Categories
Living

Include the pooch: Make your dog part of your wedding day

It’s a tale (tail?) of true love. More and more people are including their dogs in their wedding. After all, they’re family (and maybe more likeable than some relatives). From acting as best man to flower dog to ring bearer, Fido’s getting in on the action.

Local blogger Jeannine Lalonde Smith and her husband, Marc, were up for a fun, improvised event when they got married June 1 at North Garden’s Pippin Hill Farm. That meant “a gaggle of children in our wedding, doing whatever happened naturally.” It also meant including their 5-year-old golden retriever, Baxter.

How? Jeannine found a venue that would allow pets, and let her vendors know of her plans. She hired a handler to bring Baxter to the event before the ceremony and take him home afterward (and keep him away from the wedding cake!). She asked the oldest children in the wedding party to be responsible for getting him down the aisle.

But not all canines can handle the attention and stress of a big event, and many of them aren’t behaved enough to participate. If that’s the case, feature your pooch in the invitations, wedding favors, or their likeness on the cake topper. Jeannine’s wedding program included Baxter’s photo, and he was also on a poster for guests to sign at the reception. She even had tiny porcelain golden retrievers glued to her ring bearers’ boutonnieres.

Jeannine said having Baxter in the wedding was a howling success. “It would have been incomplete without him.”

Get a handler on it!
Cville Concierge provides such a service. You’ll just need to provide your pup’s medical history, emergency contact info, and preferences as to where to keep the dog during the event. Call 409-0119 for more info.—Lynn Thorne

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News

Kerry in Cabell: Secretary of State’s first speech delivered at UVA

The choice of the University of Virginia as the venue for John Kerry’s first major policy speech as Secretary of State surely had something to do with the lingering presence of Thomas Jefferson on Grounds. UVA’s founder was, after all, the first person to hold the title Kerry recently acquired, and his name was invoked at least ten times during longtime senator and former presidential hopeful’s midday address at a packed Old Cabell Hall yesterday (poor James Monroe, that other local founder and Secretary, only got three mentions).

But Kerry used his setting to drive home what was a main focus of his agenda-setting speech: More than ever, what happens over there matters over here.

“Why is it that I am at the foot of the Blue Ridge instead of the shore of the Black Sea?” he asked. “Why am I in Old Cabell Hall and not Kabul, Afghanistan? The reason is very simple. I came here purposely to underscore that in today’s global world, there is no longer anything foreign about foreign policy.”

Kerry’s speech laid out the challenges America’s foreign policy is tasked with tackling, from AIDS and gender inequality to conflict and climate change—he was particularly forceful on that last point, getting loud applause when he called safeguarding the planet against the disasters brought on by the shifting climate “the most sacred trust we keep for our children and grandchildren.”

But if there was one takeaway word from the speech, it was “investment.” The new Secretary repeatedly underscored the need to protect American business interests abroad, while also using targeted aid to turn poor countries into future trade partners. He said people in the U.S. need to remember that despite its relatively tiny budget—just a little over 1 percent of the government’s total spending—the State Department can have a huge impact on the future of American prosperity.

“Foreign assistance is not a giveaway,” he said. “It is not charity. It’s an investment in a strong America and a free world.”

All the trade talk wasn’t lost on other watchers. National news reports noted the absence of a mention of any number of major conflicts and other foreign policy challenges in Kerry’s speech—most notably Syria, currently embroiled in a bloody civil war (though he did give a nod to the need for a nuclear-free Iran).

When he did talk war, it was to drive home his point that Americans must not turn inward.

“Today’s first years here at UVA were starting second grade when a small cabal of terrorists halfway around the world shattered our sense of security,” he said. And then he talked directly to those who made up a big portion of the crowd: The students, including the undergrads in Navy dress blues sitting next to me as I tweeted my way through the hourlong speech. “I know that you certainly have always understood that bad things happening over there threatens us over here.”

But, he asked, how do we convince people everywhere that the opposite is true? That looking outward with clear heads and thoughtful aid can make all the difference in the world? That’s his job now, Kerry said—and the job of the country.

