Tag: Food & Drink

Like many of us normal folk, Thomas Jefferson enjoyed beer with his dinner. Like others of us, Jefferson enjoyed beer enough to learn how to make it himself at home. He was also wise enough to initially learn the art he performed during his brewdays from his literal alewife, Martha Jefferson. His success with brewing was followed by a headfirst plunge into texts on the science of malting, brewing, and fermentation.

It’s hard not to be inspired by the undertakings of homebrewer Jefferson, and his custom-designed brewhouse and cellar at Monticello. A man possessed, Jefferson became the kind of homebrewer few modern brewers could rival by kilning his own malt, a process so precise and laborious that few—if any—commercial brewers do it today. For the unfamiliar, the kilning of malted barley is the largest contributor to final beer color and also contributes significantly to flavor. The process also requires a significant amount of space, which while not exactly a problem at Monticello, speaks nonetheless to the degree to which Jefferson revered his beer.

Jefferson is often referred to as “the first foodie,” and that title can be extended to the local ingredient renaissance as well. Jefferson brewed his beers with malt and hops sourced locally, which no doubt resulted in a distinctly regional beer not unlike those found in Europe. In defense of today’s homebrewer, it was more likely less expensive to source locally back then, which is not the case in the marketplace today. Economies of scale require large volumes of malt and hop production in order to create an affordable wholesale price. This writer and brewer very much looks forward to the day that Virginia malt and hop production meets demand for local brewers, so that we may make Jefferson proud.

Another means in which Jefferson was a brewing pioneer is in the use of adjuncts (see Beerspeak 101), such as corn. Corn and rice are used on a large commercial brewing scale in order to save on cost and produce a higher alcohol percentage. Although these “adjunct beers” are widely regarded today as being of lesser quality, they may in fact be the beverages that first appeared in the now-famous silver Jefferson cups. As someone who has received several as gifts at milestones, I am particularly inspired to learn that these may have first been filled with beer.

Jefferson would also likely be proud of our current President, with whom, politics aside, he shares the joy of homebrewing. President Obama has been celebrated for making and also sharing the recipe for a White House Honey Ale and a White House Honey Porter, both made with honey produced from the first ever beehive on the South Lawn. Given his predilection for local ingredients, brewing, and beer, it’s an easy assumption that Jefferson would be all about this inaugural White House homebrew, and one can only hope that it provides equipment and information sufficient to continue production through presidential terms to come.

It is a genuine pleasure to be a part of an increasingly vibrant beer scene within the viewshed of Monticello, where brewers continue Jefferson’s tradition of brewing with traditional and non-traditional ingredients in the interest of providing the best beer possible for the area. This writer has a hard time envisioning another area where you simply have to look up for inspiration when it comes to brewing quality products for a passionate populace. As it does for so many aspects of daily life, the legacy and history of Jefferson continues to inspire brewers and beer consumers alike: respecting and reflecting history while constantly looking ahead to the next approach.

BEERSPEAK 101
Adjuncts (n.): Unmalted grains (such as corn, rice, rye, oats, barley, and wheat) used in brewing beer. They supplement the main mash ingredients (such as malted barley), often with the intention of cutting costs, but sometimes to create an additional feature, such as better foam retention.

I find few things more exciting than being invited to someone’s home for a dinner party. Not a potluck or cocktail party, but a sit-down soirée with mixed company and food cooked and served by someone other than me. It’s a generous act of yore that seems now to be endangered if not entirely extinct. Surely we remember our parents entertaining at home, falling asleep to the sound of muffled laughter downstairs. And the first thing you do as a child when you make a new friend is invite her over, so what’s changed?

The popularity of restaurant dining’s certainly at play, yet breaking bread with people in a home setting deepens connections much faster. There’s no time wasted looking at a menu, ordering, or deciding on wines. You can linger without the staff sighing loudly behind you and there’s no awkward moment when the check arrives.

