Recently arrived from France, chef Bernard Guillot has worked at Michelin-starred restaurants for more than three decades. Photo: Levi Cheff
Rumors had been circulating for months that a major talent would take over the kitchen at Gordonsville’s Restaurant Rochambeau. He was coming in from France, where he had worked at two Michelin-starred restaurants. His sublime culinary skills had carried him around the world, from Portugal, to Tokyo, to Corsica, and to the United States, where in the early ’90s he cooked for world leaders as personal chef for then-UN secretary general Boutros Boutros-Ghali.
The rumors morphed into reality two weeks ago with the arrival of Bernard Guillot, 60, whom the State Department granted an O-1 visa, which is reserved for individuals who “demonstrate extraordinary ability by sustained national or international acclaim.”
Art on the plate: Seared filet of striped bass with spring vegetables, a la Guillot. Photo: Levi Cheff
Born and raised in Brittany, on the northwest coast of France, Guillot lived most recently in Reims, 90 miles northeast of Paris. He will now live in Gordonsville with his wife, whom me met in Portugal, and three children, ages 5, 8, and 12.
“We are all very happy to be here,” Guillot says, sitting in a dining room at Rochambeau in a crisp white chef’s jacket. “For me, to cook in a small town in the country, is a dream come true.”
Rochambeau occupies the quaint storefront space that was once home to the highly regarded Pomme, which put Gordonsville on the radar of food critics nationwide. In 2017, Pomme made the Los Angeles Times list of the 100 best brunch places in the United States. But after the chef passed away, Pomme’s reputation flagged.
“The people in the street said we need another great restaurant,” says Jacqueline Gupton, who co-owns Rochambeau with her husband. “Pomme and its French chef had set the precedent. That’s why I felt I needed another French chef.”
The Guptons worked with a restaurant consultant whose top recommendation was Guillot. Frankly, it was kind of a no-brainer. Guillot had worked for France’s renowned Troisgros family, whose restaurants—Les Freres Troisgros, later renamed La Maison Troisgros—have held three Michelin stars since 1968, and at Girardet, in Switzerland, also a Michelin three-star.
Guillot, who had been cooking at Rochambeau for only a week when we interviewed him, says he plans to change his menu with the seasons and offer prix fixe choices at three price points: $35, $55, and $120. The most expensive option comes with a wine pairing for each course. Rochambeau will also offer Sunday brunch, from 11am to 3:30pm, at $75 including wine.
Guillot says he plans to work with local purveyors; his first menu included a dish made with pastured lamb from Retreat Farm, in Rapidan. “I am only now getting to know a few producers,” Guillot says, taking a deep breath and sighing. “I will need a little more time, you know?”
One sure source of local ingredients is the herb garden in raised beds just outside the kitchen at Rochambeau. But Guillot will use some imported goods, including his proprietary blend of 21 spices that he has collected by trading with other chefs during his world travels.
“I make this all by hand,” he says. “It has been many years in the making.”
And for Gordonsville, Guillot may just turn out to have been worth waiting for.
Restaurant Rochambeau, 115 S. Main St., Gordonsville. (540) 832-0130, restaurantrochambeau.com
Executive Chef Ian Redshaw grabs big attention for the cuisine at his little restaurant. Photo: Amy and Jackson Smith
Rising Star Chef of the Year is among the more prestigious accolades at the annual James Beard Awards, and a Charlottesville chef is in the running. Ian Redshaw—a veteran of Tavola and L’etoile, co-owner of Prime 109, and now executive chef at Lampo —has been named a semifinalist in the category recognizing “a chef age 30 or younger who displays exceptional talent, character, and leadership ability, and who is likely to make a significant impact in years to come.” Past awardees include Bobby Flay, David Chang, and Michael Mina, so Redshaw wouldbe in good company if he lands the top honor.
Horton hears a woo!