“When tragedy and terror visit our neighbors abroad, whether by the hand of man or the hand of God, many nations give of themselves to help, but only one is expected to,” he said as he wrapped up his speech. “We will continue to lead as the indispensible nation, not because we seek this role, but because the world needs us to fill it. Not as a challenge, but as a charge. Not because we view it as a burden, but because we know it to be a privilege.”

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News

Off the reservation: Bill Bolling goes his own way

Although we’re sure he doesn’t see it this way, being rejected by his own party might be the best thing that ever happened to Lieutenant Governor Bill Bolling. Think about it: A year ago, Bolling was just a boring party apparatchik whose main function was breaking ties in the evenly divided senate (always in the GOP’s favor, of course). In fact, if he was known at all back then, he was known as the guy who was almost certainly going to lose the Republican gubernatorial nomination to Attorney General Ken Cuccinelli.

But after suffering a series of political setbacks (mostly at the hands of his party’s conservative wing), Bolling finally called it quits, effectively handing the nomination to Cuccinelli and, in the process, reinventing himself as a borderline interesting person.

Bolling’s transformation began almost immediately, as he refused to endorse Cuccinelli and began hinting that he might consider a third-party bid for the governor’s seat. He then set about staking out positions in direct opposition to Governor McDonnell, rejecting a wide range of McDonnell proposals, including uranium mining, making parts of I-95 a toll road, and arming schoolteachers.

Bolling’s most recent apostasy came when he refused to go along with a redistricting power grab by state senate Republicans, forcing them to wait until a Democratic senator was out of town to force through the legislation on a party line vote (a particularly craven procedural trick that helped ensure the bill’s ultimate demise).

Now, the smart money still says that Bolling will forgo running as an independent this year. After all, Virginia governors are limited to one term, and Bolling would still be a relatively spry 60 years old in 2017.

But the smart money can be pretty dumb—especially when it comes to intangibles like ambition and personal animosity. There’s no doubt that Bolling harbors deep resentment toward the Cooch, who jumped the line and denied Bolling a nomination he’s coveted for years. Add to this the fact that Cuccinelli just released a book, The Last Line of Defense: The New Fight for American Liberty, that is exactly as gonzo and fringe-dwelling as you would expect from the Tea Party’s favorite AG. (For instance, he labels the Obama administration “the biggest set of lawbreakers in America,” and claims that, by requiring all Americans to purchase health insurance, President Obama “did to the American people what the tyrant we rebelled against in 1775 couldn’t even do when we were merely subjects.” Oh yeah—he also come out firmly against public pools.)

This latest hardbound evidence of Cuccinelli’s extremely right-wing views might endear him to the Republican base, but there’s no way that it helps him win a general election—especially in a blue-trending commonwealth like Virginia. And, as Democratic nominee Terry McAuliffe has yet to gain real traction, it’s entirely possible that Bolling senses an opportunity to ride in and defeat not only McAuliffe, but also his much-hated Republican rival.

The question is, does he have the Bolling balls to do it? Even a couple of months ago, we’d have laughed at the idea of the blandest gray suit in Richmond transforming himself into a party-straddling populist. But now that an obviously liberated Bolling is beginning to feel his oats, anything seems possible. So rest assured, when he takes the stage for a planned “big announcement” on March 14, we’ll be watching with bated breath.

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Arts

Breaking the chrysalis: Whistler’s early work reveals non-conformist beauty

The butterfly of “Becoming the Butterfly,” The Fralin Museum’s current exhibition of etchings and lithographs by James Abbott McNeill Whistler refers to the stylized butterfly that Whistler used to sign his work and the exhibition. Curated by Emilie Johnson, the show provides a succinct yet effective window into Whistler’s evolution as an artist. This is the first of two shows at the museum focusing on the American 19th century master’s prints (through April 28). The second (opening April 30), will feature portraits.

Born in Lowell, Massachusetts in 1834, Whistler began studying art when he was 9 in St. Petersburg, Russia, where his father, an eminent civil engineer, was employed by the Moscow-St. Petersburg Railway. Following the death of his father when Whistler was 15, the family returned to America.

While attending his father’s alma mater, West Point, Whistler was an indifferent student in all but drawing and did so badly in chemistry, that he was eventually dismissed. Thereafter, he worked for the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey in the drawing department, where he learned etching.

