal vegetables and occasional common herbs (such as basil and parsley).
Cost: $512.50 for a vegetable share, $538.13 for a vegetable and herb share, $1,025 for two vegetable shares, $25 for an herb share.
Run time: May through mid-October
Pickup: Meade Park Market (Wednesdays) or City Market (Saturdays).

 

Local dinner series Hill & Holler brings the table to the farm. Its second event, held inside Bellair Farm’s newly built barn, featured food prepared by Clifton Inn’s chef, Tucker Yoder, and wine from Gabriele Rausse. (Photo by John Robinson)

Popping up at a farm near you
Hill & Holler gives all new meaning to the farm to table philosophy by bringing the table to the farm. The event company, a joint effort of tavola’s general manager, Tracey Love, and Caromont Farm owner Gail Hobbs-Page, hosts dinners every few months, spotlighting a different farm, chef, winemaker, and nonprofit group at each. The dinners are open to the public—reservations are first-come, first-served—and portions of the diners’ $75-100 are donated to local food and agricultural organizations.

Both denizens of the restaurant industry, Love and Hobbs-Page launched the Hill & Holler dinner series last fall with an aim to bring farm food back outside, to remind us all of where it’s grown, and where they think it tastes best. The atmosphere is rustic—high heels and fancy clothing are not recommended—and guests help themselves to family-style platters of food and bottles of wine set directly on the table.

“My goal is to bring the community together by integrating the talents of local farmers, winemakers, and chefs at a communal dinner table. Nothing brings people together faster than sharing a meal. We are lucky to be surrounded by so many people producing amazing food and wine that it should be celebrated, and shared in return through supporting local food/agricultural/arts-based organizations. It’s all coming from the same pot and returning to the same pot. It’s a nice cycle that happens to have the added bonus of a farm dinner in the middle of it,” said Love.

The inaugural event last October took place in a field at Blenheim Vineyards and featured four courses prepared by chef Lee Gregory of Richmond’s The Roosevelt, paired with wines from Blenheim Vineyards, all in support of the UVA Food Collaborative. In January, Hill & Holler took shelter from the cold in Bellair Farm’s newly built barn and enjoyed food prepared by Clifton Inn’s Executive Chef, Tucker Yoder, with wine made by Gabriele Rausse, all to support the Local Food Hub.

Morven Farm, part of the University of Virginia Foundation, provides the bucolic backdrop for the next dinner, scheduled for Sunday, May 27 at 5pm, where Gay Beery from A Pimento Catering will cook and Andy Reagan from Jefferson Vineyards will provide the wine. Benefitting from the proceeds of this dinner is The City Schoolyard Garden at Buford Middle School, which operates two after-school programs in gardening and cooking. Fruits of the labors of both Morven Farm and the City Schoolyard Garden will be featured in dishes throughout the meal.

To make reservations or to join the mailing list to receive updates and information regarding future events, e-mail Hill & Holler at hill.holler@gmail.com.

 

Director of development and outreach Emily Manley gets to planting at the Local Food Hub’s six-acre Educational Farm, located outside of Scottsville. (Photo by Andrea Hubbell)

America’s next top model
Ever since Feast!’s Kate Collier launched the Local Food Hub in 2009, it’s been getting our attention. But now, the nonprofit that buys and aggregates goods from 70 small, local farms, distributing them to more than 150 area markets, restaurants, schools, hospitals, and institutions, has caught the eye of our federal government too.

Last month, the Local Food Hub hosted a group of Senate Agriculture Committee and USDA reps on a tour of its warehouse and educational farm. As they draft this year’s farm bill, the officials came to explore the Local Food Hub as a model that successfully expands market opportunities for farmers.

Jim Barham, Agricultural Economist with the USDA Agricultural Marketing Service said, “I have been closely studying regional food hubs for several years now and what the Local Food Hub has been able to accomplish in such a short period of time is quite remarkable. It is a testament to the great efforts of the Local Food Hub, the strong commitment and dedication of the farmers they work with, and the growing demand from consumers for locally grown food.”

Emily Manley, the Local Food Hub’s director of development and outreach, is thrilled with the national recognition. “Local Food Hub’s model provides economic opportunity for small farms by enabling them to access large, institutional markets. But we don’t work in a vacuum—we are integrated and collaborative, combining infrastructure with a suite of educational opportunities, farm services, and community outreach programs,” she said. “The idea that we may also have the opportunity to positively impact local food systems across the country is very, very exciting.”