Of course, time, that elusive luxury of which we all get the same amount, is the ubiquitous excuse. But if we have time to cook for ourselves, take a photo of what we’ve made, and then broadcast it to all of our “friends,” then we have time to invite a few of them to eat with us. Spending less time on our virtual social life frees up more time for socializing in the flesh; besides, no one’s expecting the eight-course, aspic-laden affair with chargers and napkin rings that Emily Post outlines in her 1922 etiquette guide. Entertain with simple, weekday meals even—meatloaf, mac-n-cheese, build-your-own-tacos—just remain fully clothed when you get home from work and eat at the table instead of from the fissure between the couch cushions. You can laugh out loud instead of LOLing and bring up topics without assigning any hashtags.

Even with loftier aspirations, don’t burden yourself by cleaning the house from top to bottom. Chances are that if you are a hoarder, or have 18 cats, the people you invite will already know that and either forgive it, or decline the offer. If you’re just a person with unremarkable dust bunnies and a pile of dead ladybugs in the corner, then guests won’t notice. Tidy the bathroom and any linens they’ll use, light some candles, dim the lights, keep their glasses topped up, and your cleanliness will appear next to godliness.

It’s a drag slaving away in the kitchen while your guests make merry at the table, so come up with a menu that you can cook ahead. Baked dishes like lasagne or braises like pot roast can be warming in the oven (with their aromas at critical mass) when guests arrive so that all you need to do is toss a salad. And, if you think of the meal as four courses (appetizer, salad, main, and dessert), plan to make two courses, buy one course, and then take one person or couple up on their offer to bring something.

You always want to have drinks and nibbles available right away, so buy the appetizer components. Put down a cheese board with fresh or dried fruit, wrap prosciutto around grissini, or set out bowls of pistachios and olives tarted up with orange rind and fennel seeds. Tasking guests with bringing dessert (or even just gelato to top some box-made brownies) makes for a welcome mission and alleviates them from bringing wine.

Consider the number of guests you invite. Six can converse as a group without any factions splitting off, and if you want to introduce two singles, the other pair will provide a buffer if sparks don’t fly. The dinner table’s a great leveler, so go ahead and invite two big fish and watch them both act a little less big for their britches. Stay away from vitriolic topics, though don’t be afraid to delve. Ask your guests what they would have eaten first in Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory, or what part of themselves is physically perfect.

Invitees have a few rules to follow too. If you need to cancel, do so with no fewer than two hours notice (and not via text message). Don’t bring uninvited guests and don’t turn up sloshed. If you have a genuine allergy, let it be known to your host ahead of time; however, if you are just obnoxiously picky or health-conscious, eat everything you’re given, or else don’t accept the invitation. Send a follow-up thank you note—written is best, but electronic suffices. Most of all though, always always return the favor. It’s the only way to keep the dinner party alive.

Wine dinner is served
Join Jeff Meyers, vice president and general manager of Terra d’Oro winery in Amador County, California, for a wine dinner at the Ivy Inn on Tuesday, December 11. Chef Angelo Vangelopoulos will serve up five courses paired with (mostly) Italian varietal wines. Selections include Barbera, Sangiovese, and the School House Zinfandel, which will accompany a parsnip ravioli with leeks, sunchokes, and braised beef short ribs. The evening begins with canapés at 6:30pm and the price is $75 per person, all-inclusive of tax and gratuity. Reservations can be made by phone at 977-1222.

’Tis the season
The Bridge Progressive Arts Initiative (at 209 Monticello Rd.) is hosting its annual Great Gifts Holiday Shop showcasing local handmade goods and vintage gifts. The gallery turned pop-up gift store is open weekdays from noon-8pm and weekends noon-6pm until Christmas Eve. Don’t miss refreshments from Bread and Salt and Hamdingers while supporting local artists and retailers. Join the festivities on Wednesday, December 21 from 5-10pm for live music, food by The Farm Cville, and 15 percent off everything.

Second time’s a charm
Caffe Bocce, the upscale Italian restaurant in Scottsville, had quite the local following and plenty of loyal fans before it closed its doors in 2005. Chef and owner Christopher Long moved back to Virginia after almost a decade of running a restaurant in New York. The new space has relocated to Downtown Charlottesville in the Old Michie Building at 609 E. Market St., where diners can enjoy Long’s nouveau Italian/modern American cuisine.