In 1855, Whistler went to Paris to study with Charles-Gabriel Gleyre. He became friends with Gustave Courbet, Manet, and Degas, and was exposed to Japanese art as it was just coming onto the radar screens of Western artists. This particular aesthetic, with its conservative palette, flattened space, and overall restraint, would prove to have a profound influence on his later work. In 1859, Whistler moved to England where he remained, for the most part, until his death in 1903.

Eight Whistler etchings are exhibited at The Fralin, together with three by artists who influenced him: Rembrandt, Charles Meryon, and Seymour Haden. His prints from 1858-59 are models of precise, unsentimental reportage.

The woman seated in the field, a parasol half shading her face from “En Plein Soleil” (1858), reveals the influence of his realist friend, Courbet. It also provides a wonderful example of Whistler’s dexterity of line: the tightly controlled hatches that describe the woman give way to free strokes rendering her surroundings.

In his pastoral “Landscape with Horses” of 1859, one can spot on the image’s edge a worker installing telegraph cable—a potent aside referencing the birth of modern technology. It’s easy to imagine Oliver Twist or Gaffer Hexam wandering around the landscape featured in “Thames Police” (1859), a detailed view of London’s riverbank before Victorian urban renewal transformed it.

Over time, Whistler became interested in conveying mood rather than direct narrative, using variations of tone to accomplish this. The title of his most famous painting, colloquially known as “Whistler’s Mother,” is actually “Arrangement in Grey and Black No. 1” (1871). This new direction is apparent in his painterly lithotints from the 1870s. Here, the use of tusche (an oily black liquid) washes applied directly onto the lithographic stone enabled him to modulate tonal effects with sumptuous results as in the quintessentially Whistler “Nocturne” of 1878, an evocative scene of boatmen in punt-like craft, shimmering river and far shore with reflections, steam, light, shadow, and haze adding atmosphere and tranquil beauty to the composition. Whistler cleverly used blue paper, markedly enhancing the work’s crepuscular effect.

A brilliant artist, Whistler was also a larger than life figure, variously described as arrogant and abrasive. The famous 1885 William Merritt Chase portrait of him seems to capture his confrontational insouciance perfectly with his provocative pose, wild hair and imperious gaze. As his monocle and cane attest, he was flamboyant in both dress and personality. His relationships with critics were notoriously acrimonious.

In 1877, John Ruskin’s essay “Truth to Nature” famously attacked Whistler’s “Nocturne in Black and Gold: The Falling Rocket,” saying he had flung “a pot of paint in the public’s face.” Whistler, whose personal credo was “art for art’s sake,” would have none of that and so sued Ruskin for libel. Though Whistler triumphed, it was a Pyrrhic victory: awarded a farthing’s damages, he was financially ruined by court costs and the scandal-related decline in sales. He spent the following year in Venice, working on a commission for the Fine Arts Society. The resulting 12 etchings helped repair his image and he eventually regained his financial footing and reputation.

Though he may come across as difficult, Whistler’s only real fault was he knew his own worth and would brook no criticism from detractors who didn’t understand him. While Whistler was building the very foundation of the modern movement, the critics who bedeviled him were bogged down in the Victorian miasma of their own narrow view.

It’s the age-old story of the genius way ahead of his time. Whistler was a vanguard out there on the frontier of art with an approach so revolutionary as to be incomprehensible to most contemporaries. In his words: “Art should be independent of all claptrap—should stand alone, and appeal to the artistic sense of eye and ear, without confounding this with emotions entirely foreign to it, as devotion, pity, love, patriotism, and the like. All these have no kind of concern with it, and that is why I insist on calling my works ‘arrangements’ and ‘harmonies.’”

Categories
Living

Accounting for taste: The making of a cocktail menu

The first thing that many of us do when we sit down at a restaurant or belly up to a bar is pick up the beer menu, the wine menu, and/or the drink menu. Some of us take a break from old faithful and try something new on occasion. It is for these reasons that we (bartenders and bar managers) develop menus and lists.