For a list of where to find food distributed by the Local Food Hub, visit localfoodhub.org/our-food/where-to-find-our-food/.

Out standing in their field: Brian Walden, with his wife Mihr and son Sylas, inspects his barley. Ten acres of his 500-acre cattle farm are devoted to the grain, which first sprouted last fall. (Photo by John Robinson)

Local waves of grain
There are only a handful of local grain growers in the area and when I met with Brian Walden, owner of Steadfast Farm in Red Hill, I learned why. “We don’t have the flat expanses of land they have out west, and Virginia’s hot and humid climate is treacherous for growing grains,” said Walden, who uses a hard red winter wheat developed especially for the East Coast to withstand humidity and resist disease.

So why, with a 500-acre cattle farm, a half-built house, and an almost 3-year-old son among his list of responsibilities, did he add growing grains and legumes to the list last year? “I noticed that there’s no one supplying the largest and most important part of the food pyramid, and what is provided is lacking nutritionally,” he said.

There’s a huge demand among bakers and brewers for local grains, but Steadfast Farm is taking it slowly, selling its harvest from 10 acres of wheat directly to shoppers at the City Market or through CSAs (and to Dr. Ho’s Humble Pie, where it’s used in whole wheat pizza crusts).

In addition to the wheat, Steadfast Farm grows sunflowers, a variety of seasonal vegetables, 10 acres of small white and black beans, 10 acres of malting barley, and a few acres of oats that the cattle graze, but these other grains are really a work in progress. “Trying to juggle each crop and its individual problems is time-consuming,” he said. And for growers like Walden, who regerminate their seeds every year, the process is especially painstaking because you can’t harvest early and the crop must remain physically secure and disease-free in order to produce again. Walden has always outsourced his seed-cleaning, but with a view towards total self-sufficiency, is building his own seed-cleaning facility on site.

As if Walden needs more on his to-do list, Steadfast Farm is part way through the involved process of organic certification and has added an operation raising rainbow trout in an artesian spring. Grass-fed beef, of course, is still its primary business. Farming is a labor of love that Walden wants to pass along to his son: “I believe we have a responsibility to cultivate our land just as homeowners do their lawns.”

Look for Steadfast Farm goods on local restaurant menus and at the Charlottesville City Market. Or, participate in one of its three CSAs that feeds four herbivores a month ($120 for three months), five omnivores a month ($180 for three months), or two gluten free-ers a month ($105 for three months). Pickup’s at the City Market on the first Saturday of the month.

This little piggy went to market
We all need fruits and vegetables (six to eight of them a day if we’re counting), and traditional CSAs make it easy to fill our tables with local ones, but that doesn’t mean locavores can’t be carnivorous too. The Rock Barn, Ben Thompson’s Nelson County-based business, which splits its week between custom pork butchery and upscale catering, is challenging the shrink-wrapped conventions of our meat industry and offering a protein-based CSA meant to supplement produce-based CSAs. The Porkshare program launched last fall, and gives buyers access to a constantly changing assortment of pork, sausages, and smoked meats from pigs raised, butchered, and packaged locally.

Each $80 share weighs between eight and 10 pounds (one pig feeds eight porkshare customers) and includes seven different cuts of meat centered around a culinary theme with an aim to showcase the entire animal “from snout to tail.”

Yes, this means that in your Virginia High Eatin’ share, you’ll get some smoked jowl along with your spare ribs, and in your Louisiana-Bayou Cajun share, you’ll get some belly along with your Andouille. The Rock Barn’s goal in including these less common cuts is twofold: First, it reflects our total utilization of the pig (remember, there’s still only two pounds of pork tenderloin on a 200-pound animal); and second, it pushes home cooks to think a little harder about what’s for dinner, encouraging them to experiment. Totally stumped on what to do with your ham hocks this month? The Rock Barn includes a featured recipe with your share and gives you e-mail access to its chefs for cooking advice.