On Fridays, The Charlottesville 29 features five finds selected by local chefs and personalities.  Today, on the fifth anniversary of the first beer sale at Beer Run, the picks are from Beer Run co-owner Josh Hunt.  To celebrate the day, Beer Run will be tapping rare kegs of beer and offering food and drink specials throughout the day.  Hunt’s five picks:

1)  Cheeseburger “All the Way” and a Coke in the Bottle at Riverside Lunch off High St.  “As someone who grew up on the east side of Charlottesville, the Riverside has been an institution since long before I started going in the 80′s with my brothers and step-dad, to the old location on Long St., where the CVS is now.  I’ve been all over this country and I haven’t found a better or more classic cheeseburger.  Plus, the service is probably the fastest in town.”

2)  Boquerones Con Ajo at Mas.  (Plump white Cantabrian anchovy filets in an olive oil, garlic, lemon marinade).  “Man, these anchovies are a thing of beauty — briny, fresh and plump, resting perfectly in olive oil.  I think Tomas has some in-depth secret process that makes these so amazing.  Excellent with a crisp white wine or a glass of Duvel Belgian golden ale.”

3)  Baltimore-style Pit Beef Sandwich With Creamy Horseradish Sauce and a Cheerwine at Ace Biscuit & Barebecue.  “When I go to Ace, I  just let Brian & Gabby in the kitchen tell me what to order.  I’ve yet to leave disappointed . . . or hungry.”

4)  Lunch Buffet at Milan Indian Cuisine.  “My girlfriend Chelsea turned me on to Milan, and its fantastic buffet, with a selection of delicious curries, rice, veggies, meats, chutneys, salads, naan and sauces.  It also happens to be a great spot to meet my mom, who is a vegetarian and loves it.”

5)  Fried Lotus Root at Peter Chang’s China Grill.  “Holy Toledo, these things are like the best shoestring fries you’ve ever had, but better and flavored with spicy Sichuan peppers and spices.  The are only available in season and fantastic with beer (like most things).  Tip: Always order at least one item off of the hand-written page on the back of the menu.  There are great authentic and seasonal dishes on that page.”

The Charlottesville 29 is a publication that asks, and answers: if there were just 29 restaurants in Charlottesville, what would be the ideal 29? Follow along with regular updates on Facebook and Twitter.

When I told a wine-loving francophile that I’ve been drinking wine from a box, he looked at me with such horror that I quickly followed up with, “I pour it into a glass first, of course!” His disgust had nothing to do with the image of me holding my mouth below the spigot in my fridge, but rather with the notion of drinking what he presumes is swill. It’s a prejudice held by many, yet, surprisingly, it’s us new world Americans upholding the stigma more than the old-world Europeans.

Fair enough, if we were talking about the boxed junk of the 1970s. However, not only is the wine inside today’s boxes the same quality wine that goes inside a bottle (and often at half the price), it’s also likely to taste better longer since the collapsible plastic bladder within the box creates an airtight seal down to the very last dribble. Europeans already know this—nearly half of the wines sold in Norway and Sweden are bag-in-box wines, and even in wine-traditional France, they account for about 18 percent of wine sales. Stateside, bag-in-box wine has been the fastest growing segment of the market for a couple of years now, though it still occupies only about 10 percent of market share.

Michael Shaps, who splits his time making wine in Virginia and Burgundy, says that half an aisle of his French grocery store is devoted to boxed wines. “The French are price conscious as well as very green. If you drink wine at lunch and dinner, then the box goes a long way,” he said. In late 2010, he and partner Philip Stafford took the cue and put three of their already value-oriented Virginia Wineworks wines into a three-liter bag-in-box. Now, instead of paying $16 per bottle, customers can get the equivalent of four bottles for around $40—buy two-and-a-half and get one-and-a-half free. It’s exactly the same Virginia-made wine from Virginia-grown grapes that goes into the bottles, so how can it cost so much less?

It all comes down to the costs of goods sold, and Shaps broke it down for me. Each pre-made bag costs 50 cents—and a glass wine bottle costs 75 cents. Since the bags get filled with four bottles worth of wine, the per-bottle cost for the bag becomes 13 cents.