And the winner is: Horton Vineyards’ 2016 Petit Manseng. The Orange County (near Gordonsville) wine nabbed top honors in the 2019 Governor’s Cup competition, joining 11 others judged the year’s best in Virginia. Non-oenophiles can be forgiven for not knowing petit manseng, a grape grown primarily in southwestern France that acclimates well in Virginia. Aged in French oak, Horton’s winner is a hefty white, with notes of papaya, pineapple, apricot, and peach. Other area wines among the year’s top 12 include five by Michael Shaps Wineworks, two by King Family Vineyards, and one by Barboursville Vineyards.
Grapes divine
A few miles south of Charlottesville, along a dusty, rutted gravel road, you’ll find Loving Cup Vineyard and Winery. It’s tough to get to but worth the effort, largely because of the skills of Karl Hambsch. Recently named Grower of the Year by the Virginia Vineyards Association, Hambsch is the first person in the Commonwealth to obtain organic certifications for both a vineyard and a winery. “Virginia’s wine industry continues to grow, break new ground and plant the innovative seeds for future success,” says Bettina Ring, Virginia’s secretary of agriculture and forestry. “Karl Hambsch exemplifies these traits.” The winery opened in 2012, and now cultivates five acres of grapes.
Happy return
Charlottesville just got a little sweeter. Former Sweethaus co-owner Billy Koenig is back in business with Vivi’s Cakes and Candy. Koenig popped into the C-VILLE office a few days back to deliver samples by baker Rebecca Chambers, so we can vouch for Vivi’s cupcakes—two yums up! Koenig says Chambers will also be working her magic on special orders, including wedding cakes. The shop, named for Koenig’s daughter, is located at 2248 Ivy Rd.
Pearl Island Catering (owner Javier Figueroa-Ray, above) teamed up with Vu Noodles to serve lunch at the Jefferson School City Center Café. Photo by Amy Jackson
We’ll admit it: Last year’s end-of-year restaurant wrap-up was tough to write as we bid farewell to our beloved Spudnuts and to Brookville’s baked egg breakfasts. Little did we know that 2017 would be a boon for eatery openings. This might finally have been the year that convinced us that our eyes are, in fact, bigger than our bellies.
Ones that are new
Melissa Close-Hart’s long-awaited modern Mexican restaurant Junction opened in Belmont and Carpe Café began serving donuts, coffee, breakfast sandwiches and more in the Studio IX café space. Feelin’ Saucy Pizzeria and Corner Juice both opened on the Corner, while Tucker Yoder got back in the traditional restaurant game with Back 40 in the Timbercreek Market spot in the old Coca-Cola building on Preston Avenue (the market now focuses on butchery). Monsoon Siam opened a to-go outpost, aptly named Monsoon Siam Togogo, in the Main Street Market building.
The Coat Room gives off a speakeasy vibe as a restaurant-within-a-restaurant tucked underneath Brasserie Saison. Photo by Stephen Barling
Downtown, Iron Paffles and Coffee brought us pastry waffle sandwiches (we never knew we needed them, but consider us hooked). Turkish, Indian, Nepali and Mediterranean fusion restaurant Kebabish Sizzling and Fire Grille opened up on Water Street, and Urban Bowl started noodling around in the York Place building—but don’t confuse it with Citizen Bowl, a lunchtime-only salads- and grains-focused spot in the new Penny Heart event space. Restaurateur Will Richey and brewer Hunter Smith opened their Franco-Belgian beer and cuisine spot, Brasserie Saison, (complete with underground brewing space and private dining room) on the Downtown Mall.
Plus, former Public West chef Bryan Sewell opened Wayland’s Crossing Tavern in the old Public West spot in Crozet, and the Faulknier family began serving classic comfort food at the Cherry Avenue Diner in Fifeville.
Charlottesville foodies have more specialty shops to peruse, too, with Tilman’s, a cheese, wine and charcuterie-focused shop on the Downtown Mall, and Oliva, a gourmet olive oil and balsamic vinegar shop at Barracks Road Shopping Center.
