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Living

Tavola bartenders are rocking national competitions

Two of Tavola’s bartenders are shaking up national drinks-related competitions. Bar manager Steve Yang was named one of 12 regional finalists in the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s annual World Class bartending competition. “Qualifying is both humbling and terrifying,” Yang says of going shaker-to-shaker with some of the best bartenders in the country.

An expert panel reviewed applicants’ essays and replicated their cocktail recipes. Yang submitted the Inquisitions, which is made up of Bulleit Rye Whiskey, Cynar, Cocchi di Torino, Benedictine, Angostura orange bitters and a rinse of Caol Ila 12 Scotch Whisky. The regional finalists compete on May 7 in Washington, D.C., and three national finalists will move on to compete for the title of U.S. Bartender of the Year.

“I’m passionate about any event that increases the visibility of women in the restaurant industry,” says Rebecca Edwards, Tavola assistant bar manager. Photo by Eze Amos

Assistant bar manager Rebecca Edwards will participate in the Speed Rack Mid Atlantic regional on March 19 at Union Stage in Washington, D.C. Speed Rack is a national, women-only speed bartending competition that spotlights female mixologists who work in a male-dominated field, all while raising money for breast cancer research, education and prevention.

The lengthy application process included essays and even a video component, but Edwards’ reason for wanting to compete is simple: “I’m passionate about any event that increases the visibility of women in the restaurant industry,” she says. There are four rounds total: The first round focuses on speed alone, and the eight fastest bartenders proceed to round two, where they’re judged on speed, technique and overall skill. Edwards says that there’s a list of “roughly 100” cocktails that Speed Rack competitors are urged to know, so she’s been preparing with a series of flashcards and some help from her colleagues. “Busy Friday nights at Tavola are good practice, too,” she adds.

Little Star shines bright

The Oakhart Social duo of chef Tristan Wraight and general manager Ben Clore are teaming up with chef Ryan Collins of Early Mountain Vineyards to bring Little Star, a new restaurant, to the space most recently occupied by Three Penny Café.

The three showcased a sneak peek of the dishes-yet-to-come in a two-evening pop-up at Oakhart February 27 and 28. On the menu: tuna ceviche with kumquat, coconut leche de tigre, almonds, serrano peppers, cilantro and toasted amaranth; dry aged ribeye carpaccio with grilled cactus, Parmesan, chive blossoms and migas; the deceivingly simple-sounding sunny side up eggs with salsa negra green onion, cilantro, sesame seeds, hickory syrup and grilled bread; wood roasted lamb neck with braised cabbage, guajillo chile broth and hominy corn; and soft and crispy pork ribs with salsa naranja, white onion, epazote and crispy ancho chile. The Pen + Knife blog team shares a dispatch from the popup that declares if “you don’t like ceviche, this dish will be your religious conversion.” That’s enough to pique our interest—more details to come on opening day, likely in the summertime.

Our cups runneth over

The winners of the 2018 Virginia Wineries Association’s Governor’s Cup were announced in late February. Of the 442 Virginia wines that a group of world-class judges sampled from 100 Virginia wineries, just 12 wines—the highest-ranking reds and the highest-ranking whites—make up the Governor’s Case. Local wines from Barboursville Vineyards, Early Mountain Vineyards, Jefferson Vineyards, Keswick Vineyards, Veritas Vineyard & Winery and King Family Vineyards hold seven of those 12 spots, with King Family Vineyards’ 2014 Meritage taking top honors overall. All wines entered in the competition were made from 100 percent Virginia fruit.—C-VILLE’s At the Table columnist C. Simon Davidson and writers from the Pen + Knife blog contributed to this column.

Categories
Living

Michelin-rated D.C. restaurants boast local ties

Star chefs

In 1900, French tire moguls Ándre and Édouard Michelin found a creative way to get more people to buy their tires: a restaurant and hotel ratings guide that would get people in their cars, on the road and wearing down tire treads going from place to place.

By 1926, the Michelin Guide started awarding a dining star to select spots; by 1931, the guide expanded its star ratings to two and three stars. By 1936, the guide defined its system: one star for “a very good restaurant in its own category,” two stars for “excellent cooking, worth a detour”’ and three stars for “exceptional cuisine, worth the special trip.”

Decades later, chefs and restaurateurs around the world work their whole lives in hopes of earning even a single Michelin Star for their restaurant; only a select few earn one, even fewer earn two, and only a portion of those few earn three (just 13 restaurants in the U.S. have three stars). The acquisition or loss of a star can make or break a restaurant (and a chef’s spirit). On October 13, Michelin released its first Washington, D.C., guide and awarded stars to 12 restaurants in the district.

Charlottesville has connections to two of them.

Chef Jose De Brito left his position as head chef at The Alley Light in May to join the vast kitchen staff at The Inn at Little Washington. When asked about the stars, De Brito says, “I do not have much to say. I am just the lucky witness to chef Patrick O’Connell’s 38 years of work and vision being rewarded by two beautiful stars.”

The Dabney, chef Jeremiah Langhorne’s casual restaurant known for its commitment to crafting heritage American cuisine from ingredients sourced from the Mid-Atlantic region, received one Michelin Star (Langhorne is from Charlottesville—he trained under chef John Haywood at OXO restaurant before moving on to McCrady’s in Charleston, South Carolina). Christian Johnston, who made a name for himself mixing cocktails at The Alley Light before becoming bar manager at Tavola, will join The Dabney staff later this fall as the restaurant expands its bar program. Tyler Hudgens, who worked at Commonwealth Restaurant and Skybar before heading to D.C. and hiring Johnston to The Dabney team, says she is impressed by Johnston’s “leadership, creativity and investment in his community. He won’t be ‘filling anyone’s shoes,’ and will be able to make his own mark on our constantly honed service and drinks.”

Johnston, who will also work at The Bird in D.C., says that after working in just about every restaurant position—bouncer, sous chef, bar manager—here in Charlottesville, moving to D.C. seems like the logical next step for a C’ville native about to turn 30 and seeking to expand his horizons. What’s more, D.C. ABC laws aren’t as strict as Virginia’s, so Johnston is eager to have access to more cocktail components, though he’s proud of many of the drinks he’s created here in town, particularly the Bittersweet Symphony (Tanqueray gin, Yellow Chartreuse, Aperol, fresh lemon and lime juice) and the Dea Marrone (brown butter-washed Bulleit bourbon, Yellow Chartreuse, brown sugar and Averna syrup, apple cider shrub and fresh lemon juice) served at Tavola.

Johnston’s last shifts at Tavola and The Alley Light were on October 29 and 30, respectively. Steve Yang, who’s worked under Johnston, will take over the bar at Tavola.

Christian Johnston, bar manager at Tavola who got his start mixing cocktails at The Alley Light, will depart Charlottesville for The Dabney in D.C.

Contact Erin O’Hare at eatdrink@c-ville.com.