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Culture Food & Drink

Small bites

Arrivederci, stay tuned

There’s little that disappoints us more than a well-loved, local restaurant that’s gone before its time. Mangione’s on Main, known for an inviting ambiance as well as the quality of its hearty Italian cuisine, closed its doors just shy of the restaurant’s third anniversary.

“Our lease was ending, and we knew that we did not have it in us to sign up for a long-term commitment,” says co-owner Elaina Mangione. “We are very proud and fortunate to say that we were able to stay open and serve the community in addition to keeping most of our staff fully employed during the challenges of the pandemic. We had an amazing team and we couldn’t be more proud of them.” 

While patrons are going to miss everything from the bold linguini with clam sauce to the more traditional spaghetti aglio e olio, Mangione says foodies should “stay tuned!” and teases at something new on the horizon. “Something really amazing is likely taking over the space and we cannot wait to welcome them to the community,” she says.

Brew’s through

The team at Wild Wolf Brewing Company sold its last pint at the end of January after more than 10 years in business. Wild Wolf Brewery was created when entrepreneur Mary Wolf and her son Danny came into ownership of a 100-year-old Nelson County schoolhouse. The pair converted the building into a brewery and event space, and went on to produce a variety of award-winning ales and lagers. After so much success, the Wolf family decided to sell its brewing headquarters and ceased operations on January 30.

It’s like a foodie court on the mall

On the flip side of beer news, Rockfish Brewing Co. is expanding its business to a new downtown location (on one side of the former Downtown Grille). This announcement comes shortly after it won second prize at the Crozet Winter Brews Festival for its Nice Marmot Imperial Stout. Rockfish will be the first brewery to have its own storefront on the mall, and aims to open in April. 

Adjacent to Rockfish’s new digs is a neighbor with a familiar menu. The Bebedero has moved its location downstairs to occupy the other part of the former Downtown Grille space, and will be serving its traditional Mexican recipes at the newly remodeled restaurant in February.

Tucked into the CODE Building plaza is the new permanent kitchen from FARMacy Food Truck. FARMacy will continue to serve organic Mexican food to go, with a menu of fan favorites from the mobile edition, while doubling down on its commitment to organic, locally sourced ingredients. Owners Jessica and Gabino Lino’s “food is medicine, so eat good food” philosophy, along with their initial success, proves that you can take the food out of the food truck, but you can’t take the farm out of the FARMacy. Right next door is Ooey Gooey Crispy, the next-level spot for grown-up grilled cheese, soups, salads, and breakfast sammies. Try the Neo-politan, with mozz, tomato conserva, and Parmesan butter, or a buffalo chicken and blue cheese ’wich named for Scott Norwood, the infamous Buffalo Bills’ kicker.

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Culture Living

Brewin’ through it: Oktoberfest is canceled. Autumn beers are not.

Sadly, the largest and most famous Oktoberfest celebration, held annually in Munich, Germany, has been canceled this year due to COVID-19. Oktoberfest traditionally begins in mid- September and continues into October. Of course, autumn isn’t canceled, and as it arrives in Virginia, local breweries and beer drinkers can look forward to the release of beers appropriate for the season.

In Germany, the term Oktoberfestbier is legally defined with strict regulations about ingredients, brewing methods, alcohol levels, etc. In the United States, breweries have a bit more leeway, but beers that are specifically for Oktoberfest fall primarily into two categories: festbier or märzen. Märzen is the darker, fuller-bodied style many identify as the beer of fall, and was once the beer served in Germany for Oktoberfest. However, recently there’s been a move away from this style to the lighter-bodied festbier style. Festbier, a pale lager with low alcohol content, is more refreshing, making it easier to drink, and easier to drink more of.

Whether your personal preference is for a lighter- or a fuller-bodied style, local breweries have you covered.

The Festie Oktoberfest Lager from Starr Hill Brewery is available only during the months of September and October. It’s traditional in style with a low alcohol level of 4.8 percent ABV (alcohol by volume), and a pale golden color that is accompanied by a malty, biscuit nose and a light yeasty bread palate with just a hint of Hallertau hops. Interestingly, the beer is labeled “märzen-style” but falls squarely in the festbier category. It’s also available as part of the brewery’s Fall Tour variety pack that includes Starr Hill’s Grateful Pale Ale, Reviver Red IPA, and Last Leaf Maple IPA too.

Devils Backbone also has a festbier, the O’Fest Lager. It comes in slightly heavier at 5.9 percent ABV. It’s golden in color with a bit more fullness on the palate. A light nose of cracker and lemon peel leads to malty and toasted bread flavors, with a drying finish and slightly lingering hop bitterness. Very classic in style, this will appeal to those who find other festbiers a bit too light.

The 13.Five Oktoberfest Lagerbier from Blue Mountain Brewery takes its name from German regulatory laws requiring beers served at Oktoberfest to have an original specific gravity of 13.5° Plato. This number is related to the final alcohol level, which is 6 percent ABV in this case. The beer is medium amber in color, with a nose that is malty and bready, with hints of toasted sesame. On the palate, it is rich with lots of biscuit and cracker and well-balanced hop character. This märzen-style brew is a clear nod to tradition and is a good example of what many expect of Oktoberfest beer.

Just released, the Märzen Oktoberfest- style Amber Lager from Random Row Brewing Co. comes in at 5.8 percent ABV and brings malty, yeasty flavors with hints of rye bread. There is a touch of citrus- flavor hops on the slightly drying finish. Very pleasant and easy drinking, it’s available on tap and in four-packs of 16-ounce cans.

Three Notch’d Brewing Company’s limited release Oktoberfest beer is cleverly named Hansel and Kettle Imperial Oktoberfest. Available in 16-ounce. cans, this is a full-bodied märzen-style beer with higher alcohol (8 percent ABV), a dark caramel color, and a weighty palate. The sweet biscuit nose leads to flavors of toast and dark caramel and a long finish that has just a hint of bitterness. Very enjoyable for those looking for a fuller style märzen.

Champion Brewing is really getting into Oktoberfest this year with the release of four German-style beers: a festbier (5.5 percent ABV), a märzen (also 5.5 percent ABV), a kölsch (5 percent ABV), and Lagerboi (a zwickelpils, which is an unfiltered pilsner-style beer that is becoming more popular with American beer drinkers and comes in at 4.8 percent ABV). Hunter Smith, president of Champion, shared that he is excited to also feature the festbier and märzen on tap at his Brasserie Saison restaurant.

One of the newest breweries in town, Selvedge Brewing at The Wool Factory, is also offering a traditionally German style for the fall. Corduroy is a bock, typically darker in color and a little higher in alcohol than beers made for Oktoberfest. At 7 percent ABV, it’s a deep amber brew that’s still smooth on the palate. The nose is reminiscent of rising bread dough. Full flavors combine malty, yeasty, and roasted nuttiness with a slight sweetness. The overall impression suggests warm, toasted brioche, and it’s a perfect beer for chilly autumn days.

Lastly, for some the fall season would not be complete without flavors of pumpkin or maple. While the explosion of pumpkin beers that was seen a few years ago has seemed to subside, Rockfish Brewing Co. offers a seasonal pumpkin ale for those who are looking. The previously mentioned Last Leaf Maple IPA from Starr Hill will entice those who love maple syrup with a flavor that isn’t overly sweet, but reminds them of freshly made pancakes on a Saturday morning.

Whatever your fancy, local breweries are offering a variety of beers to tempt your palate this autumn. Even if you can’t travel to Germany, it’s still possible to celebrate Oktoberfest and good beer here in Virginia.