Satisfying the city’s sweet tooth are The Candy Store on Fourth Street SE, and not one but two bakeries: mad-for-macaron wholesale bakery Bowerbird Bakeshop, and sprouted-grain, gluten-free and vegan bakery Moon Maiden’s Delights in the York Place building on the Downtown Mall.
A few new food trucks started wheeling around town, including El Guero, serving Cuban sandwiches and a Dr. Ho’s truck run by the North Garden pizza-slingers of the same name. And then there’s the highly mobile Sliced. Cake Bar, dishing out cake by the slice, buttercream shots and cake flights (like a beer flight, with cake). And then there’s Mochiko, serving Hawaiian food (including SPAM masubi rolls) at the City Market and other events around town since July.
But however will we wash it down? With beer, bubble tea and other beverages, of course. Richmond’s celebrated Hardywood Park Craft Brewery opened a pilot brewery and taproom on the ground floor of the Uncommon building at 1000 W. Main St., while Reason Beer began brewing and tapping beer on Route 29. Three Notch’d Brewery funked up Charlottesville’s beer scene with a sour house in its Grady Avenue spot.
The aptly named Bitty Bar started zipping around to area celebrations, serving cocktails and mocktails from a repurposed two-horse trailer, while the folks at Feast! had their own conversion, turning a 1974 Citroën H Van into a beverage cart with coffee, tea, mulled cider and other seasonal drinks served from a permanent spot in the Main Street Market. The adventurous tea drinkers among us can get a wide variety of bubble teas (sweetened teas mixed with milk, tapioca balls or fruit jelly) from Kung Fu Tea on West Main.
More chain restaurants opened local franchises this year, too, including Chopt, b. Good, MidiCi, Texas Roadhouse, Uncle Maddio’s Pizza, Fuzzy’s Taco Shop and Pizza Hut.
Plus, the Green Market at Stonefield launched its upscale May through October farmers market, and The Haven began serving community lunches every Wednesday.
Ones that grew
Other local food and drink spots took over a little more real estate this year. Juice Laundry opened its second location in Charlottesville (and third location overall) on the Corner, while Found. Market Co. added a storefront to its wholesale bakery business. Kitchen(ette), an offshoot of Kitchen Catering, began offering sandwiches for purchase a few days a week, and the Bageladies expanded their wholesale Bake’mmm bagel business into hundreds of Kroger stores across the country.
Three Notch’d Brewing Co. grew its brewing operation into an additional spacious restaurant and bar location at IX Art Park.
MarieBette Café & Bakery got a new facility that tripled its baking capacity (vive le gluten, indeed!), and Shenandoah Joe about doubled the size of its roastery/cafe on Preston Avenue. Champion Brewing Company added a kitchen to its Charlottesville taproom and expanded west, opening a taproom in Richmond. Vu Noodles and Pearl Island Catering teamed up to serve lunch at The Jefferson School City Center.
Ones that moved
Still other places moved around. Sweethaus also moved into IX, leaving its Tiffany-blue warehouse space on West Main behind. Parallel 38, which closed its Shops at Stonefield location in January, reopened in the former l’etoile location on West Main.
The Bebedero jumped from the Glass Building into a Downtown Mall location (where Brookville Restaurant used to be) and Cactus hopped into the former Aqui es Mexico spot.
Some chefs shuffled around, too. Harrison Keevil is now at his specialty grocery store, Keevil & Keevil Grocery and Kitchen, and served as a consultant on the revamped Commonwealth Restaurant & Skybar menu; Frank Paris moved over to Heirloom at Graduate Charlottesville after closing Miso Sweet; Dylan Allwood left C&O for Tavola; Jeremy Coleman filled the Rapture chef spot vacated by Chris Humphreys, now at Fellini’s; and Andrew Silver left Zocalo for Roots Natural Kitchen. Plus, Jose de Brito returned to town after a stint at the Michelin-starred Inn at Little Washington—he’s now chef de cuisine at Fleurie and a consultant for Petit Pois.