Available without a contract, on a month-to-month, first-come, first-served basis, Porkshare’s flat-rate fee means a consistent market in which farmers only slaughter what’s been sold, rather than needing to sell what’s been slaughtered. Thompson feels this stability helps farmers focus on heritage breeding programs and open-pasture feeding, contributing to the overall health and happiness of the animals. Happy pigs mean even happier bacon and that’s enough to make anyone smile.

The Porkshare hosts once-a-month pick-up sites at the Charlottesville City Market, the Nelson County Farmers’ Market, and in Crozet, Waynesboro, and Richmond. Visit therockbarn.net for more information.

Categories
News

Love’s family joins in seeking Huguely trial evidence ahead of sentencing

The field of intervenors who want to see the evidence used to convict then-UVA senior George Huguely of murdering fellow student Yeardley Love two years ago got a little more crowded last week.

Attorney Mahlon Funk appeared before Judge Edward Hogshire in Charlottesville Circuit Court Thursday on behalf of Love’s mother, Sharon Love, to argue for the court’s release of trial documents, saying they were necessary for the family’s pending wrongful death suit against as-yet unnamed plaintiffs. His was the second hearing on the release of the evidence that afternoon, coming on the heels of another round of arguments for and against making the court documents available to six media companies who filed for access before the trial ended and have been fighting for it since.

“We now don’t have the luxury of time,” said Funk as a shackled Huguely, who awaits an August 30 sentencing date, looked on. “There’s a pesky little thing called the statute of limitations,” which gives the family until May 3 to file their civil suit.

“Unlike the media, my client presents no danger whatsoever of sensationalizing (the evidence) in any way,” said Funk. “They intend to honor the memory of Yeardley.”
Their intent doesn’t really matter, said the other attorneys.

Huguely lawyer Francis McQ. Lawrence said the media and the family have the same standing when it comes to court-ordered access to the evidence, and he reiterated the defense’s argument: Making the evidence available now would infringe on Huguely’s Sixth Amendment right to a fair trial if his request for a new one—as yet unrequested by his lawyers—is successful.

Robert Yates, the local attorney representing the media companies, agreed that Love’s family has no greater right as litigants than the public does.

“The public’s right, even though nobody up there wants to admit it, is pretty strong,” he said.

Hogshire didn’t rule in favor or against the release of documents and exhibits to Love’s attorney, but according to Funk, Commonwealth’s Attorney Dave Chapman can—and will—share the evidence in order to allow the civil case to go forward.

Whether the media will get to see what jurors saw remains up in the air.

Yates offered up two options for granting access to the trial evidence, which he has argued was presented to jurors in such a way that the media and the public couldn’t see it, creating a de facto closed trial.

One plan was to load everything, including photographs, text message transcripts, and the video of Huguely’s interrogation by police, onto a read-only computer terminal in the court clerk’s office and allow the media and the public to access it at will—not for reproduction, but just for viewing.

Acknowledging that such an approach would require the clerk to spend an enormous amount of time chaperoning viewers, Yates offered another suggestion: Put the transcripts and other non-sensitive evidence—no autopsy photos—on a CD and distribute burned copies.

But Huguely’s lawyers said that given the high-profile nature of the trial, there would be no way to keep even the sensitive material from making its way to publication. That, they said, would deny their client the right to an unbiased jury pool if he ended up back in court.

“If we make a mistake with the handling of this evidence, we can’t take it back,” said defense attorney Rhonda Quagliana.

Yates argued that the proverbial cat was already out of the bag.

“The trial already happened,” he said. “Everybody knows a jury found him guilty,” and the evidence is now part of the public record. The law is clear, he said. In order to block access, “you have to articulate a reason, and not a hypothetical reason. The threat of a new trial is a hypothetical reason.”

Hogshire said he was sensitive to the rights of the public to see the trial evidence, but needed more time before he issued a ruling.

“I don’t have a lot of guidance here, and I want to give it some really careful thought,” he said.

Yates maintains precedent is on his clients’ side. He’s been proceeded with patience and accommodated the court, he said, because that’s what you do here.
“I should be up on my First Amendment soapbox saying we should have access to everything,” he said. “But this is Charlottesville.”—Graelyn Brashear

 

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Blunt truth: marijuana dealers are people you already know

He isn’t nervous yet, because there isn’t any reason to be.

Is there?