Rotating each of these lists is vital to an operation. It keeps you engaged in what we do. Seasonality is a movement in the industry. In a perfect world, this would be the industry standard, but unfortunately, that’s not the case. Too many establishments can’t break themselves from the pre-mix sours or hyper-red cherries. We should be giving our customers the freshest ingredients available. Does this mean that we shouldn’t be making margaritas in the winter? Some would argue yes. but I’m not one of them. I know that we need to use bulk ingredients sometimes. We need to buy limes and lemons that come from Argentina or Chile and not just Florida or California. But on occasion, we should try our hands at sourcing verjus (a pre-wine juice that one can substitute for acid) or encourage imbibers to try rice milk instead of cream in drinks. Need for these substitute ingredients is where a drink list comes in.

Having just finished revamping the cocktail menu at Commonwealth Restaurant & Skybar, the making of such a list has been on my mind lately. Ours is 64 drinks deep, broken into eight sections based on body, alcohol, beer pairings, and modern vs. classic, but the final decisions didn’t come easy. Building a drink list properly takes time, testing, and, above all, patience. It’s about balance of sweet vs. bitter and acidity vs. basic. It’s about the approachability of the drinks and making sure that there is something for everyone. Too often, I will walk into a cocktail lounge and see nothing more than the creator’s ego on the list. Too many bitter drinks, too many high acid drinks, and nothing for the common drinker. It is very important that execution of the recipes is spot-on as well. There should be no drink on the list that the staff can’t execute. If it has egg, bartenders should know how to shake and emulsify. If it has raw lime or lemon, we should know how to temper it with a sweetener or liqueur and bitters.

Another confusing aspect of a drink list can be the re-imagining of a drink with its ingredients, but at the same time keeping the name. This confuses the guest. If it’s a Tom Collins, label it as such. If you take the time to change the ingredients and follow the pattern, then rename it. It’s a good thing to pay homage to the original drink. It’s even better when we know it’s been tinkered with. The perfect example of this is anything that ends in “tini.” A martini is gin (or vodka), vermouth, and either bitters and a twist or an olive. That’s it.

For having such a “down-home” feel, Charlottesville has some pretty spot-on places that have some really nice additions to their lists. Some are paying homage to the classics, some are straight out of their makers’ heads. Certainly the list we’ve put together at Commonwealth tops my list, but here are a few other favorites that really hit the spot.

Zinc: A nice list that is put together with thought. I really dig the Ford. It’s an elegant and very old cocktail from the late 19th century.

Fossett’s Bar at Keswick Hall: Liquor selection is top notch and I pray that the Rhubarb Collins is still on the list every time I visit.

Mono Loco: Things just get crazy there. My favorites on the menu are La Pina Loco and the Salty Loco.

Categories
Arts

Album reviews: Fiction Family, Trixie Whitley, and Sandra McCracken

Fiction Family

Fiction Family Reunion/Rock Ridge Music

When Switchfoot’s Jon Foreman and Nickel Creek’s Sean Watkins combined forces to release their self-titled debut in 2009, they stumbled onto a bold and brilliant idea. Mixing Foreman’s rock sensibilities and lyrical prowess with Watkins’ acoustic pop and bluegrass leanings, they created a surprisingly magical release. Their sophomore album, Fiction Family Reunion, has proven that their debut was no fluke. Foreman probes the depths of love, struggle, and life’s unknowns in the first single “Up Against the Wall,” and “Give Me Back My Girl,” sounds like it was recorded during Switchfoot’s Hello Hurricane sessions. Watkins holds his own on “Damaged,” about the struggle to keep your pain and scars hidden from the world. “God Badge” is the album’s highlight track as Foreman and Watkins give listeners food for thought with respect to religion: “Put your god badge down/And love someone/Let it free your soul/There is no us and them/There’s only folks that you do or don’t understand.”