Ones on hold
Much to our dismay, it looks like Blue Moon Diner won’t open in early 2018 as expected—in fact, it could be almost a full year before we have our huevos bluemooños and powdered sugar-covered pancakes in the shadow of that glorious Vegas-era Elvis bust. For now, the occasional Blue Moon pop-ups at Snowing in Space will do, but it’s just not the same.
And that Sugar Shack we said was coming to West Main? It’s still happening, just a little later, and a little bigger: It’ll include a Luther Burger. Burgers served on donut buns? Okay, maybe we can wait a little longer.
Ones that closed
Now let’s take a moment to remember some of the places that closed this year, including the Shark Mountain Cafe at IX (Shark Too at the Darden School’s innovation Lab still stands), Zip Chicken, Downtown Thai, South Fork food truck, Nude Fude, quaint sandwich shop Salt Artisan Market, Flaming Wok, My Chocolate Shoppe, Miso Sweet Ramen + Donut Shop, Public West, Baja Bean North, Thai ’99 on Fontaine Avenue and Flora Artisanal Cheese. We’re still sad about losing Arley Cakes to Richmond, too.
Cho’s Nachos opened in January in the former McGrady’s spot on Preston Avenue, only to close before the 12-month mark. Photo by John Robinson
Ones that opened and were also deposed
As anyone in the business will tell you, the restaurant industry will chew you up and spit you out, even if you’re one of the hardest working folks out there. This year, three different Charlottesville restaurants opened and closed within the calendar year including Hamooda Shami’s Yearbook Taco replacement, 11 Months—but his concept restaurants have done well in Richmond, so go figure. Cho’s Nachos opened in January only to close mid-December, missing the one-year mark by just a couple of weeks.
And then there was Cardamom. After taking a break from restaurants to teach cooking, Lu Mei Chang returned to the scene with the Asian cuisine spot in February. Chang aimed to cook healthy, mostly meatless dishes, which pleased vegans, vegetarians and omnivores alike, but after holding a traditional pho pop-up (pho tends to include meat), some customers lashed out at Chang on social media, boycotted the restaurant and urged others to do so as well. Chang wouldn’t say whether the social media backlash contributed to her choice to close Cardamom just a few months after opening, but we can’t help but wonder.
Ones to cheer in the new year
There’s no telling what’s in store for Charlottesville food in 2018, but a few things seem certain. Aroma’s Cafe, which closed up shop in October after 10 years in Barracks Road Shopping Center (and nine prior years at Fontaine Research Park), will reopen in a new location soon. The Bageladies will (hopefully) have a bagelini bus to bring their pressed bagel sandwiches to the masses on non-City Market days. And, speaking of breakfast, the Villa Diner will move to a new location (we’re not sure where yet) in the summer.
The chains continue to rush in, though, as both a Zaxby’s fast food chicken joint and fast casual Mediterranean eatery CAVA are planned for Emmet Street Station. But there’s still hope for variety: Signs hanging outside two buildings on Fontaine Avenue indicate that Fry’s Spring will get a couple of new restaurants, Tibetan cuisine spot Druknya House and Silk Thai, next year. And don’t forget about Peloton Station, the sandwich joint/bike repair shop from chef Curtis Shaver and the rest of the Hamiltons’ at First & Main crew.
Perhaps the biggest food loss of the year—or at least the one with the largest community outcry—was the closing of Spudnuts this month after close to 50 years of providing us with potato flour donuts. Photo by Eze Amos
The end of 2016 has us eating our feelings. We’ve scrambled to get one more box of Spudnuts, wolfed down our last Brookville baked egg and toast points and devoured a final bowl of Mican noodles. Here’s a look back at the restaurants we said good-bye to this year, plus a rundown of new ones to look forward to in 2017.
Although we said so long to Just Curry on the Downtown Mall, in its stead we have Draft Taphouse, a serve-yourself-style bar with 60 taps.