Nothing in the car. Nothing in his pockets. Expired tags. Just popped into the office to grab something, his wallet with his ID left at home.

A cop asks him to step out of the car, please, sir.

Another officer says he smells pot and asks if they can search his person. Yes you can, officer, because he knows he’s got nothing on him. Can we search the car? The car is a mess, boxes of stuff from the move, clothes all over the place, it’ll take forever for them to go through it. No, you can’t search the car. It’s Saturday. He works full-time. Wants to get home and enjoy his weekend. The cops take their sweet time filling out the ticket and as he’s signing it, a K-9 unit pulls up. The dog sniffs around outside the car and then sniffs around inside. When it gets to the back, it starts to paw at the seats, scrabble, scrabble, skritch, skritch, and so now too bad, sucker, we’re gonna search the trunk. And they find a backpack and look inside.

Shit.

A half-pound of weed and a half-ounce of mushrooms, the irony being the shit in that bag was well over 18 months old, so moldy it was useless, couldn’t smoke it or sell it, and he’d been meaning to throw it out. But he’d forgotten. So now he’s handcuffed and seated on the curb and they go through everything in the car while a tow truck is called an

d it starts to get dark.

He’s taken to the drug task force office, Mirandized and interrogated.

 

Name and address?

My name is ___________, and I live at ___________.

Got any priors?

 

A misdemeanor possession charge in Richmond. Not gonna say anything else without a lawyer present.

And, like, eight cop cars drive over to his apartment. Please don’t knock the door down, BAM! Too late. Guns drawn, bulletproof vests secured, 12 cops spread through the rooms, CLEAR, CLEAR….

And lo…a big ol’ bag of weed, digital scales, another bag of weed, and another, and another. We got ’im! And about $1,700 cash, and he is processed, photographed a

nd locked up in jail with the late night drunks for two days.
He is 26 years old and has been selling weed for over 10 years.

“Mr. Dealer” grew up in Charlottesville, bought and sold and smoked weed in Charlottesville, and got busted in Charlottesville. He is a soldier in the War

on Drugs, specifically the war on marijuana, which the U.S. has been officially fighting for over seven decades.

Around 69 million Americans 12 and older have tried marijuana at least once. Last year, 356,472 kilos were seized nationwide, nearly 174 

 

of them in Virginia, with almost nine kilograms of processed marijuana and 486 plants taken by Jefferson Area Drug Enforcement Task Force (JADE) in our area. So far this year, JADE has confiscated just under 3 kilos. In 2007, 34 percent of Albemarle High School students admitted to having smoked pot, according to the Albemarle County Youth Risk Behavior Survey.

Seems like a lot of us are buying weed. So I ask you, how well do you know your dealer? How well do you know what he goes through? (How much do you really want to know?)

 

Buying harder drugs is furtive and illicit and feels a little dirty. Coke dealers often don’t do coke and despise the very people they serve. Some dealers dabble in everything. What do you want? Coke? Pot? X? Pills? Those dealers tend to have very short careers. They rent a hotel room every weekend to serve the parade of unknown users. Those dealers see you only as a source of cash.

But pot dealers are somewhat different. They sell to their friends and smoke with their clients. There’s a ritual to it.

Sometimes buying drugs isn’t that different from buying coffee. You bring a little gossip to the counter because you want the barista to think of you as more than just “Double Americano with room for cream.” And you want your dealer to know that you’re not just some stoner.

So you chat a little bit.

You hang out before exchanging money. Make awkward small talk.

Pot deals have a weird vibe of familiarity between rank strangers. If you’re a frequent smoker, you see your dealer with some regularity, know his name, maybe where he lives, maybe even a little bit about his nondealing life. But you’ve probably never visited when you didn’t want something.

When it comes to drugs, how well does anybody know anybody?

Mr. Dealer, (friends call him “D”), started smoking weed when he was 13. He was in eighth grade, at a county middle school, driven by life situations he needed to escape. Growing up with divorce, growing up poor. Driven by a general teenage sense of rebellion. In the ’80s, when I was going through the local schools, it was rare to find kids smoking weed, but by the ’9

0s there were definitely stoners amongst the “Saved by the Bell” set. You usually got your weed from somebody’s older brother, maybe the wealthier kids living out in Forest Lakes or Farmington. The STAB kids always had a lot of weed. So did the hippie-spawn who pinched it from their parents’ stash.