Trixie Whitley

Fourth Corner/Strong Blood Records

Brooklyn-based alternative soul singer Trixie Whitley plays by her own rules. The husky vocal quality and genre-busting sensibilities on Whitley’s debut album, Fourth Corner, serve notice that she is a talent on the rise. The melancholic, down-tempo “Morelia” features hypnotic piano and simple acoustic guitar with vocals that head for the heavens. “Hotel No Name” is one of several examples on the album where Whitley breaks into spoken-word and catches you off guard. “Irene,” and the title track, combine subtle percussion with eerie, ethereal background vocals, and slightly off-kilter instrumentation, while “Need Your Love” brings in crunchy, bluesy electric guitar riffs, and piano-led orchestration, lending the song an almost operatic feel. Elements of soul, R&B and alternative music create variety throughout the record, and while Whitley makes a few vocal decisions that don’t work, more often than not she leaves you enthralled.

Sandra McCracken

Desire Like Dynamite/Self-released

Whether releasing her own albums, or writing for the likes of Caedmon’s Call, or her husband Derek Webb, Sandra McCracken has been entrancing listeners with thoughtful, well-crafted music for over a decade now. Her latest, Desire Like Dynamite, is arguably her best album yet. Entrenched firmly in the realm of music with a message, the album is a poignant lyrical experience touching on parenthood, faith, and the impact of our choices. “Gridlock” reveals that change can’t happen while our hearts are stuck in a bad place, while “Dynamite” plays up the power of consequences and how we owe it to ourselves to be mindful. McCracken shines with her quiet and staid vocals one moment before she bursts into a powerful proclamation the next, as in “Hourglass”: “I’m hurtling towards the future/With a bullet in my chest.”

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News

Who will try Jim Baldi on embezzlement charges?

Last week, two and a half years after fleeing indictments, former Charlottesville restaurateur and accused embezzler Jim Baldi made his first appearance in local court, but the nature of the charges against him make it difficult to predict what the path forward looks like for the area’s most notorious bookkeeper.

Altogether, Baldi, who managed the finances for many local businesses before being accused of fraud in the summer of 2010, faces four separate embezzlement charges. He stands accused of siphoning money away from Downtown’s Cafe Cubano as well as three Albemarle businesses: Proffitt Management, WK Foods, and rug cleaning company Duraclean.

The crime novel-worthy details of Baldi’s life on the lam—a new name, a new home in the posh Dolores Heights neighborhood of San Francisco, a job as the manager of an Italian restaurant—generated a lot of local buzz in the wake of his January 4 arrest in California. But now that his extradition has landed him in the Charlottesville-Albemarle Regional Jail, those who lost the most are mostly mum. His former associates and alleged victims were unreachable or wouldn’t comment on his unceremonious return, including his one-time Bel Rio co-owners Gareth Weldon and David Simpson.

It could be they want to put the past behind them—the same reason, perhaps, that the alleged victims in the Charlottesville and Albemarle cases against Baldi number only four. Local defense attorney Andrew Sneathern, who has no connection to the case, said that while we can’t know the details at this point, prosecutors might not have been able to bring all the charges they wanted to.

“There may be witnesses [or] victims that do not wish to go forward in what may be an exhausting and time-consuming process,” Sneathern said in an e-mail. There are other explanations, he said. Often, the Commonwealth’s primary goal in money crimes is restitution for victims, and they may not need a conviction for every count to win it.

Complicating things is the fact that Baldi’s alleged crimes straddle the city-county line —hence the two sets of charges. That’s not uncommon here with pattern-of-behavior crimes, said Dean L’Hospital, Sneathern’s law partner, and it may be bad news for Baldi, because by the time he ends up before judge number two, he could have a prior conviction. “When you have related charges that are essentially unbundled because of jurisdictional issues, you have people potentially looking at much harsher sentences,” said L’Hospital.

But facing charges in multiple jurisdictions could potentially work to Baldi’s
benefit, he said. If the defendant is cooperative, it’s not unusual to see two sets of prosecutors agree to conduct a joint sentencing—and a reduction in the recommended sentence. That could be significant in a case like this, considering embezzlement is a Class 4 felony, punishable by up to 10 years in prison and a fine of up to $100,000.

But for now, Baldi’s time —when he’s not bedding down at the jail—will be spent seesawing back and forth between two courts where he has a lot on the line.

“There’s no guarantee that cases will be resolved jointly, however, and the prosecution is certainly not under any obligation to entertain any suggestion of a joint resolution,” said L’Hospital.