The recyclable boxes that house the bags cost 60 cents, or 15 cents per bottle. The labels, corks, and capsules (see Winespeak 101) that bottles require cost a minimum of 60 cents and a maximum of $1 per bottle. Even using the minimum cost, we’re at 28 cents per bottle for the bag-in-box and $1.35 for the glass bottle.

And there’s still labor to figure. One person can operate the bag-filling machine, sealing 2,000 liters (or about 2,667 bottles) in six hours. At a $20/hour rate, that’s about 5 cents per bottle. The bottling line, which requires four people (though only four hours) to seal the same amount, brings each bottle’s labor cost to 12 cents.

Add it all up and compare the bag-in-box’s 33 cents total to the glass bottle’s $1.47. That’s a $1.14 savings.

Consider too that 2,000 liters of bag-in-box wine can be stacked to occupy 160 square feet, whereas 2,000 liters of wine in bottles fill 56 cases, which go on to four pallets, occupying 384 square feet. Also, bags in boxes weigh less and are at little risk for damage (in fact, Shaps jumped on a filled bag to demonstrate their durability), thus shipping costs less.

None of this even speaks to the bag-in-box’s environmental friendliness—it’s estimated to use 91 percent less packaging than bottled wine and has only 21 percent greenhouse gas emissions.
It seems that in a state where our wine’s quality-to-price ratio is often up against scrutiny, more Virginia producers might be bagging their wines, yet Virginia Wineworks remains the lone soldier. The demand’s certainly there—both the Virginia Wineworks Chardonnay and Viognier bag-in-boxes sold out months ago. Shaps and Stafford tripled their bag-in-box production this year and are adding a line of $32 nonvarietal boxes for sale in the tasting room. The new Chardonnay and Viognier will be out before Christmas, and the blends by January.

Across the pond in Meursault, Shaps, who recently bought out his French partner, will start bagging some of his Maison Michael Shaps wine for sale in both France and Virginia. Maybe next he’ll start selling his Virginia boxes in France.

WINESPEAK 101
Capsule (n.): The wrapping that covers the bottle closure and most of the bottle’s neck. Once made of lead, they are now made from plastic, tin, aluminum, or composites.

This is more about reliability than quality. If you’re looking for something to eat at 1am, how exquisite can you expect the cuisine to be? First thing you need to know is that the place is open. And that alone really narrows the field. And we’re talking mid-week here. We can’t concern ourselves with Friday and Saturday amateur nights.

Downtown, The Box continues to expand its nocturnal promise. It switches over to the late-night menu at 10pm and serves until 1 or 1:30am. There’s a Vietnamese, bánh mi-style cold chicken sandwich: seasoned cold chicken, shredded daikon pickled carrots, cucumber slices, jalapenos, cilantro and spicy mayo, served on a small baguette. There’s also edamame and Kalbi wings, which are available only off and on. What The Box does best is the spicy gochujang, twice-cooked crispy chicken wings (1). They are shock-boiled to eradicate impurities, then deep-fried and slathered in a Korean fermented soybean, red chili, and glutinous rice paste-based sauce with chili oil, ginger, scallion, and black and white sesame seeds. It’s quite tangy and nicely cooled by the freshly made chard-scallion ranch dip. And it’s $6 for six wings.

Miller’s kitchen serves until midnight, but to be safe order by 11:30pm. Options under $10 are sparse but include the Texas chili bowl and the fried green tomato salad, which a very discriminating vegetarian I know loves. Sliding in right at $10 is the small muffuletta, a New Orleans sandwich classic made with a variety of Italian cold cuts—ham, capicola, salami, mortadella, pepperoni—and provolone and Swiss cheeses. But the thing that sets the muffuletta apart is an olive salad spread that involves a variety of minced olives, olive oil, sweet peppers, capers, vinegar, and Italian herbs and spices. The whole thing is piled in the middle of a heavy, round roll with a texture and consistency akin to focaccia. They could probably find a fresher, fluffier brand of roll but the sandwich still hits the spot when most every place else is closed.

On the Corner you’ve got the White Spot, which will consistently hook you up until 3am. The Gus burger (2), a decked out slider with a fried egg on top (probably used more effectively over the years as a hangover prevention than cure) is world-famous and has more web-posted photos than Lindsay Lohan. I tried the gyro sandwich last time and it wasn’t bad. The gyro meat is pre-sliced and packaged and seared on the griddle, but then put together with much gusto: tomato, onion, feta cheese, and tzatziki sauce on a nice, spongy pita. And the fries are top notch. I mean, there’s nothing wrong here.