“I had a friend whose parents smoked,” Mr. Dealer says, “and he figured out where their stash was and when his parents would leave we’d run up to their closet.” It was mostly weekend smoking, and strictly scrounging—“no one was peddling at school or like, you know, selling dimes in class or anything like that.”

Just the same, someone wrote a letter to the assistant principal naming names, and Young D was called with 10 or 12 others into the office and grilled. It was then that his mom began to be suspicious, but he said, ”No, no, I only tried it once. It hurt my throat…”

It’s a’right, ma, I didn’t inhale.

He did inhale, of course. So did Mom. Rifling around in her glove compartment one day, he found an envelope down in the bottom all rolled up. “I wonder what this is?” he thought, and opened it. A week later his mom and her boyfriend have every door in the car open, and the contents spread out on the ground and they’re searching through it like mad.

When she finds a bag of pot in his closet, she picks him up from school and sits him down for a serious talk.

“Think carefully before answering me, young man. Where did this come from?”

“Your car.”

She grounds him for two weeks.

By ninth or 10th grade, Mr. Dealer and the childhood friend with whom he’d begun smoking were running out of sources of free pot and beginning to buy it. “Initially we’d just buy $10 worth, just enough to roll up and smoke that afternoon. But you know a month or two after that it was kind of like, ‘Well I don’t have $10 to spend on this shit.’” Both lived with single mothers and weren’t exactly rich: “We were the kids at the bottom of the barrel in terms of, you know, the brand-name clothes.” Somewhere along the way the realization came that if they were to buy a little bit more, they could sell some and pretty much smoke for free. “So we throw together, you know, $25, buy a quarter of schwag and break it up into as many dimes as we could muster out of it and sell that to make the money back. And then whatever we had left over we’d share, smoke for the afternoon.”

At Albemarle High School, plenty of kids were getting high. “Looking back, the only kids that didn’t smoke were, like, the kids that only did schoolwork and were in the AP classes and were, you know, like, really into consciously trying to advance themselves for college.” Not that D wasn’t doing well. He was an honor roll student throughout high school, but by 10th grade he was also smoking every day, before school, after school and on weekends. So many people he knew smoked, and needed weed, that, well, how could he not sell it? “It went from buying a quarter and selling a couple dimes to, like, throwing in on an ounce.”

Things began to escalate.

D needed more than he could get from his old friend. He was looking for two or three ounces now. He met a new friend whose cousins lived in town and could get them what they needed. “We kind of formed a little partnership,” D says, “and that just opened the floodgates.”

Yeah, so now Mr. Dealer is the man at AHS. His new friend had gone to another middle school, so when the stream of kids got dumped into Albemarle, well, between the two of them they had a lot of acquaintances eager to become customers. Not that they were the only dealers around. Wealthier kids had access to better weed, buying and selling kind bud to those who could afford it. D and his buddy were selling schwag and they sold it mostly to middle- or lower-class kids who just didn’t know where else to go.

Once or twice a week they’d drive to Orangedale, where the friend’s cousins lived in the projects, and they’d buy weed, starting with a quarter pound, two ounces each—cheap enough to make good money on.

Things began to heat up. They started buying half-pounds.

“Hey,” the cousin said, “next time you can just take a pound. Buy the half up front and I’ll front you a half with it and you can work that.”

At 13, his mom told him he had to pay for things on his own—even, like, dental bills. Selling weed began as a way to pay for what he smoked, but it easily and quickly became a way to make a little money as well. He wasn’t rolling in dough. The cousins down in Orangedale, selling in much larger quantities, made better money. D was buying a pound of not-so-great weed for $1,100 to $1,200, and selling it for $100 an ounce. That doesn’t pay for diamond pendants or tricked-out rides, “but I mean when you’re 16 and you’re making $6.50 an hour at the mall, it’s a considerable help.”

It’s always tempting, however, to spend it if you’ve got it. Mr. Dealer bought a big down-filled winter jacket for, what, 200 some bucks, and his mother found the receipt in his room and began to wonder.

“How’d you get the money for that?”

“Well, you see, that receipt was from me and my friend buying stuff together, and they put it all on one receipt. He bought the coat.”