Categories
Living

Pretty tights, a petting zoo, and a new use for engagement pics: Wedding ideas we love

They say good artists borrow, and great artists steal. Go ahead and be a great artist on your wedding day—draw inspiration from (or just flat out copy) these ideas. (Don’t worry, we cleared it with the brides.)

A pair of pretty tights: What a special touch to the day’s elevated attire. This bride bought her Pamela Mann hosiery at mytights.com.

Photo: Lucy Taylor

A sentimental backdrop: These spray-painted burlap signs up the romance at the altar. Choose lyrics that you find meaningful (this couple used The Avett Brothers’ “The Ballad of Love and Hate”) to really personalize it.

Photo: Adam Barnes

An alternate use for engagement photos: Sure, your e-session is mostly about you and your fiancé, but you might as well get a few glamour shots (for Facebook or a head shot, for instance) out of it. (If we had that gorgeous red hair, we’d want to show it off too!)

Photo: Meg Runion

A retro ’do: Some things just never go out of style. This twisted updo is elegant and oh-so-romantic.

Photo: Cramer Photo

A wedding day distraction: Weddings can be pretty boring for kids. Take a cue from this couple and provide a petting zoo to keep the little ones busy.

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News

Transition Charlottesville helps gardeners get a jump on spring with seedling workshop

“I think the best part of gardening is knowing what it really means to eat broccoli,” said Melissa Wender, a Bronx native turned rural green thumb.

Wender picked up a gardening book 15 years ago on a whim, and has since learned by trial and error, keeping detailed journals on the weather and her plants’ patterns—“like my own personal Farmer’s Almanac,” she said.

Last Monday, Wender and Peter Richardson, both members of local grassroots activist group Transition Charlottesville, teamed up to lead a workshop on seed starting. The organization, founded in April 2011, raises awareness of natural resources and climate change through film screenings, discussion panels, community work projects, and free monthly “skill shares” like gardening, canning, and sewing.

About 25 people, from UVA students to retirees, gathered at The Bridge Progressive Arts Initiative last week to try their hands at growing fruits and vegetables from seeds. The presentation ended with a free-for-all, where everybody crowded around a table to get their hands dirty and plant some seeds. Everyone walked out with at least one cup of dirt and a hope for some spinach seedlings in the near future.

As urban gardens gear up for the spring, here are some tips for starting your own seeds:

  • Seeds should start in small, individual containers, to keep the seedlings’ fragile roots from growing into one another and tangling. Wender recommended picking up divided trays from local garden stores, some of which give used ones away for free. 
  • True to Transition’s spirit of reusing and recycling, Richardson showed the group how to make small seed containers out of toilet paper tubes. Cut them in half, and fold long-ways twice to make square. Make cuts halfway up each crease, and fold the flaps into one another like a cardboard box. Once the seedling sprouts, Richardson said not to worry about transferring the plant—simply place the entire thing in a larger pot, and the cardboard container will break down as the plant grows. Attendees also suggested using empty eggshells and cups made of newspaper.
  • For seed starting, try to use organic peat moss or soil with perlite—the white, Styrofoam-like material that locks in moisture. Using clean soil is essential, Wender said. She suggested sterilizing compost in the oven, if you can stand the smell. Another option is to gather some dirt from the garden before temperatures drop below freezing, and save it for seed starting in the winter and spring.
  • Most seeds need consistently warm, moist soil to germinate, so it’s important to keep containers away from extreme temperatures and traffic. Lighting options vary, Richardson said, but regular fluorescent bulbs in shop lights hung on a shelf above the seedlings are an easy, cheap option.
  • Once the seedlings outgrow their first containers—a time span that varies from plant to plant—it’s important to transplant them into larger pots with holes in the bottom. Lift a seedling by the rootball, gently holding the leaves to steady it from above, and Richardson emphasized never holding it by the stem.
Categories
Living

A star is born: Glass Haus’ Ian Boden delights diners and critics alike from his new stage

Glass Haus chef Ian Boden has been keeping things fresh by inviting notable guest chefs to present their own inventive menus. Photo: Andrea Hubbell

Assuming his new post as executive chef of Glass Haus Kitchen this past fall, Ian Boden had big shoes to fill—but they were all his own. The Northern Virginia native who put his New England Culinary Institute degree to use for 10 years in the kitchens of top New York restaurants, opened Staunton Grocery in early 2007 as an ode to our embarrassment of locally produced riches. For the nearly five years that it stood, Staunton Grocery collected accolades as big as its fan base. When the doors closed in December 2011, mourners across Virginia kept their ears pricked to Boden’s every tweet for clues as to where he might land next.