A couple doors down, Littlejohn’s New York Deli serves all manner of specialty sandwiches of its own design, from clubs to reubens and more, and it’s open 24-7. The menu has subs of most every description from cheese steak to meatball. You can have ’em hot, cold, toasted or not. Pretty much all of it is under $7. There’s a pita pizza among the vegetarian options, but stick with the sandwiches. Littlejohn’s also knows to have a smattering of sauces on hand to ameliorate pretty much any situation.

And don’t discount the Waffle House option, again a 24-7 standby. I was in the Deep South last week and they are impossible to avoid. I took a London chef friend for breakfast Thanksgiving morning. He had The Texas sausage melt and hash browns smothered and peppered (3). Then sulked for the next three days because I couldn’t find the time to take him back. I opt for the patty melt and potatoes done the same way. The coffee is also better than any greasy spoon.

One stop shopping (and drinking)
Kill two birds with one stone at Early Mountain Vineyards on Saturday, December 8 and Sunday, December 9 for the third annual Holiday Open House from 11am-5pm. Shop from local artisans selling crafts and specialty food items while enjoying a glass of Virginia wine. Gift baskets stuffed with local fare and Early Mountain wines will also be available.

Santa will be visiting from the North Pole on Saturday from noon-3pm and Sunday from 3-5pm. Plus, the vineyard will also be collecting canned goods and nonperishable food items to donate to local food banks throughout the month of December.

A barrel of fun
For the beer enthusiasts in your life, share the love on Tuesdays at Blue Mountain Brewery’s “Geeks Who Drink” trivia night. Starting at 7pm, the brewery is packed with like-minded brew fans psyched to answer all sorts of trivia questions. The answers get loopier as the hand-crafted beer goes down quicker.

For the more sophisticated beer lover, head down Route 29 to the Barrel House, Blue Mountain’s sister brewery in Arrington, open Friday-Sunday from 11am-7pm for tastings, glasses of beer, and complimentary tours. Bring the growler for a refill on tap, or purchase 750ml bottles of specialty brews, such as the Mandolin (artisanal ale), Dark Hollow (imperial stout aged in bourbon barrels), Isabel (chocolate orange porter), Steel Wheels (extra special bitter), or the Uber Pils (imperial pilsener) to take home for yourself or to give as gifts.

On Fridays, we and The Charlottesville 29 feature five finds selected by local chefs and personalities.  In honor of the recent Virginia Cider Week, today’s picks come from Tim Edmond, co-owner of Potter’s Craft Cider, which, in its short existence, is already winning praise far and wide. Edmond’s picks:

1)  Soft Pretzel at Early Mountain Vineyards.   “If you haven’t ventured to Madison to check out this winery, the soft pretzel is reason enough.  They also have an awesome selection of Virginia wines and partner with wineries from across the state.  The fact that it is beautiful, they are steadfast supporters of Virginia wine and have committed to donate all profits to the Virgina wine industry, those are good reasons to check it out too.”

2)  House-made Sorghum Butter at The Whiskey Jar.  “I could eat it by itself but usually put it on hush puppies or ham biscuits.  Love this place, love the food and the understated local ingredients.”

3)  Goat Pasanda at Milan.  “I order this extra spicy with garlic naan.”

4)  Ginger Kombucha from Barefoot Bucha with a Hot Donut from Carpe Donut. “A favorite Saturday morning ritual is to walk the dog to Carpe Donut.  The kombucha is awesome and I love that you can also find Barefoot Bucha on draft at places like Blue Mountain Brewery, Whole Foods, and The Whiskey Jar.”

5)  Dinner at Forage.  “This is a ridiculously awesome supper club from chefs Megan Kiernan and Justin Stone.  They cook some of the best food in Charlottesville that is either foraged, bought, or bartered from local sources.”

The Charlottesville 29 is a publication that asks, and answers: if there were just 29 restaurants in Charlottesville, what would be the ideal 29? Follow along with regular updates on Facebook and Twitter.