“Uh huh. We’ll see about that. ‘Hello, my son has this receipt for a $200 coat, and I was wondering…’”

“Yes ma’am, I remember him….”

“So, where are you getting this kind of money?”

“ …”

And it’s Suspicion City from then on out. Checking up, poking around, not fully trusting you. Kids aren’t exactly criminal masterminds, and it’s inevitable that Mom finds another bag of pot. She makes him flush it down the toilet. She gets really watchful.

She finds digital scales and a whole lot of empty plastic bags. She takes him to the Juvenile Court to try and head off disaster, get him drug tested regularly, scare him straight. But then she finds a quarter pound of pot and so she calls the cops on her son and has him arrested.

He’s 16, bigger and stronger than the child she used to know. Her son, this drug dealer. The cops ask him if he’s angry with his mom, if he resents her invasion of his privacy.

Yeah, he does. He’s pissed that she entered his room and rooted through his stuff and then turned him in.

But he’s not going to hurt her, if that’s what you’re thinking!

Jesus. She’s his mother.

Before the court date, he’s sent to Region Ten for an after-school drug treatment program. The threat of random testing looming, he manages to stay clean for a while. But spring break rolls around and his buddy lights a joint.

“Now, you know you don’t have to smoke this.”

“…”

“But if you want to you’re more than welcome.”

“…”

“…”

“Fuck it. I don’t have to go in for a week!”

He fills a Poland Springs water bottle with his fresh, clean piss. He’s stoned for the rest of break.

And the piss trick works for a while. You take a pocket hand warmer, and during the 10-minute break at the meeting you rip it open and shake it and rubber band it to the little squeeze bottle of piss. They call you for the test, and you go into the bathroom with this guy who stands right behind you while you unzip your pants, reach in, pull out the little squeeze bottle and aim the warm stream into the cup. And then you tuck it back inside and hand over the cup like you got nothin’ to worry about.

Mr. Dealer washes his hands. The guy is just staring at him in the mirror, and he’s still staring when D turns around, just standing there still holding the cup.

“I think I’m going to need another urine stream from you.”

“What are you talking about? You know I just peed in the cup. Obviously I don’t have to go to the bathroom again. I’ve to be at work in 30 minutes.”

“If you leave right now I’m going to mark you down as dirty.”

“How are you going to do that? I just peed in a cup for you.”

“If your urine was this warm you’d be dead.”

“Oh, fuck.”

A few weeks later he does coke for the first time and tests positive for that, too.

Defense: He has voluntarily entered drug treatment, your Honor. He is a promising young man. Yadda, yadda, yadda.
Prosecution: He tested positive for marijuana. He tested positive for cocaine. QED and Boo-ya.

Things are not looking good. The judge, unhappy with the lack of seriousness with which Mr. Dealer is taking this whole thing, sends him to juvey in Staunton. He has just turned 17.

”You go in, you’ve got to strip in front of this guy, you know, hold your balls and cough and make sure that you’re not trying to smuggle anything in or whatever. I was there for two or three nights and at some point during that time I think my mother just felt so bad about the situation…I don’t think that she thought it was going to go that far.”

Yes, well. Things escalate.

The War on Drugs was taking hold at Albemarle High School. Gates popped up to keep students from leaving during school hours and cops with dogs came in to sniff around the parking lot. By the time Mr. Dealer got to 11th grade, students were regularly doing coke on weekends, and the school seemed to have a good-sized population of drug users. D made no real effort to hide the fact that he had become a drug dealer, despite the beefed-up security. He wore a pager openly and did crazy shit like packing dime bags in the middle of class, hidden in the Kangaroo pocket on the front of his jacket.

The Teacher is at the blackboard.

“Yo.”

“… the quadratic equation. Let’s try it with this…”

“Yo! B____!”

B____ turns around and the small bag of pot hits him smack in the forehead.

Gasps and giggles ripple through the students.

“…and so what is the value of X in….”

Another bag goes whipping at B____’s head. He ducks this one and scrambles to pick it up, looking to retaliate.

The Teacher turns around, sensing a disturbance in the force.

“What is going on here? B_____, do you have something you’d like to share with the class?”