To Charlottesville’s luck, his first perch was here, at Blue Light Grill last spring. It was an exciting, albeit totally unexpected, move, since the Downtown Mall establishment’s known more as a watering hole than a fine dining destination. That was the whole idea, of course, and while it certainly raised its reputation, the fit wasn’t right. The crowd still seemed more focused on bottle-to-glass drinking than farm-to-table eating.

No matter for a big fish in our relatively small pond though. In no time, Boden was snapped up by J.F. Legault and Francois Bladt, who were in the process of reconceiving the X-Lounge, which was nearing the end of its own more than five-year run. With the chef in place, the new restaurant had its concept (“inspired American cuisine”), and the décor (sleek, industrial metal warmed by Brazilian hardwood, dramatic light fixtures, and a 16′ photograph of lazing cows by Paul Goossens) and dream team (Mike Yager from Palladio and Todd Grieger from Maya among them) came together in just under three weeks. “X-Lounge was a sprint. This is a marathon, but we needed someone like Ian,” said Legault.

And since Glass Haus Kitchen’s November 1 opening, Boden’s shoes have grown even bigger. The evening I was there for a guest chef dinner with Aaron Silverman (a McCrady’s and Momofuku alum who is opening Rose’s Luxury in D.C.), the team was celebrating a rave, 2.5-star review in the Washington Post titled “A meal that makes up for the long drive.” I suddenly felt a sense of propriety over this new addition to our notable culinary scene. What if pilgrimaging D.C. diners make it impossible to get a table? Fortunately, between the horseshoe-shaped bar, the booths and tables downstairs, and the mezzanine tables upstairs, there are 70 seats to fill. And once warm weather’s upon us, a freshly preened patio will accommodate even more.

Dinner service begins at 5:30pm Tuesday through Saturday and a bar menu’s served until midnight on Friday and Saturday evenings (though that’s not to say that the $3 to $14 offerings shouldn’t usher in happy hour too). Ebullient might be a better description for any portion of time spent consuming Boden’s inventive takes on salty snacks (like fried mortadella sliders or truffle tater tots with truffle aioli) alongside one of bar manager Sally Myer’s handcrafted cocktails. I’m still dreaming of the pretty little vodka, St-Germaine, hibiscus, grapefruit, and sea salt foam number that warmed me after a commute across the tracks in a wintry deluge.

The “spaghetti and meatballs” is a particularly impressive twist on a classic: rabbit and pork fat meatballs overtop parsnip pasta. Photo: Andrea Hubbell

As expected, the dinner menu, with appetizers from $9 to $18, main courses from $22 to $32, and desserts for $9, reflects Boden’s commitment to sourcing locally, yet the preparations sometimes eclipse the ingredients themselves for no other reason than their impressiveness. When presented with “spaghetti & meatballs”—meatballs made from rabbit and pork fat, pasta made with parsnips, and a sauce made with rabbit stock and cream and studded with yellow foot mushrooms—I forgot to even wonder (or care) what came from our area farms. Boden believes it should just be a given that chefs use local products and that any chef who’s not is being irresponsible.

The five-course tasting menu with wine pairings has been immensely popular and Boden’s keeping inspired by inviting chefs he respects to cook with him for an evening or two. The top chefs get to geek out collaborating on the menu and guests get to swoon over the results of two culinary masterminds who, without a doubt, are playing a silent game of culinary one-upmanship.

Two more guest chef dinners are already on the calendar—one on February 27 with Jason Alley from Richmond’s Pasture and one on April 24 and 25 with Ed Hardy from Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster in Harlem. They’re a surefire cure for even the most jaded palate. Let’s just hope that Hardy doesn’t go back to New York with a tip for the Times critic.