Mican may have closed its York Place location on the mall, but it didn’t completely disappear from our lives—it now offers a smaller menu in the Lemongrass space on the Corner.
We’re whining about Mountfair Vineyards closing to the public—only club members can sip and savor there now.
The bad news is: Belmont BBQ officially closed. The good news is: The Local Smokehouse (the team behind The Local) fired up a barbecue joint in its place.
Harrison Keevil’s Brookville restaurant served its last meal this month, but you can still enjoy Keevil’s cooking at Keevil & Keevil Grocery and Kitchen in Belmont, which opened this summer.
Keeping pace with the changing times, Tempo on the corner of Water Street and Fifth Street SE is now fittingly home to Water Street restaurant.
After 10 years of pints, Tuesday trivia nights and St. Paddy’s Day celebrations, McGrady’s Irish Pub said farewell with a final party in September. Cho’s Nachos and Beer is slated to cater to McGrady’s former regulars.
West Main Street saw some change of spaces as well: C’Ville-ian Brewing Company closed in October, and Snowing in Space nitro coffee has set up shop in its place. And the former Horse & Hound Gastropub space finally has new tenants with Los Jarochos Mexican restaurant dishing out Veracruz food.
Speaking of Mexican food, Yearbook Taco on the Downtown Mall is no more, but owner Hamooda Shami has big plans for the space: A restaurant pop-up concept called 11 Months that changes—you guessed it—every 11 months.
We’re also not ready to say au revoir to Rock Barn, which is selling its remaining inventory through the end of this month. Founder Ben Thompson says we’ll have to wait and see what his next steps will be.
And perhaps the saddest closing of all is Spudnuts, the beloved donut palace on Avon Street. The store has been run by the Fitzgerald family for close to 50 years, and current owners Mike and Lori Fitzgerald said the time had come for an end of an era. The couple still owns the building, so we’re hoping to have more good food news to report soon.
And we would be remiss not to note the departure of one of the greatest culinary masters in this town: Jose De Brito, former executive chef at The Alley Light, joined Patrick McConnell’s staff at The Inn at Little Washington in May.
Full plates in 2017
But as we lament the loss of some of our favorite spots, we’re starting to get excited for new ones that are slated to appear in 2017.
Hardywood, a Richmond-based brewery twice voted Virginia’s top brewery by ratebeer.com users, is on track to open a Charlottesville location at 1000 W. Main St. in the Uncommon building.
In other brewery news, Hunter Smith, of Champion Brewing Co., is teaming up with restaurateur mastermind Will Richey to open Brasserie Saison in the former Jean Theory spot on the mall, where Benelux cuisine will be served, along with exclusive specialty beers brewed on-site by Smith and the Champion team.
Piedmont Place, which recently opened in Crozet, has a whole bunch of food options in the Piedmont Market, inspired by NYC’s Chelsea Market: a brick-and-mortar spot for Morsel Compass’ food truck noshes; homemade, small-batch ice cream at Crozet Creamery and Smojo smoothies and juice. In addition, there’s Smoked Kitchen and Tap (an extension of offerings from the Smoked BBQ food cart that left the Downtown Mall in August) on the lower terrace, and several floors up you’ll find, The RoofTop (also run by the Smoked team), offering pizzas, flatbreads and a Blue Ridge Mountain vista feast for the eyes.
We’re crossing our fingers that James Beard semi-finalist Melissa Close-Hart will finally open Junction, her much-anticipated “Mexican meets Old West” Southwestern saloon/steakhouse-style restaurant in Belmont.
We’re also eager to experience the perks of an expanded Shenandoah Joe on Preston Avenue and a larger Three Notch’d Brewing Co. location at IX Art Park, scheduled to open in November 2017.
And to end the column on a sweet note, we’ve heard Charlottesville is getting a Sugar Shack Donuts and that Sweethaus is moving to a bigger location.