Or maybe something the class would like to share with him…

Before Mr. Dealer graduated, he was buying his weed from another kid over in Mallside, the neighborhood across Rio Road from Fashion Square. So there’s D, a white kid dressed like a dealer—baggy clothes, pager—walking through the house with his black friend, and he’s introduced to his friend’s mom and she rolls her eyes as they walk through the living room. She knows exactly what’s going on.

D heads off to college in Richmond. “O.K.,” he thinks, “I’m going to get rid of the last of what I have and then I’m going to be a college student. I’m going to go to school, going to learn and get my degree. And then I’m not going to have a reason to have to do this anymore.”

Richmond seems flooded with weed. It doesn’t take long for D to find someone in his dorm, this hippy kid, who’s selling better shit than D ever did, shit that D’s old customers can’t get back in Charlottesville, and it doesn’t take long before Mr. Dealer is back in the game, selling the better weed to people making the hour drive down I-64, and about two pounds or so a week starts moving through Charlottesville because of D and the Phish phan.

Eighty percent of the marijuana that Mr. Dealer sold came from New York City. There might be, every once in a while, a shipment brought cross-country from California or Oregon, five or even 10 pounds maybe, but the risk involved was too great. Better to stick with the long-established and steady connection between the Northeast and the South, deeply rutted like ancient wagon trails, the path of all East Coast vice: New York, Philly, D.C., Richmond, Florida.

The hippy kid would drive his ghetto mobile with tinted windows and big rims, happy, hippy music blaring, up to New York and bring back 25 to 30 pounds of pot, sometimes as much as 60.

It took two to three weeks to move it all, and not wanting to keep that much weight at his house, he started paying D to store it for him.

Mr. Dealer begins to see this as a serious business.

“I really kind of remember being surprised that he would be willing to pay me that much just to keep shit at my house. …For every pound that he was going to leave there he would pay me 50 bucks for the first night…and then $25 per pound for however long it needed to stay there after that.” Twenty-five pounds times 50 bucks. That’s $1,250 for a night’s work, maybe $2,500, depending. “And, you know, it adds up.”

At college, much more so than when he was in high school, it felt to D that he was living two lives, or at least concealing a large part of his one life. He was a student, going to classes and doing his work. And like a lot of students, he smoked pot. But he was also a professional drug dealer and his dealing was a much larger part of his life than his education.

Graduation. D moves back to Charlottesville. Finds a full-time, legit job and an apartment.

(He’s still got the job. That’s why you can know his story, but you can’t know his name. At work they know his name, but they can’t know his story.)

In fundamental ways he was different than his peers. The character traits a drug dealer needs to thrive were deeply ingrained in him, a unique set of survival skills.

Secrecy, an underlying paranoia, mistrust.

“It was becoming more and more clear to me,” D says, “that a lot of who I had become was going to be detrimental to pursuing anything in the real world.”

It was a strange transition for a 25-year-old, one that few, if any, of his co-workers could have understood. “I wonder,” he thought, sitting in his cubicle, “if it’s obvious that up to this point, I’ve only sold drugs to support myself.”

He was still dealing, but was trying to operate at a lower level. More people knew him, however, than he would have wanted. Walking down the street, friends of his friend’s younger brothers would come up to him and say, “Hey, I remember when so-and-so’s brother was driving to Richmond to see you…” Or people he barely knew would see him in the restaurant where they worked and say, “Hey, do you think you can help me out?”

And if he said:

“Yeah, I can help you out.”

Then the next time they would say:

“I’ve been buying extra for a friend. Maybe it would be better if he just met you….”

But he really didn’t want to meet your friend, didn’t want more customers or more risk than he already had. He wanted things to no longer escalate.

“I don’t want anything to do with you,” he said when the scene got too sketchy.

“I don’t want you to know who I am. I don’t want you to know my name. I don’t want to talk to you. I don’t want you to talk to anyone I know.”

This was not an attitude common around the office.

Risk is a funny thing. It can be calculated only so far. By it’s very nature, it’s uncertain, unknowable in its entirety. When he moved back to Charlottesville, he brought with him a large amount of weed that hadn’t been cured properly, and was unsellable. It was too much to just toss in the trash, so he decided to deal with it later. He threw it in a backpack, and that backpack sat, forgotten, on a shelf at a friend’s house where he crashed for a while, and then got stuffed, with a bunch of clothes, etc., in the trunk of his car.

