Categories
Living

Enduring blooms: Gordonsville’s Floradise is an orchid lover’s paradise

Saunter through the Floradise Orchids greenhouse, the sound of Puccini mingling with the scent of soil and vanilla in the air, and Janet Cherchuck and Steve Shifflett will happily tell you a tale. They’ve got thousands of ’em, one for every orchid in the place.

There are Masdevallias, with their blooms like pointy, upside-down hearts—lipstick red, saffron yellow, tangerine orange—high-altitude orchids native to Central and South America. Certain Masdevallia species grow at Machu Picchu.

There’s the 1869 orchid, its white and maroon bloom bulbous and waxy, a division of the first man-made lady slipper hybrid, which won an award from the Royal Horticultural Society.

There are dozens of wee little baby orchids no bigger than a pinky fingernail, tiny green leaves and tiny silvery roots clinging to small slabs of craggy cork hooked to a trellis. There are orchids so young, they have not yet produced their first bloom (which can take from two years to two decades, depending on the species).

That Cherchuck and Shifflett are expert orchid raconteurs is only appropriate: Floradise has its roots in a book. While studying horticulture at the University of Maryland, Shifflett bought Harry Britton’s Orchids You Can Grow for $5 at a used book store.

Britton’s book was more than an orchid growing guide and reference book. It brought orchids to life, vividly discussing the individual species, the places they’re native to (orchids grow everywhere, even on sub-Antarctic Macquarie Island), who discovered or cultivated them, and more. It made Shifflett feel like he was traveling the world. He went out and got some orchids of his own.

Shifflett and Cherchuck opened Floradise, located on Route 15 in Gordonsville, in the winter of 1978-79. They’ve had some of the plants in the greenhouse since the beginning.

Floradise specializes in cultivating and arranging tropical orchids (plus succulents and cacti), and Cherchuck and Shifflett happily advise on which ones might best suit a customer’s taste, lifestyle, home or office environment, and budget. (Many orchids at Floradise cost between $20 and $40, but some specimens—older ones, in particular —can be costly.) They’ll consult on proper watering, repotting, relocating, and fertilizing methods. By the end of a greenhouse visit or phone call, customers will know where their orchid’s coming from and, with the proper care, where it will go.

Cherchuck and Shifflett’s shared passion for—and head-spinning knowledge of—these plants is what makes shopping at Floradise an experience altogether different from your run-of-the-mill supermarket orchid purchase. And with tens of thousands of types of known orchids out there, Cherchuck and Shifflett have constant fodder for enchanting not only greenhouse visitors, but themselves.

See these long strings coming off each flower? Nectar spurs, explains Cherchuck. This orchid’s from Madagascar. It’s white, fragrant at night, and in its natural habitat pollinated by a particular type of moth whose tongue is long enough to get nectar out of the long spurs (at Floradise, Cherchuck and Shifflett do the pollinating by hand). Because moths are mostly nocturnal, color would go to waste, as would daytime fragrance, Cherchuck explains, a smile spreading across her face as she leans in for a closer look at the plant she already knows so well.

“It’s just all beautifully designed,” she says with a sigh.

So, you want to grow an orchid…

Janet Cherchuck and Steve Shifflett of Floradise Orchids can help you with that, but first, they’ll need to know: Which orchid do you want to grow? Because ultimately, the kind of care an orchid needs depends on the kind of orchid in your care. The best thing you can do is ask an expert for help choosing the right bloom. Be honest about the type of environment that orchid would be in, and how committed you are to watering and feeding your plant so that it may continue to grow and bloom for many years. Buying a warehouse-bred $20 Phalaenopsis and watering it occasionally will give you a good show for a couple of months. The plant may or may not live beyond that bloom, but it’s still a much better value than any cut flower arrangement out there.—E.O.

Categories
Living

Little town, big star: Gordonsville’s Rochambeau lands a world-class chef

Rumors had been circulating for months that a major talent would take over the kitchen at Gordonsville’s Restaurant Rochambeau. He was coming in from France, where he had worked at two Michelin-starred restaurants. His sublime culinary skills had carried him around the world, from Portugal, to Tokyo, to Corsica, and to the United States, where in the early ’90s he cooked for world leaders as personal chef for then-UN secretary general Boutros Boutros-Ghali.

The rumors morphed into reality two weeks ago with the arrival of Bernard Guillot, 60, whom the State Department granted an O-1 visa, which is reserved for individuals who “demonstrate extraordinary ability by sustained national or international acclaim.”

Art on the plate: Seared filet of striped bass with spring vegetables, a la Guillot. Photo: Levi Cheff

Born and raised in Brittany, on the northwest coast of France, Guillot lived most recently in Reims, 90 miles northeast of Paris. He will now live in Gordonsville with his wife, whom me met in Portugal, and three children, ages 5, 8, and 12.

“We are all very happy to be here,” Guillot says, sitting in a dining room at Rochambeau in a crisp white chef’s jacket. “For me, to cook in a small town in the country, is a dream come true.”

Rochambeau occupies the quaint storefront space that was once home to the highly regarded Pomme, which put Gordonsville on the radar of food critics nationwide. In 2017, Pomme made the Los Angeles Times list of the 100 best brunch places in the United States. But after the chef passed away, Pomme’s reputation flagged.

“The people in the street said we need another great restaurant,” says Jacqueline Gupton, who co-owns Rochambeau with her husband. “Pomme and its French chef had set the precedent. That’s why I felt I needed another French chef.”

The Guptons worked with a restaurant consultant whose top recommendation was Guillot. Frankly, it was kind of a no-brainer. Guillot had worked for France’s renowned Troisgros family, whose restaurants—Les Freres Troisgros, later renamed La Maison Troisgros—have held three Michelin stars since 1968, and at Girardet, in Switzerland, also a Michelin three-star.

Guillot, who had been cooking at Rochambeau for only a week when we interviewed him, says he plans to change his menu with the seasons and offer prix fixe choices at three price points: $35, $55, and $120. The most expensive option comes with a wine pairing for each course. Rochambeau will also offer Sunday brunch, from 11am to 3:30pm, at $75 including wine.

Guillot says he plans to work with local purveyors; his first menu included a dish made with pastured lamb from Retreat Farm, in Rapidan. “I am only now getting to know a few producers,” Guillot says, taking a deep breath and sighing. “I will need a little more time, you know?”

One sure source of local ingredients is the herb garden in raised beds just outside the kitchen at Rochambeau. But Guillot will use some imported goods, including his proprietary blend of 21 spices that he has collected by trading with other chefs during his world travels.

“I make this all by hand,” he says. “It has been many years in the making.”

And for Gordonsville, Guillot may just turn out to have been worth waiting for.

Restaurant Rochambeau, 115 S. Main St., Gordonsville. (540) 832-0130, restaurantrochambeau.com