It’s Saturday.

He wakes up in the afternoon, throws on some shorts and a shirt (forgets to grab his wallet) and runs over to the office to finish up a few things. On the way home, he’s pulled over for expired tags, and the lack of a license and the way he’s dressed, makes the officer ask him to step out of the vehicle, please sir. The car’s a mess, filled with shit from the move. He isn’t nervous yet, because there isn’t any reason to be.

Is there?

Marijuana Possession with Intent to Distribute. Psilocybin Possession with Intent to Distribute. Both felonies in the State of Virginia.

Mr. Dealer, D, had been smoking weed every day, multiple times a day, since he was 16.

He got a lawyer.

Fighting the charges would have cost, like, over two grand. And he still might have lost.

A deal was offered. Plead guilty, and the marijuana charges are gone. The Intent to Distribute on the ‘shrooms is gone. He takes a simple possession charge on the ‘shrooms. Four years suspended sentence, 18 months probation, five years good behavior, and a felony on his record.

He took the deal.

“I was never into sports. I wasn’t one of the jocks. I didn’t have that kind of close-knit group of like teammates. I kind of hated all those kids for that because they were all a bunch of pompous asses anyway, or so I felt like at that time. You know, [dealing] kind of gave me a one up on everybody else… it allowed me to kind of pick and choose who I wanted to be accessible to. …I think during that time in my life, there was a lot of things going on in my personal life, in my family life, that I didn’t have any control over and [dealing] gave me this definite sense of something that was all mine, that I was in complete control of.”

After that real bad Saturday night, Mr. Dealer came home one day to find a girl he knew standing at the top of his stairs, staring curiously at the recently busted-down door.

“Oh, hey,” she said, “did someone break into your apartment?”

“Yeeaaah, um….”

“I’ve been trying to call you, but your phone’s been off.”

“JADE broke into my apartment and they took my phone.”

Her face got that deer-in-the-headlights look.

“Oh. O.K., well, I was just stopping by,” she said, and bolted down the stairs and out the front door.

“This was someone who used to come by and sit around for, like, 45 minutes to an hour just to buy an eighth,” D says, “and we’d shoot the shit about work and life. Just talk about what had been going on in our lives a few weeks earlier when we last saw each other, whatever. There was no, like, ‘Oh, god! I’m so sorry, are you O.K.?’ It was like, ‘Oh. Cool.’ Voooom! All those kind of clichés like, ‘You’ll see who your friends are.’ It’s all true.”

“There’s a certain relationship, a certain ceremonial aspect of smoking weed,” D says, “a level of bonding with someone…seeing eye to eye on art and music and kind of opening up that sort of lateral thought process that isn’t really as awake when you’re not high.”

The light, dim now that it’s evening, insinuates itself through the venetian blinds as we sit in Mr. Dealer’s apartment. His girlfriend, young and pretty, hovers protectively behind us. I feel like she doesn’t really approve of all this interviewing.

Does he still get high?

“Am I going to smoke while I’m on probation? Hell no! It’s not worth four years of my life.”

Will he ever sell pot again?

“I’d like to say no, but once I’m in the clear, and I don’t have this sort of storm cloud looming over my head all the time, I may feel differently about it. If I were to go back to that, it definitely would not be anywhere near what it was before.”

He laughs.

“The, sort of, cardinal rules of the game that I’ve found myself lectured on so many times recently—don’t keep it at your house, don’t travel with it, don’t give them a reason to pull you over—obviously would be adhered to more strictly.”

“I’d been doing this shit a long time, and I got really comfortable. Free use, always having money in my pocket, never having to question dropping $30 to $50 dollars on clothes or food. It creates a very, sort of, ingrained thought process.”

(And as he talks, it comes to me that interviewing D about selling drugs feels eerily similar to buying them. We are co-conspirators, sharing his secrets. He has shared a lot of his life with me, but the real question is, once I get his story published, will I ever visit his apartment again?

How well do I know Mr. Dealer?)

“Ever since this happened, its been like, ‘What do you mean I can’t buy a $3 latte on the way to work every morning?’”

He stubs out a cigarette.

“You stock up on the beans, you wake up, you grind some, you make a pot, and take it in a thermos to work, just like everybody else.”